DIY induction hob glass repair

In detail: DIY induction hob glass repair from a real master for my.housecope.com.

I decided to write about it, as this happens with many, and solutions on the Internet. either not, or I did not find it.

I will say right away that the most correct thing would be to change the glass or surface assembly, but if this solution does not work for some of you (like me), then this post is for you.
It is unlikely that it will be possible to give the surface its original state and mask the crack, but it is quite possible to “leave” it in operation.

I have a top-end Bosch induction model with infrared temperature control sensors, so I really wanted to keep this particular panel (especially since they are no longer on sale now). The dealer asked for 25 thousand for the glass, which is a few. a little expensive. For this money, you can buy a full-fledged panel. So I decided to try and glue.

Some information about glass ceramics: this is not glass, or rather not ordinary silicate glass, but quartz glass. And the properties of quartz glass are different. For example, it can be locally heated to high temperatures and immediately cooled (even tempered glass will burst), and glass ceramics can also be processed.
This results in a method for soldering quartz glass. For example, crushed silicate (ordinary) glass. Since quartz can withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees, and silicate melts already at 600 degrees. It didn't work out for me, because when dry filling the crack, the burner flame simply blows out the crushed glass, and when using a liquid base, I used silicate glue, then the silicate glue simply boiled from the flame, foamed with the crushed glass, and again, the soldering did not work.
I gave you information - go for it if you want.

Video (click to play).

Adhesives with satisfactory glass adhesion:
1) Cyanoacrylate (superglue). it will not work for us in any way, since the maximum temperature of use is 80 degrees
2) Epoxy resin. can be used except for heating zones. temperature up to 280 degrees, but when heated, it releases toxic substances
3) Silicate glue (stationery, liquid glass). well-known glue from childhood. Almost perfect for our needs! we will use it
4) Silicone sealant - temperature up to 200 degrees. there are heat-resistant options with temperatures up to 300 degrees, but they are only brown

I will say right away that I used all three suitable options.

I started with silicate glue. I was pleased with the initial result, but. the seam failed the load test. In the end, I did this: first I used silicate glue along the entire length of the crack, then I strengthened the rigidity in three places (where there are no zones of the burners) by gluing pieces of ordinary glass onto the silicone, and then I restored the missing fragment with epoxy, just pouring it there (Along the way, pasting in another small area of aluminum, since there was a cobweb of cracks in this place).
I have been using it for almost a week now: everything is ok, except for aesthetics. At the same time, I am looking through Avito, hoping to find a similar (similar) panel.

What can replace Dikiy angel, 12 March 11, 00:33 Quartz glass is probably needed. And also try the glass from the oven door of an ordinary gas stove. There is some kind of heat-resistant glass - though I don't know if it is cut, unless it is a laser try.
Or glass from fireplace doors - as they say there - crystal glass.

Ceramic glass or glass ceramic. at temperatures up to 750 degrees. In addition to protective glasses for a fireplace, such glasses are used in the form of protective glasses for braziers or barbecues. Glass elements of microwave oven doors are also an area of application for heat-resistant glass-ceramic glasses.

Last ed.12 March 11, 01:00 from AmoK

If aesthetics are not important, you can choose the right glass size, but only tempered.
kapdym, 12 March 11, 10:02 am I wonder how you are going to pick up a tempered glass of a suitable size ?? Considering the fact that the glass after tempering does not lend itself to mechanical processing and other trimming.
Good day, someone may have encountered such a problem. Yesterday I accidentally smashed the glass-ceramic hob of an induction hob.
Dikiy angel, 12 March 11, 00:33 Everything is much simpler. Of course, if you are sure that you just need a simple tempered glass. In offices that deal with glass processing, tempering is offered as a separate service. That is, you order glass with the required dimensions, configuration and holes, etc. and after it is already hardened.
And how did your glass break more precisely into what fragments ?? Tempered glass breaks into characteristic small fragments ..

the most interesting thing is that the glass broke just like a simple window, cracks with rays
Dikiy angel, 12 March 11, 23:06 Well, this does not mean that glass is simple. This suggests that it is not knee.

The trick is not that I came home glued to the sealant as before, only now an interesting noise appeared.
Dikiy angel, 12 March 11, 11:06 pm Perhaps something does not fit the vibration from here the noise .. Of course, stand still glass is not quite what you need. I suspect that it will crack very quickly from the temperature drop or from the ingress of water on the glass.
And so in general with this new home-made glass does the stove work, does it heat ??
I have such a stove in my garage with cracked glass. I found out the glass can be ordered, but it will cost more than half of this very plate and wait another month ..

Electrical induction devices have long been used in metallurgy and welding. Despite the apparent complexity of the devices, their manufacture does not belong to high technologies. Therefore, for two decades this principle has been widely used in everyday life: in particular, when creating electric stoves.

Breakdown of equipment with such a heater is not a big problem, however, service centers put up impressive price tags with each call. Therefore, if you have basic skills in radio modeling, you can repair the induction cooker with your own hands. Our review will tell about this.

The principle of operation is not based on the heating of metals by induced eddy currents. Any metal caught in the high-frequency magnetic field is intensely heated. To do this, several conditions must be met:

The material must effectively absorb the energy of the vortex field. Therefore, utensils for such plates are made of ferromagnetic metals. Most often it is steel.
The oscillation frequency of the alternating magnetic field must be at least 20-60 kHz; for this, appropriate generators are used.
The area of the induction field is very compact, so the metal (in this case the bottom of the cookware) should be as close to the inductor as possible.

From the point of view of the physics of the process, this is a high-frequency transformer.

The role of the primary winding is played by an inductor through which a high-frequency current flows. The secondary winding is nothing more than the bottom of the dishes, in which, when exposed to an alternating magnetic field, the same currents arise as in the coil. Due to this, a strong heating of the metal occurs.

Let's dwell on one more condition:

The surface area of both coils (and they are structurally flat) should be as equal as possible.

Only in this case is the balance of energy transfer ensured. What is it for? In empty space (above the inductor), eddy currents are idle. The "extra" energy of the magnetic field begins to overheat the primary coil. In addition, the excess temperature load is transferred to the output stages of the high frequency generator. If the cooling radiators fail, the circuit breaks down and the induction cooker components need to be repaired.

The illustration shows the main components of the heating element (conditionally without the upper "winding"), that is, the dishes are missing.

The temperature sensor monitors the degree of heating, and in critical modes it turns off the power.
The coil (primary winding) is a massive copper conductor tightly packed in a spiral shape.
The ferrites placed in the housing form a ferromagnetic complex together with the coil.
The printed circuit board of the high frequency alternator is equipped with an output stage heatsink with forced cooling (fan).
The generator housing provides efficient airflow to the entire circuit.

Full power is not realized. As a rule, this situation occurs if the bottom of the cookware is located offset from the center of the burner, or the diameter of the bottom is significantly less than the size of the hob.It is possible that the burner is not pressed tightly from the bottom to the decorative surface (the fasteners are loose, or the pressure springs have burst). If the power changes abruptly, the reason may be the temperature sensor is triggered. It is necessary to find the reason for the overheating of the induction winding. The spiral can burn out or close between the turns.
Some of the cooking zones do not work. First of all, the power connection to the faulty nodes is checked. Each generator may have fuses. Also, overheating can damage the connector from the control unit to the inductor.
No response to touchpad. In the presence of grease, the sensors may not “feel” your fingers. Clean the surface. If this does not help, we check the connecting cables from the control panel to the inductor circuit.
There is no display of residual heat (in fact - the temperature of the hob in operation). The reason may be a breakdown of the thermal sensor. If it is working properly (you can check it on a working burner), you should replace it. Of course, we check the reliability of the connection of the connecting wires.
The cooling fan runs continuously. Propeller noise can be heard for some time after the end of work, the induction coil does not cool down immediately. If the fan runs immediately after turning on the power (when the hotplate is off), the temperature sensor may be faulty, or the temperature in the area of the hob is higher than + 50 ° C.
The fan is not working. There are only two reasons: either the motor burned out (we check it with a forced voltage supply), or a breakdown in the control circuit (temperature sensor, control module).
Unmotivated shutdown of the hob. To begin with, let's learn the standard reasons for the shutdown:
- within 10 seconds after switching on, you do not perform any active actions;
- burners (at least one of them) work in heating mode for more than 2 hours in a row;
- the timer may be off for a short time.

If the above reasons are absent, we deal with the temperature sensors and the control panel.

The induction hob does not "see" the cookware. First, check the material of the pot or pan body. It must be marked accordingly (for induction hobs). As a last resort, you can check the metal with a permanent magnet. Non-magnetic materials (aluminum, copper alloys, stainless steel) are not detected by induction burners. If the dishes are in order, check the temperature sensor and the control unit again.

Helpful hint: if there is no suitable cookware, and you only have an induction cooker, use a ferromagnetic disc of a suitable diameter. These are available commercially, or can be made from a thick steel pan.

True, the cooking efficiency will sharply decrease, because the heat source will not be the dishes themselves, but the metal disc. But you can cook in your favorite copper pan or heat-resistant glass pan.

Important! The presence of liquid (even water) in a non-magnetic cookware will not cause the induction hob to work. This is not a microwave oven.

All the reasons why an induction hob "has the right" not to work have been verified: a complete repair remains. First of all, disconnect the hob from the power supply (even if you are confident as a master electrician).

Then you need to carefully remove the decorative surface to gain access to the insides. Regardless of the manufacturer's brand, prepared induction cookers look like this:

We make an external examination. Any traces of soot, discoloration of components, traces of temperature tarnishing on the metal should raise suspicion. The problem must be looked for from external manifestations.

If nothing suspicious is found, we proceed according to the algorithm “from simple to complex:

Tip: the repair process will be greatly simplified if you have at your disposal a schematic diagram of the electrical part. It can be downloaded on specialized repair sites or on the manufacturer's portal.

It doesn't matter that it may be in English (most likely it is). Any novice master who knows how to read diagrams will easily figure it out.

It will not be superfluous to photograph every step, especially before dismantling each unit. Subsequently, you will not make mistakes when assembling.

If you look at the simplified circuit, it becomes clear that one of the important components is the control transistor T1 of the output stage (the one that is cooled by the heatsink).

It is he who is susceptible to thermal overload, especially in the case of using dishes with a smaller diameter. The operation of the circuit is arranged in such a way that with an increased load on the induction coil, the operating current of the transistor increases sharply. A burned-out part is not necessarily diagnosed visually, since the radiator is in place and is efficient. Therefore, if there is a suspicion of a transistor failure, it must be checked individually.

Using a multimeter, you can easily identify a malfunction and replace this critical part.

Another contender for "flying out" is a power capacitor. In a simplified diagram, it is designated as Cr. It works directly with an induction coil and is also susceptible to overheating.

The algorithm is the same: if there are no traces of breakdown on it, we solder it and check it with a multimeter.

For an experienced radio amateur, repairing the generator board is quite a feasible task. And a beginner can rely mainly on visual checks and banal continuity of elements.

Hobs with glass-ceramic hobs are popular: they have heat indicators, are easy to use, and easy to care for. But often due to severe mechanical damage or due to prolonged incandescence, defects such as cracks and scratches occur. The extent of damage can be different - from a subtle crack to cracks that occupy the entire surface area.

Crack on the hob

lead to malfunctions of the device;
the incandescence temperature rises;
the external data of the technique is spoiled;
faults can increase, which will lead to the complete destruction of the glass-ceramic layer;
the stove can transmit an electric current and infect a person.

If cracks were found on the hob, then this was preceded by the following factors:

Sharp, strong contact with the surface of any object. For example, you might drop a heavy saucepan, which is a common cause of glass ceramic breakage. The fracture will have the form of a hole in the center, where the impact fell, and the branching of the fractures.
The stove has become very hot due to the long operation of several burners, which have been operating at full capacity. Usually the defect appears with a bang and can spread in different directions.
It happens when the hob has been incorrectly installed and a powerful voltage applied to the equipment destroys the hob. The surface begins to crack from the central part, after the defects diverge, having sharp corners.
Pinpoint damage, such as a falling knife.
Tearing off sticky dishes. For example, a frying pan or saucepan was placed on a sticky, uncleaned hob.When heated, the dishes stick together, and it is possible to tear them off only with a glass ceramic fragment.
Escaped jam and sugar syrup are very difficult to remove from the stove. The heated sugar, upon contact with the surface, penetrates into the structure of the glass-ceramic material. When cleaning the plate, the surface is damaged, chips appear.

Important! The last two reasons are caused by manufacturing defects and non-compliance with the rules when assembling the model. Common cases are when the surface is mounted very close to the edges, and it bursts during the heating process.

It should be remembered that faulty equipment powered by electricity is dangerous for any use. There are such rules where safety must be observed:

Any cooking on cracked panels should be avoided;
Means for cleaning hobs must be specially designed;
It is not recommended to touch metal utensils with wet hands, there is a risk of electric shock;
Self-repair may lead to a short circuit.

To get rid of such troubles as a large chip or crack, it will be safer to replace the hob with a new one. Leaving everything as it is is also an inappropriate option, because the integrity of the technique is violated, and the chip can turn into a large rift. Do-it-yourself gluing is the most economical way. To do this, you will need a material that will keep the strength of the glass-ceramic and will not allow cracks to spread further, will withstand high temperatures.

Step-by-step guide: how to glue a hob yourself, on which a crack or chip has appeared.

Silicate glue.
Silicone.
Rectangular pieces of glass, approximately 4x9 cm.
Epoxy resin.
Rubber spatula.
The plate is made of aluminum, the size is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the crack.

The panel must be removed and wiped with a degreasing agent.
The crack along the entire length should be greased with silicate glue.

Panel preparation for chip repair

Silicone bonding

Aluminum plate located under the chip

Appliances with a glass hob need special care. If you do not follow the rules for using the device, scratches may appear on the stove.

A solution of soda and water, applied to a soft textile napkin, should be rubbed in a circular motion. Then the leftovers are wiped dry with a paper towel. The mixture must not be dry, otherwise the scratch removal process will lead to the appearance of additional defects on the surface. Before starting the procedure, be sure to turn off the device from the network.

Removing scratches from the hob

If more serious defects occur, it is better to contact a qualified technician. It is recommended to check the warranty period, if it has not yet expired, you need to photograph the damage and call the service center:

You will need to call a repair specialist at home to conduct an inspection and make a conclusion whether the surface can be restored.
If the warranty period has not yet expired, the surface must be taken for examination, which will determine the cause of the destructive effect.
If the defect turned out to be a factory defect, the manufacturer is obliged to replace the glass-ceramic element or the entire plate.
When the warranty is no longer valid, you should visit a service center or repair shop.

bought a hob (induction with touch control siemens eh645fe17e / 01)
from an accidental hit by a cup - the glass broke
in official services they are ready to sell only together with the service (departure * installation)
it turns out almost like a new panel

WHERE you can order such glass (I will replace it myself) in Moscow

P.S. on the glass itself there is a marking “schott ceran 9000782808”

Problems:
1. Who will sell glass to you at retail? It is unlikely that a glass factory - therefore, the service is easier
2. Skills are needed to replace the old lady.
And although the service is expensive, you will receive a guarantee.

matan wrote:
WHERE you can order similar glass

Nowhere. The company's policy is to sell a spare part, the replacement of which requires opening the device, only with work. Without work, they can sell, for example, a shelf for a refrigerator.
Illegally, they impose a paid service, but so far no one has filed a lawsuit, so this will continue.

PySy: they did not forget to include diagnostics in the service, right?

matan wrote:
WHERE you can order such glass (I will replace it myself) in Moscow

If there is just ordinary rectangular glass without inserts, then order tempered glass, chamfers, polishing of edges on the glass according to the sample.

Use black thermo paint (for fireplaces) from below to paint everything as it should, windows for sensors, etc. Glue the places where the sensor is with electrical tape. Brush on a couple of layers. KTP-8 paste for temperature sensors. On the native panel, you tear off all the "pieces of iron".
There is a chance to restore. You can make any inscriptions with white thermal paint, even Khokhloma. The collective farm, of course, but if there is a desire to save money. The glass itself is a penny.

A cup fell on my stove. Where the pancakes themselves are round tempered glass inserts, and the lid itself is made of ordinary glass. And these inserts are framed with a stainless rim, the rim is bent, there is a dent. TTT glasses are intact.

pyapa wrote:
If there is just ordinary rectangular glass without inserts, then order tempered glass, chamfers, polishing of edges on the glass according to the sample.

You advise nonsense. I have already pressed YOU the link how glass differs from glass ceramics on hobs.
Do you guarantee that the tempered glass will not shatter into small cubes when heated with a frying pan?
If you really need to change, then you need heat-resistant quartz glass.