In detail: do-it-yourself repair of an uaz 469 starter from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The UAZ starter can be presented in the form of various units. These models have practically the same design. The geared starter has 4 poles and 4 brushes. It is attached to the crankcase with 2 studs.
For the UAZ starter, the torque does not exceed 1.6 kgf / m, and the rated power is 1.7 kW. The armature shaft has a clutch and a drive gear. The first element transmits torque in one direction - from the device in question to the motor.
The diagram allows you to find out whether the gear starter is working properly or not. As for the drive, its suitability is determined by visual inspection after the main unit has been disassembled. The condition of the brushes and the collector is checked in the same way. The first parts are replaced with new ones, and the second ones are degreased with gasoline.
Auto mechanics recommend that the gear starter be inspected periodically. Necessary:
check the condition of the clamps (they should not be dirty, and the fasteners should not be loose);
remove the casing and inspect the manifold (if necessary, troubleshoot);
open the cover, inspecting and cleaning the contacts;
tighten the fixing bolts of the main unit body;
remove the device in question to remove dirt.
It is recommended to carry out some maintenance work on the main unit every 32,000 km. This will require:
remove the gear starter from the motor;
check the collector and brushes (if the height of the last elements is less than 6 mm, then they are replaced);
disassembly of the starter (replacement of worn parts);
during the assembly process, bearings, bushings and other units are lubricated.
Video (click to play).
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Starter Solenoid Relay
If the armature does not rotate, then the starter is repaired. If there is no contact between the brushes and the manifold, then it will be necessary to dismantle the gear starter from the motor. Then it is disassembled and the cause of the malfunction is eliminated.
If there is no contact in the starter relay switch, then the wire is disconnected, the switch cover is removed from the terminals. Burnt contacts are cleaned. If there is a break in the connections inside the device itself, it is recommended to take it to an auto repair shop. Lack of voltage when the starter is on provides for the replacement of the ignition switch.
With a broken winding or burnt contacts in the relay, the circuit is checked in the same way as in the previous version. The lamp is connected to the "K" terminal. If it does not light, then you will need to disassemble the relay and clean the contacts. If the armature gets stuck in the bushing of the coil, the first element (with relay and bushing) is cleaned of dirt. The absence of a positive result provides for the delivery of the starter for repair to an auto repair shop.
If, when the main unit is turned on, the crankshaft of the motor does not rotate completely or partially, then we can say:
malfunction or discharged battery, the battery is checked (if necessary, it is replaced);
the presence of a short circuit in the armature or coil, the short circuit is eliminated or the unit is referred for repair;
about tight cranking of the engine crankshaft, in the cold season the engine warms up;
that due to a weak tightening of the tips, the power circuit of the device in question may be disrupted, in this case the clamps are tightened;
about severe wear of bearings, it is necessary to return the starter for repair.
If there is no contact in the clamps (especially for the battery), then the corresponding bolts are checked and tightened. If the battery is faulty or discharged, then it will need to be charged or replaced. Poor contact of the winding or its faulty condition requires replacing this element or ensuring reliable contact. Often, after starting the motor, the gear starter does not turn off.This phenomenon can occur when the drive is jammed and in the case of baking of the relay switch contacts. In this case, repair work is carried out.
UAZ car owners often observe the jamming of the obturator of the ignition system switch. As a result, the starter turns off automatically when the vehicle is moving. In this case, it is recommended to replace the switch. You can do this with your own hands or with the help of professionals. It is recommended that the starter be sent to a repaired car repair shop.
Disassemble the starter in the following order:
Unscrew the nut 26 (see Fig. 261) and disconnect the output from the contact bolt 14.
Remove the screws 28 securing the traction relay to the drive-side cover and remove the relay.
Unscrew the nuts 24 on the tie rods.
Unscrew the two screws 25 and remove the cap.
Remove the lock 12 and adjusting 11 washers.
Remove the cover 13 from the manifold side.
Remove the brushes 8 from the brush holders and remove the traverse 9.
Remove the housing 7.
Unscrew the nut securing the lever shaft, unscrew the lever shaft 31 and remove the lever 29.
Remove the armature 6 with the drive assembly from the cover on the drive side.
Move the thrust ring 3 to the left, remove the lock ring 4 from the shaft, and then the drive 5.
To inspect the traction relay contacts, unscrew two screws 23, unsolder two inputs 27 and remove the relay cover 16.
1-cover on the drive side; 2-driver ring; 3-point ring; 4-lock ring; 5-drive; 6-anchor; 7-case; 8-brush; 9-traverse; 10-thrust washer; 11-adjusting washer; 12-lock washer; 13-cover from the side of the collector; 14-pin bolt; 15-pin plate; 16-relay cover; 17-return spring; 18-stock; 19-anchor relay; 20-compensating spring; 21-buffer spring; 22-gear; 23-screw М5х14; 24-nut tie rod; 25-screw М6х16; 26-nut М8; 27-input of relay coils; 28-screw М6х30; 29-lever; 30-nut М8; 31-axis lever
Thoroughly clean the parts from dirt. Inspect and check the parts and assemblies of the starter. Replace damaged parts.
Using a special device or a test lamp connected to the AC mains, check if there is no short circuit of the field coils to the case.
When checking with a test lamp, connect it to the body and the terminal located on the body (Fig. 288). If the lamp is on, this indicates damage to the insulation of the field winding coils. In this case, number the poles of the coils, unscrew the pole fixing screws and remove the field coils. Wrap the damaged areas of insulation with insulating molding. Then put the poles and coils back in place. Tighten the pole screws.
Rice. 288. Checking the short circuit of the field winding coils to the case
Using a special device or a test lamp, check for a short circuit of the insulated brush holders to the body (Fig. 289). If short, replace the insulating gasket and the bushing of the brush holder rivets. The brushes in the brush holders must move freely, without jamming. Check the condition of the bearing bush in the cover and replace if worn. The hole diameter of the new bushing after pressing and reaming should be 12.5 + 0.035 mm with a surface roughness of class 8. Replace brushes if the height is less than 6-7 mm.
Rice. 289. Checking the closure of insulated brush holders to the body
Check the condition of the bushing (bearing) in the cover and, if worn, replace the bushing. The hole diameter of the new bushing after pressing and reaming should be 12.5 + 0.035 mm with a surface roughness of class 8.
Check with a special device or a test lamp if there is a short circuit of the rotor winding on the rotor iron sheet. To do this, connect one end to either of the rotor blades and the other to the rotor iron bag. In this case, the lamp should not light up (fig. 290).
Rice. 290. Checking the closure of the rotor winding on the iron package of the rotor
Examine the rotor carefully. The front part of the rotor winding should be smaller in diameter than the iron pack. The increased diameter of the portion of the winding in front of it indicates the "spacing" of the winding. Replace such a rotor.The ends of the winding wires must be securely soldered to the collector terminals.
Check for short circuits between the turns of the rotor. If a short is found, replace the rotor.
The rotor manifold must be clean. In case of significant roughness of the collector or protrusion of mica, grind it on a lathe or special machine. After grooving, grind the manifold with 100 grit glass sandpaper to a surface roughness of grade 7.
The runout of the collector relative to the shaft journals should not exceed 0.05 mm. The runout of the rotor iron pack relative to the shaft journals should not exceed 0.25 mm. At the same time, check for shaft deflection, as deflection can cause the drive to jam on the spline of the shaft. If there is a yellow coating from the bearing on the rotor shaft in the place where the starter gear rotates, then it should be removed with a fine sandpaper. The presence of yellow plaque often leads to the gear sticking on the shaft after starting the engine and to the displacement of the rotor winding.
Inspect the starter drive from the outside and check for slippage. The drive must move freely, without jamming, along the spline part of the shaft. If the bushings (bearings) of the drive are heavily worn, replace them.
While holding the rotor, the gear should rotate clockwise freely. Counterclockwise, the gear should only rotate with the rotor. Check the freewheel clutch for slipping at the stand when testing the starter for full braking.
Check the serviceability of the retractor and retaining windings with an ohmmeter or by measuring the resistance with a voltmeter and ammeter. If the windings are faulty, replace the traction relay. Clean the contacts on the terminal bolts, and if they are severely burned out, turn the bolts 180 degrees. around the axis. If the contact disc is heavily worn, turn it with the unworn side to the contacts.
The traction relay armature must move freely in the housing.
Assemble the starter in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following:
Lubricate the bearings, pins and spline with engine oil before assembly.
Assemble the starter rotor assembly, for which put on the rotor shaft an intermediate bearing, drive 5 (see Fig. 261) and a thrust assembly consisting of thrust 3 and locking 4 rings. For the convenience of installing the lock ring, use a mandrel.
Install thrust washer 10 on the rotor from the manifold side.
When final tightening the body capscrews, align the pins and grooves on the covers and body.
Check the axial clearance of the rotor, which should be approximately 0.8 mm.
After assembly, check and adjust the starter.
Since the section on repairing UAZ has just opened, it needs to be updated. So sorry, it's a tech article again today! I decided to quietly study the components of the UAZ car. The most difficult of them, as for me, are the components of the ignition system. I decided to start with the UAZ starter. So, what wise sites tell us ...
A starter 42.3708 or 4211.3708-01 with an electromagnetic traction relay and a lever drive with a roller freewheel clutch is installed on the left side of the engine (in the direction of the vehicle). The starter connection diagram is shown in the second picture.
Direction of rotation ... ..clockwise Rated voltage, V… ..12 Power (when powered by a storage battery with a capacity of 60 (Ah), kW (hp) ... 1.2 (1.65) Idling at 20 ° C: consumed current A, no more ... ..75 voltage at the starter terminals, V, no more ... ..12 Rotor speed, min -1, not less ... ..5000 Full braking at 20 ° C: braking torque, kgf · m ... ..1.6 ± 0.16 consumed current, A, no more ... ..520 voltage at the starter terminals, V, no more ... .. 7
1. Check the condition of the clamps, making sure they are not dirty or loose. 2. Remove the protective cover and inspect the manifold, repair if necessary. 3. Open the cover 13 (see the first picture) from the side of the collector, inspect and, if necessary, clean the contact surfaces, then blow it with compressed air. 4. Tighten the starter housing pinch bolts if necessary. 5. Check the attachment of the starter to the clutch housing. 6. When operating the vehicle in severe conditions, remove the starter to clean the drive and freewheel from dirt.
1. Remove the starter from the engine. 2. Check the condition of the collector and brushes. Make sure the brushes do not jam in the brush holders. If the brushes are less than 6 mm high, replace them. 3. Disassemble the starter. Replace worn parts. 4. When assembling, lubricate the bearings and shaft journals with engine oil. Slightly grease the spline part of the shaft, drive branch bushings, pins and the axis of the lever with Litol-24 grease
When I was looking for why the starter might not work, I found just such a picture from the manual for UAZ cars.
Yesterday I scored to work and went to the garage to pick up the UAZ! After another underwater ambush, the starter began to turn badly, the first impression was as if the battery was dying because the voltmeter began to show only 12 volts when charging! and when starting up, the arrow fell to 8 in. But I didn't really believe this sensor and took the tester in my hands! Charging turned out to be more than normal, at full load (4 tumanki, distant, 2 stoves, etc.) 13.5 volts! The voltage drop without charging is not large, so it's not about the power supply! I decided to make an audit of the starter on the advice of experienced! Took off the starter
The brushes are quite lively but soured and did not reach the anchor! Therefore, he twisted it barely as it was completely sluggish!
