DIY vaz 2110 generator stator repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the stator of a VAZ 2110 generator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Is the belt OK, the alternator is spinning, but the battery is not receiving a charge? Do not rush to rush to the service station, giving away your hard-earned money, because self-disassembly and repair of the VAZ 2110 generator, maintenance and repair can be done by almost any motorist. It is enough just to get acquainted with a modest theoretical base.

We remove the generator from the hood of the car:

In order to repair the VAZ 2110 generator, you first need to remove it from the car by loosening the belt tension and loosening the mounting bolts. Let's take a closer look at the process of dismantling it:

1. Disconnect the battery power by removing and swinging its negative terminal to the side;
2. Disconnect the generator excitation wire plug. Throw aside the protective cap and use a 10 key to unscrew the contact nut of the B + clamp, remove the wires;
3. Completely unscrew the belt tension adjusting bolt;
4. Unscrew the upper and lower fastening nuts of the VAZ generator, remove the bolts from the mounting holes together with the tension bar;
5. Now the generator is free and can be easily removed from the hood of the car.

Dismantling the VAZ 2110 generator

To check the operation of the generator components, it is necessary to sequentially disassemble it, for which it is necessary:

1. Fold back the plastic protective casing by prying three fastening latches with a screwdriver;
2. The voltage regulator in this model of the VAZ 2110 generator is made on a common monolithic structure with graphite brushes and is fastened with two bolts;
3. Unscrew them and remove the voltage regulator to the side;
4. Unscrew the M10 nut of the B + terminal. Remove the grover, washer from the mounting bolt and disconnect the capacitor terminal;
5. Disconnect the capacitor, which is mounted on a bolt under a screwdriver cross;
6. To remove the rectifier unit - it is necessary to unscrew the four fastening bolts, which are also the contacts of the terminals for the stator windings;
7. Now, turning aside the stator winding leads, you can disconnect the rectifier unit.

Video (click to play).

Please note that it is already possible to draw certain conclusions about the condition of the generator by separately checking the voltage regulator, capacitor, rectifier unit and the condition of the graphite brushes. If the problem goes deeper, we continue to repair the VAZ 2110 generator with our own hands. It remains only to remove the rotor and stator windings, for which:

1. Remove the back cover by unscrewing the four mounting bolts with the grovers. Prying it off with a screwdriver, it should give in to the force relatively easily, jumping off the rotor bearing seat. Previously, it is worth making notes on the stator housing and covers, in order to then put them in exactly the same position;
2. Having clamped the rotor of the VAZ generator in a vice (control the force so as not to deform the shaft), unscrew the fastening nut of the pulley with the grover and remove the pulley from the front of the shaft. Don't forget the thrust washer.

Almost everything is ready. Now you can remove the stator and rotor from the housing for checking and diagnostics. If necessary, the bearings are removed with a special puller. Check the lubrication in them, the presence of play (wear) and extraneous noise when turning.

After the procedure for the final disassembly of the generator, it will not be superfluous to check the condition of its stator and rotor windings for breakage and penetration into the housing. Do-it-yourself generator repair VAZ 2110 will require a multimeter (a multifunctional device that measures electrical quantities. It can cost from 150 rubles to 1000 or more, depending on the quality and manufacturer). The cheapest is enough for you.

Checking the generator with a tester

one.Check the resistance of the rotor winding with a device against the slip rings. It doesn't have to show infinity;
2. Immediately check the condition of the manifold running surface. It must be perfect. Otherwise, they require grinding, grooving on a lathe, or making new ones;
3. Relative to the case (ferromagnetic core), the resistance of the multimeter should show infinity;
4. Similarly, check the condition of the stator windings for integrity and breakdown with respect to the housing. Resistance in all three dimensions (relative to the three working leads) should be the same or with slight deviations.

Repair of the VAZ 2110 generator can also be caused by problems with the diodes of the rectifier unit and the voltage regulator. In both cases, their diagnosis will not be difficult.

Functionally, each diode must pass current, like a water valve, in only one direction. Thus, the multimeter set for continuity of the electronics will show the resistance of the diodes only with direct connection of the measuring terminals (about 300-500 Ohm) and infinity with the opposite.

Checking the operation of the voltage regulator is somewhat more difficult. It is advisable to get acquainted with the photo, which explains the principle of its action. The main task of the LV is to protect the battery from overcharging by controlling the level of the voltage produced by the generator from the rectifier bridge at a level of 14 V.

Welcome!
A generator is an electrical device that delivers current to the car's on-board network and charges the battery when the engine is running, if it fails, then the first problem that starts with the car is the battery charge lamp (we'll talk about this lamp a little later) and on the car in the direct sense after that you can't drive, the whole point is that the ignition system of any car that runs on gasoline consumes electricity and conducts it (high-voltage wires, spark plugs and other units are supplied with electricity), thereby the engine is running, and if suddenly the battery runs out and current will no longer be supplied to the on-board network, then the car will simply stall and will not start again until the battery is charged again.

Read also: Thermopot polaris DIY repair

Note!
To carry out the generator repair procedure, you will need to stock up on: Necessarily a multi-meter and, if possible, a control lamp, as well as a screwdriver, various kinds of keys (spanners, caps, and so on), in addition, you will also need a marker and a fine-grained skin!

Summary:

Note!
As you already understood, the best way to check is with the help of a multi-meter, which has a voltmeter function (and everyone has one), so if you still decide to check it, then remember the current that should be on the battery when the engine is running is equal to about 13-14.5 volts, if it is less then either the battery is completely discharged, or the generator has become unusable, in this case, try to accelerate, for this, briefly press the gas pedal and remove your foot from it, if the current supply has increased, then the battery is discharged , if nothing happened, then try to do this again and remember, if the current is less than 12 volts, which is no longer acceptable, then after a very short time the battery will be completely discharged and you will no longer be able to start the car (To start the car, you need at least 11.5 volts , if the battery produces less, then starting the engine will already be problematic)!

Note!
The generator is not very difficult to understand, it is difficult to check it, especially if you don’t know how to use the multi-meter, and even if you can, there may still be errors, it’s just that the multi-meter will not always be able to show accurate data (Each has its own error) and therefore we recommend that you, before proceeding to work on disassembly, simply disconnect the cover from the generator and check the brushes (They most often fail) and, if necessary, replace them with new ones (By the way, if only one brushes are worn out, then even the generator can not be removed from the car,just disconnect the cover from it and, armed with a short screwdriver, unscrew the two screws that fasten the voltage regulator and then take out the regulator, look at the very brushes that are located on it and which must be replaced with strong wear)!

Disassembly:
1) First, remove it (How to remove a generator, read the article: "Replacing a generator on VAZ cars"), then on the sides, bend three latches that attach the plastic cover, thanks to which dirt and water does not get into the generator, after the latches will be bent (just do not break them), remove the cover from the generator and put it aside, as shown in the small photo.

2) Then unscrew the two side screws that attach the voltage regulator to the generator (the screws are indicated by red arrows, and the regulator itself is blue) and then remove the regulator from the generator, well, only when you take it off, disconnect the wiring from it like in the photo in the corner shown, otherwise the regulator simply will not be removed from the car generator.

4) After that, unscrew the four screws that secure the diode bridge to the generator and bend the three wire leads that are connected to the diode bridge so that they allow it to be removed and do not interfere at all, after the operation done, do not rush to remove the diode bridge, but unscrew another screw that the capacitor secures or unscrew the nut that secures the wire coming from it, and only then can you remove the diode bridge from the generator, you can read more about this capacitor below.

Note!
Capacitor - thanks to it, the current coming from the diode bridge is leveled and goes to the battery more even, without interruptions and without strong fluctuations, you can remove it both together with the diode bridge, and separately, if you want together, just unscrew the screw that secures it (Indicated red arrow) and then remove, if you want separately, then unscrew the nut which attaches the capacitor wire to the hairpin (indicated by the blue arrow) and then remove this wire from the hairpin!

5) Next, take the marker in your hands and make a mark on both covers as shown in the small photo, after these marks are made, unscrew four screws in a circle (Three of them are indicated by arrows, one is not visible) and disconnect both covers.

6) Next, unscrew the nut that secures the generator pulley (It is indicated by the red arrow) and then remove the pulley, it can be most easily unscrewed by clamping the rotor (This is only when the covers are already disconnected) in a vice, but just clamp it gently, and even better put some cloth, as soon as the nut is unscrewed, remove the rotor shaft from the bearing which is in the cover (see small photo), then remove the spacer ring from the shaft and inspect it.

7) And at the end of all operations, inspect the last parts and check some of them, namely, inspect both covers, there should be no cracks or traces of deformation on them, check both bearings (Front and rear), they must rotate normally, do not stick where they should not and grease should not flow from them either, otherwise the bearings are pressed out using a special puller and replaced with new ones, then take the stator in your hands and inspect it, it should be in good condition and there should be absolutely no bare wiring, using a test lamp, check it, for this, turn on the control to the 220 Volt network and alternately connect it between all the terminals as shown in photo 1, with each connection the lamp should light up, otherwise the stator is faulty and the stator still needs to be checked if it does not close to ground, this is also done easily and with the help of the same control lamp, see f from 2, there the lamp is alternately connected to all terminals of the stator winding, and the wire from the current source to the stator case, but only in this case the lamp should not light, if it is on, then this means that there is a short circuit and the stator must be replaced with a new one.

Assembly:
All the parts are assembled in the reverse order, only during assembly, orient the covers as they were installed before (Everything is done according to the marks), and the spring washer of the generator pulley will need to be placed with the convex side to the nut and the pulley fastening nut, tighten with a torque of 39- 62 N • m (3.9-b, 2 kgf • m), which can be done with a torque wrench and what else, during assembly, orient the capacitor (if you removed it together with the diode bridge) relative to the mounting protrusion on the cover , just like it is in the photo below.

Additional video clip:
You can see the process of overhauling the generator on VAZ 2110 cars in the video below:

Note!
Another process of disassembling and assembling the generator is shown in another video, you can also find it just below:The purpose of the generator device in any car is to provide power to all energy consumers, as well as to replenish the battery charge. If this unit fails, the equipment in the car will be powered by the battery, and the latter, in turn, will not be able to charge. Therefore, when the first signs of malfunctions appear, the car owner should engage in diagnostics and repairs. How to repair a VAZ 2110 generator with your own hands, you can find a video and a photo of this process below.For what reasons, the generator unit does not charge, what to do if the device does not work on the injector, how to remove the unit, how to disassemble it in order to replace the slip rings? First, let's take a look at the structure of the mechanism, as well as the principle of its operation.

a housing in which all components are located and equipped with a bracket with which bolting is carried out;

rotor or armature with collector;

stator;

voltage regulator with brushes;

pulley;

rectifier unit.

As for the principle of operation, the generator unit converts the rotational motion that comes from a working power unit into electricity. By means of a belt drive, the force is transmitted from the pulley. When the rotor device rotates, a magnetic flux is generated in the mechanism, its power is regulated by a regulator.The voltage itself comes from the collector rings to the brush assembly. The rectifier unit, which structurally consists of diode elements, supplies energy in one direction. Thanks to the regulator, the output voltage will be in the range from 13.6 to 14.7 volts. As for the rotation of the shaft of the rotor mechanism, it is carried out in bearing devices, and the ease of rotation depends on their correct operation.If there are malfunctions in the operation of the VAZ 2110 16 valve generator unit and there is no excitation, then first of all you need to check the power wire. The diagram will help you do this.Before unscrewing the pulley and disassembling the mechanism for its repair, modification or installation of protection against water, the unit must be tested.Moreover, the diagnostics of the device is carried out on the installed generator; for verification, you will need a digital voltmeter or multimeter:

The engine must be turned off; in this state, the voltage in the on-board network of the vehicle is tested. On average, this figure should be around 11-13 volts.

After the measurement, the car engine must be started, then the measurement procedure is repeated. In the event that after one minute the values on the display do not change, then the generating set will not charge. If the device is working, then the value of the voltage in the mains will increase to 14.2-14.7 volts. In the event that the voltage exceeds the threshold of 14.7 volts, this indicates that the regulator is not working.

If the problem is that the generator unit is howling or whistling, then you should first diagnose the tension of the drive belt. In the event that the belt is poorly tensioned, it will need to be adjusted (video by Dmitry Pristrom).

Read also: DIY bate starter repair

So, why does the generator device heat up and hum, how to protect the unit from the effects of water?We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main causes of unit malfunctions: Image - DIY repair of the stator of the VAZ 2110 generator

In what cases it is required to remove and replace the unit:

How to replace a device with your own hands:

How to sort out this unit in the "Top Ten" with your own hands and get rid of malfunctions - a detailed guide is given in the video below (video by Denis Legostaev).

It is not uncommon for car drivers to face a problem. The generator provides little or no battery power.
What to do, especially if the charge lamp on the instrument panel is on? It's simple. The generator needs to be repaired.

As you know, over time, some elements of the generator become unusable. This also applies to the component of the VAZ 2110 car.
Repairing a generator in this case will require a little patience and a set of necessary tools. And you can always buy a new one, but why spend money if you can do everything yourself?
In general, it is recommended to change it after 50 thousand kilometers.

When repairing a generator, you will need the following tools:

socket wrench 17 (it must have a special extension);
wrench 10;
ohmmeter;
three-grip puller;
a special mandrel to help extrude the front bearing;
a special mandrel to help push out the rear bearing.

These tools will actually help carry out all dismantling works on the VAZ 2110 on their own. The generator, the repair of which is directly related to dismantling, implies the following actions.

Correctly removing a part means already doing half of the job. In this case, you will need to do the following:

lift the car onto the overpass or drive into the inspection pit;
remove the battery by first loosening the terminals (dismantling the battery is needed in order to provide convenient access to the upper nut that fixes the generator);
unscrew the nut that fixes the generator with the adjusting bar (during the operation, use a socket wrench 17 with an extension);

dismantling a generator on a vaz 2110

first you need to remove the mudguard, which is located in the engine compartment;
then remove the alternator drive belt;
disconnect the wires from the center terminal of the stator and terminal 67;

remove the protective cap;
unscrew the nut that fixes the tip with the plus terminal to the battery (in this operation, a 10 key is used);

removing the nut securing the tip

after that, unscrew the nut fixing the generator with the bracket using the 19 socket wrench (the bracket is located on the surface of the cylinder block);
remove the long bolt and remove the generator.

Carrying out this operation, you need to be very careful so as not to lose the buffer sleeve.

To carry out work of this type, it is necessary:

thoroughly clean the generator from dirt;
using an ohmmeter, connect the positive wire to the terminal, and the negative wire to the generator case (if a value close to zero is shown, this means a breakdown of one of the diodes or a short circuit of the stator winding);

we check the positive diodes (using the above method, only the negative wire is connected to one of the bolts holding the rectifier unit);
we check the reliability of the fit of the brushes with slip rings and the absence of a short circuit in the excitation winding (we connect the ohmmeter wire to the terminal located on the surface of the generator);
remove the brush holder and make several clicks on the brushes (if they move easily, then everything is fine, and if not, then it should be replaced);
we check the absence of a short circuit in the rotor winding on the generator (we connect the ohmmeter wire to the generator case, the other one to the rotor ring and look: if a value close to zero is shown, then a short circuit is observed);

checking the absence of a short circuit

I would also like to point out some little things when checking this component of the VAZ 2110. It is not necessary to completely repair the generator if malfunctions of the rotor, capacitor, brush holder or stator are detected.
Replacing them will result in normal operation. In the event that a malfunction of one of the diodes is detected, the entire rectifier assembly is replaced.

Often, the cause of a generator malfunction lies in the bearings. Their check should begin with an external examination. We are looking for cracks in the clips, the presence of corrosion and other similar components.
In general, bearings should not have strong play and make noise. Ideally, they should rotate easily. If severe wear or damage is found, the bearings must be replaced.
So, if there is a situation when:

the generator howls - it means that it should be removed, disassembled, eliminated malfunctions in the stator and rectifier unit;
if the generator does not howl, then you need to tighten the nut for securing the fan pulley;
if, after tightening the fastening nut, the generator began to howl, it means that you need to wipe the brushes and slip rings with a cloth soaked in gasoline;
if after that the generator howls - replace the bearings.

To check correctly, you need to rotate the bearing ring from side to side. This must be done vigorously in order to be able to recognize significant backlash.
The ring must rotate freely and not jam. Also, no extraneous noise should be heard.

rear bearing of the generator vaz 2110

The VAZ 2110 generator, the repair of which depends on the operation of all components, can also "junk" because of the front bearing. It should also be rotated from side to side while holding the pulley with your hand.
If jamming or noise is found, it is advisable to replace the bearing. Replacing the front bearing, as recommended by the manufacturer, can be done with the cover assembly, but it will cost a pretty penny.
It is advisable and more expedient to independently press out and replace the bearing, which is much cheaper without a cover. Often you have to replace the generator itself.
Do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2110 implies a thorough check.
Normal generator performance can be detected by applying the following steps:

unscrew the nut with a 19 socket wrench that secures the pulley and the impeller of the generator (use a screwdriver to hold the rotor);

loosening the generator nut

Not such a complicated system for the VAZ 2110. Do-it-yourself repair of the generator, after the nut has been unscrewed, implies the dismantling of all parts: the pulley, the cooling impeller, the locking washers and the segmented key.

generator parts disassembled

You can dig further with your own hands if the cause of the malfunction has not been found. Using a 10 key, unscrew the four nuts of the generator cover and remove the connecting bolts.
Then squeeze the front cover off the stator, dismantle the cover. It will look like this:Thus, the condition of the bearing is checked, which is described in detail above. Usually, the price for them in stores is low, so if any faults are found, it is better to replace them immediately.Checking the generator stator on a VAZ 2110 car is performed for the same purposes as checking the generator rotor, that is, identifying breaks in the winding and interturn / on the case. To carry out repair work, disassemble the generator, remove the stator, prepare a standard voltage test lamp and a power source (battery). Do the following sequence of actions:

First of all, we carry out a visual inspection of the stator. Check the inner surface; no traces of the armature sticking are allowed, which indicates a failure of the rotor shaft bearings. In this case, the bearings either individually or together with the covers must be replaced.

We check the absence of a break in the winding.To do this, a test lamp connected to a power source is alternately connected to all winding terminals. In all cases, the lamp must be on.
Now we check the absence of a short circuit to the case. To do this, connect the test lamp to the winding terminals and to the body. The lamp should be off. Otherwise, the stator or winding must be replaced with a new one.

The device does not supply an electric current, and the battery does not receive a charge.
The generator produces a high or low voltage current, which is dangerous for the entire onboard system.
When the motor is started, the unit emits a whine, squeal and other unpleasant sounds.

Before starting the engine, it is necessary to measure the voltage in the electric network of the car. Usually this indicator is found in the range of 11-13 B.
Now the car starts up and the measurement repeats. If the figures at the table after 30-60 from the engine operation do not change, then the generator does not charge. The operating device increases the voltage in the side network up to 14.2-14.7 V. The excess of this threshold is an indication of the exit from the burner-regulator.
To find out the reason for the whist in the engine compartment, it is necessary first to check the tension of the drive belt. If the change gear is loose, it must be adjusted. When the belt is not to blame in the unpleasant noise, it must be removed from the pulley. After starting the engine, there is no noise, so the generator is the source of the unpleasant sounds. With a small hand on the pulley, make a few strong rotations and listen. If the rotation is quickly slowed down and there is noise, it is necessary to start removing the device and disassembling it.

First of all, it is necessary to remove the car's on-board network, for which to remove the minicomponent from the battery.
The next stage of dismantling will be the unscrewing of the M 10 nut on the generator plug.
Now the wires that come from the back of the device are disconnected.
To loosen the fastening, you need to take the key 13 and loosen the upper and lower nuts.
With the key at 10, unscrew the tension bolt, after which it is possible to remove the loose belt.
Then unscrew the upper and lower bolts completely and remove the tensioning plate.
The generator rotates in a straight corner and is removed from the engine compartment.

The assembly starts by removing the rear plastic skin. To do this, you have to release three latches.

With the help of a screwdriver with a very clear bit, unscrew the two screws that fasten the voltage regulator together with brushes.

To remove the encoder wire, it is necessary to unscrew the M 10 nut. Now you need to unscrew the screw with a screwdriver and remove the encoder.

To remove the generator pulley, use a wheel, a key-head for 21 and a hexagon for 8. The housing of the generator is pressed in a wheel, and the head is pressed. A hexagon is inserted through the opening of the head. By unscrewing the nut, you can remove the pulley and washer.