Do-it-yourself washing machine repair bearing replacement

The bearing is an important element of the washing machine. It is a metal washer that supports the drum rotation shaft. The bearing helps to evenly distribute the load on the drum, therefore its serviceability is very important for the stable operation of the device. Bearing wear greatly affects the quality of the wash, so it is very important to notice the signs of breakage in time and replace the part.

A characteristic signal indicating that the bearing is defective is the extraneous noise emitted by the washing machine during operation. As soon as you hear an unusual hum or tapping, you need to immediately establish the cause. If it is a bearing, the broken part will have to be replaced.

Read about how to do this without harming the washing machine in our today's article.

To get to the bearing, the washer must be almost completely disassembled.

To do this, you may need the following working tools:

• Screwdriver Set;
• chisel;
• hammer:
• hacksaw;
• pliers and wire cutters;
• set of keys;
• set of hexagons;
• silicone sealant.

Do not forget also about new parts - bearing and oil seals.

• We disconnect the washing machine from the electrical outlet, disconnect the hoses from the water and sewer pipes.
• We move the unit away from the walls, so that there is free access to it from all sides.
• At the back of the washing machine, we find two screws in the upper part and unscrew them. Remove the cover.
• Disconnect the detergent feeder.
• We unscrew the bolt that is located under the feeder.
• Remove the front panel located at the bottom of the device.
• We find two bolts under the panel, unscrew them too.
• We remove two clamps one by one, which fix the rubber cuff on the hatch.
• We pull off the cuff itself from the edge of the hatch.
• We wring out the device that ensures the blocking of the hatch.
• Remove the front panel of the washing machine.
• Remove the back panel of the washing machine.
• Remove the strap from the pulley.
• We disconnect the wires leading to the heating element, having previously photographed their location.
• Disconnect the pipe connecting the pump to the tank.
• We unscrew the two bolts on which the engine is fixed.
• Remove the shock absorbers and springs that hold the tank.
• We carefully take out the tank itself.

Having pulled out the tank, we determine its appearance. Washing machine tanks are split and non-split. The split tank consists of two halves connected by brackets or bolts. In this case, you just need to remove the fasteners. If the tank is one-piece, we cut it along the weld with a hacksaw for metal.

Next, we act in this order:

• We detach the pulley (wheel) of the drum. We do this using a suitable sized wrench or work with a hammer and chisel.
• We loosen the pulley and carefully remove it from the screw.
• Using the same tools, trying not to damage the shaft, we knock the drum out of the hatch.
• We find bearings on the inner and outer parts of the drum. Moving in a circle, we knock out the worn out bearing from the seat.
• We clean the nest from dirt, treat it with a sealant or special grease.
• We drive a new bearing into the socket and replace the oil seals.

How do you know when a bearing needs to be replaced in a washing machine? In the process of washing the clothes, it begins to make noise, knock, creak. And over time, these unpleasant sounds will only increase. If the bearing is not replaced on time, then it will be much more difficult to do this.Also, if you do not change the bearing in a timely manner, the washing machine may completely break down and will no longer be repairable. The best option, if a bearing breakage is found, is to immediately replace it with a new one.

Replacing the bearing yourself will be very difficult and not at all quick. Therefore, before changing it, you need to decide whether you can do all the necessary work with your own hands? If such work is beyond your strength, then it is better to call a master. Replacing a bearing, including the cost of a new part, will cost you about a third of the cost of a new washing machine. Of course, there are different prices for household appliances and their repairs today, and therefore the cost of repairs given by us is conditional.

So, if you nevertheless decide to carry out the repair yourself, then let's take a closer look at how to do it.

Do-it-yourself washing machine repair begins with the preparation of the necessary tools and spare parts. Remember, the further service life of the automatic machine depends on the quality of spare parts, for this reason, do not buy cheap analogs, give preference to original parts.
So, you will need:

1. Hammer
2. Open-end wrenches of various sizes
3. Pliers
4. Metal pin
5. Screwdriver Set
6. Silicone based sealant
7. Water-repellent grease or lithol
8. Camera
9. 2 bearings
10. Stuffing box

In order to be guaranteed to purchase exactly the bearing that you need, the old one must first be removed and an identical one must be selected with it. You may need a camera to make it easier for yourself to assemble a repaired car. Before you disassemble this or that site, take a picture of it and then you will know exactly how to assemble it after repair. When shooting, pay special attention to the wiring connections.

Before replacing a bearing in a washing machine, make sure that normal lubrication will not fix the problem. It often happens that the washing machine begins to rattle from the thinning of the lubricant layer. How to lubricate a bearing in a washing machine? To lubricate this element, it must be freed from the protective caps with a scalpel. Remove the cover carefully. Lubricate the part with a special waterproof lubricant for washing machines. Next, take a new oil seal, also lubricate it and install it. Close the cover. If after these actions the noise is not eliminated, it is necessary to replace the bearing.

See also - How and what to lubricate the oil seal of the washing machine

First you need to remove the cover of the device. This is easy enough. Unscrew the two screws on the rear side panel of the cover and simply lift it up by sliding it back a little.

Next, you need to pull out the detergent tray. Pull the tray towards you and press the release latch while pulling the powder receptacle towards you. These actions should free the tray and it will easily slide out of the grooves. In some models, this button is absent, then you just need to pull the tray, pushing it down a little.

To remove the upper dashboard, you must carefully inspect it. Determine where in your model the bolts for this panel are located, and remove all of them. If after this the panel does not come off easily, then you missed one or more bolts. After the panel cover is unscrewed and easily comes out, you should disconnect all wires from the sockets and completely remove the element. Remember to photograph all parts during the disassembly process. Next, we move on to removing the bottom panel. The process should be straightforward. Using a flat-head screwdriver, press the tabs that hold the bar in place and it will easily release.

The cuff is a special rubber gasket that connects the hatch opening and the laundry drum. It is fastened very simply with a spring and a clamp.To release the cuff and gain access to the removal of the entire front panel, you need to find a clamp. It can be detected visually. To remove it, using a flat screwdriver, pry on the spring and pull out the clamp. Then, carefully detach the cuff from the hatch hole and place it in the drum. Now the part we need is completely free, you can start dismantling it.

Having clicked the door of the washing machine, you need to unscrew the bolts that hold the panel. After that, you must carefully remove it from the hook. Don't pull too hard. The panel is wired to the hatch lock. Don't damage it. As soon as you were able to push this part towards you, disconnect the wire, only then you can fully remove the front wall and free access to the rest of the device.

First you need to get rid of the inner top panel. First of all, you need to inspect the back of the machine and find the screws that secure the water supply valve. After unscrewing these fasteners, you can begin to twist the bolts on the panel. Do not rush to remove it, because you still need to carefully disconnect all the wires and pipes. When everything is disconnected, you can remove the panel itself.

Next, we move on to disconnecting the drain pipe. It is connected to the washing machine tank with a clamp. We unscrew the clamp and disconnect the drain pipe.
After that, we proceed to disconnect the heating element. In different models, it can be located in front or behind the structure. If your tubular electric heater (TEN) is in the back, you will need to remove the back wall. Carefully disconnect all connections to the heating element. Do not forget to photograph the original state before that. At this point, the wiring must be completely disconnected. Please note that in some places it can be fixed to parts of the machine using different fasteners. Having disconnected all the wires, we take them out.

Getting rid of counterweights. This must be done so that the tank is not too heavy. Unscrew them carefully. Then we disconnect the water level sensor. Shock absorbers can be detached. Armed with a wrench, unscrew the bolts holding these parts. It is best to use an extension attachment for these jobs.

Keep in mind that the tank itself is lightweight, so you do not need to make any special efforts to remove it. Put one hand into the tank and lift it up. With the other hand, release the container from the springs on which it is attached. After that, you can pull it out.

The final step is to remove the belt, unscrew the engine and shock absorbers. When completely empty, the reservoir can be disassembled to replace the bearing.

After the tank is emptied, you may notice that it has two halves. These halves are fastened together along the entire perimeter of the joint. The fasteners depend on the make and model of the washing machine, they can be bolts or special latches. You need to separate the halves. We act depending on the type of fasteners. Removing the front end can often see debris and dirty deposits. It is advisable to get rid of dirt before assembly. On the back half, you will see a drum. It is he who is our goal.

This stage is the most responsible and requires increased attention and caution. We need to carefully detach the drum. First of all, remove the pulley. Simply unscrew the fasteners holding this part and remove the pulley from the axle. After removing the pulley, screw the unscrewed bolt back. At the same time, we spare no effort so as not to spoil the shaft during further work.

We take the hammer. There is no need to be zealous at this stage, proceed with caution. We are trying to gradually knock out the shaft. If these manipulations are in vain and the shaft remains in place, it is better to replace the bolt in order to avoid damage to it. We continue to knock. As soon as the shaft is aligned with the top of the bolt, remove the bolt, and take out the drum.

We proceed to visual inspection of the sleeve and shaft. Often, with untimely repairs, these parts can wear out so much that it is necessary to replace the crosspiece. In order to assess the condition of the shaft, it should be wiped with a dry, clean cloth. After that, carefully examine it from all sides for the presence of development. To be completely sure of the integrity of the shaft, put a new bearing on it and determine if there is any play. If you still notice a flaw, without hesitation, change the shaft with a cross.

Next, inspect the bushing. It is located on the shaft and is designed to put on the stuffing box. The bushing should also not show signs of strong wear and mechanical damage. If you find strongly pronounced lateral grooves, such a part will no longer be able to fulfill its functions. An oil seal put on such a bushing will not be able to protect the bearing from water, and repair will need to be done again.

To remove the bearings, you need to remove the oil seal. It is pulled out very simply. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry up the oil seal and remove it. Next, we take a metal pin in our hands. With its help, we will knock out these elements. Putting the pin to the bearing, we hit it with a hammer. Then we hit the opposite, the blows should be in the form of a cross, on the four sides of the spare part. With this simple trick, you can knock out both bearings.

With these manipulations, keep in mind that the smaller bearing must be knocked out from the inside, and the larger one outside the tank. Also, when performing these works, be extremely careful not to damage the product. It is best to knock out by resting the part on one knee.

At the end of this step, pay attention to the back wall and the places where the bearings sit. These places should be free of dirt or debris. They should not only be cleaned, they should be polished to a high shine. Only in this case you will not have to repair the car again for a long time.

Well, now it's time to unpack the new bearings. We take the one that is smaller and hammer it in place of the removed one. We also apply the metal pin to the opposite sides, and hammer it in with light hammer blows. In order to determine whether an element has sat down in its place, listen carefully to the sound with the next blow. When the part fits properly, the sound will be more sonorous.

We carry out a similar operation to change the large bearing. Next, we move on to installing a new oil seal. It must be treated with lubricant, only then the oil seal can be put in place. Experts advise using special lubricants developed for washing machines. However, such lubricants are not always available commercially. If you have not found a lubricant, you can use grade 24 lithol. This material is freely sold in car stores.

Now you can be congratulated, the main part of the work is completed. You replaced the necessary element, it's time to put everything back into place. The first step is to lubricate and reinstall the bushing. Next, we connect the halves of the container. To ensure that the tank does not lose its tightness after assembly, it is better to change the O-ring. If you do not have one, treat the abutting edges with silicone sealant and connect the container.

Further, following the photos or just the instructions, we assemble the washing machine in the reverse order.

For many of us today, a washing machine is an integral part of housekeeping. The machine does a significant part of the work for us, giving us comfort and extra minutes of rest. However, in order to prevent your machine from breaking down at the most inopportune moment, it is recommended to carry out timely regular service. This will guarantee a long and trouble-free operation of your machine.

A washing machine is an invariable attribute of comfort in the home.Without it, washing would turn into a whole complex of physical exercises that takes both strength and time. Therefore, its repair in the event of a breakdown is an urgent matter, which, moreover, does not tolerate superficial treatment at all. Only here's the bad luck: the services of a master are very expensive, and it is not so easy to find an intelligent professional. So isn't it better to take and carry out the repair yourself? Moreover, if you are quite familiar with the structure of your washing machine and have all the necessary tools at hand.

A washing machine is a rather complicated household appliance and it works under high loads. The most vulnerable point of this household worker is the drum bearing - the part thanks to which, in fact, the washing process in the machine takes place. It is very simple to understand that the time has come to change it: in the presence of a faulty bearing, the unit begins to emit extraneous sounds during operation, which, if nothing is done, amplify over time.

A large selection of high-quality bearing products is offered by the Termopolis company -

But this is not the most unpleasant thing. If the bearing fails, the drum stops working normally. And this means that very soon the washing machine will finally break down, and you will have to pay quite a lot of money for its overhaul.

The average service life of a quality drum bearing is 6-8 years. However, due to improper operation of the machine, destruction of the stuffing box, corrosion due to leakage, etc. it breaks down much faster. That is why the unit should not be overloaded: in most cases, the causes of bearing failure are increased friction and, as a result, excessive heating of the structural elements of the part.

If you decide to replace the drum bearing yourself, you will have to do this together with the oil seal. You can buy them in a store or on the market, carefully monitoring the quality of the parts and their compliance with the model of your washing machine.

The drum bearing replacement procedure involves almost complete disassembly. For this you will need:

• pliers;
• slotted and Phillips screwdrivers (preferably of various sizes);
• a set of open-end and spanner wrenches;
• blunt chisel;
• hammer and rubber mallet;

It is better to repair the washing machine together: some parts of this household appliance are quite heavy. In this case, it is advisable to use a camera: having photographed the disassembly process, you will never make a mistake when reassembling it after replacing the bearing. In extreme cases, you can check the procedure for installing structural elements and connecting an electrician on the Internet or from your friends.

Before starting the repair, all communications of the unit must be disconnected (electricity, water supply and drainage), and the unit itself must be installed so that free access is provided from all sides. The procedure for disassembling a washing machine is determined by its design features. It is optimal to carry out it, armed with detailed instructions from the manufacturer.

Take an ARDO washing machine about a dozen years old with a clearly old, creaking and knocking bearing. In order to replace it, you must perform the following steps:

1. Remove the rear cover. To do this, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the clips that hold the water hose.
2. Remove the drive V-belt from the engine and drum pulleys.
3. Disconnect the electrical terminals, be sure to remember, or better take a photo of the order in which they are located.
4. Disconnect the water temperature sensor. It is located in a rubber grommet, the edges of which must be folded back with a screwdriver. The sensor is removed from the socket and gently swiveled to the side.
5. Loosen the heating element fastening nut to facilitate the removal of the tank cover.
6. Unscrew the drum rim clamping bolt and remove the latter.
7. Detach the cover from the drum and remove the rubber gasket.
8. Remove the cover with the drum from the body by pulling the tank down on a spring suspension.
9. Unscrew the pulley retaining nut and remove it from the transmission shaft.
10. Support the tank lid on the stand so that the drum is suspended. In order not to damage the thread, install a plate on the shaft shank and knock the drum axle out of the bearing with gentle hammer blows.

A rubber mallet works best for this job. Impacts should be applied in a measured manner to prevent flaring of the bearing housing.

1. Remove the oil seal with a screwdriver, and then the failed bearing. The latter is removed from the back of the cover using a blunt chisel and a hammer. While lightly hitting the bearing housing, care must be taken not to distort it.
2. In the same way, the second bearing from the side of the tail of the cover is removed.

New bearings are lubricated with lithol and, together with the oil seals, are pressed into their seats in the reverse order. After that, you need to put the tank cover on the drum shaft, put the pulley in place and install the cover with the drum on the body, not forgetting about the sealing gasket. Then the lid is fixed on the tank and the clamping rim is put on.

The tightening of the rim pinch bolt is performed by lightly tapping the rim along the perimeter in the direction of the lugs every 1.5-2 turns of the nut. This will ensure an even fit of this part.

Next, tighten the heating element fastening, not forgetting to put it in place. After that, the temperature sensor and electrical terminals are mounted, but the next step is to install the belt on the engine and drum pulleys. Next, you should start installing the back cover of the washing machine, upon completion of which the latter can be considered ready for use.

To replace a bearing in a washing machine of this brand, you must:

1. Open the back and top covers.
2. Remove the drive belt from the engine and drum pulley.
3. Block the pulley.

To do this, you need a wooden block that allows you to carefully unscrew the screw that holds the pulley and remove the last without damaging it.

1. Dismantle the counterweight and the spacer bar, which closes access to the clamp and the tank cover.
2. Disable heating element.
3. Remove the bearing assembly fasteners and the grounding bar, then loosen and remove the clamp.
4. Open the tank cap without throwing out the seal.

The screws that secure the bearing assembly are often too long from the manufacturer and are simply cut off. It is necessary to remove the tank lid so as not to damage the wire of the temperature sensor - unnecessary work and costs due to its breakage are not needed by anyone.

1. Remove tank and bearing assembly. To remove the latter, you need to get the oil seal. The bearing is removed with a hammer and chisel.

The seat of the bearing assembly should be carefully inspected. If there are traces of rust or debris, they must be removed, and if leaks are found, their sources must be eliminated. After that, you can start reassembling the washing machine.

The installation of a new bearing unit in washing machines of this brand is carried out in the order already familiar to us. Of course, after disconnecting it from all communications. So:

1. We unscrew the tension screw of the clamp holding the drain pipe, and disconnect the latter from the tank.
2. We open the contacts of the electric motor of the machine and remove the drive belt.
3. We loosen the screws securing the engine, then gently slide it off the runners and holding it remove it, having previously unscrewed the screws.
4. Disconnect the contacts from the TEN and the wiring from the tank.
5. Unscrew the screws securing the top cover and remove it from the case.
6. We take out the dispenser and unscrew the screws that fix the control panel.
7. Disconnect the second pair of fixing screws and remove the panel. Start from the side of the dispenser hopper, and then remove the lower part.
8. Remove the tension spring.

To do this, you need to find it by probing the cuff around the perimeter. The spring must be pry off with a screwdriver, gently pull on it and remove it together with a previously loosened clamp. After that, the cuff should be disconnected from the body and the hatch lock removed.

1. Disconnect the plinth panel with a screwdriver. This opens up access to the fasteners on the front wall of the washing machine. You need to unscrew its screws, and remove it itself.
2. We unscrew the front bolts of the lower counterweight and remove it, after which we proceed to remove the upper counterweight.
3. We remove the plastic clamp, and then move the dispenser hopper to the back of the machine.
4. We remove the tube of the pressure switch relay from the tank.
5. Disconnect the suspension system, which consists of shock absorbers and a spring.

You should start with shock absorbers, which are attached with the upper end to the tank, and the lower end to the bottom of the case. It is enough to remove only the upper one.

1. We remove the tank and disassemble it, starting with the pulley.
2. We remove the bearing block and replace them with new ones, while not forgetting about the lubrication and uniformity of the fit.

After pressing in the bearing assembly, you can proceed to reassemble the Ariston washing machine. If everything was done correctly, you will not have any "unnecessary" details, and the equipment itself will serve for a long time and properly.