Do-it-yourself eyelid washing machine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself eyelid washing machine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Unscrew the two screws securing the cover to the case;
Remove the cover by sliding it back and then lifting it up.

- Remove the five screws securing the cover to the body;
- Tilt the cover 90 ° in relation to the body and release it from the slots.

Turn the panel fixing screws 90 ° to the left and remove it.

By pressing the hatch door open button, the hatch is opened;
Using pliers, remove the clamps with which the hatch seal is attached to the front panel (Fig. 1);

Rice. one. Removing the hatch door seal

Separate the hatch seal from the front panel;
Unscrew the two screws that secure the hatch door lock to the front panel (pos. b in fig. one);
Remove the lower decorative panel;
Unscrew the screws with which the front panel is attached to the machine body (Fig. 2);

Rice. 2. Front panel fixing screws

By sliding the front panel down, separate it from the machine body (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3... Removing the front panel

By pressing the hatch door open button, the hatch is opened;
Unscrew the two screws that secure the hatch door to the hinge.

Remove the hatch door;
Insert the slot of a flat screwdriver into the gap from the hinge side and remove the inner rim from the clamps fixing it.

Remove the hatch door and inner rim;
Remove the two screws on the inner rim;
Remove the latch clip from the axle on the inner rim of the door.

Remove the hatch door;
Remove the clamp with which the hatch seal is attached to the front panel;
Remove the hatch seal;

Unscrew the two screws that secure the hinge to the front panel (pos. With in fig. one).

Remove both handles by pulling them towards you (when reassembling, pay attention to the position of the thermostat axis).

Video (click to play).

Pull out the bin for detergents;
By clicking on the siphon, the bunker is completely removed;
Turning the hopper over, remove the panel by pressing the fixing latches with a screwdriver.

Remove the detergent bin;
Remove the handles of the thermostat and spacecraft;
Unscrew the screw fixing the control panel (pos. a, rice. 4);
Remove the control panel from the clamps securing it to the carrier panel.

Rice. 4. Control panel fixing screw

Remove the top cover and control panel;
Unscrew the screws securing the detergent dispenser, disconnect the electrical wires suitable for the carrier panel;
Unscrew the 6 screws securing the carrier panel to the body and remove the panel.

Remove the top cover and detergent hopper;
Remove the handles of the thermostat and spacecraft;
Remove the control panel;
Unscrew the screw on the spacecraft axis (Fig. 5);

Pulling the cam towards itself, remove it from the axis (Fig. 6);

Rice. 6. Dismantling of spacecraft

Unscrew the two screws that fasten the spacecraft to the carrier panel (pos. A, fig. 6);
Turning the spacecraft, one by one they remove the wires from it.

Remove the top cover and detergent hopper;
Remove the handles of the thermostat and spacecraft;
Remove the control panel;
Unscrew the two screws with which the thermostat is attached to the support panel;
Remove the screw that secures the wiring harness. Removing the clamps from the tourniquet releases the capillary tube. Remove the thermostat flask from the nest in the tank (pos. a, rice. 7).

Rice. 7. Mounting the heating element and the thermostat flask

Remove the front panel;
Remove the screw that secures the wiring harness;
Unscrew the screw that secures the level switch (pos. B in Fig. 8);

Rice. eight. Level switch and hatch door lock

Disconnect the wires from the level switch;
Turn the level switch 90 ° and remove it from the bracket.

Remove the top cover and detergent hopper;
Remove the handles of the thermostat and spacecraft;
Remove the control panel;
Remove button covers;
Remove the buttons from the sockets on the front panel carrier;
Disconnect the wires.

(When reassembling, the scales are inserted into the latches and turned so that the recess in the rear lower part of the scales is directed downward. In this case, the thermostat or KA knob is turned so that the slot on the handle is directed upward. Pay attention to the correct installation of the scales.)

Remove the top cover;
Disconnect the wires from the EMC filter;
Unscrew the two screws in the plastic box located at the rear wall of the machine case, which secure the noise suppression filter;
Remove the filter by loosening the M8 pin.

Remove the top cover;
Disconnect the wires from the EC;
Move back the clamp on the EC hose and remove the hose;
Pressing a screwdriver on the latch that secures the valve to the machine body, turn the EC counterclockwise and remove it.

By pressing the button for opening the hatch door, open the hatch;
Remove the clamp with which the hatch seal is attached to the front panel, and separate the seal (Fig. 1);
Unscrew the two screws with which the lock is attached to the machine body (pos. a, rice. one);
Remove the front panel;
Remove the cable from the lock (pos. A, fig. 8);
Remove the lock from the socket;
Disconnect the wires.

Remove the top cover and front panel;
Remove the clamp fastening the sleeve, along which the lock wire passes;
Pulling downwards, pull together the cable sleeve. Detach the cable from the lock;
Squeeze out the plastic latches of the lock and pull out the cable.

Remove the front panel;
Disconnect the wires (pos. B, fig. 7);
Loosen the M6 bolt and remove the heating element from the tank cover (pos. With, rice. 7).

(When re-installing the heating element, make sure that it falls into the fixing bracket.)

Remove the front panel;
Disconnect the wires (pos. A, fig. 9);
Disconnect the hose from the tank and the drain hose (pos. C, fig. 9);
Unscrew the screw that secures the pump to the machine body (pos. And, Fig. 9);
Turning the pump, remove it.

Rice. 9. Removing the drain pump

Remove the front panel;
Remove the thermostat flask from the tank lid;
Carefully (without using tools) remove the thermostat bulb seal from the hole in the tank lid (pos. a, rice. 7);

(When reassembling, make sure that the seal fits properly in the hole in the tank lid.)

Remove the front panel;
Loosen the tightening of the fastening clamp;
Carefully (without the use of tools) remove the hatch seal.

Read also: DIY dexp TV repair

(When reassembling, make sure that the holes for the seal are on the bottom of the tank lid.)

Remove the front panel;
Having wrung out the wire fastening clamp, remove the tube from the connection of the detergent dispenser;

- Gently (without using tools) pull out the tube.

Remove the front and decorative panels and the top cover;
Remove the pressure take-off tube from the level switch;
Remove the clamp securing the water supply pipe to the tank nozzle;
Remove the spring clamp from the pump nozzle and cut the plastic clamp securing the water supply pipe to the tank;
Remove the water supply tube.

Before reinstalling the belt, clean the pulley from dirt.

Remove the back cover and drive belt (fig. 10);
Unscrew the bolt securing the pulley to the tank shaft (pos. B, Fig. 10);
Remove the pulley from the shaft.

Do not reuse the bolt securing the pulley to the drum shaft. When assembling the machine, it is necessary to replace the bolt with a new one.

Rice. 10. Removing the drive belt

Remove the back cover and drive belt (fig. 10);
Remove the power connector from the electric motor;
Unscrew the bolt securing the electric motor to the tank;
Remove the electric motor from the shock-absorbing suspension.

Disconnect the power cord;
Remove the terminal box cover by pressing the latches on both sides (Fig. 11);
Loosen the screw securing the power cord;
Remove the screw securing the ground wire;
Unscrew the terminal screws and disconnect the power cord.

Rice. eleven... Removing the terminal box cover

Remove the front panel;
Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the counterweight;
Remove the 12 clips holding the front tank cover and remove the cover.

Remove the front panel;
Remove the lower counterweight, heating element and thermostat flask;
Remove the clamps from the tank cover;
Remove the tank cover and put it horizontally with the seal facing up;
Remove the seal.

(When reassembling, the seam of the seal must line up with the tank cap mounting piece.)

Remove the back cover;
Remove the finger from the shock absorber attachment to the tank by pressing the latches on the sharp end of the pin (pos. A, Fig. 12);
Remove the finger from the shock absorber attachment to the washing machine body (Fig. 12).

Rice. 12. Shock absorber mount

Remove the front panel;
Having wrung out the fastening clamp on the inlet of the drain pump, slide it back (pos. With, rice. 9);
Remove the drain hose from the pump;
Remove the drain hose fasteners on the back of the machine body;

Attention: there is residual water in the hose.

Remove the drain hose from the front of the washing machine.

The article was prepared based on the materials of the "Repair and Service" magazine

Repair of automatic washing machines is a rather complicated process and requires high qualifications, if it is difficult for you to carry out the repair yourself - contact the repair service in Moscow

All the best, write

The washing machine is considered one of the most important types of equipment in every home. CMAs from the Beko company, produced in various types at reasonable prices, are popular. Like other equipment, cars from this company are not considered eternal and can also break down at the wrong time.
The masters claim that the VEKO machines are equipped with not very high-quality parts, which include a management board, a temperature sensor, and a relay. The repair of such machines does not always justify itself, and the consumer is forced to purchase a new washing machine. But sometimes the problems are not too serious, it is quite possible to eliminate them on our own. So it is worthwhile to deal with typical failures and understand how the repair of Beko washing machines is carried out.

Professional repairmen of washing machines can, after observing the working equipment, name a unit or element that has failed or will soon break down and will require repair. Everything is simple - problems have begun with a washing machine, you immediately need to call a specialist and a workshop so that he can identify the cause and, with a successful combination of circumstances, carry out repairs on the spot. It seems that everything is easy and simple, and there is no headache. Yes, and such an act in some situations is fully justified.

But there is one caveat - a call to the master's house will cost you a tidy sum. It often happens that paying for repair services is more expensive than purchasing a new automatic washing machine. It is a shame to pay money in this case, especially when there is no opportunity to quickly make a new purchase. But there is one way out - to carry out the repair with your own hands. True, you will have to correctly determine the failure, and the main signs of breakdowns will help in this:

there is no water heating, or it heats up very much, violating the set temperature regime;

water enters the tank for a long time, or does not drain at all;

the door does not close tightly, which does not allow starting the washing process;

after the process, the waste water does not go into the sewer, the machine hums strongly;

when the drum rotates, a strong grinding, clanging and other extraneous noises are heard;

not a single program starts, because after switching on, all the lights on the panel blink. The second option - the program can be exposed, but not activated;

the washing machine from the start button does not turn on;

the display shows an error code.

If you notice that the washing process takes place in cold water, violating the set program, you can suspect a breakdown of the heating element or the control board. A similar conclusion is reached when water overheats, practically reaching its boiling point. Most likely, the whole problem is in the board, but the heating element also needs to be checked.

After starting the program, water should begin to flow into the tub for washing, and the intensity of this process depends on the set program. But when you do not visually observe the water in the tank, and the drum rotates with dry things, or after a while the machine simply “freezes”, then you should look for one of the following reasons:

there is no water in the water supply;

clogging of the filter located at the base of the intake hose;

the water intake valve has failed;

breakdown of the control unit.

The BEKO machine is designed in such a way that it will never start washing until the door is closed tightly and a special sensor-blocker sends the required signal to the control board. If the hatch does not close at all, or it seems to be closed, but the wash has not started, it is necessary to inspect the blockage. It may have broken down and cannot hold the door. The second problem is the sensor itself. If it's all about the latch, try pushing lightly on the hatch and try to activate the wash program.

Read also: Do-it-yourself repair error 8
When the washing process is completed, the machine must drain the dirty water and draw in fresh water in order to rinse. This process is accompanied by a hum produced by the drain pump. The water is drained out quickly enough, then the machine takes in a new amount of liquid. But if some time has passed, and the washing machine has not drained the waste water and "hangs", or the pump hums, but the water does not come off, then problems should be looked for in:

pump for draining water;

a board responsible for managing processes;

a blockage in the drain hose or sewer pipe.

When the washing machine emits a characteristic clang, rattle and knock during operation, it is quite possible that the bearings are out of order, or a foreign object has got into the tank, getting stuck between it and the drum. In this case, the machine should be turned off immediately and all measures should be taken to fix the problem.

The SMA may not turn on at all, or it blinks with all the lights, and turning it on again does not give a positive result. In this case, the problems may be related to:

breakage of the starting button of the machine;

failure of the management block;

a break in the power cord.

The best option is when the washing machine not only refuses to work, but gives out a certain error code. With its help, you can immediately understand what the problem is.

Let's figure out how to repair Beko washing machines on our own.

You should be aware that after washing on a machine, the waste water is not clean and transparent. To prevent various small debris and dirt from clogging the pump, a special filter is installed in front of it, which in most cases becomes clogged. The main task is to find this element, which is usually located at the bottom of the machine, under a small hatch or panel.

Further actions should take place in the following sequence:

To cope with such a failure, you will have to partially disassemble the washing machine again. But first, it should be noted that in all machines, the thermoelectric heater is among the weakest units. People call it a simple word - heating element. The mineral components in the pipes under the influence of hot water begin to crystallize and accumulate on the heater with ordinary scale. Plaque does not allow heat to pass to the water, so the heating element burns out. But if the water in the pipes is soft, and scale does not appear, or you use special means, then the heating element is still able to burn out, since it has its own working resource.

In order to be sure exactly what happened to the heating element, you need to get to it. The peculiarity is that in different models it is located both in the front and in the back. For the first case, the actions are as follows:

the front panel of the machine is removed. But first it is necessary to remove the cuff from the door. You must act carefully so as not to damage it;

in front of you there will be two contacts with wiring connected to them, which must be disconnected;

using a tester, you need to check the resistance. At the norm, its value will be from 25 to 30 ohms. In other cases, we can confidently assume that the heating element has failed;

unscrew the nut from the bolt holding the heating element under the drum, carefully pull out the heating element;

we clean the place for its installation from plaque and accumulated debris;

we install a new analogue, we connect the wires.

If the heating device is working properly, check the temperature sensor located under the top panel.

unscrew the screws and remove the top panel;

the sensor is dismantled along with the detergent tray and the control panel, since all this creates obstacles in order to get to the element of interest to us;

having opened access to the sensor, it is necessary to disconnect all wires from it;

check the resistance. Normally, it should be 4.7 kOhm;

the sensor must be held in a container with warm water - the resistance indicator should decrease. Otherwise, the element must be replaced;

the new sensor is installed in place, all work is carried out in reverse order.

DIY electrical and electronics repair.

If you have special knowledge and the necessary experience in the repair of electrical appliances, then you can eliminate contact breakage or terminal oxidation rather quickly. All that is required is the electrical wiring diagram of the machine, which can be found in the instruction manual.

But with electronics, not everything is so simple. Repairing or replacing the management board requires specialized knowledge and experience. Considering the cost of a new module, you should not try to repair it yourself. It is better in this case to invite a master who will do everything himself.

Vibration of the washing machine.

During the operation of the unit for washing things, in particular - during the spinning cycle, the machine gives out a strong vibration, starts "jumping" in different directions. Pay attention to how much laundry is loaded. Vibration is possible if the maximum rate is exceeded. Another recommendation is to check how correctly the support legs of the MCA are set. They are leveled so that the apparatus does not wobble. Experts advise using special stands when installing the machine.

As a result, we can conclude that the BEKO washing machine is quite reliable, but it is also capable of breaking. Calling a foreman can be quite expensive, so you need to try to carry out the repair work yourself.

Be aware that if you are a user of a Beko washing machine with a maximum load of five kilograms, then all its faults will be similar to models designed for three kilograms of things. And in order for the machine to work flawlessly for a long time, we recommend that you carefully study the requirements of the operating instructions and follow all of its rules.

Despite the fact that imported washing machines serve flawlessly for more than 10-15 years, users often turn to service centers to repair Beko washing machines.

Read also: Do-it-yourself gas equipment repair on a car
In most cases, the problems are of a minor nature, so we suggest considering cases when you can carry out repairs yourself without any problems.

Having entrusted the inspection of the machine to an experienced master, you can be sure that he will quickly and professionally find what the problem is.But due to the high prices for services, many home craftsmen are trying to save money and make repairs to the Beko washing machine with their own hands.

Almost any SMA model lends itself to home repair: ELB 57001 M, RKB 58801 MA, LNU 68801, etc.

This approach is quite justified - often repairs cost exorbitant prices, and sometimes the price is such that you can buy a new machine. At the same time, even the most "killed" car can serve for several more years after being repaired.

Don't want to throw away your Veko machine and buy a new one? Try to figure out the problem yourself and fix it yourself.

The design of the Beko washing machine also determines the nature of its breakdowns. Consider the typical malfunctions of this brand of washing machines:

The water does not heat up to the set temperatures, the wash goes in cold water in any program. Or vice versa - the water overheats.

Water is slowly drawn into the tank or not filled at all.

The Beko washing machine does not start because the door does not close tightly enough.

There is water in the tub at the end of the wash (this may be accompanied by a strong hum).

The drum rotates with grinding, crashing, clanking and other uncharacteristic sounds.

Not a single wash mode starts - all the lights on the machine blink. Or the program works, the indicator lights up, but the machine does not wash.

The machine cannot be started with the power button (with the power cord plugged in).

Models with an electronic scoreboard issue error codes H1, H2, H3, H4, H5, H6 and H7. The machine does not work.

Important! There may be other signs of failure. We have considered the most frequently encountered among users of SM Beko in Russia.

As mentioned earlier, all malfunctions are accompanied by certain symptoms - from minor malfunctions to complete failure. The problem of a home craftsman always lies in one thing - how to connect the existing signs of a breakdown with its causes. Here you just need the knowledge and advice of narrow specialists.

Below we will summarize information about the main breakdowns.

If you know how to use a Beko washing machine, then you know that the water used up after washing is never clear and clean - this is the specificity of washing. To prevent dirt, threads, hair, etc. from clogging the pump, there is a special drain filter on the way to it, which mainly suffers from blockages.

Your task is to find this filter, which is usually located at the bottom of the washer, under a small hatch or behind a panel. How to proceed next:

Before removing the filter, do not forget to substitute a basin or place a rag under the machine, because the remaining waste water will surely pour out of the hole.

In a number of Beko models, along with the filter, an emergency drain hose is also included - with its help it is much more convenient to drain water into any container.

To remove the filter, simply turn it to the right.

Next, clean the filter by hand and rinse under the tap.

Armed with a screwdriver, you can also clean the pipe at the same time - it is usually also clogged with debris from the waste water.

Once you have tools at hand, do not rush to put them away - for prevention, clean the filter that is on the water supply (it is located at the point where the hose is attached to the back panel). Sand and rust from the piping slowly collects in this filter and eventually interferes with the normal flow of water into the drum.

After cleaning the filler filter, do not rush to put it back in place - also check the drain pump. Often, Beko's washing machines, during self-diagnosis, find a pump breakdown and signal this using the H5 fault code. But with some breakdowns, the controller may not see minor violations - such as a loose impeller (can be recognized by hearing a hum).

To check the pump, start the drain mode and look through the hole in the filter plug to see how the impeller behaves. If it rotates, then everything is in order, and if not, then you need to clean or even replace the pump.

To eliminate such a problem, you will also need at least partial disassembly of the Beko washing machine, but more on that below.

First, let's say that one of the most vulnerable nodes in the SM is a thermoelectric heater, simply a heating element. The mineral salts present in the water crystallize under the influence of hot water and settle on the heater in the form of a familiar scale - like in a kettle. Plaque does not allow heat to pass through, so the heating element does not give it to water and burns out.

If there is no scale, you have soft water, or you use special products, this does not mean that the heater could not burn out. The heating element has its own resource of production, and, perhaps, its time has just come.

If the heating element fails, you will learn about it by errors H2 and H3. To be 100% sure what happened to him, first get to the heater. In some Beko models it is at the back, in others at the front.

So, how to disassemble a Beko washing machine, find a heating element, check and replace it, read on:

If the heating element is in front, then in order to remove the front panel, you need to remove the hatch cuff. To remove it, proceed carefully - if something goes wrong, then your activity is fraught with damage to the cuff and leaks.

You will not see the heating element in its entirety - only its shank with two contacts and wires going to them.

Disconnect all wires.

Take a tester and measure the resistance. Typically 25-30 ohms are normal. If the indicators are different (for example, infinity), then the breakdown is obvious.

Remove the heating element by unscrewing the nut from the bolt that holds it under the drum.

Clean the installation site of debris and deposits.

Install the new heating element in the reverse order, reconnecting all the wiring.

Read also: DIY washing machine power supply repair
This video shows, in strict sequence, how to remove, check and replace the heating element:

If the heating element turned out to be Spanish, then you need to check the temperature sensor (thermistor). You will find it under the top cover. How to get and check the sensor:

Remove the top cover by unscrewing the screws.

Dismantling of the sensor is carried out with the removal of the cuvette for detergents and the control panel - all this interferes with getting to the element. Once you reach the sensor, free it from the wires.

The resistance measured by the tester should be 4.7 kOhm in room conditions.

Heat the sensor in a glass of warm water - after that the readings should drop. If this does not happen, the sensor needs to be changed.

The installation of a new sensor is carried out in the same way as removal, only proceed in the reverse order.

If you have the knowledge and experience in repairing electrical devices, then you will quickly eliminate breaks in contacts or their oxidation. You only need a diagram of the Beko washing machine - you will find it in the manual or on the manufacturer's website, indicating the model of your CM.

As for electronics, everything is ambiguous here.

Repair or replacement of an electronic controller (control board) requires specialized knowledge and rich experience.

Considering that an electronic module can cost as much as a third of your washing machine, it is not profitable to engage in amateur activities. Especially if the board needed minor repairs, which any master will perform for little money. If you "condemn" the module, then you will have to buy a new one, and an innocent breakdown will result in complex and expensive repairs.

Remember that it doesn't matter what characteristics your machine is designed for - they break in exactly the same way. If you received a 5 kg Beko washing machine, the faults will be the same as in a similar 3 kg model. To prevent the Beko washing machine from breaking, we advise you to use the operating instructions and follow the rules prescribed there.

Most users of washing machines noted the reliability of their home units, which were made 10-15 years ago.But even those machines with their good quality of parts and assembly do not have an infinite resource of work, and sometime these machines still break down. Repair of the washing machine VEKO, Indiesit, Ariston and other devices from other manufacturing companies no longer always justifies itself and you need to buy a new washing device.
But sometimes the problem is not as serious as we could imagine it, and you can fix it yourself, so you can prolong the life of your beloved assistant. For this reason, today we will consider typical breakdowns and algorithms of actions for home repair of VEKO washing machines.

It might seem that if there are certain problems with the machine, then you should immediately call the master at home, and he will deal with the causes of breakdown and discomfort in working with the device. All this is easy, fast and without unnecessary hassle, therefore, in most cases, such a course of actions of the owner of a broken washing machine is quite appropriate and justified.
But nothing happens without a fly in the ointment in a barrel of honey: calling the master at home costs a lot of money, which sometimes is simply not in stock or in large quantities.

It often happens that repairing a VEKO washing machine is more expensive than a brand new machine of the same model. It's a shame to pay so much money to fix an old car, especially if you can't afford to buy a new car yet.

The only sure and not so expensive way out is to fix the breakdown with your own hands. But for a well-performed repair, you first need to correctly diagnose, i.e. find the true cause of the breakdown, and only after that start something to "treat".

The following "symptoms" of a malfunction of the VEKO machines will help you find a solution to the problem.

The water is not heated, and washing is carried out in cold water, or, on the contrary, washing takes place in very hot water, which does not correspond to the temperature at which it should have been heated.

Water is drawn into the washing tub for a very long time, or the water access is completely blocked and does not work.

It is impossible to close the hatch to the end, which is why the washing cannot begin simply.

At the end of the wash, the water simply does not drain, and this process can be accompanied by a fairly strong hum.

The drum of the VECO washing device, when rotating, emits a loud rattle, clank and other extraneous sounds.

Can't start any programs st
irki, because after turning on the machine immediately starts blinking with all the light indicators. It also happens that the program is exposed, but simply does not start.

The machine does not respond to turning on the button, although the plug is plugged into the outlet and there are no faults with the electricity supply.

VEKO machines with a display give out an error code and simply "refuse" to work.

We advise you to pay attention! There can be many more malfunction symptoms, but the most common malfunctions are described above.

As we have already noted above, malfunctions of washing units can easily give out this with their external symptoms with improper operation or complete failure. But how can these breakdowns be correctly associated with certain breakdowns? Here you will already need some knowledge and advice from leading experts, which we will gladly present in this article.

If you notice that wash is done in cold water instead of the set 40
or 60 degrees - this speaks of breakdown of a water heating element (heating element), or control boards.

You can come to this conclusion if you set the washing temperature at 30 degrees Celsius, and the machine persistently brings it to a boil, thereby mercilessly spoiling your delicate fabrics. In this case, a case with a board malfunction is more likely than a heating element, but just in case, check both.

Read also: DIY sprut pump repair

When starting a program, the machine should start filling its tank with water.All this will happen with different intensities, which directly depends on the washing mode you have chosen. In order to take a look at the process of filling with water, look through the window of the tank. But if you notice that after twenty or thirty minutes, the machine may freeze and stop the execution of the program, giving some kind of error code. This development of events is characterized by four different reasons:

The lack of water in the water supply system is easy to check if you just go into the bathroom and try to turn on the tap.

Clogged water filter, which is located at the base of the inlet hose (if you have one, of course).

Breakage of the filler valve.

Control unit element malfunction.

When the appearance problems with the sunroof locking device you need to gently press down on this hatch with your knee and turn on the desired wash program again, because there is a possibility that the fixing hook simply does not reach the end of the desired part and the fixation does not have time to take place.

After the washing program is completed, the washing device should itself begin to rinse off the soapy water and pour fresh water for rinsing. This process is usually accompanied by the hum of the drain pump.

Draining takes place quite quickly, after which the machine again begins to collect clean and fresh water. If the machine cannot drain the water in any way, and then it just stops and freezes, silt
and she tries to drain the water, the pump begins to hum more, but the drain does not start, then the problem is as follows:
In the pump.

In blockages in the sewage system or in the drain hose.

In the management board.

If the machine makes a lot of noise, and the drum rotates with a terrible grinding, clanking and knocking, then perhaps in the VEKO washing machine bearings broke or a standard body of foreign origin made of metal got into the tank, got stuck between the walls and the wall began to wedge. This kind of breakdown must be immediately eliminated by first turning off the machine.
Clean the drain filter by removing dirt, debris, etc. from there, which causes inconvenience in the operation of the machine.
Replace the drain pump, but only when you are sure that the old pump is already completely out of order.

Change the intake valve. To get started, first make sure that the problem is not with the board at all.

Replace heating element.

In VEKO TEN washing machines, it often deteriorates, especially if these are still domestic models with a load of six kilograms.It is not difficult to make a replacement with your own hands, because the main thing is that all actions are carried out according to the recommendations of specialists.

The heating element in VEKO machines is located in the back of the tank, so first remove the rear panel, having previously unscrewed a few bolts.

After removing the wall, we will see a pulley (a decent-sized round wheel), just below which is the heating element.

We take out the desired key and unscrew the fasteners, disconnecting the wires from the contacts.

We make an effort, but still carefully pull the heating element out of the groove.

We buy the same replacement part.

We insert the heating element and do not forget to fasten it.

We connect the wires back, fasten the back wall back and check the result of our painstaking work.

It is often expensive to invite a specialist, so do it only, but in the case when you yourself did not succeed in anything normally or the breakdown is very serious. In all other cases, you can save money and fix everything with your own hands.

Video (click to play).