Do-it-yourself repair of activator-type washing machines

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of activator-type washing machines from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If you decide to repair the washing machine yourself, first remember if you know the basic techniques for working with mechanisms and electrical circuits. In order for the repair to be carried out correctly and without unpleasant consequences, you should have documentation for the car, a universal set of tools and everything for working with electrical circuits. Remember to work with electrical equipment. Therefore, be sure to unplug the washing machine before starting work. It is also advisable to move it so that during disassembly and assembly you do not have to look for a place to place parts and assemblies, as well as a tool.

As a rule, a malfunction occurs as follows:

Fault analysis makes it possible to correctly diagnose and, using the instructions below, correctly eliminate the problems that have arisen.

In this article, we will look at what to do if the activator is worn out. How to remove it from the washing machine and replace it according to all the rules so that the semi-automatic machine will continue to serve like new.

Activator washing machines are relatively simple, but their parts wear out as often as automatic machines.

An activator is a disc located on the side of the wall or at the bottom of the tub, which rotates during washing and mixes the laundry, "activates" the washing. There are small blades on the outside of this plastic disc.

Activators may vary in size and design, but the task is the same - to move the laundry in the tub.

Modern automatic washing machines also have an activator installed inside the drum. It's called a rib punch and looks like a barrier. His tasks are similar - to break the lumps of linen and shake it so that the quality of the wash is as high as possible.

Video (click to play).

Another purpose is an additional stiffener.

There are two types of cars: with a vertical and horizontal activator. The activator of the semi-automatic washing machine, which has an additional spinning tank, also has a horizontal arrangement.

When disassembling such machines, there are a lot of technical nuances. Let's consider each case separately.

Among these machines you can find the following brands:

Before removing the activator of the semiautomatic washing machine, disassemble it. To do this, you need to make a key with which you can unscrew the part.

Why do you need a key and why can't you buy it? It's hard to explain, but Soviet manufacturers designed the machine in such a way that each activator needs an individual key. Fortunately, it is not difficult to make it.

Let's consider everything on the example of the common brand "Baby". Take:

pipe (15 cm longer than the diameter of the activator body);
drill 6 mm;
2 bolts;
2 nuts.

Drill 2 holes in the pipe, 95 mm apart. Insert the bolts there so that another 1-1.5 mm are visible from the other side, secure with nuts.

Now this "key" can be used to remove the activator.

Remove the part in the following sequence:

Remove the plug from the side of the machine.
Turn the activator by hand so that the holes in the impeller and the housing are aligned.
Block the motor rotor with a screwdriver.
Insert your hand-made key into the activator body and carefully unscrew the part.

Attention! Where to turn - to the right or to the left - is not known for certain. It all depends on the brand and model of the washer.

After you have removed the old activator, take a new one and assemble the equipment, proceeding in reverse order.

If you removed the activator not to replace a part, but to completely disassemble the body, continue to disassemble. How to disassemble the Malyutka washing machine, we told in previous articles.

The activator rotates due to the belt drive, as in automatic washing machines. Removing the Akivator from them is just as easy:

Unplug the washing machine.
Loosen the bolts that secure the electric motor.
Remove the drive belt from the pulley.
Remove the nut that holds the pulley.
Knock out the stopper.
Remove the activator.

When replacing the activator of the washing machine, do not forget that there should be a distance of no more than 2 mm between it and the tank, and an axial offset of no more than 0.5 mm. Shim the washer to adjust the part.

Their difference is their size and capacity: they can wash up to 2.5 kg of laundry per load. The metal body is painted and has a rectangular shape, and the activator is located on the side. When repairing washing machines of the activator type SM-2, you need to proceed in the following sequence:

Unscrew the back cover and set aside.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove the bolt that secures the pulley.
While holding the activator, remove the pulley.
Remove the required part.
Reassemble the washing machine in reverse order.

All automatic or semi-automatic machines that do not have a drum, we used to call activator. But some Deo models also have a drum.

Consider how to remove the edge of the washing machine drum step by step:

There is no need to remove the drum. It is enough just to remove the rim: move the clips aside and remove.
Unscrew the nut that holds the activator. The mount is located at the very bottom of the tank, so it will be more convenient to work with a socket wrench.
After removing the nut, pry the part with a flat screwdriver and remove with the nut and washer.
Buy a new original part. Replace, secure with nut.

Important! Find a partner before repairing your washing machine. It will hold the drum while you unscrew the nut to prevent it from rotating. It is possible to jam the drum with a bar, but this is unsafe for the rotating mechanism.

If you do not know how to replace the rib punch, then do not hesitate - even a beginner can do this task. Just follow our guidelines:

Arm yourself with stiff wire or spring.
Bend the tip into a hook.
Insert the wire into the hole on the fin punch, push it down and pull it towards you - the part should easily detach from the latch.

Read also: Fm transmitter DIY repair

You don't need a tool to install a new fin punch:

Feed the part up a little, and then put the counterpart on the hooks.
Next, tighten the hooks with an awl, passing it through the holes.

Any of the listed works can be carried out without the help of a specialist - with your own hands and without a special tool. If in doubt, use the advice from the video:

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Many in the country or in the villages still use activator-type washing machines of Soviet-era models (Minivatka, Fairy, Hope, Azovye, Baby, Riga, Alma-Ata etc.). In these machines, the motor is controlled by a cyclic time relay. The most common are relays RVTsM, RVTs-6-50, RVR-6... Over time, these relays wear out the clockwork and the group of contacts. There are cases of arc striking between adjacent contacts. In all cases, further operation of the cyclic relay is impossible.

Of course, when repairing a washing machine, you can bypass all service centers, bazaars and find the same or similar relay and replace it.But you can go the other way, replacing the failed relay with a control unit built on a microcontroller. The use of a microcontroller makes the control unit more flexible. I went this way too. Developed a scheme

wrote a program for the microcontroller with such time cycles as the client wanted. Namely: 20 cycles of 1 minute with pauses between them of 20 seconds.

The circuit is very simple, built on a microcontroller PIC12F675... Almost any transistors with reverse conduction can be used. In my case - KT817G... Relay I applied firms OMRON with powerful contacts.

In washing machines, two types of motors are used, respectively, they have different connection schemes. This unit will work with any engine by connecting the contacts of both relays accordingly. Both options are shown in the diagram. Some washing machines use a simple timer that does not allow the direction of rotation of the motor to be changed. By using this device on such machines, the quality of washing will increase.

In the washing machine being repaired, a cyclic relay of the RVTsM type was installed, it looks like this

I didn't find a single inscription on the engine; three wires come out of it. 10μF 600V capacitor.

I assembled the circuit on a circuit board and placed the entire device on a panel removed from a typewriter

A small demonstration of the device

The machine rotates the blades with water, but does not rotate with the laundry. The machine is located in Africa, there is no service. Can the malfunction be corrected at home.alexVai wrote:
The machine rotates the blades with water, but does not rotate with the laundryStrong phrase Image - DIY repair of activator type washing machines

Is the spin centrifuge not spinning?

BV wrote:
Check the belt.

It may not be there; often the centrifuge was driven by a separate engine. X, Z, in general, come on foty (S)

Does not twist the laundry in washing mode. I can't take a photo. I'm in Moscow, but my daughter has a car in Africa.

alexVai wrote:
Does not twist the laundry in washing mode.

In the washing mode, the activator is spinning (that garbage that looks like a saucer with ribs

)
The centrifuge heats the laundry during spinning. As I understand it, there are 2 tanks, or am I not catching up with something?
PS: I started to catch up

The activator spins when the laundry is not loaded, i.e. without load. does not rotate with linen, is it from?

If everything is so, then look at the belt tension, and check if the activator shaft is jammed on the bearings (let the docha remotely check, of course

The device of activator-type washing machines is quite simple, it would seem that there is nothing to break in it. However, the parts are subject to physical wear and tear, and a certain moment comes when the question arises of how to replace one or another part in such a machine. In this article, we decided to consider the activator of the washing machine, the device of this part in different models of machines and how to replace it correctly.

If you ask this question to users of semi-automatic washing machines, they will answer that an activator is a rotating disc on the bottom or wall of the machine's tub that mixes the laundry during washing. We will only add that the blades are located on the outer side of the disc, which is made of plastic. In shape and size, such activators can be different, but their main purpose is the same - to set in motion the contents of the tank.

A modern washing machine also has an activator. A bit strange, but true. In fact, this is a drum rib, as a rule, it is a plastic element that looks like a barrier. It is attached to the inside of the drum, the task of the rib punch is to break and shake the lumps of laundry and thus improve the quality of the wash.

Note! Such an activator also has another function, it plays the role of a drum stiffening rib, protecting this part from damage and strengthening it.

Small washing machines, designed for washing 1-1.5 kg of linen, were in almost every Soviet family. Today they are used by summer residents.Repair of such a machine by a master in most cases is not reasonable, since it can cost half the cost of a new such machine. Therefore, users very often try to fix equipment with their own hands. And I must say that most people do it very well.

Small-sized machines are divided into two types. In some, the activator is located vertically. These machines include "Samara", "Desna". The second type of machines has a horizontally located activator, for example, "Malyutka-425M", "Feya-2" or "Mini-Vyatka". In semi-automatic machines with wringing, the activator is also located horizontally. When parsing such a machine, it also has its own characteristics. Let's consider in turn how to remove and replace the activator in different models of cars.

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Cars of this type include "Baby", "Samara", "Otrada". The insides of such machines consist of the main elements: a tank, a cover, a body, an electric motor, a thermal relay, capacitors, and an activator. There is no drum in the activator machine, the function of the drum will be replaced by the activator, which rotates the water in the tank.

To remove the activator, you need to disassemble the machine itself and prepare the key that you need to unscrew the activator. Let's consider making such a key from a cut of a water pipe with our own hands using the example of the "Baby" typewriter. The pipe should be 150 mm longer than the diameter of the activator body. With a 6 mm drill, 2 holes are made in the pipe, the distance between them is 9.5 cm, and the holes will be located symmetrically relative to the center. Then they take two bolts and insert them into the holes, the ends of the bolts should stick out by 10-15 mm. Finally, fasten the bolts with nuts.

Now we will describe how to unscrew the activator:

We take out the cork in the side of the machine.
We turn the activator by hand so that the hole in the housing clearly coincides with the hole in the impeller.
We take a screwdriver and insert it into the motor rotor, thereby jamming it.
We insert the homemade key into the activator body and unscrew it.

Important! The activator on different machines is unscrewed both clockwise and counterclockwise.

After removing the activator, take a similar one and assemble the machine in the reverse order.

SM-1.5 machines include "Fairy", "Ivushka", "Mini-Vyatka". Their peculiarity lies in the fact that the rotation of the activator is carried out thanks to the belt transmission. It is not difficult to remove the activator in such machines. Let's list the procedure for the example of the Mini-Vyatka machine:

After disconnecting the washing machine from the mains, remove the pallet (marked with 1 in the figure).
Loosen the bolts holding the engine.
Remove the drive belt (34) from the pulley (32).
Next, you need to unscrew the nut holding the pulley (21).
Now, after knocking out the stopper (20), remove the activator (25).

When installing a new activator, one should not forget that the distance between the tank and the activator should not exceed 2 mm, the axial displacement should not exceed 0.5 mm. To adjust the installation of the activator, lay a washer.

Washing machines of this type differ from the previous ones in large sizes and the ability to wash up to 2.5 kg of laundry. The body of a rectangular typewriter is made of metal coated with paint. The activator is usually placed on the side. To remove and replace it, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

Unscrew the rear housing cover and remove it.
Remove the belt from the pulley.
Remove the bolt holding the pulley to the activator shaft.
Hold the activator with one hand and remove the pulley.
Press the shaft together with the activator disc into the washing machine tank.
Get the activator.
Assemble the machine in reverse order using a new activator.

As a general rule, automatic and semi-automatic washing machines that do not have a drum are called activator, since the water in the tank is driven by an activator, and machines with drums opposite the activator do not have, since they work with a rotating drum. But there are exceptions to this rule - Daewoo top-loading washing machines. They have both a drum and an activator. How can you remove a broken activator on such machines and replace it with a new one?

Dismantling the drum is not required in this case. To remove the activator, you will have to remove the drum rim, otherwise it will interfere. We move the plastic clips to the sides and remove the rim.
Now you need to unscrew the nut holding the activator. It's right at the bottom of the drum, so you need a socket wrench.
Having unscrewed the nut, we pry the activator with a screwdriver, and then we take it out together with the nut and washer.
We acquire a new original activator, put it in place of the old one, and then fasten it with a nut.

Note! While unscrewing the nut holding the activator, ask someone to hold the drum so that it does not rotate. Of course, it is possible to jam the drum with a wooden block, but in this case there is a risk of harming the rotation mechanism.

Replacing the fin is not difficult, almost anyone can cope with this task. What do we have to do?

We take a hard wire (or spring).
We bend its tip with a crochet.
We insert the wire into the hole of the rib punch, press on it and push it towards ourselves.
The rib punch should slide off the retainer and slide off.
The new drum finisher is put on by hand. We feed the part slightly upwards, and then we put the mating part on the hooks.
Now the hooks need to be tucked in, for this we take the awl, thread it through the holes in the rib punch and tighten the fixing hooks.

Summing up, we note that you can replace the washing machine activator with your own hands, without the involvement of a specialist. The main thing is to buy an original spare part and take into account all the advice of specialists. Of course, if you are not friends with the technique and doubt your abilities, invite a master, and he will do everything in a few minutes.

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Small-sized non-automatic washing machines do not have a squeezing device and are designed for washing 0.75. 1.5 kg dry laundry. It is advisable to use them for washing small items (baby clothes, handkerchiefs, socks). During operation, the machine is placed on a chair or stool. Washing takes place under the influence of intensive circulation of soap solution, which penetrates between the layers and pores of the matter without mechanical effect on it. The circulation of the soap solution is created by vortex movements excited by the activator. Thanks to the swirling motion of the solution, the laundry is continuously rotated in different directions, which contributes to its even and thorough washing. The water after washing is drained by gravity, and the spinning of the laundry is done manually or in an autonomous centrifuge.

By design, small-sized machines can be divided into three categories:

non-automatic with a vertical arrangement of the activator ("Baby", "Desna", "Samara");

non-automatic with horizontal and bottom location of the activator ("Fairy", "Mini-Vyatka");

automatic (Tefal).

A typical non-automatic small washing machine (Fig. 1) includes a tank, a lid and a casing in which the electrical equipment of the machine is installed: a motor, capacitors, a protective thermal relay.The tank, lid and casing are made of plastic. The disk activator is located on the side inside the tank. The activator is driven by an electric motor.The shaft of the activator is connected directly to the shaft of the electric motor, due to which the rotational speed of the activator is equal to the rotational speed of the shaft of the electric motor. The electric motor is fixed to the tank wall with screws covered with electrically insulating sealing putty. On the side of the cover there is a power switch for the machine, and in the bottom of the tank there is a hole for draining the detergent solution. The drain connection can be closed with a special plastic plug or connected to the end of the drain hose, the other end of which, when the machine is running, is fixed in the slot at the upper edge of the tank. There is a special mark to control the water level in the tank. Lid prevents liquid splashing during washing
and rinsing the laundry and is attached to the tank body with latches.Technical characteristics of small-sized non-automatic washing machines are given in table. one.The semi-automatic washing machine does not give up its positions, despite the popularity of fully automatic models. This can be explained by the fact that not in every house the power grid can provide the load of an automatic machine, and not all private houses have a water supply system. Semi-automatic washing machines with an extraction are widespread in rural areas. Mini washing machines with spinning and draining are very popular among owners of small apartments, who have very little space in the bathrooms for installing additional equipment.A semi-automatic washing machine, especially equipped with a centrifuge and several necessary modes, will be an excellent solution if there is no access to the central water supply system in an apartment or private house. It is better to choose semi-automatic machines for installation in the country. They save water, do the job well and are easy to use.Semi-automatic machines do not have complex microcircuits, many modes and a heating element, so repairs are rarely required, and besides, it is cheaper.A semiautomatic washing machine can be of two types:Depending on the number of tanks, the machines can be:

With one tank for both washing and rinsing. There is usually no spin function in such machines, so the laundry will have to be squeezed out by hand. The main advantage is the price, the car can be purchased for less than 1 thousand rubles.

With two tanks, one of which is for washing clothes, the other for spinning.

Drum washing machines can consist of one or two tanks. A “washing machine” with one tank is a bit like an automatic top-loading machine. The main disadvantage of this design is the small functionality of the machine: nothing can be placed on top of it, which is inconvenient for large apartments. Image - DIY repair of activator type washing machines

Washing machines with two drums work on a different principle. Washing takes place in one tank, then the laundry is transferred to another tank, where spinning takes place. It is less convenient to use such a machine, moreover, machines with two tanks are heavier than conventional ones.

At the bottom of the tank is a disc, or activator, driven by an electric motor. Some models are equipped with a centrifuge that allows you to squeeze out the laundry. There is a special compartment at the back of the machine, where the laundry is fed through the rubber rollers. The main advantage of using semiautomatic machines is their cost-effectiveness, since they can be washed several times in the same solution.

Activator washing machines are the preferred option, primarily because they operate almost silently, thanks to a heat-resistant plastic tank. Convenient in operation and modern semiautomatic washing machines with extraction and heating of water. They can be connected to the water supply. Activator machines can wash up to 7 kg. linen. Activator machines can be with or without reverse. In some machines (without reverse), the laundry rotates only in one direction during washing, while in others (with reverse) in both directions.

Even new models of semiautomatic devices are inferior in functionality to automatic machines, for example, in order to rinse clothes, you will need to change the water. Semi-automatic machines, in turn, require less energy and water consumption, which is an advantage of this type of device compared to automatic washing machines.

The most popular is the domestic-made “Feya” automatic washing machine, which has good functionality, affordable cost and compactness. Loading type - vertical. The main disadvantage of the machine is that you can wash no more than 2 kg at a time. linen.

The machine lives up to its name: it is very small, making it easy to fit even in a tight bathroom. The disadvantage of the machine is class F, which means a low washing class. Not all Fairy models have a spin. The machine has relatively few functions, and the design can be considered outdated by modern standards.

The Assol XPB45-255S washing machine allows you to wash almost 5 kg at a time. linen. The depth of the tank is 38 cm. The centrifuge can hold less, up to 3.5 kg. The control is carried out mechanically.

“Eureka” is the most “advanced” model. It differs from many semiautomatic devices in the way it operates. It has one tank and is equipped with a step-by-step cycle switching mechanism. The capacity is small - only 3 kg. But at the same time, the machine has a compact size, is equipped with a drain pump, and it can also be considered automatic with a stretch.

The EvgoEWP-4026 model has a small size, which makes it possible to install it even in a small room.

Saturn machines are in great demand. They are represented by a wide range of models. Saturn machines are economical and can be installed in any room where there is electricity. One of the popular models - ST-WM1635R - has a shallow depth (only 36 cm).

The principle of operation of semi-automatic drum machines is simple. First, you need to heat the water to the desired temperature. Since most powders work effectively at temperatures within 40 degrees, you do not need to heat the water too much. Some "advanced" models are equipped with a water heater.

The heated water must be poured into the tank, the powder must be poured into the same place and the linen must be loaded. Then set the wash time. Some machines have different operating modes, most often standard and delicate. Then the machine will wash and wring out the laundry by itself. Usually 15 minutes is enough for washing.

The washed laundry must be taken out of the machine, the dirty water must be emptied and cleaned for rinsing. Remove clean laundry again, drain the water from the machine. Then put the laundry in the same tank (or in the second - depending on the machine design) for spinning. The spin cycle is usually up to 5 minutes. After the end of the spin cycle, the items are taken out of the machine. Then turn on the "Drain" mode. If the machine is not connected to the sewer network, the water is collected in a container and poured out. Before starting the machine for the first time, it is worthwhile to study the manufacturer's instructions, since some devices require special operating conditions.

In general, semi-automatic machines are less convenient than automatic machines. The main inconvenience is due to the fact that during washing it is impossible to leave the house for a long time, because you need to take out the laundry, pour out the water, etc. Semi-automatic machines are inconvenient to operate in summer, when hot water is turned off for a month, and sometimes for a longer period. In such cases, you will have to look for another way to heat the required amount of water.

Some semi-automatic machines have a delicate wash cycle, but 2 wash modes are still not enough. Semi-automatic cars have much more advantages. They allow you to save space in the room due to vertical loading, make it possible to control the entire process. In semiautomatic machines it is possible to set a short washing time (1-2 minutes), while in automatic machines the minimum washing time is at least 15 minutes, depending on the model.

For many users, semi-automatic cars are convenient in that they do not have sensors, many buttons and modes in which you can get confused. Therefore, this option is preferable for the elderly. Due to their simplicity, semiautomatic devices are more reliable and break much less often.

When choosing a car, it is important to consider several key factors, namely:

energy class;
washing class;
maximum volume;
material;
price.

Energy class is indicated by Latin letters. “A” means high efficiency of the washing machine. However, the price of such semi-automatic machines can be high. More budgetary options are class B and C machines. The washing class is also indicated by Latin letters, from A to G (the best and worst washing quality, respectively). The lower the class of the machine, the worse it will cope with pollution, and vice versa.

The maximum volume of the car should be chosen taking into account the needs. So, for a summer residence, it is enough to purchase a machine that can wash 3 kg of laundry at a time. For permanent use, in a city apartment or a private house, it is better to purchase a larger device.

The machine usually uses metal (stainless steel) or plastic to make the tank. Semi-automatic machines with a metal tank are more durable and reliable, but they also cost more. This option is the most common. Cars with a plastic tank have their advantages: they are inexpensive and practical.

The design of semi-automatic washing machines is quite simple, so breakdowns are not so common. There are a number of problems in the operation of the washing machine and ways to eliminate breakdowns.

If the engine does not turn on when switching the mode, the reason may be a malfunction of some parts (step-down transformer, time relay, starting or thermal relay, capacitor, starting brushes). If a breakdown is found, the defective part can be repaired or replaced with a new one. Sometimes the spin mode does not turn on due to broken wires. In this case, you need to check the wiring diagram.

If the engine starts and hums, but the spinning does not start, you need to check if the centrifuge brake is pinched and, if necessary, adjust its position. This may be due to the tank being overloaded with water or linen. Then excess water or part of things is removed.

The rotor does not rotate, although the engine is working properly. Diaphragm bushings may be worn and will need to be reinstalled. Another possible cause is that the laundry is unevenly spread. This problem is easier to fix.

If water flows out from under the machine, then the reason may be:

Damage to the tank or the rubber sleeve for the tank seal or the drain valve. Sometimes the cause of the breakdown is the weakening of the fastening - they need to be checked and secured well.
Pump malfunction or leaks between valve and body. Damaged parts are replaced. Loose fasteners must be secured.

If the centrifuge does not work, although the electric motor is serviceable, the reason may be a broken drive belt. In this case, you need to remove the cover and adjust the tension. If the machine does not rotate the motor, then the malfunction may lie in a malfunction of the power cable, outlet, or the motor itself. If there is no possibility of repair, the engine must be replaced.

If the centrifuge is filled with water from the tank, this usually occurs when the bypass valve becomes clogged. For repairs, the machine must be disconnected from the mains, remove water and clean the valve that removes water from the centrifuge tank.

It is not recommended to repair the washing machine yourself, as you need to have the appropriate skills to do this. If you still need to carry out the repair yourself, you should first arm yourself with universal tools and documentation.

First of all, the machine must be disconnected from the mains so as not to receive an electric shock. Place it in such a way that there is enough space not only for the machine itself, but also for all parts and tools. Disassembly and assembly should be carried out in accordance with the instructions.
How to repair a burst washing machine tub.

You turned the switch and saw that the centrifuge in your washing machine is not working. There are several reasons for the problem:

malfunction of the protective sensor;

timer problem;

brake pads;

motor winding.

In some models, for example, Saturn or DAEWOO (Daewoo), a sensor is installed on the door covering the centrifuge tank. It is designed to disable the start of the device when the door is open. To access this sensor, you will have to remove the top panel of the washer.Under it you will see a sensor with two contacts that you need to wipe cotton wool with alcohol... Do not scratch or sand the contacts with a knife. Check sensor operation. With the cover closed, the contacts should close.The timer in most semiautomatic washing machines (SMP) is located under the top panel of the unit. You can repair it, cleaning the contacts.There can be a lot of tips on how to remove the panel, due to the design features of machines from different companies.After removing the top panel, you will see a device that resembles a clock with gears. Inside it you can see contacts that can burn out during long-term operation of the unit. Soot appears on them, which does not transmit current.Disassemble the timer carefully. The mechanism cover also serves for attaching gears to it. After unscrewing the three screws, it must be removed so that the gear wheels do not fall out. If you are afraid that you may not remove the cover carefully, then it is better to photograph the mechanism. After opening the cover, you will see contacts. As with the sensor, they must be wiped clean with alcohol.How does the braking system work in semi-automatic cars? The brake pads are installed under the centrifuge and provide braking when the door is opened. It is connected to the lid by means of a cable. When the cover is opened, the cable is stretched and the brake pads wrap around the rotating part of the engine - the centrifuge is braked.Open the back wall of the SMP and check the tension of the cable, the lack of contact of the pads with the engine when the door is closed. It is the touch of the brake pads that sometimes prevents the electric motor from starting.A common cause of centrifuge breakdown is burnout of one of the electric motor windings. You can check this with a tester (measuring device):

We find the ends of the wires coming out of the electric motor. Usually there are three of them: the first is common, the second is leading to the starting winding, and the third is leading to the working winding. The common wire is marked with the letter “N” (often blue).

We set the resistance test on the device, and measure it between the blue wire and one of the two, for example, the red one. If resistance readings are present on the device screen, then everything is in order with this winding.

We continue the same steps with the other pair, blue and white wires. We measure the resistance and look at the readings of the device. If there is no resistance, then the winding is burned out. And the reason that the centrifuge does not work in your washing machine lies in malfunction of the electric motor.

In such cases, the motor is rented either for rewinding, or a new one is bought and installed.It is difficult to list all the reasons for the breakdown of the spin system. Each model of machines may have its own nuances. Do-it-yourself repair of a semiautomatic washing machine will save you a lot of money. Here are the most common errors in the spin system:

The engine makes a humming noise, but the spin does not work. This means that it jumped off or belt brokeconnecting the pulleys of the motor and centrifuge.

When the rubber bushing of the diaphragm is worn out, a large backlash prevents the spinning from starting. Required bushing replacement.

If, after checking the motor with the device, you are convinced that it is in good working order, then the reason may be faulty thermal relay, or a step-down transformer. These parts are replaced with new ones without repair.

Check for winding on the motor shaft small thingsthat could fly out during spinning and get inside the machine.

Unevenly laid laundry in the rotor causes the centrifuge to beat and prevent it from starting.

If the activator and spin motors do not work, check fuseinside the machine behind the rear wall. It will not be superfluous to disassemble the electrical plug and check the contacts.

The modern NSR cannot be called a simple device. Some malfunctions can only be repaired by a qualified technician - a master. But, carefully following the above tips, slowly and carefully performing the required actions, you can repair the washing machine with your own hands! Despite the fact that a semiautomatic machine is often bought for a summer residence or other places where there is no running water, for example, in the countryside, it also requires careful handling. Follow the rules of prevention, and the machine will serve you without breakdowns much longer!

Video (click to play).