In detail: do-it-yourself repair of washing machines ariston margarita from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
When a malfunction is detected in the Ariston Margarita washing machine, the controller rotates clockwise. The ON / OFF indicator flashes and indicates an error code.
We look at the blinking indicator and count the number of blinks.
For example, error F02 is two series of flashes with a frequency of 1 flash per second and with a pause between bursts of 4 seconds.
Decoding and troubleshooting error codes Ariston Margarita
But sometimes, the error itself is not shown. For this, there is a diagnostic key that is inserted into the board connector and starts a service check. Not everyone has this key, so we will not dwell on the methodology.
Remove the top cover, unscrew the panel fastening screws, dismantle the detergent drawer as shown in the figures.
Removing the command device will not be too difficult. Pick up the handle with a thin screwdriver and remove it. Next, unscrew the fastening screws.
Removing the cuff and replacing it if necessary - pick up the spring clip with a screwdriver and remove it. With the tool on top, unscrew the inner clamp screw.
The service life of Margarita, if used correctly, is 15 years or more.
This is explained by the build quality (Italy), reliable element base (mechanical control type)!
- The EVO-I based control module is used:
The software in the processor ROM is written once at the factory.
In case of breakdowns in the microcontroller, the board must be replaced.
The models differ in the type of "flashing" non-volatile memory chips (EEPROM), which can be flashed in case of failures.
- Replacing the EEPROM memory chip:
Of course, you must first make sure that the actuators are in good working order and call them with a tester.
It is necessary to carefully examine the suspicious microcircuit. Unless, of course, we do not count the cases when the defect is already obvious (a bursting case, the presence of carbon deposits on the terminals, etc.), sometimes external damage can be insignificant.
Lack of short circuit on power supply. Sometimes there may not be a complete short circuit, but simply a very low resistance of the input (s) of the power supply relative to the “common” one. In this case, you will need to have the documentation for the microcircuit itself or at least the switching circuit available.
Video (click to play). |
Functionality check. Here everything is much more complicated: many microcircuits have many outputs and a malfunction of at least one of them can lead to the inoperability of the entire device.
In the EVO I module, we replace the memory chip with a similar (93C86) serviceable one with uploaded firmware for the desired model.
Now about the most vulnerable places (due to high wear and tear and improper operation):
drain pump, motor brushes, water inlet valve, bearing assembly, heating element.
When doing repairs, you will need to make detailed disassembly and assembly of the washing machine. Therefore, in order to properly disassemble, assemble and repair the Ariston Margarita 2000 washing machine, you need to follow the disassembly procedure.
The top cover is latched to the control panel and attached to the back of the machine with two screws. To remove the cover, unscrew the two fixing screws and slide the cover back (Fig. 1).
- Using a small screwdriver as a lever, separate the front door seal.
- Having released the seal, put it inside the drum.
- Tilt the machine back (under no circumstances lay the machine on its side, just tilt it, as there is a danger of water getting on the electrical connectors) and substituting some kind of stable support under it.
- Use thin pliers to release the door ring (fig. 2).
- Remove the seal.
The new seal is placed exactly on the flange of the tank, making sure that the seal is well fixed. The small tab at the top of the seal should point vertically (fig. 3).
Using a screwdriver, remove the spring ring that secures the sealing rubber to the body and remove the sealing rubber of the door. Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the two screws. Having assembled a new part, the sealing rubber is installed in its original place.
- Remove the top cover.
- Remove the handle and the cover of the controller (KA).
- The screw is unscrewed from the KA handle and the KA mechanism is removed.
- Opening the detergent dispenser drawer, press down at the point shown in fig. 4, and the drawer is removed.
- Remove the two loading door screws and the two control panel screws.
- Remove the potentiometers using a Phillips screwdriver.
- Pry off with a screwdriver and release the pushbutton switches.
- Remove the pushbutton switches, remove the ON / OFF indicator and the door lock indicator.
- Unscrew three screws fastening to the KA panel and separate it.
When assembling, all operations are performed in the reverse order.
- Remove the top cover.
- After removing the handle of the controller, remove its mechanism (see "Control Panel").
- Disconnect the terminal block of the controller.
- Having released the latch on the program disk (Fig. 5), the command device is moved up.
- The command apparatus is removed by moving it inside the machine.
When installing the controller, make sure that its guides are correctly aligned with the support panel (Fig. 6).
The rest of the spacecraft installation operations are performed in the reverse order.
- Remove the back panel.
- Unscrew the screws securing the module and remove the module.
- Disconnect all connectors and terminal blocks.
- Remove the screws that secure the frame and handle subframe.
- Remove the handle base from the casing.
- Replace the handle.
When replacing the handle, all operations are performed in the reverse order.
Using a 13mm socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts and remove the counterweight (fig. 7).
After removing the washing machine tank, unscrew 8 screws and remove the counterweight (fig. 8). When removing the counterweight, you can pry it with a screwdriver at the points of attachment to the tank.
- Remove the back panel (item 23, fig. 16) and the drive belt.
- Using a socket wrench, unscrew the screw from the pulley, keeping the pulley from rotating (Fig. 9). It should be borne in mind that the screw is set on the sealant, and it is not easy to unscrew it.
- Using two screwdrivers as levers, the pulley is removed.
For a more secure tightening of the screw, it is recommended to apply a drop of Loctite 270 to the screw thread.
You can turn on the washing machine no earlier than three hours after installing the pulley.
- Remove the back panel (item 23 fig. 16).
- Tilt the machine forward with some kind of stable support. Care must be taken not to damage the electrical components of the control panel and micro locks.
- Remove the drive belt.
- Disconnect the electric motor. To do this, take out the terminal block and disconnect the ground wire (Fig. 10).
- Unscrew the two 8mm hexagon head screws.
- The electric motor is lowered and removed from the machine body through the open rear panel (fig. 11).
Three rubber parts and two plastic feet are used when installing a new electric motor.
The operations for installing the electric motor are performed in the reverse order.
- Remove the back panel and remove the electrical connectors.
- Using a screwdriver, remove the sensor pos. 7 (fig. 12)
- Unscrew the 4 screws (if there is only one screw, then after removing it, turn the pump casing).
- Disconnect hoses and tubes.
- Install a new pump.
- Carefully tilt the machine to the side (do not lay the machine on its side).
- Using a 10mm socket wrench, unscrew the nut that secures the shock absorber to the body (Fig. 13).
- Pushing the shock absorber along the rod, it is pushed out of the machine body.
- Using two wrenches, 17 and 15mm, loosen the screw that secures the shock absorber kit. Remove the shock absorber.
When installing a new shock absorber, all actions are performed in the reverse order.
- Remove the top cover, back panel, control panel, water filling unit with solenoid valves, pressure switch, door seal on the side of the body, drain pump, shock absorbers and disconnect all electrical components and parts (resistors, electric motor, etc.). When disconnecting the connectors, sign and label them)
- Remove the tank from the body and place it on the floor with the pulley up.
- Dismantle the pulley.
- With a socket wrench, unscrew 8 screws that attach the cross to the tank (Fig. 14).
- With two screwdrivers, grasping as shown in fig. 15, pull the spokes out of the holes.
When installing the cross, use a rubber hammer to protect it from deformation and damage.
In fig. 16 shows the cabinet and decorative components of the AL109X washing machine. The list of components is given in table. one.
Washing machines Ariston from the Italian manufacturer can be called "a model of reliability and quality", but they sometimes require attention. In some cases, repair of Ariston washing machines can be done by hand, and a specialist needs to be involved only in the most difficult cases.Within the framework of this article, we will analyze the frequent malfunctions of automatic washing machines of the Hotpoint Ariston brand, study the "symptoms" of such breakdowns and decide how to properly make an independent repair.
The vast majority of breakdowns of Ariston washing machines are associated with their operation. This is recognized by the masters of service centers for the repair of washing machines. Sometimes we are talking about frankly incorrect operation, the user regularly makes gross mistakes, which lead to breakdown. But most often, the cause of the breakdown is the operating conditions, which the user either did not know about, or guessed, but did nothing. A striking example is hard water, which can completely disable the "home helper"!
So, what are the most common breakdowns on Hotpoint Ariston washing machines? We decided to compile a kind of breakdown frequency rating. When compiling the rating, we rely on statistical data provided by leading service centers for the repair of washing machines.- Blockages. The blockages themselves can hardly be considered breakdowns; rather, this is the cause of various breakdowns. Nevertheless, it is with blockages that craftsmen have to deal with most often, and it is strong blockages that most often paralyze the operation of various Hotpoint Ariston washing machines.
- A heating element. Teng is in second place in our rating. Despite the fact that the heating element itself is of high quality, low-quality hard water does its job. Over time, the scale layer destroys even the best part and has to be replaced.
- Water pump. In third place is the drain pump or pump. This part fails quite rarely and in most cases the reason is wear from prolonged operation.
- Filling valve. Even less often, the filler valve fails. More precisely, not even the valve itself, but a rubber gasket. Over time, rubber dubs and begins to let water through, and this causes a malfunction. The gasket itself costs a penny, but the services of a master to replace this gasket are by no means cheap.
- Bearings and seals. In fifth place are the failures of bearings and oil seals. On Hotpoint Ariston washing machines, this is a rarity, but if such a breakdown appears, you cannot continue to operate the machine.
Important! The electrics and electronics of the Hotpoint Ariston washing machine are deliberately not included in the rating, since it rarely breaks down.
If you have problems with blockages on the Hotpoint Ariston washing machine, do not rush to call the master, everything can be repaired quickly, with your own hands. How do you know that you are dealing with a blockage? The main sign of a blockage in the drain system is the idle operation of the drain pump, that is, it hums, but the water does not leave the tank. Usually, this trouble manifests itself after the end of the wash, the machine cannot drain the waste water to start rinsing and freezes, or it drains the water too slowly.
A strong blockage can be found in several places:
- in the drain pipe, between the tank and the drain filter - this happens less often, since the pipe is quite thick;
- in the drain filter - there is a blockage most often;
- in the pump - in Ariston washing machines, blockages in the pump are rare, since an additional filter is installed in front of the drain pump;
- in the drain hose - blockages rarely occur, mainly in cases where the hose was installed incorrectly.
How to quickly remove a blockage? First of all, you need to check and clean the easily accessible places of the washing machine, where a blockage could occur. First, we unscrew the drain filter, which is located on the Ariston machines at the bottom right under the narrow panel. Place a cloth on the filter before unscrewing it as water will drip off. Remove all debris from the filter and then screw it back on.
Next, it is important to check the drain hose and drain. In a number of situations, a banal blockage in the drain pipe can force the user to contact a machine repair specialist, when it was more correct to contact a plumber. And if everything is in perfect order, then you will need to disassemble the machine, clean the pipes and the pump. To remove the pipe, you will need to loosen two clamps, and to remove the pump, you will need to disconnect it from the sensors and unscrew the two fasteners.
If any malfunction occurs, the Hotpoint Ariston "washing machine" gives an error with a specific code displayed on the screen. It is very important to recognize the error codes of Ariston washing machines correctly, because this is a direct clue indicating the cause of the breakdown.
A broken filler valve "symptomatically" is quite difficult to confuse with other breakdowns of the Hotpoint Ariston washing machine. When the filling valve stops blocking the water, water begins to flow into the washing machine tank by gravity, even if the "home assistant" is turned off from the network.
If you hear the characteristic murmur of water being poured and drained from the tank when the machine is turned off, be sure this is a valve.
To check the filler valve, remove the top cover of the Hotpoint Ariston by unscrewing the two fasteners. The valve is located at the junction of the inlet hose with the machine body. First of all, we check the gaskets, if they are intact, then you need to measure the resistance of the device, and for this you will have to use a multimeter. We install the probes on the contacts of the filler valve and check. The meter should read approximately 30 to 50 ohms.A defective filling valve should be replaced with a similar one; self-repair is not possible. The replacement itself is done very quickly, we unscrew the old valve from the body and screw in a new one, not forgetting to connect the sensors. It is worse if the pump is out of order, because it is a rather expensive part.
A faulty pump gives itself out during washing, when the machine should drain the water, but it does not, while the pump either does not make any sounds at all, or it hums, but the murmur of the drained water is not audible.
Note! Strictly speaking, these symptoms are superficial and they may indicate other problems (for example, with electronics), but this should give you the idea to check the pump first.
In the Hotpoint Ariston washing machine, it is at the bottom and can be reached through the bottom. It is better to check and replace the drain pump by a specialist, but you can do everything yourself, the main thing is to thoroughly study the progress of work.
The heating element is an important part of the washing machine, which is responsible for the temperature of the water in the tub, and therefore for the quality of the wash. If the heating element is faulty, the wash either does not start at all, and the system generates an error, or the wash is performed in cold water. Both should prompt you to check and replace the heating element in the Hotpoint Ariston washing machine.Checking the heating element of the Ariston washing machine is not difficult at all. It is necessary to unfold the machine, at the bottom of the rear wall there is a service hatch, which is attached to the clips and several screws. We unscrew the self-tapping screws, and wring out the clamps with a screwdriver, after which the cover will be removed. Behind the lid, under the tank, you will see two large contacts with the fastener in the middle - this is the heating element. We unscrew the screw, and then we begin to pull the ten on ourselves, pulling it out with swaying movements.
Note! Before pulling out the heating element, it is a good idea to measure the resistance with a multimeter, perhaps the device is in good working order and does not need to be touched.
As we have already noted, bearing and oil seal failures are the most rare malfunctions of Ariston washing machines. However, if this happens, then urgent action is needed. It is not difficult to recognize such a breakdown. When the bearing is destroyed, the moving elements begin to emit unpleasant sounds, the shaft begins to rub against the bushing, which leads to a depletion. If you do not take any measures and continue washing, this can lead to the fact that the drum begins to play and damage the tank.
To prevent your favorite washing machine from ending up in a landfill, you need to contact a specialist when such sounds appear, or try to change the bearings yourself. If you are determined to do the work yourself, study the information offered on our website. Otherwise, with such a complex repair, it is not surprising to make serious mistakes. The main difficulty is that in order to get to the bearings, you need to disassemble the entire washing machine, along with the tank.In addition, it will be necessary to correctly remove the old bearings without damaging the bushing, and then install the new ones correctly so that repeated repairs are not required. Without the proper skill, not many can do self-repair, so before starting work, think about delegating it to a specialist.
In conclusion, we note that the repair of malfunctions of Ariston machines can theoretically be done by hand, especially if you have the time and patience. But all the same, in order to avoid mistakes and unnecessary expenses, it is better to turn to a specialist, because “a miser pays twice”!
Washing machine Hotpoint Ariston of the Italian manufacturer is reliable and of high quality. But some parts of the washing machine sometimes become unusable.You can, of course, send it to a service center for repair, but in order to save money and with skillful hands and a smart head, you can independently repair an electromechanical household appliance.
Do-it-yourself repair of the Ariston washing machine is easy. Follow our instructions for restoring the washer, and your assistant will serve you for many years.
- In the Ariston electromechanical device, the main reason for the incorrect operation of the machine is blockages.
- In addition, the heating element becomes unusable due to the appearance of limescale on the heating element due to hard water.
- The pump can also be faulty due to its long operation.
- Sometimes the filler valve fails due to damage to the rubber gasket.
- In rare cases, bearings and seals have to be changed.
- Electronics almost never breaks down, but we will still touch on the issue of replacing the control unit a little.
It is easy to remove the blockage with your own hands. You need to check the drain filter, which is located on the lower right under the panel.
After cleaning the filter, you will eliminate the cause of the malfunction of the washing machine. Less commonly, the drain pipe is clogged because it is thick.
There may be a blockage in the pump, but rarely, because there is an additional filter in front of it.
The drain hose will only become clogged if you have not installed it correctly.
Check the drain, there may be a blockage in it too. Disassemble the unit, pull out the branch pipe by loosening the clamps, flush it. Pull out the pump by unscrewing the fasteners and disconnecting the sensors.
Signs of a pump breakdown:
- The drain pump hums, but the water does not drain.
- The machine may stop when the system is running.
- Water flows out slowly.
Repair of the pump of the Ariston washing machine must be done as follows:
If the filler valve is broken in Ariston, then water constantly flows into the washer, even when it is not working, it is disconnected from the network.
To check the filler valve, you need to unscrew the fasteners and remove the top cover. The valve is located where the drain hose connects to the body of the electromechanical unit.
Check the gaskets first. If they have not lost their performance, measure the resistance of the valve. Put the probes on the contacts of the filling valve and check the resistance, whether it is optimal (from 30 to 50 ohms).
If it is less or more than the set value, it means that the water intake valve is not working. To replace it, you need to unscrew the old valve from the body and screw in a new one. Be sure to connect the sensors.
If the heating element is faulty, then it is imperative to replace it. Its breakdown is indicated by the fact that the water does not heat up or washing in all programs takes place in cold water. Sometimes the machine gives an error and stops.
To replace the heating element, the rear wall must be removed. There are two contacts under the tank with a fastener in the middle. This is ten. Measure the resistance of the heating element with a multimeter.If the resistance is within the normal range, then there is no need to change the heating element - it is serviceable. To remove the heating element, you need to unscrew the screw in the middle and pull it towards you with swinging movements.
The water may not heat up also due to the fragile connection of the wires to the heating element, which arises from the strong vibration of the washing machine. Water heating may also be absent if the temperature sensor is faulty.
Take a tester or multimeter and check the resistance of the sensor when cold and hot. If the resistance is the same, then it is broken, requires replacement. The resistance should be different.
The high-quality and durable material from which the drum of household appliances is made also becomes unusable, because solid foreign objects get into it, which can damage the unit, forming cracks on it.
The plastic rib inside the drum can deform. Remove the drum to replace it.To remove the drum yourself, you need the following set of tools:
- a set of screwdrivers, especially a Phillips screwdriver and a slotted nozzle are needed;
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- hammer;
- hexagons of different sizes.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the bolts from the back, front, and top walls, and then remove the panels themselves.
Dismantle the powder container. Use a slotted screwdriver to remove the module. It is not necessary to unscrew the control unit to the end, the main thing is that it does not interfere with the removal of the drum.
Remove the hatch cuff, pull out the lower bar by unscrewing the screws. It is necessary to dismantle electronics, shock absorbers and other parts from the loading tank.
Remove the drum from the device and disassemble it. Remove the screws holding the two sides of the drum. Pry the oil seals with a screwdriver and remove them.
The bearing in the drum can break and wear. It needs to be replaced. You only need to buy a bearing of the corresponding brand in a specialized store or order it on the official website of the Ariston washing machine, possibly purchase it in an equipment repair workshop.
Use a metal rod and a hammer to knock out the bearings. If they are defective, replace them. If the drum is deformed, replace it with a new one.Reassemble. If the malfunction is in the plastic rib, then you do not need to disassemble the tank. The washer door is removed. A metal rod is taken, the diameter of which is smaller than the holes in the plastic rib of the drum.
The rod is inserted into one of the holes on the rib, the latch is opened with it, the plastic part is removed. A new plastic rib is put in its place. Slide along the groove with the plastic rib until the latch enters the hole and closes.