Do-it-yourself asko washing machine repair

In detail: DIY repair of an asko washing machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

When it comes to professional repair of Asko washing machines, it is required much less often compared to other competitive brands. In Russia, ASKO washers are less common than Whirpool, LG, Ariston and other common brands.

Today we will talk about this specifics, about common breakdowns and the fault codes that indicate them.

Despite the fact that Asko's cars are less common than others, they break down with enviable consistency. The owners of such equipment ask service centers and workshops for help, reporting the same problems:

The tank is not spinning, or the drum is not spinning fast enough.
The hatch cannot be closed or is blocked.
The laundry is washed in cold water at the selected high temperature marks. The water stays cold on any program.
The Asko washing machine does not drain the used water, the program hangs.

Of course, there are other breakdowns, but they are much less common or typical for all washing machines. We will consider only those that are characteristic of this particular brand.

By the way, the situation around the CM under the Asko logo is a bit strange. It is known from reliable sources that a quarter of all families in Finland buy these machines and are satisfied with the quality of their work. If you look at the statistics of Finnish service centers, then Asko in terms of quality are on a par with Miele and AEG (German assembly).

But in the Russian Federation and the CIS, the situation is completely opposite - our Asko cars break down constantly. It is impossible to say unequivocally what affects this - the build quality, the quality of water or washing powder. Breakdowns due to violation of the rules of use, which are clearly spelled out in the operating instructions, are not excluded.

Video (click to play).

If you come across a Finnish or Swedish-made SM, then you are lucky, congratulations! Even if you buy a used machine that has successfully worked in Europe for 10 years, it will serve you for at least another 15 years.

In order to recognize the cause of the breakdown, the malfunction itself and make repairs at home, you need to know what the codes mean by which the washing machine reports the problem.

In Asko models, the most common error codes are: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E06, Door lock fault, Floaming, Over flov, Termistor fault, Pressure sensor error.

Consider in detail the reason for the occurrence and ways of solving each of them:

2. The valve for filling the water in the machine is broken.

3. Blockage in the inlet hose.

4. Broken control board.

5. The water level sensor is out of order.

Breakage of the locking device.

Not in all cases it is possible to carry out self-repair of such complex electrical equipment as a washing machine. But in some situations this is quite possible if you follow the instructions that we will give below.

If you are faced with a situation in which the engine fails to rotate the tank of laundry normally, or the drum has stopped completely, you need to figure out what caused this. The problem is that the self-diagnosis system of malfunctions does not always work, as a result, the SM does not work, and does not show any codes on the display.

Try to figure out the cause yourself. Most often, the machine behaves this way because of the drive belt. It might not have jumped off, but the drum pulley still does not pick up normal speed. Then it turns out that even an incompletely loaded tank stands rooted to the spot or does not rotate fast enough - only at a speed of 100-150 revolutions per minute.

This speed is not enough to wash, rinse or wring out something.

Delving deeper into the essence of the breakdown, you may find that the drive belt has nothing to do with it - it can be completely intact (apart from small scuffs, they are characteristic of “aged” parts). The result of the problem may be the pulley itself - it is either initially of poor quality, or damaged in operation. As a result, a poor-quality or broken pulley spoils the belt and itself needs to be replaced.

If you decide to carry out the repair yourself, without overpaying the masters, proceed in the following sequence:

Important! If at the same time an error is issued E01, then the problem may be in the engine or control module. It is better to entrust the repair of these complex components to a good technician.

This video demonstrates another way to remove the pulley:

If the hatch does not close, then DIY repair is also possible - this breakdown in service centers is classified as light. It is also easy to identify a breakdown - at first, the hatch mechanism does not work, and the machine freezes during the start of the wash program.

Housewives often do not consider this problem serious and brilliantly solve the issue by securing the hatch with a knee and restarting the unit. After such actions, the machine washes, but not for long: maybe a year, or maybe a month. As a result, the hatch mechanism still takes its toll and stops working, so the machine sooner or later stops working.

It is necessary to disassemble the sunroof locking device (UBL) and change the locking mechanism. Therefore, having noticed even the first symptoms that the door of the machine does not want to be blocked, it is better to immediately inform a specialist about this or try to disassemble the CM and replace the UBL on your own.

A little less often, Asko's washing machines have a problem with water heating. This applies to washing machines with any load: vertical or horizontal. The problem, for its quick localization and elimination, is reported by the code E05 or E06. As we examined in the table, errors are triggered by several breakdowns.

If the contact between the sensor and the module is broken, the sensor does not send a signal to the controller that the water is not hot enough, and as a result, the machine washes it in ice water.

The triac of the board is responsible for controlling the heating element - a heating element. If the triac breaks down, the heating element does not start heating the water.

Everything is simple here - if the heating element is covered with scale and burned out, there is NOTHING to heat the water.

Your task is to establish which of the above is to blame for the fact that the laundry is washed in cold water and, of course, is not washed from deep stains.

Important! In most SMA heating elements and a temperature sensor are located either in the front or in the back of the tank. But in the ASKO brand, the placement of the heater is non-standard - it is located on the side of the tank.

Not everyone knows how to get to it without problems with such an arrangement of the heater. In fact, there is nothing difficult in this - unscrew the back wall, remove the drive belt (so that it does not interfere) and you will see the contacts of the heating element - they will "look" at you directly from the tank, from the side.

Proceed strictly in the following sequence:

We strongly do not recommend trying to fix the work of the board yourself - remember that sometimes it costs up to 1/3 of the price for the entire machine, so in case of failure, repairs will be very expensive. Entrust the repair or replacement of the board to an experienced technician.

Whatever model your Asko brand CMA is (W402, W502, W512D, etc.), such a problem may occur in it: the water does not drain, the machine hangs, but not a drop of water under the body. The reasons for this:

Clogged drain hose, nozzles.
Breakdown of the drain pump (pump).
Breakage of the water level sensor.
An open in the contacts of the pump or sensor with the electronic module.

Do not try to get close to electronics right away - first arrange your typewriter "Maundy Thursday". Take the effort, and perhaps the problem will be resolved without repair. You need to clean everything - the pump, the drain hose, the pipes. With a little tinkering, you get the perfect drain.

In addition, this video shows you how to clean the filter:

If cleaning the problem does not solve the problem, then again arm yourself with a tester and check everything that may be involved in the breakdown: the drain pump, the water level sensor and the electrician (wires and contacts).

Ring the pump (pump) first. The working resistance of the pump is 144 ohms, the level sensor is 60 ohms. Other values will indicate a breakdown. If all is well with the pump and sensor, ring the wires.

If no break is found, then the problem lies in the control board, and in this case, as we have already said, it is better not to save money and call the wizard.

In the article, we will consider what malfunctions of Asko washing machines consumers may encounter, how to eliminate them and cases where there is a danger of self-repair.

The owners of such equipment ask service centers and workshops for help, reporting the same problems:

• The tank is not spinning or the drum is not spinning fast enough.

• The door cannot be closed or is blocked.

• The laundry is washed in cold water at the selected high temperature marks. The water remains cold during any program.

• The Asko washing machine does not drain the used water, the program hangs.

Of course, there are other breakdowns, but they are much less common.

In order to recognize the cause of the breakdown, the malfunction itself and make repairs at home, you need to know what the codes mean by which the washing machine reports the problem.

In Asko models, the most common error codes are: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E06, Door lock fault, Floaming, Over flov, Termistor fault, Pressure sensor error.

Consider in detail the reason for the occurrence and ways of solving each of them:

Error (title or translation)

The failure was caused by a failure of the control triac and the reverse relay on the control module. Connectors could "fly off" or the motor itself broke.

Does not collect enough water.

• There is no water supply from the water supply system.

• Broken valve for filling water into the machine.

• The water level sensor is out of order.

Waste water discharge problem.

The contacts of the drain pump (pump) could be out of order, the pump itself or the electronic controller was broken. The breakdown may also involve the water level sensor in the tank.

Not enough water is supplied to complete the program.

The inlet hose is clogged. Or there is simply not enough pressure in the water pipes.

The heating element has broken or the electronic module has failed.

Door lock fault

• Breakage of the locking device.

There is a lot of foam in the tank.

The dosage of the detergent may not be correct. Alternatively, you should give preference to products with a reduced level of foaming.

Too much water has filled the tank.

Overflow can be caused by broken:

Termistor fault

Open or short circuit of the temperature sensor (thermistor).

Pressure sensor error

Breakage of the water level sensor in the tank.

The sensor itself or the branch pipe connecting it to the drum could fail.

Not in all cases it is possible to carry out self-repair of such complex electrical equipment as a washing machine. But some of the breakdowns can be eliminated if you follow the instructions that we will give below.

If you are faced with a situation in which the engine fails to rotate the tank of laundry normally, or the drum is completely frozen, you need to figure out how this was provoked. The problem is that the self-diagnosis system does not always work. As a result, the washing machine does not work, but it does not show any codes on the display.

Try to figure out the cause yourself. Most often, the machine behaves this way because of the drive belt. It might not have jumped off, but the drum pulley still does not pick up normal speed. Then it turns out that even an incompletely loaded tank stands rooted to the spot, or does not rotate fast enough - only at a speed of 100-150 rpm. This is not enough to wash, rinse or wring out something.

Delving into the essence of the breakdown, you may find that the drive belt has nothing to do with it - it can be absolutely intact (apart from small scuffs, they are characteristic of “aged” parts). The result of the problem may be the pulley itself - either initially of poor quality, or damaged in operation. In this case, he spoils the belt and needs to be replaced himself.

If you decide to carry out the repair yourself without overpaying for the service, proceed in the following sequence:

2. Pull the drive belt off the pulleys and inspect for damage.

3. Inspect the engine pulley. If defects are found, the problem is in it - we proceed further.

4. Free the engine from the wires and remove it from the machine.

5. Equip yourself with a household bearing puller and blowtorch. Take whatever you need for your renovation and head to your garage, workshop, or the street, as it’s best not to do this kind of work in your home.

6. Place the puller on the engine pulley and apply sufficient tension. Do not try to rip off the pulley with the first movement - this will not bring results, and the puller may fly apart.

7. After warming up the blowtorch, heat the pulley, being careful not to involve other elements of the part in this process.

8. After you have warmed up the pulley well enough, it will easily come off.

9. Cool down the pulley, take it with you as a sample and go to the store for a new part. If you cannot find what you are looking for in stores or on the market, order online.

10. The new pulley must also be warmed up red for blowtorch installation.

11. After planting the pulley, cool it, then place the engine where it was. If the belt is badly damaged, replace it too.

12. Reattach the back panel. Plug in and test the machine with no load.

Important! If at the same time an error is issued E01, then the problem may be in the engine or control module. It is better to entrust the repair of these complex components to a good technician.

If the hatch does not close, then DIY repair is also possible - this breakdown in service centers is classified as light. It is not difficult to identify a breakdown - at first, the hatch mechanism does not work, and the machine freezes during the start of the wash program.

Consumers often do not consider this a serious problem and solve the issue by pressing the door harder and restarting the unit. After such actions, the machine washes, but not for long: maybe a year, or maybe a month. As a result, the mechanism takes its toll and stops working, so the machine sooner or later stops working.

A little less common is a problem with water heating, which is indicated by the code E05 or E06 on the display. This applies to washing machines with any load - vertical or horizontal. As we examined in the table, errors are triggered by several breakdowns.

If the contact between the sensor and the module is broken, then the sensor does not give the controller a signal that the water is not hot enough, and as a result, the machine washes it in ice water.

The triac of the board is responsible for controlling the heating element - a heating element. If the triac breaks down, the heating element does not start heating the water.

Everything is simple here - if the heating element is covered with scale and burned out, there is nothing to heat the water with.

Your task is to establish which of the above is to blame for the fact that the laundry is washed in cold water and, of course, is not washed from deep stains.

Important! Usually the heating element and the temperature sensor are located either in the front or in the back of the tank. But in the ASKO brand, the placement of the heater is non-standard - it is located on the side of the tank.

Not everyone knows how to get to the heater with this placement.But there is nothing difficult in this - unscrew the back wall, remove the drive belt (so that it does not interfere), and you will see the contacts of the heating element - they will "look" at you directly from the tank, from the side.

Then proceed strictly in the following sequence:

1. Equip yourself with a tester and set the regulator to min value.

2. Remove the contacts from the sensor and heater.

3. Connect the probes to the contacts. If the resistance on the tester's display is about 28-30 Ohm (the power of the heating element is usually 2 kW), then the part is in complete order. And if the display is 0 or 1, there is a breakdown.

4. Check the resistance of the temperature sensor - it may also be involved in the problem:

• Disconnect the drain pipe from the tank and drain the waste water into a bucket or other container (be careful not to flood the contacts, otherwise you will have to dry everything with a hairdryer).

• Remove the sensor from the connector (do not break or pull towards yourself - there is a special tab on the sensor; by pressing it, you can easily remove the sensor from the hole).

• Fill a mug or glass with warm water and dip the sensor into it to heat it up, leave for 2 minutes.

• Take out the sensor (fig. 1), take the tester, setting on it the minimum resistance value (fig. 2). Place the test leads to the contacts. Normal values for a serviceable element are 40-60 ohms (Fig. 3). If you see 0-1, then the sensor can be thrown away.

5. Check also the wires connecting the heating element and the sensor with the controller, ringing each wire in turn. If they are all intact, then the cause of the breakdown is in the electronic module.

We strongly do not recommend trying to fix the work of the board on your own - remember that sometimes it costs up to 1/3 of the price of the washing machine, so in case of failure, repairs will be very expensive. Entrust the repair or replacement of the board to an experienced technician.

Whatever model your washing machine is (W402, W502, W512D, etc.), such a problem may occur in it: the water does not drain, the machine freezes, but there is not a drop of water under the body. The reasons for this:

• Clogged drain hose, nozzles.

• Breakdown of the drain pump (pump).

• Breakage of the water level sensor.

• Open circuit in the contacts of the pump or sensor with the electronic module.

Do not try to get close to the electronics right away - first arrange your typewriter "spring cleaning". Take the effort - and, perhaps, the problem will be resolved without repair. You need to clean everything - the pump, the drain hose, the pipes. This will take some effort, but normal drainage may resume.

If cleaning the problem does not solve the problem, arm yourself with a tester again and check everything that may be involved in the breakdown: the drain pump, the water level sensor and the electrician (wires and contacts). You can reach them through the back of the washing machine.

If no break is found, then the problem lies in the control board, and in this case, as we have already said, it is better not to save money and call the wizard.

Summarize. Most of the breakdowns can be eliminated by hand if you carefully read the service instructions and information in the article. Parts can be purchased in the store or ordered online. But if the problem is in electronics, it is better not to make repairs on your own: even a specialist who re-solders the board does not guarantee that it will work. Don't finish your washing machine, trust the professionals! And may this Swedish technique serve you for years to come.

Qualified specialists of the company's factories and the widespread use of recycling allow the devices to comply with European environmental and safety standards.

Asko equipment is distinguished by external ergonomics, convenient and understandable control system, high technical characteristics and economical consumption of resources. Recessed and free-standing, full-size and compact, it fits into any space.

Products are combined in design, which gives you the opportunity to harmoniously combine a washer, dryer, drying cabinet and other elements of your laundry in one space. And kitchen appliances built into furniture will save space and become part of a modern kitchen set.

Asko presents a diverse range of washing machines, dryers and dishwashers, as well as kitchen appliances - refrigerators, hobs, ovens and hoods. The European production culture guarantees careful control at every stage, which means durability and reliability of operation.

Being engaged in professional repair of washing machines, you rarely have to deal with Asko washing machines. In Russia, they are much less common than Indesit, Samsung, LG and similar well-known brands. Repair of Asko washing machines, as well as breakdowns of such equipment, have their own specifics. These breakdowns will become the subject of our conversation.

As already mentioned, there are not many Asko washing machines in Russia, nevertheless, they break down quite often. Owners of washing machines of this brand contact the service centers of the country with approximately the same problems:

the drum is not spinning or is spinning too slowly;
the hatch either does not close at all, or is not blocked;
washing takes place in cold water, with any washing program, the water is not heated;
the Asko washing machine refuses to drain the waste water and freezes.

In general, the situation with Asko's washing machines is quite surprising. It is known for certain that in Finland almost ¼ of all families use these automatic washing machines and are very satisfied. If we take the statistics of their service centers, then it is quite possible to put Asko washing machines on a par with Miele or AEG made in Germany. In Russia and the CIS countries, the situation is exactly the opposite, because our Asko washing machines break down more often than others.

For example, in Zelenodolsk there are only 7 Asko washing machines, if, of course, you believe the data of their service centers. And all these machines have been repaired several times with the same breakdowns: hatch, heating element, engine, pump, pipes. The quality of the parts is disgusting, and the assembly is not similar to the European one. In general, we asked ourselves the question of the true origin of Asko's washing machines, but we did not receive adequate information, so we return to our main question - typical breakdowns of washing machines of this brand.

For your information! Got a Finnish or Swedish Asko washing machine? Consider that you are in luck, even the second-hand Asko technique, which has worked in Europe for 10 or more years, is still working for the subsequent owners for another 15-20 years.

Most often, repair of Asko washing machines is required in cases where the engine rotates the drum with laundry poorly or refuses to rotate it at all. It would be a little easier to understand the problem and fix the car with your own hands if the self-diagnosis system always worked. And so it turns out, the drum does not spin and no errors pop up.

What is the reason? The most common cause of this behavior in a washing machine is the drive belt. It does not seem to jump off, but at the same time, sliding on the engine pulley, it cannot rotate the drum pulley normally. As a result, it turns out that the drum under load either stands at all or rotates extremely slowly at 100-150 rpm. At this speed, it will not be possible to squeeze out, wash and rinse out.

If you go deep into the problem, then the point here is not even the belt itself, since it, apart from scuffs, can be whole. It's about the engine pulley. How can I change it?

Perhaps a low-quality pulley was installed at the factory, or perhaps it gets damaged during operation, but the fact remains - the pulley spoils the drive belt and needs to be replaced!

Be careful! If the washing machine gives an error with the E01 code, the problem lies either in the engine itself or in the control board. In this case, it is better to consult a specialist.

Quite often, Asko's washing machines have to be repaired with their own hands because of the drum hatch, which does not want to be locked. It all starts with the fact that the hatch mechanism sometimes stops working, and the car freezes when starting. Usually, the hostesses quickly find a solution to the problem, pushing the hatch with their knee and restarting Asko's car. After that, she washes normally for a while. Then a year or two passes, or maybe less, the hatch mechanism stops working at all, and the machine, accordingly, stops washing.

In such a situation, "pushing with the knee" no longer helps; you have to disassemble the hatch closing mechanism and change the locking device. Read about what to do if the door of the washing machine does not close and how to fix it in the publication of the same name.

Slightly less often, Asko washing machines have a problem with water heating. Moreover, in most cases, the problem can be localized quite quickly, since when it occurs, the self-diagnosis system is triggered and an error with the E05 code appears on the display, less often the E06 error flies. What are the reasons for these errors?

The thermal sensor does not work.
There is no contact between the control module and the temperature sensor.
The triac of the board, which is responsible for controlling the heating element, is out of order.
Teng broke.

Which of these is broken in your Asko washing machine remains to be determined. Let's start with the diagnostics of the heating element and the temperature sensor. But before diagnosing these elements, you need to get to them.

Important! Most automatic washing machines have a heating element with a temperature sensor either in the back or in the front of the tank. In Asko washing machines, the heating element is "stuck in the side" of the washing tank.

With such an unusual placement of the heating element, how to get to it? Nothing complicated, we remove the back wall of the washing machine, remove the drive belt so that it does not get in the way, and now, the ten is already in front of our eyes, or rather its contacts sticking out from the side of the tank. What are we doing?

We take a multimeter and set the switch to the minimum value.
We disconnect the wires from the contacts of the heating element and the temperature sensor.
We connect the probes of the multimeter to the contacts of the heating element. If the device displays a resistance in the region of 28 ohms (with a heater power of 2 kW), it means that the heating element is working properly. If it shows zero or one, then it is defective.
Now let's check the resistance of the temperature sensor. Disconnect the drain pipe from the tank and drain all the remaining water from it into a suitable container.

Note! When you drain the water from the tank, do not flood the contacts, wiring and the engine, otherwise you will have to dry it all with a hairdryer.

We take out the thermal sensor from the connector and put it aside.
We collect warm water (30 0) in a mug and lower the temperature sensor there.
After a couple of minutes, we take it out, set the multimeter to the minimum resistance value and lean the probes against the sensor contacts. If the device reads 40-60 ohms, then everything is in order, 0-1, then it is not in order.

Then you can check with your own hands the wires going from the heating element and the temperature sensor to the control module by ringing them one by one. If the wires are intact, only the control module remains. We do not advise you to climb to the control board on your own, because if it is damaged, repairs will be very, very expensive - contact experienced craftsmen.

If Asko's automatic washing machine stops draining water and freezes, but at the same time it is dry under the washing machine, it means that one of the following breakdowns has occurred:

clogged pipes or drain hose;
the pump has broken;
the water level sensor does not work;
an open circuit has occurred between the control board and the pump or between the control board and the level sensor.

Before looking for the causes of the problem in electrical and electronics, we will arrange a general cleaning for Asko's washing machine. Cleaning the washing machine from dirt will require some effort, but after that, the normal drainage of water can resume, and the smell of "home assistant" will be very pleasant.

If cleaning does not help to solve the problem, you will have to arm yourself with a multimeter and check the pump, water level sensor, electrician for breakdowns one by one. First, we ring the pump, its working resistance value is 144 ohms, then you need to ring the water level sensor, its resistance should be about 60 ohms. Well, at the end, we will ring the wires going to the control module for a break, if there is no break, then the matter is in the microcircuit and you need to contact a specialist.

For your information! The pump and water level sensor can be reached through the back of the washing machine.

In conclusion, I would like to once again draw attention to the following point. Most of the breakdowns of washing machines can be eliminated by hand if you carefully read the service instructions and the information that we publish in our articles. But if the problem is in the electronics, then it is better not to make repairs on your own, even the specialist who re-solders the board does not give guarantees that it will work. Don't finish your washing machine, trust the professionals!

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Household appliances of the ASKO brand have been known in our country since the 60s – 70s, when reliable and high-quality refrigerators and electric stoves Roseniew and UPO, produced at the factories of the Finnish concern ASKO, were imported to the USSR in limited quantities. Many of these products still serve well.ASKO is a model of Finnish entrepreneurship with roots in the distant past. The founder of the company was the carpenter Asko August Avonius, who opened a small business in Lahti in 1918. Today ASKO Appliances Ltd is a concern that produces household appliances that meet the world's most stringent Scandinavian standards. ASKO exports its products to dozens of countries around the world, the main sales markets are the USA, Australia, and European countries. All ASKO products are manufactured only in Finland and Sweden and are designed for at least 15 years of daily use.Each component of the product undergoes rigorous testing to ensure this lifespan. Each device is assembled by hand, with one worker who is fully responsible for the quality of the product. Another reason for the longevity of ASKO technology is the use of the best components from leading manufacturers. For example, in ASKO washing machines, bearings of the famous Swedish company SKF are used, which make it possible to increase the operating time at maximum drum rotation (1000 - 1600 rpm) to 3-4 minutes (usually this time exceeds 40-50 seconds). The water inlet hose of ASKO washing machines is made of PEX material that can withstand a pressure of 10 atmospheres and a temperature of +90 ° C for 50 years.ASKO washing machines have won numerous awards. They were named Best Buy of the Year in the United States from 1994 to 1999. In Sweden, the Consumer Council rated them as the best washing machine of all time. In 1997, ASKO washing machines received the Edison Prize and the title of “Greenest Washing Machine”.Table 1 shows the technical characteristics of some models of ASKO washing machines.The design of ASKO washing machines is always distinguished by innovative technical solutions. So, to reduce vibration, the tank of front-loading washing machines is attached to a massive platform, which is supported by four shock absorbers attached to the base of the machine. The design made it possible to eliminate the rubber sealing collar - the most common cause of leaks during machine operation.The latest generation ASKO washing machines use the Easy Control electronic control system based on Fuzzy Logic principles. The set of programs includes four preset programs for various types of fabric, while the user has the ability to program an individual mode (about 2500 options). The control panel of the new generation washing machines has a liquid crystal display, which displays information about the operating mode of the machine.Sensors of the Fuzzy Logic system register the parameters of the water entering the tank and the state of the detergent solution, according to these data, the washing mode is automatically corrected. Thus, the SLC sensor determines the flow rate of the incoming water, ensuring its economical consumption. The Sensirinse detergent solution control system detects the presence of detergent residues in the water and, if present, assigns an additional rinse cycle.When you select the Super-Rinse mode, the washing machine performs up to seven rinses instead of the standard three, which allows you to achieve a high degree of removal of detergent residues (the so-called anti-allergenic rinse).Let's get acquainted with the device of ASKO washing machines with top loading of linen, having considered the models W509, W510 and W530, which are close in design, which are included in the series of machines 500. In fig. 1 shows the control panels of these three machines.Rice. 1 Control panels for ASKO top-loading washing machines 500 series:
a) - model W509; b) - model W510; c) - model W530As you can see from this figure, in the W509 washing machine (maximum drum rotation speed during spinning 900 rpm) there are buttons to decrease the rotation speed to 600 rpm, buttons “Cancel spin” and “Additional rinse” (Fig. 1, a) ... Model W510 (1100 rpm) additionally has a knob for selecting the drum rotation speed and a button for delaying the start of operation for 5 hours (Fig. 1, b). Finally, the W530 model (1300 rpm) has a button for lowering the rotation speed to 600 rpm and a start-up delay timer knob (Fig. 3.14.1, c). This model is also equipped with a drum-up system for parking the drum after washing with the loading door up.All these models of washing machines have a button "E 2", when pressed, the duration of the wash increases by approximately 20 minutes. At low-temperature washing modes, energy savings due to this is 30-40%.The device of washing machines is shown in Fig. 2 - 5, and lists of the corresponding components are given in table. 2 - 5. The description of the device of the machines is given according to the constructive variant С01А, produced before 2000.Rice. 2 Structural elements of ASKO top-loading washing machines 500 series (body and control panel)Cheap or expensive, old or new - any technique is susceptible to breakdowns. Repair of Asko washing machines can be done at home if you know how. You need to start by determining the location of the problem. The error codes shown on the display will help you with this. Below you will find recommendations on how to troubleshoot common problems with Asco clippers.The control board of the washing machine in case of a breakdown starts a self-diagnosis mode. The display shows an error code that indicates the cause of the malfunction of the equipment. The decoding of symbols can be found in the instruction manual, and if it is lost, our table will help.

Engine and its wiring;

Motor control selector on board.

Is there water in the mains supply;

Unscrew the inlet valve;

Return the inlet hose to its normal location. It should not be bent or twisted;

Clean the inlet valve. Replace if faulty;

Examine the pressure switch. Remove blockage from hose. If the sensor breaks down, install the correct part.

Press the door tightly;

Inspect the latch and handle for serviceability;

Check the locking device (UBL).

The breakdown is not always determined by the code. But you can run the test mode yourself to check the operation of the nodes.For the W402-W592 models, this is done as follows:

Turn the programmer to 1;

Press the P2 key twice;

Now three times P3;

Press the START / PAUSE button;

Switch the selector to positions 2, 3 and 4. The check of the intake valves begins;

After that, motor diagnostics and water heating will begin;

Set the selector to 5. The drain will start, the pump will start working;

Value 6 - drum accelerates to maximum speed;

Set to 0 to stop test mode.

Within 15 seconds, press the P1 key five times;

Now switch the values to check individual nodes:

P2 - water intake for pre-wash;Р3 - bay for the main cycle;Р4 - intake of hot liquid;Menu - liquid enters the dispenser compartment;

To move to the next level, hold "Enter" or Enter (again to return).

P3 - the motor is running for a normal program;

Set the selector to the 40 degree position ("Delicate wash");

Hold C2 while pressing the G key;

After the indicators flash, an automatic diagnosis will occur. If no damage is found, the display will show “1.25”.

One of the most popular Asko WM models. Let's consider three control options.

Press S1 to disconnect from power;

Hold S6 for 5 seconds;

Turn programmer J1 to the device under test;

Run test - S13.

Disconnect the power supply;

Hold> and the power key at the same time;

Press> three times within 5 seconds;

Use the rotary knob to set the test value.

Click "Off";

Hold down the Power key and Start / Stop;

Press Start / Stop 5 times;

Turn the selector.

Locate the problem? Move on to fix them.This manufacturer produces front-loading and vertical-loading machines. Common typical faults:

The drum rotates slowly or stands still;

The hatch door is not blocked;

No water heating;

Waste fluid is not drained.

Troubleshooting instructions and recommendations will help you cope yourself without the help of a specialist.Drum problemsPoor rotation of the drum or its absence affects the quality of washing and spinning. The reason may be a sleeping drive belt or deformation of the engine pulley.

Disconnect the machine from the network and communications;

Unscrew the top cover bolts, slide it back and remove it from the body;

Unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the rear panel, set it aside;

If the belt has slipped off the wheel, put it back in place;

Sometimes the belt may be fine, but the drum does not rotate well. It's about the motor pulley. How to replace it:

Remove the belt;

Unfasten the engine wiring, remove the mounting bolts;

Take out the engine. Install a puller on the pulley and warm it up with a soldering iron. After that, it can be easily removed.

The new part also needs to be heated before installation. After the pulley has cooled, replace the engine by performing the above steps in reverse order.Door lock malfunctionDid you start a program but the wash does not start? Press down on the door more - you should hear a click. If the lock does not work, inspect the latch plate. During operation, it is erased, then replacement is required.Examine the door hinges. If they sagged, then the latch will not fall into the hole in the lock. Tighten the hinges with a screwdriver. Check UBL last. This is an electronic lock. After it is triggered, water intake begins.

Bend the hatch seal and remove the clamp by prying it with a screwdriver;

Unscrew the two bolts on the body;

Slide your hand between the panel and the cuff. Get the UBL;

If burnt parts are visible, install a new part;

To replace the handle, you need to disassemble the door:

Remove the door from its hinges. Lay on the table;

Remove the screws in a circle;

Unfasten the latches with a flat knife;

Remove one half and glass;

Pull out the pin that holds the component handles together;

Replace all parts, then reinsert the pin;

Installation of heating elementsWhen washing in cold water, make sure the heater is working properly. It is located behind the rear wall of the Asko SM. Read more about the process in the article "How to connect a heating element in a washing machine."Drainage system problemsDoes the water drain poorly from the tank or does not drain at all? The drain path needs cleaning. Depending on the model of the car, it is more convenient to inspect the pump through the bottom or through the front wall. Remove liquid: