Do-it-yourself whirlpool washing machine repair

In detail: DIY repair of a whirlpool washing machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

There are a huge variety of different models and manufacturers of washing machines in home appliance stores. One of these brands is Whirlpool. Units are produced in Slovakia and Italy. All units are of high quality. However, there are times when it is necessary to repair the "Whirlpool" washing machines. A washing machine is a complex mechanism that has many possible causes of breakdown and repair methods. Today we will consider the most common malfunctions and tell you how to carry out DIY repairs to the "Whirlpool" washing machine.

Important! According to statistics, one car out of fifteen is repaired.

One of the most common causes of malfunction in washing machines from different manufacturers is the lack of draining the liquid. Almost every person has come across the fact that the unit does not drain water after completing the program.

Important! This drawback also manifests itself in the event that you restart the function or press the forced water drain button.

This situation can be in such cases:

blockage in the water drain pipe;
filter clogging;
a blockage that has arisen in the sewer;
breakdown of the electric pump, which is responsible for draining the water in the washer.

Before making repairs to the "Whirlpool" washing machine, regardless of whether it is top-loading or front-loading, it is necessary to free the drum from the water that has formed during washing:

You can use the emergency drain tube located next to the main hose. To do this, you just need to open the plug and substitute the basin.
The second way to drain the washing machine is to unscrew the filter. This must be done very carefully and arm yourself with a large number of rags, since all the water (there is a lot of it, despite the fact that at first glance, there is no more than five liters) will pour out of this hole. With such a drain, it will not work to substitute the basin, since the filter is located at the very bottom of the device.

Video (click to play).

To eliminate the problem associated with poor or missing water drain, it is necessary to rinse the filter and hoses from dirt and debris. Sewers should also be cleaned with a flexible cord made of wire.

Important! The above steps do not require any special skills or disassembly of the Whirlpool washing machine. If you have cleaned all the pipes and the unit still does not work, then repair of the "Whirlpool" washing machine is required - you will do this with your own hands or call the master, decide based on your practical skills.

To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to disassemble the unit body and get to the drain pipe and coupling.

How to get to the drain pipe:

Remove the detergent drawer.
We disconnect the washing machine from the power supply, water supply and sewerage system.
We turn the unit and place it on its side on the carpet.
Unscrew the bolts.
We remove the bottom.
We measure the resistance at open contacts using a multimeter.
If the problem is in the drain pump, replace the old one with a new one. If the reason is not in him - we move on.
We slightly unscrew the clamps that hold the drain pipe.
We clean it from debris and dirt.
We put in place.

After these steps, the water in the machine will drain properly. Consider the following reason.

Sometimes owners of washing machines are faced with the fact that the display has stopped working normally. A broken display is easy to spot. During washing, the entire panel and all buttons will flash, while nothing happens to the program that is running. It works as it should.

To check the panel for serviceability, you must turn off the washing machine from the mains for a couple of minutes. If, when turning on, the problem still manifests itself, then you need to call the wizard or take the device to a service center. It is impossible to repair the electronic panel yourself!

Important! There is another variant of the development of events - the washing machine turns on, you set the program, and then a failure occurs - it turns off completely and does not react in any way to your actions.

In this case, most likely there is a different situation, which we examined in detail in a separate article "Knocks out the machine when the washing machine is turned on."

Have you thought that you need to repair the "Whirlpool" washing machines, since the water is not heated during washing? Then you need to independently ascertain the cause of the breakdown. If the temperature does not correspond to the one declared when choosing the program, then the only reason is the breakdown of the heating element or thermistor.

Important! Remember that the breakdown of the heating element in 90% of cases is caused by poor water quality and lack of maintenance of the equipment during its operation. But you can easily prevent such a malfunction if:

regularly carry out maintenance on the washing machine;
from time to time, use special or at least improvised means to descale.

In any case, it is necessary to diagnose this malfunction.

Using a screwdriver, unscrew the bolts that hold the back cover.
We remove the bracket that interferes with getting to the heating element.
There is a heating element in front of you - this is a metal plate with contacts and wires.
We disconnect the wires.
Using a special device - a multimeter, we measure the resistance.
We measure the resistance of the heating element.

At this point, you will notice that the reading is zero. In this case, it is necessary to make repairs to the "Whirlpool" washing machine with your own hands, namely, to replace the heating element. To do this, you need to remove the old heating element.

Important! Often, it is possible to determine the breakdown of the heating element without a multimeter. The plate burns to the surface so much that a thick layer of scale forms, which can be up to one centimeter thick.

If there is strong scale and it is impossible to detach the plate the first time, you must use a special tool WD-40.

The heating element is installed on a rubber gasket, which must also be replaced if the heating element breaks down. This is due to the fact that an unreplaced rubber band may leak during operation, which will lead to serious consequences.

After you have installed a new heating element, you need to reconnect all the wires to it and tighten. Replace the back cover. Simply put, the assembly process is the same as disassembly, only in reverse order.

One of the most common problems is water leakage from the window when a program is running. Before thinking about repairing the Whirlpool washing machine, you need to know exactly the cause of this malfunction.

Water can flow out of the hatch only due to a poor rubber cuff, which is fixed on the inside of the window. This part is designed to keep water out.

Important! It is necessary to constantly monitor the cleanliness of the gum. So, during washing, dirt and a small amount of water constantly collect in the lower part of the cuff. As a result, rubber can burst, crack and leak water.

We open the hatch as much as possible.
Use a small screwdriver to pry on the plastic holder in which the elastic is fixed.
We find a bolt on the rubber lining - this is the place where the cuff is attached.
We unscrew the bolt, thereby straightening the cuff.
With a little force we pull on the cuff, and it will succumb to you.
Gently insert a new rubber band. The use of sharp objects at this stage is not recommended.
We put on the collar.
We tighten the bolt.
We use a washing machine.

Important! When buying a new cuff, we strongly recommend that you opt for the original model, which is produced in Slovakia or Italy. Don't buy cheap cuffs that won't last you long and will do more damage to your device.

In order not to think about repairing the "Whirlpool" washing machine with your own hands, you should constantly take care of the unit. Namely:

install surge protectors that will protect all electronic parts and contacts;
clean filters after several washes;
wipe the cuff;
check pockets before washing;
use only special detergents;
correctly calculate the weight of bed linen.

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Unscrew the screws and remove the bottom.

Equip yourself with a tester and measure the resistance of the pump.

If you find a problem, change your pump.

Image - Do-it-yourself whirlpool washing machine repair

If the pump has nothing to do with it, then proceed.

Loosen the clamps on the water drain pipe.

Remove the nipple.

Clean and rinse it.

Reinstall the nipple.

This breakdown is typical for machines with any type of load. The device of the Whirlpool top-loading washing machine is somewhat different than that of conventional SM, but the problem with it must be solved in the same way.

Often, after starting the washing machine, the control panel begins to behave inadequately: the display blinks, and with it all the LEDs flash. Also, the program you selected may not work.

If this is your case, then immediately turn off the CM, and wait 60 seconds. Then turn it on and, if the problem is not resolved, it is worth calling the wizard, since the control module is damaged, and repairing it yourself is almost impossible. You will need not only a diagram of the control module of the Whirlpool washing machine, but also experience in such a repair.

If the washing machine does not want to heat the water and does not wash the laundry well, then it is possible, without the help of special devices, to determine the breakdown and carry out an independent repair.

The most likely reason for this behavior is a breakdown of the thermistor (temperature sensor), but the heating element could also fail. Be that as it may, it is worth checking both elements together. Then proceed according to this simple scheme:

Turn the machine so that the front wall is in front of you - this will make it easier to work.
Unscrew the bolts and remove the rear panel.
Next, remove the bracket by unscrewing the bolts so that it does not interfere with working with the heater.
You will not see the entire heating element right away - only its shank is visible under the tank, to which four wires go, two of which are connected to the heater itself, and the rest to the temperature sensor.
Remove all wires.
Take a tester and measure the resistance of the temperature sensor contacts. Check the readings at room temperature, and then - heating the sensor in warm water, they should differ significantly if the sensor is working properly.
Next, measure the resistance on the heating element itself. Its normal readings are 20-40 ohms.

With such a problem, the breakdown is likely to be confirmed, so you will have to replace the sensor (which is easier) or the heating element.

Important! If you do not have a tester at hand, immediately remove the heating element from the tank by unscrewing the fasteners. You will quickly identify the malfunction if the heating element is covered with a thick layer of scale, or dark spots have gone along it. If there is very little scale, then the heating element may not have burned out, and if the water stone is 1 cm thick or more, the breakage is obvious.

With your own hands, you can easily change the heating element as follows:

The contacts and wires have already been removed, so then remove the plastic shield.
Unscrew the mount - it is in the center of the shank.
Gently pulling on the contacts, loosening the heater in different directions, remove the heating element.The rubber pad will interfere, so be patient - there is nothing you can do about it.
Having taken out the heating element, remove the gasket.

Important! Mechanics recommend installing a new gasket together with a new heater, since leaks due to gasket wear are destructive for this important unit.

In the hole where the heating element was, there is probably debris and scale, so carry out a general cleaning; only then can the gasket be installed.
Install a new heating element, tighten the mount.
Replace the plastic shield.
Connect contacts to heater and sensor.
Reposition the bracket, and finally refit the car panel.

When, in the washing or rinsing mode, water flows from under the door of the Whirlpool automatic washing machine, it starts imperceptibly - first a couple of drops, then a thin trickle, and sooner or later the deluge begins altogether.

You do not need a diagram of the Whirlpool washing machine to find the cuff that is responsible for the breakdown. It is visible to the naked eye as well - it is a large rubber pad in your CM. It is located along the entire inner perimeter of the hatch, and its main task is to keep water out.

The most vulnerable point of the seal is at the bottom, because dirty water often remains there. If not tidied up periodically, the cuff may burst. It is enough to slightly touch the worn seal to break it - then the leak cannot be avoided.

Important! Do not use a machine with a torn cuff - it will not be able to hold water. If a break is found, the cuff needs to be replaced URGENTLY.

If you are used to making repairs at home, then dismantle the old one and mount a new cuff.

Open the manhole cover as wide as possible.
Arm yourself with a slotted screwdriver and hook up the wire clamp - it is located over the collar.
After prying the collar, slide the screwdriver deeper under it and move it in a circle until you come across a connector with fasteners.
Loosen the clamp and remove it.
Take the seal with both hands and pull it out towards you.

For the attention of users: buy cuffs from authorized dealers. The original part will fit into the hatch groove clearly to the millimeter and protect the tank from leaks.

Unpack the part and insert it into the groove.

Important! Do not use anything sharp so as not to break the seal - do everything ONLY with your hands.

Once the elastic is in place, quickly slide on the collar and tighten.
Check if the hatch closes and opens normally.
Start washing in test mode.
If it's dry under the typewriter, congratulations, you did it "perfectly"!

If water flows in a vertical type machine, then the reason may not be in the hatch at all - it is on top of it. You will most likely need to disassemble your Whirlpool top-loading washing machine to determine the cause of the leak.

There are a number of other reasons why the washing machine may leak:

The pump is flowing.
Depressurization of the tank - crack, hole, corrosion.
The drain or water intake pipes are damaged.
Depressurization of the water inlet branch pipe connection.
Depressurization of the connections between the inlet valve and the powder cuvette.
Oil seal wear.
Blockage in the metering hopper.
Tank drain tube worn.

Most of these breakdowns are simple and you can repair the leak yourself. The most important thing in this case is to correctly diagnose the problem. The trouble codes will help you with this.

The following error codes may light up on the display: F01 or FH, F02 or FA, F03 or FP, F14, FDL, FDU.

If you still have questions about repairing breakdowns of Whirlpool brand washing machines, read our other materials, in which we analyze in detail each individual malfunction.

In this article, we have considered only typical breakdowns that can be fixed without the help of a repairman. And if you are wondering how to change the bearing on the Whirlpool washing machine, watch an additional special video:

Equipment does not always break down during the warranty period.Therefore, the user has to independently solve the issues of restoring the operation of the washing machine. Whirlpool washing machines can be repaired by yourself. In the post, we will provide a step-by-step troubleshooting guide. To do this, you need hands and a small set of tools.

More and more often, Whirlpool washing machines of Slovak assembly are supplied to our markets, less often - Italian. And although the users of this technique turn to the services 15 times less often than the owners of other brands, breakdowns still happen.

Troubleshooting is made easier with built-in system diagnostics. Failure of a unit or part of the CMA is displayed on the screen with an error code (FH, F02, F05, F06, F07, F09, F10, F11, F13, F14, F15, Sud, FdL, FdU). The meaning of the code can be found in the instructions, and then proceed with the repair of the device.

What are the most common fault codes:

F02 - water does not leave the tank.
FH / F09 - overflow, problems with the pressure switch.
F06 - problems with the engine or tachometer.
FdL / FdU - problems with blocking the hatch.

But even if the error did not get out on the display, you can determine the breakdown by external signs. In theory, anything can break in the washer. We will only list typical faults that users deal with most often.

Heating element problems... Washing takes place in cold water, the laundry is poorly washed and rinsed.
Engine malfunction... The drum does not spin well or does not spin at all. Things are not push-ups. Perhaps the reason is the wear of the motor brushes.
Leaking from under the hatch... Damaged or worn seal lip, metal corrosion.
Broken electronic board... The machine does not turn on or malfunctions, programs are not activated correctly.
Water does not drain from the tank... The reason is blockages, pump malfunction.

In half of the cases, repairs are carried out independently, at home. How? More on this below.

Start by preparing the technique. This also applies to your safety: disconnect the machine from the mains, close the water inlet valve. Now you can figure out the causes of the problem and decide where to start the repair.

It is likely that you are faced with such a situation: you loaded the laundry, started the wash, and at the end the machine refused to drain the water. There may be three reasons for this:

Clogged drain or filter.
The hose or drain is clogged.
The pump is out of order.

You can check the system for clogging without disassembling the MCA. Start by unscrewing the filter:

There is a small door under the loading door.
Open it, substitute the container.
Unscrew the filter plug counterclockwise.

Remove debris from the filter mesh. In the opened landing hole, you can inspect the pump impeller. Sometimes it is blocked by hair, threads that wind on its axis. Clean out debris from the impeller.

Now check the hose. Direct connection to the sewer often leads to its clogging. It is much better to connect the drain hose to a siphon. It is easier to clean when needed.

Sewerage cleaning is carried out with special means or the help of a plumber is needed.

If the parts are cleaned, but the drain has not improved, then check the pipe and pump. To do this, lay the washer body on one side.

Take out the powder dispenser.
Place an old blanket or towel on the floor.
Turn the SM body on its side.
Loosen the hose clamp. Remove it from its place, clean it from the blockage. You can rinse the part with warm water.

Check your pump. In the event of a malfunction, a replacement is carried out: disconnect the wiring from the pump contacts, unscrew the fastening bolts.

Your clothes get rid of dirt well thanks to the high temperature and detergent. In cold water, the powder does not dissolve completely, so stains do not come off well. The heating element is responsible for heating in the washing machine. Scale becomes a common cause of its breakdowns. To check or replace an element, do this:

Remove the top cover by unscrewing the screws on the back.
Remove the bolts around the rear cover. Take it off.
There is a heating element under the tank.

Disconnect the wiring, remove the thermistor from the heater body.
Check the heater for serviceability (for details on the diagnostic process, read "How to check the heating element in the SMA").
If the element is out of order, then twist the central nut and push the bolt inward.
Take out the old heating element, clean its socket from debris and scale.

Install a new heater.

Some suggest installing the old gasket on the new TEN if it is intact. We recommend changing the gasket too to eliminate the risk of leakage and new replacement.

Notice the slow spin of the reel? Does the outlet remain wet and not wrung out? It's time to check the condition of the engine brushes and drive belt.

In collector motors, the rotor is supplied with current through the brushes. They are installed on the sides of the case. The rods of the elements made of soft material will wear out, causing the operation to stop.

Dismantle the rear wall.
Remove the drive belt. Examine it. When stretched and worn, the part must be replaced.
When replacing the brushes for the first time, it is better to remove the motor from the case.
Disconnect its wiring, remove the bolts.

Disconnect the terminals of the brushes, remove them from the housing.
When worn more than half, replacement is required. Insert new parts into holes, secure wiring.

Spin problems can be related to bearing wear. At the same time, extraneous sounds are heard: creaking, hum.

Washers of the "Whirpool" family have an unpleasant feature - rapid corrosion of the body. Some parts of the clipper are made of metals, which corrode quickly and can lead to leakage. Damaged panels need to be replaced, staining will not help them.

Leaks can arise from the cuff of the hatch. Rubber is sensitive to long-term accumulation of moisture. If not wiped off in time, the cuff will wear out, crack and leak. Only a complete replacement will help.

Fold back the seal. Pry the clamp with a screwdriver, remove it from the place.
Tuck the rubber into the drum.

To remove the inner clamp, you can remove the front panel or loosen the clamp screw through the top cover.
Then carefully remove the rubber.

Installation of new rubber is carried out in the reverse order. Lubricate the edges with detergent to make installation easier.

Problems with a part of the electronics are manifested in braking modes, incorrect start of programs, "glitches". Repair requires a control module schematic.

It is better to entrust this work to the master. And you can inspect the board yourself:

Remove the top cover.
Remove the detergent drawer.
Remove the bolts around the control panel.
Disconnect the wiring from the module.
Remove the top guard by unfastening the latches.

Burning or oxidation on the surface of the board indicates a malfunction. Take the part to a service or call a specialist at home.

Not only front models are prone to breakage. However, the repair work is described only for them. We decided to correct this oversight.

Almost all verticals are arranged the same:

In such machines, the bearing and other parts are more likely to wear out, because all the nodes are close to each other. To fix the problem, you still need to get to it.

How to disassemble the Whirlpool washing machine:

Disconnect the device from the mains and water supply.
Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry out the control panel latches. Pull out the wiring pins if necessary.
To remove the top panel, unscrew the screws at the back. Lift it up, secure with a string or chain so that the lid does not fall off.
Unfasten the balancing ring latches on the centrifuge. Move it aside.
Unscrew the screw and take out the centrifuge activator.
Twist the axle washer and remove the drum from the tank.

Assembly is carried out upside-down. Along the way, you can inspect and replace the necessary items.

If your vertical loading device is different from the one described, watch the video on how to change the bearing on a vertical loading machine:

Take care of your equipment and take care of it. Then you won't have to repair it.The standard care rules are described in the manufacturer's instructions.

Currently, the market of the CIS countries is mainly represented by Whirlpool washing machines assembled in Italy or Slovakia. Italian cars are quite expensive and less common, but Slovak washing machines are available in every home appliance store. Perhaps due to European assembly, such machines break down infrequently and repair of Whirlpool washing machines is required only for one of 15 owners of such equipment. Nevertheless, you need to study its features, because you never know what!

Any complex technique, especially household one, can potentially break anything. If you list all, without exception, possible breakdowns of modern automatic Whirlpool washing machines and describe their elimination, you can write a book about this. Therefore, within the framework of the article, we will only talk about typical defects, which, according to statistics provided by service centers, are most common.

The water does not leave the machine after washing.
Washing programs are buggy, do not work as they should, or do not activate at all.
The water drawn for washing does not heat up according to the set program.
Water leaks during washing from under the closed manhole cover.

Note! In these typical signs of breakdowns, serious malfunctions are encrypted, the elimination of which is of paramount importance, since otherwise the Whirlpool washing machine may break down completely.

Probably, this happened to you too, put the laundry in the drum, put on your favorite washing program and go to another room to do your household chores. After a while, come back, the machine is frozen, there is a full tank of soapy water in it, and of course the washing is not completed. You restart the machine, history repeats itself, the wash cannot be completed, since the water does not leave the tank. What to do in such a situation, and what is the cause of the problem? There are three main reasons:

there is a blockage in the drain pipe or drain filter;
there is a blockage in the drain hose or sewer;
the electric drain pump has broken.

But before you start to find out the reason for the breakdown of your Whirlpool car, you need to prepare it with your own hands, namely, turn off and drain the water from the tank manually. Quickly and safely remove all water from the tank through the emergency drain hoselocated next to the drain filter. It is necessary to substitute a basin or other container under the hose and open the stopper and all the water will flow out by itself. Next, let's start looking for a breakdown, moving from simple to complex.

We put a container or rag under the hole of the drain filter and unscrew the plug. We clean the filter from dirt and put the plug in place.
Carefully unscrew the drain hose and clean it from dirt, then screw it into place.
We check if the sewer is not clogged.

The above steps do not imply disassembly of the Whirlpool washing machine, therefore, after carrying out a "general" cleaning, try to start the machine again. If nothing has changed and the machine still refuses to drain the water, then you will have to climb into its body.

Important! In almost all models of Whirlpool washing machines, in order to get to the drain pipe and the pump, you just need to turn the machine on its side and remove the bottom.

To get to the details of interest to us, we will perform the following steps:

take out the powder tray;
we disconnect the machine from the water supply, sewerage and electrical network;
we put the machine on its side;
unscrew the fasteners and remove the bottom;
we take a multimeter and measure the resistance at the pump contacts;
we change the drain pump to a new one, if the problem is not in it, then proceed to the next stage;
we loosen the clamps of the drain pipe and remove it;
we clean from blockages and put in place.

It so happens that after turning on the washing machine, its control panel seems to go crazy. The display starts flashing, and it is echoed by all the lights and indicators of the toggle switch. In this case, the washing program may not be set. If you are faced with something like this, unplug the machine immediately and wait about 1 minute. Then turn on the Whirlpool washing machine again and if the problem persists, call the wizard. Here it is a matter of the control board, and it is extremely difficult to repair it with your own hands, it is better not even to waste time and effort.

But if your machine refuses to wash in warm water, then you can not only independently determine the malfunction, but also fix it yourself, without the help of a specialist. Most likely the reason lies in the heating element or thermistor, in any case, you will have to check both elements at once. We act as follows.

We turn the washing machine with the back wall towards us, so that it is convenient.
We unscrew the bolts and remove the back wall of the machine.
We unscrew the bracket, which will interfere with working with the heating element.
At the bottom of the tank, we will see two protruding contacts - these are ten. Four wires fit to it, two in the middle to the thermistor and two along the edges to the heating element, you need to disconnect them all.
We take a multimeter and measure the resistance of the thermistor contacts.
If everything is in order, we measure the resistance on the heating element.

In this case, you will most likely find a malfunction and you will have to replace the heating element. Usually, when removing the heating element from the tank, the cause of the breakdown becomes immediately clear, since the surface of the heating element is completely covered with scale. If there is a little scale, then the teng will not burn out from it, it is another matter if the layer of water stone is more than a centimeter - this leads to a breakdown of the element of the Whirlpool washing machine. We will replace the heating element with our own hands.

We have already removed the contacts with the wires, now we will unscrew the plastic shield.
Next, unscrew the bolt that is located between the large contacts of the heating element.
We grasp the contacts of the heating element with our hands and pull it towards ourselves, if the heating element does not go, try to gently shake it. The rubber pad will get in the way a little, but it can't be helped
Having pulled out the heating element, we also remove the gasket.

Note! Experts recommend not to install a new heating element on an old rubber gasket, it is better to change it together with the heating element, since a leak for this element is the worst thing.

We take out dirt and pieces of scale from the hole formed, thoroughly clean the edges, and then insert a new gasket.
We insert a new ten and fasten it.
We fasten the plastic shield.
We connect the contacts with wires to the thermistor.
We connect the contacts with wires to the heating element, put the bracket and the back wall in place.

If, during washing and rinsing, water leaks from under the hatch of your Whirlpool washing machine, first a little, a few drops, then more and more, then you need to carefully inspect the largest rubber gasket in the machine - the cuff. It is impossible not to notice the cuff, since it encircles the opening of the hatch and serves to keep water out of the tank.

Pay particular attention to the bottom edge of the cuff as dirty water often collects there. And if you do not wipe it, then the rubber of the cuff in this place begins to crack and burst. In the future, it is worth touching it a little and it breaks. A torn cuff cannot be used, since it will not hold water, you will have to change it. First, we properly dismantle the old cuff.

We open the hatch cover as wide as possible.
We take a flathead screwdriver and try to pry off the thin wire clamp that is located on the outside of the cuff and holds it.
As soon as we manage to pry it off, we bring a screwdriver harder under it and begin to move in a circle until we find a connecting element with a bolt.
We loosen the clamp and remove it to the side.
We grasp the cuff with both hands and pull it out with effort.

Be sure to purchase only the original cuff for replacement, which clearly fits into the groove of the hatch of this model of the Whirlpool washing machine, otherwise problems may arise.

Unpack the new cuff and push it into the groove. In this case, you need to do everything carefully and naturally, do not use any sharp tools like a screwdriver. As soon as we manage to put the cuff in place, we put a clamp on it, tighten it. We check that the hatch closes normally and start a test wash.

Summing up, we note that European-assembled Whirlpool washing machines are relatively reliable and do not have many typical breakdowns. Most often, problems arise due to the fact that the user himself does not take good care of his "home assistant" does not clean the hoses and filters on time, does not wipe the cuff, and all this ultimately results in a malfunction. Take care of your washing machine, and it will not have to be repaired often!

Video (click to play).