Do-it-yourself vertical zanussi washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vertical zanussi washing machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

People buy washing machines with top loading much less often than with front loading - this is a fact.

  • The tightness of the parts of the machine makes it difficult to disassemble
  • Increased vibration during spinning
  • On some machines it is not possible to level the rear feet
  • Corrosion of the top cover from moisture
  • Spontaneous opening of the drum flaps in case of imbalance
  • Narrow and deep, and fits perfectly into confined spaces in the bathtub, closets or kitchen
  • No need to bend over to load the laundry
  • Ability to interrupt the program and add laundry
  • Child safety. Control panel location.

Features and nuances for self-repair of vertical units:

The device contains the same elements (pressure switch, water intake valve, drum, tank, control board, pump, and so on).
The axis of the drum is structurally made on two bearings; a self-positioning sensor is sometimes located on the tank (fixing the drum with the flaps up).

We will show the dismantling of units using the example of Electrolux:

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1.From the sides, using a screwdriver, release the control panel
2.Pull the plastic panel up and slide towards you
3. We tilt at a small angle towards ourselves to dismantle the wires from the board connectors
4. Take out the panel

Image - Do-it-yourself vertical zanussi washing machine repair


To remove the electronic control module, disconnect the remaining wires and unscrew the screws shown in the figure.
For quick and correct assembly, take pictures of the connection points of the wire loops.

Image - Do-it-yourself vertical zanussi washing machine repair


To remove the water inlet valve, disconnect the rubber hoses from the clamps and dismantle them.
Detach the wires and from the outside press on the holes to push out the valve.

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To remove the side panels, unscrew a few screws, do not forget to save the washers for grounding the case.
Bend the wall from below with your hand and slide it down.

After removing the two side panels, access to the screws for dismantling the front panel appeared.

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To remove the NTC sensors and self-positioning the DSP drum, it is enough to remove the right wall and dismantle them.
  • Frequent malfunction - there is no way to change the program .:

Example - Hotpoint Ariston ARTL 1047.

Many "craftsmen" sin that the control module is to blame for everything. But no!

It is enough to unscrew the two screws from the back and remove the control panel.

This very cracked handle is the culprit. Use the metal ring (the plug from the antenna for example).

By squeezing the plastic handle, the ring will prevent programs from skipping.

  • Blown up top of the Indesite vertical, Ariston:
Video (click to play).

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001 - control knob 002 - white on-off / reset buttons 003 - white control panel 004 - bitron switch 005 - function keys 007 - display
008 - cover handle 010 - dispenser unlocking lever 011 - dispenser hook spring 012 - disengagement button dispenser 016 - cover support
018 - partition with shock absorber 021 - door interlock device 022 - white dispenser 023 - siphon cover 026 - control panel wiring 027 - 8-pos. potentiometer

There is an opinion that two drum supports instead of one are good.

This is not the case, and in the case of "vertical" it is just a forced engineering decision. The service life of the drum bearings does not increase for a minute.

If the screws are hard to loosen, heat them up with a blowtorch.

Use a special grease for oil seals - Litol-24, TsIATIM-221, SHRUS-4M, etc.

On "Kandy", in order to change bearings, you need to disassemble the whole machine to the screw! And what is the wild tightness in the depths of the "vertical". Sometimes you have to do everything literally by touch.

2. Remove the cover from the top of the machine

We remove the metal protective strip, which is fixed with self-tapping screws.

This will allow us to remove the back iron cover and gain access to the drum and motor.

We disconnect the chips from the motor and be sure to sign each one so that we do not confuse the contacts later.

We remove the drum from the hanging springs. Further, in order to get to the bearing, you will need to remove the shaft (motor drive), which is unscrewed with a head with an asterisk. The shaft sits very tightly, so you have to make some effort to remove it.

Next, we remove the tank and knock it out of the bearing using a chisel.

So we got to the most important thing - the inner bearing and the oil seal, which most often deteriorate in washing machines. They are changed as a set. The cost of one oil seal is approximately $ 1. Bearings are slightly more expensive at $ 2 apiece.

When knocking out a bearing, be sure to use a metal washer. The outer bearing is knocked out from the inside.
Thank you for preparing the material for the following video:

Image - Do-it-yourself vertical zanussi washing machine repair

It is no secret that in many apartments the bathroom is small and there is practically no space for installing a washing machine. In this case, a top-loading washing machine is perfect. It takes up little space and can be installed in even small rooms.

However, vertical machines, like everyone else, can break down over time. And some malfunctions are peculiar only to washing machines of this type. How to repair a vertical washing machine with your own hands will be described later in the article.

Many malfunctions of vertical machines are also relevant for frontal ones. However, top-loading machines also have faults that are unique to them.

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These breakdowns are associated with the design features of the machine and the location of the units. And the main feature of the repair is access to the internal elements of the vertical washing machine by dismantling the side panels.

All of the following types of leaks can be eliminated without disassembling the machine body:

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Drain filter leaking... In this case, it is necessary to check the condition of the seal, and also to check the tightness of the filter. If the drain filter is dry, then go to the top cover.

Deformation / wear of the upper door seal... If a puddle appears under the machine, then first of all we check and repair this particular rubber seal. When removing the control panel of the machine, you can notice a coating of rust on the body.

Such a leak can cause serious problems such as repairing or replacing expensive parts. Therefore, we eliminate the leak as soon as possible.

In this case, you do not need to change the entire seal, but only put rubber in the place of the leak. As a result, the seal will rise slightly and, therefore, the tightness will be restored.

It should be noted that dismantling the control panel is a fairly simple task. To do this, unscrew the screws on the sides.

The next step is to dismantle the side panels. To do this, unscrew the screws located on the back wall. Next, you need to pull off the bottom edge a little, and then move it down and back. When the side panels have been removed, the front can be removed. After all, there will be access to the screws with which the front wall is fixed. As a result, access to the internal units of the machine will be obtained. Next, we are looking for leaks inside the washer.

Checking the water pipe connection at the filler valve... If the connection is not reliable, then we carry out repairs with our own hands - we dismantle the tube, lubricate it with silicone, and then put it in its original place and tighten the clamp.Next, we check the integrity of the entire rubber tube.

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We inspect the rubber pipe connected to the washing machine tank. If there are traces of smudges, then we carry out repairs - we dismantle the branch pipe, seal it with silicone, and then install it in its old place.

Check the reliability of the drain hose and drain connection... If there are traces of smudges, then we carry out similar repair actions.

You should also check the condition of the rubber cuff located at the top.... We check the fastening of the clamp holding it back.

Check tank for leaks... The screws with which the tank is connected could loosen over time. In this case, we tighten them, but not too much, so as not to collapse them. A small hole may also appear in the tank body of the machine. It should be carefully soldered.

Water can also leak from under the drum bearing oil seal... In this case, most likely, we also replace the bearing.

This may be due to an imbalance in the drum of the machine. Such a malfunction of the machine can lead to serious consequences.

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The opened doors will come into contact with the heating element, and this will lead to a breakdown of the latter. The drum will block and may be damaged. Damage to the tank and drum may require a complete replacement.

But this is, of course, an extreme case. If only the heating element is out of order, then it can be easily replaced with a new one. The process of replacing this element is carried out in the same way as for front-end machines.

Bearings can also become unusable. Replacing bearings in top-loading machines is slightly different from the same process for front-loading washing machines.

The drum of machines with vertical loading is supported on two semi-axles with bearings. These bearings are located on the outside of the washer tank. When replacing them, first of all, we disconnect all wires. Then we dismantle the pads located on the sides of the drum of the machine. Calipers with bearings are located under these pads.

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First of all, we replace the bearing located on the side where the pulley is missing. Next, remove the caliper. The thread on this side must be right-handed, so we unscrew it counterclockwise. After dismantling this element, we replace the oil seal and bearing.

On the reverse side, you must first remove the drive belt. When the belt is removed, dismantle the pulley, as well as the grounding block.

On the reverse side of the caliper there is a left-hand thread. This means that you need to unscrew it clockwise. We clean the places of installation of new bearings, and then we lubricate. Next, the calipers are installed and assembly is performed.

In some cases, it may be necessary to disassemble the machine's tank. Then we unscrew the screws with which the cover is attached, and then carefully separate it at the soldering points. Reassembling the tank is done in the same way as for front loading machines.
The rest of the maintenance and repair work on top-loading machines is carried out in almost the same way as for front-loading washing machines.