Described are the trimmer clutch and petrol cutter clutch malfunctions, as well as how to remove the clutch on the trimmer and how to remove the clutch on the petrol cutter.
The grip of the brushcutter is the same as that of the trimmer.
Do-it-yourself repair of petrol cutters is similar to repairing a trimmer.
The grip of the brushcutter is like a trimmer.
Do-it-yourself petrol brush repair is the same as trimmer repair.
While the trimmer is idling, the clutch pads, although they rotate with the crankshaft, do not touch the clutch drum, since they are compressed by a spring and do not transmit torque from the engine to the cutting equipment.
When the engine is running at speeds above idle (above 4000 rpm), the clutch weights are expanded under the influence of centrifugal force (overcoming the spring force) and resting their outer friction surface against the inner surface of the clutch drum, they begin to rotate it, thereby transmitting torque from motor on the trimmer cutting equipment (or petrol cutters).
Hello, tell me why the springs are breaking on the clutch of the petrol scooter.
I think the clutch spring has burst, the trimmer clutch spring often breaks because:
1. Wear of the pads, and maybe the clutch drum (which leads to the stretching of the spring during operation longer than normal).
2. Uneven wear of the pads from some side (the spring bends).
3. Wear of pads fastening bushings (causing backlash of pads and spring bias).
4. Check that the shoe mounting bolts are tight and that the trimmer clutch drum is not wobbling.
5. Incorrect installation of the clutch spring is impossible by inserting a screwdriver into the hole, tension the spring, trying to put the spring ear into the hole in the shoe.It is necessary to remove the pads from the braid, hook the ends of the spring to the holes in the pads, put the pads in a normal position to each other (in the hands with the spring on), then install the assembled pads with the spring on the braid and tighten the fasteners (special bolts, preferably new, so that they did not loosen during operation).
6. Incorrect operation of the trimmer. The manner of mowing pressed the gas, released the gas, pressed the gas, released the gas As a result of overheating of the clutch and the spring, which leads to its fragility and premature wear of the trimmer clutch. It is necessary, during mowing, to try to keep the same engine speed, and with the gas key only adjust the speed depending on the load (depending on the density of the grass).
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Hope it helped. The first three points are treated by replacing the pads or replacing the trimmer clutch assembly.
Tell me, the clutch pads can be restored somehow (the pads are worn out). to rivet, glue, and from what material to make an overlay. Or where to buy pads with the size of the diameter of the pads assembly-58mm, axial inter-bolt -40mm.
A similar story is absolutely! There is nowhere to buy, but I don’t know how and what to glue on the pads. I want, on extreme, to block clutch and work without it. Kuzmich.
Kuzmich, and buy a clutch in an online store? Search for trimmer clutch buy and search online for your trimmer clutch. If it is your clutch that is not there, contact (call, write off) a sales assistant or an online store manager and they will gladly select or order the necessary clutch for the trimmer. If you don’t help in one store, talk to another, etc., until you find the hardware you need! The main thing is not to retreat!
Now on the Internet, I think you can even buy an international space station in disassembled form. 🙂 In addition, it is cheaper on the Internet than in land-based stores (maybe several times). And immediately you can find out the methods and cost of delivery (also not expensive). The disadvantages of buying in an online store are that you cannot touch / smell the goods before buying and you have to wait for the ordered goods for several days, and if from abroad, you will have to wait from 2 weeks to 2 months.
I will try to figure out how to restore the clutch for the trimmer in the near future and unsubscribe here.
Can be glued with several layers of nylon stockings (tights) by pressing with clamps and heating. Heating over the burner plate. Heating control at the exit of the melt from the joints. Valery. Good luck !.
How to restore the trimmer clutch pads
If there is nowhere to buy a trimmer clutch, or if the necessary spare parts are not on sale, or if it is expensive, or there is no time to wait for ordered parts, or you just love repairing the tremmer with your own hands, then the trims on the trimmer clutch pads can be restored by yourself. The same applies to a brush cutter, a petrol cutter, a brushcutter, an electric cutter, a chainsaw, a gas cutter and any other technique with a centrifugal clutch.
To do this, you need the actual trimmer clutch pads (prepare yourself) and get a special glue that will withstand severe overheating and heavy loads that transmit torque from the engine to the cutting unit. You also need to check if there is any mechanical wear on the bolts and metal parts of the trimmer clutch pads or the chainsaw clutch (look, it may be time to change the trimmer clutch assembly).
What and how to make trimmer clutch pads (or chainsaw clutch pads).
For pads on the clutch pads of the trimmer, you can use the rear drum brake pad of any foreign car or motorcycle, which (pads) contains asbestos, graphite, aluminum and brass dust (not chips).
To give the brake pad the required curvature, drill 2 holes at the edges of this pad (if not there), tie the ends of the pad with a wire, pull this wire (start pulling the ends of the pad) by threading a metal knob into the wire (you can use a suitable nail) and rotating it , twist the wire and thus pull together the ends of the lining.
When the wire is stretched (without fanaticism, so as not to break the pad), lower it into a suitable saucepan or bucket of water, bring to a boil and cook for 5-10 minutes.Then we take out the overlay, we also tighten the ends of the overlay, twisting the wire with a knob and turning it over, cook again for 5-10 minutes. And we do this until the lining takes on a curvature corresponding to the curvature (radius) of the trimmer clutch pad (or the chainsaw clutch, if we do for it).
When, after another pulling out of the boiling water and comparing the car brake lining with the trimmer clutch pad, we made sure that the pad has accepted the radius of the clutch pad, we leave this pad, still tightened with wire, to dry until tomorrow.
Then we remove the wire from the lining, remove the dimensions of the future linings from the shoe, cut the linings for the clutch shoes of our trimmer from the car brake lining. We grind the edges with emery so that the new linings exactly match the dimensions of the clutch pads. That's it, we already have trimmer clutch pads. Now you need to stick them on the trimmer clutch pads (petrol cutters, motor cutters, electric cutters, chainsaws).
How to glue trimmer clutch pads (or chainsaw clutch pads).
1. Take the BF-2 glue. This is a medical high-temperature adhesive with an operating temperature of up to 200 ° C (BF-6 is not suitable - it can withstand temperatures only up to 90 ° C).
2. We grease both parts with glue - the perfectly cleaned and degreased surface of the trimmer clutch pad and the mating (inner) surface of the clutch pad lining. We leave them to lie in the air for about 30 minutes. Then we repeat this procedure 1 more time (we smear both parts with glue and let them lie down for 30 minutes).
3. Lubricate with glue for the third time, press the pads to the pads using clamps with a semicircular bracket in the shape of the pads, so that the pressure is uniform over the entire surface of the lining (or you can press the pad to the pads, tightly and evenly wrapping them with a suitable wire).
4. We place it all in an electric (not gas!) Oven preheated to 200 ... 230 ° С for 40 minutes.
5. We take it out of the oven and, without disassembling it, let it cool to room temperature.
6. After the parts have cooled down, remove the fasteners and check if the pads are stuck to the trimmer clutch pads. Then, on emery, we adjust the thickness of the new linings to the desired size (so that the clutch pads with the new linings fit into the clutch drum), file the edges and roughness with a file. Then we assemble the trimmer clutch, check the braid at work and, happy, run to tell our neighbor.
Note: if the glue is in the form of sheets with a thickness of about 1 mm , on both sides covered with a film (so as not to stick together). You need to cut off a piece of this glue so that the size matches the size of the onlay. Then immerse it in acetone for a few seconds, put it on a previously well-cleaned block, and on top - an overlay. Immediately, you need to press the pad to the block with a clamp and place it all in the oven for 15-20 minutes. Everything. Glued for centuries.
Note: also very good (can be used) glue for VS-10 or VS-350 overlays.
Note: so that the overlays do not fall off, do not use super glues with an operating temperature of up to 120 ° C. For gluing trimmer clutch pads and pads (petrol cutter clutch, chainsaw clutch, etc.), it is better to use the adhesives recommended above.
Valera! You are a very smart and kind person, which modern society lacks. I will do everything according to your recipe, and then I will write down how it happened. Many thanks! Best regards, Kuzmich.
I did just that, just glued it with epoxy.
It has become much better, in the sense of triggering at lower rpm.
From what to put the spring, you need a length of about 40 mm?
Last year, with a belt drive, I drove without a spring in the clutch, it was possible to start only on the move, but after the first jerk with a cord, it was possible to spin the engine further by pedaling. The pads seized to death at low rpm.
Martyrs, there is a ready-made solution for the second season.
It is undesirable to put a spring into a sikos, for a number of reasons, starting with the fact that it is difficult to install the pads, which move apart, instead of being attracted to each other.
Maybe someone picked up 2.3 times weaker spring from automotive spare parts?
It will not work to remove the extra gap between the pads by welding - cast iron. My skin will wear out quickly.
Do you have funny nuts with a difference of 0.5 millimeters - cutting sovets? Here are three neat little nuts with inscriptions at hand. 7,9 7,9 7,9
The pulleys in question are for both Comet and Comet-Corona. How many Comets are running around Roossi (and not only) and not count. But the Comet-Crown have not yet been put on a wide sale, but by the efforts of local amateurs, more than ten pieces have been squeezed out of the company, which are under our control. How not to start a project, there are continuous changes in construction, technology, design.
The crown is now the one who watches can appreciate the noticeable changes and not only because of the plastic.
Instead of lining the nuts, you can apparently take a thicker disc.
Something went to the Corona for a 2T powerful engine, without a Honda clutch, probably too much, but every time it's sad to pedal?
Has no one adapted a weaker spring for several years? It is unreliable to bend / shorten the springs on their own.
No, no, I'm just testing a powerful kopeck piece as a new, untested motor. An endless increase in power, followed by the abandonment of pedals, the acquisition of more powerful suspension and wheels, and all this then ends with the purchase of a motorcycle. Our way is the opposite - how to reduce the power, weight, noise, raise the value of the pedals, without compromising the function. (The weight of the bike should not exceed 20kg.)
Soon I will switch again to Honda35 and a new INVISIBLE bag is being made. They started searching for technologies for the production of a motor-wheel Checkmark and possibly with a Honda 25
I have galvanized hardware nuts from the market and from the store, the same as yours. By the way, when processing on a lathe, I noticed that the accuracy and workmanship market hardware is worse (and store hardware does not shine with accuracy). For example, in market tightening nuts, the axis of the threaded hole is not centered, plus is at an angle relative to the edges of the nut. Some bolts have an axle the symmetry of the head is displaced relative to the axis of the threaded part. Also at bolts the plane of the head is not perpendicular to the axis of the bolt.
Why are there such defects? Because hardware nuts and bolts are not turning product, they are stamped. Positional tolerances surfaces about the axes in this case are obtained in kilometers.
As I understand it, we misunderstand each other. I'm talking about this design in general https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3283/forum/viewtopic.php?p=583267#583267 and for some reason you are only talking about pulleys. I fully admit that now the V-ribbed pulleys of the Velokomets have the proper quality and that the turner who fulfills the order has finally acquired a shaped cutter with an angle of 40 degrees, learned to use a small longitudinal feed limb and first drills a hole with a smaller diameter in the pulley, and then bores it cutter to obtain the desired diameter and alignment tolerances (rather than tearing the hole blunt drill with feed 0.5 mm / rev https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3283/forum/album_mod/upload/9a787f75eaf1a7dc880a02204420ca4c.jpg).
This raises the question. What is the beating of the drive pulley after assembling all this design, how the runout is controlled, and how it is eliminated.
What are the effects of the beating of a pulley loaded on a belt with tension? about 20 kg and rotating at a speed of 7000 rpm, probably no need to explain.
Chainsaw device. Chainsaw device diagram: 1 - the fuel mixture is poured into a gas tank, the size of which is within 0.5 liters; 2 - fuel comes from the gas tank
Chainsaw device diagram: 1 - the fuel mixture is poured into a gas tank, the size of which is within 0.5 liters; 2 - from the gas tank, the fuel enters the carburetor where it mixes with air; 3 - from the carburetor, the air-fuel mixture enters the cylinder of the two-stroke engine, where the mixture is ignited by a spark; 4 - crank mechanism (KShM),converting the reciprocating movement of the piston into rotational movement of the shaft; 5 - shaft which is a part of KShM; 6 - centrifugal clutch; 7 - an asterisk driving the saw chain; 8 - saw chain.
This video examines one of the massive breakdowns benzokos Chinese production: hum at work, crunch.
In addition to the listed nodes, the chainsaws have a cleaning system for the air supplied to the carburetor, a tire with a saw chain, a starter, a mechanism chain tension , ignition, muffler, etc.
The chainsaw engine contains the highest revs in the range of 13,500 rpm. This imposes strict claims on the oil added to the fuel mixture.
Chainsaw centrifugal clutch.
At low revolutions, the components with friction linings (1), which have a level of freedom in the radial direction, are attracted to the center of the shaft by springs (2) and do not transfer rotation to the vestibule (3) connected to the sprocket driving the chain. When the speed of the chainsaw motor reaches values at which the centrifugal force exceeds the tension of the springs, the friction sections are pressed against the inner plane of the drum and begin to twist it. As a result, the main sprocket begins to spin, leading to movement saw chain .
Chainsaw centrifugal clutch: 1 - sprocket twisting the saw chain, 2 - clutch vestibule.
As you can see in the photo, the sprocket is located behind the clutch.
Putting the chain on the chainsaw bar. 1 - clutch.
For other chainsaws, the sprocket has the ability to stay on the outside of the clutch.
The sprocket is on the outside of the clutch.
The main advantage of couplings similar to the similarity will be that, in fact, when the chain is jammed, the chainsaw clutch slips without muffling the engine and without causing malfunction of the devices transmitting the movement from the motor to the chain.
Chainsaw ignition system.
The electric ignition of a chainsaw contains a flywheel (1) with built-in magnets, an ignition module (2) with an electrical circuit, a spark plug (3) and a high voltage wire (4). Replacing the trimmer clutch spring. A spinning flywheel with magnets induces an electromotive force in the module, which is converted by means of an electrical circuit into electronic signals supplied to the spark plug. As a result, a spark jumps between the contacts of the latter, igniting the air-fuel mixture.
Chainsaw carburetor. The upper arrow is the fuel hose, the lower arrow is the weightless damper drive.
Chainsaw carburetor. Arrow - throttle lever cable.
Chainsaw carburetor. Arrow - fuel hose.
Disassembled chainsaw carburetor.
Below is a diagram of a different chainsaw carburetor.
Chainsaw carburetor diagram.
Carburetors have a throttle valve that allows leaning or enriching the mixture, depending on the criterion of work. For a narrow option, there are a number of screws, with the help of which the regulation of low and high engine speeds, also idling, is carried out. On top of the carburetor, a weightless filter is specified, cleaning air entering it.
So that as the fuel consistency is consumed, the fuel tank is filled with air and negative pressure is not created in it, which will prevent fuel from entering the carburetor from it, and at the same time, so that fuel does not leak out of the air hole, in the lid that closes the cold hole , a breather is made. And that, if the breather gets clogged with dirt, the chainsaw will stall.
Fuel system: 1 - fuel filter, 2 - carburetor, 3 - manual prepump pump.
From the tank, the fuel is pumped through a sleeve freely dangling in the tank. Thanks to this, regardless of the position of the chainsaw, the sleeve is almost constantly immersed in fuel. A fuel filter is attached to the inlet end of the hose. The fuel is pumped from the inside of the carburetor.
To facilitate starting, the share of chainsaws is equipped with a manual pump for preparatory pumping - a primer.When starting a chainsaw with a primer, the carburetor is filled with fuel in advance (excess fuel flows back into the tank). Thanks to this, the engine starts faster, tk. the stage of filling the carburetor with fuel has already been passed, which without a primer is produced by a carburetor pump using a starter.
Hand pump for preparatory pumping. The fuel is pumped out with a few clicks.
Air purification system: 1 - end closing narrow filter, 2 - filter narrow cleaning , 3 - the end covering the hard cleaning filter, 4 - the hard cleaning filter.
Preparatory filters have every chance of owning a different system and consist of several components, for example, a mesh (2) and snow (1) filter (see photo below).
System of hard air cleaning: 1 - snow filter, 2 - mesh filter.
VIDEO
This video examines one of the massive breakdowns benzokos Chinese production: ringing at work, crunching.
VIDEO
The final one interferes with the ingress of snowfall into the air cleaning system and is used only in winter, at positive temperatures it is removed.
In some models of chainsaws, at the stage of preparatory cleaning, they use air cleaning using centrifugal forces. The weightless jet is twisted by the impeller of the flywheel, as a result of which the impurities are thrown away from the absorption pipe going to the narrow filter.
Centrifugal air cleaning system.
Narrow filters are made from diffusion foam, nylon mesh and other materials.
Filters narrow cleaning for all kinds of chainsaws.
When the chainsaw is working, the air in the zone of its action happens to be very dirty sawdust and wood dust. Excessive contamination of the filter reduces the size of the air entering the carburetor, in fact, which leads to an enrichment of the consistency and a drop in the power of the chainsaw. Husqvarna lawn mower clutch. Therefore, constant cleaning of the filter is needed. It must be carried out not only during this time, when the chainsaw is being disassembled for the purpose of its repair work, but even more often, after all long and unclean work. Cleaning is carried out in a way that depends on the appearance of the filter material - in most cases by blowing and rinsing.
Chainsaw starter device.
The starter mechanism is made from a drum (1) with a cable (2) and a handle (3), and from a frame (4) with a recoil spring. When the handle is pulled upwards, the drum ratchet engages with the teeth on the motor shaft and turns the articulated shaft. When the handle is released, the return spring returns it to its original position.
To turn the articulated shaft at a speed at which the engine starts, a specific voltage is required. It often does not work to start the chainsaw from the 1st jerk, you have to jerk it a couple of times. To facilitate starting, various methods are used - enriching the fuel consistency using the carburetor flap, or lowering the pressure in the cylinder using a decompression valve (to facilitate crankshaft cranking). The valve is made mechanically closing when the pressure in the cylinder increases, which occurs when the consistency is ignited. From time to time, an auxiliary spring is used in the starter mechanism, which, when the cable is pulled out, at first shrinks, and then quickly unclenches, spinning the motor.
The leading and more complex chain links are the cutting links, which are divided into right-side and left-side. The upper border of the tooth is the exceptionally wide of all components. It provides a sweeping cut that prevents other links from getting stuck.
Chipper (a) and chisel (b) tooth configuration.
The configuration of the cutting teeth can vary significantly from chain to manufacturer. There are 2 main forms - chipper (a) and chisel (b). However, there are also different crotch contours of the incisors.
The cutting edges of the tooth - side and top - are sharpened at a specific angle.It is 10 ° for rip sawing chains and 30 ° for rip sawing. Replacing the clutch with a benzotrimmer. Rip sawing chains are rarely used. If the need arises, ripping can be performed with a cross-sawing chain. For more information on the angles of sharpening chainsaw chains, read the article Sharpening the chainsaw chain.
The leading feature of the chain is its pitch. To establish the chain pitch, the distance between the midpoints of 1 and the third of the rivets is measured (see sketch below), and this volume is halved. The acquired total is the chain pitch in mm. However, as a rule, the chain pitch is specified in inches. The distance between the midpoints of 1 and the third connecting rivets is measured therefore, in fact, that the distances between the holes of the main links and cutting links or connecting links have all the chances to differ in size. The more common chains are 0.325 and 3/8 inches (8.255 and 9.525 mm, respectively). Chains with a pitch of 0.325 are used with low power engines (up to 40-50 cm 3), while massive chainsaws are usually equipped with 0.404 inch chains (these chains have the highest performance). The cut comes out more clean and careful if you use a chain with the smallest link width and the smallest pitch when cutting.
Chain pitch (a / 2) and shank thickness (b)
Shank thickness is a key feature. There are 5 common thicknesses: 1.1, 1.3, 1.5, 1.6 and 2 mm. The most common chains are those with a shank width of 1.3 mm (0.05 ″). They are ubiquitously used on both home and professional chainsaws. The thickness of the main links must be matched to the groove width of the guide bar, so that the saw chain will surely fit the guide bar.
Chain manufacturers use different technologies for their preparation and use different materials. The defining feature of the latter is not hardness (very hard teeth do not lend themselves well to manual sharpening), but toughness and impact resistance. Replacing the clutch benzotrimmer calm. They directly determine the durability of the chain. Therefore, when preparing cutting teeth, wear-resistant alloy steels are used. Cutters are often chrome plated to increase surface hardness. Some companies use shot blasting to increase the toughness of the teeth.
To guide the chain, the tire contains a guide groove on its own periphery, in which the main links of the chain move. The groove of the groove works immediately as a channel supplying oil for lubricating the chain. The main characteristics of the tire include:
The main characteristics of a chainsaw tire.
The volumes of the connecting holes (a), depending on like a chainsaw. The width of the groove (b), which must correspond to the thickness of the shanks of the chain used. The groove width of the bar is only a few hundredths of a mm larger than the thickness of the main links of the respective saw chains. Thanks to this, a clear lateral guidance of the saw chain is achieved. The pitch of the end sprocket (c), in addition, determines the comparability of the applied chains with the bus. The length of the cut (g), which determines the volume of the processed material - the diameter of the tree trunk, etc.
The connection of the chain brake can be contact and inertial. The first happens when the brake stop (1) is pressed on the worker's hand, which happens spontaneously when the saw is thrown back. Petrol trimmer clutch device. The resulting displacement of the stop leads to tightening of the brake band (2) on the clutch drum clutches and its stopping, as a result of which the saw chain also stops.
The inertial connection of the brake is based on the inertial forces generated by a sharp impact on the tire and acting on the brake components, in fact, which leads, among other things, to the result, in fact, as in the first case - tightening the brake band and stopping the chain.The inertial connection of the brake happens faster than the contact one. However, the second is more firmly. Any preparation for work, as well as the assembly of the chainsaw as a result of its repair work or maintenance, must end by checking the operation of the chain brake. If it does not turn on, the saw follows in the footsteps of being considered faulty.
Chainsaw chain tensioning mechanism.
For maximum convenience, the chain tensioning screw can be positioned from the side.
Side location of the chain tensioning screw.
Oil pumps have a different system (piston or diaphragm like) and are made of different materials (metal or plastic). They are driven into action by means of a gear train, which receives its movement from the main sprocket. When the engine is idling (main sprocket and chain are not spinning), oil flow does not occur. The pump performance depends on the number of revolutions of the main sprocket, the higher they are, which means more oil goes to the saw chain. Some oil pumps are equipped with a manual capacity control mechanism - using an adjusting screw (1).
1) Malfunction trimmer clutch: At idle, the knife turns almost always, extraneous sounds are heard in the front of the engine, while the trimmer mows normally. The grip of the brushcutter is the same as that of the trimmer. Causes malfunctions: The trimmer clutch spring has burst (the brushcutter clutch spring has burst). Repair DIY trimmer: Replace the broken clutch spring with a new one (for details, see below "How to remove the clutch on the trimmer"). Or, if only the edge of the hook breaks off on the spring, you can heat the spring with a burner, bend one ring to make a new hook and harden the spring (such a clutch spring can even work for several years). Do-it-yourself repair of petrol cutters is similar to repairing a trimmer. Oschadbank in Kremenchug. Let's continue ...
2) Malfunction Trimmer Clutch: The trimmer clutch often slips, sometimes the clutch spring bursts. The grip of the brushcutter is like a trimmer. Causes malfunctions: Worn trimmer clutch pads (brushcutters clutch pads). Repair DIY chainsaws: Replace the trimmer clutch pads (see details below "How to remove the clutch on the trimmer"). Do-it-yourself petrol brush repair is the same as trimmer repair.
To remove the clutch on the trimmer (removing the clutch on a petrol cutter is the same), you must first remove the muffler cover, metal stand, starter cover and cylinder cover so that they do not interfere with removing the trimmer clutch cover.
Remove the shock absorber cover (by unscrewing the two side screws), release the bolt tightening the shock absorber and remove the pipe from the shock absorber.
Unscrew 3 or 4 bolts and remove the clutch cover.
We evaluate the wear of the pads and the clutch drum, see if the spring is broken, and inspect the condition of the bearing.
To replace, for example, the clutch pads (weights) of the trimmer, it is necessary to remove the clutch spring, and then unscrew the axle bolts on the pads (if necessary, after locking the crankshaft, pushing a rope into the plug hole when the piston is in BDC).
While the trimmer is idling, the clutch pads, although they rotate with the crankshaft, do not touch the clutch drum, since they are compressed by a spring and do not transmit torque from the engine to the cutting equipment. When the engine is running at speeds above idle (above 4000 rpm), the clutch weights are expanded under the influence of centrifugal force (overcoming the spring force) and resting their outer friction surface against the inner surface of the clutch drum, they begin to rotate it, thereby transmitting torque from motor on the trimmer cutting equipment (or petrol cutters).
Read also:
Hello, tell me why the springs are breaking on the clutch of the petrol scooter.
Tell me, the clutch pads can be restored somehow (the pads are worn out). to rivet, glue, and from what material to make an overlay. Or where to buy pads with the size of the diameter of the pads assembly-58mm, axial inter-bolt -40mm.
A similar story is absolutely! There is nowhere to buy, but I don’t know how and what to glue on the pads. I want, at the extreme, to lock the clutch and work without it. Kuzmich.
Kuzmich, and buy a clutch in an online store? Search for "buy trimmer clutch" and search online for your trimmer clutch. If it is your clutch that is not there, contact (call, write off) a sales consultant or an online store manager and they will be happy to select or order the necessary clutch for the trimmer. If you don’t help in one store, talk to another, etc., until you find the hardware you need! The main thing is not to retreat! Now on the Internet, I think you can even buy an international space station in disassembled form. 🙂 In addition, it is cheaper on the Internet than in land-based stores (maybe several times). And immediately you can find out the methods and cost of delivery (also not expensive). The disadvantages of buying in an online store are that the goods cannot be touched / sniffed before buying and you have to wait for the ordered goods for several days, and if from abroad, you will have to wait from 2 weeks to 2 months. I will try to figure out how to restore the clutch for the trimmer in the near future and unsubscribe here.
Can be glued with several layers of nylon stockings (tights) by pressing with clamps and heating. Heating over the burner plate. Heating control at the exit of the melt from the joints. Valery. Good luck !.
How to restore the trimmer clutch pads
If there is nowhere to buy a trimmer clutch, or if the necessary spare parts are not on sale, or if it is expensive, or there is no time to wait for ordered parts, or you just love repairing the tremmer with your own hands, then the trims on the trimmer clutch pads can be restored by yourself. The same applies to a brush cutter, a petrol cutter, a brushcutter, an electric cutter, a chainsaw, a gas cutter and any other technique with a centrifugal clutch.
To do this, you need the actual trimmer clutch pads (prepare yourself) and get a special glue that will withstand severe overheating and heavy loads that transmit torque from the engine to the cutting unit. You also need to check if there is any mechanical wear on the bolts and metal parts of the trimmer clutch pads or the chainsaw clutch (look, it may be time to change the trimmer clutch assembly).
What and how to make trimmer clutch pads (or chainsaw clutch pads).
For pads on the clutch pads of the trimmer, you can use the rear drum brake pad of any foreign car or motorcycle, which (pads) contains asbestos, graphite, aluminum and brass dust (not chips).
To give the brake pad the required curvature, drill 2 holes at the edges of this pad (if not there), tie the ends of the pad with a wire, pull this wire (start pulling the ends of the pad) by threading a metal knob into the wire (you can use a suitable nail) and rotating it , twist the wire and thus pull together the ends of the lining.
When the wire is stretched (without fanaticism, so as not to break the pad), lower it into a suitable saucepan or bucket of water, bring to a boil and cook for 5-10 minutes. Then we take out the overlay, we also tighten the ends of the overlay, twisting the wire with a knob and turning it over, cook again for 5-10 minutes. And we do this until the lining takes on a curvature corresponding to the curvature (radius) of the trimmer clutch pad (or the chainsaw clutch, if we do for it).
When, after another pulling out of the boiling water and comparing the car brake lining with the trimmer clutch pad, we made sure that the pad has accepted the radius of the clutch pad, we leave this pad, still tightened with wire, to dry until tomorrow.
Then we remove the wire from the lining, remove the dimensions of the future linings from the shoe, cut the linings for the clutch shoes of our trimmer from the car brake lining. We grind the edges with emery so that the new linings exactly match the dimensions of the clutch pads. That's it, we already have trimmer clutch pads. Now you need to stick them on the trimmer clutch pads (petrol cutters, motor cutters, electric cutters, chainsaws).
How to glue trimmer clutch pads (or chainsaw clutch pads).
1. Take the BF-2 glue. This is a medical high-temperature adhesive with a working temperature of up to + 200 ° C (BF-6 is not suitable - it can withstand temperatures only up to + 90 ° C).
2. We grease both parts with glue - the perfectly cleaned and degreased surface of the trimmer clutch pad and the mating (inner) surface of the clutch pad lining. We leave them to lie in the air for about 30 minutes. Then we repeat this procedure 1 more time (we smear both parts with glue and let them lie down for 30 minutes).
3. Lubricate with glue for the third time, press the pads to the pads using clamps with a semicircular bracket in the shape of the pads, so that the pressure is uniform over the entire surface of the lining (or you can press the pad to the pads, tightly and evenly wrapping them with a suitable wire).
4. We place it all in an electric (not gas!) Oven preheated to + 200 ... + 230 ° С for 40 minutes.
5. We take it out of the oven and, without disassembling it, let it cool to room temperature.
6. After the parts have cooled down, remove the fasteners and check if the pads are stuck to the trimmer clutch pads. Then, on emery, we adjust the thickness of the new linings to the desired size (so that the clutch pads with the new linings fit into the clutch drum), file the edges and roughness with a file. Then we assemble the trimmer clutch, check the braid at work and, happy, run to tell our neighbor.
Note: if the glue is in the form of sheets with a thickness of about 1 mm , on both sides covered with a film (so as not to stick together). You need to cut off a piece of this glue so that the size matches the size of the onlay. Then immerse it in acetone for a few seconds, put it on a previously well-cleaned block, and on top - an overlay. Immediately, you need to press the pad to the block with a clamp and place it all in the oven for 15-20 minutes. Everything. Glued for centuries.
Note: also very good (can be used) glue for VS-10 or VS-350 overlays.
Note: so that the pads do not fall off, do not use "super glues" with an operating temperature of up to + 120 ° C. For gluing trimmer clutch pads and pads (petrol cutter clutch, chainsaw clutch, etc.), it is better to use the adhesives recommended above.
Valera! You are a very smart and kind person, which modern society lacks. I will do everything according to your "recipe", and then write down how it happened. Many thanks! Best regards, Kuzmich.
Video (click to play).
I did just that, just glued it with epoxy.