In detail: do-it-yourself repair of washing machines at home from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The washing machine is no longer a luxury item for modern housewives. Today this "workhorse" is installed in almost every, even the most modest home. But no matter how modern and wonderful household appliances may seem, they still tend to break. The easiest way in such a situation, of course, is to invite a specialist who will quickly fix the malfunction. True, it will not be cheap.
But you can do it differently. It is not so difficult to repair a washing machine yourself. You don't need to have any special skills for this. You just need to carefully understand the structure of the washing machine and understand the principle of its operation. Therefore, if your washing machine breaks down, then, after carefully reading this article, you can fix at least half of the unpleasant situations with your own hands. So let's get started.
All household washing units not only have a similar device, but work on the same principle.
That's all. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about it. To understand why the washing machine broke down, you first need to know exactly when it happened, that is, to correctly determine the node that is working at the moment. Since the principle of operation of all units is the same, the main malfunctions of washing machines of any brand are also very similar. In this article we will try to disassemble them all, well, maybe, with the exception of some very small ones.
If the washing machine shows no signs of life at all, the reason may be ridiculously trivial - they just forgot to plug it in.
Video (click to play).
Also, the machine will not work if the door is open or not closed properly. This is usually signaled by the electronics and the corresponding icon is displayed on the display. The wrong washing program is also one of the common reasons.
If all of the above reasons are excluded, and the washing machine still does not work, the matter may be that the electrical part is out of order. First of all, check the machines on the dashboard, they were probably knocked out by overload.
Everything is fine? Check the outlet to see if it's burnt out? Now inspect the plug, unscrew it and make sure that the contacts are not oxidized and are in working order.
And everything is fine here? Moving further along the wire. You will need to remove the outer panels to check the terminal connections and ring the power cord. Just remember to unplug the power plug before doing this.
If your automatic machine has a mechanical timer, it may be the cause of the breakdown in it. Rotate the knob until you hear the drum spinning. If it works, then the unit is most likely burned out and will have to be replaced.
Another reason the washing machine won't turn on may be a closed intake valve. Make sure it is in the "open" position and that water enters the drum.
There may also be several reasons for this:
Heating element burned out. If this happens, the sequence of processes is lost and the washing does not start. The assembly needs to be replaced.
The belt drive has broken. We'll have to completely disassemble the machine to see this.
The water level or temperature sensors are out of order.
Burnt out processor. The washing machine does not receive any commands and does not understand what it needs to do.
Inlet valve defective. It may not open well or close tightly as a result of a blockage. It is necessary to remove the blockage, and so that the situation does not recur again, install an additional filter at the inlet.
The most unpleasant and expensive reason to repair is a burnt out electric motor. It will definitely not be possible to eliminate such a breakdown on your own, of course, if you do not know how to rewind electric motors.
If the washing machine does not draw water or does it very badly, there may be several reasons for this:
the supply valve is closed;
the inlet hose is clogged or deformed; you need to straighten it and clear the blockage;
the intake filter is coked; to clean it, turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the machine, remove the filter and rinse it under a strong stream of water, and then perform all the steps in reverse order;
the intake valve is clogged and out of order; you need to turn off the water and replace it;
the water level regulator is out of order; when the water level in the drum rises, the displaced air presses on the pressure regulator and the switch is triggered; if the system is clogged or damaged, no water will be drawn.
Another reason why water is drawn into the machine very slowly or does not flow at all may be associated with low pressure in the system. This is not a breakdown and you will not be able to fix it with your own hands. As soon as the pressure in the system returns to normal, everything will correct itself. If this situation repeats regularly, then to eliminate it, you need to raise the pressure in the system. For example, equip a pressure tank in the attic of a private house or under the ceiling of an apartment.
If the washing machine stops during washing and does not finish it, there may be several reasons:
Most often, the washing machine does not spin the laundry because the drain system is clogged. To remedy the situation, you need to clean the filter and remove hair, threads and various small objects that have entered the system.
If it does not help, then the pump may have burnt out and the water from the tank is not pumped out.
When the water drains off normally, and the spinning does not work, then the drive belt is worn out or stretched. To fix the problem, it must be tightened or replaced with a new one.
Check the selected mode, perhaps the wash program includes a pause.
Inspect the drive belt. It probably jumped off or stretched out. Press on the belt to check the tension. Its offset should be approximately 12 mm. If your washing machine is equipped with a tensioner, loosen or tighten the belt to the correct level. In the case when such a design is not provided, the only way out of the situation is to replace the belt.
Pull on the loading door. If the latch is broken or jammed and the door does not close properly, the drum will not work. Open the door and close it abruptly again, press firmly. If all else fails, the lock is broken and needs to be replaced.
Ring the electric motor. It is likely that it burned out.
This malfunction can also be caused by several reasons.
Opening delay. The door of the washing machine may not open because the drum has not yet finished rotating and the washing program has not been completed. One or two minutes after the end of the process, the lock will unscrew itself.
There is still water in the tank. Many washing machines are programmed so that until the water is completely pumped out of the tank, the lock will not open. To open the door, you need to forcibly drain the water and check if the drain filter is clogged. After that, everything should work out.
The interlock switch is broken and needs to be replaced.
Such a malfunction can be determined by the nature of the sound that the machine makes. If you hear uneven metallic ringing, banging, or rattling that stops when the drum stops, it is most likely that small metal objects have entered the machine. These can be coins, nuts, keys that fell out of pockets. (See also: Why the washing machine makes a lot of noise during spinning)
A buzzing sound that becomes quieter when the door is pressed firmly indicates a broken latch.If it is not repaired in time, the door can jam at the most inopportune moment.
A squeal while the drum rotates indicates a slipping of the drive belt. Try to pull it on, everything should work out.
Crackling and knocking during drum operation indicates bearing wear. We'll have to replace the bearing in the washing machine. If this is not done, the shaft can be broken and the repair of the machine will be much more expensive.
In order to determine exactly where and how much it flows, you need to do a simple operation. Dry the floor and place a dry cloth under the machine. Run a short wash cycle without laundry and powder. Examine the rag carefully, you will see from which side you need to look for a leak.
The main reasons for the leakage of the washing machine can be due to: cracks in the hoses, loosening of the clamps, distortion or rupture of the seal on the door, and so on. If all parts of the machine are intact, the reason may be that the sewer is clogged and the water simply has nowhere to go.
First of all, you need to disassemble the machine and inspect the heating element. It is likely that too much scale has formed on it or that it has burned out. In the first case, it is enough to clean the heater from limescale, in the second case, the unit will have to be replaced. (See also: How to descale a washing machine)
If the automatic machine does not heat the water, then the reason may lie in the water level regulator. When the device is broken, the unit simply "does not understand" that there is enough water and it is time to turn on the heating element.
Another likely cause is a broken thermostat. It turns off the heating element even before the water heats up to the required temperature.
The most harmless reason may be choosing the wrong washing mode. See if the switch is in the rinse delay mode. It is also likely that the wash program has stopped due to a lack of electricity - check the plugs.
Another quickly removable reason that water does not leave the washer can be clogging of the filter or drain pipe, as well as its bending. Check and clean these parts and reconnect the clipper.
A clogged or broken pump is another cause of a malfunction. Forcibly drain the water, disconnect the pump, clean it or replace it with a new one.
The next reason due to which the washing machine does not drain the water may lie in the electrical part: any contacts have oxidized, the timer or water level switch is out of order. All these areas need to "ring" and, if necessary, replace the damaged part.
The first reason that the washing machine suddenly starts walking around the apartment is a strong overload. Remove some of the items from the drum and follow the instructions in the future. If there are not very many things, they may have got tangled and strayed into a lump. Untangle the knot and load the clipper more evenly.
If the washing machine jumps or vibrates when spinning even with a small amount of items, then the reason may be a break in the spring holding the drum. When replacing the spring, carefully inspect the counterweights that are bolted to the tank. It is possible that the fasteners are loose and the weights are loose. Correct the situation.
See also - Replacing shock absorbers in a washing machine with your own hands
Also, the machine, which is not set according to the level, "starts to dance". Adjust the position of the washer using the feet. They have adjusting bolts. If they are not enough, just place a few sheets of thick cardboard in the right places.
Our partners, the RemonTechnik service center, are ready to assist in the repair of large household appliances of any complexity. Didn't do it yourself? Seek help from qualified craftsmen.
As you can see, repairing washing machines is not that difficult. But is it possible to make the washing machine break as little as possible? It turns out you can. The most frequent breakdowns of washing machines are associated precisely with improper operation.In order for the unit to serve you as long as possible, you need to follow some simple rules:
carefully study the instructions and strictly follow all of its points;
do not overload the machine;
use special detergents containing a water softener;
once every three months, run the longest wash cycle without clothes, but with a descaler, this will help keep the heating element in order;
carefully check all pockets for small items and debris;
regularly clean filters at the inlet and outlet of the system;
install an additional cleaning filter, this will protect the system from dirt and debris;
after each wash, leave the door ajar and wipe the rubber seal dry;
purchase and install a stabilizer, it will help protect the electrical part of the machine from power surges.
Washing machine: troubleshooting and DIY repair
It is no longer possible to imagine a normal life without a washing machine, which has become an indispensable assistant in everyday life. However, like any device, it can break. It is not necessary to immediately look for a service center, it is quite possible that the malfunction can be found and eliminated by hand.
Diagnosing the problem is quite simple, it is more difficult to eliminate the cause and assemble the device so as not to miss anything. To avoid problems, we will try to put everything on the shelves and explain the procedure.
The main elements of any washing machine are the mechanical part: the engine, drum, belt drive, water supply valve and drainage, cuffs and seals. Next comes a number of sensors: temperature, filling level. Last but not least is the control unit, fully electronic or partly mechanical.
The drum, the calipers that hold it, the calipers with bearings on which it rotates are more susceptible to wear in a washing machine. Over time, seals and seals wipe, water enters the bearing, flushing out the grease and leading to active corrosion. The second option is corrosion of the tank support calipers, usually made of aluminum and capable of crumbling over time.
The second most important group of problems is related to sensors. The temperature sensor is quite stable and problem-free, but if there is a thick layer of scale on it, then its readings are greatly distorted, which leads to overheating of the water during washing and the rapid growth of new scale, problems and breakdowns. The level sensor breaks down much more often. If the chamber, the nozzle from the container or the hose to the sensor become clogged with powder, scale or debris, the sensor stops responding, which can lead to overflow and flooding.
Cuffs and seals on modern machines do not rot or dry out, so they can only be damaged by yourself as a result of carelessness or accident. They cannot be repaired, so only a replacement.
A fully electronic control unit breaks down if the conditions for connecting the power supply and grounding, which are strictly necessary for a washing machine, are violated. In addition, sometimes a defect or a malfunction in the memory of the controller pops up, due to which the normal operation of the device is no longer possible. For partially mechanical control, oxidation of the contacts is characteristic. However, this is also only a consequence of external factors: high humidity, ingress of water or detergent, etc.
If the machine is controlled by a microcontroller, then it is important to pay attention to the service error codes. The decoding of the codes can be found in the instructions or in the service manual, which is quite easy to find on the Internet. Depending on the error code, you can already start repairing.
If the machine is partially mechanically controlled, then you can check its operation according to a simple algorithm by choosing the desired symptom-cause combination from the table:
A washing machine is a common household appliance found now in most apartments and houses.And if it breaks down, it becomes an unpleasant problem that requires an immediate solution.
Calling the foreman, you can fix the machine pretty quickly, but you have to pay for his work. But sometimes, having figured out the possible causes of the breakdown, it is quite possible to fix the problem on your own by fixing the equipment with your own hands. And for this, you should find out how washing machines work, how they work, what breakdowns are most common and how you can repair the device on your own.
The following units are present in washing machines:
Case with panel for program selection;
Detergent dispenser;
Door with latch and seal;
Tank;
Electric motor;
Drum;
Temperature sensor;
A heating element;
Drive belt;
Valves for water supply;
Pump;
Intake valves;
Spring suspension;
Supply hoses;
Outlet hose;
Adjustable legs;
Balancing weights;
Water intake level regulator;
Water collector;
Drain riser.
Almost all devices work according to this principle:
After opening the inlet valve, the required volume of water is poured into the drum. As soon as the water is filled to the level determined by the regulator, the valve closes.
The water starts to heat up. In the absence of a temperature sensor, the heating element is turned off by a timer.
At the same time, the electric motor is switched on, as a result of which the drum begins to rotate in both directions, while its turns occur with a different time period.
The pump begins to pump out the contaminated water, and then clean water is drawn into the drum.
When the engine is switched on again, the laundry starts to rinse at a low speed.
Further, the engine is turned off, and the water is pumped out again, after which the turned on engine picks up speed and the laundry is squeezed out.
You can find out how the washing machine works by watching the following video.