DIY starter repair on a vaz

In detail: do-it-yourself starter repair on a vaz from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Normal operation of a car engine is possible only if all its constituent elements, as well as the main components of the machine, are in working order. One of the main components of the ignition system in domestic "tens" is the starter device. For more information on how to repair a VAZ 2110 starter with your own hands and in what cases it needs to be carried out, you can learn from this material.

A starter unit with the number 5702.3708 is put on the domestic "tens", in fact, it is a direct current electric motor. One of the main components of such a device is a traction relay, as well as a planetary gearbox. Excitation of the motor is carried out due to the action of permanent magnets installed inside the structure of the unit. The body of the mechanism itself is made of steel; it is connected with the help of two pins with the device covers.

Designation of the constituent elements of the device

Also, the design of the starter unit implies the presence of an armature and a stator. The armature is designed for rotation in sintered liners, as a result of which the rotation is transmitted through the gearbox to the device drive. When the driver turns the key in the ignition lock, voltage from the car's battery is transmitted to the relay coils. As a result of the influence of the magnetic field, the armature is first retracted, as a result of which the gear of the gearbox engages with the flywheel. Accordingly, this leads to the closure of the contact bolts within the structure.

Then the armature itself remains in the same state, it fixes it like this with the help of the holding winding. When the key is turned in the ignition lock, this winding is de-energized. Ultimately, this contributes to the fact that the anchor returns to its original position (the author of the video is HF Autoelectrician).

Video (click to play).

If the device stops working, the reasons may be as follows:

Replacing the VAZ 2110 starter and repairing it as follows:

Starting the engine on a modern car is carried out using an electric starter. The failure of this device can occur for various reasons associated with its defects or natural wear and tear of the unit. Repair of a VAZ 2107 starter makes sense only if the cost of spare parts and work does not exceed the price of a new one. In any case, first it is necessary to establish the causes of the malfunction, this can be done by analyzing their external manifestations:

Idle rotation of the rotor indicates a breakdown of the overrunning clutch.
Clicks of the solenoid relay in the absence of any other signs of starter operation indicate burning of the contacts.
The lack of rotation of the starter rotor can be caused by wear of the brush assembly or a break in its winding.

In some cases, unsuccessful attempts to start the engine are caused by a low battery charge. Usually, drivers face such a problem in winter. Starter repair begins with removing it, cleaning it from dirt and thoroughly inspecting it.

This operation requires a set of wrenches and a portable lamp to illuminate the work area. The procedure for dismantling the starter is as follows:

Disconnect the battery.
On the retractor relay, unscrew the nut on the contact pin and remove the wire connecting it to the battery.
Disconnect the control circuit.
Using the key "13", unscrew the three bolts securing the starter to the cylinder block.
Carefully remove the device from its seat and, having unrolled it, take it out of the engine compartment.

When removing the unit, be careful not to damage nearby wiring.

The starter motor removed from the engine compartment must be cleaned of dirt and traces of technical fluids. The procedure for disassembling the mechanism is as follows:

We remove the retractor relay from the starter housing and, by unscrewing the tightening screws, disassemble it into its component parts. During the inspection, special attention is paid to the brass contact groups, the burning of which can lead to the failure of the mechanism.
We dismantle the cover of the device and check the condition of the brush assembly. Significant track wear and carbon wear are common causes of starter failure.
The integrity of the rotor winding is checked using a multimeter set to the resistance measurement mode.
The overrunning clutch is checked by hand; a serviceable device allows only one-way rotation.

After establishing the reason for the failure of the electric starter, you should attend to the purchase of the necessary spare parts.

Methods for restoring the device to work depend on the nature of the malfunction. The easiest way to cope with the burning of the contacts on the retractor relay is enough to grind them with fine emery paper. The slip rings are also cleaned and polished when replacing the brushes. The rest of the faults are eliminated by replacing the failed parts or assemblies.

Do-it-yourself starter repair saves money on purchasing a new device. The restored mechanism is mounted on the car in the reverse order of removal and connected to the on-board network. We check and start the engine with a repaired starter.

Repair of a VAZ 2106 starter is a rather painstaking process that requires the endurance of a person and his straight hands. It is quite possible to carry out repairs yourself if you follow all the points of the manual correctly. Today we are publishing an article about self-repair of a starter on a VAZ 2106 car.

DIY starter repair

1. The first step is to remove the starter from the engine.

2. Using the "13" wrench, weaken the tightening of the nut securing the wire to the traction relay.

3. Then disconnect the wire end.

4. We supply voltage 12V to the relay output.

5. We put "minus" - on the body, and the ohmmeter is connected to the contact bolts. In this case, for a working relay, the armature should push the overrunning clutch into the front cover window, and the contact bolts should close. We replace the faulty traction relay with a new one.

6. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the three screws.

8. We take out the rod with the spring from the relay case.

9. Install the new traction relay in the reverse order.

10. For further disassembly of the starter, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws.

12. To check the condition of the brushes, use a slotted screwdriver to unscrew the screw securing the contact wire.

13. Pressing the spring with a screwdriver, remove the brush. In the same way, we remove the three remaining brushes. The brushes worn out to a height of 12 mm or less are replaced.

Read also: DIY computer monitor repair

checking the starter relay VAZ 2109

checking the brushes;
the starter cover is removed, after which the screw fixing the fastening of all wires is unscrewed;
the spring is removed;
the brush is removed (as a rule, its minimum height should be 12 mm - otherwise, this means its erasure and mandatory replacement).

We continue to work with the VAZ 2109. The starter, which is being repaired with our own hands, must be carefully inspected.
At this stage, you can even arm yourself with a magnifying glass in order to see everything better.
Let's move on to the next step:

we check the winding of the starter itself (as mentioned above, this device does not differ much from other models of the VAZ 2109, and repairs with your own hands of the starter must be carried out skillfully and know all the basics of the circuit);
we take an ohmmeter and check for a short circuit between the turns and on the case;
we inspect the collector and other windings (for this it is necessary to carefully remove the ring so that it does not fall off, and pull it out);
remove the washer from the axis;
we unscrew a few bolts;
disconnect the tubes that serve to isolate the tie bolts and take them out;
we carefully inspect the collector and the winding (they should not have carbon deposits or surf);
wipe minor changes on the surface with emery paper.

On a vaz 2109, repairing a starter with your own hands also implies a thorough check of the armature winding.

we take a control lamp for 220 W;

we check the insulation for rupture, determine the shaft runout (which should be 0.08 mm, the insulation resistance should be at least 10 kOhm;

we connect the armature collector with one wire with a current of 220 V;

We connect the second wire through a 220 W 100 W lamp to the power case (if the lamp lights up, then there is a breakdown in the anchor and it needs to be replaced.

On a VAZ 21099 car, repairing a starter, where the anchor is in order, also implies an inspection and check of the collector.
A few important tips:

if the plates are burned in two places on the collector, then the coil is broken;

if the plates are blue, it means that a turn circuit has occurred (this happens rarely, but it does occur):

turn-to-turn closure is detected in the visible areas of the armature wire or busbar (usually the turns are crumpled or bent);

you can eliminate the short circuit and fix the bruised tires by checking for foreign bodies;

if the location of the closure is not found, it remains only to rewind the anchor.

On a VAZ 21093 car, a starter repair, as on a VAZ 21099 and 2109, after checking the windings, implies an inspection of the couplings and gears.
To do this, we carry out operations of the following type:

remove the washer from the anchor axis;

we take out the anchor assembly with the drive;

take out the clutch drive lever;

we begin to rotate the gear (while there should be no chips and notches, if any, it is advisable to replace the device).

The video, of course, can help in this matter, but first of all, you should understand what you are doing and how it works.Attention: When assembling the starter in reverse order, it is advisable to check its shell. All plastic parts must be covered with lithol (pictured below), even if they are in good condition.The instruction also recommends lubricating all parts that rub against with machine oil for prophylaxis.
Having learned how to repair a starter with our own hands, we get a unique opportunity not only to repair our favorite car with high quality, but also to really save. After all, the price of a new starter is not cheap in stores, and it is not always possible to find a good one.Welcome!
A starter - it is very important for every car, without it the car would simply not start while standing still and you would simply have to constantly push it in order to somehow revive it and start the engine. But nevertheless, over time, the starter becomes unusable and it will need to be replaced, but why change it if it can be simply repaired, or maybe it only has a faulty starter retractor relay, so it does not start the car, so in order not to run into car shop ahead of time, you can try to disassemble the faulty starter first, see which part has become unusable, then go to the car shop and buy it, and nothing needs to be replaced.But how to disassemble a starter removed from a car, few know, and therefore, especially for such people, we have prepared this article, in which we described in detail the process of repairing a starter on cars of a classic family.Note!
To repair an old starter, you will need to stock up on: The main set of wrenches, pliers, as well as two screwdrivers, one of which will be a cross-type and the other flat (Flat type, if possible, take two screwdrivers at once), and you will also need to take vernier calipers, hammer and conventional mandrels with which it will be possible to press and press out the bearings (bushings) that are inside the starter without hindrance!Summary:When should the starter be repaired?
Basically, the repair of this unit is everyone's business, so to speak, that is, someone wants to do this, and someone does not at all, that is, a person will go and buy himself a new starter, but nevertheless, in both of these situations, the question will arise, how to understand that that the starter does not work?Before analyzing this question, let's understand what the starter in the car is responsible for. As mentioned earlier, the starter is needed in order to start the car, so if the starter is faulty, the first problem that the car will have is that it will not start, when turning the key in the ignition, various kinds of clicks can occur, but the car will not start will. (In this case, this malfunction can be associated either with the solenoid relay, or with the brushes that are installed in the inside of the starter motor)

The next malfunction is associated with the copper contacts of the starter, it happens that these contacts burn out and, in connection with this, the starter starts to spin the car engine poorly, thereby your car starts up not in 1 second as it was before, but for example in 3-10 seconds, but maybe more, it all depends on how much the contacts are burnt.And the starter can just as badly spin the engine due to worn bushings, which are also located in the inside of the starter motor.And the last malfunction is when the starter itself is spinning, but at the same time it does not spin the engine at all. This malfunction can be caused due to the bendix, which you will need to change so that the engine starts to spin normally.Note!
For more information on how to check the starter for serviceability, you can find in the article entitled: "Checking the starter for serviceability"!Note!
Before proceeding with the repair, we note one important detail, this article on repair refers only to the starter model of which is "35.3708"!Disassembly:
1) At the beginning of the operation, unscrew the nut that is located closer to the starter motor with a wrench, and after unscrewing, remove the starter winding terminal from the pin of the contact bolt, removing the spring and two flat washers. Image - Do-it-yourself starter repair on a vaz

2) Then unscrew the three screws that secure the retractor relay to the cover, and after unscrewing, carefully remove the relay while holding its armature.

3) After you held the armature thus it did not budge, and the retractor relay was neatly disconnected from it, put the relay aside and grasp the armature thereby remove the spring from it.

4) Next, grasp the anchor with your hand and pull it straight up, and when it comes out of engagement with the lever that holds it, calmly remove the anchor from the cover and thereby completely remove it.

5) Now, when the anchor is removed, use a screwdriver to unscrew the two screws that secure the cover to the electric motor and then detach this cover and set it aside.

6) After the cover is removed, continue to hold the electric motor and then remove from its central part, first by prying the retaining ring of the shaft with a screwdriver, and then the washer indicated by the arrow.

7) Next, unscrew the two tightening bolts with a wrench and then, as shown in the photo in the upper corner, separate the cover together with the main motor, it is also called the rotor, from the body.

8) Then remove all screws (only one screw is shown in the photo) that hold the stator windings.

9) Next, look into the inside of the stator and remove the insulating tube from there.

10) Now, when the insulating tube is removed, separate the stator itself and the cover in which several stator elements remain, which will later need to be removed as well.

11) Then turn over the cover with the stator elements as shown in the figure, and after turning it over, remove the jumper from the brush holder.

12) Then remove all stator brushes and their springs using a screwdriver.

Note!
When the brushes are removed, check them with a caliper and if their height is less than 12 mm, then replace these brushes with new ones!

13) Next, take a mandrel of a suitable diameter in your hands and use it to press out the rear bearing, some also call this bearing a bushing.

14) Now again take the cover with the rotor in it in your hands and then use the pliers to remove the cotter pin of the axis of the drive lever.

Note!
When the axle pin is removed, remove the drive arm axle itself with a thin screwdriver!

15) Next, remove the rubber plug from the body.

16) And after removing the plug, use a screwdriver to disengage the shoulders with the recesses that are present on the coupling, and when the shoulders are disengaged, remove the anchor itself, or as it is also called the rotor together with the coupling.

17) Then remove the lever at the end of which there are the very shoulders that you previously removed from the engagement with the clutch.

18) Next, using a screwdriver as a lever, move the thrust washer ... (Continued in paragraph 19)

19) And immediately behind it, slide and thereby remove the retaining ring while expanding it with two screwdrivers.

20) Now on the rotor shaft, remove the clutch itself.

21) Further, when all the details such as an anchor, it is a rotor, etc. To be removed from the housing, lay the housing as shown in the figure and then press the front bearing out of it using a mandrel.

Assembly:
The starter is assembled in the reverse order of removal.

Note!
When reassembling, remember a few features, firstly, if traces of light burning are found on the armature collector, then use a grinding sandpaper to clean the surface of the armature collector from these traces of burning. When everything is cleaned, rinse the collector surface with gasoline or alcohol, and then blow this collector with compressed air so that all small skin and debris is completely removed from the collector surface!

And also when assembling the starter, lubricate the spline part, the shaft journal with engine oil, as well as the gear that is present on the clutch itself and the bushings that are present in the starter caps! (If you do not know where all these parts and all these places are located, then look at the bottom of the heading "Troubleshooting of starter parts", it says everything in detail)

And when the starter is assembled, then using a vernier caliper, check the axial clearance of the armature shaft, to do this, first pull out the shaft completely and write down the resulting value, and then push in this shaft and also write down the resulting value, after comparing these two values, you will get the axial clearance of the armature , which should be no more than 0.5 mm!

Note!
Before starting, I will immediately note the word "Troubleshooting" which was spelled out in the title just above. Not everyone knows what it is and why this is needed for starter parts, we explain. Fault finding - in essence, if you read this word, you can already understand what it is about, that is, the title of this entry is deciphered like this: "Finding defects among the starter parts", this is what we will do now!

1) After the starter is completely disassembled, the first thing to do is take the stator in your hands and first check the condition of its windings, which should be in good condition and which should not have burn marks. And also check both poles of the stator, which should not have mechanical damage, as well as cracks, etc.

Note!
The poles at the stator, this is essentially the part that is located inside the stator itself, for example, one of the poles in the photo just above is marked with red arrows and the other blue! (But the stator housing itself must also be checked, in which case replace the stator itself with a new one)

2) Next, inspect one of the covers for cracks, and also take a closer look at the bushing indicated by the arrow, its wear is also not allowed.

3) Now take the anchor itself in your hands and also inspect it for damage, bumps, scoring, pay special attention to the shaft splines (the slots are indicated by the arrow) and also pay attention to the trunnion that is present on the same shaft.

4) Next, check whether the anchor of the solenoid relay (indicated by the blue arrow in a disassembled state) moves easily, and also check with an ohmmeter whether the contact bolts (indicated by the red arrow) are closed by the contact plate. (For what is an ohmmeter, see the article entitled: "What is an ohmmeter")

5) After that, inspect the clutch for defects, the gear teeth of this clutch, which are indicated by the arrow, should not have strong wear.

6) And finally, inspect the starter drive lever, on which there should also be no cracks, as well as traces of significant wear of the forks grooves. (Grooves are slots, slots, and joints)

Additional video clip:
If you did not understand something from the written article, then watch the video clip in which the process of replacing the starter bushings is shown, while the starter is almost completely disassembled and everything is clearly very clear, in general, see:

The article describes in great detail with a photo accompaniment the process of repairing a starter on a VAZ 2110 car.In a new car, breakdowns and malfunctions in the starter are rare. But if the car has served for more than 5 years, then problems may arise. The car owner himself can determine the malfunction of the starter - the car does not start, uncharacteristic sounds when starting the engine, the starter turns off spontaneously.But many motorists do not pay attention to such signals from the car. And they bring the situation to the point that it is no longer possible to "save" the starter. But an experienced motorist who monitors his car, immediately, by the sound of a working car, will determine the malfunction of this part. So how do you fix a starter? Its repair takes place in several dozen stages described below.1. First, you need to remove the starter from the car. Now we proceed to disassemble the part.3. Disconnect the tire from the traction relay contact bolt.4. Carefully remove the two bolts that hold the traction relay.5. The traction relay must be removed from the starter.6. Set aside the starter itself and remove the armature from the traction relay. To do this, lift it up and the anchor loop is released from the lever.7. Now we return to the starter itself. Remove the tie rod nuts.8. The next step is to remove the cover from the drive end with the gearbox and the same assembly part.9. The cover must also be removed from the side of the collector with brushes and brush holders.10. Then remove the gear from the anchor shaft.11. Pull the anchor itself out of the starter.12. The anchor shaft has a washer on the drive side (pay special attention to this).13. Use a screwdriver or other thin object to remove the anchor shaft support.14. Then use a small screwdriver to remove the two tie rods from the starter cover. In general, it is not necessary to remove them, if you are in a hurry, you can leave them, however, it is more convenient to remove the drive and gearbox without these pins.15. Then remove the three gears of the reducer. A breakdown of the starter may consist precisely in the fact that these gears have damaged, broken teeth or needle bearings embedded in the gears. If this defect is present, then replace the parts and the starter will work again.16. But, if the gears are in order, then continue to disassemble and check the starter for damage further. It is necessary to remove the gearbox with the drive from the cover, after pressing on the gear of the starter drive.17. The support with the seal must be removed from the lever.

19. Use a hammer to knock the stop ring off the retaining ring using a suitable arbor.20. Carefully remove the retaining ring first and then the stop ring.21. Remove the actuator assembly from the drive shaft.22. Unscrew the lever retaining ring.23. Then remove the lever with washer and leash.24. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the spring of the lever.25. Now you can remove the lever from the liner, and separate the halves of the lever.26. Remove the meshing gear retaining ring.27. Next, disassemble the internal gear and remove the drive shaft support from the shaft.28. Carefully remove the o-ring from the pore. Examine it carefully. A damaged, deformed, hardened ring will adversely affect the operation of the entire starter. It must be replaced.29. The next step is to remove the insert from the support.30. From the side of the collector, unscrew the two screws and remove the brush holder.31. Using a screwdriver, pry off the brush clips.32. Then remove these clips and their hold-down springs. Again, replace deformed or damaged parts, heavily compressed or bent, broken springs.33. Pull the brushes out of the brush holder guides.34. Uninsulated brushes must be removed.35. Then remove the cardboard insulation strip. If it is damaged, compressed, torn, replace it with a new one.36. Remove the insulated brushes with connecting rails.37. Carefully and in detail inspect the anchor. Pay attention to the collector. 1. If the part is dirty, smoked, sand it with glass fine sandpaper.If traces of significant roughness are visible on it or mica protrudes strongly, grind the part on a lathe and then grind the collector with fine sandpaper. 2. If traces of yellow plaque from the bearing are visible on the anchor, then clean it with fine glass sandpaper, because later this can lead to jamming of the shaft gear. If there are dents or nicks on the surfaces of parts such as pins and shaft splines, replace the entire armature. Pay attention to the winding along the ends of the armature. If you see any flaws there, replace the anchor.3. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates. 38. Using a test lamp supplied with an alternating current of 220 V, check the condition of the armature winding. Connect the lamp voltage to the collector plate and the armature core. If everything is in order, the lamp should not be lit. If, nevertheless, it burns, then the anchor winding has closed. In this case, simply replace the starter armature with a new one.39. While holding the overrunning clutch, turn the starter gear in both directions: clockwise the gear should move absolutely freely, and should not rotate counterclockwise at all. If something is broken, replace the drive.40. Then put the starter drive onto the drive shaft. If everything is in order, then it should move freely, without jamming or stopping, along the splines of the shaft.41. If you see that the drive parts are badly worn, deformed, damaged, replace the drive. If you find nicks on the winding end of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained emery wheel. Choose a circle with a small diameter.42. Inspect the bushings in which the shafts rotate. They are installed in the starter cover on the drive side, on the manifold side, the armature and drive shaft support. If bushings are deformed or scored, replace covers or supports with broken bushings. Cracked covers and supports should also be replaced.43. Carefully inspect the starter itself, and if there are traces of anchor rubbing on it, replace the cover and intermediate support with a new one.44. Worn brushes up to the size between the working surface and the terminal less than 3.5 mm, replace.45. The brushes must move freely towards the brush holder. And the brush holder should not have cracks, chips, flaws. Check if this is so. If everything is in order, then proceed to the next stage of the repair. If there are faults, replace the parts.46. Begin inspection of the drive shaft. Its elements should not show signs of damage, severe wear and deformation. If there is plaque, remove it with fine glass sandpaper. Work carefully so as not to damage parts.47. Using an ohmmeter, check if the contact plate closes the traction relay contact bolts. If they do not close, replace the parts or simply repair the relay.48. To repair the relay:

1. Remove the two screws.

2. Unsolder the relay coils and terminals.

3. Then remove the cover and sand the pins and bolt heads with a sandpaper. The relay should be assembled in the reverse order.

49. Now proceed with the assembly of the starter. Before starting, lubricate the gear teeth with engine oil. Assemble the starter in reverse order.50. Install the brush holder into the starter separately from the cover on the collector side. To assemble and install this part, use a bushing with a diameter (mark 1) equal to the diameter of the manifold (approximately 30 millimeters).51. Install the assembled brush holder into the starter housing until it stops, then remove the bushing and install the cover on the starter from the collector side. The renovation is completed.