Do-it-yourself starter repair vaz 2107 injector

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a starter vaz 2107 injector from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The starter is not the most difficult and expensive unit to maintain. But he is one of the key components of the car.

Turning the ignition key, the lamps on the dashboard are on, but the starter does not turn, the engine does not start? There are two reasons:

malfunction of the contact supplying current to the starter relay;
malfunction of the starter or relay itself.

In the second case, the starter must be removed, checked, repaired and reinstalled. The repair process is quite complicated and deserves a large, separate article. Here we will tell you how to replace the VAZ 2107 starter (carburetor, injector) and check its performance.

In "seven", as in most cars, the starter is located at the bottom of the engine near the gearbox. Work on replacing the starter must be carried out on a pit or on a lift in order to have free access to the mounting bolts and power supply terminals. Actually, the only problem with dismantling / installing the starter is its inconvenient location. The work does not require special tools and preparation.

It is necessary to remove the VAZ 2107 starter (injector, carburetor) with the battery disconnected. Otherwise, the "positive" wire from the battery to the traction relay contact may create a short circuit. Dismantling works are carried out in the following order:

Disconnect the battery terminals (you can remove the battery, without it it will be more convenient to work).

Remove the mudguard if fitted at the bottom of the engine compartment.

Unscrew the wiring harness fasteners that go to the starter.

Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the control and power wires from the traction relay.

Unscrew the two upper and one lower fastening bolts (One of the upper ones is extremely inconvenient, so some "craftsmen" do not put it back in place after unscrewing it. This weakens the fastening and can lead to breakage under conditions of dynamic loads and vibrations on the assembly) ...

Video (click to play).

Remove the starter by pulling it down under the vehicle.

After that, you can check the performance of the starter and, if necessary, repair or replace it.

Before checking the starter, it is necessary to thoroughly clean it from dirt. Then you should make sure that the traction relay is working. To do this, it is necessary to apply to the starter housing "minus", and to the output "50". A serviceable retractor (traction) relay will push the starter gear forward, and a characteristic click will occur. If the relay is working properly, it is necessary to check the starter windings with a multimeter.

To access the winding, remove the brush assembly. The check is carried out in two stages:

Closure check. Connect one probe to the body, with the second touch the winding leads in series. If the winding is not closed, the resistance should be at least 10 kOhm.
Open circuit check. Connect the test leads of the device to the winding leads. In the event of a break, the multimeter will show “infinity”.

Next, you need to check the armature winding. If the armature is not closed, the resistance between the body and the contact plates should be higher than 10kΩ.

If the VAZ 2107 starter (carburetor, injector) has closed or broken windings, it must be replaced. It is practically impossible to rewind the winding in a workshop.

The work of installing a starter is not difficult, but extremely responsible. Therefore, before installation, it is necessary to carry out a visual inspection, check the equipment, make sure that the starter is operational, and that the starter centering sleeve is available.

To "return" the starter to its original place, it is necessary to do the following operations:

Install the starter in its original place and fasten with the longest of the bolts, then a couple of shorter ones.

Install the power and control wires, tighten the terminal retaining nuts.

Install the starter wiring harness support.

Install the battery, connect the terminals to it.

Install the dust shield (if equipped).

Tip: to facilitate the removal and installation of the VAZ 2107 starter, it is worth removing the air filter on the carburetor engine or the intake manifold extension on the injector before starting work.

Hello dear motorists! We will continue to master the features of operation, diagnostics and repair of the main units of domestic cars. For those who are armed with foreign cars, in principle, this material is also suitable. At least to understand the essence of the problems.

After all, no matter how you twist the starter, but on a foreign car and in a Zhiguli or Lada, it is practically the same. The difference may be insignificant in design, and a new principle of operation of the starter for production cars has not yet been invented.

Therefore, we will consider the technology for repairing a starter on a VAZ 2107. Repair of a VAZ 2107 starter, first of all, consists in performing actions aimed at identifying and eliminating possible malfunctions. Usually, such repairs do not cause any difficulties and is quite within the power of even a novice auto mechanic.

Malfunctions of a VAZ 2107 starter cannot be called fundamentally different from malfunctions of starters of other Zhiguli models. However, when starting to diagnose the condition and repair the starter, you must have a clear idea of possible problems in its operation.

For example, do you know what actions should be taken when the VAZ 2107 starter does not turn badly or does not turn when the key is turned in the lock? In this situation, first of all pay attention to the light of the warning lamps. If they burn dimly or periodically go out, your problem can be considered solved - most likely your battery is simply discharged.

Of course, low battery power cannot be the only reason for poor starter performance. So, for example, the starter armature will not rotate with strongly oxidized battery poles and wire ends. Clean them and spread with Vaseline. And if the tips are loose, tighten them more.

If an interturn short to ground or an open circuit occurs in the retractor winding of the relay, you will have to change the relay - there is no other way to change the situation.

To eliminate openings in the power supply circuit of the relay and in the power supply circuit of the closing relay coil, check the wire connections in the circuit.

Sometimes, when the starter is on, the traction relay works, but does not turn: the armature either does not rotate at all, or rotates very slowly. In this case, it is possible that these are symptoms of burning of the collector, which will be enough to clean.

Wear or hang of the brushes can also cause this situation. In this case, the brushes must be replaced.

It happens that after the starter is turned on, only the armature rotates, while the flywheel remains stationary. Slipping in the movement of the freewheel clutch, rupture of the clutch ring or slipping along the axis of the clutch engaging lever can provoke such a breakdown. In such cases, the clutch and the engaging lever must be replaced.

An abnormal sound emitted by the starter when the armature rotates may indicate a weakened starter fastening, fixing it with a skew, damage to the teeth of the flywheel drive gears or wear of the bearing bushings.

It cannot be that you are not interested in the question of how to check the VAZ 2107 starter on your own, without resorting to the help of specialists from the service center?

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the sequential method, following which you can get an idea of the state of the starter of a VAZ 2107 car:

Remove the starter from the car and clean the outer surface of any dirt
Connect the terminals of the solenoid relay and the battery together (while the starter case must be connected to its negative terminal)
To check the armature and stator windings, remove the rear starter cover and disconnect the brush assembly
Using an ohmmeter, check that the windings are not shorted to the case. If there is no short circuit, the minimum reading of the device will be 10 kOhm
Check windings for breakage. To do this, connect the ohmmeter probes to the winding leads. If you notice the tendency of the ohmmeter indicators to infinity, regard this as a winding break.
Eliminate the absence of a short circuit of the armature "to ground" - connect the ohmmeter probe to the body, and alternately connect the second one to the contact plates. If there is no short circuit, the ohmmeter reading will be at least 10 kOhm.

Only at first glance, the work associated with repairing a starter may seem difficult. But having done it at least once, you can easily diagnose and eliminate most of the breakdowns of the seventh model Zhiguli starter.

Starting the engine on a modern car is carried out using an electric starter. The failure of this device can occur for various reasons associated with its defects or natural wear and tear of the unit. Repair of a VAZ 2107 starter makes sense only if the cost of spare parts and work does not exceed the price of a new one. In any case, first it is necessary to establish the causes of the malfunction, this can be done by analyzing their external manifestations:

Idle rotation of the rotor indicates a breakdown of the overrunning clutch.
Clicks of the solenoid relay in the absence of any other signs of starter operation indicate burning of the contacts.
The lack of rotation of the starter rotor can be caused by wear of the brush assembly or a break in its winding.

In some cases, unsuccessful attempts to start the engine are caused by a low battery charge. Usually, drivers face such a problem in winter. Starter repair begins with removing it, cleaning it from dirt and thoroughly inspecting it.

This operation requires a set of wrenches and a portable lamp to illuminate the work area. The procedure for dismantling the starter is as follows:

Disconnect the battery.
On the retractor relay, unscrew the nut on the contact pin and remove the wire connecting it to the battery.
Disconnect the control circuit.
Using the key "13", unscrew the three bolts securing the starter to the cylinder block.
Carefully remove the device from its seat and, having unrolled it, take it out of the engine compartment.

When removing the unit, be careful not to damage nearby wiring.

The starter motor removed from the engine compartment must be cleaned of dirt and traces of technical fluids. The procedure for disassembling the mechanism is as follows:

We remove the retractor relay from the starter housing and, by unscrewing the tightening screws, disassemble it into its component parts. During the inspection, special attention is paid to the brass contact groups, the burning of which can lead to the failure of the mechanism.
We dismantle the cover of the device and check the condition of the brush assembly. Significant track wear and carbon wear are common causes of starter failure.
The integrity of the rotor winding is checked using a multimeter set to the resistance measurement mode.
The overrunning clutch is checked by hand; a serviceable device allows only one-way rotation.

After establishing the reason for the failure of the electric starter, you should attend to the purchase of the necessary spare parts.

Methods for restoring the device to work depend on the nature of the malfunction. The easiest way to cope with the burning of the contacts on the retractor relay is enough to grind them with fine emery paper. The slip rings are also cleaned and polished when replacing the brushes.The rest of the faults are eliminated by replacing the failed parts or assemblies.

Do-it-yourself starter repair saves money on purchasing a new device. The restored mechanism is mounted on the car in the reverse order of removal and connected to the on-board network. We check and start the engine with a repaired starter.

The starter mechanism is considered one of the main ones in the ignition system, since its correct operation allows the engine to start. Repair of the VAZ-2107 starter or its replacement will be required in the event of a unit failure and when the first symptoms of a malfunction appear.The starter unit on domestic "sevens" is a four-band electric motor equipped with four currents. This unit is a constant voltage motor. Its breakdown will lead to the fact that the crankshaft of the power unit will not be able to rotate when trying to start the engine.One of two models of starter devices can be installed on domestic "sevens":

4216.3708-02;

5722.3708.

The design of the starter device model 4216.3708-02 for VAZ-2107

Mechanism device 4216.3708-02:

1 - front protective cover of the device;
2 - a sealing element designed to protect the unit from moisture and dust ingress into the structure;
3 - freewheel, equipped with a gear of the drive device;
4 - the drive lever itself;
5 - a partition separating the two component parts of the mechanism;
6 - tie rod;
7 - stock;
8 - retractor relay of the mechanism;
9 - washers for adjustment;
10 - casing of the anchor pulley;
11 - lock washer;
12 - back protective cover made of metal;
13 - holder of the brush mechanism;
14 - housing in which the stator device is installed;
15 - anchor assembly of the mechanism;
16 - axis on which the linkage device of the drive unit is mounted;
17 - retaining metal ring;
18 - a sealing element made in the form of a ring;
19 - limiter, made in the form of a ring and designed to limit the movement of the gear.

The design of the starter device for the "seven" 57722.3708

The main structural elements of model 5722.3708:

Regardless of the device model, the unit is mounted in the engine compartment. The starter mechanism can be seen to the right of the engine block. It is fixed in place with three screws and is attached to the clutch housing.

On VAZ-2107 cars, the connection diagram of the starter mechanism will be the same, regardless of the device model:

1 - a generator unit, necessary for charging the battery and generating voltage when the engine is running;
2 - battery;
3 - starter unit;
4 - mechanism activation relay;
5 - block;
6 - ignition switch.

Starter mechanism connection diagram

The reasons why the unit stops working on the VAZ-2107 injector or carburetor and requires its removal and disassembly:

The Autoelectric HF channel spoke about the causes of malfunctions in the operation of the starter mechanisms.

Before you repair the device, you need to diagnose it. This will allow you to determine the type of malfunction and the procedure for doing the repair yourself. There are two options for checking the starter - with or without removal.

To diagnose the operation of the starter device without dismantling, you will need a metal product. It will be used to close the contact terminals at the output of the mechanism. As a metal object, you can use a piece of electrical cable or a screwdriver with a bare stem.

If there is sparking, but there is no cranking of the starter device, the following is done:

Diagnostics of the contact terminals on the battery is performed, you need to make sure that there is no oxidation on the terminals. If there is white or any other color, cleaning is done with sandpaper. In its absence, you can use a knife, but you must act carefully.
The operation of the solenoid relay is checked. Disassemble the assembly and replace the device if necessary.
Diagnostics of the integrity of the electrical circuit between the retractor relay of the device and the mechanism itself is performed. The node will also have to be disassembled. This could be due to damaged wiring.

The starter assembly rotates the crankshaft, but the rotation is insufficient to start the engine:

It is necessary to check the battery charge and, if necessary, replenish it. If there is no possibility of recharging, it is allowed to "light up" the car from a vehicle with a charged battery.
Diagnostics of the integrity of the power cables connected to the starter mechanism is required. Possibly, there was a break or insulation breakdown.

When turning the key in the lock slot, the crankshaft does not turn, but the device clicks are heard:

Low battery. Recharging required.
The contacts are damaged or their quality is poor. These are contact elements connected to the starter unit. It is necessary to check the integrity of the parts and tighten them if necessary.

If the steps described above did not help, you need to check the operation of the traction relay. Also, the problem may lie in the operation of the ignition switch. If the diagnostics did not allow determining the cause, disassembly and inspection of the switch will be required. To make sure that the lock is inoperative, you need to clean all the contacts and connections with high quality.

The battery user has shown how you can check the current of the starter device on a mechanism that has not been removed from the car.

After removal, the starter mechanism must be securely fixed in a vice. This should be done carefully so as not to damage the device. Then you need to connect power from the battery to it and use a screwdriver or a piece of cable to close the contact screws. If the mechanism starts spinning, then the problem lies in the operation of the retractor relay.

To make sure that the traction relay is working, the positive terminal from the battery is connected to it. The negative contact is connected to the body of the mechanism. If this element is working, then the anchor device will advance the gear. You may not see this, but you will hear a characteristic click.
Then the integrity of the brush mechanism and the armature is checked; for this, a 12-volt voltage is applied to the unit. To check the operation of the anchor device, a 220-volt household lamp is taken and connected to the gap between the winding and the pulley. If, as a result of the connection, the light source begins to burn or sparks appear, then the anchor element must be replaced. If sparking, you can hear a burning smell.
A 12 volt lamp is used to diagnose the brush assembly. The device is connected to the brush assembly or the body of the mechanism. If, as a result of the connection, the light source began to burn, then the brushes must be replaced.
Diagnostics of the bendix is in progress. To do this, you need to lay a soft gasket around the part and clamp it in a vice. It is necessary to check the quality of functioning of the clutch itself. If, as a result of physical impact, it turns in different directions, then the bendix must be replaced. The clutch should only rotate in one direction.

When performing diagnostics of a starter on a VAZ-2107, it must be remembered that most of the malfunctions are caused by malfunctions of electrical circuits, as well as a battery or a retractor relay.

To remove the device, proceed as follows:

The car is placed in a garage with a pit or on an overpass. Raises the handbrake lever to prevent the vehicle from rolling away.
The engine compartment opens, the ground wire is disconnected from the battery. The terminal clamp must be loosened with a wrench in advance.
Using a 10 socket wrench, the screws are unscrewed, which fix the heat shield of the starter mechanism.
The air filtering device is removed, then its housing is dismantled. You also need to turn off the air flow supply pipe.
Using a 13 socket wrench, the nut is unscrewed, which secures the starter shield. Then this element is dismantled.
Using the same 13 key, three screws are unscrewed, which fix the body of the starter mechanism. You will need a wrench with an extension cord. It will be more convenient to unscrew the lowest screw from under the bottom, from the pit.
A wrench is used to unscrew the nut that secures the cable lug connected to the positive terminal of the battery.
The cable with the contact connected to the start relay is disconnected.
The starter mechanism is being dismantled. When removing, it is necessary to act from the side of the rear wall of the engine compartment.

The Dvigatel channel spoke about the dismantling of the starter device on VAZ-2107 cars.

When working on a car equipped with an injection engine, it is necessary to dismantle the intake manifold extension. It connects directly to the powertrain. Also, on injection engines, instead of one nut that secures the starter shield, two are used.

The main feature of dismantling work on carburetor ICEs is the need to remove the air filter housing. Without this, it will not be possible to remove the knot.

The repair procedure for the VAZ-2107 starter includes two stages. We are talking about disassembling the device and troubleshooting its constituent parts.

When disassembling the device, it is necessary to replace the defective parts with new ones:

The Auto Repair and Maintenance Channel showed the procedure for self-disassembly of the starter mechanism for classic VAZ models.

Troubleshooting of the constituent elements is performed as follows:

First, the height of the brushes is measured on the mechanism. Parts wear out over time. Therefore, if the height is 1.2 cm or less, the brushes must be replaced.
A visual check of the condition of the winding is performed. There should be no traces of damage to the insulation or its burnout. The poles of the stator device must be free of mechanical damage in the form of cracks and other defects. If any, the winding must be replaced or rewound.
Inspect the sleeve on the cover from the side of the collector device. It must not be worn out, cracks or any other defects are not allowed.
A visual check of the anchor element is performed. It is not allowed the presence of scoring, nicks, in particular, we are talking about splines and a shaft. The collector mechanism of the armature must not have any traces of combustion, otherwise it must be replaced.
Then it is necessary to check how easily the anchor device of the retractor element moves. You need to make sure that the contact screws of the plate are closed, this will require an ohmmeter or multimeter.
The gears of the clutch of the drive device are inspected. There should be no signs of wear on its teeth.
A visual check of the drive arm is performed. Traces of cracks and other defects, as well as wear of grooves, are not allowed on it.

One of the weak devices of the VAZ-2017 starter is the bendix, but often it cannot be repaired, only replaced.

Altevaa TV talked about checking the windings in order to determine their faults and replace parts.

The assembly procedure is carried out in reverse order:

If necessary, the surface of the armature collector device is cleaned. Fine sandpaper is used for cleaning. After cleaning, the collector mechanism must be blown with compressed air flow, and also treated with fuel or an alcohol solution.
Then the spline surface of the anchor pulley is treated with motor fluid. Also, the pulley journals, the drive clutch gear and the bearing elements located in the device covers are subject to processing.
When the assembly of the mechanism is completed, using a vernier caliper, the axial clearance of the armature shaft is diagnosed. To do this, the shaft moves in one direction - to the collector mechanism, and then in the other - to the drive.It is necessary to measure the difference in the parameters of the protrusion of the pulley from the cover on the side of the drive element. The size of the gap should be no more than 0.5 mm.

The dismantling procedure is described in the section on diagnostics of the device with removal. The removal process is not much different on injection and carburetor ICEs.

To install, follow these steps:

The mechanism is being installed in the seat. The longest screw is tightened first to secure the device, and then the remaining short screws.
All screws are tightened to secure the assembly securely.
The power cable is connected, as well as the control cable. The nuts fixing the terminal clamps are tightened.
The harness support with the mechanism cables is screwed on.
The terminals are connected to the battery, the clamps are tightened with a wrench.
If the device is equipped with a dust shield, it is installed in place. The bolt securing the casing is tightened.

The Budny Avtobiznes channel presented a video showing in detail the manual for the repair of starter mechanisms on classic VAZ models.

Often, the starter fails in VAZ cars. In this article, we will talk about what leads to such malfunctions, how to identify and eliminate them.
The starters used by the manufacturer for installation on the VAZ 2107 can be of different types and differ slightly in design. At the same time, the principle of their work, of course, does not change.
This mechanism generates direct current and creates the torque required to rotate the crankshaft.

To repair any part, you need to know its structure and principle of operation:

Frame;
Anchor;
Drive unit;
brushes and relays, the connection to which is made using contact bolts. These are structural elements, each of which consists of individual spare parts that can be replaced if necessary.

Do-it-yourself repairs on a VAZ 2107 starter are easy. The main thing is to correctly determine the cause of the breakdown.

All work begins with something. And this one is no exception.
First you need to understand what is not working properly and only after that think about what can be done and how to fix the malfunction.

To determine correctly, you first need to think and see what the cause of the problem may be:

If, after turning the key in the ignition lock, the engine does not start, check the bulbs on the scoreboard. Extinct, or weakly burning and dying out bulbs indicate a malfunction in the battery: it is discharged, or the terminals are poorly tightened.
Each driver has a tester in the car that allows you to check the voltage and capacity of the battery without dismantling it.
If the battery has nothing to do with it, you need to check the position of the speed switch and, if necessary, put it in the "P" position.
Next, you need to find out if power reaches the starter at all from the ignition switch?

Advice! The easiest way to do this is on the red wire connector connecting the starter and the unloading relay.

This work can be done in two ways:

Method 1: - a copper wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm2 is taken and inserted into an open connector. One end to the battery terminal and the other to the starter.
Thus, ignition is simulated.
Method 2: - two people are needed here: one turns the key in the ignition lock, and the second with a control probe touches the tip of the wire coming from the unloading relay. If at the same time the control lamp comes on, then there is no damage in the ignition switch or in the relay.

Any part can fail. But it is not enough just to do it.
It is also necessary to find out what caused the malfunction and prevent it from happening again. After all, the reason may not be in the part itself, but for example, a malfunction may be hidden in a circuit that is located even before it.
Let's think about the causes of the malfunction. Of which there may be several:

Advice! In case of a problem with the contact, crimp the wire with a round copper tip and, together with the fastener, screw the ground to the relay. This will be the simplest solution to this problem.

After making sure that both the relay and the ignition switch are in order, making repairs at the VAZ 2107, the starter is carefully examined. To do this, remove it and make a visual inspection of the contacts on the solenoid relay.
Loose nuts are sometimes the cause of poor contact, causing the terminals to heat up and burn.
How to determine the working capacity of a solenoid relay?

Advice! It's easier to do this: take a piece of wire with a cross section of 8-10mm2 and connect it to the positive terminal. Put the starter on the battery, resting its body against the negative terminal.
Touch the other end of the wire to the terminal on the solenoid relay.

Attention: If, after such a manipulation, the starter starts working, it means that the cause of the malfunction is in the relay. If there is no reaction, it can be assumed that the problem lies in the brushes.

There is another problem with all cars, not just the VAZ 2107: the starter, which needs to be repaired, has an overestimated power consumption. This may be evidenced by a strong decrease in the illumination of the instrument panel and the brightness of the lamps.
There are three types of problems that can arise:

Insufficient wire contact
Increased mechanical resistance
Low resistance.

Advice! If cleaning the outer contacts of the electrical circuit did not help to eliminate the breakdown, you need to check the contacts inside the starter, as well as the brush assemblies.

There are also mechanical reasons that prevent the smooth operation of the starter:

Bushing wear contributes to the closure between the windings and wedges the moving elements.

Crankshaft resistance due to an error in the selection of liners or improperly filled, too viscous, engine oil.

Breakage in the armature winding... This defect contributes to sparking on the manifold. The electric arc, which forms at the point of rupture, is capable of burning through steel, and not just insulation. On the Internet, you can see a similar video.
In the case of unsoldering the winding, you only need emery, solder, and a soldering iron.

It is quite clear that not any repair of the electrical equipment of the car, and, in particular, the starter, can be done by yourself. To do this, you need to ring the winding, this will be required in order to correctly determine the malfunction.
If you nevertheless decide to repair the starter yourself, you should learn how to properly remove and disassemble the VAZ 2107 starter. Having installed your car on an overpass or inspection pit, you need to disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
Further actions will depend on what type of engine your car has - carburetor or injection.

In this case, you need to remove the air filter housing, having previously disconnected and removed the MAF sensor (mass air flow sensor).
Then, using a flat screwdriver, it is necessary to remove the rubber holders that fix the filter from the brackets.
It is required to remove the water intake from the holder by disconnecting it from the filter connection.

Starter repair in a carburetor engine

First of all, you need to remove the mudguards - main and additional. Using an 8 socket wrench, unscrew the 4 screws for the front and 4 screws for the side fastening of the main shield, and 2 more bolts at the back of the additional one.
The bottom screw has a different size and requires a 10 socket wrench to remove it.
Further, already with a socket wrench 13, with an extension, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts securing the starter and the clutch housing. Then those bolts that attach the starter to the intake manifold brace and the bracket that holds the lambda sensor harness - the probe.
Then, carefully removing the extension of the intake manifold and unscrewing the nut of the exhaust manifold with a wrench, remove the shield.

Attention: Further steps are the same for both types of the VAZ 2107 engine.After eliminating all malfunctions and replacing worn-out elements, installing a VAZ 2107 starter, the repair of the electrical part of the car can be considered successfully completed.In most cases, the repair of the VAZ 2107 starter can be done independently, saving a lot of time. Therefore, let's master some diagnostic techniques, "treatment" of this mechanism and deal with situations when only replacement will help.If, when turning the key in the ignition lock, the starter does not turn, no clicks or sounds are heard, then the reason may be this:

discharged or faulty battery;

battery contacts are oxidized;

a problem with the contacts of the starter itself;

open circuit in the windings of the device or the electrical circuit of the car.

When the starter turns slowly, clicks of the traction relay are heard, then the reason may be as follows:

there is a charge in the battery, but it is not enough to spin the moving parts of the starter well;

carbon deposits have formed on the contacts or they have oxidized;

worn brushes or burnt collector;

short circuits in windings or brush holders.

Starter brush wear

Repeated actuation of the relay and its spontaneous disconnection can be caused by a voltage drop in the network due to oxidized contacts or a malfunction of the traction relay. When the starter turns, but the flywheel does not rotate, there may be several reasons:

a problem with the freewheel (bendix);
damaged drive teeth or flywheel;
bearings or springs of the traction relay are worn out.

These are, perhaps, the main malfunctions and their common explanations. They are equally true for carbureted models and injectors.

Disassembling the mechanism is not a primary task, since the starter power is connected to the battery, then you need to start with it. If the car is not too old, it is unlikely that the problem will lie in the structure of the starter itself. It is enough to clean the contacts of the battery or the device itself so that everything will work again in the desired mode.Difficulties begin when the machine has worked for a long time and its operation was not delicate. If, after a complete check of the electrical equipment of your VAZ 2107, the starter does not start or continues to work intermittently, then the reason is inside the device and it is necessary to remove and disassemble the starter. On this model, both in carburetor and injector versions, it is installed rather inconveniently. To get to it normally, you will have to drive the car onto an overpass or a viewing hole.After the ignition is turned off, you can proceed to the "operation". It must be carried out in the following order:

remove the ground terminal from the battery;

if there is a protective mud casing below, then it is necessary to dismantle it as well;

remove the electrical wires from the solenoid relay;

unscrew the three mounting bolts (two upper, one lower);

remove the starter.

As you can see, nothing complicated. The only thing, in the case of an injection model, mechanics are advised to remove the inlet pipe stretch marks as well. Now we have to disassemble the device itself.

Checking the integrity of the stator winding

An operation that can really be called a repair is a replacement of brushes. The fact that they are erased, you can easily find out during the diagnosis. It is enough to turn the starter to its side when it is connected to the battery and turns it properly. If the unit immediately stalls, the "blame" is the wear of the brushes. Replacing parts is easy and affordable even for a beginner. It has already been said above that it is enough to remove the cover at the back of the starter. When the brush holder is removed, the springs in it will push the brushes out, which will hang on the wires. Replacement is a matter of minutes.

The main thing is that in no case do not allow oil or fuel to get on the brushes or wire windings.... An electrician does not tolerate moisture and grease. Therefore, during any operations with the starter parts, especially when it is being assembled, proceed carefully and, if possible, stay away from liquids and fuels and lubricants.

There is one rare malfunction when the starter turns on, but nothing turns. In this case, the bendix is to blame - a device that warns against a sharp impact of the drive gear teeth on the flywheel. Its main malfunctions are the wear of the rollers, the gear itself, the weakening of the pressure spring or the inadequacy of the lubricant. This part is inexpensive, changes quickly, and therefore there is no point in fiddling with repairs. It is better to buy it in the store, the replacement is done on the "way back" when the starter is being assembled.

Video (click to play).

Sometimes it is necessary to replace the armature bushings, but this is extremely rare, because they are made of a very reliable material and wear appears only after a really long operation. There are only two of them - in the toe and the back cover. Usually, the process of knocking out the bushings from the seat is confusing, but choosing the right guide, you will not spoil anything. Then the part of the required diameter is lubricated and pushed into the hole. If the going gets tough, do not use more force, but rather sand the body of the bushings and try again, otherwise the socket may simply burst.