Do-it-yourself Katyusha washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Katyusha washing machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Despite the fact that modern household appliances are a rather complex technological product, the manufacturer still left the opportunity to prove themselves to those who like to try everything. Simply put, some of the "diseases" of home laundry can be healed with your own hands.

top loader drive pulley (side view)

In this series of articles, I will try to explain clearly,

washing machine independently, without the involvement of "heavy artillery". Of course, we are talking about the simplest operations and malfunctions that do not require special equipment, knowledge and experience. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break anything. Often, many washing machine parts are very difficult to buy right here and now. Therefore, before you take on something, you need to study all the related information. "Forewarned is forearmed".

The owner, in my opinion, should be able to perform a number of operations. It often happens that people call the foreman simply to clean the drain pump filter, or to remove metal objects from the hatch seal. Installation and adjustment of the machine can also be done on your own. You just need to carefully read the instruction manual and the recommendations of the masters. If something is not clear, there is no need to hesitate - you can contact a professional and get a free consultation.

No, I ask you not to get me wrong: someone simply has the financial ability to entrust the service to the master, and there is no desire to do it on their own. Why not? But very often, calling a specialist is a blow to the family budget. For such cases, I wrote recommendations for repairing a washing machine on my own, without the involvement of a specialist. I hope my efforts will not be wasted and this will help you save a hundred or two.

Video (click to play).

Hello, I was disassembling the Vyatka Katyusha model 522 washing machine, when examining the pipes I found a blockage, I removed it, checked the pump directly, it works without interference, put everything back together and still does not drain the water, I don’t understand the reason? What to do?

Hello! Check the filter, if everything is clean, then it is better to call the wizard, because a more qualified inspection is needed.

Sooner or later, every builder thinks about purchasing a rangefinder. If you don't know which model ...

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Message stasprachkis »29 Nov 2013 23:34

The problem is where do you buy a branded oil seal? If it is possible to pick up an analogue of the bearing, then the oil seal from the service with the bearing will cost half a repair at the price *** The chief in his Zanus now has a bearing manufactured by VPZ. The same one that goes to the front hubs of front-wheel drive VAZ cars. They did not change the oil seal - they smeared it with silicone (the master said - a 50/50 guarantee that it will not flow - until it flows). The pleasure cost 200 re, not counting the work. For a branded bearing they asked for 1500-1800 re, and even a week to wait for delivery from Moscow. zabyl (Kazan, Russia) 18 oct. 200512: 15: 29 2Ara: Do you have a bearing on the drum or on the engine? On my engine (Vyatka-18), just yesterday. What are we going to do? They say - take it. I can't lift anything heavy at all. : ((sanvitso (Rostov) 18 Oct.

Program selection knob. Located on the control panel on the far right of it.

Prices are indicated only for work, excluding the cost of parts required for replacement. * When carrying out repairs, diagnostics are free. In case of refusal to repair - 400 rubles.Contacts of the Service Center Contact the contact center of the SOS-Service workshop to leave a request for repair: (495) 150-16-89 Characteristics of SM Vyatka Katyusha 1022 P GENERAL DATA Type of installation freestanding Loading method frontal Control method electronic (intelligent) Yes dry no Max.
load of laundry 3 kg Color white Dimensions (WxDxH) 60x42x85 cm SAFETY FUNCTIONS Protection against leaks is SPINNING Speed of rotation (spinning) up to 1000 rpm Speed selection is PROGRAMS Number of programs 22 Special washing modes for delicate fabrics, economical wash ADDITIONAL FUNCTIONS Tank material stainless steel. steel Add.

So I did not see the process of pressing-in, I hoped that at home I would see what and how, so that next time myself. The craftsmen said that they do not do such work at home - in the workshop there is a stand and special removers and it is unrealistic (inconvenient) to do such work alone, although it is possible with the risk of splitting the drum (without skill and tools).
The problem is where do you buy a branded oil seal? If you can pick up an analogue of a bearing, then an oil seal from a service with a bearing will cost half a repair at a price (the service is reluctant to sell spare parts - repair is their bread after all). EgorP (Russia) Oct 17.

Separate enough laundry to avoid overloading the drum of the machine. Each item must be carefully examined so that nothing accidentally remains in the pockets.
If there are badly sewn buttons or gaps, the item needs to be repaired. Some things will need to be turned inside out, if there are zippers on the linen, they need to be fastened.
When sorting laundry, be sure to look at the labels. They have information that will tell you how to properly wash this or that thing. Do not load too little laundry into the machine, but do not put too much, optimally from 1.5 to 3 kg with a maximum load of 4.5 kg.
After sorting the laundry and placing it in the drum, you can start washing.

Close the hatch door tightly.
Pour the powder into the tray and close it.
Press the button farthest from the powder receptacle and turn on the washing machine.
We set the temperature and select the required program.

Maestro, thanks! Alexzz MemberMessages: 4287 08/28/2006 08:08 PM Dim- wrote: He took the crosspiece off the machine and ran on How many times to teach you - you can not change bearings at the client's home! Dim- MemberMessages: 435 08/28/2006 21:22 Alexzz, I don’t change the bearings themselves But why drag the whole machine with me? Well, her ... Dim- wrote: I took the crosspiece off the typewriter and ran on. Tomorrow I’ll run along the way and put everything back together. Dim- UserMessages: 435 08/29/2006 21:25 Found only 36х62х10.

But for 20 rubles (less than 1 dollar)! According to GOST, and the stuffing box Yes, now I remember, I already had to change bearings on such a Vyatka, and put the same stuffing box 36x62x10. Maestro Guest 217.8. *. * 08/29/2006 09:37 PM Dim-, pulls even better.

The sleeve is probably already eaten ... Dim- MemberMessages: 435 08/29/2006 22:10 Maestro, oh eaten ...

The device of the bin for detergents The powder receptacle of the Vyatka Katyusha washing machine is very simple, and it looks like most automatic machines. This is a rectangular pull-out drawer, opening which we can see that the interior is divided into 3 compartments:

the first compartment, if you count from left to right, is necessary for soaking the laundry; if soaking is not planned, you do not need to pour powder there;
the second compartment for the main wash, we pour the powder there most often;
the third compartment is used for any special additives, from simple blue to high quality conditioner.

Before putting the powder into the hopper, make sure that there is no detergent left in it from the previous wash.

Before and after washing Immediately before washing, soiled laundry must be sorted by type of fabric, color, degree of soiling, etc.

So, the Vyatka Katyusha washing machine was delivered to your home from the store in its original packaging. And of course, I want to quickly open it and test it, but there is no need to rush in this matter. First, carefully read the instructions for this washing machine, and only then do any manipulations with the equipment. Well, if you are too lazy to read the factory instructions, look at its abbreviated version, which we have provided in this article.

First, carefully open the packaging and take out the washing machine.There is no need to tear the box, be careful. Next, you need to remove the transport elements. In the picture below you can see a schematic representation and a brief description of how to remove these elements.

Thanks to the transport elements, the drum cross is securely fixed and cannot rotate during transportation of the washing machine.

After you unscrew all the above parts, they need to be folded in a safe place so that later, when you need to transport the machine, you can return them back. Now we need to drag the Vyatka Katyusha 722r car to where it will be located permanently. By the way, the place of such placement must be prepared in advance:

the floor is strengthened and leveled (at least relatively);
removed any carpets, instead of them you can lay an anti-vibration mat;
in the immediate vicinity of the body of the machine, there must be service communications (water supply, sewerage, electrical outlet);
there should be a gap of at least 1.5 centimeters around the machine body, the gap between the bottom of the washer and the floor should be about 1 cm.

Once you have properly prepared the spot for the washing machine, you can drag it there and start leveling. The body of the washing machine must be installed strictly according to the level, the difference is allowed no more than 2 degrees. To align the body, you need to twist the legs of the machine. To do this, you must first loosen the locknuts on the legs, and then unscrew the legs to the desired height. It is necessary to provide sufficient clearance between the floor and the body, and most importantly, align the machine, otherwise it will make more noise during operation.

Then you can start connecting the machine. The instruction indicates that a separate electrical outlet with grounding is required to connect a Vyatka Katyusha washing machine. It is powered by a 1.5 square meter copper wire. mm or aluminum by 2.5 sq. mm, while this socket must be protected by an automatic machine. We will shove the power cord into the outlet last, first connect the machine to the water supply and sewerage system. How to do this is described in the article Do-it-yourself installation and connection of the washing machine.

Before you start using the Vyatka Katyusha washing machine, you need to know about the purpose of all its most important elements. This is especially true for the control panel elements, because you need to be able to use its knobs and buttons. So, let's list and briefly describe the most important external elements of the washing machine with which the user constantly interacts directly.

Hatch door with locking mechanism and handle. The hatch door reliably insulates the drum during washing so that no water flows out of it. To make the door close well, monitor the condition of the hatch cuff and the locking device.

Be careful with the door handle, on the Vyatka Katyusha washer it is rather flimsy.

Powder tray. A special drawer where the detergent is placed before washing. In some cases, it is permissible to put the detergent directly into the drum.
Program selection knob. Located on the control panel on the far right of it. With this knob you can choose any of the presented washing modes.
Knob for regulating water temperature. Located next to the program selection knob, its name speaks for itself.
Buttons. There are 4 buttons immediately behind the handles. The first button from the handles allows you to turn off the spin, the second activates the half load mode, the third allows you to pause the wash, and the fourth turns the machine on and off.

In addition to the indicated elements on the control panel of the Vyatka Katyusha washing machine, there are two light bulbs. One indicator notifies the user that the machine is turned on, and the second indicates that heating is taking place.

The powder receptacle of the Vyatka Katyusha washing machine is designed very simply, and it looks like most automatic machines. This is a rectangular pull-out drawer, opening which we can see that the interior is divided into 3 compartments:

the first compartment, if you count from left to right, is necessary for soaking the laundry; if soaking is not planned, you do not need to pour powder there;
the second compartment for the main wash, we pour the powder there most often;
the third compartment is used for any special additives, from simple blue to high quality conditioner.

Before putting the powder into the hopper, make sure that there is no detergent left in it from the previous wash.

Immediately before washing, soiled laundry must be sorted by type of fabric, color, degree of soiling, etc. Separate enough laundry to avoid overloading the drum of the machine. Each item must be carefully examined so that nothing accidentally remains in the pockets. If there are badly sewn buttons or gaps, the item needs to be repaired. Some things will need to be turned inside out, if there are zippers on the linen, they need to be fastened.

When sorting laundry, be sure to look at the labels. They have information that will tell you how to properly wash this or that thing. Do not load too little laundry into the machine, but you do not need to put too much, optimally from 1.5 to 3 kg with a maximum load of 4.5 kg. After sorting the laundry and placing it in the drum, you can start washing.

Close the hatch door tightly.
Pour the powder into the tray and close it.
Press the button farthest from the powder receptacle and turn on the washing machine.
We set the temperature and select the required program. As soon as the program is selected, washing will start immediately.
As soon as the program selection knob is turned to the “stop” position and the door is unlocked, you can take out the laundry.

After washing, be sure to unplug the machine and turn off the water. Wipe the inside of the detergent box with a dry cloth. You also need to wipe the door cuff, the inner walls of the drum and the front panel if moisture gets on it. Do not close the hatch after washing, in general, the hatch should be kept closed only during washing, in all other cases it must be kept open.

Well, we have retold the basic information contained in the original instructions. If a factory manual is required, you can find it below the text of the publication. We hope you find what you are looking for. Good luck!

The washing machine is no longer a luxury item for modern housewives. Today this "workhorse" is installed in almost every, even the most modest home. But no matter how modern and wonderful household appliances may seem, they still tend to break. The easiest way in such a situation, of course, is to invite a specialist who will quickly fix the malfunction. True, it will not be cheap.

But you can do it differently. It is not so difficult to repair a washing machine yourself. You don't need to have any special skills for this. You just need to carefully understand the structure of the washing machine and understand the principle of its operation. Therefore, if your washing machine breaks down, then, after carefully reading this article, you can fix at least half of the unpleasant situations with your own hands. So let's get started.

All household washing units not only have a similar device, but work on the same principle.

That's all. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about it. To understand why the washing machine broke down, you first need to know exactly when it happened, that is, to correctly determine the node that is working at the moment. Since the principle of operation of all units is the same, the main malfunctions of washing machines of any brand are also very similar. In this article we will try to disassemble them all, well, maybe, with the exception of some very small ones.If the washing machine shows no signs of life at all, the reason may be ridiculously trivial - they just forgot to plug it in.Also, the machine will not work if the door is open or not closed properly. This is usually signaled by the electronics and the corresponding icon is displayed on the display. The wrong washing program is also one of the common reasons.If all of the above reasons are excluded, and the washing machine still does not work, the matter may be that the electrical part is out of order. First of all, check the machines on the dashboard, they were probably knocked out by overload.Everything is fine? Check the outlet to see if it's burnt out? Now inspect the plug, unscrew it and make sure that the contacts are not oxidized and are in working order. Image - Do-it-yourself Katyusha washing machine repair

And everything is fine here? Moving further along the wire. You will need to remove the outer panels to check the terminal connections and ring the power cord. Just remember to unplug the power plug before doing this.

If your automatic machine has a mechanical timer, it may be the cause of the breakdown in it. Rotate the knob until you hear the drum spinning. If it works, then the unit is most likely burned out and will have to be replaced.

Another reason the washing machine won't turn on may be a closed intake valve. Make sure it is in the "open" position and that water enters the drum.

There may also be several reasons for this:

Heating element burned out. If this happens, the sequence of processes is lost and the washing does not start. The assembly needs to be replaced.
The belt drive has broken. We'll have to completely disassemble the machine to see this.
The water level or temperature sensors are out of order.
Burnt out processor. The washing machine does not receive any commands and does not understand what it needs to do.
Inlet valve defective. It may not open well or close tightly as a result of a blockage. It is necessary to remove the blockage, and so that the situation does not recur again, install an additional filter at the inlet.
The most unpleasant and expensive reason to repair is a burnt out electric motor. It will definitely not be possible to eliminate such a breakdown on your own, of course, if you do not know how to rewind electric motors.

If the washing machine does not draw water or does it very badly, there may be several reasons for this:

the supply valve is closed;
the inlet hose is clogged or deformed; you need to straighten it and clear the blockage;
the intake filter is coked; to clean it, turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the machine, remove the filter and rinse it under a strong stream of water, and then perform all the steps in reverse order;
the intake valve is clogged and out of order; you need to turn off the water and replace it;
the water level regulator is out of order; when the water level in the drum rises, the displaced air presses on the pressure regulator and the switch is triggered; if the system is clogged or damaged, no water will be drawn.

Another reason why the machine gets water into the machine very slowly or does not flow at all may be due to the low pressure in the system. This is not a breakdown and you will not be able to fix it with your own hands. As soon as the pressure in the system returns to normal, everything will correct itself. If this situation repeats regularly, then to eliminate it, you need to raise the pressure in the system. For example, equip a pressure tank in the attic of a private house or under the ceiling of an apartment.

If the washing machine stops during washing and does not finish it, there may be several reasons:

Most often, the washing machine does not spin the laundry because the drain system is clogged. To remedy the situation, you need to clean the filter and remove hair, threads and various small objects that have entered the system.

If it does not help, then the pump may have burnt out and the water from the tank is not pumped out.

When the water drains off normally, and the spinning does not work, then the drive belt is worn out or stretched. To fix the problem, it must be tightened or replaced with a new one.

Check the selected mode, perhaps the wash program includes a pause.
Inspect the drive belt. It probably jumped off or stretched out. Press on the belt to check the tension. Its offset should be approximately 12 mm. If your washing machine is equipped with a tensioner, loosen or tighten the belt to the correct level. In the case when such a design is not provided, the only way out of the situation is to replace the belt.
Pull on the loading door. If the latch is broken or jammed and the door does not close properly, the drum will not work. Open the door and close it abruptly again, press firmly. If all else fails, the lock is broken and needs to be replaced.
Ring the electric motor. It is likely that it burned out.

This malfunction can also be caused by several reasons.

Opening delay. The door of the washing machine may not open because the drum has not yet finished rotating and the washing program has not been completed. One or two minutes after the end of the process, the lock will unscrew itself.
There is still water in the tank. Many washing machines are programmed so that until the water is completely pumped out of the tank, the lock will not open. To open the door, you need to forcibly drain the water and check if the drain filter is clogged. After that, everything should work out.
The interlock switch is broken and needs to be replaced.

Such a malfunction can be determined by the nature of the sound that the machine makes. If you hear uneven metallic ringing, banging, or rattling that stops when the drum stops, it is most likely that small metal objects have entered the machine. These can be coins, nuts, keys that fell out of pockets. (See also: Why the washing machine makes a lot of noise during spinning)

A buzzing sound that becomes quieter when the door is pressed firmly indicates a broken latch. If it is not repaired in time, the door can jam at the most inopportune moment.

A squeal while the drum rotates indicates a slipping of the drive belt. Try to pull it on, everything should work out.

Crackling and knocking during drum operation indicates bearing wear. We'll have to replace the bearing in the washing machine. If this is not done, the shaft can be broken and the repair of the machine will be much more expensive.

In order to determine exactly where and how much it flows, you need to do a simple operation. Dry the floor and place a dry cloth under the machine. Run a short wash cycle without laundry or powder. Examine the rag carefully, you will see from which side you need to look for a leak.

The main reasons for the leakage of the washing machine can be due to: cracks in the hoses, loosening of the clamps, distortion or rupture of the seal on the door, and so on. If all parts of the machine are intact, the reason may be that the sewer is clogged and the water simply has nowhere to go.

First of all, you need to disassemble the machine and inspect the heating element. It is likely that too much scale has formed on it or that it has burned out. In the first case, it is enough to clean the heater from limescale, in the second case, the unit will have to be replaced. (See also: How to descale a washing machine)

If the automatic machine does not heat the water, then the reason may lie in the water level regulator. When the device is broken, the unit simply "does not understand" that there is enough water and it is time to turn on the heating element.

Another likely cause is a broken thermostat. It turns off the heating element even before the water heats up to the required temperature.

The most harmless reason may be choosing the wrong washing mode. See if the switch is in the rinse delay mode.It is also likely that the wash program has stopped due to a lack of electricity - check the plugs.

Another quickly removable reason that water does not leave the washer can be clogging of the filter or drain pipe, as well as its bending. Check and clean these parts and reconnect the clipper.

A clogged or broken pump is another cause of a malfunction. Forcibly drain the water, disconnect the pump, clean it or replace it with a new one.

The next reason due to which the washing machine does not drain the water may lie in the electrical part: any contacts have oxidized, the timer or water level switch is out of order. All these areas need to "ring" and, if necessary, replace the damaged part.

The first reason that the washing machine suddenly starts walking around the apartment is a strong overload. Remove some of the items from the drum and follow the instructions in the future. If there are not very many things, they may have got tangled and strayed into a lump. Untangle the knot and load the clipper more evenly.

If the washing machine jumps or vibrates when spinning even with a small amount of items, then the reason may be a break in the spring holding the drum. When replacing the spring, carefully inspect the counterweights that are bolted to the tank. It is possible that the fasteners are loose and the weights are loose. Correct the situation.

See also - Replacing shock absorbers in a washing machine with your own hands

Also, the machine, which is not set according to the level, "starts to dance". Adjust the position of the washer using the feet. They have adjusting bolts. If they are not enough, just place a few sheets of thick cardboard in the right places.

Our partners, the RemonTechnik service center, are ready to assist in the repair of large household appliances of any complexity. Didn't do it yourself? Seek help from qualified craftsmen.

As you can see, repairing washing machines is not that difficult. But is it possible to make the washing machine break as little as possible? It turns out you can. The most frequent breakdowns of washing machines are associated precisely with improper operation. In order for the unit to serve you as long as possible, you need to follow some simple rules:

carefully study the instructions and strictly follow all of its points;
do not overload the machine;
use special detergents containing a water softener;
once every three months, run the longest wash cycle without clothes, but with a descaler, this will help keep the heating element in order;
carefully check all pockets for small items and debris;
regularly clean filters at the inlet and outlet of the system;
install an additional cleaning filter, this will protect the system from dirt and debris;
after each wash, leave the door ajar and wipe the rubber seal dry;
purchase and install a stabilizer, it will help protect the electrical part of the machine from power surges.

"Vyatka" - domestic washing machines that are respected in the technical market. There are compact washing machines with a simple and familiar design in many homes in our country. Despite the good build quality, sometimes the owners still need to repair the Vyatka washing machine. Do not interfere and try to repair it yourself in order to avoid the appearance of even more serious malfunctions.

High-quality repair of the Vyatka washing machine will be carried out by an experienced master, who can be called directly at home. Describe the problem over the phone, and the specialist will bring his own tools, diagnose and quickly fix the malfunction. As a bonus, you will receive a lot of practical advice on how to care for your equipment. The master will tell you what rules should be followed during operation, what can be done and what cannot be done with the machine.

Periodic maintenance is recommended to ensure a long service life of the device.A private specialist provides services for preventive examination and adjustment by agreement.

During operation, breakdowns of the "Vyatka" washing machine often occur. The reasons for the failures can be different. To identify and eliminate them, you need competent diagnostics and a professional tool.

Most often, breakdowns of the Vyatka washing machine appear in the following form:

the water in the washer does not heat up;
water does not enter inside;
the liquid is not drained immediately;
the washing machine is leaking.

Sometimes the control unit functions unstably, mechanical damage occurs.

All modern washing machines are equipped with a self-diagnosis system. This makes it possible to identify possible breakdowns even at the stage of their inception. The products of this brand have a control module, in which, based on the results of checking the functionality of the nodes, error codes of the Vyatka washing machine are generated. To provide information to the user, they are displayed on the board.

It is possible to decipher the error codes of the Vyatka washing machine using the operating instructions, where the table is located.

Yes, it's clear here, first I want to see what's what, maybe everything is simpler than I think, so I ask people who can tell me what?

Yes, I’m strained with money!

TODAY I took it off, I didn’t have anything, so now I want to call him for integrity!

During, a Living Man has arisen!
Dimentius, you remind me of "I".
Either you are a fool, or you breed everyone, or Themselves were led from scratch.

Topics about "Vyatka" I looked through

There is another option that you have the Internet quite recently.
In this case, I advise you not to pin great hopes on HIM.

One of the most common reasons leading to the failure of the Vyatka-Avtomat washing machine is the failure of the electric motor (EM) winding in the command device drive. In repair shops, such a malfunction is usually eliminated by replacement. Moreover, they prefer to deal not with the renewal of a burnt out cheap winding and not even with a "mocking" electric motor, but with an expensive command apparatus (KA), which includes all this as a "monolith" that cannot be disassembled.

A complex unit is replaced entirely, no one cares about the client's financial expenses. It is not surprising that the owner of a deteriorated washing machine seeks to repair it on his own, regardless of time or lack of experience.

But L1, which only needs to be rewound, is nothing more than a coil (Fig. 1a) of a multi-pole electromagnet, mounted on an axis and which is the rotor of an electric motor. You should also consider other factors that complicate the repair. In particular, there is a gear at the end of the rotor. Of course, the ED also has a stator - a kind, stamped one. The electric motor is attached to the controller (Fig. 16) with three pins entering the holes in the spacecraft body and slightly flared from the rear side.

When disassembling this unit, make sure that the current-carrying conductors are not disconnected from the terminals. This precaution is dictated not only and not so much by the hassle of restoring inadvertently opened contacts, as by the difficulties in finding the disconnected terminals themselves.

Before removing the ED body, it is advisable to apply control marks on it and on the spacecraft body, which will subsequently make it possible to correctly assemble the entire structure with a new L1 wound independently. By inserting a screwdriver into the gap between the disconnected units and slightly pressing it, you can separate the motor from the controller and get the burned-out winding. But this must be done carefully so as not to lose the overrunning clutch - a small plastic part located between the ED body and the anchor.

The biggest inconvenience is that the winding is filled with plastic. And you need to make a lot of effort to, having removed all unnecessary, preserve the frame itself with minimal damage.
If this does not succeed, then you will have to glue the new frame according to the dimensions of the old, standard one (see Fig. 1a). And as a starting material, use a thin getinax or fiberglass. Dense electrical cardboard - press-board is also quite acceptable.

The factory (burned out) coil is wound with a very thin wire. Reproduction is absolutely the same, probably makes no sense. Moreover, the small thickness of the standard winding wire was most likely the cause of the failure.
A new coil is wound (until the frame is filled) with PETV2-0.14 wire. The conclusions are made quite strong and flexible, for which they use a multi-core MGShV or its analogs. Otherwise, the ends of L1 may break under the influence of strong vibration loads arising from the operation of the washing machine. For the same reason, long, sagging conductors should not be left loose.

Since the resistance of the new L1 is much lower than that of the previous one, which had a nominal value of approximately 10 kΩ, the repaired ED is connected through a current-limiting RC circuit (Fig. 2). The capacitor and resistor are attached (eg with insulating tape) to the wiring harness suitable for the controller. This is done taking into account the necessary vibration resistance and mechanical strength, characteristic of units that are negatively affected by intense vibrations during operation. Particular attention is paid to ensuring the proper reliability of electrical connections.

We have to take into account other "nuances" as well. In particular, the pins of the ED body are slightly rasped before assembly, and then riveted to provide the necessary strength to the former "monolith": the engine-commander. Of course, we must not forget about the timely installation of the overrunning clutch in place.
A self-repaired engine works just as well as a new one, ensuring the normal functioning of the controller and the entire washing machine.

The emerging emergency is aggravated by a powerful heater. The 10-ampere current consumed by it is switched directly by the sensor - temperature relay TNZ type DRT-6-90. Perhaps the latter is designed for such a load, but it seems that it does not have any safety stock. Operation in an extremely heavy current mode leads to sintering of the sensor contacts, and the heater does not normally turn off when the water reaches a temperature of 90 ° C. Hence, the unacceptable overheating of the tank along with its contents. In addition, the contacts of the command apparatus themselves also become unreliable.
The listed troubles can be avoided by changing the heater connection diagram by introducing the VS1 triac into it (Fig. 4a).

Since when working on the latter, significant power is dissipated, it must be installed on a radiator with a heat-emitting surface of about 500 cm2. It is advisable to choose the triac itself with a margin of current and maximum operating voltage, because it will have to work at a fairly severe temperature regime, when the environment often warms up to 90 ° C. In addition to ТС122-20 (ТС122-25) indicated on the schematic diagram, less powerful semiconductor devices can be considered quite acceptable here. For example, TC112-16 triacs of groups 7 (12).

In any case, the triac is mounted on a radiator, which is screwed with two M5 screws to a 4-mm fiberglass plate. And that, in turn, is installed on the bracket (holder) of the main engine. Accordingly, two holes MB are made in the holder for this purpose (Fig. 46). The radiator is securely isolated from the engine housing. And this is important, because the voltage between the case and the radiator can reach up to 220 V.
An additional 510 ohm resistor has a power of 2 W. For its desoldering, special racks are provided, fixed on a dielectric plate.

Video (click to play).

The entire structure must be designed to work in conditions of high vibration and temperatures, up to 90 ° C when boiling linen. Requirements for connecting conductors: cross-section (in terms of copper) - not less than 1.5 mm2, fastening - strong, tightening in the terminals - reliable, ensuring proper electrical contact.
A washing machine with such an improvement looks no different from its standard counterparts. She has been working reliably for me for more than seven years.

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