DIY starter repair pramo spark

In detail: do-it-yourself starter repair pramo spark from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Noticing the first signs of a malfunction, do not debug starter repairs on the back burner. Tightening with checking and restoring will lead to the fact that at one point the engine simply will not start. We will show in the video and tell you how to check the retractor relay, replace the brushes, starter bushings, in order to fix the breakdowns with our own hands and correctly assemble the car starter.

There are only 2 ways to check starter malfunctions: according to characteristic symptoms and according to the results of troubleshooting after disassembly. The main causes of breakdowns and their symptoms.

Without removing the starter from the car, you can reliably check only a poor contact and the fact of a malfunction of the control circuit of the retractor relay. If the starter does not respond when the key is turned to the Start position, use a screwdriver to bridge the power terminals of the solenoid relay directly. An operation of the starter will indicate a malfunction in the control circuit or the traction relay itself.

If you know how to use a multimeter, in the DC current measurement mode, check if the voltage comes to the control terminal after turning the ignition key to the Start position. If the voltage comes in, but the retractor does not work (there is no characteristic click), the traction relay needs to be repaired or replaced.

Before disassembling, we recommend that you study the device and the principle of operation of the car starter. Also, when repairing, it is important to understand the principle of operation and diagnostic methods of the retractor relay, starter bendix.

Abrasion of brushes that wear out due to tight pressure on the rotating armature. Wear can be assessed visually or with a caliper. It is enough to compare the thickness of the new brushes with the worn out elements.
Wear on collector plates. The brushes wear off much faster than the armature contact plates, but even after a few hundred thousand kilometers they can become unusable. The degree of wear is determined by the depth of the groove that results from friction with the brushes. If the brushes do not fit tightly at the moment of rotation of the armature, a spark discharge may appear, provoking burnout and further exfoliation of parts of the lamellas. Among other defects that arise as a result of beating and axial play of the armature shaft are ovality, displacement of the friction zone of the brushes.
Violation of the insulation of the collector contacts, leading to a breakdown to the mass of the armature body; turn-to-turn closure.
Worn bushings fixing the armature shaft. Critical depletion of bronze or copper-graphite bushings leads to the beating of the armature shaft, as a result of which the copper-graphite brushes fail much faster, and uneven wear of the collector is observed. Also, the wear of the bushings can cause displacement of the armature plates, which leads to turn-to-turn closure.
Worn or incorrect selection of distance washers to prevent axial play of the armature shaft.
Burnout of the contact plate of the solenoid relay. Burnout of the winding, turn-to-turn closure of the solenoid coil.
Worn armature shaft gear.
Removing magnets from the starter housing.
Fracture of the terminal of the positive wire going from the power terminal of the retractor to the brush. Sometimes the terminals, due to their location in a place with an aggressive environment, corrode strongly.

Video (click to play).

Operations, which in most cases are limited to self-repairing a starter:

replacement of the brush assembly. We have already considered how to replace the starter brushes with our own hands, so we will not dwell on this;
cleaning the working area of the collector with fine-grained emery paper;
lubrication of the planetary gearbox, the armature shaft at the point of movement of the plug of the solenoid relay;
complete cleaning of all parts from wear products of graphite brushes and collectors, dirt.

Many manufacturers do not provide for the repair and maintenance of the solenoid relay, so flare it to disassemble it. This can be done only for the purpose of cleaning with sandpaper or a file of the contact areas of the terminal bolts, plate. If a turn-to-turn short circuit or a breakdown on the case is detected, we recommend that you prefer to replace it with your own hands. We also find the idea of repairing the collector lamellas and rewinding the starter armature very dubious. For widespread starter models, such a repair is simply unprofitable, since it is often easier to find a serviceable used part for disassembly or to buy a new launcher altogether.

Before removing the terminals for repair or replacement of the starter, be sure to remove the terminal from the negative battery terminal.
When checking the starter removed from the vehicle, fix it securely in a vice.
Even to rotate the armature without engaging the flywheel crown, a considerable current is needed, therefore, when checking after repair, do not use thin wires and ensure reliable contact on the power terminals.
You can find the tolerance limits for axial, radial play, and the minimum collector diameter in the technical documentation. Even before starting the repair, we recommend that you find out the model of the starter, which should be indicated in the identification marking on the body.
When assembling, follow the sequence of installing the spacer washers to limit the axial play. In order to assemble the starter correctly after repairs with your own hands, mark and take photos during the disassembly process.
Only the planetary gear unit needs to be lubricated. For these purposes, CV joint grease is well suited. Never lubricate the working surface of the copper-graphite bushings. The grease will collect dust, thus transforming into an abrasive paste.

The armature shaft play should be checked before disassembly. To do this, just rotate the shaft itself radially and axially with your fingers. With a significant backlash, it is necessary not only to replace the bushings, but also to measure the output on the shaft itself, since in case of critical wear, limiting the repair only by replacing the bushing will not bring much result. You can measure the axial play with a vernier caliper. A dial indicator with a tripod is used to accurately check the radial play.The video shows a simple way to check turn-to-turn ignition. The essence of the diagnosis is to connect one of the contacts of the light bulb to the armature shaft. The second contact should be drawn along the collector lamellas. If there is no breakdown to the case, the lamp will not light up.

Symptoms, one of which is worn out brushes:

the starter does not respond when the key is turned to the On position. When skewing, hovering or wear, there is no tight fit of the brushes to the armature plates, so the transmitted voltage is not enough to rotate the armature. To check, it is enough to directly close the output of the solenoid relay, on which there is a constant + from the battery, and the contact that goes directly to the starter case.If the launcher reacted and began to rotate vigorously, it means that the problem of the lack of response to turning the key is not in the brushes;
the starter motor rotates the flywheel ring of the engine, but does so slowly.

For accurate diagnostics, at the time of testing, the battery must be fully charged, and there must be no parasitic resistance on the contacts of the starting device circuit (oxides on the battery terminals, rust, oxides at the point where power is supplied to the starter, loose terminals, etc.).

In many respects, the subtleties of the starter dismantling process will be due to the peculiarities of the attachment location on the engine. You can find out where the starter is located and how to remove it in the manual for the repair and operation of your car.

Regardless of the location and model of the car, the dismantling of the starter begins with the removal of the negative terminal of the battery. So you will be guaranteed to save yourself from a short circuit when unscrewing the terminals and removing the starter protection.

Since the design of gear starters with permanent magnets on different cars is very similar, the process of disassembling the VAZ starter described below and shown in the video can be called universal.

Disconnect the terminal from the retractor to the starter housing. Even before disassembly, we recommend checking the amount of backlash of the drive shaft (in the figure - No. 15). If there is a large backlash, it is necessary to replace the bronze or copper-graphite bushings.
Remove the 2 tie rod bolts (# 20) that secure the rear starter cover and the two body parts. Disconnect the front part, which houses the reducer, bypass clutch and gear that meshes with the flywheel ring. The screws on the back cover do not need to be touched! They attach the brush assembly to the back cover.
Remove the planetary gear cover (no. 17). A spacer washer will be located behind the cover, excluding the axial play of the electric motor. Do not lose it in any way!
Remove the brush assembly and back cover from the housing where the permanent magnets will be attached.
Unscrew the screws securing the brush assembly to the rear cover.
Remove the armature rear retaining ring (no. 21). Also, the design can be provided with a sealing washer, which prevents the axial play of the shaft. In some designs, a paper gasket may be present, which must be reinstalled during assembly.
Remove the old brush assembly.

In the process of operation, the brushes wear out, as they are tightly pressed by the springs to the rotating collector, which also leads to the depletion and contamination of the conductive plates. The wear product of the starter brushes is graphite dust, which, together with other wear products and dust, settles on the insides of the launcher. Before reassembling, clean the magnets inside the starter with a rag. Clean the manifold plates as well as the anchor with fine-grained emery paper.We did not mention in vain about checking the axial play. Worn bushings result in radial play in the armature. Whichever brushes you install, the backlash will significantly accelerate their wear.If you are changing a complete brush assembly, simply align the plastic sleeve on the new assembly with the manifold and simply move the brushes onto the manifold. Never pull out the plastic sleeve! The brushes are in a spring-loaded state and it will be extremely difficult to place them correctly afterwards for installation on the manifold.

Before installation, check the starter, as well as the diagnostics of the solenoid relay, so that later you can be completely sure of the reliability of the launcher. Use wires of sufficient gauge to check, ensure good contact. Otherwise, the starter may simply not start, prompting you to think about a mistake made during assembly. The battery terminal should be installed only after connecting all terminals and installing the starter protection.

A car starter is a sophisticated electrical device that can be used to start the engine by simply turning the ignition key. Any of them is designed for hundreds of thousands of successful launches, and with proper care, it can last a long time, starting a car engine without problems in any conditions. The lack of timely diagnostics and replacement of worn parts can lead to such a situation that far from home or a car service, it will simply fail, delivering a huge number of problems to the car owner.It is worth noting that although an independent starter repair is possible, its implementation requires experience and a set of elementary tools, which are simply not at hand in a long trip. Accordingly, repairing the starter motor may not be possible, which is almost guaranteed to immobilize the vehicle. But it is far from always impossible to start the engine due to a malfunction of the starter, and before undertaking its "repair", you should pay attention to other components - for example, a flywheel or a storage battery. In addition, it is impossible to repair a starter with your own hands if you do not know how it works.At the heart of any starter is a powerful short-lived electric motor.Starter operation when trying to start the car is as follows:

after turning the ignition key, voltage begins to flow to the windings of the electric motor;

the bendix pushes out the gear, which is connected to the flywheel;

after a successful crankshaft spin, the bendix gear is thrown back to its original position, at the same time the electric circuit is opened and the starter stops working.

Despite the fact that there are several types of starters, their electrical part is the same, and the only differences are in the mechanisms for automatic decoupling from the flywheel. The friction damper may also differ. In addition to the classic design, the most widespread is a starter with a planetary gearbox - it is installed on diesel and powerful gasoline engines. Such designs have some advantages over classic options:

more compact dimensions;

increased efficiency;

easier start of the motor with a weak battery charge;

this starter requires less starting current, which increases the reliability of starting in cold weather.

Of course, a more complex design makes it much more difficult to repair the device yourself.A qualitative check of this unit is impossible without dismantling it. It is best to carry out work in a pit, which will provide the ability to move freely under the car. A standard set of wrenches will be required from the tools, and the presence of socket wrenches with a flexible extension will greatly simplify the task. Dismantling is carried out in several stages.

The terminals are removed from the storage battery.

Electrical cables are removed from the pins of the solenoid relay and terminals.

The motor protection is dismantled.

After unscrewing the nuts that secure the starter to the engine block, it can be removed.

Carrying out periodic control of the brushes, you can timely notice a critical decrease in their height, which should not be less than 12 mm. To get to the brushes, unscrew the screw securing the contact wires and squeeze the spring - after that they can be freely removed. After measuring the length, a decision is made to install new ones or return the old ones to their place. As practice shows, if the starter is already dismantled, and new brushes are in stock, it is better to replace them. It should be understood that replacing the starter brushes is an operation that must be performed regularly, especially with frequent engine starts.This is a more laborious process than removing the brushes. Initially, it is required to remove the washer from the axle and unscrew a pair of tie bolts. After disconnecting the casing of the device, you will have to remove the tubes of insulation of the screed bolts from it. Now you should evaluate the external condition of the collector and the windings. There should be no obvious black marks on them, as well as on the collector itself. If they are still there, then it is advisable to replace the collector, although it can be cleaned with fine-grained emery paper as a temporary measure.To do this, you will have to get the anchor out of the case. To get to it, you must remove the washer from the axis of the anchor itself, strip the axis of the lever and knock it out - after that it will be possible to remove the anchor along with its drive. The clutch drive lever is removed and the free rotation of the gear is checked by hand: it should be completely free in one direction, and completely blocked in the opposite direction. Chips, and even more so chips should not be detected. If free rotation is difficult or impossible, and there are traces of wear on the teeth, the coupling together with the gear are replaced with new ones - it is unacceptable to operate such a device.In the process of gradual disassembly of the starter, using an ohmmeter, the windings of the starter itself and the armature are tested for the presence of traces of short circuits. Checking the starter armature is mandatory, since then disassembling it for the sake of this is quite problematic. Reassembling the assembly should be done carefully and slowly. Before that, all surfaces are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt, and plastic parts are necessarily lubricated with one of the special lubricants, for example, lithol. All metal parts, which are in excess in the starter, are treated with engine oil. How you can perform high-quality and self-diagnosis is shown in the video:

CBC 27MHz: 3I-1289

VladislaV_200

Sometimes for a month or two all the chiki-pockies in this regard are with a starter, so I suspect that I will sort it out, but I will not find the floating reason.
But all the same, apparently it is necessary to shoot, otherwise yesterday it manifested itself a couple of times a day, although today not once. At least I can deal with the model on the shot.

Post has been edited VladislaV – 8.5.2014, 0:29

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VladislaV_200

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VladislaV_200

I took off the starter today, It turned out Pramo Iskra 11.131.568

Bendix only turns in one direction.But I also have a temporary trouble. How to remove the bendix from the shaft? There is some kind of bushing, and under it is a retaining ring. Just tap to jump off?

Disassembled it almost completely. Shook out a mountain of sand from the inside, smeared something with lithol.

And yet, in the store they say that if the starter turns cleanly, but the engine does not turn, then it is rather a retractor. And if the bendix was scrolling, there would be a grinding and noise. And my spinning is quite clean, only sometimes it seems like a tooth in a tooth, loudly and immediately everything subsides. Maybe, after all, the retractor does not engage the bendix with the flywheel?

Post has been edited VladislaV – 18.5.2014, 13:55

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I took off the starter today, It turned out Pramo Iskra 11.131.568

Hello, Vlad. Take off and run Bendix This will help you

Post has been edited s1702erg – 18.5.2014, 14:18

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VVS. just don't use it.

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The fork is definitely all right, I was convinced.

So Bendix. Is it easily collapsible? Or take a new one right away? And then flaring-rolling does not suit me, and in Gaz-DetailsMachines it seems there is for 416r what I need.

And yet, the cylinder that is magnetized in the retractor and pulls the plug, should it be lubricated? I podlitolil it a bit, and then read that it seems like there is no need for lubrication. And it is also supposedly not needed under the bendix itself, apparently on that oblique gear. Do you need lubrication in these two places? Or will it dry up in summer or freeze in winter? I will not say that it was exactly dry there, there was some kind of fat, but quite a bit, maybe it did not accumulate from there.

Post has been edited VladislaV – 19.5.2014, 10:38

Auto: 3110 was, Kenga is

Plastic gears ?!
No one was hitting the designers or technologists with anything on the head.

Car: Ford C-Max Opel Meriva

It's okay, folks! The outer gear of the planetary gearbox is made of composite plastic! Firstly, it is stronger and more wear-resistant than silumin, which is used in the same Cheboksary (read: Chinese). Secondly, when starting the engine, the load on the inner gear of the planetary reducer is not large. The main load falls on the satellite gears and the gear on the starter armature. Most often, the outer gear grinds down due to the fact that some, especially smart, carriers try to ride a starter (Drive, say, to a gas station). And at the same time, in order to go faster, they cut in the 2nd or even the 3rd gear. This, by the way, is a real life case. In general, I can give statistics on the sales of spare parts for gear starters Pramo-Iskra in the Auto 49 chain of stores. So, when sold through their network (85 stores), about 350 of these starters (VAZ in the range) per month, they sell, on average, the following number of spare parts for them: Starter drive (bendix) - 3 pcs., Retracting relay - 12 pcs., Reducer - 1 pc. at 3 months.

Car: Ford C-Max Opel Meriva

George_, By the way, the photo is NOT an ISKROV gearbox. At Iskrovsky, satellite gears are freely removed from their guides; a copper bushing is inserted inside them. and they are held in place by a common lid. And here the gears are riveted by a mushroom-shaped guide.

Drive up to me at Electrozavodskaya, I'll show you!

Auto: GAZ-310231 AMS, VAZ-21041-67i. station wagons

One of these reasons.
... operation of the starter when the engine is running due to "sticking" of the ignition switch in the "Starter" position.

I did not find any difference in the results of failure on the Volga due to “sticking of the ignition lock, gearbox Volgovsky, Roverovsky and Toyotovsky starters.
It looks as if the entire gearbox has been in a meat grinder and the holder of the electric / motor brush assembly has melted.

... in March there was a similar case with the starter Lucas:
- the gearbox is metal and “survived”,
- the engine “burned out” to a characteristic odor and appearance.

This is not a Warranty case.

Car: Ford C-Max Opel Meriva

+1! When the engine is started, the starter turns the crankshaft at a speed of 150-200 rpm. At the same time, the anchor of the starter of the gear starter is spinning at almost exorbitant modes - from 9000 to 16000 rpm (depending on the design). Now imagine at what speed the armature will spin when the engine is running and its revolutions are about 100 rpm. The anchor, of course, wedges, and the gears of the reducer grind!

Car: Ford C-Max Opel Meriva

This is what the Pramo-Iskra starter gearbox looks like!

The article describes in great detail with a photo accompaniment the process of repairing a starter on a VAZ 2110 car.

In a new car, breakdowns and malfunctions in the starter are rare. But if the car has served for more than 5 years, then problems may arise. The car owner himself can determine the malfunction of the starter - the car does not start, uncharacteristic sounds when starting the engine, the starter turns off spontaneously.

But many motorists do not pay attention to such signals from the car. And they bring the situation to the point that it is no longer possible to "save" the starter. But an experienced motorist who monitors his car, immediately, by the sound of a working car, will determine the malfunction of this part. So how do you fix a starter? Its repair takes place in several dozen stages described below.

1. First, you need to remove the starter from the car. Now we proceed to disassemble the part.

3. Disconnect the tire from the traction relay contact bolt.

4. Carefully remove the two bolts that hold the traction relay.

5. The traction relay must be removed from the starter.

6. Set aside the starter itself and remove the armature from the traction relay. To do this, lift it up and the anchor loop is released from the lever.

7. Now we return to the starter itself. Remove the tie rod nuts.

8. The next step is to remove the cover from the drive end with the gearbox and the same assembly part.

9. The cover must also be removed from the side of the collector with brushes and brush holders.

10. Then remove the gear from the anchor shaft.

11. Pull the anchor itself out of the starter.

12. The anchor shaft has a washer on the drive side (pay special attention to this).

13. Use a screwdriver or other thin object to remove the anchor shaft support.

14. Then use a small screwdriver to remove the two tie rods from the starter cover. In general, it is not necessary to remove them, if you are in a hurry, you can leave them, however, it is more convenient to remove the drive and gearbox without these pins.

15. Then remove the three gears of the reducer. A breakdown of the starter may consist precisely in the fact that these gears have damaged, broken teeth or needle bearings embedded in the gears. If this defect is present, then replace the parts and the starter will work again.

16. But, if the gears are in order, then continue to disassemble and check the starter for damage further. It is necessary to remove the gearbox with the drive from the cover, after pressing on the gear of the starter drive.

17. The support with the seal must be removed from the lever.

19. Use a hammer to knock the stop ring off the retaining ring using a suitable arbor.

20. Carefully remove the retaining ring first and then the stop ring.

21. Remove the actuator assembly from the drive shaft.

22. Unscrew the lever retaining ring.

23. Then remove the lever with washer and leash.

24. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the spring of the lever.

25. Now you can remove the lever from the liner, and separate the halves of the lever.

26. Remove the meshing gear retaining ring.

27. Next, disassemble the internal gear and remove the drive shaft support from the shaft.

28. Carefully remove the o-ring from the pore. Examine it carefully. A damaged, deformed, hardened ring will adversely affect the operation of the entire starter. It must be replaced.

29. The next step is to remove the insert from the support.

30. From the side of the collector, unscrew the two screws and remove the brush holder.

31. Using a screwdriver, pry off the brush clips.

32. Then remove these clips and their hold-down springs.Again, replace deformed or damaged parts, heavily compressed or bent, broken springs.

33. Pull the brushes out of the brush holder guides.

34. Uninsulated brushes must be removed.

35. Then remove the cardboard insulation strip. If it is damaged, compressed, torn, replace it with a new one.

36. Remove the insulated brushes with connecting rails.

37. Carefully and in detail inspect the anchor. Pay attention to the collector.

1. If the part is dirty, smoked, sand it with glass fine sandpaper. If traces of significant roughness are visible on it or mica protrudes strongly, grind the part on a lathe and then grind the collector with fine sandpaper.

2. If traces of yellow plaque from the bearing are visible on the anchor, then clean it with fine glass sandpaper, because later this can lead to jamming of the shaft gear. If there are dents or nicks on the surfaces of parts such as pins and shaft splines, replace the entire armature. Pay attention to the winding along the ends of the armature. If you see any flaws there, replace the anchor.

3. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates.

38. Using a test lamp supplied with an alternating current of 220 V, check the condition of the armature winding. Connect the lamp voltage to the collector plate and the armature core. If everything is in order, the lamp should not be lit. If, nevertheless, it burns, then the anchor winding has closed. In this case, simply replace the starter armature with a new one.

39. While holding the overrunning clutch, turn the starter gear in both directions: clockwise the gear should move absolutely freely, and should not rotate counterclockwise at all. If something is broken, replace the drive.

40. Then put the starter drive onto the drive shaft. If everything is in order, then it should move freely, without jamming or stopping, along the splines of the shaft.

41. If you see that the drive parts are badly worn, deformed, damaged, replace the drive. If you find nicks on the winding end of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained emery wheel. Choose a circle with a small diameter.

42. Inspect the bushings in which the shafts rotate. They are installed in the starter cover on the drive side, on the manifold side, the armature and drive shaft support. If bushings are deformed or scored, replace covers or supports with broken bushings. Cracked covers and supports should also be replaced.

43. Carefully inspect the starter itself, and if there are traces of anchor rubbing on it, replace the cover and intermediate support with a new one.

44. Worn brushes up to the size between the working surface and the terminal less than 3.5 mm, replace.

45. The brushes must move freely towards the brush holder. And the brush holder should not have cracks, chips, flaws. Check if this is so. If everything is in order, then proceed to the next stage of the repair. If there are faults, replace the parts.

46. Begin inspection of the drive shaft. Its elements should not show signs of damage, severe wear and deformation. If there is plaque, remove it with fine glass sandpaper. Work carefully so as not to damage parts.

47. Using an ohmmeter, check if the contact plate closes the traction relay contact bolts. If they do not close, replace the parts or simply repair the relay.

48. To repair the relay:

1. Remove the two screws.
2. Unsolder the relay coils and terminals.
3. Then remove the cover and sand the pins and bolt heads with a sandpaper. The relay should be assembled in the reverse order.

49. Now proceed with the assembly of the starter. Before starting, lubricate the gear teeth with engine oil. Assemble the starter in reverse order.

50. Install the brush holder into the starter separately from the cover on the collector side.To assemble and install this part, use a bushing with a diameter (mark 1) equal to the diameter of the manifold (approximately 30 millimeters).

51. Install the assembled brush holder into the starter housing until it stops, then remove the bushing and install the cover on the starter from the collector side. The renovation is completed.

Video (click to play).

And your starter for a VAZ car is as good as new again!

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