Do-it-yourself repair of a Daewoo top-loading washing machine

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Daewoo top-loading washing machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

People buy washing machines with top loading much less often than with front loading - this is a fact.

The tightness of the parts of the machine makes it difficult to disassemble
Increased vibration during spinning
On some machines it is not possible to level the rear feet
Corrosion of the top cover from moisture
Spontaneous opening of the drum flaps in case of imbalance

Narrow and deep, and fits perfectly into confined spaces in the bathtub, closets or kitchen
No need to bend over to load the laundry
Ability to interrupt the program and add laundry
Child safety. Control panel location.

Features and nuances for self-repair of vertical units:

The device contains the same elements (pressure switch, water intake valve, drum, tank, control board, pump, and so on).
The axis of the drum is structurally made on two bearings; a self-positioning sensor is sometimes located on the tank (fixing the drum with the flaps up).

We will show the dismantling of units using the example of Electrolux:

1.From the sides, using a screwdriver, release the control panel
2.Pull the plastic panel up and slide towards you
3. We tilt at a small angle towards ourselves to dismantle the wires from the board connectors
4. Take out the panel

To remove the electronic control module, disconnect the remaining wires and unscrew the screws shown in the figure.
For quick and correct assembly, take pictures of the connection points of the wire loops.

To remove the water inlet valve, disconnect the rubber hoses from the clamps and dismantle them.
Detach the wires and from the outside press on the holes to push out the valve.

To remove the side panels, unscrew a few screws, do not forget to save the washers for grounding the case.
Bend the wall from below with your hand and slide it down.

After removing the two side panels, access to the screws for dismantling the front panel appeared.

To remove the NTC sensors and self-positioning the DSP drum, it is enough to remove the right wall and dismantle them.

Frequent malfunction - there is no way to change the program .:

Example - Hotpoint Ariston ARTL 1047.

Many "craftsmen" sin that the control module is to blame for everything. But no!

It is enough to unscrew the two screws from the back and remove the control panel.

This very cracked handle is the culprit. Use the metal ring (the plug from the antenna for example).

By squeezing the plastic handle, the ring will prevent programs from skipping.

Blown up top of the Indesite vertical, Ariston:

Video (click to play).

001 - control knob 002 - white on-off / reset buttons 003 - white control panel 004 - bitron switch 005 - function keys 007 - display
008 - cover handle 010 - dispenser unlocking lever 011 - dispenser hook spring 012 - disengagement button dispenser 016 - cover support
018 - partition with shock absorber 021 - door interlock device 022 - white dispenser 023 - siphon cover 026 - control panel wiring 027 - 8-pos. potentiometer

There is an opinion that two drum supports instead of one are good.

This is not the case, and in the case of "vertical" it is just a forced engineering decision. The service life of the drum bearings does not increase for a minute.

If the screws are hard to loosen, heat them up with a blowtorch.

Use a special grease for oil seals - Litol-24, TsIATIM-221, SHRUS-4M, etc.

On "Kandy", in order to change bearings, you need to disassemble the whole machine to the screw! And what is the wild tightness in the depths of the "vertical". Sometimes you have to do everything literally by touch.

The history of the "Great Universe", that is how the Korean name of the company Daewoo is translated into Russian, began in 1967, when Kim U-Jun and four of his comrades founded an enterprise for the export and import of light industry products. A year later, they created a factory for the production of clothes, and in the early 70s. - enterprises of the construction industry. In 1976, Daewoo, which by that time had already entered the international market, adopted a new business principle - the purchase of promising enterprises. The first of these was an oil refinery in Belgium, then heavy industry plants.

By the beginning of the 80s. Daewoo began to produce cars, ships, consumer electronics and telecommunications, as well as household appliances. Unfortunately, the financial difficulties experienced by the company in recent years have led to a decrease in the level of technical support for products sold on the Russian market.

The original Daewoo development is a washing machine that uses the principle of washing with air bubbles. Washing machines of this type do not have a heating element. This reduces energy consumption and allows you to effectively wash delicate fabrics that cannot be boiled (wool, silk, angora, cashmere).

Table 1 shows the manufacturer's data on the condition of the fabric (the object of washing is a silk jacket) during normal dry cleaning and when washing in an air-bubble machine.

Other differences between Daewoo air bubble machines and machines with front and top loading of the "European" type are lower weight (30.47 kg), low noise level (55 dB during spinning, 46 dB during washing and 43 dB during washing on program "Suit"), short (51 minutes) wash time.

Typical appearance of Daewoo washing machines is shown in fig. one.

Rice. one. Type of air bubble washing machine Daewoo:

A drum is located in the vertical tank of the machine, at the bottom of which there is a so-called pulsator, which serves to create a complex swirling stream of water.

The machines can be connected both to the cold water tap and to the hot water tap.

A special adapter is used to connect the water inlet hose (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Connecting the water inlet hose of the washing machine Daewoo

When connecting the adapter, first separate it from the hose (Fig. 2 a), then use a screwdriver to unscrew the fastening screws in the upper part A of the apron, while preventing them from falling out of the sockets (Fig. 2 b), put the adapter on the tap, tighten the fastening screws and turn the lower part B of the adapter relative to the upper part A (Fig. 2 c), after which the water inlet hose is connected (Fig. 2 d).

The water is drained out through the connection at the bottom of the machine. A feature of Daewoo washing machines is that almost all models are available in two versions - with and without a drain pump. In the latter case, there is a drain valve in the lower part of the machine, when opened, a natural (without additional injection) drainage of water occurs (it is assumed that there is a hole in the floor for its drain).

Table 2 and 3 show the designation system of Daewoo washing machines and their decoding.

Let's consider the device of Daewoo washing machines using the example of Z bubble series products (models 5510, 5511, 5520, 5521, 6010, 6011, 6020 and 6021). The technical characteristics of these washing machines are given in table. 4.

In fig. 3 shows a view of the control panel of this series washing machines.

Rice. 3 External view of the control panel of the Daewoo Z bubble washing machines

The purpose of each of the buttons on the control panel is shown in table. 5.

Example: if it is 8 am and the wash is to be finished by 5 pm, the button must be pressed 9 times so that the display shows “9”.

This function does not work for Wool and Suit modes.

The setting of the program of the machine is as follows.

By pressing button 1, turn on the power to the machine.
Pressing button 5 toggles (indicated by the corresponding indicator light on the control panel) between the Add, Wash, Rinse and Spin positions. Simultaneous illumination of the "Add" indicator and one of the other three functional indicators (washing, rinsing or spinning) means the addition of 1.2 minutes to the time of this function.
Pressing button 2 sets the water level (high, medium or low).
Pressing button 7 starts the machine.

To eliminate the imbalance in the drum loading, the pulsator rotates alternately with short (0.4 sec) jerks clockwise and counterclockwise, with a total duration of about 40 sec. In fig. 4 shows a sequence diagram of the load balancing process.

Rice. 4 Cyclogram of the load balancing process

The pulsator (Fig. 5) is a disk with blades located in the bottom of the drum, the rotation of which leads to a complex movement in the volume of the drum
water.

Rice. 5. Daewoo washing machine pulsator

The pulsator is designed in an asymmetric manner, with displacement of the blades relative to the axis of rotation. This is done to impart asymmetry to the vortex motion of water and to minimize the volume of stagnant flow zones.

Additive dispenser is located on the upper rim of the drum and is intended for introducing special additives into the tank cavity, for example, fabric softener. The movement of the softener from the compartment to the compartment of the dispenser occurs under the influence of two factors: the centrifugal force arising from the rotation of the drum (the rotation speed must be at least 100 rpm), and the force of gravity, under the action of which the softener flows through the compartments of the dispenser in the pauses between its rotations.

In fig. 6 shows the phases of the overflow of the additive from compartment A to compartment D, and Fig. 7 - the location of these compartments on the rim of the drum.

Rice. 6. Overflow of additives in the compartments of the additive dispenser

Rice. 7. Location of the additive dispenser compartments

You can check the operation of the dispenser by pouring milk into compartment A: during the final rinsing phase, milk should appear at the outlet of the dispenser.

Naturally, this check should be carried out without loading the laundry into the machine.

The device is triggered when the lid is closed (fig. 8). An imbalance in the drum loading during spinning leads to a deflection of the lever A, opening the blocking circuit and stopping the spinning process; an audible signal sounds.

Rice. eight. Top cover locking device

By opening the lid, the user can redistribute the laundry in the drum. When the lid is closed again, the beep stops.

The filter is installed on the upper rim of the drum.

Rice. 9. Water flow to the fiber filter

Rice. 10. Location of the fiber trap filter on the upper rim of the drum

At the place where the filter is installed, there is a guide plate in the gap between the walls of the drum and the tank, which forms a channel for supplying water to the filter. When the machine is operating, the water circulating in the tank cavity through this channel enters the filter with a flow rate of about 40 l / min.

The water that has passed through the filter is poured into the drum. The filter must be periodically removed from the drum rim and washed with water. The rotational speed of the drain motor shaft is 900 rpm, therefore, to reduce the speed, the torque is transmitted to the washing machine pulley through a transmission mechanism (reducer). As the pulley rotates, a rope is wound around it, which opens the drain valve (fig. 11).

Rice. eleven. Converting the rotational motion of the pulley to translational

Thus, the rotational motion of the pulley is converted into translational motion. The tension of the cable activates the brake lever, with the help of which the mechanical separation of the transmission mechanism from the electric motor occurs.After turning off the drain motor, the cable is released and returned to its original position.

The transmission mechanism (reducer) is designed to transfer torque from the electric motor to the pulsator and drum of the washing machine. The structure of the mechanism is shown in Fig. 12.

Rice. 12. The device of the transmission mechanism (reducer)

The shaft of the gearbox is made coaxial, its inner part is used to drive the pulsator into rotation, and the outer part is used to drive the drum of the washing machine. The key element of the gearbox is the planetary gear assembly (Fig. 13), and its plastic center gear is the most vulnerable component of Daewoo washing machines.

Rice. thirteen. Planetary gear reducer

In fig. 14 shows a diagram of the transmission of torque from the shaft of the electric motor to the pulsator of the washing machine,

Rice. 14. The diagram of the transfer of torque from the shaft of the electric motor to the pulsator of the washing machine

and in fig. 15 shows the values of the speed of rotation of the shaft of the electric motor, pulley, pulsator and drum.

Rice. 15. The values of the rotation speed of the shaft of the electric motor, pulley, pulsator and drum

The bubble generator device is shown in Fig. sixteen.

Rice. sixteen... Havebubble generator device

When the armature moves upward with a magnet attached to it, the bellows expands, flap B opens, flap A closes, and air enters the bellows cavity. When the armature moves down, on the contrary, the bellows is compressed, flap B closes, flap A opens and air is pushed out of the bellows cavity through the outlet nozzle. In turn, the armature is activated due to the periodic movement of the magnet attached to it in an alternating magnetic field (Fig. 17). The frequency of movement of the armature is about 3600 min-1.

Rice. 17. The movement of the armature under the influence of an alternating magnetic field

Portions of air entering with this frequency through a nozzle located in the bottom of the washing machine lead to the formation of many air bubbles, which are immediately thrown into the cavity of the drum by a rotating pulsator (Fig. 18).

Rice. eighteen. The formation of air bubbles in the cavity of the washing machine

Lifting the top cover, remove the drum rim (fig. 19).

Rice. nineteen. Dismantling the drum rim

Unscrew the screw securing the pulsator and remove the pulsator (fig. 20).

Rice. twenty. Dismantling the pulsator

Using a socket wrench, unscrew the nut that secures the drum to the shaft (Fig. 21) and

Rice. 21. Unscrewing the fixing nut

Putting the washing machine face down on the floor, unscrew the four bolts securing the protective bracket of the gearbox, and remove the bracket (Fig. 3.12.23). Remove the drive belt.

Rice. 23. Removing the protective clip

Unscrew the four bolts securing the transmission mechanism and remove the mechanism (Fig. 24).

Rice. 24. Dismantling the transmission mechanism (gearbox)

Installation of the transmission mechanism is carried out in the reverse order.

Putting the washing machine face down on the floor, unscrew the adjusting screw and the two bolts securing the drain motor (fig. 25).

Rice. 25. Dismantling the drain motor

Remove the cable from the guide.

Disconnect the drain motor. Use a screwdriver to turn the drain valve cover as shown in fig. 26 and remove the cover from the valve body.

Rice. 26. Removing the drain valve

For models without a drain pump: by loosening the adjusting screw, set the clearance as shown in fig. 27. Re-tighten the adjusting screw.

Rice. 27. Brake adjustment (for models without drain pump)

For models with a drain pump: Tighten the brake pivot screw (fig. 28).

Rice. 28. Brake adjustment (for models with a drain pump)

Loosen the adjusting bolt and turn it until the end of the bolt touches the brake lever (fig. 29). Tighten the fixing nut and drip paint to fix it.

Rice. 29. Adjusting the brake mechanism (brake lever)

Do not use excessive force when tightening the adjusting screws.

Table 6 shows messages about possible malfunctions that appear on the digital display of the washing machine.

I have been using the Daewoo DWF5590DP washing machine for many years, but it has worked for me for more than 10 years, but how much before? Excellent device, it is a pity that they are no longer produced. Reliable, simple, great washing.
But sometimes it breaks ... Age, after all.
And this is where troubles begin. Details on them can no longer be found anywhere, in the workshops they have already forgotten about them, it is difficult to find service manuals, and the manual is not very extensive.
Nevertheless, the cars are practically indestructible, the people still have a lot of them. I will try to systematize my experience and information on repairing such machines (as well as their analogs: Japanese counterparts for 110 volts and assembled in Ussuriisk EVGO) here and help those who wish.

For starters, a link to the complete DAEWOO service documentation:
diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros/DWF-5990.pdf

These machines have sores that, knowing how, can be successfully treated with your own hands.

First you need to decide on the symptoms.
1. The most common. When washing in wash modes, rinsing the activator rotor turns in one direction, and wedges in the other, while the motor hums and stands. It immediately switches to the other direction of rotation - no problem. Repair immediately, otherwise there is a chance to burn the motor or, more likely, the triacs in the control unit.
How do we treat? First, we disassemble. There is no photo yet, I will upload it as it arrives, since I will revise my typewriter.

Remove the back cover, take out the pallet. We unscrew the control panel - under the gray plugs there are two self-tapping screws, after unscrewing - the panel moves sideways (in my opinion to the right) and remove the two connectors.
Three self-tapping screws on the back hold the panel on which the power button is.
Remove the rubber bands around the water inlets and remove the panel. Leave the button on the wires by unscrewing it from the panel.
Under this panel there will be wiring to the bubble generator, valves, and more. We carefully disconnect the connectors, you can't go wrong during reassembly - all are different in color. Unscrew the bubble generator (this is the box under the power button), remove the two hoses going down (it is better to remove not from the block, but from the tee near the tank)
We disconnect all the wiring going from there down the rear right wall of the machine by connectors (in a plastic bag screwed to the wall) and take out the tube going to the rear left into the tank (water level sensor) from the top panel and remove it.
We see the top of the tank, and the end cap of the tank on four self-tapping screws. We shoot.
Now we put the machine on its side, or, as I do, I tilt it forward, resting the front edge against the wall (otherwise, you can damage the front panel of the case). Now you can work from below.

Around the pulley there is a plate in the form of the letter P, protection. Having detached the harness from it, we unscrew the four bolts. We see the motor and through the belt - the pulley. We unscrew the pulley (we rip off the nut, but do not completely remove it) Putting a screwdriver under the belt, and turning it to the side, turning by the motor pulley, we removed the belt, removed the pulley.

I will continue.
Another common sore - at the start of the spin cycle, the laundry gets bunched up, the tank starts hitting the walls, the machine tries to go into another room)))))
The reason is in the lower spring clutch or spin drive. Directly on the switched on machine, we look from behind from below the actuation of the drive at the start of the spin cycle. The cable should retract the lever with the spring-loaded tooth that fits the gear and retract it. If not, we revise the drive. If it pulls in, remove the pulley (see above), pull together the gear and the spring with two cylinders. More precisely, the lower one will come down. We look at the spring, it is cylindrical, with a tendril below. This tendril fits into a hole in the gear. If it is broken, we are looking for a spring for aliexpress, they are there, we pay attention to the dimensions.

One more nuance. Very similar models - 5590 and 5570 have differences in gearbox design.In the 5590, a spiral spring made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm was installed in the upper part of the gearbox, the repair of which I described above. In 5570, this spring may not be present, in this case its function is performed by a band brake (steel strip with a friction lining) in the middle of the gearbox. When the cable is pulled in by the drive of the release through the lever, the band brake, which in the washing mode is tightened and blocks the rotation of the drum, is released. When the friction pair is worn out, the friction lining - the gear housing will cause the drum to slip during washing and, as a result, bite the activator shaft in one direction. To repair this unit, you need to remove the gearbox (see description above), remove the spring tensioning the band brake and unscrew the M6 screw that secures the second side of the band. Take out and inspect the tape. If there is wear on the friction lining, you can replace it by gluing it with superglue. The easiest replacement option is thick leather, for example a piece of belt))))

Hey! Can you tell me, I have a similar machine DEU, only it seems 806, Ussuriysk. Such a problem, suddenly began to turn off, i.e. completely, the entire display goes out. You press the power button and everything turns on again. But, for example, I choose a spin, set the very minimum and press Start. For a few seconds I hear how the drum stopper is removed, even sometimes you can hear the motor humming (but not spinning!) And everything turns off instantly, i.e. the panel goes out. Later, I checked the motor myself - a worker, I checked the starting condender - it seems to be a worker too, I rang all the wires, everything is ok! I called the master, he looked, again rang something and said that the brains were in order, and the engine was not working. But since the car is rare and there is no s / h, I took 500 re for the diagnosis and hello. I don’t know what to do, it’s a pity to throw it in the trash, I worked for only 7 years. So it goes. Before that, it was the same, but LG. She also worked for more than 10 years, then she died, i.e. the contact on the board began to be lost. I did not bother and bought this Daewoo, and left it for s / h. I took off the motor and the Conder (wires of the same color with the DEU!) And connected it - the same story! I suspect. the problem is in the module (board) ?! What do you think?

Hi, I’ll give you a hint. I once had such a machine. EVGO - in my opinion.
Assembly in Ussuriisk from original Korean parts.
One problem is with crooked Russian handles. I had it flowing from the purchase along all the joints, because all the hoses and pipes were put on glue, even without clamps. I wrote to the post office of the plant - they ignored it)))))
I disassembled everything and put the clamps and sealant on NORMA.
She worked for 10 years.
The motor and starting capacitor should come from DAEWOO and LG, this is essentially what it is.
You got a strange master. If a person takes money for diagnostics, he must name the reason, at least a faulty node.

Let's figure it out. You changed the engine, the Conder too. The result is zero.
Accordingly, the matter is in the control board. I had a problem with this once.
The control board contains two triacs in the 220th case (in my opinion, triacs, but possibly transistors, I don't remember now) that control the operation of the motor. To put it very simply, without special terms - they are impulses fed to the motor, and the more often they are, the faster the motor turns. PWM is called.
99% - it's about them. You remove the board, it is filled with compound.
Triacs can be seen - they even stick out from under the fill in my opinion. Two black rectangles on three legs.
Carefully remove the compound around and nibble them out of the board, leaving the legs longer on the board.
And then you read what is written on them in the radio store. Perhaps you will not find exactly those, then you drive into the search engine what is written on them and the word analog.
They cost 30-50 rubles)))))
Solder back, rejoice, erase)))))
Yes, after checking - fill it back with sealant!

It is no secret that in many apartments the bathroom is small and there is practically no space for installing a washing machine. In this case, a top-loading washing machine is perfect.It takes up little space and can be installed in even small rooms.

However, vertical machines, like everyone else, can break down over time. And some malfunctions are peculiar only to washing machines of this type. How to repair a vertical washing machine with your own hands will be described later in the article.

Many malfunctions of vertical machines are also relevant for frontal ones. However, top-loading machines also have faults that are unique to them.

These breakdowns are associated with the design features of the machine and the location of the units. And the main feature of the repair is access to the internal elements of the vertical washing machine by dismantling the side panels.

All of the following types of leaks can be eliminated without disassembling the machine body:

— Drain filter leaking... In this case, it is necessary to check the condition of the seal, and also to check the tightness of the filter. If the drain filter is dry, then go to the top cover.

— Deformation / wear of the upper door seal... If a puddle appears under the machine, then first of all we check and repair this particular rubber seal. When removing the control panel of the machine, you can notice a coating of rust on the body.

Such a leak can cause serious problems such as repairing or replacing expensive parts. Therefore, we eliminate the leak as soon as possible.

In this case, you do not need to change the entire seal, but only put rubber in the place of the leak. As a result, the seal will rise slightly and, therefore, the tightness will be restored.

It should be noted that dismantling the control panel is a fairly simple task. To do this, unscrew the screws on the sides.

The next step is to dismantle the side panels. To do this, unscrew the screws located on the back wall. Next, you need to pull off the bottom edge a little, and then move it down and back. When the side panels have been removed, the front can be removed. After all, there will be access to the screws with which the front wall is fixed. As a result, you will gain access to the internal components of the machine. Next, we are looking for leaks inside the washer.

— Checking the water pipe connection at the filler valve... If the connection is not reliable, then we carry out repairs with our own hands - we dismantle the tube, lubricate it with silicone, and then put it in its original place and tighten the clamp. Next, we check the integrity of the entire rubber tube.

— We inspect the rubber pipe connected to the washing machine tank. If there are traces of smudges, then we carry out repairs - we dismantle the branch pipe, seal it with silicone, and then install it in its old place.

— Check the reliability of the drain hose and drain connection... If there are traces of smudges, then we carry out similar repair actions.

— You should also check the condition of the rubber cuff located at the top.... We check the fastening of the clamp holding it back.

— Check tank for leaks... The screws with which the tank is connected could loosen over time. In this case, we tighten them, but not too much, so as not to collapse them. A small hole may also appear in the tank body of the machine. It should be carefully soldered.

—Water can also leak from under the drum bearing oil seal... In this case, most likely, we also replace the bearing.

This may be due to an imbalance in the drum of the machine. Such a malfunction of the machine can lead to serious consequences.

The opened doors will come into contact with the heating element, and this will lead to a breakdown of the latter. The drum will block and may be damaged. Damage to the tank and drum may require a complete replacement.

But this is, of course, an extreme case. If only the heating element is out of order, then it can be easily replaced with a new one.The process of replacing this element is carried out in the same way as for front-end machines.

Bearings can also become unusable. Replacing bearings in top-loading machines is slightly different from the same process for front-loading washing machines.

The drum of machines with vertical loading is supported on two semi-axles with bearings. These bearings are located on the outside of the washer tank. When replacing them, first of all, we disconnect all wires. Then we dismantle the pads located on the sides of the drum of the machine. Calipers with bearings are located under these pads.

First of all, we replace the bearing located on the side where the pulley is missing. Next, remove the caliper. The thread on this side must be right-handed, so we unscrew it counterclockwise. After dismantling this element, we replace the oil seal and bearing.

On the reverse side, you must first remove the drive belt. When the belt is removed, dismantle the pulley, as well as the grounding block.

On the reverse side of the caliper there is a left-hand thread. This means that you need to unscrew it clockwise. We clean the places of installation of new bearings, and then we lubricate. Next, the calipers are installed and assembly is performed.

In some cases, it may be necessary to disassemble the machine's tank. Then we unscrew the screws with which the cover is attached, and then carefully separate it at the soldering points. Reassembling the tank is done in the same way as for front loading machines.
The rest of the maintenance and repair work on top-loading machines is carried out in almost the same way as for front-loading washing machines.

Despite the fact that Daewoo washing machines are not very popular in the Russian Federation, they go on sale, and some buyers choose them.

These washing machines are reliable, but sooner or later they will break down just like the others. That is why many owners are interested in how to repair Daewoo washing machines with their own hands.

The manufacturer has provided a self-diagnosis system in the washing machines.

Washers on electronic control, having found a problem, report it by displaying fault codes on the display. And Daewoo semi-automatic washing machines signal a breakdown by flashing lights.

Let's consider the main error codes and the reasons for their appearance.

The essence of the malfunction is that the CM does not drain water. This could be caused by a malfunctioning drain pump (pump) or damaged wiring and connections to the pump.

Clogging of the drain filter and other elements of the drain system is not excluded. In addition, the water drain hose may be pinched or incorrectly connected.

The failure is that the water does not enter the tank or is poured too slowly. Sometimes this error does not mean a breakdown: the IE code can occur if you simply forgot to open the valve that supplies water to the system from the water supply.