Do-it-yourself samsung washing machine repair bearing replacement

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of samsung washing machines replacement of a bearing from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Owners of home appliances of a well-known South Korean brand will be interested in how a Samsung washing machine is repaired with their own hands.

Unfortunately, sometimes it is necessary to eliminate breakdowns and leaks of washing machines, even in an expensive price segment, and knowledge of error codes and related malfunctions may also be required.

First, you should familiarize yourself a little with the main features of these machines. First, it is stylish design.

Secondly, it is the original design of the drum. Modern modifications of Samsung washing machines are equipped with a fundamentally new technical solution - Drum Diamond Drum .

It belongs to an innovative type of honeycomb drums with a surface covered with many convex pyramids and small water holes, into which the fabric is not drawn.

Thanks to this design, a gentle wash cycle is provided. These drums can be very spacious - with a load of up to 12 kg of laundry, depending on the model of the machine.

Thirdly, worthy of attention heaters with double ceramic coatingnot covered with limescale, and inverter motorattached directly to the drum in some modifications.

Also interesting are the functions Fuzzy Logic and Smart Check responsible for the correct calculation of the washing mode depending on the amount of loaded laundry, as well as for diagnosing various machine malfunctions.

The number of wash programs depends on the model of the washing machine. Even the simplest modifications are equipped with all the necessary set of programs, and the new models have a washing mode called ECO Bubble - with the help of air bubbles, laundry is easier to wash even in cold water.

Video (click to play).

If the machine is marked with Wf, it means that this model is front-loaded, and if its name contains the abbreviation WD, it means that the machine is equipped with a built-in dryer.

But Samsung brand machines also have one small drawback - their instability to voltage drops in the network, which is important in our Russian reality.

When the voltage becomes either too high or low, then a control system called Volt Control simply turns off the washing mode to resume it immediately after the mains voltage has stabilized. This is not always convenient, so it is better to connect the washing machine through a voltage regulator.

After a short acquaintance with the parameters of this brand, let's move on to considering the main breakdowns.

To understand the malfunction that has arisen, you need to consider the most common of them and the reasons for their occurrence.

Here is a list of common problems:

Further, the methods of repairing them with your own hands will be considered, because it is not always possible to call the master. And for this you need to have a set of necessary tools.

Before starting repairs, you need to make sure that all the tools from this list are available:

flat and Phillips screwdrivers or screwdriver;
set of wrenches;
pliers, pliers, wire cutters;
tweezers - elongated and curved;
powerful flashlight;
long-handled mirror;
soldering iron;
gas-burner;
small hammer;
knife.

In addition to the listed tools, you may need a magnet to pull out small metal objects inside the machine, a long metal ruler to align the drum, a multimeter or voltage indicator.

But that's not all. In addition to the required set of instruments, the following building materials will need to be purchased for repairs:

sealant;
Super glue;
insulating resin;
soldering materials - rosin, flux, etc .;
wires;
clamps;
current fuses;
rust remover;
electrical tape and scotch tape.

Sometimes a multimeter is not needed, it is enough to turn on the machine and select a mode with a high water temperature. From the operation of an apartment electricity meter, it is easy to understand whether the heating element is receiving power.

If you are a beginner, then you can advise using a camera to shoot a video or to photograph a workflow, so as not to confuse the sequence of actions and then assemble the machine correctly.

There are several important rules to remember that must be followed before starting repair work:

it is necessary to drain all the water from the machine;
before disassembly, be sure to (!) disconnect the device from the power supply;
choose a bright and spacious enough place for renovation.

If the unit cannot be moved to a convenient location, then ensure maximum illumination of the workplace.

The first step is to remove the top panel of the washing machine.

The second step is to take out the container for powders, this is not difficult to do. Next, you need to remove the cuff from the hatch. Caution is needed here. Use a screwdriver to pry the retaining clip, remove it, and then remove the O-ring. This should be done carefully, trying not to tear the soft rubber.

It was the turn of the control panel. In order to remove it, you need to unscrew two screws on the front of the panel and one on the right.

Next, you can proceed to dismantle the lower front panel. Pulling the latch lever, we separate the basement part of the facade - access to the drain filter and the hose for the emergency filter is open. The front panel can now be removed by unscrewing the eight fixing screws. The heating element and the drain pump open.

If during the repair process it is necessary to remove the tank and drum, then we advise you not to do this alone. Be sure to involve an assistant in this matter. Before removing the tank, you need to de-energize the heating element, disconnect all pipes, as well as the electrical wiring from the motor.

To do this, put the machine on its side, then remove the 4 screws on the bottom cover. The engine opens with a counterweight secured by shock absorbers. Disconnect the wiring from the connectors. It is important to remember what is being attached to what, therefore, before disassembling, it is advisable to photograph everything, in order to repeat everything exactly as in the picture.

But it remains to disconnect the drive belt from the engine. To do this, simply remove the belt from the pulley. Remember to put the drive belt on the small drive pulley first, then slide it over the large driven pulley and align to the center of the pulley when putting on the belt.

We present to you a diagram of the device, which will be very useful for repairs. The technical content of machines of different brands is about the same, and if you have already come across the replacement of spare parts for a washing machine, then it will be easier for you to cope with the next repair.

Now you can start a story about certain types of breakdowns and how to repair them.

The most common cause is insufficient water pressure. Then the machine stops, and in order to start it again, it must be turned off and then turned on again. If there is a lot of laundry loaded, for the machine to start, just turn it off and remove the excess.

If there is a break in the power cord or initially poor contact in the power button, then the device periodically turns off by itself. The machine may also stop if it is not level and slightly skewed.

To solve this problem, first check the water pressure in the water supply system, and also make sure that the valve supplying water to the machine is open well.

> Do-it-yourself Samsung washing machine repair. Replacing drum bearings. ”> Do-it-yourself Samsung washing machine repair. Replacement of drum bearings.

Hello everyone.Let me introduce you to a short instruction in which I will tell you how to replace faulty bearings in a washing machine drum. Very often there are questions from owners of washing machines on the topic of noise during operation and replacement of bearings. The noise during washing is primarily emitted by the drum bearing. I have washing machine samsung R1043... She worked for 6 years during which there were no complaints about her.

There were a lot of laundry during this period, I think about one and a half washes a day.

After 6 years, I thought about changing the washing machine to a new model. Chose a car Lg with a direct motor. And like a custom-made machine Samsung started making noise when washing. I purchased the selected model, which by the way is very quiet.

Since the call of the master and the consumables would cost me a normal amount, I decided to repair the machine myself. If you do it carefully, then everything will certainly work out. The main thing is to keep your arms straight. Next, I suggest you something like instructions for disassembling the washing machine and replacing the drum bearings. The article is voluminous due to the large number of photos, but it will be easier to understand the process of disassembling and replacing bearings.

First, let's decide on the necessary tool. Since I started not knowing that I would need a tool, I was looking for a repair. Here is a list of the entire set for you.

Since it is necessary to get to the drum of the machine to replace the bearings, it is necessary to disassemble it completely. Some models have a special cover on the back of the case, which provides access to the motor, belt indiscriminately. However, my model had to be completely disassembled. To do this, you need enough space so that it is more convenient to work and expand the parts.

Let's start disassembling. You must first remove the top cover, which is attached with two self-tapping screws from the back. To remove the cover, you must move it away from the face of the machine and lift it.

Remove the washing powder tray. The container is removed and three hoses are disconnected from it, they are clamped with metal clamps. It is convenient to open these clamps with pliers.

After removing the cover, it immediately catches your eyes large counterweight... The names of the parts are mine, since I do not know what they are actually called, but I think everything will be clear to you. Remove the large counterweight, which is attached with two long bolts.

We unscrew the bolts and remove the counterweight by lifting it up.

The counterweight is not light, so don't drop it or split it. By the way, it looks like a cast piece of cement mortar.

The body of the machine is connected to the drum by a rubber casing, which is attached to the drum by a large steel wire clamp. It is loosened by loosening the bolt.

Drum body without counterweight (top view).

Next, we put the car on its side and remove the bottom cover. It is made of plastic and is held by 4 self-tapping screws. Unscrew and remove.

A small counterweight, an electric motor and a pump are hidden behind the bottom cover, which are attached to the drum body. This whole structure rests on the body of the machine with two shock absorbers.

Next, we need to disconnect all cables from the contacts of the electric motor and pump.

Disconnect the two shock absorbers from the washer body, which are bolted down.

From the side of the top cover is connected to the body water inlet, unscrew it without disconnecting the wires. (wires will not interfere with us).

From above, the drum body is supported by spring hangers. Using pliers, first disconnect the hooks from the drum body, and then from the machine body. We'll have to suffer a little, but everything will work out for sure!

In order to take out the drum, it is necessary to remove the front part of the washing machine. First, unscrew the control panel and then remove the front part with the door. All of them are fastened with self-tapping screws. The screwdriver did it in half a minute.

And here we have a disassembled car body.We unscrew the small counterweight to make it easier to remove the drum body.

Here is such a small counterweight.

Those same spring hangers.

Now we carefully take out the drum body and place it on the floor. Before us is the main part of the washing machine.

At the back, remove the belt that connects the drum wheel and the electric motor.

An 8-point hexagon bolt attaches the wheel to the body. We unscrew it and remove the wheel.

We begin to disassemble the drum body.

We unscrew the shock absorbers first, unscrew the bolts not to the end, but only to free the second half of the body. Shock absorbers are not only attached to the drum body, but also pull together.

The body consists of two parts, which are compressed by brackets and clamps. It is easy to remove the clamps with a wrench.

You can easily remove the staples with a flat screwdriver.

Let me remind you once again to make marks in order to properly assemble the case.

We open the case and observe what is inside.

After I opened the drum, I saw an unpleasant picture. the heating element was completely covered with limescale. The plastic body itself and the drum were covered with scale.

The heating element is not easy to remove. The nut is unscrewed from the outside and it is squeezed out. You must first descale it. The element is fixed with an elastic band that expands after tightening the nut.

Now we detach the drum from the second half of the body.

Removal of the drum showed that the oil seal was unusable. The oil seal should protect the bearing from moisture, but it got to them, and they began to make noise during operation.

All scale from the body was removed with an ordinary metal brush for washing dishes. She does not scratch and does her job well. The scale turned out to be two full handfuls.

The outer bearing was ok, however I decided to replace all bearings. I knocked out the outer one (it's small) from the inside with a thick screwdriver and a hammer, gently tapping on the bearing rings. You have to be careful here, since the bearing is located in the aluminum sleeve so as not to scratch it. The inner bearing (large) was knocked out from the outside to the inside with a metal tube of a similar diameter.

He hammered the new bearings neatly into place with a hammer, placing a wooden block.

The washing machine is assembled in reverse order.

What did we end up with? The washing machine works normally, washes and does not make noise. In terms of costs, I saved a lot.

inner bearing (6204) - 60 rubles
outer bearing (203) - 90 rubles
oil seal (SMA Samsung 25 * 50.55 * 10/12 P6091 (DC62-00007A)) - 200 rubles

As a result, all the repairs cost me only 350 rubles.

After working for 6 years, the machine is in excellent condition, not counting the scale. I am pleased with the Samsung, but I bought LG, which proved to be very good, quiet and many modes of operation.

By the way, in order for the machine to serve you longer, you need to set it by level and check its position from time to time. Over time, due to vibrations, the washer can move out of place.

In the comments, a question was raised about an error that signals a blockage in the drain pump. Here is an interesting video that shows you how to remove the pump from a Samsung washing machine, clean it and check the quality of work.

Recently I found out a way to protect your washing machine from limescale.I will accumulate interesting questions in the subsection of this FAQ article a little lower.

Thanks to the author for the instruction, replaced the bearings. although everyone said that it was better not to go into the machine.

To the author, my thanks! The casing got dressed without any problems. I would advise you to have a marker in the instruments, to note all sorts of subtleties. Everything is working.

Thanks, saved $ 150.

Hooray. Everything worked out. It works. 2 times changed the bearing ... .. Thank you very much.

Thank you, it is great and understandable written.

mine worked for 5 years and the situation is exactly the same. Tomorrow I will take on changing the bearing, then I will write what happened, but everything is described in detail, given that I always try to do everything myself (this saves money and gives experience) your experience is very useful to me, thank you!

According to our description, everything is simple. Thank you.

Thank you for the detailed description of the repair process! It helped a lot.

Many thanks! I have the same model, also 6 years old, and the bearings also rustled and the drum started to play. Now everything is clear and understandable what exactly to do.

Even reliable Samsung cars require attention, especially after 5-7 years of operation. While replacing the hose, cuff and belt are easy tasks, replacing the drum bearing on a Samsung washing machine can take effort, time, and money.On the latter, you can save money if you try to do everything yourself.Replacing a bearing in a Samsung washing machine is the only right solution in the event of a breakdown, since repair of this component is often impossible.It is worth starting preparation for work with the search for suitable spare parts. Now the market (both shops, service centers, and on the Internet) offers a huge selection of bearings for any models of Samsung washing machines. In the kit you will receive:In order not to confuse and not to buy an unsuitable set, tell the seller the exact model and year of manufacture of your washing machine. To make it easier to navigate, look at the table of spare parts for Samsung typewriters:In addition to the part itself, you need to prepare a small set of tools. To dismantle the fasteners, unscrew the tank into 2 parts, knock out the bearings, arm yourself:

a small copper hammer;

grease or WD-40;

bent hex key;

marker;

metal hairpin;

pliers;

adjustable wrench;

keys of various modifications;

indicator, negative and positive screwdrivers;

sealant.

All this will help you to replace the bearing with your own hands according to all the rules.Having collected all the necessary tools, you can begin to figure out how to replace a bearing in a Samsung washing machine.Prepare a comfortable place in which you will disassemble the machine - it may not be enough in the bathroom, so if possible, transfer the equipment to a workshop or garage.Next, you need to remove the "extra" parts that interfere with the dismantling of the tank. You need to disassemble sequentially so as not to lose parts and fasteners, so carefully sort and lay out everything that you remove from the car.Disassemble the CM case according to the following scheme:

Remove the top panel. To do this, unscrew the two fasteners located at the corners on the back wall. Then take the lid with both hands and pull it towards you, and then up. After removing the panel, set it aside so it does not get in the way.

Image - Do-it-yourself repair of samsung washing machines replacement of the bearing

Remove the detergent drawer. It's as easy as shelling pears:

pull the tray out to the maximum;
press the valve located in the middle;
with the other hand, slightly lift the tray and pull it towards you;
if you did everything correctly, the receiver will jump off.

After removing the powder receiver, unscrew the hoses that supply water to it, as well as the branch pipe through which the dissolved powder is poured into the tank. Unclench the clamps using pliers.
At the top of the washer you will see a counterweight. It looks like a large brick or stone. Choose a suitable head to unscrew the fasteners.

Carefully! The counterweight is heavy, do not drop it on yourself or onto the machine.

Next, you will need to dismantle the gum seal.

Removing the rubber cuff on a Samsung washing machine is easy:

Remove the two bolts that hold the sunroof lock.
Remove the sensor - this is necessary in order not to break the wiring when removing the cuff.
Use a thin screwdriver to pry off the wire clamp.
Guide the screwdriver under the clamp until you bump into the hardware. Your task is to weaken it.
Loosen the bolt and remove the clamp.
With your fingers under the cuff, pull it towards you.

You may not need to fully pull out the seal. The point is that it does not interfere with the removal of the front panel.

Next, lay the clipper on its side to gain access to the bottom of the MCA. Remove the bottom by unscrewing the 4 screws holding the cover. Set it aside.

Get started electronics:

Locate the engine and drain pump. Remove all wiring connected to these parts. If possible, record the disassembly process on video so that you do not confuse all the wires later. If this is inconvenient, then mark everything using a marker.

Important! The pins that connect the wire to the sensors are very weak, so try not to damage them. If you find burnt contacts or wires, replace them immediately.

Now you need to remove the racks - replacing the bearing of a Samsung washing machine is impossible with them. The ends of the posts are attached to the tank with four bolts, on the other side the posts are screwed to the machine body.

Do not remove anything at the bottom except the motor. The pump will not hurt you either - it will only be enough to remove the pipes going to it.

Leave the washer in a horizontal position - so it will be more convenient for you to remove the water inlet valve along with the pipes and sensors running to it.

Remove the wire connected to the valve sensor, then unscrew the fasteners that hold it in place. Remove the valve, set aside. Finally, remove the 4 springs that hold the tank.

Now there is nothing left to get to the tank - you only need to remove the wall and the front cover. The control panel is held in place by 5 bolts. By unscrewing them, you can easily remove it.

The main thing is not to damage the control panel wiring!

The front wall is held in place by about a dozen fasteners. Find them all and unscrew. Remove the cover and set aside. By the way, under the front cover there is another smaller counterweight than the main one. Take a socket wrench and unscrew it.

Now everything that previously prevented you from getting the tank has been eliminated. You can get the engine and the tank. It is important not to damage the wiring and other vulnerable components, so as not to add work to yourself.

Turn the tank over.
Remove the belt from the pulley.
Unscrew the pulley with a hexagon. If the pulley fasteners are tight, drip some WD-40 to avoid ripping off the bolt.

You have coped with the routine work and disassembled almost the entire machine. Now, you can disassemble the tank to see live what bearings are in your Samsung washing machine and make sure that they need to be replaced.

Since the racks have already been unscrewed earlier, it remains to remove only the clamps and brackets. The tools will help you with this. There are usually no special subtleties and difficulties with this work.

Remove the top of the tank body to expose the drum. Then remove the bottom. As a result, you should have:

The upper half of the tank with a hatch hole in the center.
The lower half of the tank with a heater.
Drum and axle.

Since you have done this kind of work, do not focus only on the bearings - check everything that you have access to along the way.

For example, you can check the inside of the tank for damage, or check the heating element for dirt and scale, short circuit and breakdown to the case (the last two checks are done by a tester). If you find problems with the heater, you can clean it from limescale or completely replace it with a similar one.

Before replacing a bearing on a washing machine, you need to get it out. Follow this scheme:

In the tank bushing you will find 2 bearings of different sizes.
To get a large one, it must be knocked out from the outside towards the tank using a hairpin.
The smaller one is knocked out from the inside of the tank.
Take a pin, place it against the edge of the bearing and tap it lightly with a hammer. Lean the stud against the second edge and tap again lightly - so walk around the entire circumference of the bearing until it pops out.

Attention! When knocking out a part, never hit the same place. There should be at least 3 points for whipping. Otherwise, the bearing will come out crooked or it may get stuck in the bushing, and you will have unnecessary problems.

By the way, you can remove bearings in any auto repair shop - locksmiths have special pullers. Therefore, if there is such an opportunity, you can contact the specialists. Usually they do this work for a nominal fee.

remove the used items;
take a clean cloth and wipe the inside of the sleeve;
lubricate the new oil seals with the grease that comes with the bearings;
install the oil seals.

Then you can fit the bearings. Do it this way:

install the part in the bushing and put it there with your fingers;
put a wooden block on the second bearing;
hit the part several times until it sits down.

If you still do not know how much a bearing for a Samsung washing machine costs, then we warn you that a good part costs about 600 rubles. And if you do something wrong, you will have to buy again and again or contact a master.

We will list the typical mistakes of amateur craftsmen, so that you can see how to do no need... Most often, home craftsmen make the following mistakes:

cut off the UBL wiring;
tearing the cuff;
damage the pulley by removing it from the axle;
break off the fastening bolts;
cut off the wiring of the temperature sensor or heating element;
tear off the pipes if they forgot to remove or loosen the clamps;
break the sleeve when knocking out the bearings (in this case, you need to change the drum).

You need to know these errors so as not to repeat them yourself during the repair process. If something does not work out or is forgotten, it is better to read the article again or print the instructions and act strictly according to it.

Bookmark our site so you don't miss out on valuable bearing replacement tips.

Anyone can determine that a bearing needs replacement in a washing machine. It doesn't matter which brand is Samsung or another model. Bearings usually break down gradually. And noise begins to occur during washing, and in the spin mode it becomes unbearable. The washing machine often vibrates and moves. Buying special foot pads does not solve the problem. Sometimes the drive belt comes off. I will tell you how to do it yourself, so to speak, "with your own hands", without involving a master, using the example of the Diamond model.

You can diagnose that the bearings are worn out as follows:

We open the hatch and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a characteristic crunch, as if something is rattling, as if over bumps, then the problem is in the bearings.
After opening the door, grasp the edges of the drum with your fingers and try to move it. If it moves up and down by 5 mm or more, then the bearings or the cross are worn out.

To be sure that the problem is in performance, you need to remove the back cover. Spinning the drum, listen to the pulley. You can throw off the belt, then only the bearing will be heard.

This is what a washing machine looks like with the lid removed.

If you do not change it in time, then the situation will worsen. The fact is that there is a backlash when the drum rotates. And this is the reason for two additional damage, which will lead to an increase in the cost of repairs.

First problem. The bearings are pressed into their seats. In the case of the washer, which we are considering in the article, they are pressed directly into the plastic tank. And operating the machine with worn bearings can cause these seats to collapse.

They can break to such an extent that it will be impossible to install new ones in the same place. In this case, a complete replacement of the tank will be required. And this is a different cost of repair.

Second problem. Shaft destruction or damage. In our car, it is connected to the crosspiece, which is attached to the drum. The shaft rotates inside the bearings, and if they work with backlash, this will lead to a shaft wearout.

As a result, you will have to additionally change the tank crosspiece. Difficulties may arise in finding the cross. Some models are difficult to find and must be ordered from suppliers in Europe or China. Wait 2-3 months!

In this Samsung Diamond washing machine, we change the bearings.

All work can be divided into several large steps:

It is necessary to remove the tank from the washing machine, having previously disconnected and unscrewed all attached elements from it.
It is necessary to disassemble the tank, and knock out the bearings and the oil seal.
Buy new ones and install them in the seats.
Put the tank back in the washing machine, and hang and connect all the equipment.

These are the main stages, you can break them down into smaller ones, but I decided to define them this way. After replacing, it is necessary to check the performance of the washing machine in all modes, and be sure to make sure that there are no leaks.

View with the top panel removed.

First, remove the top cover, having previously unscrewed two self-tapping screws. Then slap your palm against the front. It will come out of the latches and can be easily removed.

We remove the counterweight, which is located on the top of the tank. To do this, we will use a size 10 socket wrench with an extension. Usually there are no problems here.

Tank with counterweight removed.

It is necessary to remove the front panel with the control unit and buttons. To do this, first pull out the container for the detergent powder from the dosing tank: pull it out and press the button highlighted in blue.

By pulling the dispenser, it will be pulled out without visible effort. Two self-tapping screws will become available, which are screwed to the bladder tank through the front panel, ensuring the tightness of the structure.

We unscrew the three screws from the top - they attach the dispenser tank to the metal body. Then we unscrew the three self-tapping screws that connect the front panel with the control unit to the car frame.

The photo shows self-tapping screws that need to be unscrewed (Top and top right).

After that, we pull the panel with the module towards ourselves, and the dispenser tank away from us. The tank should disconnect. He intersects with her part of the body.

Then we need to pull out the front panel. This must be done carefully, because it is attached to the bottom of the body with latches.

The latches are plastic and can break!

You can unfasten one or two latches by sticking your hand between the tank and the panel. The junction can be seen by illuminating yourself with a flashlight.

The removed panel. One of the latches is visible at the top left.

It makes no sense to completely remove the panel and disconnect all loops. It is enough to push it aside. She will not interfere with our work.

Disconnect the inlet valves from the power supply, having previously marked or photographed the location. We detach the rubber hoses from them.

To remove the hoses, you first need to move the metal springs back. This is best done with round nose pliers or special clamp removers.

The valve does not need to be removed. They will not interfere with the removal of the tank. But it is necessary to dismantle the "pressure switch". It is located in the lower right corner when looking at the washing machine from above from the front. You can see it in the shared photo above.

Before pulling out the "pressure switch", it must be unhooked from the rubber hose, after removing a small iron clamp. Then unscrew the self-tapping screw, with which it is attached to the body.

The water level sensor hose and other rubber connections do not have to be removed from the tank! They will not interfere with us.

We detach one more small branch pipe from the dispenser. You can see it in the photo below.

Between the bladder tank and the main tank, there is one more branch pipe, and it is the main one. Located at the bottom of the bladder tank and clamped by a large and tight iron clamp. It is most convenient to unfasten it after the front panel with the door has been dismantled.

After removing the entire panel, there will be free access to the branch pipe. First of all, detach the cuff. The rubber is pressed with a metal clamp with a spring.

We will use a slotted screwdriver. First, we find the location of the spring and use a screwdriver to pull out the clamp. Pull the cuff out with our hands.

Removing the rubber band from the front panel.

We unscrew the self-tapping screws with which the front part is attached to the body of the washing machine. Two on top, three on the bottom. Let's use a Phillips screwdriver.

Top left screw that holds the panel.

We carefully remove the front part, but not completely. The panel is connected to the body with an emergency drain and a hatch lock (UBL).

The emergency drain must be pulled out of the holder. It is a rubber hose with a cap and is located at the bottom right under the cap.

Then we unfasten the UBL.There are 2 ways to go here. Pull out the chip with contacts from the lock, or unscrew the two self-tapping screws with which it is attached to the case.

This is how the castle looks from the inside.

Contacts sometimes turn sour and it is difficult to pull out a chip. In this position, I simply unscrew the UBL from the case.

Important advice! When disassembling a washing machine, a dilemma arises of what to do with bolts and screws. How not to be confused later when assembling. I always screw them back into the seats. Not completely, but slightly baiting.

A connection is now available between the tank and the dispenser. It is perhaps the most difficult to dismantle and install.

After removing the branch pipe, remove the dispenser and dismantle the counterweights, which are located around the cuff in two semicircles. We use a socket wrench. The rubber itself does not need to be removed.

We detach the branch pipe connecting the tank and the drain pump. It is located at the bottom right. Can be detached from the tank, or from the pump. For further disassembly, it is better to remove it from the drain pump.

At the bottom right is the pipe between the pump and the tank.

Remove the top horizontal bar. She will interfere with us. We unscrew the four screws.

After that, all the work on the front and top of the Samsung washing machine is practically completed. It remains to disconnect the shock absorbers, but it is better to remove them after dismantling the engine. Moving on to the back.

We reset the contacts from the heating element - this is a tubular electric heater. You will need pliers or round nose pliers.

We remove the right chip carefully! Hands!

We reset the contacts from the electric motor. It will take patience and round nose pliers. Contacts sometimes turn sour. There is a plastic latch on the side. It must be picked up with a slotted screwdriver.

Remove the drive belt. We unscrew the two bolts that secure the motor to the case and take it out.

After that, we return to the front and unscrew the bolts that attach the shock absorbers to the tank body. For this Samsung washing machine, you can screw the mount at the tank, or at the case.

It should be noted that this is not always possible with other models. After all these procedures, we are ready to dismantle the tank.

After dismantling the counterweights and the electric motor, our tank became not too heavy, and one person of average build can pull it out. It is most convenient to put one hand inside the drum and slightly raise the tank, and unhook the springs with the other hand.

Springs on which the tank hangs.

It is necessary to remove the pulley. This will not be easy because the bolt is glue-mounted. For work, we need a 13 key, better than an end key. Lever tube. Pliers.

If you have an assistant, then he must hold the drum. If it is not there, then you need to use pliers to block the scrolling of the shaft relative to the tank body. Using two handles, insert between the ribs of the tank and the pulley.

While holding the pliers with one hand, with your feet on the tank, with the other hand try to slide the bolt that secures the pulley. I repeat that it will be extremely difficult to do this without a lever. Almost unrealistic.

After removing the pulley, do not remove the bolt, it will come in handy for us. We unscrew the bolts tightening the two parts of the tank. Do not separate the two halves at once. Tighten the bolt securing the pulley to the shaft completely and hit it through a piece of wood with a hammer. It is necessary to move at least 1 cm.

The process of loosening the bolts.

After that, it is necessary to split the tank and knock out the shaft. As the pulley moves, you need to unscrew the bolt.

After removing the drum, carefully inspect the shaft and spider. On the shaft, it is necessary to study the seats for development (shiny). Check the crosspiece for integrity.

Shaft with a cross on the tank.

The inside surface is usually covered with a layer of dirt and soft limescale. We clean the area around the bearings and take out the oil seal first. You can pull it out with a large, sturdy slotted screwdriver.

We put something under the half of the tank with bearings to raise it above the floor surface.I use semi-circular counterweights for the stand.

First we knock out the outer bearing. We use a hammer and an iron drift. You can use a chisel as a drift.

My Bearing Removal Tools.

When knocking out, it is necessary to ensure that the bearing does not wedge. To do this, we use uniform impacts on different parts of the rim.

Then we dismantle the inner bearing in the same way.

Removed bearings and oil seal.

We thoroughly clean and wash the inner surface of the tank and the outer drum.

We take out the gasket from the joint of the halves. We clean the groove and wash the gum.

It is necessary to buy a repair kit consisting of new bearings, an oil seal and special grease. All this can be purchased only from specialized suppliers of spare parts for washing machines.

You can read the markings on the bearings and seals, or use the product number of the machine found on the sticker.

For our Samsung WF 8590 NFW washing machine, bearings 203 and 204 are needed, and the oil seal of the next standard size is 25 * 50.5 * 10/12.

Then we install the bearings in reverse order - first internal, then external.

Important! We apply blows only to the outer rim!

Move the drift evenly in a circle or using opposite edges. Better to use two approaches.

Installing bearings with a chisel.

We hammer in the oil seal, after applying a special lubricant for washing machines on the inner surface.

Important! It is necessary to fill the entire rim (groove). This will guarantee a long bearing life.

We insert the drum with the shaft into place. Most likely, he will not be able to enter without effort. Then use a pulley and bolt. Tightening the bolt will reinstall the drum.

Then you can assemble the tank, not forgetting to put back the rubber butt between the halves. I additionally use a silicone sealant to prevent leaks, smearing one edge in a circle.

Important! For this, you can use only sanitary and high-temperature (at least 100 degrees) silicone sealant!

As a matter of fact, the main titanic work has been completed. Next, you need to perform all the same steps as during disassembly, only in reverse order.

If you are using a sealant, let it dry as instructed before using the water in the CMA.

Before installing the back cover, you need to test the washing machine in different modes. And watch the bottom with a flashlight to see if there are any leaks. If they are not there, then you can safely put the lid on and use.

Video (click to play).

Replacing bearings in a washing machine with a collapsible plastic tank does not fundamentally differ depending on the brand or model. You can use this technique on other CMAs, not just Samsung Diamond. For example, on Eco Bubble, wf6450n7w, wf6450s7w, r1033, s821, wf s861 models.