Do-it-yourself fairy washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself fairy washing machine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The washing tank, the casing of the electric drive and the tank lid of the FEYA washing machine are made of impact-resistant plastic. To accommodate the activator, the washing tub has a special cutout in the bottom and marks on the inner wall, which indicate the required water level in the tub for washing and rinsing. To rotate the activator, a belt drive is intended that connects it to the electric motor. The electric drive of the machine consists of an electric motor, a time relay and capacitors. The control panel has a knob of a cyclic time relay RVTs-6-50, with the help of which the activator's electric drive is started and stopped. The time relay provides automatic control of the cyclic reversing, while the alternation of the phases of the reversing cycle occurs in the following order:

the working period corresponding to the rotation of the electric motor in one direction;
pause;
the working period corresponding to the rotation of the electric motor in the opposite direction.

Rice. one The device of the Fairy washing machine.

Then the cycle is repeated. The time relay regulates the duration of the wash, which can be 1.6 minutes. It should be borne in mind that the RVTs-6-50 time relay is not protected from moisture ingress. The drain connection with a drain hose attached to it is located at the bottom of the washing tub. The set of the machine includes a water inlet hose, a stand for installing the machine on the sides of the bathtub and a tong for clothes.

Mechanical malfunctions of the washing machine, such as abnormal noises, jamming, etc. read mechanical faults of washing machines. See also typical malfunctions of non-automatic washing machines and their elimination. In terms of its structure, the Feya washing machine is similar to the Mini-Vyatka washing machine, so the procedure for disassembling the CM see Repair of the Mini-Vyatka washing machine.

Video (click to play).

K - cyclic time relay RVTs-6-50;

M - electric motor AVE-071-4S

The time switch installed on the machines usually allows you to adjust the wash time from 0 to 6 minutes. For the best quality wash, the cycle of the machine should be as follows: 50 s - rotation in one direction, 10 s - break, 50 s - rotation in the other direction, 10 s - break, etc. The FEYA washing machine can operate in this mode - this is inherent in its design. But in the event of a failure of the cyclic time relay, see the modernization of the washing machine, where the CM motor reverse device is proposed.

Used “Information materials TSNIITEI. 1980-1990 "

All the best, write

I received as a gift from my father-in-law 🙂 an electric motor from a washing machine, which had been in his garage for several years and was not adapted to anything. Actually, he lay in my garage for almost a year, but a week ago I found a use for it.

Since I started cutting foam, I have a lot of waste in my garage. I did not dare to throw away such an amount of polystyrene, especially since money was paid for it and this “garbage” can be used for construction purposes. So I decided to make a foam crusher, naturally I needed an electric motor. I took out a piece of iron, but I did not know how to connect it, since 4 wires come out of the motor. As it turned out, connecting the engine to the 220 network is very simple. Below is the original wiring diagram when installed on the FEYA washing machine.

The diagram has a lot of wires, switches and other parts. If there are no capacitors at hand to start the engine, then it is quite possible to do without them.See the diagram, the motor has 2 windings, one (above) working, the second (right) starting. While the engine is running, the working winding is connected to the 220 volt network all the time, and the starting winding is needed only for short-term operation, to start the motor (for half a second it will be connected to the network along with the working winding, when the motor starts, we immediately turn it off).

I started my motor without any problems, hung it on the crusher, but I haven't finished it yet, I am looking for effective designs. Later in the articles I will definitely show you how it all works.

Below is a photo of the motor in the FEYA washing machine, I found the photo on the Internet, my motor looks different, but the principle of switching on does not change from this.

The activator-type washing machine Feya still remains in demand among a small part of the population, especially the Feya is liked by summer residents. Despite the simplicity of the design, the parts of such a machine are also subject to wear and tear, so the washing machine may break down and need to be repaired. What most often fails, and how to carry out repairs with your own hands? We will try to answer these questions.
Breakdown and malfunction of the washing machine can manifest itself in different ways, here are the symptoms that users describe most often:

the activator does not rotate, while the engine hums;

the engine overheats during washing;

a knock appeared during washing;

during intensive washing, the activator tears the laundry;

the centrifuge does not work;

water does not drain;

water flows under the machine.

Specialists of service centers also talk about these malfunctions, although people rarely turn to them with such problems. After all, the cost of an activator washing machine Feya 2 does not exceed several thousand rubles - this is such a cheap option to arrange “laundry” with relative comfort. The services of repair specialists are often equal to the cost of the Fairy 2 car, so it is better to do the repair yourself, and if it doesn’t work out, then throw it away and buy a new one. Let's try to disassemble these faults and decide how to fix them.

If the activator of the Fairy 2 washing machine tears the laundry or periodically refuses to rotate, this indicates a serious problem that will most likely lead you to the need to replace the activator with a new one. Follow this procedure:
Make sure that not too much laundry is loaded into the machine; if the items are bulky, remove some and try to wash them again.

Check the o-rings and rubber gaskets of the activator, if you find visible wear, replace them.

If it does not help, replace the activator itself.

If the activator refuses to rotate, but the engine makes a hum, and then the washing machine turns off, then these symptoms will require you to take other actions.

It will be necessary to remove the back wall of the Fairy 2 machine, take a multimeter and check the condition of the capacitor.

If the capacitor is OK, there may be a problem with the motor. Turn the rotor first in one direction, then in the other, if it rotates in both directions, most likely the engine will have to be changed.

At the same time, check and replace the oil seals.

For your information! Do not rush to disassemble the machine, first turn the activator with your hands, sometimes after such mechanical manipulations it "falls into place" and starts working.

If the electric motor works normally, without extraneous noise, but at the same time the activator is in place and refuses to rotate, you must do the following. Remove the back wall of the Fairy 2 machine and tighten the drive belt, if the drive belt is torn or worn out, it needs to be replaced.

If the centrifuge on the Fairy 2 washing machine does not turn on, start by checking the electrical, especially since it is primitive in this machine. Check the integrity of the power cord, it is better to use a multimeter for this, measuring the resistance and determining whether the wiring is broken or intact.
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If the wiring is intact, remove the back of the machine and check the thermal relay. This element burns quite often, if you have the same problem, replace the thermal relay. If the thermal relay is also in order, then it will be necessary, according to the scheme outlined above, to check the capacitor, and then the centrifuge motor.

The centrifuge may be in good working order, but at the same time there is still no normal spinning, since water does not leave through the drain system. What is the reason for such an unpleasant phenomenon?

The most likely clogging of the filter or drain hose, take the instructions for the Fairy 2 washing machine and see how to clean - there is nothing complicated about it.

It is also possible that the centrifugal drain pump is clogged and needs to be removed and cleaned.

In rare cases, the drain pump will fail and must be replaced.

Important! A breakdown of a centrifugal pump often leads not to the impossibility of draining the water, but to leaks, which is also very unpleasant.

The Fairy 2 washing machine may suddenly start leaking. Perhaps this can be considered the most frequent and most unpleasant breakdown, although the reasons for it may be trifling. In the worst case, you will have to replace the activator or centrifugal pump. But this is required only in 5% of cases when you have to deal with such breakdowns, so do not rush to get upset. Better do the following:
Check how tight the activator is. If it dangles freely, then water flows through it. It must be tightened.

Check o-rings for wear.

Inspect the surface of the activator for nicks or other damage, as water can seep through such damage. Replace activator if necessary.

To check the O-rings, oil seals and tighten the activator, it must be removed correctly. How to do it?

There is a plug on the side of the activator, take it out, unscrew the fasteners and remove the handle.

We remove the washer, the gasket, unscrew the fasteners of the casing, remove it.

We hold the engine impeller with one hand, and unscrew the activator with the other.

Note! Judging by the description - nothing complicated, but in fact there are nuances of disassembly. Until you try, you won't know.

The Fairy 2 washing machine may emit abnormal noises. In this case, she may need repairs, but first you need to understand the causes of the problem. The main reason is overloading the centrifuge with linen. Usually, after washing several items of laundry, the user tries to squeeze everything out as quickly as possible by stuffing as many wet things as possible into the centrifuge. Due to the excessive load, the centrifuge, when rotating, due to the centrifugal force, begins to beat against the walls of the tank, making a very loud noise.

In this case, it is imperative to stop the spinning process in order to avoid the destruction of the centrifuge parts. Things need to be loaded not too much, but not too little, then the spinning process will be the most efficient. Extraneous noise also occurs due to foreign objects caught in the centrifuge. It's good if it's just a jacket lock, large metal buttons or a belt buckle, but a large coin, a nail, or even worse can easily end up in the centrifuge. Check your clothes before putting them in the washer.

In conclusion, we note that the Fey 2 washing machine, which is outdated, but still used by some people, often fails. Since it is not a reliable technique, it needs an independent repair, since you cannot carry such a “miracle of technology” to the service - it is too expensive, but it is not worth it. The only way out is to do it yourself, which is not always possible due to the lack of spare parts.

Message # 1 KimIV »24 Jul 2018, 12:58

So, the patient is a FEYA-2 washing machine manufactured in 1992. Symptoms - the clockwork is stuck halfway and neither there nor there.

To remove the side semi-cylindrical cover, I unscrewed the screw from below.

I bake the clockwork terminals on all sides.

Then I pick out the handle, unscrew the plastic nut, three screws and the diseased organ is ready for surgery.

As far as I could understand the principle of the machine and, in particular, the switching mechanism, the following picture is obtained.

On the left, two pairs of contacts supply voltage to the motor. On the right, four pairs of contacts switch the direction of rotation of the motor. And between them there is one pair, which is responsible for opening the motor power circuit. Outwardly, the work of this pair is manifested as a three-second pause between changes in the direction of rotation of the engine. And this pause is needed, apparently, so that at the moment of direction switching, a short circuit does not occur due to the fact that some pair is mechanically closed, and the other has not yet been opened. A kind of additional insurance in electrical safety.

I continue to disassemble. And soaked the clockwork in kerosene for a day.

After soaking, I managed to somehow stir up the mechanism, but in the process it turned out that one part, I do not know what it is called correctly. In general, a pendulum dangles it back and forth and allows one of the gears to turn. So this part has one of the pin stops completely rusted out. With the arrows in the photo, I showed that there is one pin, but the second is not.

But there is a remnant of the second pin. I took a nail, sharpened it like a locksmith's drift, and carefully knocked out the rest of the pin. Then he measured its diameter.

As a blank for a new pin, I used corrugated steel wire for laying electrical cables. This wire is usually removed from the corrugated pipe while pushing / pulling the cable into it. And I saved a piece of such wire just in case. The wire diameter was found to be 0.6 mm. 10 minutes of work with a file and it turned out to be 0.52 mm. He took a bite and pressed it with a hammer.

Everything! The mechanism began to shut up, as expected! The drum is spinning, the contacts are switching! Collected in reverse order. And then I checked the work of the machine. First, it spins in one direction for 30-40 seconds, then a pause for 3-4 seconds and rotates in the other direction for 30-40 seconds too. And so on in a cycle until the left pair of contacts is completely disconnected (see the photo, which describes the purpose of the contacts).

Message # 2 ROW »24 Jul 2018, 19:36

Message # 3 alex. 573 »24 Jul 2018, 22:28

Message # 4 Ustas_ »27 Jul 2018, 00:11

Message # 5 ROW »27 Jul 2018, 08:16

Message # 6 Ustas_ »27 Jul 2018, 12:39

Message # 7 Dmitriy »27 Jul 2018, 13:06

ROW, There is such a switch with FEI, if I need to look at how many minutes, write in the evening I'll look.

Dispatched after 1 minute 41 seconds:
There are several with round washers, for how many minutes I don’t know.

Message # 8 ROW »27 Jul 2018, 16:03

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Ustas_, Then you, you, and you give cylinders from ureon and we have a business from 150-200 rubles a cylinder !! So, I tried to go to the office where the refrigerators are repaired, we said we don’t take disposable ones, but we refuel the old ones, therefore we don’t give away, the same trouble with washing machines (I had an indesite for mnu Italian real for 21 years I had to leave the control unit began to be wise mechanical still, to unleash It turned out to be unrealistic a problem in the mechanics, but to get there you need 5 or 6 boards strung like a shish kebab on a skewer and there are 20 contacts, in short, the trench to break when disassembling is close to 100%, I had to buy a new one.

Submitted after 4 minutes:
Dmitry, the problem is that on typewriters they walked for 6,10,12 minutes, and mine took half an hour and really needed 15 to 20 minutes for brewing, I asked the watchmaker if it was possible to "marry" them? He took a pause for a couple of days, then he said it didn’t work outwardly similar, but some gears could not be rearranged, the dimensions are very different, and the problem is in the worn base, the gear sawed through an oval hole and dangles, warps in it, which causes the mechanism to stop. I have already found an electronic timer for 30 minutes, I will try to implement it

Not everyone has the opportunity to install an AGR. The reasons may be different - lack of water supply, insufficient area, etc. But hand washing is a bad option, as it takes both time and effort.In such cases, experts advise purchasing semi-automatic machines from a domestic manufacturer. One example is the Fairy, which is small in size. Its main advantages are considered to be mobility, acceptable cost, the possibility of vertical loading of things, low consumption of electrical energy, ease of management, no need to connect the machine to communications.
There are models that can heat the water themselves. Today, such devices continue to be popular, but they still break down over time.

Washing machine failures manifest themselves in different ways, but most often users describe the following symptoms:

the activator does not rotate, but the motor at this moment emits a hum;

during the washing process, the electric motor overheats;

knocking is heard during operation;

during active work, the activator begins to tear things;

centrifuge failure;

waste water does not come off;

leak under the washing machine.

The masters of service centers also talk about such problems, although many people prefer to fix such problems with their own hands. The fact is that the price of such a machine does not exceed several thousand rubles, and the services of a specialist can equal it. It is for this reason that many repair the Fairy washing machine on their own, and if something does not work out, they simply throw out the old apparatus and acquire a new analogue.

The main problems are clear. Now it remains to figure out how to cope with them on your own.

This problem is considered the most serious in this model. The activator is a propeller with blades located in the bottom or in one of the walls. The rotation of the screw causes the laundry to move, due to which the washing process takes place. It is likely that the propeller and vanes will have to be replaced.

But first, it is recommended to check some points:

check how much laundry is loaded. If things are bulky - remove some of them, try to resume the washing process;

inspect the sealing elements and the activator gaskets. If obvious wear is detected, they will have to be changed;

an extreme case is the replacement of the activator itself.

In the event that the activator does not rotate, and the engine continues to emit a hum, then the machine turns off completely, then other actions will be required:

the back panel is removed. Using a multimeter, the capacitor is checked for serviceability;

if everything is in order with him, it is necessary to arrange an engine check. Rotate the rotor to each side. If it turns normally in both cases, then the engine will most likely have to be replaced;

in this case, you can inspect and change the oil seals.

Masters recommend not to rush to disassemble the machine, but simply twist the activator manually. Sometimes he "takes his place" and continues to work.

If the motor works normally, without emitting extraneous noise, but the activator does not want to rotate, it is necessary to remove the rear panel and tighten the drive belt. Perhaps it is badly worn out or torn, then it will have to be replaced.

In such a case, first of all, the entire electrical system is checked. Its scheme is simple:

the power cord is inspected, checked for integrity with a multimeter;

then the wires are checked;

if everything is in order there, it is necessary to organize a check of the thermal relay, for which you will have to remove the back panel;

with a normal result, the capacitor is checked;

if the cause is not found, it remains to check the electric motor itself.

It may happen that the centrifuge itself is in good working order, but does not create a proper spin, because the water does not drain through the drain system. What to do in such a situation? There are several options:

Most likely, the filter in the water drain hose is clogged. It is necessary to remove it and clean it, which will help the detailed operating instructions for the Fairy;

there is a possibility that the drain pump is clogged. It should also be removed, checked and cleaned;

the third version - the pump has broken down and requires a complete replacement.

But here it should be noted that pump failure most often does not lead to the impossibility of water drainage, but becomes the cause of its leakage, which is also not very good.

It happens suddenly. Many argue that this problem is the most unpleasant and most frequent. As a rule, it is preceded by the most trifling little things. In the worst case, you will have to change the activator or pump, but this happens quite rarely. In a word, do not be upset:

we check the tightness of the tightening of the activator. If it dangles, then the water flows through it. The element should be tightened;

we inspect the sealing rubber rings for wear;

we check the surface of the activator itself, look for possible nicks and other damage, since it is in these places that water can seep. If everything is serious, the activator should be replaced.

To perform all manipulations with the activator, inspect the seals and oil seals, it must first be properly dismantled:

there is a plug on one side of it, which must be removed, unscrew the fasteners and remove the handle;

take out the washer with a gasket, unscrew the fastener holding the casing, remove it;

We hold the impeller of the electric motor with one hand, with the other - we unscrew the activator.

How to eliminate extraneous noise.

Sometimes they occur when the washing machine is running. In this case, the unit needs repair, but first you need to determine the reasons for the problematic issue. This can be primarily caused by overloading the centrifuge with things. As a rule, after washing several batches of laundry, the consumer tries to squeeze everything out quickly, placing the maximum number of things in the centrifuge. From overload and due to centrifugal force during rotation, the centrifuge beats against the tank, creating a loud noise.

In such a situation, it is necessary to stop the spinning process in order to avoid complete destruction of the element. It is recommended to lay things according to the norm in order to give the spinning process maximum efficiency. The extraneous sounds may be caused by various objects trapped in the centrifuge. So before washing, you should carefully check all the pockets in things.

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Most consumers believe that the Fairy washing machine is an obsolete model. But such a unit will for a long time be considered an indispensable assistant for women, students and those who do not have their own homes.

In order for your assistant to serve for a long time, certain rules should be followed that do not create difficulties:

before washing, laundry must be sorted by type of material, shade and degree of soiling;

it is forbidden to overload the washing machine;

do not use aggressive bleaching agents during washing;

after each washing process, the machine should be washed and wiped thoroughly;

do not plug the washing machine into a faulty outlet, do not use a faulty electrical network.

As a conclusion, it should be noted that although such a model is considered morally outdated, many people use it. The fact is that a normally functioning apparatus not only does not tear things, but also erases more gently when compared with a drum unit. And at the same time, the unit breaks down quite often. Since the cost of repairs can be quite high, many try to fix the problem on their own.

In conditions where it is impossible to connect to the central water supply, semi-automatic washing machines are a worthy alternative to their automated counterparts. Compared to the latter, their design is significantly simplified, however, this does not exclude the risk of breakdowns. So, one of the most common is that a centrifuge does not work in a semiautomatic washing machine (SMP).Depending on the nature of the malfunction, both self-repair and professional assistance may be required.

The name of this category of devices fully conveys their essence: despite the fact that all processes are performed automatically, their duration and sequence are still regulated by a person, and not a ready-made program. They differ from automatic ones by their lower cost, independence in relation to the water supply system, smaller dimensions and the inability to fully program the wash.... The semi-automatic machine works more stable due to its greater resistance to power surges and other problems with electricity. More detailed requirements for network parameters are set out in the instructions for use for a particular model.

The classic configuration of such washers often involves the presence of two compartments - separately for washing and spinning. They can work together or separately. In this case, before moving from one phase of washing to another (for example, from rinsing to spinning), the user needs to move the laundry himself from one chamber to another. But there are also single-chamber models in production.

Important! By the type of loading, semiautomatic devices are only vertical.

You need to wash with this unit according to the following algorithm:

connect the machine to an outlet;

fill the tank with preheated water;

load things;

pour in the detergent;

set the required mode (washing, rinsing, spinning);

start the device;

when changing modes, transfer the laundry to the appropriate compartment.

It should be noted that there are more advanced and improved machines on the market, for example, with built-in water heating, which are close to automatic in functionality. It is easier to use them, but they are, accordingly, more expensive.

In general, semi-automatic washing machines are fairly unified devices and differ little in terms of filling. Therefore, having experience in disassembling a typewriter of one brand, it will not be difficult to disassemble a similar machine from another manufacturer. Standard actions for disassembling machines - a semiautomatic device fit into the following algorithm.

Unscrew the bolts located round the body washing machines. But some manufacturers "hide" the fasteners in deep sockets on the bottom of the equipment, which can only be reached with a long screwdriver of 150 mm or more.

Disconnect the centrifuge valve and brake through the hole in the back of the case.

Loosen the bolt on the centrifuge shaft, for which you need a socket wrench: first you need to loosen the locknut, and then directly the bolt.

Next you need tilt the upper part of the machine body back, having previously shaken it to release the stuck on parts. That's it - the equipment is ready for repair.

However, due to certain design considerations, some manufacturers have different disassembly methods. So that unscrew the nut from the centrifuge tank when dismantling the engine in the NSR Siberia, it is necessary to independently make a key, the basis of which is a three-quarter-inch pipe. For SMP models from Saturn and Feya at removing the top panel it is necessary to unscrew the bolt located on the rear wall of the device and dismantle it by making a sideways movement. Users of semi-automatic machines such as Daewoo, Candy and Krista KR often have difficulty removing this panel, since the screw that secures it is hidden under a plastic plug.

The construction of the washing machine "Siberia-5M"

For many domestic machines such as Slavda (also produced under the name Renova) or Assol, the problem is the replacement of the activator. Sometimes it is not enough to remove the bolt and pull the part towards you: often it is simply impossible to hook it due to the rounded edges and smooth plastic.To remove the activator in such machines, you can screw two self-tapping screws into its holes opposite each other and, holding on to their caps, take out the element.

If, when you turn the switch to the drying / spinning mode, the machine does not start working or does it unnaturally (with a hum or strong vibrations), and the laundry is still wet, you should look for the cause in the incorrect operation of the centrifuge.... This may be due to a number of factors:

failures of the safety sensor;

breakdown of the timer;

jammed brake pads;

violation of the integrity of the electrical winding.

Important! These cases require urgent elimination of the problem by partial disassembly of the apparatus.

Most modern semi-automatic machines are equipped with a special switch that stops the engine while the centrifuge is running, when the cover that covers it is opened. This is done for security reasons. When this the sensor is stuck in the open position of the door, the spin simply does not start. Failures can occur due to contaminated contacts. To fix the problem, it is enough to clean them with cotton wool dipped in alcohol. The sensor can be reached by removing the top panel of the washing machine.

As with the safety switch, the timer is often located under the top cover of the device. It looks like a clockwork mechanism with gears hidden under a transparent plastic cover. It is secured with three screws that must be removed. Under it, among the gears, there are also contacts. Due to prolonged use, carbon deposits can form on them from intensive engine operation. Because of this, no current pulses are received and the centrifuge drum does not spin. The way to solve the problem is similar to the previous one - cotton wool and alcohol.

If you open the lid while the washing machine is running, the protection system will work and the drum will begin to gradually stop. This is ensured by the presence of brake pads located under the centrifuge. The mechanism of operation is based on the tension of the cable connecting the pads to the cover. When it is in the open position, the cable is taut and brake pads grip the rotating motor element... This is how braking occurs.

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The cable can get stuck or caught on another part, thereby activating the brake system and preventing the engine from starting, and, therefore, starting the centrifuge. To change the position of the shoes, you need to open the back cover of the washing machine and check the state of tension of the cable when the cover is slammed.

In cases where the centrifuge drum in the NSR is not gaining momentum, the cause should be sought in the motor, or rather, in its winding. To do this, use a multimeter to measure the resistance across the motor. Depending on what the indicators will be on the device, the nature of the malfunction will become clear: break (as well as burnout) wiring or short circuit... Based on the data received, a method for eliminating the problem is determined.

To diagnose the condition of the winding, it is necessary to "ring" the wiring for resistance. Usually, three wires come out of the electric motor: common, for the starting winding and for the working winding. But in order to obtain more accurate information about the device of the unit, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the wiring diagram, which is usually located inside the washer body (on one of its walls). The tester probes are attached to two different wires. If the readings on the device fluctuate between 20 and 200 ohms, then everything is normal. When the value is less, it indicates a short circuit, and when it is higher, it indicates a wire break. In the latter case, you can rewind the component or purchase a new one.

In addition to the listed breakdowns, there are others that can disrupt the spinning operation. Often they can be eliminated on their own without resorting to disassembly.Among the most common causes of centrifuge malfunction are the following:

The belt that connects the centrifuge to the engine pulleys has broken or fell off. A breakdown can be recognized if the machine hums but does not spin the drum.

The laundry is unevenly distributed, which causes the centrifuge to wobble but cannot start.

Small objects falling on the motor shaft. This can happen during spinning. To make everything work again, it is enough to remove foreign objects from the surface of the part.

If the engine of the spin system is running, but things remain wet, then the reason may lie in the malfunction of the drain system. For example, an improperly installed hose can provoke the fact that the machine simply does not drain the water squeezed out of things.

During operation, the user of the NSR may also encounter other problems that are unusual for automatic counterparts due to the characteristics of the device. For example, during washing water can overflow from the washing tub into the spinning drum... This is due to a broken or clogged bypass valve. The problem is solved by cleaning it or completely replacing it.

Also while drying laundry from under the semiautomatic machine can weep out liquid... This indicates a leak in the tank, loose connections or fasteners of the hydraulic system (hose, exhaust valve, etc.), as well as worn cuffs, bushings, bearings or pipes. In such cases, the fasteners are tightened, the tightness of the parts is restored using cold welding, and the worn out components are replaced with new ones. Such problems of a mechanical nature are not uncommon and can be eliminated by hand.

Another nuisance that makes it difficult to work with semiautomatic devices is breakdown of the gearbox... This unit is responsible for the stable operation of the device (including spinning), reducing the number of revolutions transmitted from the engine to the drum. This allows you to reduce vibrations and protects the motor from wear and tear, and its breakdown is characterized by strong vibration of the washing machine and difficult movement of the drum, up to its complete blockage. At the same time, gearbox repair is most often associated with replacing worn out gears or lubricating them, as well as cleaning the part from scale, dried lubricant and small debris.

Important! Despite the fact that semi-automatic washing machines are more resistant to external factors, you should not neglect the basic principles of their operation. The further use of the semiautomatic device in case of any of the breakdowns described in the article is unacceptable.