Any owner of a VAZ 2109 who has at least a little experience in self-repair is quite capable of repairing the racks. But if you don't have the skills, use the services of a service station.
To ensure a comfortable and safe ride on a VAZ 2109 car, shock absorber struts play an important role. But over time, their technical characteristics deteriorate, or even the suspensions become unusable. You can notice the malfunction of the nodes by the following signs:
It is possible to determine whether it is necessary to repair the VAZ 2109 rack by the leaks of shock absorbing fluid, the rack becomes wet and dirty. The need to replace the shock absorbers can be indicated by the rocking of the car, as on a swing, although the road is flat.
Most often, the repair of the rack does not give the desired effect, after a short period of time it will make itself felt, which will force the owner of the VAZ 2109 car to replace the rack with a new one. The article suggests that you familiarize yourself with the repair of racks with your own hands. Nowadays, they are more often made in one-piece structures. Therefore, you need to carefully inspect the products before starting repairs.
Tip: You need to know that sometimes it is impractical and ineffective to repair the unit, and sometimes, after repair, you can create an emergency on the road.
The choice of racks depends on the quality of the road surface and driving style:
Above the wheels of the car, on both sides of the car, there are shock absorber struts. The procedure for repairing the front pillar of the VAZ 2109 is as follows:
Tip: If there are signs of deformation or destruction on the bracket, body, bottom spring cup or pivot arm, the elements must be replaced.
Tip: If the buffer and boot are damaged, they must be replaced with new ones.
VIDEO
The shock absorber is washed.
Fastens in a vice.
The stand is installed vertically.
The shock absorber rod rises and falls several times until it stops.
Tip: The presence of jamming and knocking indicates that the shock absorber cannot be repaired. In their absence, the repair of the rear pillar of the VAZ 2109 can be continued.
Visually inspected and, if necessary, changed: rear shock absorber cushions; on the lower rack mount - silent block; anther; insulation gasket; compression stroke buffer; spring.
The shock absorber rod is pulled out to the stop.
The nut of the reservoir is unscrewed with a wrench.
The working cylinder is pulled out, the rod with all the details.
The shock absorber fluid is drained into a clean container.
The guide sleeve of the rod, the rod itself and the piston are removed from the working cylinder.
The liquid is drained.
The compression valve body is carefully knocked out of the cylinder assembly.
The piston rod is clamped in a vice.
The recoil valve nut is unscrewed.
Removable: piston, valve, guide sleeve, stem oil seal, oil seal holder.
All parts can be replaced with new ones if necessary.
General view of the rear pillar VAZ 2109
The rear shock absorber is assembled in the reverse order. In this case, you need to take into account:
after the valve is assembled, it is necessary to check the movement of the discs and valve discs, which should be free;
the cage is pressed onto the body with a mandrel;
using a mandrel, a compression valve is inserted into the cylinder.
Malfunctions of the elements of the rear pillar, in which their replacement is required:
cracks found;
deformations have formed.
lost elasticity;
broke.
Compression stroke buffer if:
damaged;
got deformations;
collapsed.
lost elasticity;
torn.
cracks appeared on it;
the turns were deformed;
the length of the spring marked with class A, yellow or white, decreased, became less than 207 millimeters.
How to properly repair the racks on a VAZ 2109 car can be seen in the video. Timely repair or replacement of shock absorber struts will ensure reliability and comfort when driving a VAZ 2109 car.
Welcome! Automotive front pillar - in fact, it does not always make sense to repair it, therefore, it is mainly the entire racks and not its individual parts that are sold on the market, since the car runs on its native racks for a long time, then, accordingly, the parts are killed all over the place and not a lot, but from the fact that you, for example, replace only the springs alone, this will not give you any guarantee that the shock absorbers themselves will not fly in the near future, for example, so here, how to say, do everything at your discretion and it would be great if If your racks, after replacing any individual parts, still traveled quite a lot of kilometers, so in this article we will try to describe everything to the smallest detail and explain how to understand the malfunction of a particular unit, in general, read and delve into.
Note! In order to repair the front pillar, you will need: A vice, as well as special ties with which you will tighten the spring, in addition, you will also need a set of all kinds of keys that you can only have in the trunk or garage and you will need another rag so that you can it was for her to wipe her hands and a little spring from the dirt! (The spring will need to be wiped off just to see what marks are applied to it, this is very important if you check the spring with a special device for serviceability!
Summary:
Where is the A-pillar? It can be seen if the car is raised high or if you raise any front part with a jack, for clarity, we placed a photo below, in which the wheel was removed and the front part was raised with a jack, also in the photo you can see three arrows that indicate on the rack itself. (As you already understood, the shock absorber itself, which is located inside the strut housing, is not visible in the photo, as well as the spring, etc., this is all one telescopic strut)
When should the A-pillar be repaired? It must be repaired if the car has sunk too much (Has become low on the standard suspension), as well as if a crack is found (It will not always be possible to see it) on the spring, the strut is also repairable and if oil is found on the shock absorber, the telescopic strut is also repairable ...
Note! In addition to all of the above malfunctions, you can understand (On getting under the car) that the rack will need to be repaired, for this, just take a ride in the car and if you notice that the suspension is knocking (Dull knocking is usually issued) on a bad road and if you turn your attention to unpleasant squeak when starting and stopping the car, then you can assume that the racks already need to be repaired and you need to remove and disassemble them to find out what is really the matter!
In addition, the serviceability of the racks can also be checked in specialized workshops, they have equipment with which they can tell you with great accuracy whether your racks are worn out or not!
1) Firstly, you will need to remove the rack itself, in more detail with the instructions for removing the front struts, you can read the article titled: "Replacing the front struts with a VAZ", it is described in detail.
2) Now, when the stand is removed and in your hands, install it in a vice and gently clamp it (To prevent damage to the stand, we recommend that in the place where you are going to tighten it with a vice, put a cloth and thereby exclude direct contact of the vice with the stand) , then install special ties on the spring of the telescopic rack (This is how it is scientifically called) and squeeze the spring with them so that it does not fire (see photo 1), then while holding the shock absorber rod from turning, unscrew the nut that is located on this rod and secures the upper support of the rack, the upper cup and the spring itself, so when this nut is completely turned out, carefully remove the upper support from the rack (see photo 2), then remove the upper cup from the same rack (see photo 3) and after it itself the spring, loosening it for this, gently pulling the ties and removing it, and when the spring no longer interferes, then remove the protective cover (indicated by the blue arrow) and the compression buffer which is indicated by the red arrows after it Coy in photo 4.
Note! When all items from the rack are removed, check the top cup, as well as the rack itself and everything that you removed for cracks and various kinds of deformations, if necessary, replace all defective parts with new ones, in no case do not weld or weld to the rack, nothing that has fallen off of it, it is better to go to a car shop and buy a new one, because when carrying out welding work, the load that the rack can withstand is no longer as high as in factory welding and possibly with a strong collision with a bump, this place that you welded will give you should know about this, and it can also affect the performance of the telescopic drain itself not in the best way!
3) Then put the stand straight upright and then grab its stem with your hand, and then, with your hand down and up (Several times), raise and lower the stem, thereby while doing this you will feel whether the stem moves easily (Must be hard), and so Feel if there are any jams and dips in it, otherwise replace the rack with a new one.
Note! And also inspect the rack and make sure that there is no oil leakage on it and that it does not flow wet and all the dirt sticks to it and it gets very dirty), but you can also notice a slight sweating on the top of the rack body, which is allowed!
4) Now let's move on to replacing the cartridge itself, which is located in the rack body, for this take a hammer in one hand, and in the other chisel and with their help knock down the compression buffer support as shown in the first figure, then using a special key (This key is sold in autoshop, tell the seller that you need a special wrench for unscrewing the nut of the telescopic rack housing cartridge and he will hopefully understand you right away, but if not, then for clarity, take a look at small photo number 2, this key is shown there), unscrew the rack housing nut as shown in the main figure under number 2.
Note! When this nut is unscrewed (By the way, by the way, you can also unscrew it with a chisel and a hammer, this is shown in photo 1 below, but only in this case you will purchase a repair kit in which this nut will be included in advance, otherwise there is a possibility that you can break the edges with a chisel her), remove the old cartridge from the rack and install a new one in its place, instead of the cartridge you may also have a rod with a working cylinder, so also remove it from the body and then drain all the shock absorber fluid into some container (see. photo 2), well, then pour white spirit into the rack itself (you need to fill it where you pulled out the cartridge or rod with the working cylinder) and clean it from the inside of dirt and the remaining shock absorber fluid, and then install a new cartridge or rod with a working cylinder!
5) Next, check the performance of the upper support bearing (For clarity, it is indicated in the diagram below under the number 4), it should not jam when you turn it, and should also stand tight and not have axial movement in the dough housing, in addition, it should not be rusty, otherwise you will need to replace it, you will also need to carefully inspect the body of the upper support (indicated by the arrow under the number 3), there should be no cracks on this case and the pins should not be torn off, otherwise replace either the pins with new ones, or replace the upper support assembly itself.
Note! Also, carefully inspect the compression buffer, which is indicated by the number 10, it should not be deformed and its protective cover that covers it (Indicated by the number 9), it should also not be torn and should not have visible signs of wear, as well as the metal reinforcement from the rubber band is also not must move away!
6) Next, take care of the spring (To check it, you need a special device that is only in specialized workshops), and so with the help of a special device, you will need to completely (Before all the coils touch) the spring three times, after which you will need to apply force to the spring in 3187 N (325 kg) and measure its length under the specified load, which should be at least 201 mm (Not less than 182 mm, for those machines that were exported).
Note! In the event that you have a spring with a yellow marking (The marking is applied directly to the spring coils), then for the future always install a spring with exactly the same marking, this marking indicates that the spring has a class A (The same class has a spring that was installed on cars sent for export, but only that came with a white marking), these springs should not be less than 207 mm (Or rather, only the spring with yellow marking should not be less than 207 mm, and also should not be less than 188 mm for cars supplied for export , in other words, a spring with white markings)!
If you are suddenly going to change both front springs, then we recommend you to replace the springs with yellow markings with springs with green markings, and white ones with springs with blue markings, these springs are already class B and better hold the car on the road, since they are slightly on shorter (in terms of length) and thus they are a little stiffer, therefore, the car starts to hold the road well, but only as already mentioned earlier, in no case should one spring be changed to a spring of another class, only either both front ones with class A , or either both front but with class B!
7) And in the end, collect all the parts removed a little earlier in the reverse order of removal, when assembling, take into account that moment that when installing the protective casing, put it on the groove that goes around the compression buffer (see photo 1), and also take into account the fact the fact that when installing the spring, it will have to abut the ends against the protrusion on the lower cup (see photo 2).
Additional video clip: For more details on how to disassemble the rack and repair it, you can see in the video that is laid out just below:
Keeping your Nine struts in good working order will not only allow you to enjoy a comfortable ride, but also prevent serious accidents.
You can repair faulty racks on the VAZ 2109 model yourself, for this, study our instructions.
So, in order to repair the front struts, first of all, they must be removed and cleaned from dirt.
Fix the strut spring with a special tie, preventing its pressure on the support cups, then remove the nut of the upper strut mount.
Dismantle the upper support limiting assembly, the support itself and its bearing. Remove the top cup and spring assembly.
Check the condition of the swing arm, bottom cup, shroud, and bracket assembly. If damage is found, replace these assemblies entirely.
Place the shock absorber in an upright position, then lower and raise the stem assembly until it stops. If there are signs of knocks, dips or seizures, the shock absorber part must be completely replaced.
Using a chisel, disassemble the compression damper support assembly, using a wrench - unscrew the nut securing the strut housing.
Remove the nut, remove the rod and slave cylinder part, pour out the liquid and the prepared container from the shock absorber. The liquid can then be reused. Clean the inside of the shock absorber housing, place an oil or gas cartridge in the housing.
Assemble the rack in reverse order. During assembly, replace the defective parts, carefully install the spring, which is in a compressed position.
[stextbox id = "gray"] Please note that the unconditional replacement of units and parts on the front pillar of the "nine" model is necessary if they have the following malfunctions: [/ stextbox]
The housing must be replaced if it is not elastic enough, has cracks or holes, or if the metal reinforcement is peeling from the rubber.
The upper support assembly must be replaced if the axial movement of the bearing is detected inside the housing, the bearing is seized, or grease drips from under the protective rings are visible.
It is also necessary to replace the fastening bolts when fixing damage to the thread.
Put the gearshift lever in 1st gear, put shoes under the front axle, lift the rear of the car and fix it with the supports, dismantle the rear pillar.
Remove the buffer and boot from the spring, replace them if faulty.
Wash and clamp the damper assembly in a vise.
Check shock absorber travel. If faults are found, replace it.
Check the condition of the silent block of the lower attachment point, pillows, boot, bumper, gasket, spring.
Pull out the shock absorber rod, remove the retaining nut, remove the cylinder, drain the fluid.
Remove the compression valve cover.
Fix the rod in a vise, remove the nut, piston, valve, bushing, oil seal and its cage.
Check the parts, if necessary, replace them with new ones, reassemble.
VIDEO
If the telescopic suspension struts of the VAZ 2109, whether rear or front, fail, they should be repaired or completely replaced. This type of work can be carried out independently or you can contact a qualified specialist, a reliable car service in Cherepovets.
We will carry out the work with an oil shock absorber, stock design.
When repairing a VAZ 2109 telescopic suspension strut, you should purchase a repair kit consisting of a rubber oil seal and a ring for each rack, which will be installed in exchange for the old, damaged one.
At the first stage, we need to drain the oil from the rack, for this we unscrew the nut (25) fixing the cartridge (31) inside the main body (30). We take out the cartridge and drain the oil.
Then we disassemble the cartridge itself (31), the main shock-absorbing element. To do this, carefully knock down the sleeve (26) with a hammer in the direction of departure, and remove it from the body.
All oil seals and seals must be flushed, and those that are replaced with new ones should be lubricated with silicone grease.
We grip the cartridge (31) in a vice and remove the compression valve installed on it, which is removed quite simply by knocking out. Then the compression valve itself, consisting of several metal discs, should be disassembled. In order to make the rack stiffer, you can add a certain number of disks, there are enough proven schemes on the Internet for how to do this.
Then we turn to the analysis of the stock itself. It should be clamped vertically in a vice and unscrew the upper nut with a 17 wrench. The whole structure is quite simple, it is a piston valve, a throttle and a rebound valve with a metal spring.
After complete disassembly of the rack, replace all damaged elements, and proceed with the assembly in the reverse order, while adjusting its characteristics by changing the number of discs in the valves.
Video (click to play).
After carrying out repair work, you should pump the air shock absorber, with which many motorists involved in this process have a problem on their own. But it should be remembered that there is no need to pump the rack to the factory parameters with the same piston stroke, which is why it is enough to pump the rack by 70-80%.