Do-it-yourself kandy washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of kandy washing machines from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Automatic washing machines Kandy are affordable and compact. Convenient control system and a wide range of programs have made the technique popular among users.

However, over time, even reliable equipment can fail. Is it possible to repair the Kandy washing machine with your own hands? Quite!

You just need to find out what the error codes on the control panel mean, and then find and fix the malfunction.

Let's analyze the main problems that are typical for machines of this brand. We will also find out how you can repair Candy washing machines with your own hands.

Have you noticed that the Kandy washing machine does not drain water. The program can stop right in the middle of a wash. Due to the fact that the water does not leave completely, you take out wet things after spinning.

What are the reasons for such a breakdown:

The drain system is clogged. If debris gets into the drain filter or hose, it will block. It is necessary to check the pump and the branch pipe from the tank to the pump.
Breakdown of the drain pump (pump). Often, small objects entering the pump cause damage to the pump.

Why isn't the Candy washing machine working? You start the washing machine as usual, but it does not respond to your actions. Let's figure out the reasons for this problem:

Defective mains cable or extension cord. He could burn out, twist.
Lack of voltage in the network, or it is not enough to start SM Kandy. This can happen if repair work is being carried out on your site, a powerful tool is involved, and so on.
The contacts on the start button are oxidized, so the machine does not respond to switching on.
Malfunction of the control module of the Kandy washing machine. The module is responsible for all programs in the CMA, therefore, if it breaks down, the technician refuses to work.

Video (click to play).

If you notice a puddle of water under the washing machine, you need to urgently look for a leak.

Attention! Do not step into the water, you may be electrocuted. If possible, disconnect the CM from the network or turn off the electricity supply on the switchboard.

Dispensing tray. If the tray is not periodically cleaned, powder accumulates in it, which clogs the pipe. As a result, leakage comes out of the tray.
Drain connection of the Candy washing machine. If it is damaged, water flows out through the bottom of the CM.
Rubber cuff of the hatch. With prolonged use, the cuff could leak and lose its tightness. Or it is damaged by small items during washing.

The washer does not start the washing process or washes things in cold water. The reason for this is a malfunction of the heating element (heating element). Basically, the element fails due to scale or damaged contacts.

Wear of bearings, oil seals, motor electric brushes leads to various malfunctions in the Kandy washing machine. For example, you may notice knocking and rumbling when the washer is running, or the drum stops rotating.

These include problems with closing the sunroof door, faulty wiring between parts and the control module, and a faulty Candy washing machine control board.

How to figure out what kind of breakdown happened in your car? The error codes will help you.

Thanks to the self-diagnosis system, a malfunction code is displayed on the Kandy washing machine display. After decrypting it, the user understands which detail needs to be checked. This makes it possible to independently repair Candy washing machines.

Depending on the type of model, CM can show an error in different ways:

Electronically controlled Activa models show an error on the display.
Models Candy Aquamatic (Kandy Akvamatik), signal about a malfunction by blinking the bottom light on the left. The number of flashes after a pause means the error code.

For washing machines Candy Holiday, Aquamatic, Activa and other models, the following error codes are characteristic: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E09.

SMA made in Italy are popular among Russian consumers for the convenience of the management system and a large number of programs. They are small, not very expensive, but break more often than LG or BOSH. If you have skills in the device of household appliances, then you can try to repair Candy washing machines yourself.

Breakdowns can range from simple to complex ones that can lead to costly repairs. To determine the reasons for the failure, it is necessary to diagnose, which is quite possible to carry out on your own. Experienced craftsmen put the following faults in the first place:

Blockage or technical malfunction in the drain system. The machine stops draining water, stops after washing, without going to spin. If the tightness is broken, then a leak may occur during the wringing of things. A signal to a problem that has arisen may be a characteristic noise during the descent of water. It is usually audible if the pump is clogged.
Wear of the moving parts of the washing machine. Oil seals, engine, shock-absorbing elements, bearings - all this is under constant load. If any of the elements fails, vibration appears in the machine, especially during the spinning process. If you listen, you can distinguish light tapping or grinding in the drum.
Failure of the water heating element. This problem is typical for older models. The water stops heating up, or the machine doesn't wash at all.
Problems with electrical and electronics. The wiring and the points of its connection to the sensors cause the washing machine to stop working. In most cases, due to high humidity, oxidation appears on the terminals, but sometimes the wiring "burns". Voltage drops cause the failure of the sensors and the control module. The failure of the pressure switch is accompanied by problems with draining and drawing water, poor spinning indicates that the tachometer has broken.

To fix the problem with your own hands, careful preparation is necessary. You will need a spacious workplace, tools and accessories.

Eliminate blockage and drain problems.

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This breakdown can be easily repaired on its own. The problem, as a rule, manifests itself in those situations when the rules for operating the machine and caring for it are violated. Cleaning the drain begins with checking the filter. In Kandy, it is located on the lower left side, hidden by a small door or panel. To clean it, carefully unscrew it counterclockwise, pull it towards you. First, spread a rag on the floor to collect the flowing water. The removed filter is washed with water, cleaned of debris, and installed in place.

To clean the hose, pipe and pump, you will have to raise the washer or lay it on its side. The power supply is disconnected beforehand, the drain hose is disconnected from the sewer system. You will have to get to the pump in cars of this brand through the bottom, which is either not there, or there is a special pallet.

After loosening the clamps, it is necessary to disconnect the hose and branch pipe. The latter is washed with water, wiped dry. The hose is cleaned with a cable with a brush and inspected for damage. After that, the sensors are disconnected from the pump intended for draining the water, the fasteners are unscrewed. Having taken out the pump, it is necessary to check the impeller located under the cover. As a rule, hair, wool, villi are wound around it, so everything will have to be removed.It is recommended to replace the burnt out pump with a new one.

Now all that remains is to assemble the machine and test it in operation.

Such work is considered more serious. The difficulty in replacing bearings is that the sleeve that holds them is thermally pressed in, and the bearings themselves are difficult to remove. For repairs, you will have to disassemble the washer by removing the top cover and back panel. First, remove the detergent tray. Next, the front panel is detached. Now it is the turn of the tank, which is removed carefully so as not to damage the wiring and hoses that were previously disconnected.

The peculiarity is that you cannot cope with such work yourself - you will need an assistant. To remove the bearings, the tank will have to be disassembled, the pulley removed from the shaft, the shaft removed, and the two bearings will have to be removed. For such work, you will need a special removable device, but you can also use a regular hammer. Now it remains to install new bearings and assemble the machine. It will not be superfluous if you pre-lubricate the cleaned seats with grease.

Another problem is shock absorbers wear. Strong vibration during washing or wringing out things will remind you of this. These elements are located under the tank. Remember that shock absorbers are non-separable structures, so they will have to be completely replaced. To do this, first unscrew the lower, and then the upper mounts. Sometimes there are plastic latches that you just need to press down to pull out the locking pin. The removed old shock absorber is replaced with a new one.

Procedure for replacing the heating element.

Most often, this element fails during prolonged use of the machine. The reason is the hardness of the water, which is deposited on the heating element with a dense bloom. In case of such a failure, a special error code will be displayed on the screen. There is no need to worry here - the work is simple, it is quite possible to do it yourself. It should only be remembered that the heating element is located behind the rear panel, under the tank.

To replace it, it is necessary to carry out a number of operations:

remove the panel;
unscrew the bolt securing the failed water heating element;
disable all sensors, having previously memorized or marked their connection;
using a flat screwdriver, you can begin to remove the heating element by gently pulling it towards you;
using a multimeter, it is checked for operability;

a serviceable element is simply cleaned of scale, and a new analogue is acquired instead of a burned-out one;
we carry out the installation, connect the wiring and sensors, screw in the mounting bolt, install the back panel in its place.

Problems with electrical and electronics.

Electrical failure is another common problem, involving not only electrical wiring, but sensors as well. Most often, the tachometer and the pressure switch, which is responsible for the liquid level, fail. Checking the wiring for operability is a rather complicated process, which implies the presence of a multimeter and the ability to use it. Sometimes a visual inspection is sufficient to identify oxidized wires or terminals.

The water level gauge is easy to change. It is located in the upper corner, under the cover. The wiring leading from the pump and the electrical board is disconnected from it, the tube connecting the device to the tank is disconnected.

In place of the removed pressure switch, a new one is installed. But the tachometer needs to be changed by an experienced craftsman, because the washing machine will have to be disassembled to get to the electric motor.

If the surge protection is not installed, or there is no ground, the control module may fail. The machine will stop turning on, programming will fail, the washing machine will freeze. The control board is quite expensive, so it is recommended to have it checked and repaired by an experienced technician. Most often, all work ends with its complete replacement.

It happens that the machine does not turn on during startup. There may be several reasons for this:

burned out or kinked network cable. It must be checked and, if necessary, replaced. It happens that the problem is hidden in the extension cord used, so it is recommended to start checking with it;
there is no voltage in the network. Also, it may simply not be enough to start the washing machine. To check, you will have to use any electrical device. If the "diagnosis" is confirmed, invite an electrician;
contacts on the start button have oxidized. Remove the top cover, remove the powder container, remove the panel, disconnect the wiring to the control module, inspect the contacts. They will either have to be protected or changed;
the management module has failed.

Noticing a puddle on the floor, it is recommended to urgently look for a leak. But before starting all the actions, the machine must be de-energized so as not to get an electric shock.

There may be several reasons for the leak:

the dispensing tray is clogged with detergents, clogging the branch pipe;
the water drain pipe is damaged;
from prolonged use, the cuff is worn out or damaged by small objects, having lost its tightness.

It is recommended to regularly clean the outside of the SMA Candy, without using products containing solvents, alcohols or abrasives. It is enough to use a damp cloth for such work.Check the detergent drawer regularly to remove any powder residues. If necessary, remove the container and rinse it thoroughly with water. Image - DIY washing machine repair kandy

The drainage system should be checked and cleaned twice a year.

If the device is moved to another place and it has not been used for a long time, all water must be drained from the system.

Remember that all repair work must begin with the diagnosis of the washing machine in order to identify the malfunction as accurately as possible. Having estimated the complexity of the failure and your own strength, you can decide on an independent repair or call an experienced specialist. Working on your own without the necessary skills can lead to more costly repairs. But if you act on your own, then change the failed elements with their exact counterparts.

Italian Candy washing machines are popular among consumers due to their good quality / price ratio. Despite the excellent performance and reliability, the cars sometimes break down. It always happens suddenly.

But do not be very upset, most of the breakdowns can be solved on your own. Experts from the Kandy service center are sure that many errors occur due to incorrect handling.

Experts from the Kandy service center are sure that many errors occur due to incorrect handling. By the way, I recommend contacting EuroBytService if you need a really high-quality and quick repair of a washing machine of this brand.

It is good if the machine is equipped with a self-diagnosis function. Then the built-in controller itself will determine what the malfunction is and will report it to the display with an alphanumeric code.

Common faults include:

The machine does not start.
There is water in the drum.
The water does not heat up.
There is no drainage of water or it is not collected at all.
An incomprehensible noise or strong vibration is heard during operation.
Failure of the electronic module. With this problem, the machine will not work, even if it is connected to the network, the programs are not configured, the indicators blink chaotically.

The sandy machine does not turn on

What should be done in this case?

Try unplugging and reinserting. Now you can try turning on the power button.
Didn't point 1 help? Maybe the socket is not working? Try plugging another electrical appliance into it.
The cause of a breakdown may be oxidation of contacts or burnout in the power button.You can check this with a tester. If a problem is identified, the part is changed to a new one.

The reason for the absence of warm or hot water during washing lies in a malfunction of the heating element. In this case, the self-diagnostic function will inform the user about the E05 error or blink the indicator 16 times after 5 seconds.

There are many reasons for the breakdown of the heating element. The most common is wear or a thick layer of scale on the heating element due to hard water.

How to check its performance and, if necessary, repair the candy washing machine with your own hands?

The back wall of the washing machine is removed.
The heater shank with two wires will be visible at the bottom.
Using a multimeter, you need to determine the resistance of the device. If it is 20-30 ohms, then it is in working order.
If the ten is defective, you need to get it. To do this, unscrew the bolt between the wires, and the part is pulled out of the machine. Teng can get stuck, then it is difficult to reach it without the help of a rubber mallet.
When installing a new heating element, the hole must first be descaled.
The operability of the heating element is checked by turning the machine into heating mode.

Another reason why the water may not heat up is the breakdown of the temperature sensor. In this case, the machine generates error 05 or 5 flashes.

Door malfunctionA breakdown of the hatch locking device is indicated by the E01 code or the indicator blinks only 1 time. The reason may be Image - DIY washing machine repair kandy

electronics, then it is advisable to use qualified help, or try to repair the door of the candy washing machine yourself.

To dismantle the lock, you will need to remove the hatch seal. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry on the clamp holding it. After removing the elastic, the two screws that secure the lock are unscrewed. The part changes and the machine is assembled in reverse order.

Drainage problem

In this case, the machine cannot drain the used water and displays the message E03 or blinks the indicators three times. What can be done?

Remove the front panel at the bottom.
Find the filter and substitute a low container, unscrew it counterclockwise.
Clean and rinse with water.
The filter is attached to the tank with a pipe. It also needs to be checked, since it is often clogged with various deposits. This can be done with a screwdriver. But, carefully without damaging the pipe.
Now turn on the machine to drain mode and see if the pump impeller turns. You will see it through the filter hole - this is a part with blades. Hair, threads, wool are often wound around the impeller. If it is spinning, the pump is working. If it rotates, but at the same time the pump hums strongly and the impeller itself is shaking, then the problem is in it and jamming occurs due to its looseness. Here you will have to change the pump. Access to the pump of the Kandy washing machine is open through the bottom or pallet, which can be easily removed.

The inlet hose also needs to be cleaned. To do this, it is detached and cleaned with a cable with a brush.

An inlet filter is installed on it, in which sand and rust are often found. The problem in this part is accompanied by the highlighted error E02 on the display or two flashes of the indicators.

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The pressure switch located under the top cover may fail.

This sensor stops functioning if the tube attached to it becomes clogged.

After cleaning it from dirt, blow it. If you hear a click, then the device is in working order.

Bearing failure

If the bearings are broken or worn out, the machine emits a loud hum during operation. To get to them in the candy washing machine, you need to remove the top cover and pull out the tank. Kandy machines are compact, so the elements inside the equipment are located tightly to each other.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Hoses are connected to the tank, which must be all disconnected.
The powder receptacle is pulled out.
The counterweight is unscrewed.
The belt is removed from the drum pulley.
The wires are detached from the heating element.
The engine gets out along the guides. All wires coming from it are pre-disconnected.
The hatch is removed. For this, screws are unscrewed under the cuff, and the fixing clamp is pushed off with a screwdriver.
The tank is disassembled into 2 parts.
The pulley is removed from the drum shaft.
The bearing is knocked out by light tapping. You can't hit the shaft! For these purposes, a wooden block is used.

11.The drum bearing is also knocked out.

New bearings are installed in place of old ones using a washer, nuts and a rod.

These instructions apply to machines with a split tank. Some models have one-piece tanks, then the process becomes much more complicated and it becomes problematic to replace bearings at home.

It is easier to repair the candy aquamatic washing machine, as it is equipped with a self-diagnosis system. To decipher the error code, you need to pay attention to the left indicator. After reading the instructions and finding out how many flashes are characteristic of a certain error code, you can repair the car with your own hands.

– Code 1 means the hatch is blocked. In this case, you need to check whether the hatch is tightly closed. This code also means there is a problem with the controller.

– Code 2 gives an error of water entering the tank - either it is not enough, or not at all. The reasons may be in the valve, controller, water tap, blockage.

– Code 3 characterizes problems with the drain. The pump, drain hose, or filter and siphon may have broken.

If there is water in the drum after the washing program, it first shuts off the water supply, the panel in the lower part of the case is removed and the water is drained using the drain pump filter. After that, you can understand the problem. The pump is being checked.

Due to the adequate ratio of quality and cost, Candy brand washing machines have found many fans among our consumers.

But, as you know, there is no perfection in the world: wonderful Italian devices sometimes break down.

Fortunately, most of the faults are repairable and it is quite possible that you yourself will cope with the problem after reading this article. So, Kandy is a washing machine: DIY repair.

If the Kandy washing machine has a malfunction, you can try to do it yourself. Of all the many elements that make up the washing machine, probably only the frame and decorative trim cannot break. All others, with varying probability, may fail.

The most common problems you have to solve are:

The machine cannot be turned on.
The water in the tank remains cold.
The hatch does not want to open.
Water is not collected well or is not drained.
There is increased vibration and unusual noise during machine operation.

The self-diagnosis function is of great help to the repairman.

If something goes wrong, the built-in controller detects the fault itself and reports it in some way. If there is a display, such as in the ActivaSmart model, an alphanumeric code is displayed on it. Owners of machines without a display (Aquamatic model) can guess the nature of the malfunction by the number of flashes of the LED on the control panel.

For repairs at an amateur level, you will need the simplest tools - keys, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.

You can find out the condition of the electrical part using a multimeter and a phase indicator screwdriver.

A special tool has to be used only when replacing bearings - they are pressed with an interference fit, so a puller will be needed.

We strongly recommend that you take a photo of the wires connected to it before dismantling this or that unit, so that there are no problems with the connection during assembly.

Well, now let's see how you can return this most useful device to working condition.

In this regard, the repair manual contains the following recommendations:

Unplug the power cord from the socket, plug it in again and try to start the device again.
If the machine does not turn on again, check that the outlet is working with some other known working electrical appliance.
The most common reason for this failure is oxidation or burnout of the contacts on the power button. This element is checked using a special tester and, if necessary, replaced with a new one.

The reason for the "strike" may be a faulty control module (the indicator blinks 14, 15 or 18 times in a row). To repair or replace it, you need to contact a workshop.

The reason that the washing machine began to treat its duties "with coolness", in most cases, is the breakdown of the heating element (error code "E05" or the indicator flashes 16 times every 5 seconds).

It can simply burn out from the development of a resource, like a light bulb, or it can "order a long life" prematurely - because of a thick layer of scale.

The heater is manipulated in the following order:

Remove the back panel by unscrewing the corresponding screws.
Locate the heater shank protruding from the bottom of the tank (two wires are connected to it).
Determine the resistance of the heating element with a multimeter. If it is suitable, the device will show 20 - 30 Ohm, if it is burnt out - "infinity".
If the heating element is faulty, unscrew the nut holding it (between the contacts) and carefully remove it from the tank. If you get stuck, hit it gently a couple of times with a rubberized hammer (or with a regular one - on the attached wooden block).
Before installing a new heating element, the inner surface of the tank around the hole must be descaled.

To make sure that the heating element is working, it is enough to turn on the machine for heating and look at the electric meter - the rotation speed of the disk or the blinking frequency of the indicator should increase sharply.

A less common reason is the failure of the temperature sensor (E05 or 5 flashes). To check, first measure its resistance at room temperature, then after heating with hot water. In a non-working element, the resistance will remain constant.

Indesit washing machines have become widespread due to their affordable cost. The unit is of high quality, but any equipment is not insured against breakdowns. Washing machine Indesit - do-it-yourself malfunctions and repairs.

We will consider the main problems associated with connecting a washing machine here.

If there is not enough space in the bathroom, then the washing machine has to be installed in the kitchen.In this thread https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/740/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/kak-podklyuchit-stiralnuyu-mashinku-na-kuhne.html you will find tips for connecting the device for beginners and experienced.

If the door lock device breaks down, the E01 error code is displayed or the indicator blinks 1 time. The reason for the failure lies in the electronics, so it is better to invite a specialist.

If its appearance is not expected in the near future, the lock can be opened by yourself. This will be possible if the front cover is removed from the de-energized machine and slightly tilted back.

It happens that the lock itself requires replacement. To dismantle it, you first need to carefully remove the hatch seal by prying the clamp holding it with a screwdriver. After that, two screws that secure the lock will become available.

If the machine cannot get rid of the waste water (error "E03" or 3 blinks), it is most likely a clogged filter. A pump breakdown could also have occurred. Do the following:

After removing the front lower panel, locate the drain filter on the left side of the machine.
Place a container under the machine, unscrew the filter and free it from accumulated dirt.
Also inspect the tank connection to which the filter is attached. It is often clogged with muddy deposits, which must be carefully removed with a screwdriver.
After plugging in the machine, start it in drain mode and look at the pump impeller (you can see it through the hole in the filter plug). If the pump is working properly, it will rotate. It happens that the impeller rotates, but the operation of the pump is accompanied by a strong hum, and when the impeller is swinging from side to side in the direction perpendicular to the axis (the machine, of course, must be turned off), you can feel that it is very loose. In this case, the impeller can jam from time to time, which is the cause of the problems with the drain. Such a pump must be replaced, for which the rear wall will have to be removed.

It will also be helpful to clean the inlet filter, for which you need to disconnect the inlet hose. It is also often clogged with sand and rust, as a result of which water begins to flow into the machine very slowly (error "E02" or 2 blinks).

The reason for the lack of a normal drain can also be a malfunction of the level sensor, also called a pressure switch (located under the top cover). If the tube attached to it becomes clogged with dirt, the sensor will not function. After removing the dirt, you can check the performance of the pressure switch by blowing into the tube. A working device should respond with a click.

If the machine starts to work with a loud hum, it is most likely that one of the bearings needs to be replaced. To do this, you need to remove the tank, which is done through the top in Candy machines. In some models, the tank is one-piece and needs to be cut and welded to replace the bearings. This can only be done correctly in the workshop. At home, replacement of bearings is possible only for machines with a collecting tank. To get to it, you need to remove the panels - top and back.

It is also better to dismantle the front panel so as not to accidentally scratch it when removing the tank.

Before you get the tank, you need to do the following:

disconnect all the hoses connected to it (the clamps are unclenched with pliers);
remove the powder distribution hopper;
unscrew the counterweight;
remove the belt from the drum pulley;
disconnect the wires from the heating element;
unscrewing the bolts and disconnecting the wires, remove the engine (extends along the guides);
remove the hatch by unscrewing the screws under the sealing collar (the clamp fixing the collar is pushed off with a screwdriver).

Having disassembled the tank into two parts, the pulley is removed from the drum shaft, and then by careful knocking the shaft is knocked out of the bearing. You cannot hit directly on the shaft - you need to put a wooden block. Next, you need to knock the bearing out of the tank with careful uniform blows around the perimeter.

The new bearing is installed in place using a simple device consisting of a pressure washer, a threaded rod and a pair of nuts. One nut is screwed onto the rod from one side - it will press on the pressure washer pressing the bearing. The second nut is screwed onto the rod from the other side (abuts against the tank) - it must be rotated slowly.

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Video (click to play).