Do-it-yourself Kaiser washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Kaiser washing machine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Image - Do-it-yourself Kaiser washing machine repair

Such machines have built-in diagnostic systems that make it possible to check each operating mode of the unit. They identify certain defects, which makes repair work easier and faster. Repairing a Kaiser washing machine is very similar to troubleshooting other brands of washing machines, but there are still fundamental differences. And they manifest themselves primarily in the most frequent malfunctions.

If we compare the statistics of service workshops, we can conclude that there is a certain number of weak points in the Kaiser machine, which failures hit in the first place. As a rule, the following parts are denied in such a machine:

Image - Do-it-yourself Kaiser washing machine repair

  • the water heater is a problem for every model. Sometimes it occurs due to a factory defect or design features of the machine, but in most cases, the reason is external factors, which include water hardness and the resulting scale, voltage drops, low quality powders;
  • the problem in the waste water drainage system is also typical for any machine, but in washing machines of this brand it is considered quite common;
  • another drawback is frequent water leaks. Hoses and pipes fail quickly enough for many models, but the Kaiser is in the leading positions among them.

In addition, the consumer may face such troubles as a loosely closed hatch, malfunctions in the control board, breakdown of the electric motor, slipping of the drive belt. But such failures are rare and should not be considered typical.

With certain skills, you can repair the washing machine yourself.

Image - Do-it-yourself Kaiser washing machine repair

The machine is equipped with a heating element of standard dimensions. To change it, you need to perform certain actions:

  • disconnect the washing machine from the mains;
  • disconnect the water supply and outlet to the sewer;
  • turn the machine towards you with the back wall;
  • unscrew the four bolts holding the panel, remove it;
  • at the bottom under the tank there will be two contacts with the wires. This is the tail end of the heater;
  • The heating element is checked by a tester. In working condition, it should show 24 - 26 ohms;
  • if the resistance value is different, it is necessary to disconnect the wiring of the heater and the temperature sensor, unscrew the fastening nut;
  • The heating element is carefully removed together with a gasket made of rubber material. It will take an effort here, because the heating element will give in with difficulty. Slowly swinging him, they carefully pull him towards them;
  • a new analogue is checked by a tester;
  • it is installed in the landing groove, the wiring is connected and connected;
  • the back wall is installed in its place and screwed on;
  • now you can test the machine, having previously connected it to the necessary systems.
Video (click to play).
  1. Leaks.

If a large puddle appears on the floor during or after washing, it means that somewhere the water has found a "path" for itself. Before looking for a problem, it is recommended that you protect your and your neighbors' housing from a flood. To do this, turn off the water supply, put more rags under the body of the machine, open the hatch located on the front panel at the bottom right, unscrew the filter.

Image - Do-it-yourself Kaiser washing machine repair

When the remaining water pours out, you can start looking for a leak. We check the hoses first, since this is the simplest event. You will have to inspect the water intake and drain hoses. If one of them is the problem, the replacement is easy.

Another place is the pipes. To identify an internal leak, you will have to disassemble almost the entire machine.The work is not very easy, it is better to seek help from an experienced master. Internal leakage can be caused by a pump, pipes, door cuff, garbage filter seal, emergency drain hose plug, inlet valve, tank.

  1. There is a problem with water intake and drainage.

Such refusals can be in certain situations:

  • the pump responsible for draining the waste water has broken;
  • the drain system is clogged;
  • the water in the water pipes is of poor quality;
  • the in-line filter of the inlet valve is clogged.

Image - Do-it-yourself Kaiser washing machine repair

It should not be ruled out that trivial cases are when the owner simply forgot to open the water supply tap, or when it was turned off. Situations are silly, but they happen from time to time. If the washer hangs, and the error code E 02 appears on its screen, then you must immediately check the water inlet hose, then inspect the inlet solenoid valve. When your machine emits signal E 03, you should check the drain pump. It will probably require a complete replacement or routine cleaning - the result of the inspection will show everything.

Models of washing machines with a display are equipped with an error display function when certain malfunctions and failures occur. Sometimes, knowing what this or that error code means, the owner can fix the breakdown with his own hands without calling a specialist from the service center.

In most cases, the following error codes are displayed:

As soon as any of the error codes is displayed, the washer door locks automatically. The blocking can be removed only after the cause of the failure has been eliminated, or the machine is de-energized from the electrical network. After the power is turned off, the data on the last error signal is saved in the machine. To reset it in memory, after turning on the unit, you must press and hold the "Start" button for at least three seconds.

If you have problems with the bearings or oil seals of the machine, it is necessary to repair or completely replace the unit responsible for controlling the process, it is not recommended to risk it yourself. In situations like this, it is best to invite an experienced craftsman.

Kaiser manufactures a variety of washing machine models that are renowned for their durability. But even the most reliable cars fail sooner or later.

Many people try to repair their Kaiser washing machine in an effort to save money. But, unfortunately, this does not always give a positive result. It often happens that after repairing it with your own hands, the machine needs the expensive help of a specialist.

So that you do not have to purchase a new washing machine, it is better not to risk it and contact a qualified technician.

Order a Kaiser washing machine repair from us and get prompt help at a time convenient for you!

You can fix the machine yourself, because it is very pleasant to do such a difficult job on your own at home. Useful materials will be offered to help you: instructions for diagnosing a washing machine and detailed photo instructions on how to fix a washing machine with your own hands! Repair the Kaiser washing machine yourself!

The build quality, functionality and design ensure the reliability of Kaiser appliances. Nevertheless, breakdowns and malfunctions do occur in these machines too. The main reasons for repairing a Kaiser washing machine are: human error, technical errors, poor water quality. These are faults that do not depend on the manufacturer of the equipment. But still, in the breakdowns of Kaiser products, you can see a certain pattern.

The most common reasons for repairing a Kaiser washing machine are:

  • clogged hoses and filters, resulting in poor spin quality and incomplete drainage. This is a relatively simple breakdown that can be repaired inexpensively and quickly;
  • the control unit and electrical circuits fail.Repair of such malfunctions requires branded spare parts and special equipment;
  • wear of mechanical assemblies and bearings, as a result of which depressurization occurs, water begins to leak and the noise level rises sharply.

Repair of Kaiser washing machines is not much different from repairing SMA of other brands, but given the build quality and design features, this technique has specific points. Each washing machine has its own weak point, which breakdowns "hit" in the first place. But this most often happens not through the fault of the manufacturer and not because of a manufacturing defect, but due to external reasons:

  • Violations of the rules of operation.
  • Power surges.
  • Hard water.
  • Incorrect connection.
  • Substandard chemicals, etc.

Let us consider what the owners of the CM "Kaiser" can face over the years of service of the equipment.

Many models are equipped with an information display, which displays not only information about the mode and time of washing, but also fault codes. If the self-diagnostic system finds a failure, it will issue one of the error codes: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, etc.

Here are the most common codes that users encounter:

  • E06 - water is not drained from the tank.
  • E07 - a leak is detected in the system.
  • E11 - UBL error.
  • E42 - the hatch is blocked.

There are models without a display - then you have to find out about a malfunction by blinking indicators or focusing on your own observations of equipment. By the way, it is difficult not to notice such failures as the lack of drainage, spinning or leakage.

On a note! Now units from "Kaiser" are not on sale, but for many users these machines have served for several years and need to be repaired. Therefore, it can be difficult to find spare parts, especially for such "old ladies" as the Kaiser Avantgarde (Vanguard). We recommend ordering original parts, while calculating the cost of repairs - sometimes it is easier to buy new equipment than to repair old ones.

Do not rush to rush to fix the washing machine! One-time motherboard failure is not uncommon. To exclude it, restart the CMA by turning it off and letting it stand for a while. If after re-enabling the code disappears, then it was just a "glitch" of the module, which may not be repeated again.

Based on statistics from workshops and service centers in the Russian Federation, we have compiled a list of parts that fail first:

  • The most common failure is a faulty heating element. It is difficult to say whether it depends on the quality of the heater itself or too hard water. But the statistics remain unchanged: most of the breakdowns of these units are associated with water heating.
  • Further, the drain and filler systems take over the baton. But in fairness, it should be said that these problems are typical for any other SM, for example, "Electrolux" or "Atlant".
  • "Bronze" goes to leaks. They can occur both in pipes and hoses. This partly depends on the quality of the parts, but water and equipment maintenance also play a role.

Important! Top-loading Kaisers may have top cover problems. The electronic board, transmission belt, electric motor are also at risk, but these problems are much less common than the three above.

We propose to consider self-repair of the above three common malfunctions of the Kaiser CMA.

The operating instructions for Kaiser machines usually indicate that a 280 mm heating element with a power of 2000 watts is used as a heater. Please double check this information if the user manual has survived.

The part can be easily purchased from spare parts dealers or ordered online. The cost of the heater will cost you around $ 20 (plus shipping). If you decide to hire a master, you will have to pay extra for work in the region of several thousand rubles. If you decide to save money, proceed as follows:

  • Disconnect the CM. Shut off the water supply and disconnect from the sewer system.
  • If the model is built-in, remove it from the niche. Expand.
  • Unscrew the fasteners that secure the rear wall of the machine and remove it from the body.
  • Below you will immediately see a pair of impressively sized contacts, to which the wiring goes - this is the visible part of the heater.
  • Arm yourself with a tester, set it to resistance measurement and test the heater. Workers are considered indicators in the region of 26 ohms. If they are much lower, the heating element must be replaced.
  • To get the heating element, fold the wires from the heating element itself and the temperature sensor, which is built into the heating element in the center.
  • Unscrew the fasteners, slightly push the part inward and remove it together with the sealing rubber with a loosening motion.
  • Having bought a new part, unpack it, just in case, measure the resistance to exclude defects, and install it instead of the broken heater. He must precisely take his position.
  • Now plug all the wires back in.
  • Connect the appliance to the sewerage and water supply, turn it on and start the washing cycle with heating from 60 degrees.
  • After 15–20 minutes, put your hand to the glass of the hatch (if the model is frontal) - when the operating device is used, the glass will heat up. You can check the work of a part in a vertical model only after a test wash of the laundry - it should wash well and be warm to the touch.

Also, do-it-yourself repair of the Kaiser washing machine often consists of eliminating leaks. If you notice that the appliances have leaked after washing or between cycles, then something is clearly leaking and leaking. Before you start looking for a water leak, take safety measures so as not to flood your apartment and not flood your neighbors. To do this, turn off the valve supplying tap water to the MCA, and then put a few rags in the place where the puddle was found, also place something under the machine itself.

Now you can open the hatch, behind which the "trash" filter is hidden - it is usually located on the right of the basement panel (in vertical structures, it is more often on the left). Proceed like this:

  1. Drain the remaining water in the system.
  2. Start checking the hoses - it's easiest. Unscrew the water inlet and drain hoses from the communications and the equipment itself and carefully inspect for damage. If the leak is strong, take some time to the inlet hose, weak (and the water on the floor is cloudy) to the drain.
  1. Change parts if damaged. It is better not to try to repair them, otherwise the leak will happen again.

Another reason the car started leaking is damage to the pipes. They are located inside the case, so you will have to disassemble the machine. It is difficult to repair or replace the pipes on your own, so it is better to contact the master. But you can check (and even try to replace) details like this:

  • pump;
  • drain pipe;
  • filler pipe;
  • powder cuvette branch;
  • hatch cuff;
  • filter seal;
  • filling valve;
  • emergency drain hose;
  • CMA tank.

Note! The Kaisers' tanks are made of plastic for quieter operation of the unit. But unlike stainless ones, they can be easily damaged if a hairpin that has fallen out of a bra or a pin forgotten in jeans gets into them. The same can damage the cuff of the hatch.

Read our articles on how to replace your pump, seal, filler valve and tank. And also watch a useful video on disassembling the frontal modification, which also shows how to get the bearing and oil seal: