Do-it-yourself indesit wiun 81 washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the indesit wiun 81 washing machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If your Indesit washing machine breaks down, then it is not necessary to immediately call the master. In some cases, you can make high-quality repairs yourself.

In the modern world, it is difficult to imagine your life without a washing machine. All owners of the Indesit brand sooner or later face special problems that can be eliminated with their own hands. Let's consider the most common causes of defects and ways to eliminate them.

Due to the specific design features, there are a number of defects that are quite common in the models of this brand. These include:

• Breakage of the heating element (heating element). Due to the lack of a protective coating against scale, it becomes covered with scale and, as a result, loses its performance.

• Burnt out line filter. As a rule, it is necessary to replace it with a new one after 3 years of operation.

• Closing the management block.

• Electrical - one of the weak points of technology, especially the electric motor sensor.

Quite often, cars are equipped with plastic parts and, due to high wear and tear, they tend to just crack and crumble. For example, in wiun 81 quite often it may not be necessary to repair, but to completely replace it with new ones.

Before talking about carrying out repair work, it is important to pay attention to possible error codes. Each of them will allow you to quickly determine the cause of the defect in technology.

Modern equipment and built-in self-diagnosis system simplifies the process of finding a breakdown. Indesite is able to recognize only a few of them, but it is very important to know what each code means.

Video (click to play).

The error can be displayed using indicators or a digital monitor. Remedies depend directly on the model itself.

• F-01 - short circuit in the electric motor circuit. The reasons can be different, but the most common is the ingress of moisture on the motor itself or the electrical circuit;

• F-02 - a problem with the tachogenerator, which can be associated with the electric motor and control module;

• F-03 - temperature sensor. It can appear as a result of a breakdown of the NTC sensor, open circuit or failure of the control board;

• F-04 - problem with the water level measurement sensor. This happens when the contacts are sticking. You can fix the problem only by installing a new part;

• F-05 - water drain pump error. There are several reasons: mechanical blocking, failure of the device, errors in the control circuit or the main module;

• F-06 - Control Panel Problems. Button breakdowns are shown here. This code is relevant for the AD series;

• F-07 - means "empty tank" when it is full. This is due to the protective algorithm of the technique, when the heating element is blocked. The reasons are used water valves or clogged filters;

• F-08 - problem of heating element relay and level sensor. Occurs when the relay contacts stick, the sensor fails, or the electrical circuit is open;

• F-09 - EEPROM. It indicates that there is a problem with volatile memory;

• F-10 - the time for filling the tank with water is exceeded, and the signal "Empty tank" is absent;

• F-11 - problems of the drain pump, which can be caused by an open, broken circuit or module;

• F-12 - malfunction of the indication system, caused by an open circuit;

• F-13 - the drying system does not respond;

• F-16 - blocking the drum (inherent in the technique with the vertical type of loading laundry);

• F-17 - there is no door lock;

• F-18 - there is no contact in the control module and the motor.

Knowing the meaning of the codes that appear on the scoreboard, you can significantly save time on identifying problems.

At home, every man can cope with simple breakdowns. Let's consider in detail trouble-shooting, which are not rare in the Indesites.

If it fails, it will be impossible to wash, squeeze out or rinse the laundry. Clogs are minor causes. For this, the filter is removed and cleaned of all kinds of contaminants. Dismantling is carried out without disassembling equipment. The particularity of the structure depends only on the series.

If the reason is caused by a broken impeller, then a new spare part is installed in its place. It is important to conduct a thorough examination of the moving structural elements. When traces of wear are detected on the pulley and other elements, the parts are replaced. It should be borne in mind that correctly selected spare parts will be able to return the equipment to work for a long period of time.

Problems may be associated with a foreign object getting stuck between the tank and the coil, weak belt tension or looseness, defects in the electronic module.

The first thing that is done is scrolling in free mode. If it doesn't move, then something is definitely stuck there. If the drum rotates, then it is worth disassembling the machine and checking the condition of the belt. If necessary, tighten or replace it. In case of problems with the motor, a diagnosis will be required. Then you will have to resort to the help of masters.

Replacing some elements is quite simple right at home. This will require spare parts and a working soldering iron. A failed capacitor or resistor can be identified with a tester. The thyristor unit is tested with a resistance, the indicators of which should not exceed 20 V. The trigger is measured by the voltage indicator of the input contacts, which are not higher than 12 V. Soldering is done with rosin and solder with tin and lead.

All of them can lose their performance due to vibration processes during operation. For replacement, a fee is released to perform desoldering and soldering.

This part of the technique has insufficient moisture protection. When condensation forms on the contacts, the system stops functioning. This leads to the failure of the control unit. To remove such a breakdown, you will need to disassemble the machine and dry the board from water. If after this the problem is not eliminated, then diagnostics should be carried out at the service center.

In them, brushes, windings or lamellas are most often susceptible to wear. If the model is very old, then the brushes will be in terrible condition and will cause sparks in the motor when running. To replace them, you need to purchase an original product. The matter is simple, but it requires care.

If, during operation of the motor, noise is noticeable or it does not reach full power, it heats up, buzzes, then this indicates problems in the winding. You can check it using a standard tester, which should show a discrepancy in the value of no more than 0.5 ohms. In case of failure, the best option would be to search for the same rotor or stator, in rare cases - a new motor.

With a slight delamination of the lamellas (no more than 0.5 mm), their groove will help to correct the situation. If it peels off completely or comes off, then we can talk about replacing the engine.

The problem can be seen with the naked eye. If you have a thick scale coat, it should be replaced. To carry out this operation, you should adhere to the following algorithm:

• Unscrew the fasteners from the rear panel and remove it.

• Next, the seal is removed and the part itself is removed.

• Installation of heating elements in the same place.

• Assembling the structure in reverse order.

The breakdown of this part is not new, especially for versions wisl 62 and wiun 102. This is directly related to the marriage on the production line.

You can get to the filter by removing the top panel of the machine. The procedure itself is so simple that it is not difficult to do it at home.Having taken out the old surge protector, it is necessary to install a serviceable spare part in its place and assemble the structure in its original form.

To change this worn out part, you first need to purchase an original spare part. The best way to do this is to take the broken bearing with you to a specialist store.

When replacing such an element on models wiun 81, wisl 103, wisl 105 need to:

• Remove the top cover. For this, fasteners (self-tapping screws) are unscrewed from behind with a Phillips screwdriver.

• After - the back panel is removed and retracted.

• Remove the front cover. It is worth being extremely careful here. First, we dismantle the tray for receiving detergents, then the panel fasteners are unscrewed, then the rubber cuff is removed, the screws of the intake hatch are removed, the front wall is disassembled.

• To install the bearing, the drum belts and drive must be removed, and then the drum itself.

• Removing the spacer bar and counterweight.

• Disconnection of the electric wires and release of the fastening of the movable part of the coil.

• Dismantling the drum: removing the clamps, removing the rubber bands, removing the reel with a movable mechanism.

• Installation of bearings. In this case, it is worth checking the quality of the sealing gum. Perhaps they should be replaced immediately.

• Putting the equipment in the reverse order.

During installation, it is important to monitor the presence of unnecessary parts.

Washing machine Indesit allows you to cope with DIY repairs with small defects. In case of serious breakdowns, it is recommended to contact specialized centers that have professional equipment at their disposal.

The popularity of the tyralny machines Indesit received due to the low cost. But for the initial cheapness you have to pay extra with repairs - the reliability of the brand is in question.

But you can repair the Indesit washing machine with your own hands and eliminate many breakdowns if you have basic knowledge of mechanics, electrical and electronics.

First of all, you need to determine what kind of breakdown occurred. Initial diagnostics will help you decide if it is possible to fix the problem yourself or if you still have to spend money on professional repairs.

The right step would be to have a preliminary acquaintance with the scheme of the washing machine in order to have an idea of ​​where everything is.

Sometimes, to determine the cause of the failure of household appliances, it is enough to read the instructions for use, which, among other things, contains recommendations for eliminating breakdowns.

The first step is to take a look at the display. If it is impossible to complete the specified process, the washing machine issues special codes on the display.

Error codes in the operation of the washer are given in the instructions that the manufacturer must attach to his own product:

With the help of a very useful multimeter device, it is possible to check various contacts, wiring, sensors. The device will show if there is power everywhere.

Sometimes it is enough to listen to the sound emitted by the unit. When the washing machine starts to creak, make excessive noise, and sometimes rattle, then, most likely, there are problems in the bearings or the drum, the oil seal is damaged, the counterweight fasteners are loose, the shock absorbers are in poor condition.

Calling the wizard is the only correct solution when:

  • the warranty period has not expired - if the operating rules are followed, the repair will be free;
  • threatening smoke came from the car.

In other cases, there are said to be options. But always the first stage of repair begins with disconnecting the faulty equipment from the mains. For negligence, electricity will punish necessarily and severely. An indispensable rule of a home master: do not act at random, use the instructions.

When the display does not report a malfunction, there are no leaks, smoke, burning smell, then usually the problem is easy to fix:

  • If home laundry won't turn on, first you need to check if the plug is firmly inserted into the outlet.Occasionally, the washing machine can shut down due to power surges. It is also necessary to make sure that the operating mode is set correctly on the control panel;
  • When water does not flow into the tank, it is recommended to press the button responsible for starting and stopping the unit again, make sure that the door is closed tightly. Sometimes the fault is insufficient pressure in the water supply system, perhaps the tap was simply turned off, the hose was damaged. The reason may lie in the failure of both the program and the control system. Elimination occurs by repeated access to the "Start / Pause" button;
  • When the drain is not working first you need to check the filter - sometimes it is enough just to clean it.

And the source of the frightening rumble can be any object (for example, a coin) that accidentally ends up in the drum.

This is a fairly frequent breakdown, although the declared service life of the heating element is 10-15 years. However, numerous washes in very hot and hard water, constant overloading of the tank, and low-grade detergents do an evil deed.

Over time, a kind of "coat" of various salts is formed on the heating element. It breaks down from overheating, it is no longer possible to restore it. A heater malfunction is indicated by a cold hatch when the wash mode is on and, of course, laundry that has not been washed in cold water.

Replacing a damaged part is quite simple: the manufacturers have placed the heating element in such a way that it is easy to get to it by opening the back cover of the case. The only inconvenience is that the car needs to be disconnected from all communications in order to turn the right side for repair. The heating element is placed under the drum pulley. Care should be taken when disconnecting and replacing the wiring board.

A minimum of tools will be required: a flat and curly screwdriver, a key with a head are enough. You will also need a multimeter or tester to check the heating element. It is wiser to buy a new heater, the original Italian one.

  1. Disconnect the unit from all communications.
  2. Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the cover.
  3. Further, under the tank, you need to find the contacts of the heating element and attach the multimeter probes to them. Normal resistance is 25-35 Ohm, other indicators indicate a malfunction.
  4. The next operation: disconnecting all wires with terminals, fixing their position in memory.
  5. Then the nut is unscrewed on the bolt, the end of which is located in the center of the heater base.
  6. In order for the bolt to go into the hole, it should be gently knocked over it.
  7. Pull out the heating element base by picking it up with a flat screwdriver.
  8. Move the thermal sensor from the damaged part to the new heating element.
  9. Clean out the formed debris from the seat for the electric heater.
  10. Leave the new heating element in its intended place, fasten it with a bolt.

Then it remains to return the wires to their original position, close the rear cover of the machine and restore the connection with communications.

This is also a fairly common problem. The pump is a weak point of automatic washing machines. In addition to a blockage, when it is enough to clean the hose and filter, the impeller can jam. It is located behind the drain filter, which must be unscrewed and removed.

To prevent the impeller, you need to try to rotate. It should not be too light: in the normal state, the impeller rotates with certain delays due to the magnet in the coil. Sometimes threads, hair, laces and other similar debris wrap around the impeller so that they even block it. All these interferences must be removed.

It happens that the plastic body is deformed and begins to clamp the blades. When there is no possibility of replacement, the blades must be cut with a knife by no more than 2 mm, and the washing machine can still be used.

If after that the work is not restored, then the breakdown is more significant and requires a detailed inspection - the pump will have to be disassembled. The car is laid on its side, the screws that fix the pump to the casing are unscrewed, the electric cable and 2 hoses are disconnected.

Clean the hoses if necessary. The tester checks the motor windings to eliminate the possibility of breakage. Typical resistance values ​​here are 150-300 ohms.

Without hoping for memory, it is worth noting the orientation of the pump relative to the engine I. Then the pump motor is disconnected from the housing, the rotor is removed from the stator. Often everything inside is clogged with dirt that interferes with the rotation of the rotor. In such cases, a thorough rinsing is required.

The rotor axis bearing is lubricated with lithium, the oil seal is adjusted. Subsequent assembly is carried out using a sealant to prevent leaks.

If you follow the instructions for caring for your washing machine and clean the drain hose every 6 months, the likelihood of breakage of the drain system will be greatly reduced.

Indesit's motor is well-designed, reliable and durable. However, nothing is eternal, and at one not very beautiful moment, the "heart of the machine" may fail. The reason can be not only wear of the mechanism, but also excessive overload.

  1. First, the outer panels are removed from the machine, usually the top and rear.
  2. O Disconnect the supply wires.
  3. Remove the belt from the pulley.
  4. Screw the fasteners, remove the motor.

After diagnostics, the final decision is made to repair or replace the engine. Usually they tend to the latter option - it is difficult to restore the engine, it is easier to completely replace it. The installation of a new engine is carried out in the reverse order.

Before disassembly, the assembly should be photographed, then there will be no problems with what to screw in.

When in a working washing machine, especially during spinning, unusual sounds appear, and not episodic, but gradually increasing, this is a clear signal of a malfunction of the bearings, which indicates the ease of rotation of the drum.

Do-it-yourself repair in such a situation is possible, but you cannot call it simple - you need extreme care, strict adherence to the sequence of operations:

  1. Remove the top and rear panels.
  2. Remove dispenser, control unit.
  3. Twist the cuff clamp, remove the cuff itself and the hatch locking device.
  4. Remove the front wall and counterweight.
  5. Remove the tubular electric heater, noting the sequence of connecting the wires in memory.
  6. Disconnect the parts connected to the drum tank, dismantle the drive belt and motor.
  7. Remove the tank, place it on a flat place with the pulley up, then unscrew the pulley bolt, remove the pulley itself.
  8. Using a mallet (you can use a simple hammer and a wooden gasket) to sink the shaft down, untwist and divide the tank into two halves.
  9. Remove the bearing with a special puller, dismantle the old oil seals.
  10. After installing fresh oil seals, press in a new bearing.

The assembly of the washing machine is carried out in reverse order with strict sequence of operations. To prevent the tank from leaking, all seams must be sealed.

The main thing when replacing a bearing is care and adherence to the sequence of operations.

A flabby hatch lock can cause another nuisance - the washing machine will stop turning on. The shut-off device is also equipped with contacts, and when something prevents complete closure, electricity does not flow to the units of the unit.

Failure is usually caused by the accumulated dirt in the lock. After its elimination, the normal operation of the device, as a rule, is restored.

And the mortiser s dampens excessive vibrations that appear in the washing machine. This is especially necessary during spinning, when the rotating drum is at the highest speed. Over time, they diminish in effectiveness.

As a result - excessive vibration, atypical noises, knocking during the spin cycle. A common cause of failure is the wear of the gaskets and separating the piston and cylinder, which subsequently deform.

The shock absorber cylinder contains a rod, consisting of a rod and a gasket treated with a high-friction lubricant. Oscillations are damped by moving the piston.

The jerky jerk of the tank forces the piston into the cylinder, reducing vibration. There is also a spring in the cylinder that returns the piston to its original position - it is called the return one.

To get to the shock absorbers, you will have to remove the rear panel (in some modifications, the side or front cover can be removed). After unscrewing the nut at the bottom of the shock absorber, it is disconnected from the body. In the same way, the part is released from above. A new shock absorber is installed in place of the old one and fixed in the reverse order.

In the latest models, instead of shock absorbers, dampers are used, where the return spring has been replaced by a whole spring system attached to the upper area of ​​the tank and providing it with a "suspended" position. This design is more reliable, better dampens unwanted shocks.

To check the performance, the damper must be removed from the case by unscrewing the bolt in its lower segment, and try to press on it so as to compress and then unclench the mechanism. If the result is minimal, the device is in normal working condition. When the piston easily changes position, the damper needs to be replaced.

It is removed from the case in the same way as conventional shock absorbers, although in some models the mounting bolts are replaced with plastic pins with latches. Install the new damper in the usual way - in reverse order with respect to the assembly.

It happens that the detergent does not want to leave the tray. This usually happens when he is poured there without measure. The problem disappears with the correct dosage.

Weak water pressure may also be to blame. It is worth trying to clean the filter where the washing machine connects to the inlet hose.

Another option is to increase the pressure at the tap supplying water. Sometimes water cannot enter the tray due to a blocked valve. Then you should pull out the tray, find the valve in the form of a key and carefully clean it.

These are the most common causes of improper detergent powder behavior and can be easily dealt with without the help of a professional. A more difficult case would be a problem with the water inlet valve where the powder does not leave the tray at all. Valve replacement is already required. The same can be said about the solenoid valve, which is responsible for filling the cuvette with water with water.

The control unit in Indesit washing machines does not have reliable protection against moisture, as a result, the condensate gets on the contacts, short circuits occur, removing the device from the working state.

Repair requires subtle diagnostics in the "Autotest" mode, serious knowledge in radio engineering, masterly possession of a soldering iron, skills in handling microcircuits, boards, semiconductors. This is usually the area of ​​expertise of skilled professionals.

For the rare daredevils from the army of home crafts, the most general tips:

  • remove the cover from the control unit;
  • remove the module;
  • inspect faulty contacts and connections;
  • evaporate damaged parts;
  • solder conditioned elements in their place.

But work with electronics is far from being for everyone, so we recommend that you abandon experiments and turn to professionals.

You can get acquainted with the practical application of tips for repair and replacement of spare parts by watching informative videos.

Quick replacement of heating elements in the Indesit washing machine:

How to change the bearing yourself: