In detail: do-it-yourself repair of ardo 800 washing machines from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Modern automatic washing machines Ardo Tl105S, Ardo 800 (400, 1000, etc.), are typical representatives of high-tech devices of this type, designed to facilitate the everyday side of our life.
But no matter how high-quality any technique would be, sooner or later, users have problems using it. That is, the machine or some of its individual functions stop working in the standard mode for this equipment. To be honest, most of the ACM breakdowns occur due to the fault of the users.
Those who operate the machine for washing clothes in violation of its operating conditions. But be that as it may, the washing machine has broken down and you need to take some action to resume the operation of the AFM. Let's say right away that the choice here is not great. And there are only three solutions. And one of them is quite exotic. So! In the event that your washing machine is an Ardo company, model Tl105S, Ardo 400, 800, 1000 or any other, is out of order, you can take the following actions:
Throw away the spoiled machine in a landfill and buy a new one.
Call a professional repair specialist for this type of equipment from the service center.
Do-it-yourself repair of the Ardo Tl105S washing machine.
Let's leave the first two options and take a closer look at the topic of repairing the Ardo 800 washing machine with our own hands, as closer in spirit to people who are confident in themselves and have the same hands (and head).
Examples of 2 different types of malfunctions when repairing an Ardo Tl105S washing machine with your own hands
Video (click to play).
According to statistics, about 80 percent of AFM breakdowns are attributed to the mechanical component of the device. And only 20, for the so-called electronic brains of the washing machine. It is for this reason that, as an example, the manuals on how to repair an Ardo washing machine with your own hands were taken - the electronic control module (ECM) of the ASM and the bearings from the drum drive shaft.
In all automatic washing machines of the latest generations, EMU is responsible for the following operations:
Soaking dirty things (linen).
Washing itself in several modes.
Rinsing.
Provides control of temperature and liquid level in the AFM.
Drainage of waste, dirty water and the like.
Thus, in the event of a breakdown of this kind, self-diagnostic testing of the AFM should be performed to identify a more specific place or part (all latest generation machines are equipped with this function) .After the test, the device will display information with an error code, that is, indicating the type and location of the breakdown.
For an Ardo module, this is the code F13 or F14. The problem of identifying a malfunction of the bearings of a washing machine is even easier to solve. This will be reported to you by a roar and similar noises emitted from the drum when it is running in the washing or spinning mode.
Before talking about the steps that should be taken to repair the module of the Ardo washing machine with our own hands, we will differentiate them as far as possible. So, if ACM indicates the error code - F13 or F14, then you can:
Check and replace the control module fuse.
Completely replace the entire EMU.
Call the master or take the car to the service.
Unfortunately, there are 4 options, namely, partial repair of the module with the replacement of its individual parts, for a non-professional in radio electronics - no. We remind you that the AFM of today is a computerized device and the module is the main, main and expensive part of it.Thus, an amateur's ride to fix the EMU with his own hands will only lead to the final and complete breakdown of the washing machine. But to completely replace the damaged control module is a quite feasible task for a person with properly growing hands. And it takes place in this order:
We find and carefully study all the available information related to the replacement of the electronic module of the Ardo washing machine.
Disconnect the faulty unit from the power supply.
We release from the fasteners and remove the upper panel of the ACM Ardo, in order to provide access to the control module.
We release the printed circuit board from the fastening elements.
We disconnect the electric wires going to it.
We remove the board and replace it with a new ECU.
We return (assemble) the machine to its original technical condition.
We make testing.
Having determined the place of possible breakdown, by default these are the bearings located on the shaft of the drum of the washing machine, we proceed to the preparation of the repair. Note that the repair itself is completely uncomplicated, but requires a certain endurance. For the reason that in order to get to the part that needs replacement, you will have to disassemble almost the entire machine.
First of all, we purchase new bearings and oil seals that are fully suitable for the AFM of your brand and model. You can find information about this in the technical data sheet of the device. After the necessary spare parts are purchased, we prepare the tool that you need to carry out the repair:
Open-end wrenches and caps.
Phillips and straight end screwdrivers.
VD-40 grease or its analogs.
Hammer.
A metal pin (rod) of small cross-section, 30 - 40 centimeters long.
Pliers.
Silicone sealant.
We start repairing the washing machine:
We release the fasteners and remove the panels of the machine in the order described in its operating and repair instructions. The purpose of these actions is to gain access to the washing machine tank.
Having reached the tank, we remove it, having previously freed the drum from the connections and wiring.
We divide the tank into two parts, in connection with which we get access to the shaft at our disposal.
We release the screw that secures the pulley.
We knock out the shaft with a hammer (carefully).
We replace the worn out bearings located in the rear of the drum by carefully knocking them out of the bore.
We replace the bushing oil seals.
We assemble AFM units and elements in reverse order.
We connect to electricity and make a test run of the device.
Do-it-yourself Ardo washing machine repair on video
Read the recommendations for repairing the Ardo washing machine from the master!
The manufacturer (translated from Italian home appliances) is Antonio Merloni.
Front loading standard - FL models. Drying - WD.
30% - blockage of the drain path, wear and damage to the pump:
We open the loading door, on the sticker we determine the model of the machine.
Unscrewing the drain filter from the front at the bottom, clean it.
We change the pump, which is located at the bottom right on the back side.
We loosen the clamp on the drain pump branch pipe.
We check the pump, clean it - in case of a malfunction, we change it.
Over time, mechanical wear appears on the shaft. The impeller dangles and does not pump out water well.
20% - malfunction of the electronic control board:
We look at the power supply and the level of constant voltages (5 and 12 V) at its outputs. If there are no voltages at the IP output, check the corresponding elements - a power switch, a power filter, a power transformer T1, a rectifier (D11-D14), a U1 microcircuit.
They are used in typewriters with an asychronous drive motor and a mechanical controller.
Models A1000PL, A1000XCZ, A1000XPL, WD1000PL, TL1000X, etc.
The wear of the heating element increases with “hard” water.
Overgrowing with scale (scab), it gives off heat poorly and burns out.
You need to pull out the gum and not the heating element. Since pulling out the heating element, you can wedge the gum.?
This is important to avoid further leakage under the seal.
10% - wear of brushes of the collector motor, loosening of contacts, breakage of the drive belt
Remove the belt, unscrew the screws and remove the engine. The motor has two brushes, each attached with two screws. We unscrew the screws and remove the brushes.
Inspect the board motor power supply terminal and ground wire.
Very often, the contacts are oxidized from moisture and the machine gives an error because of this.
Each brush is installed in a brush holder. It can be taken apart into two halves. Pay attention to how much the brush protrudes.
This size should be at least 1 cm. The best option is 1.5 cm. After that, we assemble everything and put it back in place.
Having jammed the pulley, unscrew the upper shaft clamping nut counterclockwise.
If the oil seal is not filled with a specialized grease and the cross bushing is not lubricated with it during assembly, the oil seal will wear out very quickly, no matter what quality it is, this has been proven in practice.
It is not worth saving and improvising with lithol, grease and other lubricants, get better specialized lubricants that are used to lubricate oil seals.
Standard sizes of Ardo bearings and seals:
This applies to modern technology - since 2000 (models AE800X, AED1000X, TL1OOOEX).
Thanks to it, you can diagnose (control module DMPU):
Close the hatch (without linen). Set the program selection to 30 ° C until it clicks. The temperature regulator to 0 ° C. Turn on. The drum rotates at 250 rpm. To check the buttons half load, additional rinse and others, press them. The spin speed increases from 250 to the maximum provided for this model. In the absence of additional functions, press the spin button.
Indicators will blink when a malfunction is detected.
E00 | E01 - Draining. Clean the drain filter and drain connections. E02 - The water is not supplied or drained off correctly. The drain hose may not be positioned correctly. E03 - Water is not drained from the tank, also the drain time has exceeded 3 minutes. F2 - Temperature sensor. F4 - It is issued on the display if there is no water drain. A possible cause is a drain pump. F5 - The water is drained and instantly poured. The problem is usually in the water supply filter. F6 | F9 | F12 - Electronic module. F8 - The water in the tank has exceeded the available level. Suspicion of an aquastop valve. F13 | F14 - Critical.
Breakdowns are rare, usually associated with improper operation. Italian technology is distinguished by its high adaptability and versatility.
How to carry out a service test equipped with the MINI-SEL board:
Control panels look different
The steps to enter the check mode are shown in the figures. - move the program selector knob to the 6 o'clock position - press button 4 - ENERGY WASH and, holding it down, press the POWER button. After that, the CM should go into test mode.
With temperature control knob:
- turn the program selector knob to the 6 o'clock position - move the temperature selection knob to the 9 o'clock position - press and hold the ENERGY button (for at least 6 s), at the same time turn on the power supply of the CM with the POWER button.
After that, the CM should go into test mode.
Turning the selection knob, we check the devices:
Knob in position 1 (autotest) - NTC temperature sensor (sensor circuit - for open or short circuit), pressostat, display (if any), door lock and main function buttons on the control panel
2. First, the cold water inlet valve is opened until a signal is issued from the water pressure sensor. The filling of water takes place through the compartment of the dispenser for the PREVIEW.
3. First, the heating element turns on and the water in the tank heats up to 60 ° C. Then the CM drum starts to rotate in a cyclic mode at a speed of 45 rpm (as in a washing mode).
4. The drain pump (pump) turns on. At the same time, the drum starts to rotate as during spinning.
5. Within 10 s, the hot water filling valve is turned on (if this CM model has it). At the same time, the CM drum starts to rotate.
6. The fan and heating element of drying are included (for models with drying)
The test mode is exited by turning off the power with the POWER button.
Elimination options: 1. It is necessary to check the presence of water in the water supply. It is trite, but very often the reason for the appearance of an imaginary malfunction is such funny things.
2. The inlet hose is squashed or clogged. We check visually for the absence of compression. We unscrew the hose from the washing machine, turn on the tap and see if the water will pass through? Of course, care must be taken to ensure that the water does not drain onto the floor. If the water does not come out, we find and remove the blockage. The hose with a leakage valve after the protection has been triggered will have to be replaced with a new one.
3. The filler mesh on the back of the washing machine is cleaned. The mesh is quite fine and often clogged with rust or other particles from the tap water. The filter can be easily removed with pliers and cleaned thoroughly.
4. It is necessary to make sure that the filling valve is in good working order. It is located just behind the filter. The valve becomes accessible after removing the top cover of the washing machine. Perhaps, the wires of its power have come off or frayed. To check the functionality, the valve itself can be removed and connected to the voltage indicated on its body. Should open. If it does not work, you will have to change the valve to a new one.
5. The problem may be related to a faulty water level sensor. Or, in another way, the pressure switch. You can also find it under the top cover. It is removed quite easily. It is held in place by screws or latches on the body of the washing machine. We check the integrity of the wires and their connection to the sensor. A tube comes up to the pressure switch from below. It may be clogged. The simplest test for the performance of the sensor after removing it is to blow into its tube. If you hear a click, the pressure switch is most likely working properly. Otherwise, you will have to change to a new one. It is important not to mix up the wires when installing a new one.
Common causes and solutions: 1. Again, about the banal - you need to make sure that the sewer pipe is not clogged. Maybe the car just has nowhere to drain the water. Of course, this is possible with machines with a permanently connected drain. We also check the drain hose of the washing machine. It should not be kinked or twisted. In principle, you can disconnect the hose from the sewer and check if water comes out of it when draining? If it does, we clean the sewer system. If not, check the hose for clogging. Problem still exists? We look further.
2. The drain filter is clogged. Simple, but the most common reason for the lack of a drain. The filter is located at the bottom of the washing machine under the door or decorative panel. It is a screw plug screwed into the machine body using a standard right-hand thread. Accordingly, the filter is unscrewed counterclockwise. Do not forget to place a tray under the washing machine to collect the flowing water. After removal, the filter is cleaned of impurities. You will need to remove the excess in the place where the filter was installed. Next, reverse the process and check the drain. Most often it helps.
3. Blocked or faulty drain pump.A common problem for Ardo washing machines is the blocking of the pump due to foreign objects entering it. Various coins, buttons and other items left in the pockets of the washed clothes, getting inside the drain pump, prevent it from performing its functions. A symptom of a blockage of a working pump - at the moment the drain is turned on, the pump hums, tries to expel water, but cannot. Another option is that the pump has become completely unusable. In any case, he will have to be removed. In Ardo washing machines, it is very easy to access the drain pump from the bottom of the machine. They have no bottom or are covered with an easily removable plastic strip. It is enough to lay the car on one side and the access is open. Before removing, you can check the operation of the pump with a multimeter. Further, the clamp of the rubber pipe is loosened and it is separated from the pump. The same procedure is for the drain hose. Power wires are disconnected. It remains to unscrew the screws that hold the pump and remove it. A serviceable pump is disassembled. And foreign objects are removed from it. The defective one is replaced with a new one.
4. The lack of drainage can be caused by incorrect operation of the pressure switch. It simply may not send a signal to the control module to drain. We have already discussed what needs to be done with the water level sensor above.
2. A rare, but possible breakdown is a malfunction of the temperature sensor. It is checked by measuring the resistance at room temperature and when heated with hot water. A non-working sensor is simply replaced.
3. It is necessary to make sure that there is no "sticking" of the contact group of the heating element relay on the control module.
