DIY VAZ 21043 starter repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 21043 starter from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The starter relay engages the drive gear with the flywheel, driving the main assembly. The VAZ 2105 starter relay is activated in a similar way. The mechanism is fixed with 3 bolts. The body of this unit and its cover are tightened with 2 bolts.

Repair of the VAZ 21053 starter is carried out by hand or with the help of auto mechanics in the event of failure of various units. The enable relay may not work (it does not turn the starter) for the following reasons:

the battery is discharged,
the wires are oxidized or the tips are loosely tightened,
short circuit in the coil of the VAZ starter switch relay,
open circuit,
the anchor is seized.

Multiple operation of the VAZ 2105 unit in question and its shutdown are associated with the following reasons:

the battery is discharged,
wires are strongly oxidized,
open or short circuit in the winding.

If the starter does not turn, you will need to disassemble it. An important point is to check the VAZ 21053 turn-on relay. To do this, you need to install a gasket between the ring and the gear, the thickness of which is 12.8 mm. Then the starter relay turns on. The normal voltage indicator is 9 V at a temperature of (20 ± 5) ° С. If the values obtained do not correspond to the norm, the VAZ 2105 starter relay will need to be replaced with a new one.

If the car is equipped with an ST-221 starter with a single-winding traction relay, the current consumption is checked. This figure should not exceed 23 A.

The starter does not turn or its mechanical data deviated from the norm, the VAZ 21053 switch-on relay broke, the armature failed - all these and some other reasons indicate the need for repair work. When checking mechanical performance, follow these steps.

Video (click to play).

Measure the pressure of the springs on the brushes with a dynamometer. For new units, this figure should be equal to 9.8 ± 0.98 N. If the value for worn ones reaches 12 mm, the parts are replaced with new ones.
Move the VAZ 2105 starter drive along the spline end to make sure how freely it moves. It is important to return it clearly from the operating position to its original position under the influence of the armature spring of the closing relay.
In the case of turning the gear to the anchor, the last element must be in place.

Back to the table of contents

When the starter does not turn or the starter relay is out of order, these parts will need to be replaced. The process of replacing the starter is carried out using the key to "10". It turns off the lower bolt that secures the heat shield. The key on "13" is used to twist the flap fastening nuts, after which it is removed. Using the same key, the starter fixing bolts are unscrewed. The VAZ 2105 starter moves forward. Further, the block is disconnected from the output of the traction relay. After disconnecting the wires from the last unit to the battery, the main part is dismantled.

The new equipment is installed in the reverse order. When installing, great attention should be paid to securely fixing the power wire of the VAZ 21053 starter relay. Disassembly of this unit is considered a difficult process. This will require keys for "13" and "10". After unscrewing 3 screws, the starter relay is removed. The stem and spring are pulled out of the body of the part. For the subsequent disassembly of the starter, a Phillips screwdriver is used. With its help, the screws are loosened and the cover is removed. The condition of the brushes can be checked after removing them.

When parsing the part under consideration, special attention is paid to the isolation of free winding leads. After removing the retaining ring, it will be necessary to dismantle the insulating tubes. At the same time, the condition of all windings and the VAZ 2105 collector is visually checked.If the last element heats up slightly, the plates are sanded with a sandpaper. In case of strong heating, the armature is replaced.

The next step is to remove the rubber seal and remove the shim. The assembly process involves the installation of this element in its place. The anchor is removed together with the drive. When removing the lever, you need to take into account that the gear must rotate freely in a certain direction. The worn part is replaced with a new one.

The assembly of the assembly is carried out in the reverse order. The stopper is pushed onto the shaft towards the stopper ring. To do this, use a hammer and a key to "14". An important point is blowing dust out of the VAZ 21053 starter. Litol-24 or grease No. 158 is used to lubricate the parts. The following parts are lubricated with engine oil:

Auto mechanics recommend that you insert the bolts into the desired holes before the assembly process. When insulating the first bolt, the corresponding pipe is slid over the element that touches the copper bus. The problem due to which the starter does not turn is recommended to be solved as soon as possible.

VAZ 21043 (2104). Dima Kornєєv. Subscribe Repair of the starter VAZ 2104 in the garage

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Auto electrician. //strong>//my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1717.ua/search?ie=UTF-8hl=ruq=%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%BC%D0%BE % D0% BD% D1% 82% 20% D1% 81% D1% 82% D0% B0% D1% 80% D1% 82% D0% B5% D1% 80% D0% B0% 20% D0% B2% D0 % B0% D0% B7% 2021043 Starters, generators, air conditioners, ignition coils, gas pumps, sensors

Probably the most unpleasant thing that can be, when you get into the car with thoughts of a good trip, turn the ignition key, and in response, deep silence. And at this moment you remember all the obscene words and pour them onto your car. And it's even worse when it's -30 outside and you're already frozen to the bone. But let's not talk about the sad, but let's just simply sort through the main reasons for the inoperative starter.

BUT! It is imperative before that, you should pay attention to other possible causes of the malfunction. Since in 90% of cases, completely different non-working elements are hidden in the problem of an inoperative starter.

The first step is to pay attention to the following elements:

1) Discharged battery.

The most common problem in this case! It is especially relevant in the winter time! In this case, you need to charge. replace the battery, or warm it up (if the problem arose in winter) or light it up.

The main sign of an inoperative battery will be the noise of a tripped relay when turning the ignition key! But if the battery is "healthy", and the noise of the triggering relay is present, then see the next paragraph.

In general, starting the engine in winter is a separate topic. To which a separate article will be devoted!

2) Lack of "mass" on the solenoid relay.

Pay attention to the reliability of fastening the negative wire from the "ground" of the battery to the starter solenoid relay. Scrape and reattach the weight to the starter retractor if necessary.

3) Open circuit "ignition-starter"

When you turn the ignition key, and in response there is empty silence, even the relay does not work, then the problem lies in the ignition contact group.

First of all, check for contact from the ignition to the starter. If everything is okay with this, then go to the solenoid relay.

Above, we have described the most common causes of a non-working starter. As you understand, the malfunctions described above are not directly related to the starter. Therefore, before removing and replacing the starter, carefully check all 3 points above. Below we will look at the problems of the starter itself. Next, we'll talk about the elements of the starter itself.

4) Defective solenoid relay

There is nothing left here, how to replace it (How to replace the solenoid relay?). But first, again, pay attention to the retractor terminals. In 90% of cases, they need to be cleaned. If, when you try to start the car with the key, you hear clicks, then the problem is most likely in a discharged battery, but if it is charged, then there is a problem with the relay contacts. If there are no sounds or clicks, then the relay coil has burned out (in this case, it needs to be replaced).

5) The brushes are loose on the collector

6) Heavy wear of the manifold

If you still have not figured out what the problem is, try starting the car from the pusher (How to start from the pusher?) And drive to the service.

Starter VAZ 2105: rules for replacement and repair installation, great attention must be paid to securely fixing the power wire of the VAZ 21053 starter relay. When removing the lever, it must be taken into account that the gear must rotate freely in a certain direction.

Vaz 2105 - how to remove the starter | Repair 2105 2106 2107 2121.https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2604/vaz-2105-snyatie-i-ustanovka-startera VAZ 2105 - removing and installing a starter. Removing the starter on a VAZ 2105 car is performed for its repair, in order to replace failed elements, as well as when performing other work in which its presence will interfere with their progress.

VAZ-2105. Electrical equipment. Starter. Management. the starter must be installed in the reverse order of removal. Paintwork and anti-corrosion coatings. VAZ-21051 and VAZ-21053.

Removing the starter VAZ 2105 starter VAZ 2105. Installation. Many parts of the starter may be the cause of a non-working starter. Removing the starter VAZ 2105. Of course, in order to repair the starter, you first need to remove it from the car.

Hello dear motorists! Especially hello, all the owners of the VAZ "seven"! Because it will be about her - VAZ 2107.

Although, the domestic auto industry has nothing to boast about, if we take into account the model line and the quality of the cars produced, there are still copies of the car that you should pay attention to.

VAZ 2107 is a car that can deservedly be called a national one. Due to its somewhat unusual design, this car stands out from the series of "classic" VAZ cars.

This fact, supplemented by small structural differences, became the reason why the model lasted a long time on the conveyor. At times it seemed that the "seven" would be produced forever, but time takes its toll.

Nevertheless, hundreds of thousands of cars of the seventh model are moving along the roads of the country, which for a very long time will lead in popularity ratings among the "classics".

The device of the VAZ 2107 car does not fundamentally differ from previous models. The biggest innovation in recent years has been the installation of a fuel injection system instead of the usual carburetor.

The rest is classic. This also applies to the starting system. That is why for every motorist who has bought a VAZ 2107, how to remove the starter remains an urgent question.

As in most other cars, the starter motor is located at the bottom of the engine in the "seven". In order to get to it, it is necessary to have a viewing hole or an overpass, since it cannot be removed from the top.

An inconvenient location is the only difficulty in removing the starter. Otherwise, everything is extremely simple, no special tools or special knowledge is required.

Removal of the VAZ 2107 starter occurs only with the ignition off as follows:

to begin with, the battery cover is removed and the "ground" terminal is disconnected;

the mudguard is removed, if one was installed in the lower part of the engine compartment;

for convenience, the rechargeable battery with support is removed;

the clamp of the wiring harness leading to the starter is unscrewed;

the wires are unscrewed and removed from the starter traction relay;

three bolts of the starter fastening are unscrewed (two at the top and one at the bottom) after which the starter is removed under the car.

At this stage, the starter motor is completely ready for repair or maintenance.

If you can find a good, knowledgeable assistant to repair the starter, then you will have to install it back into the car yourself. This lesson is not at all inconvenient, but quite responsible, so it should be carried out very carefully in accordance with the order indicated below.

In order for the VAZ 2107 starter to be replaced, or rather, to install it in its regular place, the following must be done:

before installing, carefully inspect the starter, its equipment, build quality, the presence of a centering sleeve;

the starter is installed in a regular place at the bottom of the car and is screwed in with the longest bolt, after which two other mounting bolts are screwed in and tightened;

the wire terminals are installed and the nuts are tightened;

the wire harness supports are installed and fixed;

the battery support is screwed on, the battery is put in place;

the battery terminals are connected, the protective cover is closed;

the electrical system is tested and a dust shield is installed.

Performing such manipulations is quite enough to install the starter, however, the work on the starter can be facilitated if you pay attention to some more details. So, on a carburetor engine, it will be superfluous to remove the air filter, and on the injector - the inlet pipe extension.

The starter is not the most difficult and expensive unit to maintain. But he is one of the key components of the car.

malfunction of the contact supplying current to the starter relay;

malfunction of the starter or relay itself.

It is necessary to remove the VAZ 2107 starter (injector, carburetor) with the battery disconnected. Otherwise, the "positive" wire from the battery to the traction relay contact may create a short circuit. Dismantling works are carried out in the following order:

Remove the mudguard if fitted at the bottom of the engine compartment.

Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the control and power wires from the traction relay.

After that, you can check the performance of the starter and, if necessary, repair or replace it.

Before checking the starter, it is necessary to thoroughly clean it from dirt. Then you should make sure that the traction relay is working. To do this, it is necessary to apply to the starter housing "minus", and to the output "50". A serviceable retractor (traction) relay will push the starter gear forward, and a characteristic click will occur.If the relay is working properly, it is necessary to check the starter windings with a multimeter.

Closure check. Connect one probe to the body, with the second touch the winding leads in series. If the winding is not closed, the resistance should be at least 10 kOhm.

Open circuit check. Connect the test leads of the device to the winding leads. In the event of a break, the multimeter will show “infinity”.

If the VAZ 2107 starter (carburetor, injector) has closed or broken windings, it must be replaced. It is practically impossible to rewind the winding in a workshop.

The work of installing a starter is not difficult, but extremely responsible. Therefore, before installation, it is necessary to carry out a visual inspection, check the equipment, make sure that the starter is operational, and that the starter centering sleeve is available.

Install the starter in its original place and fasten with the longest of the bolts, then a couple of shorter ones.

Install the power and control wires, tighten the terminal retaining nuts.

Install the battery, connect the terminals to it.

Tip: to facilitate the removal and installation of the VAZ 2107 starter, it is worth removing the air filter on the carburetor engine or the intake manifold extension on the injector before starting work.

2) Then unscrew the three screws that secure the retractor relay to the cover, and after unscrewing, carefully remove the relay while holding its armature.

3) After you held the armature thus it did not budge, and the retractor relay was neatly disconnected from it, put the relay aside and grasp the armature thereby remove the spring from it.

4) Next, grasp the anchor with your hand and pull it straight up, and when it comes out of engagement with the lever that holds it, calmly remove the anchor from the cover and thereby completely remove it.

5) Now, when the anchor is removed, use a screwdriver to unscrew the two screws that secure the cover to the electric motor and then detach this cover and set it aside.

6) After the cover is removed, continue to hold the electric motor and then remove from its central part, first by prying the retaining ring of the shaft with a screwdriver, and then the washer indicated by the arrow.

7) Next, unscrew the two tightening bolts with a wrench and then, as shown in the photo in the upper corner, separate the cover together with the main motor, it is also called the rotor, from the body.

8) Then remove all screws (only one screw is shown in the photo) that hold the stator windings.

9) Next, look into the inside of the stator and remove the insulating tube from there.

10) Now, when the insulating tube is removed, separate the stator itself and the cover in which several stator elements remain, which will later need to be removed as well.

11) Then turn over the cover with the stator elements as shown in the figure, and after turning it over, remove the jumper from the brush holder.

12) Then remove all stator brushes and their springs using a screwdriver.

Note!
When the brushes are removed, check them with a caliper and if their height is less than 12 mm, then replace these brushes with new ones!

13) Next, take a mandrel of a suitable diameter in your hands and use it to press out the rear bearing, some also call this bearing a bushing.

14) Now again take the cover with the rotor in it in your hands and then use the pliers to remove the cotter pin of the axis of the drive lever.

Note!
When the axle pin is removed, remove the drive arm axle itself with a thin screwdriver!

15) Next, remove the rubber plug from the body.

16) And after removing the plug, use a screwdriver to disengage the shoulders with the recesses that are present on the coupling, and when the shoulders are disengaged, remove the anchor itself, or as it is also called the rotor together with the coupling.

17) Then remove the lever at the end of which there are the very shoulders that you previously removed from the engagement with the clutch.

18) Next, using a screwdriver as a lever, move the thrust washer ... (Continued in paragraph 19)

19) And immediately behind it, slide and thereby remove the retaining ring while expanding it with two screwdrivers.

20) Now on the rotor shaft, remove the clutch itself.

21) Further, when all the details such as an anchor, it is a rotor, etc. To be removed from the housing, lay the housing as shown in the figure and then press the front bearing out of it using a mandrel.

Assembly:
The starter is assembled in the reverse order of removal.

Note!
When reassembling, remember a few features, firstly, if traces of light burning are found on the armature collector, then use a grinding sandpaper to clean the surface of the armature collector from these traces of burning. When everything is cleaned, rinse the collector surface with gasoline or alcohol, and then blow this collector with compressed air so that all small skin and debris is completely removed from the collector surface!

And also when assembling the starter, lubricate the spline part, the shaft journal with engine oil, as well as the gear that is present on the clutch itself and the bushings that are present in the starter caps! (If you do not know where all these parts and all these places are located, then look at the bottom of the heading "Troubleshooting of starter parts", it says everything in detail)

And when the starter is assembled, then using a vernier caliper, check the axial clearance of the armature shaft, to do this, first pull out the shaft completely and write down the resulting value, and then push in this shaft and also write down the resulting value, after comparing these two values, you will get the axial clearance of the armature , which should be no more than 0.5 mm!

Note!
Before starting, I will immediately note the word "Troubleshooting" which was spelled out in the title just above. Not everyone knows what it is and why this is needed for starter parts, we explain. Fault finding - in essence, if you read this word, you can already understand what it is about, that is, the title of this entry is deciphered like this: "Finding defects among the starter parts", this is what we will do now!

1) After the starter is completely disassembled, the first thing to do is take the stator in your hands and first check the condition of its windings, which should be in good condition and which should not have burn marks. And also check both poles of the stator, which should not have mechanical damage, as well as cracks, etc.

Note!
The poles at the stator, this is essentially the part that is located inside the stator itself, for example, one of the poles in the photo just above is marked with red arrows and the other blue! (But the stator housing itself must also be checked, in which case replace the stator itself with a new one)

2) Next, inspect one of the covers for cracks, and also take a closer look at the bushing indicated by the arrow, its wear is also not allowed.

3) Now take the anchor itself in your hands and also inspect it for damage, bumps, scoring, pay special attention to the shaft splines (the slots are indicated by the arrow) and also pay attention to the trunnion that is present on the same shaft.

4) Next, check whether the anchor of the solenoid relay (indicated by the blue arrow in a disassembled state) moves easily, and also check with an ohmmeter whether the contact bolts (indicated by the red arrow) are closed by the contact plate. (For what is an ohmmeter, see the article entitled: "What is an ohmmeter")

5) After that, inspect the clutch for defects, the gear teeth of this clutch, which are indicated by the arrow, should not have strong wear.

6) And finally, inspect the starter drive lever, on which there should also be no cracks, as well as traces of significant wear of the forks grooves. (Grooves are slots, slots, and joints)

Additional video clip:
If you did not understand something from the written article, then watch the video clip in which the process of replacing the starter bushings is shown, while the starter is almost completely disassembled and everything is clearly very clear, in general, see:

Today we are repairing a VAZ 2105 - its starter

The five stopped turning on? It's a problem - you can't go anywhere without it.
Well, let's figure it out together why the car does not start, what caused the starter to break down and how to fix this malfunction. So let's go in order.
In this article you will find everything you need for self-repair of a starter on a VAZ 2105 car - photos, videos, detailed instructions, as well as many useful tips that will facilitate your work and save your money.

Tools

Removing the starter VAZ 2105

Starter repair

Dismantling the starter

Troubleshooting a starter VAZ 2105

Assembling the starter VAZ 2105

Installation

Many parts of the starter may be the cause of a non-working starter. So, if, when trying to start the engine, a characteristic click is heard, and then everything is quiet, we can conclude that the retractor relay is faulty and before disassembling the starter completely, try to replace it.
If the starter rotates, but the engine does not rotate, then the problem is in the bendix - the gear that engages with the flywheel. Or the contacts on the starter could simply oxidize and it refused to work.

What is useful for starter repair:

Standard set of tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers)

Motor oil

Sandpaper

Multimeter

Calipers

Have you got everything you need for repairs? Here's a repair manual for a VAZ 2105 starter!

Of course, in order to repair the starter, you first need to remove it from the car.
This is what we will do:

Advice! Before removing the starter, ALWAYS (!) Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery!

We remove the air filter for convenience. If the car is injector, then it is necessary to unscrew the braces of the intake manifold.

Next, you will need to use a 10 key (most conveniently with a head) to unscrew the bolt securing the starter shield.

Then we take the key 13 and unscrew the wires from the starter retractor relay so as not to tear them off during the removal process.

Then we unscrew the three starter mounting bolts. This operation is performed with the same key at 13.

Unscrew the starter shield completely.

Remove the starter motor carefully from the engine compartment of the vehicle.

Removal completed.

Advice! It is better to carry out work on a cold engine so as not to burn your hands on the manifold.

So, the starter is in our hands and you can start disassembling it. The workplace should be clean and there should be nothing superfluous on it - there are many small parts in the starter.
They are small, but very important! Don't waste them.

Advice! Before disassembling the starter, be sure to clean it of any dirt! It will be much more convenient this way.

Remove the retractor relay. To do this, use a 13 key to unscrew the nut securing the output wires of the stator winding.
Then we unscrew the two screws securing it from the bottom of the relay and carefully take out the relay together with the spring and the core, which must be disconnected from the plug.

Now we start disassembling the stator. It is secured with two pins. We unscrew them with a head 10 or with a regular key.
Remove the stator from the studs.

Now we are faced with a planetary mechanism, which also needs to be disassembled.

First, pry the main gear with a screwdriver, and then all the others. Pay attention to the degree of wear.

Now you need to remove the starter drive. To do this, we pry the support of the lever (forks) and remove the drive, shaft, lever and outer gear assembly.

We knock down the retaining ring from the gear, remove it.

Then remove the drive from the shaft. There is also a retaining ring - remove that too.

Let's go back to disassembling the stator. The back cover is screwed on with two Phillips screwdriver screws.
Unscrew them and remove the cover.

The brush assembly is removed quite simply - pry it with a screwdriver and remove.

Next, the thrust washer is removed and the armature is removed from the stator.

As a matter of fact, the dismantling of the starter is over.

Now let's turn our attention to what parts could become unusable, as well as whether they are worth changing or "still resemble":

Solenoid relay. Checked with a multimeter.
The contacts of the device should be connected to the terminals of the solenoid relay and closed by pressing the nickle.

If the continuity is working or shows a resistance close to zero, then the relay is working. If not, the relay changes.

The core of the solenoid relay must move freely in it.There should be no chips, scratches, scuffs and so on on the case.
Ease of movement is checked by hand. In case of non-compliance with the requirements, the core should be replaced.

Windings. Burning traces are strictly prohibited.
If the armature winding is burnt, then alas, it should be replaced. If traces of burning are found on the manifold, then this can be cleaned with sandpaper.

The presence of chips and other mechanical damage is not allowed on the surface of the collector.

Starter Bendix. The description of its malfunction was set out above.
Replace if necessary.

The brushes (see Replacing the starter brush and all about it) should have a height of 12 mm - this is the minimum. If the brushes on your starter are worn out more than permissible (checked with a caliper), then they need to be replaced!

Planetary gear. Examine all gears carefully - each of them for mechanical damage.
Defective gears should be replaced.

And if they are all damaged, then the whole mechanism should be changed. After assembly, check the ease of rotation of the gears.

And the last one is testing the armature and stator windings. The stator is checked as follows.
One wire of the multimeter is connected to the body of the starter itself, the second to the output of the stator winding (alternately). It should show a resistance close to 10 kOhm.

We connect the multimeter to the winding terminals and look at the readings - the resistance should not tend to infinity.

We connect one wire of the multimeter to the case, the second to the contact plates. The resistance in this case should also be about 10 kOhm.

If something is wrong, as in this manual, the part must be replaced.

Everyone knows the words - the order of assembly is the reverse of the order of disassembly. As trite as it sounds, it really is.
And therefore, we will not delve into this process, but will pay attention only to some small points that should not be forgotten.