homeThe bestDo-it-yourself opel astra n hub repair
Do-it-yourself opel astra n hub repair
In detail: do-it-yourself Opel Astra n hub repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Front hub Opel Astra H - how to replace an assembly with a wheel bearing (1.4, 1.6, 1.8, LPG, CDTI, station wagon)
In the Opel Astra H car, the front hub bearing is located directly in the front hub housing itself. This design is not collapsible, therefore, to replace the front hub bearing with the Opel Astra N, you just need to remove the old hub assembly and install a new one, without pressing out the bearing itself. Inside there is also a wheel rotation sensor, in the event of a malfunction of which the hub assembly also changes entirely.
The price of a complete part is significantly higher than that of a standard ball bearing. Opel Astra H is a car above average in class, therefore, a lot of money (2000-3000 rubles) is also taken for this type of repair in a car repair shop.
From the foregoing, the conclusion suggests itself - it is more expedient to replace the front hub with the Opel Astra H on your own, moreover, during the repair, you will not need special tools, as well as the professional skills of a car mechanic.
The first significant signs that the front hub bearing of the Opel Astra H has begun to malfunction is extraneous noise from the wheel. Additional signs: vibration in the cabin, grinding sound, sensor instability, heating, wheel play. To check the hub bearing on the Opel Astra N, perform the following operations:
First, the front wheel is hung out, on the side where the malfunctions (noise) are replaced;
Next, we spin the wheel with our hands to make sure that the noise comes from it;
The backlash and smoothness of rotation are immediately checked;
If possible, measure the axial play with an indicator, the value should not exceed 0.05 mm;
The heating of the hub part is checked immediately after the vehicle is stopped;
Watch a selection of videos on diagnostics, as well as examples of the operation of a faulty bearing in the Opel Astra H 1.6-1.8 hub.
Video (click to play).
The wheel bearing hummed:
How to check the hub assembly:
Front wheel hub bearing diagnostics:
- Frequent overheating of the part due to insufficient lubrication; - Ingress of dirt or moisture due to depressurization of the oil seals (seals); - Not thrifty driving on irregularities on the road (holes, potholes, curbs); - Expiration of the specified service life declared by the manufacturer. - Defect or manufacturing defect of the unit.
The Opel Astra H wheel bearing assembly is a standard flange piece with a double-row angular contact closed ball bearing pressed inside. The complete assembly is attached to the steering knuckle as well as to the drive shaft. The images below show the assembly layout, with a list of optional parts and fasteners.
Replacing the Opel Astra H wheel bearing begins with preparatory measures. Park your car on a level area with good lighting. Then we put wheel chocks under the rear wheels, remove the handbrake and engage in neutral. For repairs, you will need a standard set of spanners or ratchet sockets, as well as a jack. For the safety of the work, first loosen the wheel bolts and the drive shaft locknut, and only then raise the car with a jack.
After removing the wheel and unscrewing the hub lock nut, remove the brake caliper. To begin with, bend the retaining friction pad (spring) to the side with a screwdriver. Next, remove the caps of the rear mounting bolts.
We unscrew the rear mounting bolts.After that, removing the caliper, we hang it to the shock absorber spring.
Now we unscrew the brake disc with the TORX T30 head.
After removing the brake disc, take a hammer and carefully knock out the drive shaft.
We unscrew the bolted connection at the ball joint. Then we insert the screwdriver into the groove and hammer in with a hammer to unclench the fasteners.
Carefully hammer the suspension arm with a hammer to dislodge the ball end from the steering knuckle.
We turn the fist to gain access to the rear hub flange bolts to unscrew them.
After that, it is necessary to disconnect the ABS sensor wire in order to remove and replace the Opel Astra N. wheel bearing.
Before changing the wheel bearing, it is necessary to check the condition of the drive shaft and steering knuckle splines, as well as the tightness of the CV joint. Replacing the front hub bearing on the Opel Astra H is performed according to the instructions.
We prepare a new spare part for installation by removing the plastic cover. Then we point it to the mounting holes and screw it to the steering knuckle.
We connect the ABS sensor wire.
Next, insert the ball tip into the hole, screw it back to the fist, install the brake disc with the caliper in reverse order.
At the end of the assembly, tighten the lock nut with a torque wrench. For the tightening torque, see the corresponding article on our website or the technical information below.
Install the cotter pin, then screw the wheel back into place. This completes the replacement of the wheel bearing on the Opel Astra H car.
The choice of a hub bearing for the Opel Astra N by number and manufacturer should be taken seriously, since the cost of the part is 4000-9000 rubles. High-tech hub assemblies with integrated double-row angular contact wheel bearing and ABS (magnetic ring) sensor are best purchased from renowned bearing manufacturers. For example, the wheel bearing for the Opel Astra N from SKF (SKF), according to reviews, is one of the best among all analogues (price around 7,000 rubles)... Original spare parts from General Motors are also famous for their reliability, but the price of a product of this particular brand exceeds 16,000 rubles.
Below is a summary table with brief information on the recommended replacement ball bearings (price, article, completeness). The original wheel bearing number is 1603254 (Opel).
Hub bearings wear out rather quickly, because the quality of roads in Russia is far from the best quality. The first symptom of a worn bearing is a characteristic hum, which is more clearly audible at speeds over 60 km. At one o'clock. In this case, it is recommended to replace the bearings as quickly as possible.
It is better to change bearings in pairs, since if the first one buzzes, then the second one will soon also start, because the chassis wears out approximately evenly.
On the Opel Astra, the original wheel bearings are supplied immediately with a hub and an ABS sensor.
For the procedure for replacing the front wheel bearings, you will need:
Jack.
Observation pit
E type socket set (reverse sprocket).
Vorotok.
Lever extension.
Hammers.
WD-40.
Raise the vehicle from the required side with a jack.
Dismantle the wheel.
Open the brake pads.
Remove the hub nut protective cap.
Remove the hub nut. This is not so easy, since it is fixed according to the standard with a force of 280 N.m. Even putting the car in gear, the axle shaft will still scroll. To successfully unscrew the hub nut, do the following:
Remove the center plug from the disc and hang the wheel on two bolts.
Lower the vehicle from the jack.
Now you can apply all your weight and unscrew the nut.
Remove the ABS sensor mounting connector, which is located on the shock absorber strut.
Unscrew the brake caliper completely. But you don't need to completely disassemble it.
Remove the brake disc from the vehicle hub. If the disc changes, then you can simply knock it out with a hammer. If not, you need to use WD-40 and knock down the brake disc with light tapping. If you have a brake disc remover, you can remove it even faster.
Now it is recommended to pull the axle shaft out of the hub and free up space for work, that is, for dismantling the hub bolts.
To unscrew the axle shaft from the hub, it is necessary to unscrew the lower ball arm from the steering knuckle. It is necessary to twist with two knobs, since this is a "bolt with a nut".
Carefully remove the axle shaft after removing the ball shaft. The axle shaft is splined, care must be taken. The main thing is not to rip out the axle shaft from the gearbox, as you can immediately lose the transmission oil.
Now you can see the three bolts securing the hub to the steering knuckle.
It is necessary to unscrew them and remember at what angle the ABS sensor wire comes out. This angle must be remembered for further installation, so that the sensor wire was installed correctly. Otherwise, there won't be enough length. The most important thing to remember is that the wire comes out from the side of the brake caliper.
Now you need to remove the hub. Here you need to be even more careful, since there is no place to hit the hub, you cannot get close from the inside, because there is an ABS sensor. Plus, a mud guard is installed in the hub. In general, at this point it is necessary to carefully, step by step, remove the hub.
After removing the hub, the ABS sensor will remain in the steering knuckle. It must be carefully removed.
Carefully knock the ABS sensor off the new hub.
Install the old ABS sensor on the new hub and assemble the hub in the reverse order of dismantling.
Repeat the procedure with the second hub and wheel bearing.
When tightening the hub nut, it is necessary to do the same as when dismantling, that is, hang the wheel and lower the jack. This is necessary because the nut must be fastened with the same force of 280 Nm.
When repairing a wheel bearing and a hub, there is no need to unscrew the ball. You can simply knock out the CV joint and unscrew the steering wheel all the way, then you can easily crawl under all the bolts.
When installing a new hub, it is necessary to lubricate the hub itself and the seat with graphite grease. The sensor does not need to be turned off from the shoe. The procedure for replacing one wheel bearing together with the hub (optional) takes up to 6 hours. It all depends on the skill and experience of repairing the chassis of the car.
Replacing the rear hub bearings is carried out according to the same principle and method as replacing the front ones. The symptoms of worn bearings are absolutely identical - hum when driving at speeds over 60 km. At one o'clock. As a rule, the second symptom is wheel play when it is loose.
The procedure for replacing one bearing takes up to 4 hours, depending on the availability of the necessary tools and experience in repairing the chassis of the car. From the tools you need everything the same as when replacing the front wheel bearings.
Dismantle the wheel by first lifting the rear of the car with a jack.
Remove the dust cap.
Now you need to unscrew the nut, which is cottered. Pull out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut. Most bearings wear out quickly if this nut is not properly secured.
Now you need to wipe off dirt and dust from the DAC.
Remove the inner bearings from the hub. Wipe off dirty grease from seats.
Remove the oil seal from the inside of the hub and knock out the outer race of the old bearings. The use of hammers is recommended for this procedure.
Now it is necessary to press into the hub, while it is disassembled, the inner races from the already new bearings. This will significantly extend the life of the new bearings.
Now it is necessary to clog the area between the bearings and the bearings themselves with grease. Install the inner part of the bearing into the seat.
Install a new oil seal.
Put on the inner surface of the outer bearing and install it all on the DAC.
Install the washer that comes with the groove.
Tighten the nut with the required torque and put the wheel back on.
Pin and tighten the wheel.
Repeat the procedure for replacing the wheel bearing with the second wheel.
The procedure for replacing wheel bearings is recommended to be done with a partner. Also, after replacing the wheel bearing, it is necessary to check the brake fluid level, because the entire brake system was removed at the time of repair and replacement of bearings. There is no need to visit service centers, the procedure for replacing bearings, both front and rear, can be performed in a garage, a matter of time and patience.
Watch an interesting video on this topic
he kicked his boot and flew away carefully read the posts above about the walking rack is a new anecdote
[quote = ”Vyacheslav at 31 ″] So, before you start replacing, you need to prepare: -arms -new hub (set)
Tell me the exact information about the catalog number of the hub .. (1603210, 1603211 or 1603254. What code did you choose exactly ?.
Don't you have an ABC?
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Opel Astra wheel bearing replacement the operation is not complicated. The bearing itself is mostly sold complete with a hub. To remove and install it, you will have to unscrew only three bolts. If you can rip off the rusted bolts from their places, then you do not need to remove the steering knuckle!.
If the bolts do not give in, then you will have to remove the entire steering knuckle assembly with the hub. This is a more time-consuming process, but in this case you can be clearly sure that you screwed the three bolts of the hub fastening properly. Replacing the front bearings in the Opel Astra naturally it is better to carry out in pairs, on both wheels.
In this article we will consider the option with the removal of the steering knuckle. But in dealerships and good services they make everything easier, without removing the steering knuckle, although they have a tool that you may not have. Replacing the wheel bearing Opel Astra will require an asterisk head. In addition to the hub itself, you will need new bolts and a CV joint nut.
In order to unscrew the SHRUS nut, you need a head for 32.
In order to unscrew the brake caliper, you must unscrew the two bolts. We remove the caliper, the main thing is that it does not hang on the brake hose, it is best to hang it by screwing it with wire. In order to unscrew the brake disc you will need a TORX T-30 "sprocket" wrench. Next, we unscrew the three mounting bolts of the hub, which are screwed in from the inside and this is the whole difficulty. You will need a TORX 18 wrench for the hub bolts.
If everything worked out, then you can put a new hub and assemble everything in the reverse order.
But if it is not possible to unscrew the hub bolts without removing the fist, you will have to remove the Opel Astra steering fist. To do this, you need to do the following operations.
Pulling off the hub nut from its place
Removing the wheel
We unscrew the 2 nuts securing the rack to the steering knuckle with a key of 18
We unscrew the 2 bolts securing the caliper to the fist with a key of 18
Pull the caliper off the brake disc and place it on the stand
Finally, we unscrew the nut securing the CV joint to the hub
Using the TORX T-30 wrench, unscrew the brake disc fixing bolt
Unscrew the nut for fastening the steering tip with a 19 key
We unscrew the nut securing the ball joint pin to the fist
We take out the steering tip
Disconnect the ABS sensor wiring
Remove the steering knuckle assembly
Unscrew the 3 bolts attaching the hub with the TORX 18 head to the fist
We fasten the new Opel Astra hub to the steering knuckle and assemble everything in the reverse order.
Hub bearings wear out rather quickly, because the quality of roads in Russia is far from the best quality. The first symptom of a worn bearing is a characteristic hum, which is more clearly audible at speeds over 60 km. At one o'clock. In this case, it is recommended to replace the bearings as quickly as possible.
It is better to change bearings in pairs, since if the first one buzzes, then the second one will soon also start, because the chassis wears out approximately evenly.
On the Opel Astra, the original wheel bearings are supplied immediately with a hub and an ABS sensor.
For the procedure for replacing the front wheel bearings, you will need:
Jack.
Observation pit
E type socket set (reverse sprocket).
Vorotok.
Lever extension.
Hammers.
WD-40.
Raise the vehicle from the required side with a jack.
Dismantle the wheel.
Open the brake pads.
Remove the hub nut protective cap.
Remove the hub nut. This is not so easy, since it is fixed according to the standard with a force of 280 N.m. Even putting the car in gear, the axle shaft will still scroll. To successfully unscrew the hub nut, do the following:
Remove the center plug from the disc and hang the wheel on two bolts.
Lower the vehicle from the jack.
Now you can apply all your weight and unscrew the nut.
Remove the ABS sensor mounting connector, which is located on the shock absorber strut.
Unscrew the brake caliper completely. But you don't need to completely disassemble it.
Remove the brake disc from the vehicle hub. If the disc changes, then you can simply knock it out with a hammer. If not, you need to use WD-40 and knock down the brake disc with light tapping. If you have a brake disc remover, you can remove it even faster.
Now it is recommended to pull the axle shaft out of the hub and free up space for work, that is, for dismantling the hub bolts.
To unscrew the axle shaft from the hub, it is necessary to unscrew the lower ball arm from the steering knuckle. It is necessary to twist with two knobs, since this is a "bolt with a nut".
Carefully remove the axle shaft after removing the ball shaft. The axle shaft is splined, care must be taken. The main thing is not to rip out the axle shaft from the gearbox, as you can immediately lose the transmission oil.
Now you can see the three bolts securing the hub to the steering knuckle.
It is necessary to unscrew them and remember at what angle the ABS sensor wire comes out. This angle must be remembered for further installation, so that the sensor wire was installed correctly. Otherwise, there won't be enough length. The most important thing to remember is that the wire comes out from the side of the brake caliper.
Now you need to remove the hub. Here you need to be even more careful, since there is no place to hit the hub, you cannot get close from the inside, because there is an ABS sensor. Plus, a mud guard is installed in the hub. In general, at this point it is necessary to carefully, step by step, remove the hub.
After removing the hub, the ABS sensor will remain in the steering knuckle. It must be carefully removed.
Carefully knock the ABS sensor off the new hub.
Install the old ABS sensor on the new hub and assemble the hub in the reverse order of dismantling.
Repeat the procedure with the second hub and wheel bearing.
When tightening the hub nut, it is necessary to do the same as when dismantling, that is, hang the wheel and lower the jack. This is necessary because the nut must be fastened with the same force of 280 Nm.
When repairing a wheel bearing and a hub, there is no need to unscrew the ball. You can simply knock out the CV joint and unscrew the steering wheel all the way, then you can easily crawl under all the bolts.
When installing a new hub, it is necessary to lubricate the hub itself and the seat with graphite grease. The sensor does not need to be turned off from the shoe. The procedure for replacing one wheel bearing together with the hub (optional) takes up to 6 hours. It all depends on the skill and experience of repairing the chassis of the car.
Replacing the rear hub bearings is carried out according to the same principle and method as replacing the front ones. The symptoms of worn bearings are absolutely identical - hum when driving at speeds over 60 km. At one o'clock. As a rule, the second symptom is wheel play when it is loose.
The procedure for replacing one bearing takes up to 4 hours, depending on the availability of the necessary tools and experience in repairing the chassis of the car. From the tools you need everything the same as when replacing the front wheel bearings.
Dismantle the wheel by first lifting the rear of the car with a jack.
Remove the dust cap.
Now you need to unscrew the nut, which is cottered. Pull out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut. Most bearings wear out quickly if this nut is not properly secured.
Now you need to wipe off dirt and dust from the DAC.
Remove the inner bearings from the hub. Wipe off dirty grease from seats.
Remove the oil seal from the inside of the hub and knock out the outer race of the old bearings. The use of hammers is recommended for this procedure.
Now it is necessary to press into the hub, while it is disassembled, the inner races from the already new bearings. This will significantly extend the life of the new bearings.
Now it is necessary to clog the area between the bearings and the bearings themselves with grease. Install the inner part of the bearing into the seat.
Install a new oil seal.
Put on the inner surface of the outer bearing and install it all on the DAC.
Install the washer that comes with the groove.
Tighten the nut with the required torque and put the wheel back on.
Pin and tighten the wheel.
Repeat the procedure for replacing the wheel bearing with the second wheel.
The procedure for replacing wheel bearings is recommended to be done with a partner. Also, after replacing the wheel bearing, it is necessary to check the brake fluid level, because the entire brake system was removed at the time of repair and replacement of bearings. There is no need to visit service centers, the procedure for replacing bearings, both front and rear, can be performed in a garage, a matter of time and patience.
Watch an interesting video on this topic
The chassis of any car requires careful attention to itself. Traffic safety largely depends on the state of the parts of this system. The most heavily loaded part of the undercarriage is the wheel bearing. In the article, we will consider the process of replacing the wheel bearing of the Opel Astra H.
In our network of car services, we repair the running gear of the Opel Astra H of any complexity. We carry out the following works:
detailed diagnostics of all units and parts of the undercarriage with the subsequent preparation of a defective statement;
replacement of individual elements of the chassis (wheel, wheel bearing, steering knuckle and suspension parts);
camber and toe angle adjustment;
other work.
One of the most common undercarriage failures is wheel bearing failure. In the material of the article, we will consider the causes and symptoms of malfunctions of this unit, as well as the replacement process.
The main reason for wheel bearing failure is natural wear. However, in addition to this, there are a number of additional factors that can accelerate the destruction process. Consider these disruptive factors.
Ingress of moisture and abrasive particles into the inner cavity of the bearing.This leads to leaching of the grease and accelerated destruction of clips and balls. Also, moisture that has penetrated into the cavity of the wheel bearing gradually leads to the formation of foci of corrosion. This process is especially progressing with already partially washed out lubrication, when the car has been standing in one place for a long time.
High loads. Despite the impressive safety factor, the wheel bearing fails at an accelerated rate under the influence of high loads. For example, the systematic movement of a car at high speed with a transported mass close to the maximum allowable, significantly increases the rate of bearing wear. Driving on bumps with sharp drops also negatively affects. Shock loads are especially detrimental to a bearing that already has some wear.
Overheating of the hub unit. This factor is especially relevant in the summer when the vehicle is operated with frequent braking. The temperature from the brake disc is transmitted to the steering knuckle and hub. In this case, the red-hot grease partially loses its properties. Along with the thermal expansion of the metal, this leads to accelerated wear.
The wheel bearing, as mentioned earlier, has a fairly large margin of safety. Its resource can reach 100 thousand kilometers. And if the operating conditions are favorable, then significantly exceed this mileage.
There are several signs of a wheel bearing failure. Let's consider them.
The appearance of a characteristic hum or whistle from one of the wheels. This sound can change tonality, increase or decrease, and even disappear altogether under certain modes of movement.
Light vibration transmitted to the steering wheel in time with the rotation of the wheels. A similar symptom indicates a rather strong wear, when significant development has already appeared in the clips and balls.
The characteristic crunch of the rolled balls. You can hear it when driving at low speed in a quiet environment with an open window.
If you find these signs, you should contact the service station as soon as possible to find out the exact reasons.
The technology for replacing the front and rear wheel bearings is slightly different. The replacement procedure on the front axle is more labor intensive due to the wheel steering mechanism.
An important feature of both the front and rear wheel bearings of the Opel Astra H is their inseparability from the hub. Therefore, during the repair process, the hub is replaced along with the bearing.
When replacing the front hub, some suspension and steering components are checked in parallel. The following steps are taken:
the condition of the ball bearings and steering tips is inspected;
the residual life of brake pads and discs is assessed;
the caliper and brake lines are checked for leaks.
These assemblies are not checked separately from the hub replacement. Inspection is carried out in the process of dismantling the steering knuckle. Therefore, the additional cost of work will not be included in the calculation.
When replacing the rear hub, the brake pads, discs, calipers and lines are inspected.
If any malfunctions are found, this is reported to the client. Further, by agreement with the customer, additional repairs are made.
Why are more and more drivers trusting us with their cars?
We have been working in the market of car repair services for quite some time. Over the years of practice, by trial and error, the basic principles of work have been derived.
Today we offer our clients the following level of service:
Application in work of professional equipment and specialized equipment. We do not work with handicraft methods. We have special pullers, hydraulic press, various pneumatic equipment in stock.
The work is carried out by qualified auto mechanics with extensive experience.We do not trust such responsible work as wheel hub replacement to locksmiths with insufficient experience in this area.
Transparent and fair pricing. Before starting work, we draw up a calculation in which we describe in detail all the articles of waste. The client can easily trace what he pays money for. In addition, we guarantee that without agreement with the customer, the volume of work (respectively, and the final cost) will not be increased.
Quality assurance. After replacing the hub, it is imperative that we carefully check the quality of the work performed. Since the wheel hub is a very important unit. Only after that we issue a warranty card and give the car to the car owner.
If you are interested in replacing the Opel Astra H wheel bearing with high quality, please contact our car service. We will quickly and professionally perform the replacement in accordance with the technology recommended by the manufacturer.
The front hub is a non-separable unit. Therefore, if a hub bearing or wheel speed sensor fails, the hub is replaced as an assembly.
Notes. It is more convenient to replace the front hub with the steering knuckle removed from the car. If the bearing of one of the hubs fails, we recommend replacing both front wheel hubs at the same time.
You need a TORX E18 socket.
2. Clamp the steering knuckle in a vice, unscrew the three bolts securing the hub ...
3 .... and remove the hub together with the dust shield.
4. Remove the dust shield from the hub. 5. Install a new hub in the steering knuckle together with a mudguard and tighten the bolts of its fastening to the torque specified in Appendix 1. 6. Install the steering knuckle and all removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 7. Check and, if necessary, adjust the wheel alignment angles. Take advantage of the services of workshops with special equipment.
To replace the rear hub of the Opel Astra car, you will need: a key "16", socket TORX E11.
In this subsection, the replacement is described using the example of the left rear hub, the right hub is replaced in the same way.
1. Brake the car with the parking brake and install chocks (“shoes”) under the wheels. Loosen the wheel bolts on the side of the hub being removed. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a jack and place it on a support. Remove the wheel and lower the parking brake lever all the way down (the vehicle is unbraked).
2. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake caliper (see Replacing the rear parking brake cables).
3. Disconnect the caliper from the bracket (see Replacing the rear wheel brake caliper assembly with the shoe guide) and take it to the side without disconnecting the brake hose.
4. Tie the caliper, for example, with a wire to the spring of the rear suspension, without pulling or twisting the brake hose.
6. Press in the latch on the wheel speed sensor harness connector.
7.. and disconnect the pay-off block.
8. Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose harness holder retaining bolt and disconnect the retainer from the caliper retaining bracket.
9. Remove the four nuts securing the hub to the rear axle beam knuckle.
10. . and remove the hub along with the brake shield and caliper mounting bracket.
11. Remove the caliper mounting bracket from the studs of the hub pivot.
The rear hub in the Opel Astra is non-separable. If its bearing fails, the hub is replaced as an assembly.
Video (click to play).
13. Install all removed parts in the reverse order of removal.