The next malfunction is damage to the stem, oil seals, valves inside the rack. There is a selection of spare parts on the market for the repair of collapsible shock absorbers. In addition, an experienced motorist never throws away old spare parts, but tries to repair them. In addition, workable parts can always be extracted from them.
Tip: The entire process of disassembling the shock absorber should be photographed. This will avoid assembly problems.
VIDEO
If you have basic information about how your shock absorbers work, you can save money on replacing them. Most of the rack models are repairable and the parts are either reasonably priced or made in-house.
There is nothing special to paint, on the weekends I changed the cups, anthers, racks on the racks, my eyes, which had been pumped for a long time, were an eyesore in the garage.
Price tag: 2 600 ₽ Mileage: 192,000 km
Nissan AD 2000, petrol engine 1.5 l., 105 hp sec., front-wheel drive, automatic transmission - DIY repair
Tell. Are the bearings already in the cups or do you need to buy them separately?
I left my bearings, they don't go with cups (((
I bought rubber for a long time 750 or 800 rubles I don’t remember
Cups judging by the quality of febest?
Yum yum that's for sure))) cups are not febest, I don’t take this shit anymore, after the experiment with silent blocks!
Well then, you need to lay out the numbers of the details and who is the manufacturer!
The cups are analogous, like Taiwan, but they said the quality of the norms.I haven’t taken such ones yet, so I can’t say anything in advance. and anthers taiwan. before that, the original took (anthers) did not last long, so I decided to simply change the cheap ones more often. the original price tag bites with the current increases!
why are you posting pictures of fat in such a post ... you need to warn)))) I was not ready
The class is a good thing ... and the bacon looks delicious ... already drooling)))))
Trust me. Tasty))) we'll add lard with ribs in brine in a week and we'll smoke!
It is quite obvious that any Nissan chassis unit must be in good condition. This is especially true for the suspension, since, unlike the engine, which can fail and the Nissan AD simply will not go further, the breakdown of some suspension elements while driving can lead to a serious accident.
1. In addition to obvious safety, the Nissan AD chassis is responsible for a comfortable ride and good handling. The most dangerous thing is that in this case there will be a high probability of loss of control, with the next collision with an obstacle that has arisen on the road. Only regular diagnostics of the Nissan AD chassis will help to avoid this situation.
Suspension diagnostics Nissan AD includes checking the elements:
springs and shock absorbers;
levers and supports (bearings from above, silent blocks from below);
bushings of the stabilizer of the Nissan AD;
steering rods and rack;
wheel bearings;
CV JOINT.
2. For the owners of Nissan AD with experience, it is not difficult to determine the malfunction in the suspension. Experience will tell them what the problem is by the sound and its source. Plus, the most common suspension faults sound pretty much the same in all cars.
Diagnostics of the Nissan AD chassis should be carried out regularly, even without showing any hints of a malfunction. It is better to do this on a lift, but it can also be done on an ordinary flyover or observation pit.
3. It is important to remember how the Nissan AD behaves in good condition, then any future malfunction will be obvious. To understand that something is wrong with a car, you do not need to be an experienced driver, and even more so, an auto mechanic.
Most often, the following signs of malfunctions of the Nissan AD chassis occur:
the sudden appearance of noise, knocking, bouncing of the Nissan AD chassis, which can both disappear and remain even on a completely flat road;
too large rolls when cornering and noticeable swaying of the body when passing bumps or when braking;
arbitrary steering to the side, Nissan AD leads away when driving straight;
uneven tire wear.
4. Most often, you can hear exactly the knock of the Nissan AD suspension, it indicates that the rubber elements are worn out or the fasteners that hold them are loose. There are a lot of rubber elements in the chassis, by and large, almost any Nissan AD suspension unit can knock, as a result, in order to accurately identify the cause of the knock, the car must be inspected from below.
If you hear a crunch, especially when cornering or with a sharp acceleration of the Nissan AD, then we can say with almost complete certainty that the reason lies in the malfunction of the CV joint of the Nissan AD, the so-called grenade. A squeak most often occurs after replacing the stabilizer bushings, often this indicates a poor-quality bushing.
5. If Nissan AD began to drift aside, more often this happens after hard passage of pits and potholes, then you may have to do similarity collapse (collapse of the Nissan AD). At best, this will eliminate the trouble, at worst, upon impact, something could bend, starting from the steering rod and ending with the steering knuckle.
In the event of at least one of these signs, it is necessary to diagnose the Nissan AD chassis as soon as possible. Even the regulations explicitly prohibit operation with a faulty suspension, not to mention the fact that it is simply dangerous.
6.Not replaced in time Nissan AD suspension silent block, which is not so expensive, can lead to damage to the lever, with a price tag of one hundred dollars. Many drivers drive without paying attention to the sounds that appear in the chassis of the Nissan AD, and drive until the sound becomes completely critical, or until something simply falls off, this approach is simply absurd.
7. Periodic visual inspection of the Nissan AD undercarriage can save money, after all, if you find a cracked boot or cover in time and make a prompt replacement, then the element that was protected by the boot will last longer. If, when examining the Nissan AD, an already torn boot was found, then you can be sure that soon this suspension element will need to be replaced.
After checking all the anthers, you should start diagnosing the front suspension elements of the Nissan AD. The front suspension is more complex than the rear, it is subject to heavy loads, as a result, it breaks much more often. First, we inspect the Nissan AD shock absorbers; they should not have dents or oil leaks. You can also try to swing the shock absorber to the sides, the swing amplitude should be insignificant.
But the easiest way to check the serviceability of this suspension element is to swing the Nissan HELL by pressing the corner where the shock absorber being diagnosed is located. If, after pressing, Nissan AD, having returned to its original state, continued to swing up and down, then this indicates a malfunction of the shock absorber.
8. Next, the springs of the Nissan AD chassis are examined, often their turns break off, so you need to inspect them for cracks and the integrity of all turns. But here you can also determine the functionality of the springs without looking under the car. To do this, you just need to pay attention to the clearance of the Nissan AD, if the car has become noticeably lower, then this already indicates a malfunction of the springs, they sagged and can no longer perform their function properly.
9. Ball and silent blocks are checked only from the bottom side of the Nissan AD. To diagnose them, it is better to use some kind of metal lever to make it easier to check everything for backlash, they should not be in a working car. The stabilizer and thrust bearings of the Nissan AD are checked in the same way. To check the wheel bearing, you need to shake the wheel, if there is a play, this indicates a poor condition of the bearing.
Repairing the shock absorber of the telescopic strut usually does not lead to the desired result, therefore, if necessary, we recommend replacing the shock absorber.
1. Remove the shock-absorber strut from the car (see "Removal and installation of the shock-absorber strut of the front suspension").
2. Remove the spacer from the rack post.
3. Install the spring compressor and compress the spring.
4. Holding the shock absorber rod with an open-end wrench "8", unscrew the rod nut with a spanner wrench "17".
5. Remove the upper rack support.
6.. upper spring plate with compression buffer.
8. Inspect the upper rack support. Cracking and peeling of the rubber mass from the metal base is not allowed. Replace the defective support.
9. Check the support bearing of the strut. Its rings should rotate easily and without jamming relative to each other.
10. Visually inspect the compression buffer and protective boot. If the compression buffer or protective boot is damaged, replace the assembly with a new one.
11. Remove the rubber gasket from the upper spring seat.
12. Replace the heavily crimped or torn gasket with a new one.
13. Inspect the spring. Replace the spring with deformed or broken coils.
NOTE: Replace springs only in pairs (right and left at the same time).
14. If the bottom gasket is frayed on the good spring, remove it from the spring and replace it with a new one.
15. Inspect the rack parts.If cracks, deformation and destruction are found on the strut body, the lower spring cup, fountain mounts to the steering knuckle, replace the strut. It is prohibited to carry out welding work on the stand - this may affect traffic safety.
16. Install the shock absorber vertically and release it several times until it stops and raise the shock absorber rod. Make sure the stem moves without sinking, binding, or knocking. Otherwise, replace the shock absorber. In addition, replace the shock absorber if there are traces of liquid leaking (slight fogging of the upper part of the body is allowed) and if the threads in the upper part of the stem are damaged.
WARNING: Replace shock absorbers only in pairs (right and left at the same time).
17. Assemble the shock absorber strut in the reverse order to disassembly. Tighten the shock absorber rod nut to 59-73 Nm 16.0-7.5 kgcm).
This is how the details of the shock absorber strut look like, laid out in the order of their installation.
When assembling the shock absorber strut, install the strut support so that the mark is on the support.
... coincided with the mark on the upper spring plate, and both marks when installing the rack on the car should be directed towards the outside of the car.
18. Install the shock absorber strut on the car ("Removing and installing the shock absorber strut of the front suspension").
Kayabovskiye numbers for 10 body is not a problem.
333308-
333310-
They are also placed on 16th Almeria
Monroe 23434 fits on the back, this is instead of the original
This is for Nissan AD VY11, QG13DE, 1999.
Changed!
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We remove and disassemble the shock absorber when it is necessary to replace its upper support, upper support bearing, spring, compression travel buffer or shock absorber.
In the engine compartment.
... Using a Z-shaped wrench "21", unscrew the nut of the upper fastening of the shock absorber strut, keeping the shock absorber rod from turning with the hexagon "6".
We remove the rubber-metal support washer of the upper mount of the shock absorber strut.
We remove the wheel and securely fix the car on a factory-made stand.
Using a 10 spanner spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the holder for the wiring harness of the wheel speed sensor.
We remove the holder with the wiring harness from the rack.
Using the "18" head, unscrew the nut of the bolt of the upper fastening of the strut to the steering knuckle, holding the bolt with a wrench of the same size.
Similarly, we unscrew the nut of the bolt of the lower fastening of the rack.
We take out the bolts or knock them out with a drift from soft metal.
We remove the steering knuckle from the lug of the rack bracket.
Remove the shock absorber strut.
To disassemble the rack, we install two spring ties diametrically opposite to each other, so that they engage four coils of the spring.
Rotating the tie screws evenly, compress the spring.
After the spring stops pressing on the support cups.
... with a spanner wrench "27", unscrew the nut securing the upper support, keeping the stem from turning with the hexagon "6".
Remove the spring with ties.
... and a compression stroke buffer with a protective sleeve.
We assemble and install the rack in reverse order. Install the spring as follows.
... so that its lower turn rests against the protrusion of the lower spring cup.
... and the upper coil rested against the under-stamping of the upper spring cup. Tighten the nut of the upper strut support and the nuts of the bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle with the prescribed torques. We finally tighten the nut for fastening the strut to the body with the prescribed torque in the “car on wheels” position (see “Appendices”).
Convenient and comfortable movement by car ensures the correct and correct operation of the shock absorbers. It also ensures safe road travel. A defective suspension seriously affects the wear of the elements of its system and steering. Such repairs require immediate implementation and replacement of failed parts with new ones.
Any motorist with experience in repairing his car can do the replacement of shock absorbers on his own. At the same time, you will save money on your home budget for visiting a car service. You will need desire, free time and skills in handling a simple tool. What you need to know, and how to replace shock absorbers with your own hands, you will read in this article.
A set of wrenches.
Wheel key.
Jack.
Screwdriver Set.
Device for dismantling suspension springs.
Stoppers under the wheels (prevent the vehicle from coming off the jack).
Leak detected
The list of faults of the rear and front shock absorbers, upon detection of which, requires replacement:
Oil leaking from the shock absorber.
The appearance of traces of corrosion on the shock absorber mountings. There is a risk that the spring plate will come off when the vehicle is in motion.
Corrosion on the piston rod. This defect can lead to seal failure and oil leakage.
Deformation of the shock absorber body.Possible blocking of the piston, or slowing down of its movement.
The appearance of knocking on corners - the car became less stable, it began to be thrown during movement.
Fluid leaks appeared on the shock absorbers.
Perform a thorough inspection of your vehicle and decide what to do. Make an independent repair of the shock absorber struts, or install new shock absorbers on the car. When choosing any option, you should remember well: after the repair or purchase of new shock absorbers, it is imperative to pump the shock absorbers.
When replacing both pairs of shock absorbers, take from the set the keys that match the parameters of your car, ties and spring supports - goats, a jack. Many motorists use wheels instead, but for your complete personal safety, use goats. The risk of injury while carrying out repair work is quite high. Take care of your health.
Dismantle and install shock absorbers in pairs, saving on repairs, you will worsen the car's handling.
It is impossible to make notches on the rack in order to preserve the camber-toe settings. Nothing will come of it anyway. After the end of the repair, you need to go to the car service and make the wheel alignment.
We hang out the wheel intended for repair, install the stops. We unscrew the two bolts securing the shock absorber strut to the steering knuckle. Disconnect the steering head with a puller, you can use a pry bar.
Then we disconnect the brake hose, unscrew the nuts securing the upper shock absorber.
Remove the shock absorber assembly from the arch.
We make a spring tie until it releases the spring support cup.
We unscrew the central nut on the shock absorber, dismantle the dust protector, the shock absorber strut together with the spring and the bump stop.
We examine the shock absorbers and make a decision: either to make current repairs, or to replace the old shock absorbers with new ones. Replacing oil seals or adding fluid will only delay the situation with replacing shock absorbers. Install shock absorbers after repair or replacement in the reverse order.
Unscrew the nuts
Removing the cushion
Front pillar
Removing the amortization strut
Installing a new part
VIDEO
Before lifting the rear of the car to replace the shock absorber, put it in first gear, place stops under the front wheels. Raise the rear of the car, support the jack by placing reliable supports next to it.
Unscrew the bolt securing the lower part of the shock absorber to the axle, pull out the bushing in which it was located. Remove the shock absorber after unscrewing the nut that secures it to the body.
Attach the new shock absorber to the body and adjust it in height. Make sure that the bottom of it is located in the bracket that is attached to the bridge. Install the bushing into the shock absorber, and then secure it.
Dismantling and installation of rear shock absorbers is carried out in pairs only. When replacing one shock absorber, an imbalance in the car's travel will be observed, and this will lead to a significant load on all suspension elements and the axle, which means that the time of their operation will be significantly reduced.
Unscrew the stabilizer bar
Here are the nuts we unscrew
Removing the rear pillar
We tighten the spring
Correct installation of the support leg
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Tips from Stavlav. Novosibirsk city
I also changed here))
2. we take it off and the first thing that creeps into the head is that the quick-eyed smoked? * how to disassemble all this?
5.Unscrew the 3 nuts holding the rack in the glass from above
and we take it out by moving the top of the lever towards ourselves and in the direction of movement, we get this
* also, when replacing, we can find this
now we clamp all this on the workbench, put the ties, unscrew the nut from above, disassemble everything, change it.
still had to replace the upper levers, tk. the old ones just fell apart
something like that
since the middle lever has shifted slightly along the axis when you take it out and take it down.
I'll tell you the background. bought a car, immediately changed the ball ones and checked the steering tips and rods, everything, ideally, there are no backlashes anywhere, the upper levers were also checked, everything is also ideal. And there were knocks. On the left, and very much
Then we noticed that it turned out that someone had already climbed there before us and put (shit in general) some kind of collective farm, some kind of elastic band on top of the regular one and clamped with a regular washer. that is, they wanted to remove the knock for her and pull the top ruzinka of the stem. but it didn't work. As you can see in the photo, the stem moved back strongly and hit the cup, that's where the knocks come from.
All the original was bought, the upper elastic bands 56217-90J00 2pcs, the lower 56218-90J00 2pcs, and the upper washers 56113-4U00A 2pcs.
We remove the rack, and remove the spring with a puller, remembering how the cup stood relative to the shock absorber. A very convenient device from a lift was used as a puller
Having disassembled the rack, we remove everything old. and I was shocked how much everything was broken there.
Here is a complete set of two racks. the left was most broken. on the right, less but also required replacement for a long time already.
Well, we put everything in place, after having pumped the shock absorbers. All new things should look like in the photo. if you have already flattened everything to replace.
What part of the car do you think suffers the most on our roads? Of course, this is the chassis. The wear of its elements is happening faster than we would like. And one of the most common problems is the failure of shock-absorbing struts. Sometimes the matter can be corrected with timely repairs, and sometimes a complete replacement of the shock absorber strut is required. We will deal with both the first case and the second. But first you need to decide what this element is
Due to the fact that the shock absorber struts are the most "delicate" element of this system, we will pay full attention to them. Front (sometimes also rear) shock absorber struts are made according to the principle of a double-acting shock absorber operating on hydraulics. The rear shock absorber strut is most often manufactured according to the standard two-tube design. It is not worth delving into the structure of these elements, but you still need to know the main differences between them.
So, the main difference in the shock struts is that the front struts primarily affect the handling of the car, while the rear ones serve to increase comfort. The idea is clear - the front struts should be in working order, but you shouldn't forget about the rear ones either, because the good condition of the suspension means trouble-free and comfortable movement of the car.
Diagnostics of suspension struts
But how can you check the condition? The vehicle owner can carry out diagnostics, while the process itself is not difficult. The more modern the vehicle is, the easier it is to inspect and evaluate. But there are general signs that apply to all cars: If you notice fluid leaks in the suspension area or hear a constant knocking while driving, then with a probability of 95% the struts need to be repaired. Moreover, the repair of the racks can be done by hand.
So, we have identified a malfunction - repair is required. Of course, you can go straight to the car service, where you will be replaced or repaired, but you need to say right away - it is quite expensive. Another option is to do the work yourself. If your car has collapsible struts, then there should be no problems with the repair. Unfortunately, in modern foreign cars there are most often solid racks, but in domestic and old cars, the racks are collapsible. Why is that? In Europe, repair is a replacement for quite a long time. And it is right.
In the cold season, it is worth warming up the shock absorbers in the same way as the tires: after a night of inactivity, the car needs to be driven for about five minutes at low speed. This is done so that the oil warms up quietly. If gas is added immediately, the frozen oil can break the poppet valves.
Non-dismountable shock-absorbing struts
If you are the owner of a car where non-collapsible racks are installed, then you will not be able to cope with your own hands - special equipment is required to maintain them, so there is only one way out - to go to a car service. Almost every workshop offers maintenance services for non-collapsible racks. Here lit is better to choose a proven and recommended car service, because the repair of such racks is the introduction of structural changes. There is a chance that they will fail again after repair, even if it is carried out by experienced mechanics, so replacement will be more profitable and reliable.
Before you start repairing racks, you should decide on the tools:
Do-it-yourself repair and replacement of racks is a change in the main part of the rack - the cartridge, so you need to purchase it. When buying, you need to name the model of your car.
You will need a rack wrench for front-wheel drive cars (you will need it for springs and ties) and a classic one.
Goats must be placed under the car, it is strictly forbidden to work with a jack, because this threatens the safety of the person carrying out the repairs.
Shock Absorber Repair Tools
So, you will be able to independently assess what type of struts is installed in your shock absorber. To do this, a simple inspection is enough for you. If there are fasteners, various nuts, bolts, then the rack can be disassembled. If it is a one-piece product, then the solution to the problem on its own is canceled. Well, now let's move on to the step-by-step instructions:
Remember: repair of shock absorber struts can only be paired.
Get your tools ready, you won't need a lot of them. Also bring a bowl of water and rags, as we will need to wipe the oil drips.
Now you need to put the car on a jack.
On the classics, dismantling the rack is quite easy, but with front-wheel drive cars you will have to tinker: the spring must be evenly compressed with ties on both sides. The compressed spring will then need to be rearranged to a new rack, but before that, a visual defect should be carried out.
Work begins with the rack: we carry out dismantling, then we drain all the oil.After that, you need to take out the "filling" in the scrap and put a new cartridge in its place.
The main process is completed, now you can assemble the system in the reverse order: the spring, then the support bearing and the stand itself on the machine.
After the completion of the repair, it is imperative to carry out a similar collapse. It would be better to contact the service station with this operation.
The rear pillar is repaired in the same way. Do not forget that you need to carry out repairs exclusively in pairs.
Repair of shock absorbers
Of course, repairing shock absorbers will be much cheaper than replacing them, but sometimes you have to do that too. Again, you can diagnose and see if they can still last after being repaired. If you are not sure of your discernment, then the diagnosis can be carried out at a car service. If you change shock absorbers, then this process should also be carried out only in pairs. To replace, you will need the same tools: a rack wrench for the classic and spring-loaded ties for front-wheel drive vehicles.
Do not test the strength of your shock absorbers on a bad road - this can keep them in good condition for a long time. High speed also negatively affects them, so if you drive, then on a high-quality road surface. Lifting the suspension also harms the entire shock absorber system: the rod begins to function in the area of movement, and this entails a quick failure.
If replacing the shock absorber strut can be done by hand, then replacing the entire shock absorber is most often done in a car service, because this is an overly responsible event. Finally, we would like to give a few recommendations on the care of new shock absorbers. The first step is to carry out anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom of the car. This will help you cope with adverse weather conditions.
Means for treating cars from corrosion
Again, this is necessary for our realities, since bad weather lasts about six months, and you rarely see gutters on our roads. Therefore, when you move through solid puddles, it is simply necessary that the underbody of the car is protected from corrosion. In addition, we recommend that when repairing shock absorbers pay attention to the rear axle gearbox, as well as other elements of the car's suspension.
Video (click to play).
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Example of a blower connection
