Do-it-yourself Siemens washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Siemens washing machine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The possibility of self-repairing the washing machine is always considered first. Indeed, with a certain trip, the home craftsman has the prerequisites for independently restoring the functioning of household appliances for washing. The main technical recommendations regarding repair will be described below.

Repair of Siemens washing machines can also be entrusted to specialists. As a rule, repair operations are carried out directly at the home of the owner of household appliances. However, it is important to understand that the technician may need to take the equipment to the workshop for repair, if restoration at home is impossible for some reason.

It is hardly worth describing in this article how to change the filter yourself. There is absolutely nothing complicated in this procedure. In addition, it is described in the user manual for the washing machine.

The most common technical failures include:

aging of the hatch cuff;
failure of the heating element;
breakdown of the drain pump.

Replacing the sunroof collar is the easiest part of recovery. The fact is that due to incorrect use, moisture remains in the cuff. Naturally, over time, a fungus develops on moisture.

This is the main reason for the disgusting smell from the washing machine. To replace the cuff yourself, first purchase it! Finding the right one is not easy. Especially if your washing machine is imported.

The change is carried out after removing the O-ring. This can be done with bare hands (after prying the O-ring). However, there is often another O-ring. To gain access to it, you will need to dismantle the facade of the washing machine.

Video (click to play).

It is important to understand that it is impossible to restore an inoperative heating element or drain pump. Even professionals do not do this - they immediately install new components.

Dismantling the front of the washing machine is only possible after removing the powder receptacle. It is important to remember that wires fit to the facade (door blocking during washing).

The wires are connected using connectors. Consequently, replacing the heating element and pump with new analogues does not require specialized equipment.

The video clearly demonstrates the implementation of the above actions:

Household appliances from Siemens have gained popularity. But even high quality and reliable AGRs sometimes fail. It is believed that they are able to serve reliably for about ten years. However, like other devices, washing machines have their weak points, which can manifest themselves in the most inappropriate situations. Having information about typical failures, you can identify them on your own and repair Siemens washing machines on your own.

German technology is actually considered to be of high quality in all its components. Experts assure that if we compare with other washing machines, then in Siemens, in terms of reliability, we can single out the engine, control module and bearings. The listed elements rarely fail.

But the following failures are distinguished as weak places:

the wash has ended, but the water has not left, the program has not switched to rinsing or spinning. In this case, a likely failure will be a failure or clogging of the pump;
the machine draws in water and immediately drains it. The problem may be with the filling valve. One sign of a problem is a water leak near the detergent drawer;
water flow.As a rule, this happens near the door or under the body. The reason is the wear of the cuffs or their weakening;
no water heating. In most cases, the problem is related to the heating element;
during the operation of the machine, vibration is observed, a knock is heard. In such situations, it is advisable to check the shock absorbers and dampers for wear.

Let's try to figure out how to deal with the most common failures with our own hands.

Probably, such works are the most difficult. The problem is that in a washer of German origin, you can only get to the pump if you remove the front panel. And in this case, the machine will have to be disassembled almost all.

So you should clear the place, prepare various screwdrivers and pliers, and you can start repairing:

remove the fastening clamp from the cuff, dismantle the cuff itself;
take out the detergent tray, turn out the self-tapping screw that secures the front panel;
remove the bottom part of the case, under which two more screws should be unscrewed;
unscrew the hardware fixing the pump;
carefully move the control panel to the side to preserve the integrity of the wiring;
we disconnect the wiring connected to the door of the machine;
remove the front panel of the SMA.

Now you can carefully examine all the parts inside the machine. As a rule, it is recommended to start with the nozzles routed from the tank. During the inspection, their integrity and tightness are checked. To remove a broken pump, you must:

disconnect all electrical wiring, disconnect the branch pipe leading from the pump to the tank;
remove the water drain hose.

The pump is checked for blockages and performance. If it is in good working order, it is necessary to flush the pipes and the snail, and in the reverse order to carry out the assembly. In the event of a complete malfunction of the pump, it is changed to a similar element.

Intake valve replacement procedure.

It can fail for many reasons, including normal wear and tear and poor quality water. But it will still have to be changed, since most often repair work is not advisable.

How to proceed in such cases:

the washing machine must be disconnected from the water supply and electrical energy;
after that, the hose for water intake is unscrewed;
use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the fasteners of the top panel;
at the point of approach of the hose, we find the inlet valve, disconnect the wiring from it;
the branch pipe is disconnected, the fasteners are unscrewed, the valve is removed;
a new element is inserted in its place, and all actions are performed in reverse order.

Some models have a feature in the form of a plastic plug. It can be easily removed with a flat screwdriver.

Replacing the rubber cuff on the hatch.

This work can be done without dismantling the tank. All activities require skill and patience. You just have to purchase a similar cuff, otherwise the tightness will be broken.

a metal clamp is removed that holds the cuff on the wall of the washer;
we remove the wall according to the already known scheme;
the branch pipe coming from the receiver for detergents must be disconnected;
the position of the rubber cuff must be marked with a marker, then it can be removed, put on a new one in the vacant space;
connect the hose;
put the front panel in place, put on the cuff, fix it with a clamp.

The sequence of actions when replacing the heating element.

Increased water hardness and excessive use of the CMA lead to failure of the water heating element. The washing process will take place in cold water, and this will significantly reduce the efficiency. There are models in which, after the heating element fails, the washing process does not start at all, and the corresponding error code is displayed on the screen.

In the models of the German company, the heating element is located under the tank, behind the front panel of the machine.Having unscrewed all the screws, you can easily remove this wall, check the heating element for its performance using a multimeter. In case of malfunction, replace. To do this, you will have to:

unscrew the nut located in the center of the base of the heater;
remove all wires, disconnect the thermal sensor;
pull the heating element towards you with smooth swaying;
take a new analogue, install it in the vacated socket, after removing debris and scale from there;
connect the wires to the corresponding terminals, tighten the nut.

Worn brushes, engine failure.

Motor problems account for almost a tenth of all failures. During a short circuit, the motor winding could burn out, or simply the collector brushes were worn out.

remove the top and back panels;
remove the drive belt from the motor pulley;
disconnect all wires;
unscrew all fasteners;
remove the motor, slide the plate with the terminals and remove the brushes.

They need to be examined. In case of severe wear, it is recommended to replace it with new ones, after which the engine is installed in its original place.

There are known cases when electronic elements fail - a board or its components. The procedure is quite complicated, and a beginner may not be able to cope with it. You will need to have a wiring diagram of the unit on hand. Experienced craftsmen advise that if the board refuses to contact the workshop - repairs on your own may entail additional problems.

If you want to wash the outside of the washing machine, you must disconnect the power from the unit, do not use a jet of water or chemical detergents containing solvents or abrasive components. It is best if you just wipe it down with a damp cloth.It is necessary to descale the elements of the washing machine with the help of special agents, using them in accordance with the recommended dosages.The detergent drawer should be inspected regularly. If there is dirt or powder residues in it, remove it, rinse it thoroughly, and reinstall it. Image - DIY Siemens washing machine repair

The condition of the water pump should be checked several times throughout the year. For such a procedure, the basement wall is removed, the drain hose is pulled out, the liquid is drained. After that, the pump is cleaned, checked for rotation of the impeller. Then the pump cover is installed in its place, the panel is attached.

At least once a year, remove and check the filter located in the water inlet hose of the washing machine.

As a result, it should be noted that only the most frequent failures of the Siemens laundry machine are indicated here. Other breakdowns also occur - the control module burns out from voltage surges if there is no protection element. Bearings and oil seals wear out over long periods of time.

Such a repair of the washing machine is quite feasible on our own, but it will take free time, the necessary tools and patience.

If you are faced with a problem with your Siemens washing machine, it is not necessary to call the technician right away. The modern self-diagnosis system allows you to quickly determine the cause of the malfunction.Having found it out, you can try to perform an independent repair or replace an element in a Siemens washing machine.Before proceeding with the repair, let's analyze the error codes of the Siemens washing machine. Their values will tell you where to look for a breakdown.Consider the most common breakdowns, as well as the possibility of repairing Siemens washing machines with your own hands.Poor water drainage after washing, or its complete absence, indicates a blockage in the drain pipe or filter, and a pump breakdown - in 30% of cases.The pump in the Siemens washing machine is located behind the front panel. Therefore, to get to it, you have to work hard:

Unplug the washing machine from the mains, turn off the water supply.

A drain hatch is located on the bottom of the front panel.

Open it, substitute the container and remove the filter.

Clear it from the blockage.

Remove the top panel by unscrewing the screws at the back.

Remove the dispensing tray.

Remove the metal collar securing the collar.

Disconnect the UBL wiring.

Remove the bolts securing the front panel.

Removing the panel, you will see a pump at the bottom.

Check pipe and pump for blockage. For cleaning, it is enough to remove the pipe and rinse under running water.

To remove the pump, disconnect the connectors and remove the retaining bolts.

If you notice that the washer is not flooding or overflowing, the intake valve may have broken. Repair and replacement of a valve in a Siemens washing machine can be done by hand:

Disconnect the intake hose from the CMA.
Unscrew the rear screws and remove the top panel.
Disconnect the valve coil connector wires.
Remove the hoses leading to the valve.
On the back of the body, unscrew the two bolts that secure the valve. Get it out of the car.

You can install a new element in the reverse order.

Heating element malfunctions - 15% of all breakdowns of Siemens machines. The reason for this is scale or a short circuit. Scale prevents the heater from emitting heat, so it overheats and burns out.

Having reached the heating element in a Siemens washing machine, check it with a multimeter before replacing it.

To get the heating element, remove the front panel of the CM, as described above. Attach the test leads of the multimeter to its contacts and check the readings with the photo.

In the event of a malfunction, do a DIY replacement:

Disconnect all wires.
Loosen the center nut, push the bolt inward.
Prying up the edges, take out the element.
Install a serviceable heating element in the reverse order.

Water leakage problems account for 10% of all breakdowns.

Leakage occurs due to depressurization of the seams or damage to parts and connections. The hatch cuff may also be broken or worn out.

We will tell you how to replace the cuff on a Siemens washing machine with your own hands:

Open the hatch door.
Bend the rubber grip and pry the metal clamp with a screwdriver.
Carefully remove the clamp, then remove the front body of the machine.
Disconnect the cuff connection.
Remove the cuff.

Inspect the cuff at the time of damage: whether it can be repaired, the tears can be patched up. If not, then a new part is installed.

Another 10% of breakdowns are malfunctions with the washing machine motor. At the moment of a short circuit, the motor winding could burn out, and the collector brushes could also wear out.

How to make DIY repairs and replace electric brushes:

Remove the top and rear covers of the CM by unscrewing the bolts.
Remove the belt from the engine pulley.
Disconnect the wiring.
Remove the fixing bolts.
After removing the motor, slide the terminal plate and pull out the brush.

After dismantling, inspect the brushes: if they are too worn out, it is better to install new elements. Then put the motor back on the Siemens washing machine.

It happens that electronic components fail: the electronic board and its components. This is a complex repair, which is not always possible for a beginner. To understand the issue, you will need a wiring diagram of a Siemens washing machine.

We recommend that if the board breaks down, contact the service center - do-it-yourself repairs in this case are not justified and can only harm.

Repair video to help you:

Washing machines from the German company Siemens are of high quality and reliability. Under normal operating conditions, they can last up to 10 years without breakdowns. But, like any technique, these machines also have their weaknesses, which can manifest themselves at the most inopportune moment. Knowing the typical breakdowns, you can independently diagnose them and repair Siemens washing machines.

German washing machines are really distinguished by the high quality of all components. Service technicians point out that in comparison with other manufacturers of washing machines, Siemens machines have the most reliable motors, control modules and bearings. These parts rarely break. Among the weak points, the following malfunctions were identified:

after the end of washing, the water does not leave, the program does not switch to either rinsing or spinning mode. In this case, the most likely reason for the machine to stop is a breakdown or severe blockage of the drain pump.
water is collected and immediately drained. In this case, the filling valve is faulty. In this case, it is possible for water to flow out from under the powder tray.
water leak. Usually, water seeps under the machine or around the drum door, the reason for this is loosening / breaking of the pipes or wear of the cuff.
does not heat the water. In almost all cases, the burned-out ten is the cause.
Strong vibration of the machine during washing and spinning, accompanied by a knock. In such situations, craftsmen recommend checking the wear of dampers and shock absorbers.

Replacing the pipes and the drain pump is perhaps the most difficult job of the frequently occurring malfunctions that we have listed. The fact is that in German Siemens washing machines, the pump can only be reached through the front cover, and for this you will have to disassemble almost the entire machine with your own hands. Prepare a free workplace, a set of screwdrivers, pliers and get to work:

Remove the collar holding the cuff and remove the cuff from the front wall.
We remove the tray for powders from the machine, and behind it we unscrew the self-tapping screw holding the front wall.
We remove the lower part of the machine body and under it we unscrew a couple of self-tapping screws.

Important! Do not forget to drain the remaining water from the machine by unscrewing the drain filter.

We unscrew the self-tapping screws holding the pump.

Carefully remove the control panel to the side so as not to damage the wires.

We disconnect the wires going to the drum door.

We remove the front wall of the machine.

Now we carefully examine the internal parts of the machine. You can start with the pipes coming from the tank. They must be intact and tightly connected. To get a faulty pump, you need:

disconnect all wires;
disconnect the pipe connecting the pump and the tank;
disconnect the drain hose.

The pump is checked for blockages and performance. If it is in good working order, then the snail, pipes are washed and everything is assembled in the reverse order. If the pump malfunctions, you need to purchase a similar one and replace it.

There can be many reasons for a washing machine inlet valve breakage, from poor-quality water to wear and tear. One way or another, this part will have to be changed, since in 99% of cases its repair is not advisable. How do you replace the filler valve of a Siemens washing machine with your own hands?

First, we disconnect the washing machine from the water supply and electrical communications.
We unscrew the inlet hose from the washing machine.
We take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the fasteners of the top cover of the machine.
In the place where the filler hose fits, a filler valve is installed, several wires with terminals go to it, they must be disconnected.
Disconnect the pipe from the filler valve.
We unscrew the fasteners of the filler valve and remove it.
We put a new valve in its place, connect the wires and a branch pipe, put the top cover of the machine in place. The filling valve replacement is complete.

Important! On some models of Siemens washing machines, the valve is additionally held by a plastic plug. It can be easily removed using a flat screwdriver.

You can replace the cuff on a Siemens washing machine without removing the tank. To do it yourself, you need to have patience and skill. You only need to buy the same cuff, otherwise the tightness may be compromised... So, the cuff is replaced as follows:

We remove the metal clamp that holds the cuff on the front wall of the machine.
We remove the front wall, we have already described how to do this.
Disconnect the branch pipe from the powder receptacle.
Mark the position of the cuff with a marker.
Remove the cuff from the tank.
We take a new cuff and put it on the drum in a circle.
We connect the hose.
We fasten the front wall.
We put the cuff on the front wall.
We put on the collar.

Hard water and frequent use of the washing machine can damage the heating element.

And then the wash will be carried out in cold water, which will reduce its effectiveness. In some models of machines, if the heating element fails, the wash may not start at all, and an error code will appear on the display of the machine.

In German washing machines, the heating element is located behind the front wall under the tank.... Removing this wall will not be difficult, the main thing is to unscrew all the screws. Having removed the front part of the case, we check the heating element for operability using a multimeter. If it is faulty, we will change it.

We unscrew the nut located in the center of the heating element base.
We remove the wires and turn off the thermal sensor.
With swaying movements from side to side, we pull out the ten.
We take a new heating element and insert it into the socket, having previously cleaned it of debris and scale particles.
Then we connect the wires strictly to those contacts as they were. Therefore, it is better to take a photo before disconnecting anything.
We tighten the nut.

Summing up, we note that we have listed only the most common breakdowns of the Siemens washing machine. Other malfunctions may occur, in particular, during sudden power surges, the control module may burn out, especially if there is no proper protection. After prolonged operation, oil seals and bearings, brushes in the engine can wear out.

A similar repair of Siemens washing machines can be done by hand, but it will require more free time, tools and strong nerves. Therefore, most often in such cases, they contact the service center.

Interestingly, the repair of Siemens washing machines is a very rare occurrence. This is explained by the fact that German household appliances are of high quality and long service life.However, most often the repair of such household appliances is associated with poor water quality and rather intensive use. The products of the German manufacturer are characterized by high adaptability and versatility. For this reason, the repair can not be entrusted to everyone, since special knowledge and skills are required from the master.Our specialists have significant experience in servicing equipment of various brands and in eliminating breakdowns of varying degrees of complexity. We carry out high-quality, prompt repair of Siemens washing machines in Moscow. Initially, the masters need to conduct a thorough diagnosis, which will allow them to find out about the cause of the malfunction.Our advantages when repairing Siemens washing machinesRepair of the Siemens washing machine on its ownIf you want to save time and money, you can fix the equipment yourself - there are no particular difficulties here. We will provide you with diagnostic instructions, as well as a detailed photo report. Thanks to this, you will not have any difficulties.The most frequent breakdowns in devices of this brand:

deterioration of the sealing of the front hatch and fastenings;

clogging of the pump and drain system, when foreign objects appear in the wiring, as well as hard water, which negatively affects structural elements;

control unit malfunctions - this part is sensitive to voltage surges and is quite expensive.

Siemens brand appliances have proven themselves from the best side, but even such high-quality and reliable washing machines fail from time to time. In order for the owner of the machine to quickly understand what happened to the device, a diagnostic system is provided in the equipment from Siemens. An error code appears on the machine's display, decoding which, you can understand what the essence of the malfunction is, is it realistic to repair the device on your own, or if you need to contact a specialist.What means and possible causesThe door is not closed tightly enough.Check the door and close it more tightly, and if linen hinders this, free the machine from some of the things.No water supply due to:

Closed water tap;

Weak water pressure;

Lack of water in pipes;

Clogged water supply hose strainer.

Locate and remove any blockage in the hose and check the water supply.No water drainage due to:

Blockage in the drain system;

Drain pump malfunction;

Problems with the electrical controller.

Clean the filter and pipes of the drain system, as well as check the serviceability of the pump and the free rotation of its impeller. Replace the defective pump with a working part. If everything is in order in the drain assembly, check the electrical controller.Check tank connections and leaks while looking for the source of the leak.The door did not close, which prevents the program from starting.Open and close the door again and restart the wash program.Water flows longer than required due to:

Closed tap;

Clogged filter;

Weak water pressure.

Check the tap through which water is poured into the machine, as well as the water pressure. Inspect and clean the filter in the inlet hose.The water is drained longer than required due to:

A faulty or clogged drain pump;

Breakdown of the pressure switch.

Inspect the drain system and clear the blockage in the drain pump, and if it is faulty, replace this part. Check the pressure switch and its switch, and if the problem is in this sensor, replace it with a working one.Water heats up longer than required due to:

Heating element malfunctions;

Low voltage power supply;

Limescale build-up on the heater;

Damage to the heating element connecting circuits.

Examine the heater and the wires associated with it, and if the heating element turns out to be inoperative, carry out an independent replacement or call a specialist for this purpose.Unscheduled activation of the heater due to:

Damage to the temperature sensor;

Breakdown of the heating element relay.

Examine the NTC sensor and heating element with the subsequent replacement of faulty elements.Malfunction of the control system, as a result of which the motor functions unevenly, and the drum does not rotate. The situation is possible when:

Defective tachogenerator;

Breakdown of the reverse relay;

Short circuit in the triac.

Evaluate the performance of the drive motor, tachogenerator and control unit, and then repair the faulty elements or replace them with working ones.The temperature sensor does not work due to:

Its breakage;

Short circuit;

Break in his connections.

The wash does not stop, but the water does not heat up.Replace the faulty sensor or repair its wiring.Aquastop was turned on as a result of:

Water falling into the pallet of the machine;

Breakage of Aquastop connections;

Breakdown of Aquastop.

Examine all the components of the machine in which leakage is possible, as well as check the performance of Aquastop and its connecting chains.The aquasensor does not work as a result:

Formation of limescale on it;

Clogged drainage system;

Pressostat malfunctions.

The wash will not stop, but the rinse cycle will be skipped.Clean the drain system and the sensor itself, and, if necessary, replace the pressure switch with a serviceable part.The analog pressure sensor is faulty or the pressure switch is broken. Also, the cause of such an error may be an open circuit in the connecting circuits of these sensors.Disconnect the machine to examine the sensors and their electrical circuits, and then replace the damaged and faulty elements.Incorrect pressure switch setting.Carry out the correct adjustment of the sensor, check its serviceability, as well as its connections.Flow sensor does not work.Evaluate the operation of the sensor and its wiring, and if any malfunctions are detected, replace the non-working parts.The flow sensor cannot detect the water intake due to:

Closed tap;

Water pressure too low;

Clogged intake filter;

Breakage of the solenoid valve;

Inoperative pressure switch;

Breakdown of Aquastop.

Make sure that the tap is open, and then check the water filling system of the machine, as well as the connecting circuits associated with it. Replace defective parts with new ones.The water level is above normal due to:

Drain pump blocking;

Breakage of the solenoid valve;

Drain hose blockages;

Incorrect settings or breakdown of the pressure switch;

Damaged drain wiring.

Check the functionality of the solenoid valve, drain pump and pressure switch, and make sure that the drain hose is not pinched or dirty. If all components are OK, check the wiring.I can't close the door because:

She's stuck;

Her lock was broken;

The door gasket has lost its elasticity.

Disconnect the machine, then check the door lock, identify mechanical obstacles to closing, and check the wiring.The door lock does not work, as the relay has broken or the triac has burned out.Reset the washing program by switching off the machine, then check the control unit and wires.The temperature sensor does not work (due to its breakdown or breakage in its connections).Replace the faulty sensor or repair its wiring.The temperature sensor does not work (due to a short circuit).Replace the faulty sensor or repair its wiring.Power supply problem (invalid parameters).Check the power supply and correct its parameters.Due to the burnout of the triac in the electronic module, the engine began to run uncontrollably at high speeds.Turn off the machine, conduct a test program and check the health of the electronic module.The motor has stopped rotating due to:

Breakdown of the tachogenerator.

Laundry falling into the tank;

Drum blocking;

Burnout of the triac in the electronic module.

Turn off the machine, carry out a test program, and then correct the load of laundry, the operation of the tachogenerator, the wiring and the health of the electronic module.There is no reverse rotation of the motor, which is often associated with a breakdown of the reverse relay or burnout of the triac in the electronic module.Turn off the machine, run a test program and check the health of the electronic module.There are problems with the 3D sensor due to:

Breakage in its wiring;

Breakage of the sensor itself;

Failure of the power module;

Errors Software.

Check the operation of the sensor, the power module, as well as the wiring, and then replace the damaged and faulty elements.The flow sensor does not work due to a breakdown of the sensor itself or a blockage in the filling system.Check the fill valve for patency, flow sensor operation and wiring, and replace non-working parts if faults are found.The wrong signal is being received from the door, because it is not fully closed, a lock has broken, or there has been damage to the wiring.After resetting the error, one by one, check the tightness of the hatch closing, the door lock and the electrical circuits. Having identified faulty parts and wiring sections, replace them.Functional protection impaired due to processor malfunction or software error.After canceling the program by turning off the machine, check the power module, and if it is faulty, replace it.Incorrect card encoding.After canceling the program by turning off the machine, carry out the correct encoding or replace the card.The electric motor does not workCheck the resistance of the winding and the brush one by one, and then the connections and finally the control unit. Replace defective parts with new ones.Module encoding problem (often firmware related)Contact a specialist who will reprogram the module. Alternatively, replace the module with a new one.Most often, owners of Siemens brand machines turn to repairmen for the following reasons: