Do-it-yourself Bosch Classic 6 washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Bosch Classic 6 washing machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Washing machines from the German company Bosch have always been of high quality. Bosch products are made only of high quality materials, are ergonomic and easy to use. However, sometimes situations arise when equipment fails for one reason or another. In such cases, you can perform a simple repair of the Bosch washing machine with your own hands, and in case of a serious malfunction, contact a service center.

Before repairing a Bosch washing machine, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics and establish the cause of the malfunction. For this purpose, test diagnostics are provided, performed in a specific sequence. When diagnosing a malfunction in a Bosch washing machine, the door must be closed. After that, all programs are set to the off position, and there is a pause for a few seconds.

Next, the spin mode is selected, after which the start indicator will start blinking. The spin speed change button is then pressed while the program selector is set to the drain position.

As a result, the display will display the following codes:

F16 - corresponds to a loosely closed door.
F17 and F18 - indicate problems when collecting and draining water.
F19 - means a malfunction of the heater - heating element.
F20 - possible malfunctions of the relay and the NTC temperature sensor.
F21 - the motor drive is faulty.
F23 - water leak.
F40 - input voltage is abnormal.
F63 - malfunctions in the control module.

Video (click to play).

Sometimes test diagnostics cannot be started, which most likely means not problems with components and parts, but malfunctions of the control board.

To check and confirm the malfunction of a particular code, the last displayed error must be erased from the memory of the washing machine. For this purpose, the program selector is set to a specific position.

Drive motor check - 3,
Pump check - 4,
Heating element - 5,
Valve for filling hot or cold water - 6 and 7,
Water inlet valve for the main wash - 8,
Pre-wash water inlet valve - 9,
FCW automatic testing - 12,
Rapid Automated Testing - 14.
The motor diagnostics in different Bosch washing machine models can be started in positions 3 or 4.

At the end of the diagnosis, when the malfunction is accurately established, you can purchase parts and spare parts, and then start repairing the washing machine.

The lack of water heating manifests itself primarily in a noticeable deterioration in the quality of washing. In some cases, washing may stop altogether. It is not difficult to make sure of this, it is enough to put your hand on the glass of the loading door. In normal mode, heated glass is felt, and when the temperature is violated, it is not felt at all. For all models of washing machines, you can check the drain hose and find out if the water heats up in the washing machine.

Most often, the cause of the malfunction is the failure of the heating element - the heating element. In this case, its replacement is required. The main enemy of all heating elements is considered to be low-quality water, which contains impurities and is considered hard. Often the sensor responsible for maintaining the temperature regime breaks down, and then the wash program is automatically blocked.

You can carry out the replacement work yourself.However, one should take into account the need to completely open the case of the washing machine, which not everyone can do. Therefore, if you are not completely confident in your capabilities, it is recommended to call the service center specialists.

Sometimes it can happen that the drum does not spin at all, although the water pump continues to work normally. The reason may be a drive belt torn or flying off the pulley, worn out lamellas and brushes of the electric motor, as well as the failure of the motor itself and the tacho sensor. In addition, foreign objects often get into the drum, jamming and stopping rotation.

The main cause is considered to be engine malfunctions. Before checking it, the drive belt is removed from the pulley and the wires are disconnected. On the removed engine, the rotation of the shaft is checked, the brushes are pulled out and checked. If worn, they must be replaced. If the brushes are normal, check the tachometer installed on the motor housing. This procedure is performed using a multimeter. After that, the condition of the lamellas or collector plates is checked, for which the engine housing is disassembled. At the same time, the winding itself is checked.

After checking the engine has shown the norm, you should pay attention to the drive belt. Problems can be detected if the drum is turned too lightly. In this case, the belt is either torn or severely stretched. In both cases, replacement is required, for which the back of the case is removed. The belt itself is easy to remove and replace with a new one. First, it is put on the engine pulley, and then on the drum pulley, which must be turned by hand.

The next reason is often foreign objects falling into the gap between the drum and the tank. To remove, you can use the hole for installing the heating element. For this purpose, the heating element must be unscrewed and pulled out of the hole. Then you need to highlight with a flashlight and look inside. If you find a foreign object, you need to get it out. After removal, all parts are reassembled in reverse order. If this method did not help and the item could not be removed, the Bosch washing machine will have to be disassembled completely in order to remove the tank and remove the drum from it.

Before doing repairs, you should check the presence of water in the water supply system. You also need to check the condition of the water supply valve so that it is in the open position. The water supply hose could be kinked or kinked inadvertently.

With a normal water supply, you need to look for another cause of the malfunction. The first step is to check the intake valve for blockages. A safety filter upstream of the inlet valve may be clogged with debris. In many cases, it is enough to just clean it, and everything will return to normal, otherwise you will have to look for more serious malfunctions.

One of them is the failure of the electronic water supply valve. In this case, the collection of water stops until the defective element is replaced. Water may not enter the machine due to a malfunction in the control module. As a result, the command to collect water is not received until the control module is reflash or replaced.

The next reason may be the failure of the pressure switch - a water level sensor that measures and controls the amount of liquid required for washing. If a breakdown occurs, the washing machine cannot quantify and washing will not start until the sensor is replaced. Sometimes water does not flow due to the failure of the hatch locking device. A defective device requires a complete replacement.

With this malfunction, the water drainage mode is noticeably violated. Draining is slow or stops altogether. Water is not drained out during all wash phases. After removing water from the tank, the spin mode can be blocked.The most common causes are a clogged pump filter and a branch pipe connecting the tank and the pump, as well as foreign objects that have got inside and jammed the pump impeller. The drain hose, siphon and sewer pipe may be clogged.

The Bosch washing machine must be disconnected from the power supply before checking and repairing. First, the filter located below the loading hatch is unscrewed. When clogged, it is cleaned and installed in its place. After that, you need to check and clean the drain pipe. To get to it, you need to disconnect the drain unit from the body. The corrugation itself is carefully felt and, if debris is present, it is cleaned. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

If the impeller located immediately behind the filter is jammed, inspect it and remove any foreign objects that interfere with operation. The pump is checked last. When the impeller is clear of debris, but still does not rotate, this means that the pump is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced.

Sometimes, after washing, the laundry is wet or not wrung out enough. This indicates a malfunction in the spin system. The main reason, as always, is the blockage of the drain pipes, drain hose, pump filter, siphon and sewage system. This problem is solved by the usual cleaning and flushing of the clogged parts.

More serious malfunctions are considered breaks in the heating element, a malfunction of the water level switch, or a tacho sensor that regulates the drum speed. In all cases, replacement of defective parts is required. Mechanical reasons include the uneven distribution of the laundry in the machine. As a result, there is no smooth set of revolutions by the drum and the electronic sensor automatically cancels spinning.

Electrical problems may occur. They consist in the wear of the brushes or the malfunction of the motor itself. The most serious breakdown is considered to be a malfunction of the control module, which is either repaired or completely changed.

Sometimes your Bosch washing machine simply won't start when you press the power button. In this case, several indicators start blinking on the panel at once or they do not turn on at all.

The reasons for this condition may be as follows:

Loosely closed hatch.
Lack of power supply in the network, outlet malfunction, power surges and surges.
Defective cord or plug. It is recommended to carefully examine them for damage, burning and other defects. If faults are found, the damaged cord or plug must be replaced.
Lack of water supply to the washing machine.

If all of the above malfunctions are absent, then the cause of the malfunction is more complex, requiring more qualified diagnostics. It can be connected to a control panel or an internal electrical circuit. Most often, the programmer or electronic module does not work, as well as the noise filter and the sunroof lock device. If the reasons could not be determined on your own, you should call a qualified specialist.

Sometimes during operation, the Bosch machine begins to emit extraneous sounds. The presence of a squeak indicates friction between parts. Therefore, to determine the malfunction, it is likely that the washing machine will need to be disassembled in order to perform an inspection and diagnosis.

Worn springs used to suspend the tank are one of the main reasons. Both springs are replaced at once, since replacing only one of them will lead to uneven loading.

Another reason is related to the wear of the shock absorbers that absorb vibration. Worn parts become stretched and emit a specific squeak during machine operation. The drive belt can also be worn and become stretched and weak. This causes it to slip and squeak.Sometimes the drum is unbalanced due to a loose shaft attachment. Worn parts must be replaced, and all loosened units are tightened to normal with a tool.

In this article we will tell you how to independently repair Bosch washing machines (Bosch). Find out how to fix light and moderate breakdowns without resorting to the services of a master.

Bosch washing machines attract attention and deserve the respect of customers due to their high quality and an abundance of innovative technologies. The German assembly fully justifies the price of such washing machines - high-quality materials are used in the manufacture, and the developers prefer ergonomic forms. But even among the highest quality equipment, breakdowns are not excluded.

Bosch washing machine diagnostics is a built-in function in all modern washing machines. Thanks to her, you can determine the essence of the breakdown without calling the workshop. If you did not find in the instructions a step-by-step description of how to diagnose yourself, we will describe in detail how to do this:

Close the loading door.
Set the program selector dial to OFF.
Wait a couple of seconds.
Set the selector to the "SPIN" mode.
If you did everything correctly, the "START" light will blink.
Press the "SPIN ROTATION" button and do not remove your finger until the "START" indicator flashes again.
Turn the wheel again, this time stopping it in the "DRAIN" program.

Attention! Rotate the selector to the right only.

After releasing the SPIN ROTATION button, select the object to be tested by turning the wheel. Or determine the breakdown by the error code displayed on the scoreboard.

Important! If the diagnostics do not start, then the problem is in the control board (electronic controller), and in this case you cannot do without calling the wizard.

If you decide to manually check individual parts, turn the selector wheel to select the desired item. Proceed in this way:

Checking the engine: position 3.
4 - for testing the pump.
5 - check the heating element.
6 - hot water intake valve.
7 - cold water intake valve.
8 - water intake valve for the main wash.
9 - valve for intake of preliminary wash water.
10 - sound signals.
11 - FCW autotest.
14-15 - "fast" autotest.

Image - DIY bosch classic 6 washing machine repair

Then press "START" again (in addition to this indicator, "DRAIN" and "SPIN" are also on) to start the program test.

To exit the program test mode, press START and turn the wheel.

To exit Diagnostic Mode, turn the wheel to the OFF or OFF position.

Of the entire huge list of malfunctions of the Bosch washing machine, the most typical for this brand are the following failures:

Water is not heated during washing.
No drain.
The tank is not spinning.
The drum is noisy.
No water intake.
The engine does not work.

Based on the specified list, we come to the conclusion that the most vulnerable point of this brand of washing machines is the heating element. If the thermoelectric heater burns out, but the controller is intact, then repairing a Bosch washing machine does not take much work and effort. Otherwise, the controller needs to be replaced, and it is best to entrust this work to a specialist.

Users learn about certain malfunctions by fault codes (or flashing lights). In CM Bosch, the following error codes usually appear: F01, F16, F29, F31, F34, F36, F40, F61, F63, as well as E02 and E67 and others.

The device of the Bosch washing machine determines both the nature of the breakdowns and the reasons for their occurrence. Let's take a look at what usually causes the crashes.

After washing, there is waste water in the tub. This happens for the following reasons:

Failure of the drain pump (pump).
Clogged filter or pump.
Burned out or oxidized pump contacts.
The pressure switch has broken.

If the drum is dead, it may be due to the following reasons:

The drive belt is damaged.
Electronics malfunction.
Less commonly, the engine crashes.

Broken bearings (you will need to replace the bearing in the Bosch washing machine).
Debris and foreign objects in the tank.
Loose or broken shock absorbers.
Torn off counterweight.

Water does not flow into the drum because:

There is no water in the water supply system, low pressure.
Pump or Aqua-Stop system clogged.
Kink in the drain hose.

Engine breakdown coincides with the following "symptoms":

Having determined what caused the malfunction, and assessing its complexity, you can start self-repairing Bosch washing machines.

If you have not identified a breakdown, and do not know how to repair the washing machine, contact a specialist.

The listed reasons for breakdowns are most typical for the Bosch Classic 5, Bosch Mahh 5, Bosch Max 4, Bosch Maxx 6 models, but other models can fail for the same reasons.

Below we will look at the faults and how to fix them, focusing on the most common faults and the best ways to solve them.

Having determined that the drain pump (pump), drain filter or water level sensor (pressure switch) needs repair, we carry out the repair ourselves - this does not require special knowledge and effort.

To eliminate filter clogging, we act according to the following scheme:

Let's find a drain filter: it is located at the bottom of the washer body, under the front panel (can be reached from below by putting the machine on its side) or behind the door of a small technical hatch.
You need to spread a rag or substitute a container - the remaining waste water will pour out of the hole.
Turning the filter cover to the left, remove it.
We clean the filter and rinse it under the tap.
We put in place. Remember that you MUST NOT run the CM without a filter.

To clean or replace the drain pump (pump), you need to properly remove the front panel; for this you may need instructions for your Bosch washing machine. In principle, nothing complicated, but you need to make an effort.

Remove the detergent drawer.
Unscrew the bolt in the lower right corner.
Remove the bottom panel by unscrewing the bolt near the filter and the bolts at the bottom of the panel.
Remove the rubber cuff of the hatch (for this you need to remove the retaining ring by bending the small spring with a slotted (minus) screwdriver).
Remove the panel.

To get to the pump itself, remove the UBL wires. Remove and disassemble the pump - it may contain foreign objects and debris. The impeller in a serviceable pump turns easily in all directions.

Check the resistance of the pump winding. If it is 200 ohms - order. If the values are different, there is a breakdown, and you need to change the pump.

If water is not collected, you need:

Check if the machine is connected to the water supply (if not, open the valve).
Inspect the drain hose (it may be kinked or kinked).
Check the "AQUA-STOP" filter. If there are problems with it, you need to replace it with a new one.

If the water level sensor breaks down, we change it according to the following scenario:

We find the sensor by removing the top cover of the car - you will see it in the right corner when you look at the car from the front. To remove the cover, twist 2 bolts.
Pressing the latch, remove the sensor. We remove the wires and disconnect the branch pipe by opening the clamp.
We install the new unit in place of the old one, proceeding in the same way, but in the reverse order.

If the heating element has worked out its resource or is overgrown with scale, overheated and burned out, you need to change it. This work can be done on your own. But first you need a check.

If you are not sure whether the heating element is working or broken, you can check it yourself, armed with a tester. The check is carried out as follows:

Without removing the heating element, disconnect the wiring.
Set the tester to measure resistance (in ohms).
Set the adjuster wheel to “200”.
Attach the test leads to the electrical heater terminals.
Normal resistance usually ranges from 20 to 40 ohms.
If the tester display is "1", then there was a break, and the heating element needs to be changed.
If the value is about "0", there is a short circuit in the heating element, the heater needs to be changed.

Finding the heating element is simple: remove the back panel of the CMA and below under the drum you will see the heating element, or rather its shank, with a screw driven in the center. We make a replacement:

Unscrew the bolt.
Remove all wires carefully.
Remove the heater by slowly swinging it from side to side and pulling it towards you.
Take a working heating element and install it.

To carry out this complex operation, an almost complete disassembly of the CM is required. If you decide to do this, do not completely remove all the wires from the electronic module - it is not a fact that you will be able to connect everything in place. After dismantling the module, lay it on the frame or hang it on a special hook.

To make a technological hook with your own hands, take a 30-centimeter piece of non-heated steel wire with a diameter of 3 mm or more. On the wire, you need to string a cambric (heat shrinkage), which should be longer than the wire - at least 1 cm on each side. Make bends, stepping back 6-7 cm from each end of the wire - you will get a kind of hook. Hang the dashboard on this hook.

We remove the tank with the drum by unscrewing the springs.
When disassembling the tank into 2 parts, the specially provided latches must be broken.
Taking a hammer and a wooden backing, carefully knock out the bearing axle shafts with light blows.