DIY VAZ 21083 starter repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 21083 starter from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

As you know, the starter is one of the most important parts of the car. The malfunction of this element is easily detected, even by inexperienced drivers.
Such repairs can be done on their own, you just have to have the instructions at hand, which will be given below. In this article, we will consider the starter of the popular car of the golden youth of the 90s VAZ 2109.

This car became the ancestor of a large number of cars.

starter vaz 2109 before repair

But as a result of operation, this model began to crumble exactly like the previous Lada. Parts began to fail again, as in the previous Zhiguli.
The starter, which was the main part of the starting system, suffered especially, and was often subjected to heavy loads, especially in the winter season.

Repair of the VAZ 2109 starter is not particularly difficult for an experienced driver who managed to get acquainted with this part in old models of classic Zhiguli. This part is quite simple in its design, like most cars of this family.
The part consists of:

a direct current electric motor, which has 4 poles, endowed with an electromagnetic connection;
there are also freewheel clutches;
traction relay.

Faults in this part are easy to distinguish. The general design of the starter "nine" has not undergone absolutely any changes, although the developers have modernized some elements.
So:

The main difference from previous starter models is the shaft sleeve, which is no longer installed in the starter, but in the clutch system. And this element is often forgotten when carrying out repair work, people who have not received special technical education and have not studied the "nine" scheme. To replace the starter bushing on the VAZ 2109, you need to have some skills. If you have not done this work before, then you can find yourself face to face with various difficulties.
Another malfunction that I would like to highlight is the VAZ 2109 starter retractor relay. This part also becomes the culprit for the malfunction of the "nine" starter quite often.
Empty repeated operation, not holding the gear in the required engagement, can be considered its breakdown.

Video (click to play).

Otherwise, defects associated with the starter of the VAZ 2109 modification are as follows:

the starter shaft does not rotate or does it very slowly;
the gear slips, this happens with poor meshing with the flywheel crown, although the shaft rotates;
during operation, the starter emits a tapping or abnormal sound.

Having noticed one of the above malfunctions, you must immediately proceed to repair. If you do not do this work right away, then you risk permanently damaging the part and no longer being able to repair it.

Before troubleshooting, it's worth looking at battery performance. Symptoms of a weak battery are often similar to a malfunctioning starter motor.
You should also check the following type of communication: battery / ignition switch / starter / traction relay. Removing the starter is not so difficult.
For this you need:

remove the terminals from the battery;
disassemble the engine crankcase protection;
disconnect the wiring terminals;
unscrew the nuts securing the starter to the crankcase (there are three of them).

Attention: In the process of dismantling, special attention must be paid to such parts of the starter as the armature, the condition of the winding, defects in the gears, the cleanliness of the contacts and much more.

Do not think that before removing the starter, you need to lift the VAZ 2109 car to the inspection pit. We begin to repair the starter after it has been completely removed.
So let's start:

we check the relay by applying a voltage of 12 V to the output, do not forget that the minus should be closed to the case;
simultaneously with this procedure, we attach the ohmmeter to the contact bolts (if the relay is working normally, the clutch should move into the hole when current is received, and the bolts should be closed - if this does not happen, then the relay should be replaced).

checking the starter relay VAZ 2109

checking the brushes;
the starter cover is removed, after which the screw fixing the fastening of all wires is unscrewed;
the spring is removed;
the brush is removed (as a rule, its minimum height should be 12 mm - otherwise, this means its erasure and mandatory replacement).

We continue to work with VAZ 2109. The starter, which is being repaired by hand, must be carefully inspected.
At this stage, you can even arm yourself with a magnifying glass in order to see everything better.
Let's move on to the next step:

we check the winding of the starter itself (as mentioned above, this device does not differ much from other models of the VAZ 2109, and do-it-yourself starter repairs must be carried out skillfully and know all the basics of the circuit);
we take an ohmmeter and check for a short circuit between the turns and on the case;
we inspect the collector and other windings (for this it is necessary to carefully remove the ring so that it does not fall off, and pull it out);
remove the washer from the axis;
we unscrew a few bolts;
disconnect the tubes that serve to isolate the tie bolts and take them out;
we carefully inspect the collector and the winding (they should not have carbon deposits or surf);
wipe minor changes on the surface with emery paper.

On a vaz 2109, repairing a starter with your own hands also implies a thorough check of the armature winding.

we take a control lamp for 220 W;
we check the insulation for rupture, determine the shaft runout (which should be 0.08 mm, the insulation resistance should be at least 10 kΩ;
we connect the armature collector with one wire with a current of 220 V;
We connect the second wire through a 220 W 100 W lamp to the power case (if the lamp lights up, then there is a breakdown in the anchor and it needs to be replaced.

On a VAZ 21099 car, repairing a starter, where the anchor is in order, also implies an inspection and check of the collector.
A few important tips:

if the plates are burned in two places on the collector, then the coil is broken;
if the plates are blue, it means that a turn circuit has occurred (this happens rarely, but it does occur):
turn-to-turn closure is detected in the visible areas of the armature wire or busbar (usually the turns are crumpled or bent);
you can eliminate the short circuit and fix the bruised tires by checking for foreign bodies;
if the location of the closure is not found, it remains only to rewind the anchor.

Read also: DIY balalaika repair

On a VAZ 21093 car, a starter repair, as on a VAZ 21099 and 2109, after checking the windings, implies an inspection of the couplings and gears.
To do this, we carry out operations of the following type:

remove the washer from the anchor axis;
we take out the anchor assembly with the drive;
take out the clutch drive lever;
we begin to rotate the gear (while there should be no chips and notches, if any, it is advisable to replace the device).

The video, of course, can help in this matter, but first of all, you should understand what you are doing and how it works.

Attention: When assembling the starter in reverse order, it is advisable to check its shell. All plastic parts must be covered with lithol (pictured below), even if they are in good condition.

The instruction also recommends lubricating all parts that rub against with machine oil for prophylaxis.
Having learned how to repair a starter with our own hands, we get a unique opportunity not only to repair our favorite car with high quality, but also to really save. After all, the price of a new starter is not cheap in stores, and it is not always possible to find a good one.

The article describes in great detail with a photo accompaniment the process of repairing a starter on a VAZ 2110 car.

In a new car, breakdowns and malfunctions in the starter are rare. But if the machine has served for more than 5 years, then problems may arise.The car owner himself can determine the malfunction of the starter - the car does not start, uncharacteristic sounds when starting the engine, the starter turns off spontaneously.

But many motorists do not pay attention to such signals from the car. And they bring the situation to the point that it is no longer possible to "save" the starter. But an experienced motorist who monitors his car, immediately, by the sound of a working car, will determine the malfunction of this part. So how do you fix a starter? Its repair takes place in several dozen stages described below.

1. First, you need to remove the starter from the car. Now we proceed to disassemble the part.

3. Disconnect the tire from the traction relay contact bolt.

4. Carefully remove the two bolts that hold the traction relay.

5. The traction relay must be removed from the starter.

6. Set aside the starter itself and remove the armature from the traction relay. To do this, lift it up and the anchor loop is released from the lever.

7. Now we return to the starter itself. Remove the tie rod nuts.

8. The next step is to remove the cover from the drive end with the gearbox and the same assembly part.

9. The cover must also be removed from the side of the collector with brushes and brush holders.

10. Then remove the gear from the anchor shaft.

11. Pull the anchor itself out of the starter.

12. The anchor shaft has a washer on the drive side (pay special attention to this).

13. Use a screwdriver or other thin object to remove the anchor shaft support.

14. Then use a small screwdriver to remove the two tie rods from the starter cover. In general, it is not necessary to remove them, if you are in a hurry, you can leave them, however, it is more convenient to remove the drive and gearbox without these pins.

15. Then remove the three gears of the reducer. A breakdown of the starter may consist precisely in the fact that these gears have damaged, broken teeth or needle bearings embedded in the gears. If this defect is present, then replace the parts and the starter will work again.

16. But, if the gears are in order, then continue to disassemble and check the starter for damage further. It is necessary to remove the gearbox with the drive from the cover, after pressing on the gear of the starter drive.

17. The support with the seal must be removed from the lever.

19. Use a hammer to knock the stop ring off the retaining ring using a suitable arbor.

20. Carefully remove the retaining ring first and then the stop ring.

21. Remove the actuator assembly from the drive shaft.

22. Unscrew the lever retaining ring.

23. Then remove the lever with washer and leash.

24. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the spring of the lever.

25. Now you can remove the lever from the liner, and separate the halves of the lever.

26. Remove the meshing gear retaining ring.

27. Next, disassemble the internal gear and remove the drive shaft support from the shaft.

28. Carefully remove the o-ring from the pore. Examine it carefully. A damaged, deformed, hardened ring will adversely affect the operation of the entire starter. It must be replaced.

29. The next step is to remove the insert from the support.

30. From the side of the collector, unscrew the two screws and remove the brush holder.

31. Using a screwdriver, pry off the brush clips.

32. Then remove these clips and their hold-down springs. Again, replace deformed or damaged parts, heavily compressed or bent, broken springs.

33. Pull the brushes out of the brush holder guides.

34. Uninsulated brushes must be removed.

35. Then remove the cardboard insulation strip. If it is damaged, compressed, torn, replace it with a new one.

36. Remove the insulated brushes with connecting rails.

37. Carefully and in detail inspect the anchor. Pay attention to the collector.

1. If the part is dirty, smoked, sand it with glass fine sandpaper. If traces of significant roughness are visible on it or mica protrudes strongly, grind the part on a lathe and then grind the collector with fine sandpaper.

2. If traces of yellow plaque from the bearing are visible on the anchor, then clean it with fine glass sandpaper, because later this can lead to jamming of the shaft gear.If there are dents or nicks on the surfaces of parts such as pins and shaft splines, replace the entire armature. Pay attention to the winding along the ends of the armature. If you see any flaws there, replace the anchor.

3. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates.

38. Using a test lamp supplied with an alternating current of 220 V, check the condition of the armature winding. Connect the lamp voltage to the collector plate and the armature core. If everything is in order, the lamp should not be lit. If, nevertheless, it burns, then the anchor winding has closed. In this case, simply replace the starter armature with a new one.

39. While holding the overrunning clutch, turn the starter gear in both directions: clockwise the gear should move absolutely freely, and should not rotate counterclockwise at all. If something is broken, replace the drive.

40. Then put the starter drive onto the drive shaft. If everything is in order, then it should move freely, without jamming or stopping, along the splines of the shaft.

41. If you see that the drive parts are badly worn, deformed, damaged, replace the drive. If you find nicks on the winding end of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained emery wheel. Choose a circle with a small diameter.

42. Inspect the bushings in which the shafts rotate. They are installed in the starter cover on the drive side, on the manifold side, the armature and drive shaft support. If bushings are deformed or scored, replace covers or supports with broken bushings. Cracked covers and supports should also be replaced.

43. Carefully inspect the starter itself, and if there are traces of anchor rubbing on it, replace the cover and intermediate support with a new one.

44. Worn brushes up to the size between the working surface and the terminal less than 3.5 mm, replace.

45. The brushes must move freely towards the brush holder. And the brush holder should not have cracks, chips, flaws. Check if this is so. If everything is in order, then proceed to the next stage of the repair. If there are faults, replace the parts.

46. Begin inspection of the drive shaft. Its elements should not show signs of damage, severe wear and deformation. If there is plaque, remove it with fine glass sandpaper. Work carefully so as not to damage the parts.

47. Using an ohmmeter, check if the contact plate closes the traction relay contact bolts. If they do not close, replace the parts or simply repair the relay.

48. To repair the relay:

1. Remove the two screws.
2. Unsolder the relay coils and terminals.
3. Then remove the cover and sand the pins and bolt heads with a sandpaper. The relay should be assembled in the reverse order.

49. Now proceed with the assembly of the starter. Before starting, lubricate the gear teeth with engine oil. Assemble the starter in reverse order.

50. Install the brush holder into the starter separately from the cover on the collector side. To assemble and install this part, use a bushing with a diameter (mark 1) equal to the diameter of the manifold (approximately 30 millimeters).

51. Install the assembled brush holder into the starter housing until it stops, then remove the bushing and install the cover on the starter from the collector side. The renovation is completed.

And your starter for a VAZ car is as good as new again!

The car starter VAZ 2108, unfortunately for the owners of eights, breaks down quite often. Going to a car service every time it breaks down is undoubtedly stupid, which means you need to learn how to repair this part yourself.

The considered mechanism is a short-term engine. In cases where the starter of a VAZ 2108 car is in a completely serviceable condition, and the car battery delivers a high-quality current, the start of the device lasts at most a few seconds. It should not function for a long time, so those who like to "drive" the starter should give up their habit and use it only as recommended by the manufacturers.

As the practice of operating the starter shows, its replacement and repair is most often required precisely in those cases when the owner of the VAZ 2108 excessively overloads the described mechanism, and also starts it with a weak battery. In addition, the breakdown of the starting device may be associated with certain problems caused by malfunctions of the car engine.

Most often, the starter fails during the winter. At negative temperatures, very high loads are placed on it. If the mechanism is old, it simply "refuses" to function, which is not surprising, because it perceives a huge current load equal to 450 amperes. This amount of current causes some common breakdowns of the starter, in particular, the phenomenon of burning of contacts on the relay of the device. In this case, we are talking about the melting of the wires connected to the stator motor and to the "plus" of the battery.

Burning of the contacts during the operation of the vehicle cannot be avoided, since a large current regularly passes through the power circuits. Therefore, there is only one way out - to repair the relay according to the diagram below, to clean the contacts, thereby restoring the starter's performance.

The repair of the starter device and its replacement is never carried out by experienced motorists without first dialing it. The scheme for implementing this operation is very simple, we put the starter with the windings up (that is, on the end), and then perform the following actions: connect one end of the wire to the bolts of the tested mechanism, the other to the positive terminal; we start the device.If, after starting, the mechanism turns poorly or does not turn at all, you can safely start repairing it. In those cases, when the device works normally, there is no need to disassemble it, most likely, the reason for the poor start is another element of the car. It will be useful, in addition, to check directly the relay of the mechanism. The verification scheme in this situation is elementary:

"minus" is applied to the relay body;

12-volt voltage is applied to the output;

an ohmmeter is connected to the contact bolts.

The appearance of sparks on the bolt contacts and the movement of the coupling into the hole tell us about the serviceability of the relay. But the absence of these phenomena, as well as voltage surges on the device, signals that the relay needs to be replaced, since the starter does not turn because of it. To install a new relay element, you need to disassemble the starting mechanism - remove the shield from it, remove the hose from the air collector, and then very carefully take out the starter itself.

We carry out all these procedures in "neutral", and raise the vehicle itself on a jack or put it on a pit.

Then you should unscrew the bolts that connect the starter to the relay, mount a new mechanism. In this case, it is important to achieve engagement of the drive lever with the tip of the installed device. We install the starter in its place and connect the previously folded wires.

Sometimes the reasons for the breakdown (does not twist, does not start the first time, and so on) of the VAZ 2108 mechanism of interest to us lie in its other components (brushes, bushings). To repair them, you need to completely disassemble it. The scheme of this operation is shown below:

unscrew the stud nuts (there are two of them) using a 10 key;

we get the device we need together with the anchor;

remove the main gear from the armature shaft;

unscrew two screws from the back cover - use a curly screwdriver;

dismantle the cover;

we take out (assembled) brushes and take out an anchor from the stator, from which a special adjusting washer is removed, and then the shaft support.

Now you can disassemble the gears (planetary type) of the drive and the drive itself, separate the support from the lever to gain access to all the "insides" of the starter (bushings, brushes and brush holder, armature winding, etc.). The elements of the mechanism should not have any traces of charring, efficient anchor windings and the collector always have a clean appearance without any contamination.

If necessary, we replace the bushings, use fine "sandpaper" to process small scratches on the collector (if any), put a new anchor in those cases when we see that it is badly worn out or burnt. Bushings change elementary, sandpaper, I think everyone will be able to apply, so you should not have any special difficulties in performing such repair operations. To replace the bushing and clean the collector on the VAZ 2108 as smoothly as possible, be sure to watch the video of the implementation of such processes.

"Sandpaper" will have to be used if there are enveloping or scoring on the bearings of the shaft journal. Just sand them with fine grit sandpaper. When the brushes are worn out (it is visible immediately), it is recommended to replace them, moreover, assembled with a brush holder. After all the repair operations, the starter can be assembled.

The VAZ 2109 starter is the part of the car, without which the engine will not start. Experienced drivers in the operation of the unit can identify malfunctions and eliminate them in time. The article discusses the main malfunctions, gives recommendations on how to repair the starter of a VAZ 2109 car with your own hands, and a demo video is also attached.Before looking for a malfunction of the mechanism, it is necessary to study its structure and principle of operation. The design of the starter on the VAZ is similar to a similar unit of the UAZ car. It consists of an electric motor, a traction relay, a freewheel clutch with a gear. Provides the rotation of the gear, the rotor and the movement of the sleeve coupling.The purpose of the trigger is to convert electrical energy into rotary motion of the drive gear. Electricity is supplied to the poles of the power unit thanks to the brushes. At the same moment, the clutch extends, and the gear is connected to the flywheel crown. After starting the motor, the clutch returns to its place.A malfunction of the starting device can be determined by the following signs:

spinning slowly or not spinning at all;

extraneous noise during starting the power unit;

turns, but there is no clutch between the flywheel crown and the gear;

begins to rotate together with the flywheel, but after a while the engagement disappears;

the device does not react in any way to turning the key in the ignition lock.

First of all, you should check the operation of the machine's electrical network, battery charging, the quality of the connectors and terminals. In addition, you need to check the fuse responsible for the operation of the trigger and relay (video by Ivan Matieshin).Sometimes, in order to troubleshoot a malfunction, you have to remove the starting mechanism and disassemble it.Removing the starter consists of the following steps:

First, the car must be de-energized by removing the negative terminal from the battery.

Then you need to disconnect the connector with wires.

The next step is to dismantle the crankcase protection.

To remove the starter, it is more convenient to first unscrew the two nuts at the bottom of the engine compartment, and then move upward and unscrew the third nut.

The device can now be removed from the clutch housing.

Before doing DIY repairs on the removed device, it should be washed and cleaned from dirt.Disassembly of the starter is carried out in stages.The first stage is to inspect the condition of the brushes. To do this, remove the protective cover, depress the springs and remove the brushes. The height of the brushes is measured with a caliper or ruler. If it is less than 12 cm, then they should be replaced. The presence of cracks or chips on the working surface is unacceptable.The second stage is dismantling and checking the anchor. For this, the housing is removed together with the stator. At anchor, it is necessary to perform a visual inspection of the collector and check the winding for integrity.The third stage is to remove the freewheel clutch from the gear. To dismantle the coupling, you need to remove the armature from the front cover, then remove the intermediate support from the shaft. Next, you should inspect the gear teeth.If the clutch is found to be defective, it must be replaced.One way clutch and gearThe fourth stage is the replacement of the solenoid relay. Replacement should be done if the overrunning clutch does not extend when voltage is applied to the terminals. It is better to change the entire node as a whole.The fifth stage is replacing the starter sleeve. If, during rotation, the starting device starts to stick, the reason is most often worn out starter bushings on the VAZ 2109. If the VAZ 2109 starter bushings are replaced, then you need to change the bushing, which is in the rear cover, and the second one installed in the clutch box. Naturally, you need to know how to replace the starter bushing.Defects in bushings are detected by inspection. The working surface should be free of chips, cracks, scuffs, as well as strong wear. You can conclude that you need to replace the VAZ 2109 starter sleeve by the presence of a backlash.Before installing new parts, the inner surface must be lubricated with engine oil.After eliminating all faults, you can start assembling the VAZ 2109 starter. Before assembling the device, all parts should be cleaned of dust and dirt. Sometimes cleaning the parts can restore the functionality of the device.Assembling the starter does not take much time. The assembled mechanism is installed in its original place. Next, a connector with wires is attached to it. After final assembly, the device should be checked for functionality.If it was not possible to repair the device, then the VAZ 2109 starter will need to be replaced. Knowing how to remove the starter, it is not difficult to replace it with a new unit. Thus, you can repair your car yourself, saving on service station maintenance.

Sorry, there are currently no polls available.This video describes in detail the repair of a VAZ 2109 starter (the author of the video is CHECK Kharkiv).A starter on a VAZ 2109-2108 car can serve for quite a long time, even without basic repairs, and there are many cases when it has looked after more than 200,000 km without a single problem. Of course, now there are not so many high-quality spare parts and one has to dream of such a resource. If this is your first time to replace the starter on your own, then the instructions below will help you do it as quickly and conveniently as possible.So, first of all, it is worth saying about the necessary tool for performing this repair:After that, we take the key for 13 and unscrew the terminal fastening nut from the contact terminal on the starter retractor relay, as is clearly shown in the photo below:And after that we take the wire to the side:It is also necessary to pull off one more positive wire - which is thinner, red:Now it remains to unscrew three or two starter nuts. Two are on top on either side, as seen in the photo below:And the third one is at the bottom and it is most convenient to get to it from under the bottom (with the engine protection removed):Then you can carefully remove the starter from the studs and take it to the side without any sudden movements:And finally remove it from the car, since nothing else holds it:If it is necessary to replace it, we buy a new starter at a price of 2,000 to 3,500 rubles. They differ primarily in their design: the more expensive, as a rule, geared, of course, surpasses conventional devices in all respects, but you will have to pay almost twice as much for it! The installation is carried out in the reverse order.Rice. 7.20. Starter details: 1 - retaining ring; 2 - a restraining ring; 3 - overrunning clutch drive; 4 - the axis of the lever; 5 - front cover; 6 - drive lever; 7 - relay anchor; 8 - traction relay; 9 - back cover; 10 - protective casing; 11 - lock washer; 12 - tie bolt; 13 - an adjusting washer; 14 - brush spring; 15 - brush; 16 - case; 17 - anchorUnscrew the nut on the lower contact bolt of the traction relay 8 (Fig. 7.20) and disconnect the output of the stator winding from it.Unscrew the screws securing the traction relay and remove it. Disconnect the armature 7 of the relay from the lever 6 of the drive. Remove the rubber plug with washer from the front cover.Unscrew the screws and remove the protective cover 10. Remove the lock washer 11, unscrew the tie bolts 12 and disconnect the housing 16 with the rear cover 9 from the front cover 5 with the armature 17.Unscrew the screws securing the stator winding leads to the brush holders and detach the housing from the back cover. Remove springs 14 and brushes 15.Remove the retaining 1 and limiting 2 rings and disconnect the armature from the drive 3.Unscrew and remove the lever shaft 4 from the front cover. Disconnect the lever 6 from the drive and remove the drive 3 from the front cover. The drive is disassembled after removing the lock washer from the coupling hub.To disassemble the traction relay, unscrew the screws securing its cover and unsolder the winding leads from the "50" plug and from the tip attached to the lower contact bolt of the traction relay.After disassembly, blow out the parts with compressed air and wipe clean.Checking the technical condition of partsAnchor . Check with a megohmmeter or with a lamp supplied with a voltage of 220 V, whether there is no short circuit of the armature winding to ground.The voltage through the lamp is applied to the collector plates and to the armature core. Burning of the lamp indicates a short circuit of the winding or collector plates with ground. When checked, the megohmmeter should show a resistance of at least 10 kOhm. Replace the anchor with a short circuit to ground.Use a special device to check if there are any short circuits between the sections of the armature winding or the collector plates, as well as if there are any breaks at the soldering point of the winding sections to the collector plates.Inspect the working surface of the manifold. If it is dirty or burnt, clean it with a fine-grained abrasive paper.Check the runout of the core against the shaft journals. If it is more than 0.08 mm, replace the anchor.Check the condition of the surfaces of the splines and journals of the armature shaft. They should be free of scoring, nicks and wear. If yellow marks from the pinion bushing appear on the surface of the shaft, remove them with a fine-grained abrasive paper, as they can cause the pinion to jam on the shaft.Drive unit . The starter drive must move freely on the armature shaft without noticeable jamming. The gear should turn relative to the armature shaft in the direction of rotation of the armature under the action of a torque of no more than 0.27 Nm (2.8 kgfcm). The gear must not turn in the opposite direction. If there are nicks on the leading edge of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained small-diameter emery wheel.If the drive parts are damaged or significantly worn, replace the drive with a new one.Stator. Check with a megohmmeter or with a lamp supplied with a voltage of 220 V, whether there is no short circuit of the stator winding to ground. The voltage through the lamp is supplied to the common terminal of the winding and to the starter housing. If the lamp is on or the megohmmeter shows a resistance of less than 10 kOhm, or if the windings have traces of overheating (blackening of the insulation), replace the case with the windings.Covers. Check the covers for cracks. If present, replace the covers with new ones. Check the condition of the rear cover bushings and the clutch housing. If they are worn out, replace the rear cover and clutch housing.Check that the brush holders are securely attached to the rear cover. The brush holders of the positive brushes must not have a short circuit with ground. The brushes should move freely in the grooves of the brush holders. Replace brushes worn in height up to 12 mm with new ones.Check the pressure of the springs on the brushes with a dynamometer, which for new brushes should be 9.8 ± 0.98 N (1 ± 0.1) kgf and, if necessary, replace the springs with new ones.

Traction relay. Check the ease of movement of the relay armature. Check with an ohmmeter whether the contact bolts of the relay are closed by the contact plate. Check with an ohmmeter for an open circuit in the traction relay windings.If there is an open circuit in the relay windings, or the contact bolts of the relay with a contact plate do not close, then replace the relay with a new one.Before assembly, lubricate the helical splines of the armature shaft and freewheel hubs, gear and bushing of the rear cover with engine oil. Lubricate the drive drive ring with Litol-24 grease.Starter assembly is performed in the reverse order of disassembly. By selecting the thickness of the adjusting washer 13 (see Fig. 7.20), ensure the axial free travel of the armature no more than 0.5 mm. Slide an insulating plastic tube over the pinch bolt near the stator winding leads.After assembly, check the starter on the bench.Before installing the starter on the power unit, lubricate the front sleeve of the starter armature shaft, which is located in the clutch housing, with engine oil.