DIY bpw caliper repair

Brakes are a very important element of any car, because your safety depends on their performance. The main load on any car is borne by the front part, as we know there disc brakes. After a long mileage, already from 60,000 kilometers and more, the braking efficiency begins to fall, this may be due to improper operation of the brake caliper, sometimes you can even catch a "wedge". However, the device is quite simple and can be repaired by hand. I think this article will be useful to you, at the end there will be a detailed video ...

CONTENTS OF THE ARTICLE

To begin with, I will say that the front wheel can simply jam, by analogy as in this article, it just stops spinning! Guys, this is very dangerous, at speed it can lead to an accident. Therefore, the caliper must be diagnosed correctly and on time. However, to begin with, a little about the structure.

There will be a separate article about the caliper, but now I want to show on my "fingers" what moving parts there are that suffer in the first place. This is a fairly simple device, it has only two working elements - guides and pistons.

They are the culprits of the whole "celebration", if they fail, then the work is disrupted. However, the structure of the piston is now quite strong, physical leakage, when you broke, say, the brake hose, is now a rare phenomenon. And therefore the caliper breaks down due to acidification of the pistons and guides, but about that a little lower.

If the operation of this unit is disrupted, then it turns out that there is an uneven wear of the brake pads. You just need to pull them out and look at them, if they work correctly, they should have approximately the same wear (plus or minus 10%). If the rear, for example, is thicker than the front, it turns out that the caliper is not working properly! The brake disc is also worth looking at - wear should be even. If the wear of the pads is uneven, and it is pronounced, for example, the outer one is much more worn out than the inner one, you urgently need to either change or repair the caliper and not wait until it jam.

Such uneven wear speaks only of the rim - the pistons strongly press on one pad (there is maximum wear), and the second does not seem to be involved at all.

The reasons, as always, are commonplace, they are "souring" or "coking" of the brake pistons or guides. This can happen both due to improper maintenance and due to a banal breakdown.

1) Improper service. Often, LITOL or graphite grease is stuffed on the guides in the garages of folk craftsmen, which leads to the swelling of the anther of the guide, and later it simply "sours".

2) This is a banal anther breakthrough. Moisture begins to flow onto the guide, which sooner or later will corrode it and lead to acidification.

3) The next reason lies in the piston itself. Its body can also suffer from a ruptured anther, water gets in.

4) Either from poor quality brake fluid. It is hydroscopic, and therefore, over time, a lot of water accumulates in it, if it is not replaced, it begins to corrode the piston from the inside, which also leads to acidification.

Well, now let's go directly to the repair of the caliper. Let's start with the simplest.

Often, the guides are a kind of bolts that are screwed into special lugs of the body. If they show foci of corrosion that can no longer be removed, then they just need to be replaced.

We unscrew it from the mount (ear) and insert a new guide, a very simple replacement.After that, you need to use only the correct lubricant (usually comes in the kit), and it is also important not to forget to put on the anthers, we immediately check them for leaks, there should be no breaks and cracks. Now I propose to move on to the pistons.

Here the task is more difficult, because they are located inside the caliper body and repair is not so easy. I want to note right away - there are times when the piston gets wedged in the body, and it does not move at all! There can be two actions here:

1) Try to revive this caliper, put it "soak", say, in gasoline or silicone grease. Then carefully try to pull the piston out of the housing.

2) Buy a corny new caliper. Sometimes it jams very firmly, breaking the case; repairs will not help here.

If the pistons are still running, the first difficulty concerns pulling them out of the body. To do this, the service station uses compressed air, which is fed into the brake fluid hole. Thus, the piston simply flies out, if you are doing repairs in the garage, then you need to "squeeze out" with the help of brake fluid, simply without disconnecting them from the general system. Do not worry that the "brake" will leak, you still need to change it after repair.

Now we examine the case. If there are traces of bending, rust, or mechanical damage, then it definitely needs to be changed, the repair will not be justified here. To do this, we purchase a repair kit, with rubber seals and new pistons, it is important to replace that it must have a special lubricant, usually for both the guides and pistons! IT IS IMPORTANT!

Without it, there will be no point in repairing, because how can you break new seals.

Now I will list the points:

1) We take out the old rubber bands and seals.

3) We clean the case, both outside and inside.

4) Then, applying a new lubricant, we process all the attachment points.

5) Install the gum seals

6) Install the pistons, also pre-lubricated.

After these manipulations, we collect the caliper. The repair is finished, it can be installed on the car. Do not forget to change the brake fluid and then bleed the system.

Now I want to provide you with a detailed repair video, described in more detail.

That's all, I think my article was useful to you, put the likes in the social. networks!

The article will discuss how the brake caliper works and how to perform caliper repair do it yourself at home.

When the driver presses the brake pedal, the pads are pressed against the discs and thus the car stops. But unfortunately, they have not yet come up with mechanisms that could retract the brake pads to their original position. They just stop pressing tightly against the discs. Often, after long-term operation, the brake mechanism acquires some malfunctions, which significantly affects the rapid or uneven wear of brake pads and discs, increased noise and an unpleasant odor. The pads overheat and lose their grip at the same time. In short, the vehicle's braking system becomes ineffective.

In fact, there are not so many reasons why such malfunctions are possible. These are either damaged guides along which the caliper moves, or dirt on the working surface that interferes with the free movement of the pads.

Well, or the caliper itself. The last option will be discussed in this material:

-Small amendment: there is still a part in the caliper that contributes to the return movement of the piston after the loss of pressure - this is the cuff. On the one hand, it provides tightness, on the other, it is a kind of spring. Square in cross-section, when the piston moves, it deforms, and then tends to take the form of rest, along the way slightly recessed the piston into the body.

Over time, the elasticity of the cuff is lost, the pads remain pressed against the discs, increased friction, overheating and all other delights. This is not always obvious.How can you troubleshoot?

First of all, the suspended wheel should spin freely, even immediately after pressing and releasing the brake pedal.

Brake discs must not show signs of overheating

outer and inner pads should not have a difference in thickness

brake caliper piston should be easily recessed into the housing.

If there is cause for concern, we start looking for a problem. Most often it occurs due to a damaged anther.

but even if outwardly intact, look under it

the piston surface must be perfectly flat, without any traces of rust or dirt.

VAG provides a repair kit consisting of rubber bands, there are also a bunch of analogues from third-party manufacturers

but there is no piston on sale. However, this is not a problem at all, you can safely use non-original pistons available on the free sale for cars of previous generations.

And now about the repair procedure itself:

-jump the car and unscrew the wheel, turn the steering wheel to the extreme position

-remove the retaining spring

- thoroughly clean the surface near the brake hose mount

- rinse with some kind of cleaner, blow with air

-in order not to lose the brake fluid level, we pinch the brake hose

- unscrew the hollow bolt securing the hose,

- so that the dirt does not get inside, and the liquid does not flood everything around, put a simple bolt with a thread 10 * 1.5 into the hole

-remove the protective caps on the guides

-Unscrew the guides with a 7 mm hexagon.

-it is necessary to slightly drown the piston, for that, using a thick screwdriver, we move the body away from the disk

-remove the caliper, helping ourselves with a screwdriver (screwdrivers)

- one block can remain in the bracket, one is fixed with a spring to the caliper

—stopping support in hand. Remove the cover with a flat screwdriver

- miracles, but even with external well-being, moisture could be inside

-the piston can be removed from the body in three ways:

- without still disconnecting the caliper from the hose, remove it from the disc, and press the brake pedal until the piston falls out. And immediately pinch the hose.

- squeeze the body in a vice, and pull the piston with large "crocodiles", simultaneously making circular movements

- but the easiest way is to remove it with air. However, do not forget to provide support for the safety of your own body parts.

- having drained the remaining brake fluid, remove the old cuff

- it is necessary to thoroughly clean the seating surface of the protective cover

-and also grooves for the cuff

-Before reassembly, it is necessary to flush again (ELSA recommends alcohol, but not inside) and blow with air.

- with clean (!) hands we put a new cuff

-Slightly lubricate it with fresh brake fluid

-a bit t. spill on the piston surface (the same ELSA provides a special paste for this)

- we put the piston in the body strictly vertically, and slightly shaking it, with the effort of our fingers, we press it

-Drowning almost to the middle, put on a protective cover

- making sure that the elastic is not jammed anywhere, press the cover onto the case. A wire ring is welded into it, a special mandrel is provided for an even fit by VAG

-but you can do without it, the main thing is uniform effort

- drown the piston completely, and then push it out with the help of air, and make sure that the boot is flat, not twisted or torn anywhere

- re-sink the piston completely, and you can start assembling. However, since we have come to the repair and maintenance of brakes, everything must be done correctly. So - we unscrew the caliper brackets

-and thoroughly clean all surfaces on which the pads move

-make sure that the thread into which the guides are screwed is not damaged

* weak point on VW of the latest generation. Often, when unscrewing the guide, dirt and rust formed on the protruding part pull out the threads behind them.

-screw the bracket into place (before reuse, clean the bolts and tighten them with a torque of 190Nm ),

put the block on and make sure that it does not get stuck anywhere

-clean the guides from dirt. If there are traces of rust, it is better to replace them altogether.

-insert the inner block into the piston with a spring, put the caliper on the bracket, bait the guides with your fingers (!)

be sure to make sure that the bolt goes along the thread, and only then tighten (30 Nm)

-we put on the caps, so as not to forget later, insert the spring

-the brake hose is attached to brake caliper hollow bolt, and sealed with two rings.

- we can safely call them disposable.

And they are removed only with the help of a tool

-but at the same time it is not possible to find them in ETKA as a separate part. You can safely put rings from a similar assembly used in domestic cars. Unless, before installing, slightly move back and forth on a fine skin

- Before assembly, blow out the fitting

-and clean the mating plane on the hose

-Unscrew the bleed fitting and release the brake hose

- usually, after such work, there is no need to pump the circuit, it is enough to wait until the liquid flows from the fitting, evenly and without bubbles

-for ecology lovers, you can hang a bottle and control the air through a transparent hose

- tighten the shooter (30Nm), get behind the wheel and reduce the pads with a few strokes of the pedal.

-wash off the remaining brake fluid and others and traces of activity

- especially pay attention to the CV joint boot, ball joint and steering tip covers

If these are not observed, we fasten the wheel, lower the jack. Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Top up if necessary.

Make a test drive. If the pedal fails when pressed for the first time, and after a couple of strokes it becomes higher, repeat the procedure for removing air.

There is also a possibility that due to the different elasticity of the cuffs in the old and worn caliper there will be a difference in the speed of the brakes. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out the bulkhead on both sides at once.

Well, now you can rejoice in the serviceable brakes.
Thus, now you have learned how to execute repair of front and rear brake caliper

Next, take the cylinder and take the anther. Lubricate the cylinder and put the boot on the cylinder. Look at the photo on which side you need to put the boot on the cylinder!

After putting on the boot, pull it to the opposite edge of the cylinder so that part of the boot protrudes beyond the cylinder.

Now we take the resulting “construction” in our hands and insert the protruding part of the boot into the caliper.

After tucking the boot into the grooves of the caliper, push the cylinder inward until it stops. Now the cylinder rested against the O-ring and force is needed to push it further.
! If the gum and cylinder are poorly lubricated, then you will hardly succeed and there is a chance to break the sealing gum. So I finished the first repair kit!
I did not have the strength to push the cylinder into the cylinder with my hands, and I used a device for distributing the brake cylinders.

The main thing is that the cylinder should enter without distortions. And if he does not want to climb at all, then it is better to pull him out and try again. I did it the third time. It took a little effort and after a moment the cylinder passed the rubber O-ring with little persistence.

We put the anthers on the caliper guides and install the caliper in the reverse order. Don't forget to lubricate all moving and twisting parts!

D4648 (SEINSA AUTOFREN) CALIPER REPAIR KIT one side.
GA5R33691 (MAZDA) BRAKE BLEEDING UNIT

PS: the article itself is located here, go in and click "like", who is not difficult =)

The braking system of a car is one of the most important components of safe driving. She is responsible for the timely stop of the vehicle, if the need arises.The safety and lives of people depend on the serviceability of the car's braking system.

The braking system of a modern car consists of several elements. Each of them has its own individual function. The centerpiece, no doubt, is the caliper. It ensures the adherence of the pads to the disc in order to slow down the rotation of the wheel and reduce the speed of a moving vehicle.

Pressing the brake pedal by the driver increases the pressure in the system line. The excess pressure is smoothly transferred to the caliper pistons. They move and press the brake pads against the surface of the disc.

Due to the frictional force, the pads slow down the rotation of the disc and, accordingly, the wheels of the vehicle. Due to this, the car begins to slow down. During operation, the surface of the caliper heats up due to the effect of frictional forces.

A quality support should have excellent heat dissipation and be resistant to high temperatures. Even with strong heating, its surface should not change its shape.

Timely replacement of a worn out caliper is a guarantee of safety. A car as a source of increased danger with faulty brakes is a formidable force that can cause trouble.

At the first sign of wear on the brake calipers, you must take immediate action to replace them. The main sign of maximum wear on these brake elements is the appearance of an unhealthy squeak when braking the car.

A creak appears with significant wear of the metal of the mechanism. Inexperienced drivers often confuse it with the squeak produced by worn out brake pads. If you wish and have free time, you can repair the caliper with your own hands.

As you know, prevention significantly reduces the level of premature wear of the calipers. No need to be lazy to check their condition once again. This will help maintain the braking mechanism in the best possible condition over a long period of time.

Caliper care consists in its dismantling, disassembly and lubrication of moving parts. In principle, everything is simple and straightforward. But at the same time, only a few drivers look after him with an enviable frequency.

When visually inspecting the mechanism, special attention must be paid to the integrity of the rubber seals. Dust, water, dirt begins to penetrate through small tears of the material, causing scratches on the surface of the piston and increasing its wear.

Lubrication is one of the most important maintenance items. It reduces friction and thus reduces wear on the working mechanism. The use of lithol or graphite is unacceptable. A special caliper lubricant is required.

Having free time, and most importantly, desires, enable the driver to repair the caliper on his own, without involving outside help. There are calipers for front and rear car wheels.

• a jack is installed under the car. The wheelset is dismantled. The lower bolt is unscrewed and the brake pad is removed
• after dismantling the pad, the upper fixing bolt is unscrewed. Hose with brake fluid filming is optional. The caliper bracket is removed, for which the bolts are unscrewed
• the piston must be removed from the caliper. To do this, it is enough to smoothly press the brake pedal and the generated pressure will push it out. After removing the piston, the brake line must be plugged.
• having completely disassembled the caliper, you can start cleaning it from dirt. Cleaning liquid used
• a pre-purchased repair kit is used (o-ring, grease, piston boot, guide boot)
• do-it-yourself caliper assembly in reverse order.

• the machine is installed on a jack and the wheelset is removed
• the handbrake cable is disconnected. The cotter pin connecting the caliper and the handbrake mechanism is removed.
• the brake line is muffled
• the fixing bolts holding the caliper are unscrewed, and it is removed, opening access to the brake pads
• pads are dismantled
• the bolts fixing the caliper bracket to the car's suspension parts are unscrewed
• the bracket with clamps and guides is dismantled
• further steps must be performed by analogy with the front wheel calipers.

After completing the repair of the caliper with your own hands, you need to check the brake fluid level or bleed the brakes ... In principle, there is nothing complicated and everything can be done quickly enough.

Thank you for your attention, good luck on the road. Read, comment and ask questions. Subscribe to fresh and interesting articles on the site.

Most modern cars use disc brakes. The main working body is the caliper, which clamps the disc with pads. In order for this system to work with high efficiency, regular monitoring of the technical condition is necessary. To do this, you can contact our car service for professional diagnostics and, if necessary, repair work. In addition to preventive maintenance and repair, it is possible to order caliper repair kits for cars from the following manufacturers: VAZ, Opel, Ford, Audi, Renault, Peugeot, Citroen, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Volkswagen, BMW and others. But many car owners prefer to perform these procedures on their own. There is no need for special conditions to repair the brake caliper yourself. All that is needed is a set of standard plumbing tools and a device with which you can reliably jack up the car.

Signs of a malfunctioning brake caliper:

• increased braking distance;
• difficult roll forward;
• the car is pulled to the side when braking;
• vibration of the pedal when braking;
• grinding in the area of ​​the caliper when driving:
  it is worth noting that the reasons may be different, from a stone that has fallen to the banal wear of the pads, however, the wear of the pads can be caused by a faulty caliper;
• characteristic traces of overheating on the brake disc;
• uneven wear of pads from one caliper;
• excessive heating of the disc.

The main causes of the malfunction:

• damaged guides;
• dirt on the free running surface of the pads;
• wear on the cuff;
• loss of tightness of the anther of the piston.

It should be noted that some motorists decide not to restore the brake caliper, but replace it. But in most cases, it is quite possible to get by with a bulkhead and purchase a repair kit, which will significantly save money.

It is necessary to jack up the car in order to be able to dismantle the required wheel. Next, you need to inspect the pads, determining the level and uniformity of their wear. Then you should disconnect the caliper from the bracket and visually inspect the piston boot for damage. The piston should have a light stroke when pressed into the housing. It so happens that even behind the whole, at first glance, the anther hides dirt and moisture, and, accordingly, rust.

Therefore, it is worth looking under the boot, carefully using the tool. The piston surface must be clean and level. If any of these defects are found, then the caliper needs to be disassembled and restored using a repair kit. In addition, it is necessary to check the condition of the guides and the contact points of the pads for free play.

Dismantling the brake caliper:

1. Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. To prevent fluid loss, pinch the hose or plug the hole.
2. Remove the piston boot.
3. Next, remove the piston from the caliper housing.
4. Removing the old cuff.
5. Cleaning the boot site as well as the cuff groove.
6. Flush the entire unit as a whole and with clean hands
7. Installing a cuff lubricated with brake fluid into the landing groove.
8. Installing a cleaned or new piston.It is carried out vertically, evenly by hand.
9. Putting on the boot in the middle of the piston path.
10. After the piston enters the housing, it should be pushed out a little again, for example with air. This procedure will help make sure that the boot is flat and not damaged.
11. The recessed piston can again be ready for the installation process.

It is also worth not forgetting about pumping the circuit, which has been exposed to fluid leakage.

Do-it-yourself brake caliper repair is easy with basic plumbing skills. The main thing is not to forget about care and carefully carry out all the described nuances of the work. After all, the braking system is the key to the safe movement of the car.

It so happens that the car starts to brake badly. You press and the brake pedal has become firm and as if something wedges in the wheels. Open the brake master cylinder reservoir cap - if the fluid foams or is dark in color, you will have to do a complete brake fluid change. However, most likely, the matter is in the brake caliper or its guides. And you are quite capable of repairing the caliper with your own hands.

Removing the car brake caliper

You are quite capable of repairing the caliper with your own hands.

1. We tear off the wheel bolts (17, 19, 21 turnkey sizes).
2. We put the car on the handbrake, raise and fix it additionally with a special wooden "goat" or something else.
3. We unscrew the wheel bolts or studs (whatever you have there).
4. We remove the wheel.
5. Next, using a screwdriver, we try to squeeze the caliper away from us. If it gets stuck, we try to move it at least a little.
6. There are two bolts behind the caliper (usually 14). We unscrew them.
7. Remove the caliper. Prepare a stand for it in advance, or hang it on the shock absorber spring. The caliper must never hang from the brake hose.
8. Remove the brake pads from the mount.

Car brake caliper repair

The first thing to do is to inspect the caliper guides (popularly "soldiers"), they most often fail.

The first thing to do is to inspect the caliper guides (popularly "soldiers"), they most often fail. "Soldiers" should easily walk back and forth. Naturally, they must be intact and completely removed. If their movement is difficult, or they "sour" in one place, then make a simple repair of the caliper guides.

1. Using "VD-40" (or other), clean the anthers of the guides, their seats. As soon as light foam goes instead of dark, it means that the dirt has come out.
2. Now you need to take a special lubricant for the brake caliper guides (you can use lithol). Liberally lubricate the body of the "soldier", then walk it back and forth several times in the seat.

Perhaps this is all that you can do with your own hands when repairing the caliper guides. If the boot is damaged, buy it, install a new one. The guide is broken off - you also need to purchase a new one (before that, remove the chip), it is not recommended to weld.
There are repair kits for the caliper guides on sale, they include four guides and anthers (only for the rear or only for the front brakes).