DIY trunk rack repair

In the open spaces of the forum, there are different ways to relieve pressure from the rack before disassembling, but there is not a single detailed one. Write who does it and how, in detail, so to speak "competitively", so that later it would not be offensive for the newly made repair, or even worse - a damaged eye.

Fine drill bit and drill at low speeds. True, I disassembled a shrunken gas strut. Other things, the GP from the office chair understood the same way.
Drilled so that the future hole would be located above the oil level

If you are afraid for the eyes, put on a protective screen cut out of cardboard on the drill. However, I drilled without everything and there was nothing but zilch.

A Th to be wise then? Drilled - pricked with a needle. Not pierced - I drilled yet. Drill 1-1.5 mm. I used to drill with a 0.25 bit, but it's hard not to break it

... It is drilled where it will be cut off.
And so, my grandfather sawed such a rack on the balcony, with a file in a circle. Then he told how someone with a rifle jumped at him and showed a bruise ... Well at least he said what he was doing, otherwise I would have believed.

Where is the sealing ring on the stem plug? I ask you about the need to keep the maximum pipe length. Where to drill?
Here are two pictures:

quote: Originally posted by Fake:

Drilled so that the future hole would be located above the oil level

By the way, how much of this oil is there, what to prepare for?

quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:

By the way, how much of this oil is there, what to prepare for?

I honestly don't remember. I drilled the rack already flowing, there was a little oil in it, a maximum of a cube. You let her lie down in a horizontal position, so that the oil from the top wall of the glass to the maximum. As the air bleeds off, the oil will no longer flow, it will only ooze.
Cover the pipe with rags if you are afraid to get something dirty, but I don't think they will come in handy.
I won't tell you the place of drilling - I drilled in the middle, I just wondered what was inside

quote: Originally posted by Fake:

You let her lie down in a horizontal position, so that the oil from the top wall of the glass to the maximum.

I don’t understand why horizontally and not vertically? Up that end where you will drill, the oil will drain down, then clamp it vertically in a vice as well, and hold the drill horizontally while drilling. Or is it somehow related to the design feature of the rack? What's in the gut in general? As far as I understand, its design is similar to gas. spring for PPP, or not?

Yes, they drilled her J. ny and the whole business

... Butter there is no more than a couple of cubes. Do not be afraid of it while you drill it will all flow down ... The hole will definitely not have it.

quote: Originally posted by Strelok-mod79:

Yes, they drilled her J. ny and the whole business

Is Zh. Pa made of the same thin sheet, or is the "sleeve" welded there? If there is a sleeve, then with a 1mm drill, drill for. Xia

.

Judging by the photo - the rack is pulled, from a round penny, like a 12 g can. It means that it is a little thicker than the walls, but not by much.

Drilled. it turned out “the devil is not so terrible. "

The drill was really stupid, did not sharpen, drilled somewhere for about 3 minutes, and watched a movie on TV in parallel , when "pshiknulo" did not even have time to get scared - I was distracted. By the way, "pshik" looks like if you hold the fitting of an automobile pump with your finger, swing and release the fitting, that is, the sound is quite quiet and nothing is splattered with oil.
If anyone is interested, after a complete disassembly I will post a photo of the giblets, if not, I'll crash Temko.

this shrunken post (it was easily pushed through) was bled off by a dirty but safe method - the rod in the place under the number “1” was ground off on emery, then it was pressed against the floor with the rod and pressed down. blew naturally down the machined rod along with oil =) well, it was all done in the garage in old rags. the next one was disassembled by FILLING it with a hacksaw in the place under the number “2”. sawing the current at one point (and not in a circle.) Or, even easier, it is drilled with a thin 1mm drill.how it hissed - we don’t get scared and don’t throw it (if in a vice, you can cover it with a rag and step aside. =)

be sure to use safety glasses.

quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:

By the way, "pshik" looks like if you hold the fitting of an automobile pump with your finger, swing and release the fitting,

But how it hisses if you drill with a 0.25 drill

.

quote: Originally posted by REACT:

here is this shrunken rack (easily pushed through)

Her, mine was pressed only if I put one end on the floor, and press on the other with almost my whole body, and my body is not small, over a hundred

... quote: Originally posted by REACT:

the stock at number “1” is ground on emery,

This method never crossed my mind. but if I did, I wouldn't do that - it's a pity for the stock

.
quote: Originally posted by Strelok-mod79:

But how it hisses if you drill with a 0.25 drill.

I drilled with a 1.5mm drill.

quote: Originally posted by Strelok-mod79:

Butter there is no more than a couple of cubes.

Not a fig, "a couple of cubes", there are all 7-8, if not properly disassembled, all this will fly into physics, and even under pressure.

quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:

Not a fig, "a couple of cubes", there are all 7-8, if not properly disassembled, all this will fly into physics, and even under pressure.

I analyzed the new Finwhals and the old Soviet ones - there wasn’t so much oil there.

At one time, it was drilled into a hairpin along its axis. A small puff and a drop of oil. Everything!

Above promised giblets photos:

But I think from different types and manufacturers, and the giblets will be slightly different.

disassembled, making a cut, like REACT from the first to the ceiling of the workshop gave a strong fountain of oil in an aerosol state, so the second rack sawed, wrap the sawing site with a rag (both racks were shrunk)

DENI-KIN And what is the wall thickness?

Internal D 16.1 (2) mm., Wall 1.6 (7) mm., But from the outside it is painted, so you can safely take away a couple of dozen.

It will not be enough

I thought it would be thicker.

Well, it depends on what for

, for example: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/644/topic/30/453780.html
The main thing is that the pipe is solid-drawn, made of rather viscous but good metal, and also - it is polished inside like a cat's. , and is suitable for many of our purposes. Vitaly, you shouldn't doubt its durability, when you sawed off the ass with a hacksaw, I thought the canvas was bald, but the canvas is practically new, and even when you pick it up, you feel it is a thing , there is something in it. the reliability is directly felt.

quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:
Well, it depends on what for , for example: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/644/topic/30/453780.html
The main thing is that the pipe is solid-drawn, made of rather viscous but good metal, and also - it is polished inside like a cat's. , and is suitable for many of our purposes. Vitaly, you shouldn't doubt its durability, when you sawed off the ass with a hacksaw, I thought the canvas was bald, but the canvas is practically new, and even when you pick it up, you feel it is a thing , there is something in it. the reliability is directly felt.

Viscous means soft, the ear will stretch. Konstantin just talked about this, that metal drags on.

quote: Originally posted by Avizenna:

Konstantin just talked about this, that metal drags on.

Well, there are how many points there were (if about a link). If he is not red-hot, then IMHO anyone will drag on, the question is at what strength and how much, until the rupture.

quote: Originally posted by Avizenna:
It will not be enough I thought it would be thicker.
you can ask why is not enough?

quote: Originally posted by Avizenna:

It will not be enough I thought it would be thicker.

No need to be greedy

... Finval has a 1.4 mm wall, and nothing tears or pulls anywhere.

at one time, just sawed with a hacksaw. zilch and everything flowed out. the material is soft, viscous.

By the way, I have been looking at the piston on the rod for two days and cannot understand how it works

.If the pressure is pumped up in front of the piston, then logically, when the rod is pressed, the force should increase, but it is constant throughout the entire movement of the rod. it means that it flows over the piston, which by the way confirms the “squelching” of oil in the inside when the rod is pressed, then how it flows back after the rod is released. I don't understand anything.
Sorry for the half-off.

There are grooves on the piston and two holes on each side along the washer, so they give a smooth flow, I forgot, but somehow it is, here in the winter, somehow the air between the washers got caught in the teeth with a trunk lid.

there is a tiny hole in the piston for throttling or without a hole, but then the stop wall with a longitudinal groove.

2 Jonk and Vado123
This is all clear and visible, I myself disassembled the piston and it lies on the front. Yes, there are throttling holes there, and the pressure apparently flows through (through) the piston, but how then does the rod with the piston come back? Indeed, after compression and overflow of pressure behind the piston, it must press the piston with the same force from the back side, from the side of the rod, and it must remain in place. and he comes back.

Yes, nothing presses on the piston at all. it is needed there only for throttling and centering the rod relative to the stop cylinder.
the stops, like the GP, work due to the fact that the compressed gas tends to push the rod out of the cylinder. If you want, you can say the gas presses on the rod, and not on the piston.

quote: Originally posted by Vado123:

we can say the gas presses on the rod, and not on the piston

In, now everything "fell" into place

.

For Deni-kin
I will say a special thank you for the topic.
It turned out to be not so scary to drill, preferably a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm. And pshiknulo I will say so not weakly, for a second more breathed with a 1.5 mm drill. There was 1.5-2 ml of oil.

it is easier to cut with a hacksaw for metal - just a quiet zest.

At one time I was afraid to drill even with a thin drill

Having removed about half a millimeter of thickness with a file, I shot through the remaining wall with a “brush” from IZH-38

Interestingly, what is the general pressure injected at the factory in these racks? Does anyone have such information?

at the factory, probably a press blank with a seal, which pushes on the stem and pressing the cylinder, blows a certain standard pressure into the slot of the stem seal. Poof is next. They are all disposable. not served by IMHO.

The topic was sucked more than once, make a hollow bushing according to the diameter of the stem with an internal thread for the stem, screw it onto the stem and push it inward. The gas will come out through the thread without any excesses, the oil will remain inside.

Here is what they write in the passport for the Fenox gas stop:

Yes, with a hacksaw for metal, (next to the place of the cut, then on a lathe), it sizzled a little and that's it. all the gas leaked out.

But the worst thing here is not oil, but shavings (from drilling and sawing), which can fly into the eyes by means of pressure escaping from the rack. The man in the video neglected TB at all!

about the shavings, there was a case there was a small shavings in the valve of the cornet and with a blank shot flew into the hand of my brother who decided to check the power))

It is clear that the main active ingredient of this device is gas. The gas option assumes that it is very difficult for the gas to move through the small hole that exists between the two chambers, especially quickly. Therefore, in slow motion, the rod cannot quickly return or lift, thereby the car moves smoothly. Gas will be pumped into such a structure at very high pressure, which provides a slower stem operation.

Oscillations of the car body will still exist, but due to devices such as gas shock absorbers, they will be invisible. When gas is used, the car will remain rigid because the gas is under very high pressure. With this option, the grip of the wheels with the road will be maximum, but with the appearance of the slightest irregularities and holes, the car will be very hard, which can create discomfort for the driver and his passengers.

For this reason, gas shock absorbers are not often installed on cars; this choice is made by the vehicle owner, taking into account the roads on which driving is supposed.If these are flat surfaces, then gas shock absorbers are an ideal solution, and if there are pits, hills, humps, etc. on the road, then it is better not to install gas shock absorbers.

Before installation, all gas shock absorbers should be pumped. This will increase their lifespan and ride quality by almost 40%. One of the huge disadvantages that a gas shock absorber has is repair. Repairing such a device when it is worn out is impossible, the car owner can only contact a service station to replace the part. You can do this at home if you have sufficient knowledge and skills.

This is why the gas damper simply needs to be pumped before the installation is complete. After all, not a single driver wants to prematurely go to repair a vehicle. Although the replacement of parts does not take a lot of time, it is an undesirable process.

Leveling up, which is worth completing, does not require a lot of investment and time. But here there are strict rules, the observance of which will allow you to really lengthen the useful resource of the units.

There is an opinion that a gas shock absorber is considered necessary exclusively for sports cars or sports cars. Anyone who wonders about the work and functionality of shock absorbers can have such a thought. Since it allows you to keep the car very stable on the road, even at very high speeds, then this conclusion suggests itself automatically.

But nevertheless, this type of device can be installed for an ordinary city or family car. Here the question is only about the desire of the car owner. If you are ready to endure bumps, pits and bends in the road surface on yourself, then a gas shock absorber will work very well, and if such a feeling is not for you, then it is better to opt for oil or gas-oil appliances.

The devices have a big plus in relation to a sports car also because the speed of their reaction is very high. As soon as the car gets into a small hole, the shock absorbers immediately react to this and hold the car, not allowing the springs that have absorbed them to swing further. In this way, the suspension is also supported.

The first step is to choose a gas shock absorber model that suits the car. There are not only shock absorbers for the chassis, but also gas shock absorbers for the hood and trunk. One of the popular brands of devices is excel g, kayaba. The choice can be stopped both on one-pipe versions and two-pipe ones. It depends on the type of car and the wishes of the owner. Ask experienced drivers for real feedback, they will tell you which brand is used in their mechanisms and which version works in their cars.

If the choice is made and the purchase is made, then you can proceed with the installation. The easiest but most expensive way is to contact a service station. Specialists in this business work there and in a matter of minutes they can put the selected gas shock absorber in place and pump it over. But what to do if you want to complete this task yourself.

Then we do the following:

1. We take the device and install it so that the rod is at the bottom (this is the position of the mechanism "upside down" from the real future state in the machine).
2. Smoothly, without sharp tears, it is necessary to squeeze our shock absorber to the stop and hold it in this state for about three minutes.
3. Further, without unclenching or opening the mechanism, we turn it from the bottom up to the position that will already be on the car, that is, with the rod up. It is important to hold this for 5-6 seconds.
4. Without sudden movements, it is worth lowering the stem so that it straightens itself to the full level.
5. Then it is worth turning back our shock absorber and repeating the steps described above. They can be performed up to 8 times, the main thing is that this number is at least five straightenings.
6. The purpose of such actions is the complete free and smooth movement of the device. In this way, we make this mechanism work correctly.

After bleeding, I recommend installing it on the car immediately. If this is not possible, then the mechanism can only be stored vertically.

Every car enthusiast wants to be advised to choose mechanisms that suit their cars, driving style and terrain. Do not assume that the most expensive item is suitable for any car. This is false thinking, it is important to set goals that you will realize with your car. Good luck in driving and improving your car!

In the video, a car enthusiast shows how you can pump a new car shock absorber yourself at home. Watch this entry and you can easily repeat each pumping step.

Shock absorbers are a kind of consumable for your car. Moreover, the cost of maintaining the suspension in working order is inversely proportional to the quality of the roads. Car owners are constantly looking for ways to save money on the repair and maintenance of their car. We will tell you about self-repair and restoration of the characteristics of the shock absorber struts.

Typical malfunctions of this node are known to everyone:

• Depressurization of the stem packing. Leads to oil leakage from the rack. It can leak at any time. The characteristics change up to a complete loss of performance.
• Too free movement of the stem in the pipe. In fact, the strut turns from a shock absorber into a guide for the suspension spring. The malfunction is related to the internal valves.
• Compression or rebound play. Associated with the development in the rod or cylinder. The consequences are similar to broken valves. The shock absorber does not perform its function in a car, it knocks, rattles and makes other unpleasant sounds, why driving in such a car becomes uncomfortable and dangerous.
• External damage - dents on the body, cracks in the eyelet. Affects the chassis as a whole and can lead to more serious damage.

If any malfunction is detected, it is necessary to remove the rack and release it from the spring. Dismantling is carried out in the garage, without the use of special tools.

Sometimes the owners of foreign cars, noticing that their racks have leaked, turn to the service station for diagnostics, where they will carry out a check at the stand.

In fact, this is not such an easy task. Before carrying out work, you should carefully study the material and observe safety precautions. First of all, you need to determine whether you have a collapsible shock absorber or not. The monolithic body is not repairable, opening with a grinder and brewing is unacceptable.

If there is a nut or a retaining ring in the place where the stem enters the pipe, such a shock absorber strut can be serviced and repaired.

This is what a repairable rack looks like.

• Compressor for supplying compressed air or pump for servicing bicycle shock absorbers.
• Special connection for compressed air injection.

Attention! Safety must be taken care of. Work involves high pressure, so eye and hand protection is essential.

1. The shock absorber is firmly fixed in a vice, the position is vertical. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the part and blow out the piston rod entry point with compressed air. It is disassembled - removing the protective cap of the stem.

For convenience, the work is carried out in a vice

Use a pressure gauge for control. The method is suitable for gas and gas-oil racks

You can watch the process in the video.