In detail: DIY ship clock repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Obviously, they planted the second hand all the way and it brakes on the minute wheel.
I do not agree with the highest quality watches. The spring was clearly too rigid, after cleaning the main problem is to slow down the stroke, so that the balance does not beat off! An eternal theme in them.
If it's not a secret, how do you slow down the course?
Ha ha! The Maltese cross will not help, even if you create it with a half turn of the spring. the verification is carried out at the complete plant. This is enough to beat off the move, and moving pallets is generally a joke)))
You guys will do the cleaning and try your methods yourself)
Have you noticed that the knock is only in the model with the Maltese cross?
at the dawn of my practice, stones from a double roller flew out, half a turn is too much, the initial minimum load is 10-15 degrees maximum. Aim sorry, I don’t undertake to teach, don’t chop off the advice of experienced masters, try it in practice before rejecting it, if the attempt is not successful, refer to the forum, they will help you figure out the problem, pouring oil is somehow not technologically advanced. In the old days, an iron was hung on the weight of walkers (accelerating stroke))), the method is opposite to yours, proven effective, but you must admit it is also not technological.
1 Rule of equipment repair - "While it is working normally - do not go!" :)
Yes, you can't see anything, maybe the spring just jumped off. Open the drum and see.
of course already opened 🙂 broken near the center, not far, just a few cm ..
moreover, from two side moves, 66 and 73, he collected one, taking a balance with a spring from 66. and bet at 73 ..
works 🙂
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Video (click to play). |
Where to begin. Some notes from Bogdan J.
This is purely the experience of an amateur who has never been a professional watchmaker. Accordingly, all this is suitable for the amateur. A professional is dear to the school. They will teach everything there.
Start with Pinkin. Or from Troyanovsky. In general, there are books on the topic of clock repair. Download and print. Okay, there is no Internet - everyone will do it for you in any Internet cafe. You must have a book. It can get expensive but well worth it. This book is a guide for the layperson who should be able to understand at least something from this book. Almost our case. I have never done anything like that - and here it was.
Let's make some additions with the amendment for today for those who are pinned.
Screwdrivers. Start simple.
Chinese. I use it. I sharpen it. As for Chinese screwdrivers - look where on the streets watch batteries are changed and batteries and watch straps are sold. Or in the most ordinary households. A set of screwdrivers for small jobs.
You take a screwdriver. If it turns out to be too soft and bends when trying to unscrew something, put a candle next to the screwdriver. You heat the blade of a screwdriver and quickly into wax. This is hardening. Then you take a small stone and sharpen it along Pinkin.
More cool - in a machine on a diamond disc. But it will be later. When the tool and machines appear. Stones are well suited for finishing.
Tweezers (for starters - medical eye tweezers will do).
An alternative is to get acquainted with a radio bazaar (if Moscow - it seems Gorbushka - where they sell radio components, radio stations and computer gadgets) - see the boxes where the instrument is sold. You will be greatly surprised by the abundance. Good tools are surprisingly expensive. Tweezers shapes - see Pinkin. I'm not talking about big watch shops. They would rather be beaten than sold at a normal price. They do not want to breed competitors. And if they do, the prices are simply unrealistic. Doesn't fit into any gate.
There is also a radio bazaar - Galosha gasoline.Wash. It is much drier than kerosene and white spirit.
You take sticks (like Chinese) - finger length - to taste. You stick fishing steel 3-4 cm long into the end - it can be thicker and thinner. 0.1 - 0.15 mm. This is for the fishermen. One meter is enough for 10 years of work.
The very tip with one blow of a hammer (through a punch or a hard piece of iron) is splashed on a hard anvil. You get a little spatula. You make 3-4 of these with different blade sizes and different steel diameters. This will replace butter dosing. As anvils, I use either a roller made of a large bearing or carbide plates for a lathe - your way to the flea market or to friends in the workshop.
In approximately the same way - they will come in handy for a start - sticks with ordinary sewing needles - while the hands are frightened and there are no good tweezers - to expose the details (gears in stones, screws, etc.) is an auxiliary tool.
Surgical clamps. Different. Very handy as small and strong pliers. They are usually bought on occasion at a flea market.
Dental spatulas. It is convenient to use in all cases as an auxiliary tool.
Enema. Rubber. From the pharmacy. Big. Blow off dust. The tip must be rubber.
Butter. Or in the workshop (if they don't beat you, although they usually look like rams and pretend that they don't understand what you are talking about at all and are trying to get you off as quickly as possible). Or maybe at a radio store - in the same place where solder and acid are sold. Oil MN-30, MN-45 or watch oil. Although it is not aerobatics, it will go for a start.
It is better to keep it in a dark heavy box - and the sun will not burn and there is less chance that it will turn over.
To open the cases - a large, broken medical tweezers. It is clear that this is not kosher - but it is also possible. Likewise - an old caliper. You just need to correct the edges of the jaws - so that they are more rectangular.
Scalpel - opening of enclosures.
Binocular loupe. It is relatively inexpensive, but without it it is better not even to start. Or photographic goods (classic - where telescopes and binoculars are sold) or a radio bazaar. There are different strengths. If you have money, take two. One is 1.5 times, one is the strongest one sold - it seems up to 2.5 times. They can be sold with an elastic band - you will have to redo them to fit a hard bezel. You can go and talk to the optics workshop - glasses. Maybe they will offer something like pince-nez. Regarding ordinary magnifiers - to my taste - I rarely use them. It turned out to be extremely useful for cutting off the baby's nails - they were not visible at all for the first six months, but it was necessary to cut them off.
Binocular - microscope. Yes. Old. Look. The oldest is MBS-1. It is with a straight image - not upside down - which is what we see. It should cost within $ 50. A very useful thing. In every way. Up to the point that you rip the scrap out of your finger. But this is on occasion and over time. MBS-10 or OGMZ is steeper - the distance from the object to the eyepiece is greater, it is clear that it is more expensive. But all the same, an ordinary screwdriver does not fit under the MBS-10 - it must be shortened. Although on the Site of the Lytkarinsky plant - the manufacturer of MBS-10, there is a link that they sell lenses for MBS-10 with a distance to the object - about 19 cm.This can be a good solution if we got MBS-10. Everything between MBS-1 and MBS-9 is the same. Over time, the lens can be altered by yourself. You take what is cheaper. It's closer to the flea market. The only thing is that it is desirable that there is an illuminator (transformer + light bulb).
All that is further from the instrument - only after evisceration for 4-5 hours.
Where to get a watch - make yourself a fashion to be at a flea market - everything floats there. Often they simply sell mechanisms there. For instance:
When you warm up a little - after buying a binocular microscope - there is also a radio bazaar, shops with tools - they usually sell ultrasonic cleaners. But here is also the question - is it necessary. 50 years before that they did not use them - they took a bath and washed the parts with a brush in gasoline. You can do it, but the weight is not bad.Should cost in the range of $ 50-80. Denatured alcohol and Galosha gasoline were poured into an ultrasound of 30 watts. Working. Does not flash. Washes like a beast, but all the same, sometimes you have to rip something off with a toothpick. At the bazaar, they say that 30-watt sinks - indestructible - work without problems and there is no return due to marriage. If the model is the same as in the figure - what should be done after purchase - disassemble completely (there may be moisture inside, one of the indicators is stylish clicks when working against a background of uniform sound), squeeze the metal tank out of the case and put it back on the Auto Sealant (white , ours, not on transparent silicone). Plumbing does not work - it is highly corrosive. One of the indicators of plumbing is a strong vinegar smell.
Yes, I forgot, a flea market - look for Petri dishes - or maybe in a pharmacy or in a laboratory at a hospital. But you are not their client - there is an expensive flea market - this is the very thing. These are flat round glass or plastic low trays - for details. They are cheap. Take 5 pieces for the current dismantling works. I like glass more - they are heavier, fidget less on the table.
Then, for convenience, in the offices that make business cards, you can sometimes roll up and buy boxes for business cards. Wholesale will cost within $ 0.30 pcs. Transparent ones are also a very convenient thing - but this is for longer storage.
Silica gel. Small bags that are put into new fashionable shoes, equipment, computer components. Absorbs water. It must be dried either in the microwave or at a good temperature - in an electric oven. Gas does not pass - when the gas burns, water is released. After drying, the bag is placed in a box in which small tools and spare parts are stored for a long time so that they do not rust.
Radio bazaar. Snap-on pouches - they sell in the hundreds. Size 4 X 6 cm. Place watches and small items. They are usually packed with small pieces that are sold in the bazaar.
To begin with, the wristwatch can be laid down on the grinder mesh during disassembly. Then you yourself will determine what you need and how it is more convenient for you. The stand can be machined from brass. Should be heavy enough.
Take a coil from any old starter from electricians - try asking for 380 V. If not, by 220 V. You attach the wires - the demagnetizer is ready. Turn on only for a short time - it gets warm.
About a new instrument. It is not always worth the money. Think how to get out with what you have. It is needed if you make a living with this and the customer pays for everything. If this is a hobby, then not first of all. Calculate the costs like this: I quit smoking (and drinking) and all the savings are on the tool. In this case, it is really a hobby and a useful pastime.
Now the steepness has gone. Machine.
Option 2. High-speed car. 10,000 revolutions. We sharpen with a diamond file. It may well be. There are eagles who did something in this way. But as for me - this is not very correct. If sharpen then sharpen.
Considering the above - if you do not sharpen the axes how to fry pies - then it would be more expedient for a layman-watchmaker to take a small-sized precision universal machine. I would say that 20% of the work is axle turning (or even less), 80% is turning of screws and body parts, various secondary milling work.
Examples I would name the following:
Collet chuck, native collets. On top is a milling corner. A part of the caliper is attached to it and we get a "milling cutter".
- new - Proxxon PD-230 / E, including a milling attachment or FF-230 router. Search on There they even have a price list in the power tool section - that is, they really do it.
Regarding the old MD-65. Axes 0.1 sharpens. Doesn't hit. Any additional clarifications are superfluous.
Now for the next topic. Okay. We got a machine. Well kva. We have a type of computer in the form of a processor, monitor and keyboard. But all this locomotive also needs software. Windows-2000 or Windows-XP and for tough peppers Linux will do.So, the fun begins. Software often costs more than hardware. It's the same story with machine tools. We need fixtures and additional tools. I think that an approximate set of additional accessories for the machine will cost no less than the machine costs. We are now talking about turning + milling. I ended up with MD-65 with a milling plate-angle - a milling cutter is clamped in the chuck of the machine, and the support is turned over a la milling table, only vertical + milling vise. The arrows on it are milled. Cut the slots in the screws too.
- incisors - at least a hundred. Fits well in old wooden school boxes.
For precise sharpened incisors, old boxes from under grandmother's silver spoons go very well - incisors are more expensive than spoons, they will not break.
- collets and collet chuck. I have 2 sets - one is native to MD-65 (3-13 mm), the second set is Lorsch (hour, 0-6 mm).
This is in the machine, Lorsch in the adapter.
- indicators. 0.01 and 0.001. It is clear that various attachments are needed for them. Often you have to do the fasteners yourself.
- center detectors - 0.01. Without it, there is simply nothing to do on the machine.
- binocular microscope. Without words. We have already talked about this above.
- 4-jaw chuck. With split jaw release.
- sharpener - sharpen the cutters roughly
- diamond wheels - sharpen cutters precisely
- rotary vise (horizontal rotary system) - drill holes in precisely specified places. Screw holes in the rim of the transparent case back. It is hand drilled. It can be seen that the screws are jumping.
- dividing head. Or with discs or vernier. Cutting gears. Or at least make a square.
- I'm not talking about cutters. And end and for gears. The thickness of the disc cutters - from 0.1-0.15 - is the thickness of the "Neva" blade.
- the measuring tool is for rough work
- and for precise ones - only optics
- then you need to look at what is needed already for the work being performed. You will have to do a lot yourself. To invent a lot. Very often, for the manufacture of one part, it takes more time to make a clamp in order to clamp this part into the machine.
Foil trimming - making a "disk" arrow. Materials at hand.
Now the conversation is where and how to organize all this. It should be dry. Dust free. Not on the head of the family - the family should know that it is yours - and no matter what you do there - they have no entrance there. And there is nothing to howl about the noise from the workshop. Their comments are inappropriate (oh, it's dirty, oh, it stinks with gasoline).
One type I saw a German machine - the type of our school. More precisely, only pre-war. He mounted it under the kitchen table. In the center of the table is a shelf with a machine on it. The top board of the table rises - like in old school desks. He lowered the board, put the tablecloth in place and crumble the onion with the sausage. All the same, there will be no big turning works at home - everything is some kind of small piece.
If we are talking about a large workshop or a more serious occupation in the restoration business for the soul, then in addition to the small machine, you need to look towards a larger machine - a school one (I don’t want to name the type - there are many different ones), a horizontal milling NGF-110 and a muffle furnace - this is for more rough work and the manufacture of devices. It is clear that all this also needs a trailer of devices and tools. Photo of the basement in the country.
If you can order or buy somewhere, look towards the rollers. They can be quite expensive. Sometimes they help out a lot. Especially in the manufacture of new parts, arrows and shims for lathe cutters.
As a conclusion, let's put it this way - this process is endless. In one sensible book on choosing a watch lathe, there was a good idea, completely applicable in our case - we are all mortal. All these tools are of interest only to us. Personally. There is no need to expect that someone after us will continue with fire in their eyes what we have begun. The whole instrument must be bought on the basis that after us, our grateful descendants die of all this rubbish and faster.They can also be thrown into the trash. They need a place for a geranium! We need to make sure that they can get more for it, slowly and confidently to all these numerous relatives and posterity, it is necessary to explain that all this is expensive and on this in distant times it will be possible to earn something. And accordingly, if you already buy, then buy a liquid instrument, which will have a price even in 50 years. This is on the one hand. On the other hand, we are all working now. We earn something. This is exactly the right time to prepare for yourself a range of activities for a time when our earnings will decrease, that is, retirement. Good luck.
Good day to all!
I would like to tell you about our Chistopol Watch Factory, and in particular about the company that produces Ship watches 5-ChM. This watch is supplied to both general purpose ships and military,so they've already left for you.
Mechanical watch on 13 stones with an anchor stroke. Perhaps for 2016, our company is the only one in the CIS engaged in the production of mechanical ship watches (not to be confused with ship watches).
Yes, you are not mistaken to wind the spring for only 8 days and it must be wound manually. However, all the efforts are paid off by the accuracy of the stroke.
Photo of how the watch is wound:
The manufacturing technology of ship watches was developed in the distant 1970s and we try to adhere to it, because our designers will not think of anything better anyway ..
The post was created so that people know that not everything is neglected in terms of watchmaking in our country. At the ChChZ site, high-quality mechanical clocks are still produced, be it: ship, wrist, mantel, etc.
If it is interesting, I can lay out the mechanism itself and the manufacturing process. Thank you for your attention!
Knowing the time is a daily necessity. Plans, schedules, meetings depend on him. But the watch has another purpose, so appreciated by those who prefer a stylish setting, especially if the surrounding atmosphere is imbued with a thirst for adventure and sea air. It is not necessary to constantly sail on a ship; you can create a similar entourage at home.
And the ship's clock plays an important role in this. Their form, calculation system and uniqueness bring into the room (cabin, wheelhouse, room, hall) the very zest that can become a work of art. But, like any type of equipment, they eventually deteriorate. The climate, quality, durability, and care are also at play here.
And then the repair of the ship clock or the repair of the mantel clock is required. Their mechanism is complex and delicate, and if you do not understand the intricacies, after that there will be only a bunch of spare parts and a misunderstanding of how this could happen and what to do with it now. It is better to use the services of professional craftsmen. So it is safer to save both finances and time, and return such a valuable item to its original appearance. And at the same time, a preventive examination will be carried out to avoid further trouble.
After that, you don't have to worry that new intervention will be required, especially if it is not a short journey to the mainland. In the conditions of the mainland, everything will go a little easier, but reliability and durability are also guaranteed. We work with both mechanical, quartz and electronic watches.
Manufacturers also vary. Whether it is Russia, Asia, Switzerland or other countries, an individual approach will be found for each type of ship clock. Comprehensive repair or just dust removal, replacement of a part of the mechanism is a small list of services provided by the craftsmen. Corrected in time, the watch will delight its owner for a long time.
Repair of ship watches pays special attention to the strength of the case and parts. After all, it is one thing if the gift is on the wall in the room, and completely different when it comes to a means of navigation (ship, yacht, etc.). Here, heaving, and storms, and even the danger of excess moisture, destructively acting on the devices, are possible.That is why only reliable parts, high-quality material and proven companies and suppliers are used.
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This is a ship's clock, marine performance. Eight-day plant. On steamers, they usually write in pencil on the dial: "Monday", and they start on Mondays at 08.00. Most likely, you have shortened the spring in your watch.
It is necessary to memorize the number of half-turns of the winding key (it seems to be six), and underwind them by half a turn in order to save the spring. In the upper part of the dial, they have a travel regulator (the frequency of oscillations of the pendulum). On ships, they were handed over for inspection annually (without a certificate they were not released into the sea!) ..
The clock is good. There were even better, 50s - 60s years of birth, in pressed brass (wall thickness of half a millimeter) nickel-plated cases.
They also painted 2 red sectors on the dial: a minute of silence at emergency frequencies. For radio operators - from 15th to 16th and from 45th to 46th minutes, and navigators from 00th to 01st and from 30th to 31st.
Post has been edited Sharpened: 06 December 2011 - 16:58
I agree with Larisa, a very sweet, naive and pleasant novel. Lovers of hot bed scenes, with all that it implies
. >>>>>
Great, sensual romance. It penetrated right up to tears in moments.
>>>>>
Chapter 1. Repair of mechanical watches
Since quite often the reason for stopping a watch is the movement of dirt, drying out of oil, penetration of moisture into the watch case, etc., sometimes it is enough to simply disassemble the watch, while washing or lubricating its mechanism. Before disassembling the watch, study the attached diagram (fig. 1).
Rice. one. Kinematic and schematic diagram of the watch mechanism:
5 and 6 — overhead and impulse galoshes;
8 - restrictive pins;
11 and 12 — entry and exit flights;
15 and 16 - pins of the adjusting thermometer;
19 - tribe of the escape wheel;
21 - tribe of the second wheel;
24 - intermediate wheel tribe;
26 - tribe of the central wheel;
39 - spring of the transfer lever (latch);
41 - spring of the winding lever;
42 and 43 - transfer wheels;
45 - tribe of the bill wheel;
49 - minute hand tribe (minute)
Disassembly is carried out in the following sequence:
- Remove the back cover of the case (the most convenient way is to pick it up with a knife; some covers can be unscrewed). As a rule, faults such as a broken spring, broken or bent wheels, loose screws are visible immediately.
- If at a cursory inspection everything looks whole, you should remove the mechanism from the case. To do this, you first need to lower the mainspring; This is done in the following way: the crown is pulled back to the extreme position (the moment of the winding) and is held by tweezers, while the crown at this time gently rotates with the fingers. Then the winding shaft is removed. To do this, it is necessary to set it to the position of transferring the arrows and loosen the screw of the transfer lever. Then the mechanism is removed from the case and the winding shaft is put back in place. In some models, the watch case is designed in such a way that the mechanism can be pulled out without removing the winding shaft.
- Check the rotation of the central wheel with tweezers (whether it moves freely and does not come into contact with surrounding parts). Also check the drum, spiral, balance for contact.
- Remove arrows, release and remove dial.
First remove the second hand, then the minute hand (most conveniently with tweezers). Then remove the dial with the hour wheel and hour hand. Check the condition of its legs. Inspect the switch mechanism, check the bill and clock wheels, check the adhesion of the switch mechanism wheels (for this, turning them in the forward and reverse directions). Check if the shifting and winding levers are correctly locked.
- Remove the balance bridge with the balance assembly from the plate. Unscrew the screw of the spiral column by 1.5-2 turns, separate the balance assembly from the bridge. Having removed the balance from the mechanism, you must not let it hang at the end of the spiral.
- Remove the anchor bridge and the anchor itself (the mainspring must be fully deflated).
- Remove the central, intermediate, second and escapement wheels. Check their position on the axle and the adhesion between each wheel and the corresponding gear, inspect the teeth.
- Remove the drum from the platinum, open it and check the condition of the mainspring.
You can wash the parts of the clockwork in gasoline (preferably in a transparent glass container). The petrol level should not exceed 2 cm.
Larger parts, such as platinum and bridges, are washed first, then wheels and other small parts. Parts are cleaned with a brush, heavily soiled grooves are cleaned with a sharpened stick.
Ship clock Is one of the most reliable types of chronometers. Their service life is long enough, but, as you know, nothing is eternal, and they can also fail. In such situations, prompt and qualified intervention by an experienced specialist is required.
For many years, the specialists of our service center have been providing high-quality services for the repair of ship watches in Moscow. The use of modern equipment, original spare parts and accessories, the rich experience of our specialists - these are the factors that ensure the exceptionally high quality and efficiency of the services provided.
Our specialists carry out not only repairs, but also preventive work, preventing the occurrence of troubles with the ship's clock. If a breakdown does happen, our technicians will fix it as soon as possible. At the same time, the speed of the work performed will not affect their quality in any way.
• Rich experience and high professionalism of our specialists;
• Adequate quality of the services provided, regardless of the level of complexity of the breakdown;
• Loyalty to customers, reflected in low prices for the services of the service center.
• Replacement of glass in the ship's clock;
• Restoration of the chronometer mechanism;
• Restoration of the hull. If necessary, it can be replaced;
• Restoration of the winding mechanism.
The specialists of our organization carry out repair and maintenance of any ship's clock, regardless of the complexity of the breakdown. All the necessary spare parts and equipment are constantly at the disposal of our specialists, which is why all work is carried out as soon as possible.
A conscientious attitude to our work allows us to provide a guarantee for the services provided and spare parts installed during the repair. High-quality repair of ship watches in Moscow is carried out by Servic Time
Here you can undergo diagnostics of your product and receive competent and high-quality service. Modern technology and professionalism enable us to work with any watch and movement at the highest level.
You can contact us with any problem and get real practical help!
Unfortunately, on modern dials, where mainly electroplated or lacquer coatings are used, replacing the foot is practically impossible, since even the slightest heating of the dial will cause indelible stains on its surface.
A dirty dial must be cleaned.
It is better to clean the enamel dial with gasoline. In the event that it is cracked or too dirty, it must be washed. To do this, rub the dial with soap and then rinse it with warm water. To remove dirt from cracks, you need to wipe the dial with a cut of a raw potato. After rinsing, the dial is dried by wrapping it in tissue paper.
Printed dials as well as dials with silver-plated brim do not tolerate cleaning well. Gasoline and alcohol cannot be used to clean them at all.
If it is impossible to replace the dial, and the signs on it have worn off, you can write them with black paint or ink. It is better to use a wooden stick for writing.
If the signs (strokes and numbers) on the dial are not painted, but glued, then it is better to polish them and cover them with a colorless varnish.
As for the watch hands, first of all, of course, they must be of a certain length and firmly held on the axes. The hands must not touch one another or touch the dial or glass. If you change hands, it is better that they also match the external design of the watch in shape and color.
It is better to set the second hand along the course of the watch, which makes it possible to control the contact of the hand with the dial or platinum.
If the second hand is located in the center of the dial, then it has a curved end and is installed with gaps relative to the minute hand and the glass. The side seconds hand must be perfectly flat and pass over the dial with minimal clearance. The gap between the hands should be carefully checked around the entire circumference of the dial.
It is most convenient to shoot arrows with tweezers. The hole in the arrow must match the diameter of the bearing axle. If the hole is too narrow, widen it with a drill. Drill in several steps, gradually using drills of a larger diameter.
With the normal length of the minute hand, its tip should overlap half to two-thirds of the width of the minute scale. If the arrow is too long, you can adjust it by placing the arrow on thick glass and cutting off the ends with a knife. The end of the hour hand must cover no more than one third of the digits.
In the event that the dial of the watch is not flat, but curved, the minute hand usually comes close to the glass in the area of numbers 6 and 12 and with the dial in the area of numbers 3 and 9. These places must be carefully checked to prevent the hand from touching the glass or dial.
Such watches include the following: watches with a shockproof device, watches with automatic winding, with various signaling devices, with a single or double calendar, etc. Repair of such watches at home is more difficult, but possible.
Nowadays, watches with a central second hand and a shockproof device are quite popular (Fig. 3).
Rice. 3. Kinematic diagram of a watch mechanism with a central second hand and a shockproof device:
4 - drum with shaft and spring;
7 - tribe of the central second hand;
11 - shockproof devices;
13 - escape wheel with tribe;
The spring motor of such a watch is located inside a tightly closed drum. This design is convenient so that dirt does not get into the engine, and grease does not leak out. The wheel system consists of a small number of wheels (in this design there are only 4 of them - anchor, second, intermediate and central). The central wheel (6) has a through hole. A tribe (7) passes through it. The second hand is rigidly fixed on the axis of the tribe.
The shockproof device in watches is designed to prevent breakage or deformation of one of the most fragile parts - the balance axis. The principle of operation of the anti-shock device is that the balance supports, supported in a certain position by a spring, are displaced with a lateral push, protecting the axle, and then return to their original position.
On the basis of the shockproof device, additional systems can also be manufactured, such as self-winding, signaling device or calendar.
Calendar devices can be single (show the days of the month), double (show the day, day of the week or the name of the month) and triple (show all three dates).
In order to familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of the calendar clock device, study the attached diagram of a clock with a single calendar (Fig. 4).
Rice. 4. Kinematic diagram of the Slava 2414 watch:
6 - an asterisk for the indicator of the days of the week;
12 - second wheel with tribe;
13 - intermediate wheel with tribe;
14 - central wheel with a tribe;
18 - mechanism for winding the spring and shifting the arrows;
21 - gear wheel winding
The movement is transmitted from one drum to the second drum (17) through the winding transmission wheel (21). Then, through the transmission wheel (20), the movement is transmitted to the pin of the central wheel (14). After that, the impulse goes to the intermediate wheel pin (13), to the second wheel pin (12), to the escape wheel pin (11) and the truss fork (10). Already from the anchor fork, the movement is transferred to the balance regulator. To transfer the hands, the movement is transmitted through the bill wheel (15) to the hour (7). The hour hand is rigidly fixed on the hour wheel sleeve.
The mechanism of the calendar device is mounted on the watch plate from the dial side.
The calendar wheel is pressed onto the watch wheel. The calendar wheel meshes with the teeth of the daily wheel, which makes one revolution per day. The so-called cam is rigidly attached to the day wheel. It acts on the switch, on the assembly of which the pawl is fixed. Under the influence of its own spring, the pawl rotates about the axis, captures the tooth of the date indicator and moves it under the action of the switch spring. The date indicator is fixed with a retainer spring.
Video (click to play). Open the case, remove the mechanism from the case base and remove all arrows. Remove the watch dial, having previously unscrewed the dial fastening screws by 1–2 turns. Then it is necessary to remove the balance assembly with the bridge from the mechanism, having previously unscrewed the screw of the balance bridge.
Alexey S (today, 13:47) wrote:
Like any mechanism, it needs maintenance - cleaning, lubrication, adjustment. Usually an 8 day plant.
Post has been edited by Alexey S: 02 December 2011 - 01:51
just like that, only the second hand is available
they are not marine, but marine, they really say moisture does not penetrate into them, then they have a gasket. And they can stand or have fun anywhere
no metal, with a resealable lid, it is written made in the USSR. they say they were put on Soviet ships and submarines
