DIY clutch repair VAZ 2109

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2109 clutch from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The clutch in a car serves as the connector between the engine and the transmission. This unit takes over all the load that occurs when changing gears. Accordingly, the part can rightfully be considered a consumable, because car owners are regularly faced with the need to replace it or scheduled maintenance.

It is almost impossible to influence the degree of wear of this unit. Therefore, after working out the clutch resource, it must be changed partially or completely (in case of serious malfunctions).

The mechanism needs service in the following situations:

The clutch "leads". Motor power drops.
Node slippage is observed or incomplete activation occurs.
Clicks are heard when shifting gears.
The clutch is automatically disengaged.
Vibration is noticed when the clutch pedal is depressed.

In each of the above cases, it is recommended to carry out partial maintenance or replace the unit in question.

Following all the recommendations from the manual from the automaker does not guarantee the fact that everything is done simply and quickly. Not every car owner has the ability to drive a car into a pit or overpass. The lift is perfect for work, but not everyone has it either.

When contacting any service, the replacement will be made within a couple of hours, but for such a service you will need to pay a considerable amount. For independent work, it may take a whole day. Maybe more if you have no experience in car repair.

Most of the time is spent on disassembly and assembly. The operation to replace the node will take you no more than half an hour. Later in the article we will look at the process of replacing the clutch without a pit / lift.

Almost every car owner is interested in the question: is it possible to perform a replacement without dismantling the gearbox? You are unlikely to find a definite answer, but the procedure is quite feasible.

First, find a few large stumps up to 40 cm high, and also get some extra blocks. To prevent the car from falling corny during the work, take care of installing a pair of ordinary wheels under the car.

Video (click to play).

To remove the gearbox or not - you will have to answer this question specifically. Because with careless actions, the checkpoint can simply fall to the ground, and lifting it from under the car will be very problematic.

Disconnect the battery first so that the mains supply to the machine is de-energized. Then you can go to the process displayed in the following list:

Remove the wheels and move them away from the machine.
Dismantle the steering tips, free the struts.
Unscrew the bolts securing the ball joint.
Remove the engine protection with a cable.
The next step is to drain the oil from the box.
Loosen the rocker nut, remove it.
Unscrew the nuts on the two pillows.
Place a jack or other support under the engine.
Disconnect the reverse sensor.
Disconnect the wires from the starter, unscrew the nuts and dismantle it.
Unscrew the nuts on the flywheel guard and fork.
In this step, remove the CV joint from the right side. The left side should not be dismantled.
Remove the bolts securing to the transmission unit.
In the last step, unscrew the nuts that are located above the right CV joint.

After the preparatory work has been carried out, you can remove the box. However, take your time. Take the two bolts from the upper arm to continue. These elements have a suitable thread for our situation.Screw them in from above and you can start separating the nodes with a crowbar. This clutch replacement scheme is very time consuming. Remove the release bearing through the gap and unscrew the basket bolts.

Compared to the instruction manual, the replacement process is slightly different. The new release bearing is installed in place. Next, the disc is placed on the flywheel, and only then the basket is put on top.

The bolts must be tightened approximately two turns. They should not be tightened too much. In the next step, with the utmost care begin to slide the input shaft onto the disc splines.

During the replacement process, pay attention to the petals of the basket. These elements have an insignificant resource of work. Therefore, if necessary, they should also be replaced.

After carrying out operations to replace the clutch, assemble the car in the reverse order. On this we can assume that the repair is over.

Summing up, we note that from the article you learned how to replace the clutch on a VAZ-2109 with your own hands. If you feel a lack of experience in car repair, then the best way out of the situation would be to contact a service station. In this case, you will save a lot of time, nerves and money.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation of our corporate lawyer by simply asking your question in the form below.

Hello dear readers my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3067. In the previous article we talked about clutch malfunctions, as well as how to adjust it, today I will continue the topic of the clutch and talk about how to replace the clutch on a VAZ 2109 (2108, 2114, 2115). To your attention, a step-by-step photo report on replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands.

A set of keys (end, ring).
Inspection pit.
New clutch for VAZ 2109.
Jack.
"Straight hands" and 4-5 hours of free time.

We drive into the pit and tighten the handbrake.
Next, you need to disconnect the "minus" from the battery.
On the left side, remove the engine splash shield.
Using a chisel, it is necessary to unlock and then unscrew the hub nuts from both front wheels.
Place a jack under the left wheel, jack it up and remove it.
Next, unscrew the two bolts securing the ball joint and remove the drive from the hub.
Unscrew the two upper box mounting bolts, instead of them, tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts from the VAZ 2108.

7. Next, you need to remove the starter, for this you need to unscrew three nuts.

8. Place a jack under the power unit and unscrew the side engine support.

9. Unscrew the rocker for gear shifting, as well as the rear support of the power unit.

10. Remove the clutch guard.

11. Remove the front box securing bolt.

12. Then unscrew the rear transmission mounting nut.

13. Now it is necessary to remove the checkpoint along the upper bolts from the side of the left wing until it stops.

14. The end of the box will rest on the arm extension.
15. Using the formed gap, remove the clutch.

16. Lubricate the guide, then install the release bearing.

17. After you need to bait the leading, as well as the driven discs.

18. Put the check point on the guides and tighten the two lower bolts. Then, while rotating the crankshaft, tighten the clutch basket evenly.

All subsequent assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Upon completion, adjust the clutch, as I wrote in the previous article.

Basket, release bearing and clutch disc vaz 2109

The "clutch" unit carries out a short-term disconnection of the engine (motor) from the transmission, their smooth connection when switching gears on and off, and also protects all parts of the transmission from excessive overloads, gently dampens vibrations. If, the car starts to shake, or it slips when you release the clutch pedal, or suddenly there are extraneous noises, crackling, rattling, it means that the clutch repair of the VAZ 2109 is necessary.
Repair at a service station will cost a round sum, so every owner who understands technology is able to do this procedure with his own hands. You too will learn by reading our article and you can save your money.

Extraneous sounds, grinding, slipping - all these are just signs of a clutch malfunction.
And it is more important for us to understand the reasons:

Stretched clutch cable
Strong wear of the very surface of the driven disk (up to rivets)
The appearance of cracks and flaws on the driven disc (for example, destruction of linings)
Diaphragm springs broken or bent
Broken or deflected drive disc petals
Flywheel development appeared
Release bearing worn out
The clutch fork is bent

A simple superficial examination cannot reveal these malfunctions - you will have to disassemble.

We start by removing the cable (it does not require removing the box):

Armed with a standard set of tools, we enter the overpass, or the lift, you can go to the pit
Removing the terminals from the battery
First, we hang out the front of the car, unscrew and remove the wheels
Then we disconnect, and the ground wire from the gearbox housing

Remove the clutch cable.
The operation is simple:

First unscrew all adjusting nuts
Then carefully inspect the clutch system, try to remember the location of its parts
Then we remove the lower end of the cable from the bracket

We unscrew the adjusting nuts, remove the lower end of the cable from the bracket

Disconnect the cable from the clutch fork lever
Then remove the retaining bracket from the pedal finger located inside the passenger compartment.
Disconnect the tip of the cable from the pedal

Remove the stopper and disconnect the cable from the pedal

From the side of the engine compartment, take out the rubber cushion, which stands in the hole in the bulkhead
Then we pull the cable end towards the engine compartment through this hole
We completely remove the clutch cable, inspect it, install a new one if necessary
Make sure that the bushing located between the rubber pads fits into the bracket located on the gearbox, otherwise you will damage the threads
After installation, be sure to adjust the clutch actuator

If the whole problem was in the cable, the repair is complete, but more often the problem is much deeper.

To get to the rest of the clutch parts, you will have to remove the gearbox, our instructions will help you:

We start removing the box by removing the starter (see Do-it-yourself VAZ 2109 starter repair - an opportunity to save a lot)
We unscrew the three nuts that secure it (one of them is located on the back of the starter housing)
Do not forget to unscrew all the wires and terminals
We loosen the clamp of the gearshift drive, pull it off
Remove the speedometer cable
Remove the reverse sensor wire block
We unscrew the fastenings of the stretch marks
Having unscrewed the fastening nuts of the stretch marks, we take them (stretch marks) to the sides.
Next, we press out the support pin from the pivot arm
We first take out the cotter pin and unscrew the nut
We unscrew two bolts to disconnect the entire hinge from the steering knuckle
We squeeze out the tip of the inner CV joint with a pry bar
We plug the hole in the box, otherwise oil will spill when removing
Moving on to the clutch housing:
To remove the bottom protection, unscrew the three bolts
Be sure to support the motor and the box on stands or bars, or hang the unit with a winch
First we unscrew the rear support, and then the left

Now let's move on to the box itself:

It is not recommended to remove the box alone, it is better to call an assistant
We unscrew the fasteners of the box body (three bolts and a nut)
We pull off the gearbox strictly horizontally, do not touch the pressure spring petals with the input shaft (if you break them, the repair price will increase)
Carefully place the box on the floor, remove it so it does not interfere underfoot

After removing the gearbox, remove the plug and bearing, for this:

Using a screwdriver, gently pry off the protective cover
We take out the cover from the hole in the box body
Replace torn or loose cover
With pliers, we squeeze the retainer petals from the inside of the clutch housing and at the same time hook up with a screwdriver from the outside to remove the plastic sleeve on the clutch fork axis
If the bushing is worn out, or the petals of its retainer are damaged, replace the bushing
Lift the clutch fork and remove the fork axle from the bushing, which is pressed into the clutch housing
We remove the clutch fork, remove the axle, then the lever through the hole in the clutch housing.
We remove the ends of the spring from the legs of the bearing clutch, squeeze the ends with a screwdriver

Spring that presses the bearing sleeve to the fork

Remove the release bearing from the guide sleeve
We inspect the condition of the fork, if the legs are bent or have a workout, the fork should be replaced
Seized, poorly rotating, squeaky bearing must be replaced
If the bearing sleeve is chipped, damaged legs, or bearing seat, it must be replaced.
Installing the fork with the bearing back

And so we move on to disassembling and troubleshooting the clutch:

Now we need a special mandrel so that our driven disc does not fall out.
Instead, the old input shaft is fine.
Fix the drive disc with a strong screwdriver, from turning
Unscrew all the bolts securing the basket
Insert the mandrel and remove the entire clutch assembly

Tip 1: When loosening the bolts securing the clutch basket, lock the flywheel with a screwdriver. Install the bolt for better screwdriver stop

Advice 2: You can remove the clutch basket without the help of a mandrel, while you just need to hold the driven disc, in order to prevent it from falling out of the clutch cover, it will be needed when putting the basket in place. The mandrel must either be milled (ordered) according to the shape and diameter of the input shaft or use the old input shaft

Insert the mandrel into the hole for the input shaft (photo below)
Unscrew the bolts securing the clutch basket to the flywheel (see tips 1 and 2)

Unscrew the clutch basket

It looks like a driven disk vaz 2109

We check the wear of its friction linings.
We replace the friction linings or the driven disc entirely in the following cases:

Rivet head deepening less than 0.2mm
The surface of the linings is oiled
Riveted joints are loose
Cracks and chipping of linings are observed

If they are broken, the disc must be replaced.

If you find a warped disc, then check it for runout.

When the runout value is more than 0.5 mm, replace the disc

We inspect the rubbing surfaces of the flywheel and the removed pressure plate:

Deep grooves, nicks, scuff marks, traces of overheating and wear are not allowed

Clutch plate pressure plate surface

Loosening of the riveted parts of the pressure plate is not permitted.
If defects are found in the flywheel or pressure plate, it is recommended to replace them.

We carefully inspect and evaluate the suitability of the diaphragm spring, as well as the support rings of the removed pressure plate:

Serviceable diaphragm spring

Support rings with cracks and signs of wear indicate basket replacement
The presence of cracks (chips) on the diaphragm spring is not allowed
The contact points of the spring petals with the release bearing should be located in the same plane, while not showing visible signs of wear
We put the driven disk in the basket so that the least protruding part of its hub looks towards the flywheel

The most protruding part of the driven disk looks towards the gearbox

We insert the mandrel into the splines of our driven disk
Install the basket on the flywheel and tighten it with six bolts to the flywheel
We tighten the bolts evenly and diagonally, with a torque of 1.9-3.1 kgf m

We twist the clutch basket into place, evenly and diagonally squeezing the mounting bolts

The centering mandrel can now be removed.
Lubricate the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox and the inner surface of the release bearing with grease (a thin layer)
Reinstall the gearbox
Get help from a partner again

After finishing work, adjust the tension of the cable and check the clutch operation:

Loosen the lock nut located at the lower end of the cable
By twisting the adjusting nut, set the required pedal travel
Press the pedal several times, until it stops on the floor, check the pedal stroke again, tighten the lock nut

This completes the clutch repair, we recommend that you additionally watch the video.

We remove the “negative” terminal from the battery “4”, remove the connector from the mass air flow sensor (MAF) “2”, loosen the clamp fastening the corrugation to the MAF “3”, remove the air filter case “1” from the car.

Remove the clutch cable from the clutch fork. We loosen the two nuts securing the cable to the bracket on the gearbox.

Remove the clutch cover. Disconnect the ground wire and the top dead center sensor from the clutch housing. Disconnect the wires from the reversing light switch. We drain the oil.

We unscrew the 3 bolts securing the bracket to the body. We unscrew the nut securing the arm extension.

We jack up the car. We remove the two bolts "1" and disconnect the ball joint of the suspension arm from the steering knuckle. We unscrew the nut "2" fastening the brace to the suspension arm, take out the longitudinal brace together with the lever.

We remove the wheel, unscrew the hub nut and unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the steering knuckle, then remove the CV joint from the bearing hole.

Resting the pry bar on the gearbox housing, we press in the inner joint of the drive from the half-axle gear, for this we sharply hit the body of the inner joint with a hammer. We knock out the hinge from the side gear.

Fastening the ball joint without front wheel drive.

We loosen the tightening of the clamp and disconnect the shift drive rod from the gear selection hinge. It is also necessary to place a support under the engine, otherwise it may sink too low and tear off the hoses for the interior heater.

After unscrewing the mounting bolts of the rear suspension support of the power unit, we remove the suspension bracket from the lugs of the body side member.

Using the "17" wrench, unscrew the nut and take out the bolt of the left engine support. Unscrew the three starter mounting nuts and remove the starter.

Using a 19 key, unscrew three bolts and one nut that secures the clutch housing to the cylinder block, remove the gearbox from the engine and remove it.

Using a spanner wrench "8", unscrew the six bolts securing the clutch cover to the flywheel. To easily turn off the bolts, we tap their heads with a copper hammer. You can also use the “8” head to loosen the bolts.

Remove the driven and driving clutch discs. We check the degree of wear of the friction linings. If the rivet heads are deepened less than 0.2 mm, the surface of the friction linings is oiled or the rivet joints are loose, the disc must be replaced. Cracks or mechanical damage on the parts of the driven disk are not allowed.

If a visual inspection reveals a loosening of the riveted joints of the clutch basket parts and the drive disc, then the drive clutch disc assembly should be replaced.

We lubricate the release bearing seat on the shaft, as well as the clutch fork guides, then install the bearing.

Putting on the clutch, orient the driven disc with the protruding part towards the drive disc and insert the centering mandrel.

We insert the mandrel into the bore of the crankshaft and in this position we fix the driving clutch disc, evenly (one revolution per pass) tightening the bolts. We tighten the bolts no more than one turn each so as not to deform the flange of the clutch disc. Putting everything together in reverse order.

Clutch breakage is one of the troubles that can lie in wait for the driver on the road. Usually, the car simply stops moving, while the motor is working normally. Such a breakdown does not always occur suddenly, often before this one can observe some signs of an imminent breakdown.

The clutch VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 consists of a basket, a pressure bearing, a drive and a driven disc.The main signs of a clutch malfunction are clutch slippage and incomplete disengagement:

At incomplete shutdown (pedal pressed) there is a difficult shift in gears with the engine running, noises and crackling when shifting gears, a large free travel of the clutch pedal.
At Clutch slip (the pedal is released) you can smell a burning smell in the cabin from burning clutch disc linings, the dynamics of the car will deteriorate, the engine may overheat, and fuel consumption will increase.

In addition to the clutch disc itself, the release bearing can also fail - it serves to smoothly engage and disengage the clutch. With extreme wear of the release bearing, you can hear a characteristic squeal - this is a sure sign that the bearing needs to be replaced. The reason for the failure of the clutch can also be a breakdown in the mechanism of its drive, for example, a breakage or jamming of the clutch drive cable, breakdown of the lever system, fluid leakage from the hydraulic drive, if the clutch is hydraulic, or other similar breakdowns in the drive.

By the way, when replacing the release bearing at a service station, you may be advised to replace the clutch disc as well. Usually, if problems with the clutch begin, then it is better to replace all these parts, because replacing the clutch is very difficult: it is necessary to remove the gearbox. But if someone wants to save money on this, then all clutch parts can be bought separately.

To work, you will need the following:

keys for 8, 10, 13, 17 mm;
torque wrench, socket 8 mm;
jack;
container for draining oil;
observation hole or lift.
flat screwdriver, hammer.

It is quite difficult to replace the VAZ 2109/21099 clutch without removing the gearbox. You will not find instructions and recommendations in the vehicle manual on this topic. This recommendation is based on the experience of a motorist who shares their experience in clutch replacement.

The main problem when replacing the clutch is that not every motorist has a flyover, a pit, and even more a lift, and it is necessary to make sure that the massive gearbox does not fall to the ground. And lifting it is problematic, since it is impossible to crawl under the car with it. All actions to remove the checkpoint almost do not differ from the above instructions, with the exception of nuances:

Purchase two bolts from the store for the upper arm of the classic front suspension. Their thread is exactly the same as on those bolts that tighten the box and the engine block.
Screw them in from above, only after that, with a small crowbar or screwdriver, we begin to disconnect the nodes. The rear part of the box, after moving away, will lie on the transverse rod, and a gap of about 15 centimeters is formed between the clutch housing and the flywheel.
Through the gap formed, the release bearing is removed, the bolts on the basket are unscrewed.

But the installation is slightly different from the process shown in the instructions:

Put the new clutch release in its place. Then a disc is installed on the flywheel and a basket on top of it.
Throw in the bolts just a couple of turns, but do not tighten!
Carefully begin to slide the input shaft onto the splines in the disc.
Then we move the box back and tighten the bolts on the basket. Tightening of the basket mounting bolts occurs only after the box is installed in its place.
After that, you can put the gearbox and tighten the bolts on it.