DIY 11113 starter repair

Structurally, the starter of the Oka car does not have serious differences from its more powerful counterparts, which means that in case of problems with this unit, there is every chance to repair the starter of the eye with your own hands. It should be said that the failures of the VAZ 1111/11113 starter have been studied quite well and most of their malfunctions are associated with the failure of the retractor relay, the brush holder (and the brushes themselves, as such), as well as the bushings. As a rule, the repair of these elements is much cheaper than buying a new unit, and it can be done in a personal garage.

The most common reason for the failure of the solenoid relay is burning of the terminals and contact bolts of the power circuit. In this case, after disassembling the relay, the contacts are cleaned with fine emery cloth or replaced with new ones.

Sometimes the seizure of the relay armature occurs due to the appearance of severe corrosion, after removing the rust and applying grease, the problem is eliminated.

On this starter model, the brushes wear out very quickly. When replacing them, you have to additionally grind the collector, which, in turn, is quite difficult to replace separately, since the leads of the armature winding are recessed into the grooves of the collector and pressed in.

At home, it is almost impossible to cope with anchor malfunctions. When detecting turn-to-turn closures, winding burnout, sintering of lamellas and mechanical damage to the collector, rewinding and balancing of the armature is required - which not every motorist can do. In this case, the game is not worth the candle and it is much easier and cheaper to purchase a new part. It is also recommended to change the armature when carrying out preventive maintenance of the starter after long-term operation. Together with the armature, the brushes should be replaced, otherwise, the old brushes with their worn edges can damage the surface of the collector.

If damage to the magnets is detected, then depending on the model, the repair of the eye starter is carried out in different ways. If the magnets were initially glued, then they are changed along with the glass body. If they can be removed, then they are changed separately. When replacing magnets, one should not forget that they, quite often, are supplied in a "raw" state and must be magnetized on special equipment before installation.

When the bushings and bearings are triggered, they are replaced in pairs. In this situation, you should not save money - replacing parts separately can lead to the curvature of the armature with the subsequent failure of the entire unit.

You will need: a key "8", a screwdriver, an electric soldering iron.

1. Remove the nut of the lower contact bolt of the starter traction relay.

2.. remove the washer and disconnect the stator winding lead-out lug.

3. Remove the two nuts securing the starter traction relay (one shown).

4. Remove the traction relay from the drive end cover.

5. Remove the traction relay armature from the drive end cover, disengaging it from the drive arm.

6. Remove the drive arm stop by prying it off with a screwdriver.

7. Remove the two tie bolts and.

eight. . remove the shroud from the manifold side cover.

9. Remove the casing gasket.

10. Remove the brush springs from the brush holder.

11. Remove the lock washer from the starter armature shaft and.

13. Disconnect the starter housing and the manifold side cover, remove the insulated brushes from the brush holder and.

14. . remove the starter cover from the manifold side.

Use a screwdriver if you cannot separate the case and cover by hand.

15. Remove the spacer washer from the armature shaft.

16. Remove the cotter pin securing the axis of the starter drive lever and.

17.. remove the axle from the drive end cover.

eighteen.Remove the drive end cover.

19. Remove the starter drive lever.

20. Remove the starter armature from the housing.

21. Slide the stop ring off the retaining ring.

22. Remove the retaining ring and then the stop ring from the armature shaft.

23. Remove the starter drive clutch assembly from the armature shaft.

24. Remove the spring from the traction relay.

25. Remove the insulating bracket to replace the brushes.

26. heat the junction of the insulated brushes with the stator lead with a soldering iron and, by loosening the bend of the stator lead with a screwdriver, remove the insulated brushes.

27. Remove the uninsulated brush bar end cap screws and remove the brushes from the manifold side cover.

28. Check the condition of the stator winding. To do this, turn on the test lamp (rated for a voltage of 220 V) into an alternating current with a voltage of 220 V and connect one wire to one of the terminals of the stator winding, the other - short to the case. If the lamp is on, the winding insulation is damaged. Replace winding or stator. Also check the other stator winding.

Be careful when testing with 220V. Do not touch live parts of the stator with your hands.

The stator windings can be checked with a megger. Connect one contact to the terminal and the other to the stator housing. The resistance of the windings must be at least 10 kOhm. If it is less, replace the stator.

29. Inspect the armature shaft bearing surfaces. If you find a yellow coating from the bearings on the armature shaft, remove it with a fine sandpaper. There should be no damage on the surface of the shaft splines (scoring, nicks, chipping of teeth and visible signs of wear).

30. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates. Inspect the winding at the ends of the armature: the diameter of the winding should be less than the iron package of the armature. If the diameter is larger, replace the anchor.

31. The starter casing gasket must not be damaged (breaks, cracks, etc.).

32. While holding the overrunning clutch, try to turn the starter gear in both directions: it should rotate freely only clockwise. If the gear turns in both directions, replace the drive. If the drive parts are badly worn or damaged, replace the drive. If you find nicks on the lead-in part of the teeth, grind them with a fine-grained small-diameter wheel.

33. Check the condition of the traction relay armature spring. Replace the broken spring.

34. Tightening bolts of the starter must not have severe damage to the threaded part and heads.

35. Check the condition of the starter cover on the drive end. Cracks are not allowed.

36. Inspect the surface of the traction relay armature. Deep risks and seizures are not allowed. The armature should move easily in the traction relay, without jamming.

37. The forks of the starter drive lever must not be bent.

38. Check the condition of the starter brushes by measuring their height. It must be at least 12 mm.

39. Check the closure of the traction relay contact bolts with a plate. To do this, connect an ohmmeter to the contact bolts and push the rod of the traction relay (from the flange side). If the ohmmeter shows "Ґ", replace the traction relay.

40. Check the condition of the inner surface of the traction relay. Risks, bullies, etc. not allowed.

41. Inspect the bushing pressed into the clutch housing. If the bushing is worn out or has scuffs, pits, etc., replace the bushing.

The bushing is located in a blind hole in the clutch housing and is therefore difficult to access. To remove the bushing, screw a suitable size tap into the bushing until it stops at the bottom of the hole, as if cutting a thread in the bushing. With further rotation of the tap, the sleeve will be pressed out of the hole.

Assemble the starter in the reverse order to disassembly, taking into account the following features.

Like any internal combustion engine of passenger cars, the power units of the Oka car of modifications 1111, 11113 are started using a starter - a power electric motor with remote control. The task of this unit is to untwist the crankshaft in order to create the necessary conditions for the ignition of the air-fuel mixture.

The designers did not borrow a starter from other VAZ models for the purpose, but made a new one - for Oka engines. The inability to unify starters for the owners of this small car often turns into problems, since the "native" starter is not a particularly reliable unit.

It is noteworthy that at Oka, power motors were produced by several manufacturers. The most common is the assembly with the factory index 39.3708 (from the Samara plant KZATE), which we will consider in the future. Also, the VAZ-1111 was equipped with Belarusian-made components (1111-3708010-5) and Slovenian ones - AZE-1517.

The main characteristics of model 39.3708 are as follows:

• Power - 0.9 kW;
• Consumption current - 230A;
• Weight - 5 kg;

This unit is mounted on the left side of the engine (in the direction of travel) above the gearbox, and above it is the thermostat housing. The fixation is carried out with only two fasteners - a bolt and a nut, with which the starter is attracted to the clutch housing. This arrangement is convenient in that you can dismantle the unit from the car without removing anything additionally.

The starter on "Oka" is a collector DC electric motor. Its main components are:

• Stator with field windings;
• Brush holder (brush unit) with 4 graphite brushes;
• Anchor;
• Bendix (drive gear with freewheel clutch);
• Solenoid relay with drive plug;
• Covers;

All elements are assembled into a single structure and fixed with tie bolts.

The stator is due to the passage of e-mail. energy through its windings, provides the emergence of an electromagnetic field. The second magnetic field is created by the armature winding. An electric current is supplied to it through the graphite brushes to the collector, to the plates of which the ends of the armature winding are soldered. The magnetic fields generated around the windings cause the armature to rotate.

On one side of the armature shaft, slots are made, on which a bendix is ​​set, consisting of a gear and an overrunning clutch. Bendix has the ability to move along the shaft, while due to the spline connection, rotation is transmitted to it.

The bendix gear is designed to engage with the crankshaft flywheel and transfer rotary motion to it. By default, the gear is not meshed with the flywheel and there is no interaction between the engine and the power electric motor.

The task of the overrunning clutch is to interrupt the transmission of rotation after starting the power unit. Even at minimum speeds, the crankshaft rotation speed is higher than the starter speed, therefore, after starting the engine, a reverse rotation transfer is performed - from the flywheel to the el. engine (until the gear is disengaged), which significantly reduces the life of the starter. To prevent this negative effect, the gear does not interact with the armature shaft directly, but through a roller clutch consisting of two clips and rollers placed between them.

The essence of the clutch is as follows: while the rotation speed of the starter armature is higher than the flywheel (the engine is not running), the rollers "jam" the clips between themselves, thereby transferring the rotation to the gear. As soon as the engine starts and the flywheel accelerates, one of the clips is displaced relative to the second and the rollers "wedge", thereby interrupting the transmission of rotation from the gear to the armature.

The movement of the bendix along the splines of the shaft is carried out by a retractor relay installed on the starter housing. Also, this node is "responsible" for supplying electricity to the windings of the electric motor.

The peculiarity of the starter is that first the gear is engaged, and only after that the electric motor turns on. And all this is provided by the solenoid relay.

Solenoid relay - located on the starter

The relay consists of a case with windings located inside, a contact disc and power contacts ("pyataks"), as well as an armature engaging with a plug interacting with the bendix.

The starter's power supply from the on-board network is as follows: a large cross-section wire is laid from the positive terminal of the battery to one of the contacts of the solenoid relay. From the second contact of the relay there is a bus to the brush holder and stator windings. This circuit is the main one for powering the electric motor, but there is a break in the relay in it, which excludes a constant supply of current to the windings.

From the same "positive" terminal there is another wiring going through an additional relay, ignition switch and leading to the solenoid relay. The purpose of this circuit is to power the relay coils.

To turn on the starter, the driver must set the key in the lock to position "2". Thus, it closes the power supply circuit of the solenoid relay, and the current flows to its windings. As a result, a magnetic field arises, which leads to the movement of the relay armature - it is "drawn" into the case.

Moving inside the body, the armature pulls the fork along with it, and it displaces the bendix along the slots of the armature shaft, engaging the gearwheel with the flywheel.

At the same time, the armature pushes the rod on which the contact disc is fixed. Having reached the stop, this disk is pressed against the “nickels” of the power contacts, as a result of which the power supply circuit is closed. engine, and it begins to rotate, while the gear will already be in mesh.

After starting the Oka motor, the clutch is triggered, preventing reverse rotation.

Returning the key to position "1", the driver opens the relay supply circuit, the return spring "pushes" the armature. Moving back, it stops acting on the rod of the contact disk, due to which the power supply circuit is opened. engine. At the same time, the armature pushes the fork, and it disengages the bendix.

Malfunctions of the Oka starter, as well as of the power electric motors of a car, are divided into two categories - mechanical and electrical. The first includes:

• Wear of the armature bearing bushings;
• Damage to the gear teeth;
• Jamming of the solenoid relay armature;
• Development of the splines of the armature shaft;

The most common mechanical failure is the wear of the bearing bushings, which subsequently becomes the cause of other breakdowns. Due to significant wear of the bushings, the position of the armature is violated, and, accordingly, the bendix. As a result, it is more difficult for the gear to engage, the rate of wear of the teeth increases, and their crumbling is possible.

Electrical faults include:

• Breakage of the stator windings, armature, retractor relay;
• Strong wear of the collector plates;
• Critical brush wear;
• Closing the windings;
• Burning up "pyataks" of power contacts;

Problems with the motor and relay power circuits can also be added to this category of breakdowns.

Oka starter malfunctions manifest themselves in different ways:

• The starter does not turn on, there are no additional sounds;
• The activation of the solenoid relay is audible, but the electric motor does not turn;
• The starter rotates but picks up speed;
• Third-party sounds are heard when switching on (crunching, grinding);

With such signs, the unit should be repaired.

The first step in the repair is to determine where the breakdown occurred - in the power circuit or the node itself. This is done simply:

• We immobilize the car with a handbrake, install it at the checkpoint "neutral";
• We open the hood. From the side of the thermostat, we find the starter;
• On the retractor relay we find the power contacts (two studs with nuts, to which the wiring is suitable);
• We take a screwdriver with an insulated handle and close the contacts between ourselves;

If, after a short circuit, the electric motor starts to turn, the fault should be looked for in the solenoid relay and its power supply circuit. In the case when, after the described procedure, the electric motor does not start or will work, but without developing speed, or third-party sounds occur when triggered, the unit will have to be dismantled from the car.

Removing the starter on the "Oka" - the operation is not difficult due to the relatively convenient location. The work algorithm is as follows:

• We remove one of the terminals from the battery;
• We unscrew the nuts of the power contacts in order to remove the wiring from the studs (2 keys should be used - one to hold the inner nut, and the second to unscrew the outer);
• We remove the tips of the wires;
• We unscrew the starter fasteners (it is fixed with the 1st bolt and the 1st nut on the hairpin);
• We remove the starter;

Further, disassembly and diagnostics of the unit are already being performed.

First, the body of the solenoid relay is dismantled, for which you need to unscrew two nuts. When dismantling the case, the relay armature will remain in place, since it is hooked onto the plug with a lug. If necessary, we also remove the anchor.

To disassemble the electric motor itself, we unscrew the two tie bolts, after which it will be possible to remove the back cover and pull the brush holder off the collector. After that, you can remove the stator housing with the winding.

For further disassembly, remove the retaining ring from the front of the anchor shaft and take out the anchor. It remains only to pull out the fork axle and remove it together with the bendix.

Mechanical faults can be identified visually by carefully examining each component. If traces of strong wear or damage are found, the part should be replaced.

As for electrical faults, they can only be detected by ringing the windings. It is best to consult an experienced electrician for this check.

After repair, the starter is assembled in the reverse order. Before installing on a car, it is advisable to check the node. To do this, we connect it directly to the battery.

One of the significant disadvantages of the starter on the Oka is the absence of the so-called "dome". In those nodes where it is, the "dome" acts as the second anchor point for the anchor. In "Oka", due to the absence of this component, the second support for the shaft is a depression in the engine block. The support sleeve is also installed in it. Therefore, in case of wear of the bushings - and this is the most common malfunction, their replacement becomes a serious problem for the owner.

OKA starter catalog number: 391.3708 - if you decide to put the same one.

One of the options for solving problems with bushings is to install a starter on the Oka from another car. As a replacement, you can use the VAZ-2110 starter, which has a "dome".

But in order to install a "ten" starter, you will have to perform certain modifications of the unit itself, as well as the clutch housing, for which you will have to remove not only the starter from the car, but also disassemble the transmission - remove the gearbox, clutch and dismantle the clutch housing.

To install the VAZ-2110 starter on the "Oka" you need to use a shlif. machines to grind the surface of the "dome", thereby reducing its diameter. You will also have to cut the mounting lugs.

In the crankcase, on the inside, you need to cut out a partition and grind the surfaces adjacent to the bore.

All these improvements are aimed at ensuring that the new unit fully "sits" in the crankcase hole.

Some craftsmen, instead of a "native" starter, even installed a knot from the VAZ of the classic family, the same VAZ-2106, on the Oka. But in this case, the improvements were essential, since the starter from the "classics" is more dimensional. The installation issue in this case was solved by using an adapter plate.

The same motorists who have no desire to alter something, in order to eliminate the anchor backlash, will have to change the bushings.

The dimensions of which: thickness 2 mm, int. diameter - 10mm, outside - 14mm.

There will be no problems with the internal, since it is installed in the back cover and it is not difficult to get it after removing and disassembling the starter. But the bushing, which is installed in a recess in the block, is problematic to get.

There are several options for extracting it:

• Screw a tap of the appropriate size into it;
• Drill out;
• Squeeze out with grease;

If everything is clear with the first two methods, then the third should be considered in more detail. The method is based on the property of a liquid not to compress.

The extrusion technology is quite interesting - we select a rod that exactly matches the diameter of the bushing hole. Next, fill the sleeve completely with grease (for example, "Solidol"). Then we insert the rod into the hole and hammer it inside. Due to compression, "Solidol" will penetrate under the sleeve and begin to squeeze it out.

After removing the worn out bushing, we put it in place with a new one, after which it remains only to put the starter in place.

I got a used Oka, a novice car enthusiast, I want to learn how to repair it myself.

The problem is the following: the bushing on the starter constantly pours out, I change it every two days (they say that it is pressed on other cars, on the Oka it enters easily). They told me to buy a new starter, but I want to understand the problem.

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maks_64, 13 May 2013, 11:22, # 1

I got a used Oka, a novice car enthusiast, I want to learn how to repair it myself.

The problem is the following: the bushing on the starter constantly pours out, I change it every two days (they say that it is pressed on other cars, on the Oka it enters easily). They told me to buy a new starter, but I want to understand the problem.

I wonder how many times you changed them

Think about the hint knowingly prompted about a new starter

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... The bushing on the starter or the bushing in the clutch housing "crumbles".

... what noises, knocks, cods when starting the engine.

sleeve "with a skirt", into which the starter is inserted, no knocks, no crackles, no noises. When you start it, the impression is that the battery is dead.

You can buy a new one, but suddenly it’s not the problem, and you don’t want to throw out 2.5 rubles.

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... the rotor clings to the stator due to the bushing.

... however, one must also look at the clutch housing. maybe the hole for the bushing is "gouged". then you need to either change the clutch housing or come up with a "screwdriver" for the bushing. Problem.

... if the body is intact, then you need to look at the starter itself. the battery with the generator is in good working order.

how can you check if the hole for the bushing is “gouged”, maybe some signs or visual? and is it still possible to carve a bushing out of bronze or copper, or will it still be even worse

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maks_64, May 15, 2013, 14:12, # 6

how can you check if the hole for the bushing is “gouged”, maybe some signs or visual? and is it still possible to carve a bushing out of bronze or copper, or will it still be even worse

... rapid wear of the shaft at the armature. the bushing should be sintered, probably.

maks_64, May 15, 2013, 14:12, # 6

how can you check if the hole for the bushing is “gouged”, maybe some signs or visual? and is it still possible to carve a bushing out of bronze or copper, or will it still be even worse

There was such a problem, the way out is this: to measure the seat for the bushing in the clutch housing by removing the starter, if there are no remnants of the bronze bushing there, you can select the calibers (I used the drill shanks) - there is a diameter of about 10-12 mm., And, measuring the length ( depth), carve a bronze. or a copper sleeve (I don’t remember exactly this with a collar diameter, about 13-15mm, collar length 2mm.), put it on the starter shank and put the starter in place. After such a replacement, the problem disappeared, but it will not help, just change the starter (they are not a deficit)

maks_64, 15 May 2013, 10:21, # 4

sleeve "with a skirt", into which the starter is inserted, no knocks, no crackles, no noises. When you start it, the impression is that the battery is dead.

You can buy a new one, but suddenly it’s not the problem, and you don’t want to throw out 2.5 rubles.

Try to connect the removed starter to the battery, if it turns easily and with normal noise, OK, rattles and clings, change!

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Try to connect the removed starter to the battery, if it turns easily and with normal noise, OK, rattles and clings, change!

... Gleb, you are saying something wrong. with the starter removed You cannot try - one end of the rotor will be unsecured. in any case, the rotor will touch the stator.

KirGen, May 16, 2013, 10:47 am, # 10

... Gleb, you are saying something wrong. with the starter removed You cannot try - one end of the rotor will be unsecured. in any case, the rotor will touch the stator.

Sorry, it is quite possible, then for the diagnosis I propose to turn on the starter installed in place (after replacing the sleeve) directly, bypassing the retractor relay, for 10-20 seconds and assess the situation - noise, wedging, tight rotation, current consumption, etc.

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Glebz, 16 May 2013, 12:27, # 11

Sorry, it is quite possible, then for the diagnosis I propose to turn on the starter installed in place (after replacing the sleeve) directly, bypassing the retractor relay, for 10-20 seconds and assess the situation - noise, wedging, tight rotation, current consumption, etc.

... what are you. you understand everything with half a word.

KirGen, May 16, 2013, 17:37, # 12

... what are you. you understand everything with half a word.

And then. We stand on that, sir.

Thank you very much, we will experiment). the factory bushing is copper-graphite, if carved out of bronze or copper, you can completely ruin the inlet (again, according to rumors), is that true?

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KirGen, 15 May 2013, 17:53, # 7

... rapid wear of the shaft at the armature. the bushing should be sintered, probably.

maks_64, 17 May 2013, 08:41, # 14

Thank you very much, we will experiment). the factory bushing is copper-graphite, if carved out of bronze or copper, you can completely ruin the inlet (again, according to rumors), is that true?

... rapid wear of the shaft journal at the starter armature. the sleeve must be copper-graphite.

KirGen, May 17, 2013, 09:02, # 15

... rapid wear of the shaft journal at the starter armature. the sleeve must be copper-graphite.

I have tested it by experience, I put a brass (!) Bushing and forgot about the problem, with the norms. the state of the power supply and ignition systems, the starter works for 3-5 seconds, which, with the normal state of the starter, for the entire service life of the car.

maks_64, 17 May 2013, 08:41, # 14

Thank you very much, we will experiment). the factory bushing is copper-graphite, if carved out of bronze or copper, you can completely ruin the inlet (again, according to rumors), is that true?

The inlet hole will deteriorate only when the shaft rotates the sleeve in the seat, which is unacceptable, ensure a tight fit (notch, tight pressing, etc., in the end, epoxy.)

I checked the starter, everything is all right with him (it's good that I didn't buy it). and if you grind the sleeve a little more so that you had to press in, otherwise the factory ones very easily enter

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Or put something like a foil under the factory one.

pre-experimented))) the bushing in the seat just turns and falls out))). now have to go to the WHA. thanks to all)))

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KirGen, May 15, 2013, 10:46 am, # 5

... the rotor clings to the stator due to the bushing. ... however, one must also look at the clutch housing. maybe the hole for the bushing is "gouged". then you need to either change the clutch housing or come up with a "screwdriver" for the bushing. Problem. ... if the body is intact, then you need to look at the starter itself. the battery with the generator is in good working order.

maks_64, 24 May 2013, 09:54, # 21

pre-experimented))) the bushing in the seat just turns and falls out))). now have to go to the WHA. thanks to all)))

... namely - “screw” under the sleeve.

... “Screw-in” for a tight (press) fit.

maks_64, 24 May 2013, 09:54, # 21

pre-experimented))) the bushing in the seat just turns and falls out))). now have to go to the WHA. thanks to all)))

Weird. My sleeve with a gap (!) Went into the socket and drove another 30,000 km. Does the starter skew during installation due to an uneven seat or deformation of the clutch cover (“ears” of the starter).

maks_64, 24 May 2013, 09:54, # 21

pre-experimented))) the bushing in the seat just turns and falls out))). now have to go to the WHA. thanks to all)))

Weird. My sleeve with a gap (!) Went into the socket and drove another 30,000 km. Does the starter skew during installation due to an uneven seat or deformation of the clutch cover (“ears” of the starter).

maks_64, 24 May 2013, 09:54, # 21

pre-experimented))) the bushing in the seat just turns and falls out))). now have to go to the WHA. thanks to all)))

Weird. My sleeve with a gap (!) Went into the socket and drove another 30,000 km. Does the starter skew during installation due to an uneven seat or deformation of the clutch cover (“ears” of the starter).

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In every car, the starter device is one of the main components of the ignition system. Thanks to this mechanism, a voltage is applied, which is subsequently used to ignite the air-fuel mixture. And Oka's cars are no exception. For more information on what elements the Oka starter consists of, what is its principle of operation, and also what malfunctions are typical for it, read below.

First, let's take a look at the main functional features of starter devices. Let's start with the design and principle of operation.

The starter unit is a device used to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy, which is necessary to start a motor. In Oka cars, this mechanism is located under the thermostat of the cooling system. It is fixed with a screw and nut on the clutch housing.

The body of the mechanism contains the poles of the excitation winding, which are fixed with special screws. Three of these windings are in series and one is shunt. The whole structure is secured by two housing covers, fixed with screws. On the back cover there is a special brush mechanism with four brushes.

An anchor is located in the body itself - this is a shaft with an installed core with a winding, its ends are brought out to the plates of the collector device. The latter is a face-type part. Slots are made on the front part of the anchor element, along which the drive of the mechanism is moved, equipped, in turn, with internal slots. The drive itself is directly fixed to the halyard using a special bushing installed on top of the retaining ring, which, in turn, is located on the shaft groove.

A traction relay is installed on the upper part of the case, in particular on the lid. This element structurally consists of a housing with winding elements, a core, as well as a cover and a return spring.On the cover of the relay itself there are screws that also serve as the power contacts of the element. There is also a contact plate for closing the power contacts.

The relay itself is equipped with two windings - a retractor and a holding one, and an additional contact is brought into its cover, which is used to power them. Voltage is transmitted to it from the ignition switch when the driver tries to start the engine.

As for the drive, or as it is commonly called - the bendix, this element is a freewheel clutch, and at one end there is a drive gear. The device of the starter mechanism by its design provides for the presence of a clutch, which is necessary to supply torque in one direction from the unit to the power unit. When the unit is started, the mechanism will be disconnected from the motor. The purpose of the relay is to feed the gears of the drive element into the connection with the flywheel.

Briefly about the principle of operation:

1. The driver turns the key to the Start position.
2. The mechanism relay supplies power to the winding elements, and then to the traction relay windings.
3. The result is the formation of an electromagnetic field, which contributes to the retraction of the core. When this element is retracted, the drive lever is pulled behind it, the purpose of which, as mentioned above, is to engage the gear of the device with the flywheel.
4. When the core is fully retracted, as a result of the movement of the plate, the contacts are closed, which leads to the supply of voltage to the windings of the electric motor. At this moment, the winding is also de-energized.
5. When the power unit is started, an overrunning clutch enters the work, which breaks the supply of torque from the power unit to the anchor element. Thus, it prevents damage to the latter. When the motor is started, the key will exit the Start mode, which will open the contacts on the relay. The heart element returns to its original position.

Many car owners are interested in the question - from what can a starter be suitable for Oka? Since the standard devices are not particularly reliable and our compatriots are often faced with the need to carry out repairs, we have to look for analogues for installation. The best option is a mechanism from Katek for a VAZ 2110 car, it is he who has identical fasteners (the author of the video is the Expert R channel).

Why is the mechanism spinning, but it does not work at the same time?

Consider the main malfunctions in the operation of the device, as well as ways to eliminate them:

1. There were problems in the contacts, as well as in the connections, the electrical control circuit of the device. It is necessary to diagnose and clean the circuits, if necessary, clean the contacts.
2. Failure of the traction relay. In this case, the part must be replaced.
3. If the node turns very slowly, then perhaps the reason lies in the weak tightening of the nuts that fix the wire tips to the relay terminals. This problem can be solved by tightening the nuts.
4. It happens that when you try to start the power unit, the traction relay is triggered, but then immediately turns off, which is accompanied by a knock. If the ignition switch is working properly, then you need to check the traction relay, if necessary, replace it. Also, the reason may lie in the increased resistance of the power supply circuit of the mechanism, the reason will be solved by cleaning and more reliable fixing of the wiring. If there are damaged areas in the chain, they must be replaced.
5. Another reason may be damage to the gear teeth, both in the drive and in the flywheel. If the damage is significant, the parts must be replaced.

If the device fails, it must be repaired, which consists in replacing the failed structural components, or in a complete replacement of the unit.

A detailed repair guide is given in the video below (by Sergey Neverov).