DIY starter repair Volkswagen Passat B3

In detail: do-it-yourself starter repair Volkswagen Passat B3 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

• Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
• Mark the location of the wires on the starter traction relay, then disconnect them.
• Raise the front of the vehicle and secure it to the stands. Since the front support is also secured with the starter bolt, support the power unit from below with a jack or winch.
• Unscrew the screws and remove the starter.
• The starter is installed in the reverse order of removal.

Provides general guidelines for disassembling a typical starter. Some minor differences may arise depending on the modification of the starter.

• After disassembling the starter, check:
- the condition of the brushes, as well as the freedom of movement of the brushes in the brush holders;
- measure the length of the brushes, and in case of wear of the brushes, install new brushes that need to be soldered into place. When soldering, make sure that the solder does not get on the braided wire, as this can prevent the brushes from moving freely in the holders;
- clamping force and position of the brush springs;
- type of collector, which should be cleaned with a cloth soaked in gasoline or trichlorethylene, and sanded with fine-grained emery paper;
- condition of self-lubricating bearing bushings; if replacement is necessary, new bushings should be immersed in engine oil (viscosity SAE 30 or 40) for at least 20 minutes before installing them in the starter;
- check the gear drive teeth and make sure that the freewheel clutch rotates in only one direction;
- check the collector diameter.
• Assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

Video (click to play).

The main malfunctions of the starter.

If you did not find information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car.
With a high degree of probability, the information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car as well.

Hello! If you are the owner of a 1991-1996 Volkswagen Passat, then most likely you have encountered problems related to the starter. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to read about how to independently remove the starter and repair the Volkswagen Passat starter without resorting to the services of car mechanics.

Moreover, this will save a lot of money. Starters with power from 0.9 kW to 1.7 kW are used on cars of this model. Naturally, higher power starters are installed on vehicles with a diesel engine.

They can also be equipped with a reduction gear. And so in order to remove the starter from the car you need to:

-first of all, remove the negative terminal from the battery;
- remember the location of the wires on the solenoid relay 11 (see Fig.) Of the starter and remove them;
- Jack up the front of the car and place it on the stands;
- Support the power unit of the car with a jack so that it does not overturn, since the front support is fixed with the starter bolt;
- unscrew the starter mounting bolts and remove it. The starter is installed in the reverse order.

Place new bushings in engine oil for half an hour before installing;

- check the condition of the bendix drive teeth and the bendix itself; it should only rotate in one direction;
- check the manifold itself, it should not have visible wear of the plates. If there is wear in the form of shallow grooves, give the armature to the turner, let him grind it until the surface is leveled. The starter is assembled in the reverse order.Do not forget that in addition to mechanical damage to the stator elements, damage to the armature (rotor) and stator windings often occurs. You can read about the method for checking the anchor here.

1. When the starter is turned on, the starter motor does not work.

The cause of this malfunction of the starter may be a malfunction of the starter motor itself, the traction relay, or in the wires. To find a malfunction, first check for the presence of +12 volts at the terminal of the traction relay. If there is no voltage when the starter is turned on, then the electrical circuit (wires) are damaged. In the presence of voltage, the malfunction lies in the traction relay and the starter motor itself. If, when the starter is turned on, voltage is applied to the traction relay, but it does not work (does not click), then the retractor relay is faulty (winding breakage or short circuit to ground).

If the relay clicks, then it is possible that the powerful contacts (pyataks) are burnt out or the starter motor itself is out of order. To check the operation of the starter motor itself, apply a thick wire to the traction relay contact on the side of the electric motor with a voltage of +12 volts from the battery. The minus of the battery is not forget to connect to the starter housing. If the electric motor starts to work, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the traction relay.

In this case, the reason may be: a dead battery, too thick oil in the engine crankcase, copper-graphite starter brushes are not pressed sufficiently against the armature collector, the collector surface is worn out, starter bearings are worn out.

When the ignition key is released from the "engine start" position, the starter continues to operate.

The reason may be sticking of the contacts of the solenoid relay or the ignition lock itself is faulty (the contacts are welded). At the same time, it will not interrupt the voltage supply to the solenoid relay contact. In this case, immediately turn off the ignition and disconnect the battery. Otherwise, your starter motor may fly to pieces. Be attentive and good luck with your starter repair!

I recommend reading some more interesting repair posts:

Starter repair video VW Passat B3 B4

Everyone knows perfectly well that the car needs to be serviced, which, but many do it without a hitch: they change oils, filters, etc., but a lot of car owners do not pay attention to such an important and necessary unit in a car engine as a STARTER.

Many car owners drive to the last, until the starter stops working and only then they start to think something.

The car starter Volkswagen Passat B3, B4 needs to be serviced from time to time, that is, removed, disassembled, cleaned and lubricated.

In this article, I want to show where the gear starter is located, removing the starter, how to check the starter, the starter's operation, the starter bushing, correctly installing the starter on the engine, connecting the starter, in relation to the Volkswagen Passat B3, B4, all this is on the video.

Also on this site there are articles on the starter:

If you have any questions or additions. please do not hesitate and write in the comments.

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When the starter does not turn, there are several reasons: poor contact, wear of the brushes, damage to the windings, low.

In this video, we will consider how you can repair the starter retractor relay with your own hands. In the video.

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Some vehicles are equipped with starters of the following power: with an engine with a working volume of 1.6 liters - 0.9 kW: with engines with a working volume of 1.8 and 2.0 liters, as well as a diesel engine - 1.1 kW: with the presence of a diesel engine with a gas turbine supercharging - 1.7 kW.

Caution: Disconnect the ground (-) cable of the battery, otherwise there is a danger of a short circuit.

Support the power unit with the VW 10-222A tool in conjunction with the VW 10-222 / 1 A tool.

If no support is available, place a suitable pipe or T-bars over the engine compartment and support on the depressed wing belts with wooden spacers over the fenders. Do not support the pipe directly on the fenders! Insert suitable wire or hooks into the lifting eyes of the power unit and tie to the pipe. Tighten the hooks or wire. Alternatively, support the power unit from below using a hydraulic jack using a wooden spacer.

Attention: If the power unit is not supported, it will sag down, which will not allow the starter to be inserted back.

Snack with side cutters two clamps (arrows) securing the wire from the alternator and terminal 50 wire from the ignition and starter. Depending on the model, the traction relay can be equipped with a plastic cover, in this case remove the cover and unfasten the wire.

Unfasten and remove the plug connector (arrow). For models up to 9/93, disconnect the 2 plugs (white and black). Unscrew thick cable from starter terminal 30 (arrow). For models up to 9/93, an additional thin wire is connected to terminal 30 of the generator from the B + connector of the generator - this wire should also be removed.

10/93 models: Unscrew the nut (arrow) from the cable holder stud.

Unscrew the starter mounting bolts and pull the starter up.

Attach starter and tighten bolts to 60 Nm.

Tighten electrical wires to starter and alternator. In this case, tighten the nut at the starter to 13 Nm.

Connect the white and black plugs.

Fasten the alternator wire and starter wire, terminal 50, at the traction turnip with two clamps or secure in a plastic holder.

Since a powerful diesel starter must develop a significant torque, it is additionally equipped, in the cover on the collector side, with a fastener (3).

Serviceability of the starter can only be checked in the removed state. The starter motor must also be removed to replace the brushes or to check the magnetic switch. Before you disconnect the electrical connections shown in the figure (1 - main electrical wire; 2 - magnetic switch wire), disconnect the wires from the battery ground, otherwise dangerous sparking may occur when disconnecting the above cables.

Disconnect the ground wire from the battery terminal. Raise the vehicle from the front and secure.
Mark the main electrical wire and disconnect it from the starter.
Disconnect the wire (mark) from the magnetic switch.
Unscrew the starter wire holders.
"C" type engine: if present, remove the thermal protection plate.
Unscrew the starter mount (3 bolts), while marking the location of the centering sleeve.
If installed, remove the rear starter support.
Remove the starter from the engine and remove it from the engine compartment under the vehicle.
"F" type engine: remove the air filter housing.
Remove the 3 starter mounting bolts. When doing so, mark the location of the centering sleeve.
Remove the starter cover (if fitted).
Remove the rear starter support.
Remove the starter from the bottom of the engine compartment.
16-valve engine: remove the thermal protection of the exhaust (2 bolts).
Remove the 3 starter mounting bolts. When doing so, mark the location of the centering sleeve.
Remove the right front wheel.
Remove the muffler exhaust manifold reinforcement from the engine housing (2 bolts).
Remove the rear starter support (3 bolts) and remove the starter from the engine.
Remove the starter from the engine compartment on the right side above the steering linkage.

Removing the magnetic switch

A damaged magnetic starter switch must not be disassembled; it must be replaced entirely.

Remove the starter and clamp it in a jawed vise.
Depending on the type of starter, loosen 2 or 3 bolts in the flange of the magnetic starter switch.
Unscrew the electrical connection to the starter and unhook the pull of the magnetic switch from the starter plug.
Remove the magnetic switch from the starter.
When assembling, lubricate the eyelet of the pull rod of the magnetic switch with a high-temperature grease (for example, Liqui Moly 320) and attach to the starter plug.
Make sure that the return spring is in the correct position, and then reinstall the magnetic switch housing and tighten with the bolts.

If the starter refuses to work, then it is possible that the brushes are only jammed (if they are not worn down to the minimum size). For replacement, you need a powerful soldering iron of at least 150 watts. If you do not have it, then you need to contact a car electrician in a car repair shop, while removing and installing the starter yourself. There, your starter will also be checked for mechanical and electrical faults.

Remove the starter.
Depending on the type of starter, removal of the manifold shield (expansion bolt) is carried out in different ways.
After removing the manifold shield, disconnect the carbon brush wire from the holder.
Remove the carbon brushes with pressure springs from the holder guides.
If necessary, clean the brushes and guides with a cloth soaked in gasoline.
Check carbon pads for wear. If they are worn down to their minimum length of 7 mm or less, then they must be replaced as a set.
Depending on the type of starter, new brushes (in any case four) must be either screwed on or soldered to the wire of the old brushes. To do this, cut the wire of the old brush halfway between the connection point and the carbon brush.
Strip the free end of the copper wire and make sure that the new connection is well soldered and that no thickening of the wire is formed during soldering and it does not harden, press the new brush as tightly as possible to the soldering point.
Before assembly, check if the carbon brushes are stuck in their guides on the brush holders.

If the removed starter has strong signs of wear, for example, a strongly retracted collector, traces of burning or anchor plates cling to the housing, then the armature bearings are badly broken, or the stator winding in the housing has become unusable.

A starter worn out in this way should not be repaired on your own - it is best to leave it to a specialist (Bosch) or buy a new one.

Compared to other cars, this repair is complicated by the fact that the starter and gearbox are held by one bolt on the front engine mount. Therefore, the engine must be fixed to the suspension during repairs.

Question - on B4, 2e, the same parsley? The starter died yesterday, I wanted to change it myself near the house. I just changed it about three years ago, did not fix anything, I screwed everything up and down.

Post has been editedDoc118: 29 February 2016 - 16:31

By the way, no one will tell you the catalog number of such a starter? I called “Rus”, and I am still waiting for an answer.

Well, actually. when removing the starter, the unit must be jacked from below or slightly suspended
So that when installing, the bolt hits normally

I'm not at the computer anymore .. if you take a new one, take it right away without the sleeve

Well friends, wish me luck. Tomorrow I will take off the starter without jacking up the engine) On the previous typewriter it rolled)) True, the lower bolt “per teaspoon per hour” to twist.

Yes, I hear, not blind!))) I tried it on yesterday morning before work. It's uncomfortable (((Although I was in a hurry. In any case, tomorrow! Everything tomorrow !!

Yes, damn it, I fixed the car. The second day of spring, his mother is a sorceress.

Congratulate me. Today I got a new starter (albeit in the old building) and it is not at all expensive !!)) For three days my swallow stood near the house, today they brought me “from the pusher” and I went to Ozernaya Street. On the way, I experienced several unpleasant moments - Troilus, sneezed, periodically did not want to go. While removing / putting on the starter, fidgeting around the machine, I found a couple of “interesting” problems - the candle on the third cylinder was unscrewed by two turns. Spun it up. On the same two turns, the cover on the OX expansion tank was unscrewed. Tomorrow I will check if the exhaust goes into the cooling system.

P.S. Fucking pre-sales.

P.P.S. The complete bulkhead of the starter cost 4500, remove / install - 2500 (of which 500 rubles - replacement of three ((THREE, Karl.)) Broken pins for securing the protection).

Post has been editedDoc118: 03 March 2016 - 23:25

2000 for remove / put a starter is PPC

If there was a garage with a pit, I would have rented it myself. And so - you have to pay ((

The lower hairpin was twisted for about 15 minutes. At first I tried myself near the house, the result was a call to a friend, launching "from a pusher", a trip to the service))

But because it was necessary to jack up this whole thing and unload the hairpin)

This was not the problem)) Hairpin - samopal) A threaded pin and a welded nut with licked edges

Post has been editedDoc118: 15 March 2016 - 15:45

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Depending on the modification of the starter, repair operations for a particular model may slightly differ from those described below.

Disassemble in the following order:

- unscrew the nut and disconnect the starter power wire from the traction relay clamp;

- unscrew the Phillips screws and remove the traction relay from the drive side;

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- disconnect the relay armature from the on lever;

- unscrew the tie bolts and remove them from the body;

- using a screwdriver as a lever, remove the rubber cushions above the activation lever;

- remove the cover from the drive side and at the same time remove the engaging lever;

- disconnect the engaging lever from the armature slip ring;

- unscrew the screws and remove the small end cover and gasket;

- remove the snap ring and gaskets, noting the exact number of gaskets, as they determine the axial play of the armature;

- remove the protective collector plate with a gasket;

- before removing the brush holder assembly, take a tubular mandrel with an outer diameter equal to the diameter of the collector. Install the mandrel against the manifold, then slide the bushings and brush holder onto the mandrel;

- mark the position of the engaging lever plate relative to the fork and remove the rotor;

- knock the thrust ring off the retaining ring on the rotor shaft with a metal tubular mandrel, then remove the retaining and thrust rings by sliding them along the shaft;

- remove the pinion drive from the rotor shaft.

After disassembling the starter, check:

- the condition of the brushes, as well as the freedom of movement of the brushes in the brush holders;

- the length of the brushes, and in case of wear of the brushes, install new brushes that must be soldered into place. When soldering, make sure that the solder does not get on the wire, as this can prevent the brushes from moving freely in the holders;

- clamping force and position of the brush springs;

- type of collector, which should be cleaned with a cloth soaked in white spirit, and sanded with fine-grained emery paper;

- condition of self-lubricating bearing bushings. If it is necessary to replace the bushings, the new bushings should be immersed in engine oil (viscosity SAE 30 or 40) for at least 20 minutes before being installed in the starter;

- check the gear drive teeth and make sure that the freewheel clutch rotates in only one direction;

- check the collector diameter.

Assemble in reverse order.

Initially, the removal of the starter was conceived in order to find the leakage current, constantly 0.2 A. As a result of removing the starter, it turned out that he was not to blame. Well, since I took it off, it was decided to go over the starter completely.
We remove and set aside the air conditioning compressor. The process of removing it, I didn’t use. it's as easy as shelling pears, you unscrew 4 bolts and it falls on you, while you do not need to loosen the belt, everything is removed and so.

At the same time I saw that there was no thrust bolt supporting the turbine.
Unscrew the bolt on the clamp securing the (+) wire going to the starter (unscrew, from under the hood)

The most interesting thing begins, we unscrew the upper starter bolt, I unscrewed it for about an hour, in a variety of ways, I took pictures only two. (Head 16)

We unscrew the lower starter bolt (the head is 16, as on the upper one)

We unscrew the nut (+) of the output on the retractor. will have to sweat too, uncomfortable.

Cleaned up a bit of dirt

DISASSEMBLY
We unscrew the nut on the retractor, which secures the wire from the starter.

A little oxidized, but not fatal, I thought it would be worse.

We unscrew the starter studs (not to be confused in places)

Having unscrewed the 3 retractor mounting bolts, we remove the whole thing. (I unscrewed the bolts somehow as it turned out later that the bolts were sitting on the retainer)

Knocked on a screwdriver and broke it

These are the hands you will have if you, like me, go to bed and don’t buy gloves.

Don't lubricate anything here.

The planetary gears, for some reason, there was zero lubrication and there was no campaign. However, there is no wear.

Bendix and anchor front end. (no wear).

The front bearing is needle bearing.

Front end of the starter motor shaft with gear.

We unscrew the bolts securing the rear bearing cover.

Remove the retaining ring and the washer under it

Remove the lid and see the brush apparatus

Dirt in the stator, cleaning problem everything sticks to the magnets and cannot be cleaned, brushed on metal, only without fanaticism, the magnet is a fragile thing.

The manifold is slightly dirty, but no wear.

Anchor gear, no wear.

Now you need to remove the bendix travel stop, inside the ring there is another round split ring

Use a suitable tool to knock it down, I came up with it like this.

We remove the ring, you will have to open it slightly, it is from soft metal.

Remove the retaining ring

We take out the stator cover. Attention, it is placed in a strictly defined position. Mark it right away, otherwise you will disassemble it on a new one.

We clean the anchor. Only with a metal brush for heaven's sake, I cleaned with a plastic

We clean the collector tracks. Do not scratch the collector fins!

Collector after cleaning and grinding.

All parts assembled, cleaned and conditioned

We put the cover in the stator. Don't forget about labels

And now a little trick. Pay attention to the plastic ties, without them you will evaporate the brush apparatus into place to insert. Figured it out myself

Gently insert the brush into place, correct the brushes (carefully) with a screwdriver, do not damage the brushes and the collector

We cut off, no longer needed, screeds.

We put the lid in place, put on the washer, stopper and lid, pre-lubricate everything, I used MC-1000 metal-plating grease.

We lubricate the shaft and assemble the gearbox housing. Housing-washer-stopper

Putting on the bendix and the restraining ring

The fun begins, how to put the restraining ring on the retaining ring. I tapped it on the shaft with a hammer (fortunately, the metal is soft) and somehow miraculously pulled it, I didn't understand how

We put on the retractor there and put everything together in the body, then I regretted that I did not have 3 hands

We tighten the 3 bolts for fastening the bendix with an anaerobic, detachable thread lock.

We lubricate the gear, the shaft and assemble everything finally. Do not mix up the pins.

It is better to tighten the engine with the case with the same pins, you will not connect them with your hands (do not insert into each other)

The installation process is in reverse order, but in principle there is nothing complicated, it is still inconvenient and disgusting.

The occurrence of problems with starting the engine can cause many inconveniences, because the functioning of the vehicle depends on this. Can't start Volkswagen Passat B3 - starter repair is one way to solve the problem. Of course, it is better not to lead to such a situation at all. It is necessary to pay attention to the car, to monitor its technical condition. If this is not done, many parts will quickly fail. By following a few simple rules, you will save yourself from unexpected malfunctions and additional costs. So, we recommend:

Regularly visit the service station for diagnostic activities.
Observe the rules for using the device.
Suspecting the presence of deviations in the starter, immediately go to the workshop.

Remember that any breakdowns are not only an unpleasant situation, but also costs that can be avoided by doing car maintenance. Take some time, stop by the service station, and you will be aware of the technical condition of the vehicle, you will be able to prevent the development of problems with the Volkswagen Passat B3 - you will not need to repair the starter.

Each mechanism consists of certain components, has its own task. In order to be able to prevent breakdowns, it does not fit to understand the details of the device. So, the starter includes:

Electrical engine.
Anchor element.
Relay.
Overrunning clutch.
Brushes.

Malfunctions can occur for various reasons and are divided into two types. The first is mechanical problems. In most cases, they are represented by natural wear and tear. Such breakdowns are determined by visual inspection; this does not require special equipment. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the worn out component with a new one.

The second type of breakdown is electrical. To identify such a failure, you need to conduct testing at the stand. Only then can we say that there is a problem. The insidiousness of electrical breakdowns lies in the impossibility of determining with the naked eye. Failures occur gradually, and in order to prevent them, it is recommended to regularly carry out diagnostics.

At our service station, mechanics efficiently and quickly carry out the restoration of electromechanical parts. You will be pleasantly surprised by the low prices. Turning to our workshop for help, you will receive the services of real professionals.

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Original new and remanufactured units (generators, starters, air conditioners), spare parts, repair kits, consumables; a special tool, unique diagnostic stands, and, most importantly, people - masters who are ready to help you!

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Premise: Starter motor cranks with difficulty, sticks and stops. In this case, the storage battery is in order - charged. The cause of the "sticking" of the starter - the armature touches the stator. The gap between the armature and the starter stator is tenths of a millimeter, therefore, the slightest misalignment of the starter armature shaft relative to the stator leads to contact of the armature poles with the stator poles. The skew of the starter armature shaft occurs due to wear of the plain bearings in which the armature rotates (wear of the armature shaft necks is negligible). The front bearing wears out more intensively, because it has the main load. The bearings are brass bushings. The front bearing is mounted (inserted with an interference fit) into the hole in the clutch housing. The rear bearing is mounted in the rear cover (shroud) of the starter. The permanent magnet stator starter has an additional bearing on the front starter cover. The starter with stator windings (BOSCH 00 208 416 (417) WV AUDI 055 911 023 J) has no bearing on the front cover.

After several replacements, the new sleeve is already inserted easily by hand. However, during operation, this leads to the fact that the bushing can turn in the bore and then, over time, the bore breaks, eccentricity is formed in the crankcase hole, which leads to a skew of the starter shaft and then - the starter is jammed - the inability to start the engine. As it turned out from communication with various servicemen, this is a fairly common disease of golfers and trade winds over 10 years old.
I managed to cure it in the following way.

0. Determine the size of the eccentricity.
1.a. We grind (purchase, order) a larger bushing (by
eccentricity) of the outer diameter. Remove excess metal.
b. We take a new sleeve and solder a few mm from the side. We delete the excess.
2. Insert the sleeve with a slight interference.
3. If a starter with permanent magnets, then it is better to replace it with a starter with windings on the stator - such a starter has a larger gap between the armature and the stator and therefore the permissible shaft misalignment is also greater (on disassembly the starter costs about 2500 rubles, when buying, pay attention to the condition the shank - this is which will be inserted into the sleeve - it must be without scoring, polished). It is also optimal to replace the rear starter bushing at the same time in order to "forget" about the problem for a long time. By the way, at the same time, you can replace the brushes, since the starter is disassembled, the brushes can be taken from the VAZ-2108 and sharpened a little. The standard brushes are welded, but you can also solder them neatly with a powerful soldering iron, squeeze the current leads of the brushes with round-nose pliers during soldering so that they do not get tinted, otherwise the current leads will lose their flexibility. That's it, good luck with the renovation!