Do-it-yourself VAZ 1111 starter repair scheme

Structurally, the starter of the Oka car does not have serious differences from its more powerful counterparts, which means that in case of problems with this unit, there is every chance to repair the starter of the eye with your own hands. It should be said that the failures of the VAZ 1111/11113 starter have been studied quite well and most of their malfunctions are associated with the failure of the retractor relay, the brush holder (and the brushes themselves, as such), as well as the bushings. As a rule, the repair of these elements is much cheaper than buying a new unit, and it can be done in a personal garage.

The most common reason for the failure of the solenoid relay is burning of the terminals and contact bolts of the power circuit. In this case, after disassembling the relay, the contacts are cleaned with fine emery cloth or replaced with new ones.

Sometimes the seizure of the relay armature occurs due to the appearance of severe corrosion, after removing the rust and applying grease, the problem is eliminated.

On this starter model, the brushes wear out very quickly. When replacing them, you have to additionally grind the collector, which, in turn, is quite difficult to replace separately, since the leads of the armature winding are recessed into the grooves of the collector and pressed in.

At home, it is almost impossible to cope with anchor malfunctions. When detecting turn-to-turn closures, winding burnout, sintering of lamellas and mechanical damage to the collector, rewinding and balancing of the armature is required - which not every motorist can do. In this case, the game is not worth the candle and it is much easier and cheaper to purchase a new part. It is also recommended to change the armature when carrying out preventive maintenance of the starter after long-term operation. Together with the armature, the brushes should be replaced, otherwise, the old brushes with their worn edges can damage the surface of the collector.

If damage to the magnets is detected, then depending on the model, the repair of the eye starter is carried out in different ways. If the magnets were initially glued, then they are changed along with the glass body. If they can be removed, then they are changed separately. When replacing magnets, one should not forget that they, quite often, are supplied in a "raw" state and must be magnetized on special equipment before installation.

When the bushings and bearings are triggered, they are replaced in pairs. In this situation, you should not save money - replacing parts separately can lead to the curvature of the armature with the subsequent failure of the entire unit.

Starter VAZ 1111 OKA (made in Elektromash) 391.3708 / 586.3708 VAZ 1111 “Oka” ATTENTION: the product may contain the catalog number 586.3708 that Code: Amortik - online auto parts store.

Interchangeability of VAZ-1111 and VAZ-11113 starters https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1665/?id=forumtopic&topic=9077 Is it possible to replace the VAZ-11113 starter with the VAZ-1111 starter. All forum topics on the topic: Oka. ... Is there or was the forum a topic "Interchangeability of VAZ-1111 and VAZ-11113 starters" ....

VAZ-1111- "OKA" STARTER " STARTER Starter type 39.3708 is a four-brush DC electric motor with mixed excitation and with an electromagnetic two-winding traction relay. STARTER.

Starter repair - VAZ Oka (1111) https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3201/model/vaz_oka/183/VAZ-1111-11113 OKA. … 1. Unscrew the nut of the lower contact bolt of the starter traction relay… 2.… remove the washer and disconnect the tip of the stator winding outlet.

Oka - Auto parts - Starter bendix of the VAZ-1111 (OKA) car.Spare parts / accessories ”Auto parts. ... Zaporozhye, Khortitsky. July 13. The starter is okay new.

VAZ 1111 | Starter | Oka https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/149/vaz-1111/vaz-34978-10.m_id-4478.m_id2-4480.html service Alarms, etc. systems Tuning a car Tires and disks. 10.3.4 Starter. Guides? WHA? 1111 (Oka).

Starter repair. VAZ 1111 (Oka) https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3205/vaz/1111-oka/8-2-8-remont-startera.html1111 (Oka). 1. Description of the car. … 8.2.6. Adjusting the tension of the alternator drive belt. 8.2.7. Starter. 8.2.8. Starter repair. 8.3. Ignition system.

Removing and replacing a starter on a VAZ Oka 1111. https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/950/video/kak-snyat-starter-na-oke-2864 When removing an old or installing a new Oka starter, DO NOT forget about the bushing that may remain either inside in box, or at the end of an old anchor! ... VAZ Oka (1111) Oka does not start hot.

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Maintenance, device, repair and operation ... 1111/11113 Lada Oka >> 7.Electrical equipment >> Starter >> Starter repair. … New complete set of LADA Priora. AvtoVAZ spoke about the launch of new versions of LADA Priora, which differ in a different set of options.

1 - cover on the drive side
2 - drive gear
3 - anchor shaft
4 - frame
5 - cover from the side of the collector
6 - traction relay

1. Remove the nut of the lower contact bolt of the starter traction relay.

2. ... remove the washer and disconnect the stator winding lead-out lug.

3. Remove the two nuts securing the starter traction relay (one shown).

4. Remove the traction relay from the drive end cover.

5. Remove the traction relay armature from the drive end cover, disengaging it from the drive arm.

6. Remove the drive arm stop by prying it with a screwdriver.

7. Remove the two tie bolts and.

8. ... remove the shroud from the manifold side cover.

9. Remove the casing gasket.

10. Remove the brush springs from the brush holder.

11. Remove the lock washer from the shaft of the starter armature and.

13. Separate the starter housing and the manifold side cover (if you cannot do this by hand, use a screwdriver).

14. Remove the insulated brushes from the brush holder and.

15. ... remove the starter cover from the manifold side.

16. Remove the spacer washer from the armature shaft.

17. Remove the cotter pin securing the axis of the starter drive lever and.

18. ... remove the axle from the drive end cover.

19. Remove the drive end cover.

20. Remove the starter drive lever.

21. Remove the starter armature from the housing.

22. Slide the stop ring off the retaining ring.

23. Remove the circlip and stop ring from the armature shaft.

24. Remove the starter drive clutch assembly from the armature shaft.

25. Remove the spring from the traction relay.

26. Remove the insulating bracket to replace the brushes.

27. ... heat the junction of the insulated brushes with the stator lead with a soldering iron and, using a screwdriver, open the bend of the stator lead.

28. ... remove the insulated brushes.

29. Remove the screws securing the bar ends of the non-insulated brushes and remove the brushes from the manifold side cover.

30. Check the condition of the stator winding. To do this, turn on the test lamp (rated for a voltage of 220 V) into an alternating current with a voltage of 220 V and connect one wire to one of the terminals of the stator winding, the other - short to the case. If the lamp is on, the winding insulation is damaged. Replace winding or stator. Also check the other stator winding. Be careful when testing with 220V. Do not touch live parts of the stator with your hands.

31. Inspect the armature shaft bearing surfaces. If you find a yellow coating from the bearings on the armature shaft, remove it with a fine sandpaper. There should be no damage on the surface of the shaft splines (scoring, nicks, chipping of teeth and visible signs of wear).

32. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates.

33. The starter cover gasket must not be damaged (breaks, cracks, etc.).

34. Check the starter drive by turning the gear (it should only rotate in one direction). If the drive parts are badly worn or damaged, replace the drive. If you find nicks on the lead-in part of the teeth, grind them with a fine-grained small-diameter wheel.

35. Check the condition of the traction relay armature spring. Replace the broken spring.

36. The starter pinch bolts must not have severe damage to the threads and heads.

37. Check the condition of the starter cover on the drive end. Cracks are not allowed.

38. Inspect the surface of the traction relay armature. Deep risks and seizures are not allowed. the armature should move in the traction relay easily, without jamming.

39. The starter lever forks must not be bent.

40. Check the condition of the starter brushes by measuring their height. It must be at least 12 mm.

41. Check the closure of the traction relay contact bolts with the plate. To do this, connect an ohmmeter to the contact bolts and push the rod of the traction relay (from the flange side). If the ohmmeter reads “infinity”, replace the traction relay.

42. Check the condition of the inner surface of the traction relay. Risks, bullies, etc. not allowed.

Assemble the starter in the reverse order to disassembly, taking into account the following features.

43. Clean the surface of the starter armature manifold.

44. Lubricate the splined part of the armature shaft with engine oil.

45. ... manifold-side cover sleeve bearing and.

46.... starter drive sliding surface.

47. Press in the stop ring after installing the stop ring on the armature shaft.

48. Lubricate the drive ring of the starter drive with Litol-24 grease.

You will need: a key "8", a screwdriver, an electric soldering iron.

1. Remove the nut of the lower contact bolt of the starter traction relay.

2.. remove the washer and disconnect the stator winding lead-out lug.

3. Remove the two nuts securing the starter traction relay (one shown).

4. Remove the traction relay from the drive end cover.

5. Remove the traction relay armature from the drive end cover, disengaging it from the drive arm.

6. Remove the drive arm stop by prying it off with a screwdriver.

7. Remove the two tie bolts and.

eight. . remove the shroud from the manifold side cover.

9. Remove the casing gasket.

10. Remove the brush springs from the brush holder.

11. Remove the lock washer from the starter armature shaft and.

13. Disconnect the starter housing and the manifold side cover, remove the insulated brushes from the brush holder and.

14. . remove the starter cover from the manifold side.

Use a screwdriver if you cannot separate the case and cover by hand.

15. Remove the spacer washer from the armature shaft.

16. Remove the cotter pin securing the axis of the starter drive lever and.

17.. remove the axle from the drive end cover.

18. Remove the drive end cover.

19. Remove the starter drive lever.

20. Remove the starter armature from the housing.

21. Slide the stop ring off the retaining ring.

22. Remove the retaining ring and then the stop ring from the armature shaft.

23. Remove the starter drive clutch assembly from the armature shaft.

24. Remove the spring from the traction relay.

25. Remove the insulating bracket to replace the brushes.

26. heat the junction of the insulated brushes with the stator lead with a soldering iron and, by loosening the bend of the stator lead with a screwdriver, remove the insulated brushes.

27. Remove the uninsulated brush bar end cap screws and remove the brushes from the manifold side cover.

28. Check the condition of the stator winding. To do this, turn on the test lamp (rated for a voltage of 220 V) into an alternating current with a voltage of 220 V and connect one wire to one of the terminals of the stator winding, the other - short to the case. If the lamp is on, the winding insulation is damaged. Replace winding or stator. Also check the other stator winding.

Be careful when testing with 220V. Do not touch live parts of the stator with your hands.

The stator windings can be checked with a megger. Connect one contact to the terminal and the other to the stator housing. The resistance of the windings must be at least 10 kOhm. If it is less, replace the stator.

29. Inspect the armature shaft bearing surfaces. If you find a yellow coating from the bearings on the armature shaft, remove it with a fine sandpaper. There should be no damage on the surface of the shaft splines (scoring, nicks, chipping of teeth and visible signs of wear).

30. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates. Inspect the winding at the ends of the armature: the diameter of the winding should be less than the iron package of the armature. If the diameter is larger, replace the anchor.

31. The starter casing gasket must not be damaged (breaks, cracks, etc.).

32. While holding the overrunning clutch, try to turn the starter gear in both directions: it should rotate freely only clockwise. If the gear turns in both directions, replace the drive. If the drive parts are badly worn or damaged, replace the drive. If you find nicks on the lead-in part of the teeth, grind them with a fine-grained small-diameter wheel.

33. Check the condition of the traction relay armature spring. Replace the broken spring.

34. Tightening bolts of the starter must not have severe damage to the threaded part and heads.

35. Check the condition of the starter cover on the drive end. Cracks are not allowed.

36. Inspect the surface of the traction relay armature. Deep risks and seizures are not allowed. The armature should move easily in the traction relay, without jamming.

37. The forks of the starter drive lever must not be bent.

38. Check the condition of the starter brushes by measuring their height. It must be at least 12 mm.

39. Check the closure of the traction relay contact bolts with a plate. To do this, connect an ohmmeter to the contact bolts and push the rod of the traction relay (from the flange side). If the ohmmeter shows "Ґ", replace the traction relay.

40. Check the condition of the inner surface of the traction relay. Risks, bullies, etc. not allowed.

41. Inspect the bushing pressed into the clutch housing. If the bushing is worn out or has scuffs, pits, etc., replace the bushing.

The bushing is located in a blind hole in the clutch housing and is therefore difficult to access. To remove the bushing, screw a suitable size tap into the bushing until it stops at the bottom of the hole, as if cutting a thread in the bushing. With further rotation of the tap, the sleeve will be pressed out of the hole.

Assemble the starter in the reverse order to disassembly, taking into account the following features.

Like any internal combustion engine of passenger cars, the power units of the Oka car of modifications 1111, 11113 are started using a starter - a power electric motor with remote control. The task of this unit is to untwist the crankshaft in order to create the necessary conditions for the ignition of the air-fuel mixture.

The designers did not borrow a starter from other VAZ models for the purpose, but made a new one - for Oka engines. The inability to unify starters for the owners of this small car often turns into problems, since the "native" starter is not a particularly reliable unit.

It is noteworthy that at Oka, power motors were produced by several manufacturers. The most common is the assembly with the factory index 39.3708 (from the Samara plant KZATE), which we will consider in the future. Also, the VAZ-1111 was equipped with Belarusian-made components (1111-3708010-5) and Slovenian ones - AZE-1517.

The main characteristics of model 39.3708 are as follows:

• Power - 0.9 kW;
• Consumption current - 230A;
• Weight - 5 kg;

This unit is mounted on the left side of the engine (in the direction of travel) above the gearbox, and above it is the thermostat housing. The fixation is carried out with only two fasteners - a bolt and a nut, with which the starter is attracted to the clutch housing.This arrangement is convenient in that you can dismantle the unit from the car without removing anything additionally.

The starter on "Oka" is a collector DC electric motor. Its main components are:

• Stator with field windings;
• Brush holder (brush unit) with 4 graphite brushes;
• Anchor;
• Bendix (drive gear with freewheel clutch);
• Solenoid relay with drive plug;
• Covers;

All elements are assembled into a single structure and fixed with tie bolts.

The stator is due to the passage of e-mail. energy through its windings, provides the emergence of an electromagnetic field. The second magnetic field is created by the armature winding. An electric current is supplied to it through the graphite brushes to the collector, to the plates of which the ends of the armature winding are soldered. The magnetic fields generated around the windings cause the armature to rotate.

On one side of the armature shaft, slots are made, on which a bendix is ​​set, consisting of a gear and an overrunning clutch. Bendix has the ability to move along the shaft, while due to the spline connection, rotation is transmitted to it.

The bendix gear is designed to engage with the crankshaft flywheel and transfer rotary motion to it. By default, the gear is not meshed with the flywheel and there is no interaction between the engine and the power electric motor.

The task of the overrunning clutch is to interrupt the transmission of rotation after starting the power unit. Even at minimum speeds, the crankshaft rotation speed is higher than the starter speed, therefore, after starting the engine, a reverse rotation transfer is performed - from the flywheel to the el. engine (until the gear is disengaged), which significantly reduces the life of the starter. To prevent this negative effect, the gear does not interact with the armature shaft directly, but through a roller clutch consisting of two clips and rollers placed between them.

The essence of the clutch is as follows: while the rotation speed of the starter armature is higher than the flywheel (the engine is not running), the rollers "jam" the clips between themselves, thereby transferring the rotation to the gear. As soon as the engine starts and the flywheel accelerates, one of the clips is displaced relative to the second and the rollers "wedge", thereby interrupting the transmission of rotation from the gear to the armature.

The movement of the bendix along the splines of the shaft is carried out by a retractor relay installed on the starter housing. Also, this node is "responsible" for supplying electricity to the windings of the electric motor.

The peculiarity of the starter is that first the gear is engaged, and only after that the electric motor turns on. And all this is provided by the solenoid relay.

Solenoid relay - located on the starter

The relay consists of a case with windings located inside, a contact disc and power contacts ("pyataks"), as well as an armature engaging with a plug interacting with the bendix.

The starter's power supply from the on-board network is as follows: a large cross-section wire is laid from the positive terminal of the battery to one of the contacts of the solenoid relay. From the second contact of the relay there is a bus to the brush holder and stator windings. This circuit is the main one for powering the electric motor, but there is a break in the relay in it, which excludes a constant supply of current to the windings.

From the same "positive" terminal there is another wiring going through an additional relay, ignition switch and leading to the solenoid relay. The purpose of this circuit is to power the relay coils.

To turn on the starter, the driver must set the key in the lock to position "2". Thus, it closes the power supply circuit of the solenoid relay, and the current flows to its windings. As a result, a magnetic field arises, which leads to the movement of the relay armature - it is "drawn" into the case.

Moving inside the body, the armature pulls the fork along with it, and it displaces the bendix along the slots of the armature shaft, engaging the gearwheel with the flywheel.

At the same time, the armature pushes the rod on which the contact disc is fixed. Having reached the stop, this disk is pressed against the “nickels” of the power contacts, as a result of which the power supply circuit is closed. engine, and it begins to rotate, while the gear will already be in mesh.

After starting the Oka motor, the clutch is triggered, preventing reverse rotation.

Returning the key to position "1", the driver opens the relay supply circuit, the return spring "pushes" the armature. Moving back, it stops acting on the rod of the contact disk, due to which the power supply circuit is opened. engine. At the same time, the armature pushes the fork, and it disengages the bendix.

Malfunctions of the Oka starter, as well as of the power electric motors of a car, are divided into two categories - mechanical and electrical. The first includes:

• Wear of the armature bearing bushings;
• Damage to the gear teeth;
• Jamming of the solenoid relay armature;
• Development of the splines of the armature shaft;

The most common mechanical failure is the wear of the bearing bushings, which subsequently becomes the cause of other breakdowns. Due to significant wear of the bushings, the position of the armature is violated, and, accordingly, the bendix. As a result, it is more difficult for the gear to engage, the rate of wear of the teeth increases, and their crumbling is possible.

Electrical faults include:

• Breakage of the stator windings, armature, retractor relay;
• Strong wear of the collector plates;
• Critical brush wear;
• Closing the windings;
• Burning up "pyataks" of power contacts;

Problems with the motor and relay power circuits can also be added to this category of breakdowns.

Oka starter malfunctions manifest themselves in different ways:

• The starter does not turn on, there are no additional sounds;
• The activation of the solenoid relay is audible, but the electric motor does not turn;
• The starter turns, but picks up speed;
• Third-party sounds are heard when switching on (crunching, grinding);

With such signs, the unit should be repaired.

The first step in the repair is to determine where the breakdown occurred - in the power circuit or the node itself. This is done simply:

• We immobilize the car with a handbrake, install it at the checkpoint "neutral";
• We open the hood. From the side of the thermostat, we find the starter;
• On the retractor relay we find the power contacts (two studs with nuts, to which the wiring is suitable);
• We take a screwdriver with an insulated handle and close the contacts between ourselves;

If, after a short circuit, the electric motor starts to turn, the fault should be looked for in the solenoid relay and its power supply circuit. In the case when, after the described procedure, the electric motor does not start or will work, but without developing speed, or third-party sounds occur when triggered, the unit will have to be dismantled from the car.

Removing the starter on the "Oka" - the operation is not difficult due to the relatively convenient location. The work algorithm is as follows:

• We remove one of the terminals from the battery;
• We unscrew the nuts of the power contacts in order to remove the wiring from the studs (2 keys should be used - one to hold the inner nut, and the second to unscrew the outer);
• We remove the tips of the wires;
• We unscrew the starter fasteners (it is fixed with the 1st bolt and the 1st nut on the hairpin);
• We remove the starter;

Further, disassembly and diagnostics of the unit are already being performed.

First, the body of the solenoid relay is dismantled, for which you need to unscrew two nuts. When dismantling the case, the relay armature will remain in place, since it is hooked onto the plug with a lug. If necessary, we also remove the anchor.

To disassemble the electric motor itself, we unscrew the two tie bolts, after which it will be possible to remove the back cover and pull the brush holder off the collector. After that, you can remove the stator housing with the winding.

For further disassembly, remove the retaining ring from the front of the anchor shaft and take out the anchor.It remains only to pull out the fork axle and remove it together with the bendix.

Mechanical faults can be identified visually by carefully examining each component. If traces of strong wear or damage are found, the part should be replaced.

As for electrical faults, they can only be detected by ringing the windings. It is best to consult an experienced electrician for this check.

After repair, the starter is assembled in the reverse order. Before installing on a car, it is advisable to check the node. To do this, we connect it directly to the battery.

One of the significant disadvantages of the starter on the Oka is the absence of the so-called "dome". In those nodes where it is, the "dome" acts as the second anchor point for the anchor. In "Oka", due to the absence of this component, the second support for the shaft is a depression in the engine block. The support sleeve is also installed in it. Therefore, in case of wear of the bushings - and this is the most common malfunction, their replacement becomes a serious problem for the owner.

OKA starter catalog number: 391.3708 - if you decide to put the same one.

One of the options for solving problems with bushings is to install a starter on the Oka from another car. As a replacement, you can use the VAZ-2110 starter, which has a "dome".

But in order to install a "ten" starter, you will have to perform certain modifications of the unit itself, as well as the clutch housing, for which you will have to remove not only the starter from the car, but also disassemble the transmission - remove the gearbox, clutch and dismantle the clutch housing.

To install the VAZ-2110 starter on the "Oka" you need to use a shlif. machines to grind the surface of the "dome", thereby reducing its diameter. You will also have to cut the mounting lugs.

In the crankcase, on the inside, you need to cut out a partition and grind the surfaces adjacent to the bore.

All these improvements are aimed at ensuring that the new unit fully "sits" in the crankcase hole.

Some craftsmen, instead of a "native" starter, even installed a knot from the VAZ of the classic family, the same VAZ-2106, on the Oka. But in this case, the improvements were essential, since the starter from the "classics" is more dimensional. The installation issue in this case was solved by using an adapter plate.

The same motorists who have no desire to alter something, in order to eliminate the anchor backlash, will have to change the bushings.

The dimensions of which: thickness 2 mm, int. diameter - 10mm, outside - 14mm.

There will be no problems with the internal, since it is installed in the back cover and it is not difficult to get it after removing and disassembling the starter. But the bushing, which is installed in a recess in the block, is problematic to get.

There are several options for extracting it:

• Screw a tap of the appropriate size into it;
• Drill out;
• Squeeze out with grease;

If everything is clear with the first two methods, then the third should be considered in more detail. The method is based on the property of a liquid not to compress.

The extrusion technology is quite interesting - we select a rod that exactly matches the diameter of the bushing hole. Next, fill the sleeve completely with grease (for example, "Solidol"). Then we insert the rod into the hole and hammer it inside. Due to compression, "Solidol" will penetrate under the sleeve and begin to squeeze it out.

After removing the worn out bushing, we put it in place with a new one, after which it remains only to put the starter in place.