Do-it-yourself kandy washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of kandy washing machines from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Automatic washing machines Kandy are affordable and compact. Convenient control system and a wide range of programs have made the technique popular among users.

However, over time, even reliable equipment can fail. Is it possible to repair the Kandy washing machine with your own hands? Quite!

You just need to find out what the error codes on the control panel mean, and then find and fix the malfunction.

Let's analyze the main problems that are typical for machines of this brand. We will also find out how you can repair Candy washing machines with your own hands.

Have you noticed that the Kandy washing machine does not drain water. The program can stop right in the middle of a wash. Due to the fact that the water does not leave completely, you take out wet things after spinning.

What are the reasons for such a breakdown:

  • The drain system is clogged. If debris gets into the drain filter or hose, it will block. It is necessary to check the pump and the branch pipe from the tank to the pump.
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  • Breakdown of the drain pump (pump). Often, small objects entering the pump cause damage to the pump.

Why isn't the Candy washing machine working? You start the washing machine as usual, but it does not respond to your actions. Let's figure out the reasons for this problem:

  • Defective mains cable or extension cord. He could burn out, twist.
  • Lack of voltage in the network, or it is not enough to start SM Kandy. This can happen if repair work is being carried out on your site, a powerful tool is involved, and so on.
  • The contacts on the start button are oxidized, so the machine does not respond to switching on.
  • Malfunction of the control module of the Kandy washing machine. The module is responsible for all programs in the CMA, therefore, if it breaks down, the technician refuses to work.
Video (click to play).

If you notice a puddle of water under the washing machine, you need to urgently look for a leak.

Attention! Do not step into the water, you may be electrocuted. If possible, disconnect the CM from the network or turn off the electricity supply on the switchboard.

  • Dispensing tray. If the tray is not periodically cleaned, powder accumulates in it, which clogs the pipe. As a result, leakage comes out of the tray.
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  • Drain connection of the Candy washing machine. If it is damaged, water flows out through the bottom of the CM.
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  • Rubber cuff of the hatch. With prolonged use, the cuff could leak and lose its tightness. Or it is damaged by small items during washing.
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The washer does not start the washing process or washes things in cold water. The reason for this is a malfunction of the heating element (heating element). Basically, the element fails due to scale or damaged contacts.

Wear of bearings, oil seals, motor electric brushes leads to various malfunctions in the Kandy washing machine. For example, you may notice knocking and rumbling when the washer is running, or the drum stops rotating.

These include problems with closing the sunroof door, faulty wiring between parts and the control module, and a faulty Candy washing machine control board.

How to figure out what kind of breakdown happened in your car? The error codes will help you.

Thanks to the self-diagnosis system, a malfunction code is displayed on the Kandy washing machine display. After decrypting it, the user understands which detail needs to be checked. This makes it possible to independently repair Candy washing machines.

Depending on the type of model, CM can show an error in different ways:

  • Electronically controlled Activa models show an error on the display.
  • Models Candy Aquamatic (Kandy Akvamatik), signal about a malfunction by blinking the bottom light on the left. The number of flashes after a pause means the error code.

For washing machines Candy Holiday, Aquamatic, Activa and other models, the following error codes are characteristic: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E09.

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SMA made in Italy are popular among Russian consumers for the convenience of the management system and a large number of programs. They are small, not very expensive, but break more often than LG or BOSH. If you have skills in the device of household appliances, then you can try to repair Candy washing machines yourself.

Breakdowns can range from simple to complex ones that can lead to costly repairs. To determine the reasons for the failure, it is necessary to diagnose, which is quite possible to carry out on your own. Experienced craftsmen put the following faults in the first place:

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  1. Blockage or technical malfunction in the drain system. The machine stops draining water, stops after washing, without going to spin. If the tightness is broken, then a leak may occur during the wringing of things. A signal to a problem that has arisen may be a characteristic noise during the descent of water. It is usually audible if the pump is clogged.
  2. Wear of the moving parts of the washing machine. Oil seals, engine, shock-absorbing elements, bearings - all this is under constant load. If any of the elements fails, vibration appears in the machine, especially during the spinning process. If you listen, you can distinguish light tapping or grinding in the drum.
  3. Failure of the water heating element. This problem is typical for older models. The water stops heating up, or the machine doesn't wash at all.
  4. Problems with electrical and electronics. The wiring and the points of its connection to the sensors cause the washing machine to stop working. In most cases, due to high humidity, oxidation appears on the terminals, but sometimes the wiring "burns". Voltage drops cause the failure of the sensors and the control module. The failure of the pressure switch is accompanied by problems with draining and drawing water, poor spinning indicates that the tachometer has broken.

To fix the problem with your own hands, careful preparation is necessary. You will need a spacious work area, tools and accessories.

  1. Eliminate blockage and drain problems.
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This breakdown can be easily repaired on its own. The problem, as a rule, manifests itself in those situations when the rules for operating the machine and caring for it are violated. Cleaning the drain begins with checking the filter. In Kandy, it is located on the lower left side, hidden by a small door or panel. To clean it, carefully unscrew it counterclockwise, pull it towards you. First, spread a rag on the floor to collect the flowing water. The removed filter is washed with water, cleaned of debris, and installed in place.

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To clean the hose, pipe and pump, you will have to raise the washer or lay it on its side. The power supply is disconnected beforehand, the drain hose is disconnected from the sewer system. You will have to get to the pump in cars of this brand through the bottom, which is either not there, or there is a special pallet.

After loosening the clamps, it is necessary to disconnect the hose and branch pipe. The latter is washed with water, wiped dry. The hose is cleaned with a cable with a brush and inspected for damage. After that, the sensors are disconnected from the pump intended for draining the water, the fasteners are unscrewed. Having taken out the pump, it is necessary to check the impeller located under the cover. As a rule, hair, wool, villi are wound around it, so everything will have to be removed. It is recommended to replace the burnt out pump with a new one.

Now all that remains is to assemble the machine and test it in operation.

Such work is considered more serious. The difficulty in replacing bearings is that the sleeve that holds them is thermally pressed in, and the bearings themselves are difficult to remove. For repairs, you will have to disassemble the washer by removing the top cover and back panel.First, remove the detergent tray. Next, the front panel is detached. Now it is the turn of the tank, which is removed carefully so as not to damage the wiring and hoses that were previously disconnected.

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The peculiarity is that you cannot cope with such work yourself - you will need an assistant. To remove the bearings, the tank will have to be disassembled, the pulley removed from the shaft, the shaft removed, and the two bearings will have to be removed. For such work, you will need a special removable device, but you can also use a regular hammer. Now it remains to install new bearings and assemble the machine. It will not be superfluous if you pre-lubricate the cleaned seats with grease.

Another problem is shock absorbers wear. Strong vibration during washing or wringing out things will remind you of this. These elements are located under the tank. Remember that shock absorbers are non-separable structures, so they will have to be completely replaced. To do this, first unscrew the lower, and then the upper mounts. Sometimes there are plastic latches that you just need to press down to pull out the locking pin. The removed old shock absorber is replaced with a new one.

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  1. Procedure for replacing the heating element.

Most often, this element fails during prolonged use of the machine. The reason is the hardness of the water, which is deposited on the heating element with a dense bloom. In case of such a failure, a special error code will be displayed on the screen. There is no need to worry here - the work is simple, it is quite possible to do it yourself.It should only be remembered that the heating element is located behind the rear panel, under the tank.

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To replace it, it is necessary to carry out a number of operations:

  • remove the panel;
  • unscrew the bolt securing the failed water heating element;
  • disable all sensors, having previously memorized or marked their connection;
  • using a flat screwdriver, you can begin to remove the heating element by gently pulling it towards you;
  • using a multimeter, it is checked for operability;

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  • a serviceable element is simply cleaned of scale, and a new analogue is acquired instead of a burned-out one;
  • we carry out the installation, connect the wiring and sensors, screw in the mounting bolt, install the back panel in its place.
  1. Problems with electrical and electronics.

Electrical failure is another common problem, involving not only electrical wiring, but sensors as well. Most often, the tachometer and the pressure switch, which is responsible for the liquid level, fail. Checking the wiring for operability is a rather complicated process, which implies the presence of a multimeter and the ability to use it. Sometimes a visual inspection is sufficient to identify oxidized wires or terminals.

The water level gauge is easy to change. It is located in the upper corner, under the cover. The wiring leading from the pump and the electrical board is disconnected from it, the tube connecting the device to the tank is disconnected.

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In place of the removed pressure switch, a new one is installed. But the tachometer needs to be changed by an experienced craftsman, because the washing machine will have to be disassembled to get to the electric motor.

If the surge protection is not installed, or there is no ground, the control module may fail. The machine will stop turning on, programming will fail, the washing machine will freeze. The control board is quite expensive, so it is recommended to have it checked and repaired by an experienced technician. Most often, all work ends with its complete replacement.

It happens that the machine does not turn on during startup. There may be several reasons for this:

  • burned out or kinked network cable. It must be checked and, if necessary, replaced. It happens that the problem is hidden in the extension cord used, so it is recommended to start checking with it;
  • there is no voltage in the network. Also, it may simply not be enough to start the washing machine. To check, you will have to use any electrical device. If the "diagnosis" is confirmed, invite an electrician;
  • contacts on the start button have oxidized. Remove the top cover, remove the powder container, remove the panel, disconnect the wiring to the control module, inspect the contacts. They will either have to be protected or changed;
  • the management module has failed.

Noticing a puddle on the floor, it is recommended to urgently look for a leak. But before starting all the actions, the machine must be de-energized so as not to get an electric shock.

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There may be several reasons for the leak:

  • the dispensing tray is clogged with detergents, clogging the branch pipe;
  • the water drain pipe is damaged;
  • from prolonged use, the cuff is worn out or damaged by small objects, having lost its tightness.