In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the yamz 236 starter from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF THE STARTER FOR ENGINES YAMZ-236N, YAMZ-236NE2, YAMZ-236NE, YAMZ-236BE2, YAMZ-236BE, YAMZ-236B
1 Unscrew the nuts securing the manifold cover.
2 Unscrew the nuts from the terminal bolts and remove the bar.
3 Unscrew and remove the two tie rods.
4 Remove the manifold side cover.
5 Unscrew the screws securing the brush cables and, lifting the brush springs, remove the brushes from the brush holders.
7 Unscrew the screws securing the casing, disconnect the relay from the casing and remove it together with the casing.
8 Remove the housing together with the field coils.
9 Unscrew the six screws and remove the drive cover.
10 Remove the armature from the drive housing.
11 Remove the actuator from the housing.
12 Unscrew the screws securing the lever axle and remove the axle from the mounting holes of the housing and the lever.
14 Unscrew the screws securing the washer and remove the washer.
15 Remove the oil seal from the drive housing.
Assemble the starter in the reverse order of disassembly. Before assembly, lubricate the splines and necks of the armature shaft, the washer between the armature iron and the drive housing, the thrust washer with Litol-24 grease (GOST 21150-87). Remove the felt, replace it if necessary and soak it with engine oil used to lubricate the engine before filling.
If necessary, replace the lock washers, O-rings, sealing washers and gaskets during assembly.
For some time now, I began to notice that when starting the MAZ engine, the starter began to turn reluctantly. And what is the strangest thing is twisting so with some inconstant periodicity. That is, for two days it turns normally, and at some point it switches to a lazy start-up. The impression was created of the last days of the life of the batteries. But the batteries were quite fresh, the light was bright even with the motor turned off and the voltmeter showed decent voltage. But the starter still hasn't brought any surprises, and I myself have forgotten to confess when he let me down and I did it.
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Video (click to play). |
Having judged all this, I came to the conclusion about the need for the starter to be repaired. In order not to delay the process of repairing the starter, I bought in advance 3 armature bushings and a new set of brushes. The plan was as follows. Everything breaks down from old age and it is necessary to qualitatively repair the starter and again forget about it for many years.
Removing the starter from the MAZ engine is not a difficult task, but it cannot be called conveniently easy. It weighs a lot, is attracted to the block on two belts. If you also lie down under it yourself, then the operation to remove it on your outstretched arms is not very pleasant.
In order to facilitate it, I did the following. First, disconnect the battery ground, then unscrew the small bolt on the side of the retractor relay and remove the retractor control wiring. Then, with the head, he unscrewed the power cable from the solenoid relay and removed it along with the wire going to the car's network. Then he unscrewed the first tie for fastening the starter from the flywheel side and proceeded to unscrew the next tie, but did not unscrew it to the end. Himself during these actions was between the spring and the wheel. (Before removing the starter, it is advisable to turn the front wheels to the left to the full. This will allow you to be in more free space.) Then he held the starter with his right hand, and unscrewed the clamp to the end with his left hand. After unscrewing the last clamp, I always tried to pull out the starter and put it on the track rod and front beam, and then lower it to the ground. If you are not confident in your abilities, then you can use a board laid across the right spring under the starter. This will also allow you to remove the starter in two steps and will not strain you too much.
The starter removed the cleaned and proceeded to disassemble.To do this, unscrew the bolts and nut on the front end of the starter. He also unscrewed the nut for removing the busbar trunking from the solenoid relay to the starter and removed it. He unscrewed four bolts on the cover of the Bendix fork mechanism. Then he unscrewed two long studs tightening the starter and pulled them out of the case, and also removed the retractor relay for disassembly. After that, I completely disassembled the starter. On the anchor of the starter manifold there were no marks, scuffs, irregularities. The starter anchor had play in the bushings, but the anchor did not shoe.
I decided to replace the brushes and bushings at once. To do this, I repressed the copper-graphite bushings in the starter housing and unrolled them at a familiar turner. The armature winding and the stator shunt winding rang sequentially. Everything was normal. After that, I installed the anchor in the rear hull and assembled the bendix. Then I replaced the new brushes and closed the front starter cover. After that, I disassembled the front cover of the retractor relay, turned the contact washer with its clean, unburnt side, and brought the bolts of the contacts into one plane on the stone. Then I assembled the retractor relay, installed it on the case and checked the starter from the battery. In the starter, the inclusion of the bendex was easily triggered and the starter turned at idle.
In a word, I did not find any more faults and began to install the starter in place.
Installing a starter was not difficult for me. Usually, for this, he folded the first upper clamp, inserted it under the starter busbar and inserted it into place in two stages. That is, first I put the starter on the beam and the tie rod, and then pushed the starter into place, clicked the upper yoke of the starter attachment and grabbed it onto the attachment bolt. Then he put the second clamp in place and also screwed on the fastening bolt. Then the starter cranked until the starter engaged with the pin on the block and alternately tightened the starter mounting straps and put the removed wires in place. I switched on the mass and tried to start the engine. The engine started up cheerfully and I calmed myself with the thought that the repairs were carried out on time.
For several days nothing boded trouble and the engine started up as if on an alarm signal from a caring soldier. But after a while, during one unloading of the car, the starter only clicked the retractor relay and could not turn the engine. The situation was complicated by the fact that the crane was secured by my car and could not help me in any way. After checking all the terminals on the batteries and the starter, I tried to start the engine again. But this did not bring success and the starter could not even make a turn. The situation was clearly getting out of control, and besides, the place was deaf. There was nothing to jerk the car with. The crane driver was clearly beginning to get nervous. However, having reasoned wisely together, we decided to try the idiotic method. Just knock on the starter well with a hammer. I knocked on the starter stator, though hard, but not hoping for a decent result. To guarantee, we waited another five minutes for the batteries to rest. Climbing into the cockpit, I tried to start the engine, and it started as if nothing had happened. However, miracles.
Arriving at the garage and putting the car in place, I decided to start the engine again and, understandably, to no avail. The starter flatly refused to turn the engine. I had to take off the starter again and disassemble it. The anchor rang again. There were no breaks or short circuits of the windings to ground at the anchor. The brushes had already got used to the collector and the collector itself was even and smooth. Having made such an inspection, it became clear that the reason was in the starter stator.
View of the burst terminal of the shunt winding.
According to my reasoning, it turned out that there was either an open circuit in the winding or a short circuit of the winding to ground. But in order to surely ring the winding, you need to disconnect it from the stator mass. To do this, I unscrewed the bolt by 10 which screwed the second end of the winding. Carefully bending the winding terminal away from the mass, I tried to ring it. The winding was completely intact, and the light from the probe lamp indicated this. There was no electrical contact with the winding ground either.I had to screw the winding terminal into place. He began to remove the terminal of the second winding and was loosely tightened. Unscrew the bolt completely and removing the washer saw the tip of the terminal that fell from the washer. I did not expect such a turn of events. I tried to swing the winding for wiggling. The winding sat rigidly on the pole. Then this shunt winding rang. There were no breaks or short circuits to the stator ground. In a hurry, I just wanted to solder the broken end of the terminal, but on reflection I came to the conclusion that it would be unreliable. As a way out, I decided to simply put a washer with an increased outer diameter in order to press the remnants of the terminal over a larger area. Picking up a washer with an increased diameter and cleaning the end of the terminal, I screwed the terminal into place using a new grower washer /
View of the fixed terminal of the shunt winding.
View of the prepared starter before assembly.
Assembling the starter did not take much time, and its installation in place took place on the rise. So the engine was started, with a half turn, he habitually barked, blowing smoke from the chimney. And I forgot about the starter for a long time.
As a conclusion. Neither before nor after such a malfunction was ever observed in me.
But when repairing the starter, I made it a rule for myself to check the strength of the attachment of the shunt windings to the stator.
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(097) 056-05-93, (099) 429-92-85, (093) 651-44-42
MAZ starter repair. Repair of the ST-2501.3708 starter, Repair of the YaMZ starter. (097) 056-05-93
Maz starter responsible for the quick start of the engine. However, starter malfunctions usually occur at the most inopportune moment: the engine does not start, you can hear only the clicks of the relay, the buzzing of the starter. List all breakdowns of such a part as starter maz can be long. But you can't do without disassembling and repairing the starter. It is important to pay attention to all parts of the detail. Therefore, if you want to do maz starter repair correctly, read the recommendations of the specialists of the company "Hydro-Spets-Torg" on the replacement of spare parts.
If you do not have the time or opportunity to repair the MAZ (YaMZ) starter, then provide it to our specialists by calling (097) 056-05-93
For some time now I began to notice that when starting the engine MAZ starter began to twist reluctantly. And what is the strangest thing is twisting so with some inconstant periodicity. That is, for two days it turns normally, and at some point it switches to a lazy start-up. The impression was created of the last days of the batteries' life, but the batteries were quite fresh, the light was bright even with the motor turned off and the voltmeter showed a decent voltage. But the starter still hasn't brought any surprises, and I myself have forgotten to confess when he let me down and I did it.
Having judged all this, I came to the conclusion about the need for the starter to be repaired. In order not to delay the process starter repair 2501, bought in advance 3 armature bushings and a new set of brushes.The plan was as follows. Everything breaks down from old age and it is necessary to qualitatively repair the starter and again forget about it for many years.
Photo taken from the engine starter MAZ 2501.3708
Take off starter from the engine MAZ not a difficult task, but it cannot be called conveniently easy either. It weighs a lot, is attracted to the block on two belts. If you also lie down under it yourself, then the operation to remove it on your outstretched arms is not very pleasant.
In order to facilitate it, I did the following. First, disconnect the battery ground, then unscrew the small bolt on the side of the retractor relay and remove the retractor control wiring. Then, with the head, he unscrewed the power cable from the solenoid relay and removed it along with the wire going to the car's network. Then he unscrewed the first tie for fastening the starter from the flywheel side and proceeded to unscrew the next tie, but did not unscrew it to the end. Himself during these actions was between the spring and the wheel. (Before removing the starter, it is advisable to turn the front wheels to the left to the full. This will allow you to be in more free space.) Then he held the starter with his right hand, and unscrewed the clamp to the end with his left hand. After unscrewing the last clamp, I always tried to pull out the starter and put it on the track rod and front beam, and then lower it to the ground. If you are not confident in your abilities, then you can use a board laid across the right spring under the starter. This will also allow you to remove the starter in two steps and will not strain you too much.
The starter removed the cleaned and proceeded to disassemble. To do this, unscrew the bolts and nut on the front end of the starter. He also unscrewed the nut for removing the busbar trunking from the solenoid relay to the starter and removed it. He unscrewed four bolts on the cover of the Bendix fork mechanism. Then he unscrewed two long studs tightening the starter and pulled them out of the case, and also removed the retractor relay for disassembly. After that, I completely disassembled the starter. On the anchor of the starter manifold there were no marks, scuffs, irregularities. The starter anchor had play in the bushings, but the anchor did not shoe.
I decided to replace the brushes and bushings at once. To do this, I repressed the copper-graphite bushings in the starter housing and unrolled them at a familiar turner. The armature winding and the stator shunt winding rang sequentially. Everything was normal. After that, I installed the anchor in the rear hull and assembled the bendix. Then I replaced the new brushes and closed the front starter cover. After that, I disassembled the front cover of the retractor relay, turned the contact washer with its clean, unburnt side, and brought the bolts of the contacts into one plane on the stone. Then I assembled the retractor relay, installed it on the case and checked the starter from the battery. In the starter, the inclusion of the bendex was easily triggered and the starter turned at idle.
In a word, I did not find any more faults and began to install the starter in place.
Installing a starter was not difficult for me. Usually, for this, he folded the first upper clamp, inserted it under the starter busbar and inserted it into place in two stages. That is, first I put the starter on the beam and the tie rod, and then pushed the starter into place, clicked the upper yoke of the starter attachment and grabbed it onto the attachment bolt. Then he put the second clamp in place and also screwed on the fastening bolt. Then the starter cranked until the starter engaged with the pin on the block and alternately tightened the starter mounting straps and put the removed wires in place. I switched on the mass and tried to start the engine. The engine started up cheerfully and I calmed myself with the thought that the repairs were carried out on time.
For several days nothing boded trouble and the engine started up as if on an alarm signal from a caring soldier. But after a while, during one unloading of the car, the starter only clicked the retractor relay and could not turn the engine. The situation was complicated by the fact that the crane was secured by my car and could not help me in any way.After checking all the terminals on the batteries and the starter, I tried to start the engine again. But this did not bring success and the starter could not even make a turn. The situation was clearly getting out of control, and besides, the place was deaf. There was nothing to jerk the car with. The crane driver was clearly beginning to get nervous. However, having reasoned wisely together, we decided to try the idiotic method. Just knock on the starter well with a hammer. I knocked on the starter stator, though hard, but not hoping for a decent result. To guarantee, we waited another five minutes for the batteries to rest. Climbing into the cockpit, I tried to start the engine, and it started as if nothing had happened. However, miracles.
Arriving at the garage and putting the car in place, I decided to start the engine again and, understandably, to no avail. The starter flatly refused to turn the engine. I had to take off the starter again and disassemble it. The anchor rang again. There were no breaks or short circuits of the windings to ground at the anchor. The brushes had already got used to the collector and the collector itself was even and smooth. Having made such an inspection, it became clear that the reason was in the starter stator.
Photo of the broken clamps of the shunt winding of the MAZ (YaMZ) 2501.3708 starter
According to my reasoning, it turned out that there was either an open circuit in the winding or a short circuit of the winding to ground. But in order to surely ring the winding, you need to disconnect it from the stator mass. To do this, I unscrewed the bolt by 10 which screwed the second end of the winding. Carefully bending the winding terminal away from the mass, I tried to ring it. The winding was completely intact, and the light from the probe lamp indicated this. There was no electrical contact with the winding ground either. I had to screw the winding terminal into place. He began to remove the terminal of the second winding and was loosely tightened. Unscrew the bolt completely and removing the washer saw the tip of the terminal that fell from the washer. I did not expect such a turn of events. I tried to swing the winding for wiggling. The winding sat rigidly on the pole. Then this shunt winding rang. There were no breaks or short circuits to the stator ground. In a hurry, I just wanted to solder the broken end of the terminal, but on reflection I came to the conclusion that it would be unreliable. As a way out, I decided to simply put a washer with an increased outer diameter in order to press the remnants of the terminal over a larger area. Picking up a washer with an increased diameter and stripping the end of the terminal, I screwed the terminal into place using a new grower washer.
MAZ starter assembly did not take long, and its installation in place took place on the rise. So the engine was started, with a half turn, he habitually barked, blowing smoke from the chimney. And I forgot about the starter for a long time.
As a conclusion. Neither before nor after such a malfunction was ever observed in me. But when repairing the starter, I made it a rule for myself to check the strength of the attachment of the shunt windings to the stator.
Photo of the repaired MAZ (YaMZ) starter before assembly
MAZ starter repair, how to do it and where to start:
Maz starterlike any part in a modern car, it requires special care. Experts recommend conducting a thorough check of the operation of all mechanisms after 45-50 thousand kilometers. At each technical inspection of the part, do not forget to check the fastening of the wires to the terminals. Also, watch out for cleanliness, because if the starter grease contains dust, dirt, the part will not work normally.
Next, the maz starter must be carefully removed from the engine, after disconnecting the truck battery. After inspecting the condition of the manifold, like the starter of the Maz, the manifold should be smooth, without any burns.
If you find contamination, wipe the surface with a cloth, having previously moistened it in gasoline. remember, that Belarusian starter YAMZ should not contain even the smallest traces of burn. Therefore, if burns persist, try treating starter Belarusian small sandpaper.
The brush holder of the electric brush can move freely in the starter.Therefore, if you hear at the engine factory that the Belarusian starter clicks or cracks, the repair of the MAZ starter is carried out with the measurement of the height of the electric brushes. You should also check the tightness of elements such as bushings, screws. Tighten them if necessary. Naturally, if the Belarusian starter is not securely fixed, the part may detach from the body during movement.
Belarusian starters require the relay contacts to be in good condition. If you find padgars, also remove them. MAZ starter repair also requires prophylaxis. So some experts pour engine oil into the oil cans. Do not overdo it with a dose - add 7-10 drops of oil to the Belarusian starter. If the repair of the starter motor is finished, install it, then check the adjustment of the traction relay.
Repair of starters for MAZ trucks should be carried out in a timely manner. Otherwise you will have to buy starter maz ... Therefore, we advise you to monitor the condition of the starter. Buy starter maz you can in our catalog. The range includes the highest quality models of parts. Belarusian starters MAZ have proven themselves well in various conditions. Choose the best - and maz starter repair you don't need it!
MAZ starter applicability table
The ST-103 starter is installed on the YaMZ-236 and YaMZ-238 engines of all modifications (Fig. 104). It is best to check and adjust the starter on a special test bench mod. 2214. However, it is possible to check the starter without a stand. After cleaning from dust and dirt, the starter is tested in two operating modes: idling with no load and with full braking. In the first case, the voltage at the starter terminals, the consumed current and the number of shaft revolutions are measured; in the second case, the torque that must be applied to keep the starter armature from rotating is measured. Instructions for checking the starter at the stand are set out in the instructions attached to the stand mod. 2214. In the absence of a stand, the starter can be fixed in a vice.
For a no-load test, a DC voltmeter with a scale of up to 30 V, a DC ammeter with a
for middle bearings. After reaming through the holes for the nipples 25, 14, 9, drill holes with a diameter of 5.8 mm for the felt and remove the burrs. In the armature of the relay, using a test lamp, they are convinced that there is no short circuit of the armature winding to the iron package. To do this, connect one tip from the lamp to the iron package, the other to each of the anchor lamellas. The lamp should not be lit.
The armature should be checked for the absence of turn-to-turn short-circuits on the PPYa-5 induction device. When detecting turn-to-turn short-circuits or short-circuit of the winding to the package, the armature is replaced. The armature must also be replaced if the wires protrude from the armature slots. This indicates a spacing of the winding. An anchor collector with burnt spots and protruding mica between the plates must be sharpened, followed by grinding with fine glass cloth. The runout of the collector relative to the bearing journals of the shaft should not exceed 0.05 mm. During repair, the collector can be machined to a diameter of 56.0 mm. The collector with a diameter of less than 56 mm cannot be repaired, but is replaced with a new one.
mm. In this case, its runout relative to the armature shaft should not exceed 0.15 mm. Damaged anchor bands must be replaced. New bandages are made of tinned steel wire. The outer bandages are wound in 10-11 turns, on the middle ones, 7-8 turns. Each bandage is crimped with five staples. The beginning and end of the wire should be under the bracket. After winding, the new band should be soldered with solder. The runout of the iron of the armature relative to the necks of the shaft should not exceed 0.15 mm.
in the starter drive relay, the serviceability of the retractor and holding windings is checked using an ohmmeter. The ohmmeter connection diagram is shown in Fig. 106. The resistance of a serviceable retraction winding should be 0.7-1.1 Ohm, holding 4.2-5.8 Ohm at a temperature of 20 ° C. A significant difference in the value of resistances from those indicated indicates either turn-to-turn closures in the windings or a short circuit to the case ... In this case, the stater relay is replaced.
To inspect the relay contact system, it is necessary to unscrew the four screws of the relay cover and remove the cover. In doing so, care must be taken to ensure that the lead-out end of the retraction winding is not damaged. The working surfaces of the contact bolts and the disc must be clean, without significant burning. If the contact surfaces of the bolts burn, they should be cleaned with a file and polished with fine glass cloth. In case of significant wear of the contact surfaces, the bolts should be turned 180 ° in their sockets.
If the contact surface is deeply burned out, the contact disc must be rearranged on the other side. When both sides are worn out, the disc is replaced. The disc must be closed to the case. It is easy to check with a test lamp.
The parts of the drive mechanism must not have mechanical damage and must ensure free movement of the drive gear along the tape thread of the armature shaft. The drive gear must not have chipped teeth or nicks, otherwise the gear is replaced. Tooth wear is allowed up to a tooth length of 26 mm. A drum with the development of a thrust platform (under the finger of the switching lever) in an oblique groove or with the destruction of the soldering of the end walls must also be replaced.
During the operation of the starter, wear or destruction of the thrust ring leash and its crackers are possible. Worn and damaged parts must be replaced. Brushes are replaced in the presence of cracks, chips and other mechanical damage, as well as when worn up to a height of 14 mm. Assembling the starter. A fiber washer is put on shaft 6 (see Fig. 104) from the side of the collector, and from the drive side, the middle bearing holder 13, thrust washers, drum 3 assembled, gear 5 with a leash 4 and a spring, install a thrust ring 7 with breadcrumbs and a cup , protecting crackers from falling out. Before assembly, the spline part of the shaft is lubricated with grease 1-13 (GOST 1631-61) with 3% colloidal graphite S-1 or S-2 (GOST 5261-50).
and a thrust ring 10 on the starter shaft alternately gaskets with a thickness of 16 and 11.7 mm (size a) and including the starter, by lighting up the lamp determine the correct adjustment of the relay. When laying with a thickness of 16 mm, contacts 5 and 6 should not close and light 3 should not be lit, when laying with a thickness of 11.7 mm, the contacts should close and the lamp must be on. If the adjustment does not ensure the fulfillment of the specified conditions, it is necessary to re-adjust with the thrust screw 8 screwed into the relay armature. If the relay contacts are closed too late (the lamp does not light up with a 11.7 mm gasket), the adjusting screw must be unscrewed from the armature, in case of early closure (the light is on with a 16 mm gasket), screw it in. To screw in or out the screw, unpin the pin and disconnect the relay rods from the control lever. After the end of the adjustment, the wire from the starter is connected to the relay and the lamp is disconnected, with which the closure of the relay contacts was controlled.
To carry out repairs, the starter is removed from the engine by unscrewing the bolts of the clamping clamps.
Dismantling the starter should be done in the following order:
- remove the protective tape 1 (see Fig. 1);
- unscrew the screws 26 for fastening the brush ropes and, lifting the brush springs 25, remove the brushes from the brush holders;
- unpin the connection of the lever 12 with the rods 11 of the traction relay armature and remove the pin 35;
- unscrew and remove two tie rods 33;
- remove the housing together with the traction relay;
- unscrew the four bolts of the intermediate bearing holder 22;
- remove the armature 2 from the cover 14 together with the drive;
- remove two crackers installed in the slots under the thrust ring 17;
- remove the drive assembly from the armature shaft.
Parts and assemblies of the starter must be carefully inspected for detecting malfunctions and breakdowns. The covers on the drive and manifold side must not be cracked or damaged;
- gear teeth and electric brushes should not have chips; the leading finger installed in the lever 12 must be securely fixed in the lever and not have a workout;
- the springs of the electric brushes must not be damaged. Worn and damaged parts must be replaced.Electric brushes with a height of less than 14 mm must also be replaced (the height of the brushes is measured from the point where the spring touches the ground in the working surface). Contact bolts 5 and contact disc 6 of the traction relay should not have burns on the working surface. In case of burning, the contacts are restored using the methods described in the description of the maintenance of the starter.
The traction relay is checked for the integrity of the retractor and holding windings and for turn short circuits. The check is carried out with ampere-voltmeters Ts437, Ts20 or any others that allow measuring resistances with an accuracy of 0.1 Ohm. The resistance of the pull-in winding is measured. It should be 0.9 ± 0.2 ohms. The resistance of the holding winding should be 5 ± 0.8 ohms. It should be remembered that the resistance values are indicated for cold (cold) coils (temperature, ambient temperature 20 ± 5˚С). If the resistance of the coils differs from the above values, then the coils have turn short circuits and the relay must be replaced.
At the starter armature, it is necessary to inspect the collector, check the winding for a turn circuit and on the case. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the two oval holes located on the shaft splines. The holes should not have rectangular protrusions. This development leads to seizure of the drive mechanism during start-up, and the armature must be replaced.
The surface of the armature manifold is wiped or scraped as shown in the maintenance description.
If necessary, the groove of the collector is then sanded with fine sandpaper. The size of the collector after grinding must be at least 56.05 mm.
The armature is checked using PPYa-5, PPYa-533 instruments, at the stands "Emet-54", "Electrotester" or others with a prism and a transformer device for checking the armatures.
After wiping and cleaning from dust and accumulated dirt, the starter stator is checked for a short circuit of the windings to the case. Pre-unscrew two bolts inside the stator, securing the tires to the housing. The check is carried out with a 110 or 127 V control lamp included in the set of instruments or stands. Defective coils must be removed, the damaged area insulated and reinstalled in the housing. After fixing the pole pieces with the coils, the starter housing must be punched out to prevent the screws securing the coils from loosening.
It is also necessary to check the support bushings of the starter armature shaft installed in the covers 14 and 31 (see Fig. 1). The bushing in the cover 14 on the drive side can be worn out to a size of no more than 19.615 mm. The size of the sleeve in the cover 31 from the side of the collector should not exceed 18.105 mm. If the dimensions of the bushings are larger than the specified ones, the bushings must be replaced. The inner diameter of the bushings after pressing and boring should be:
- in the cover from the drive side 19.5 + 0.045mm;
- in the cover from the collector side 18.0 + 0.035mm.
After replacement of parts and repairs, the starter is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly. In this case, the bolts 21 (see Fig. 1) fastening the intermediate bearing holder 22 must be put on the BF-4 glue. The lubrication holes under the screw plugs 10, 16 and 27 must be filled with 10 drops of turbine or engine oil. The splines of the armature shaft are lubricated with CILTIM-203 grease before assembly. In the assembled and lubricated starter, the armature should turn easily, by hand, when force is applied to the gear 15.
The assembled starter must be adjusted; for this, the starter must be clamped in a vice or a device that ensures its immobility. The circuit shown in Fig. 2. Connect a 24V test lamp and install a 16mm shim between the gear and the thrust washer. Switch 3 is turned on. After the starter traction relay has tripped, the lamp should not light up. When installing a gasket with a thickness of 11.7 mm, the lamp should light up when the relay is activated. If these conditions are not met, the traction relay is regulated: when the lamp lights up and the gasket is 16 mm, it is necessary to screw the screw into the armature 9 of the relay (see Fig. 1); a non-illuminating lamp when laying 11.7 mm requires unscrewing the screw from the armature.The design of the shims is shown in Fig. 3.
The adjusted starter is tested for no-load current from a 24 V battery or from a DC source of the same voltage. The operating current of the starter should not exceed 110 A. If the current is significantly higher, then the starter armature is turning hard and fine-tuning is necessary.
A tested and adjusted starter can be fitted to the engine. In this case, it must be remembered that the fastening of the starter installed on the engine may loosen after several starting attempts. Therefore, after installing the starter on the engine, it is recommended to make 3 - 5 test short starts and finally tighten the bolts of the starter fastening clamps. The tightening torque should be 3 kgcm.
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Repair of electrical equipment of the YaMZ-236 engine
During the operation of the units, protect their electrical equipment from the ingress of oil and water; be careful when washing the engine.
At every maintenance of electrical equipment generator of the YaMZ-236 engine you should check the quality of fastening the wires to the terminals of the generator and to the relay-regulators, you should also check the tension of the alternator drive belts, the quality of fastening the generator to the engine. Clean the generator from dirt and dust periodically.
Repair of the generator of the YaMZ-236 engine should be carried out in the following order:
Dismantling the generator from the YaMZ-236 engine and cleaning it from dust and dirt, before removing the generator, turn off the main switch, because the plus terminal is energized;
If necessary, the generator can be disassembled, but this should only be done in a specially equipped workshop;
Checking the height of the brushes and the pressure of the brush springs, the height of the brush from the spring to the brush base should not be less than 8mm. If the brushes and brush holder are worn out, then these parts are replaced. When replacing brushes, check the slip rings, they may need a groove, after groove the minimum allowable ring diameter is 29.3mm;
If, when inspecting the ball bearings, defects and damage are found on them, then they must be replaced.
After completion, place the generator on a dedicated stand and check wiring and sensors of the YaMZ-236 engine... Checking the wiring and sensors is performed when the zero terminal of the starter winding is disconnected from the regulator terminal.
Repair of the starter of the YaMZ-236 engine
Periodically check the quality of the attachment of the tips in the starter wiring. You should also check the terminals battery of the YaMZ-236 engine they must be cleaned of oxidation, deposits and dirt. Disassembly YaMZ-236 engine starter and its repair should take place only after the expiration of the warranty period, and only in a specially equipped workshop.
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After the starter has been removed from the engine, the protective tape and the manifold cover are removed. The working surface of the collector must not have burnt spots and must be clean. Minor burn and dirt can be cleaned with a cloth soaked in gasoline. It is also possible to eliminate the collector burnout by a groove on the machine to a cleanliness of R = 1.25, the minimum allowable collector diameter is 56.05 mm. If the burn cannot be removed with a groove, then it is necessary replacement of the YaMZ-236 engine starter.
