DIY Haldex caliper repair

Brakes are a very important element of any car, because your safety depends on their performance. The main load on any car is borne by the front part, as we know there disc brakes. After a long mileage, already from 60,000 kilometers and more, the braking efficiency begins to fall, this may be due to improper operation of the brake caliper, sometimes you can even catch a "wedge". However, the device is quite simple and can be repaired by hand. I think this article will be useful to you, at the end there will be a detailed video ...

CONTENTS OF THE ARTICLE

To begin with, I will say that the front wheel can simply jam, by analogy as in this article, it just stops spinning! Guys, this is very dangerous, at speed it can lead to an accident. Therefore, the caliper must be diagnosed correctly and on time. However, to begin with, a little about the structure.

There will be a separate article about the caliper, but now I want to show on my "fingers" what moving parts there are that suffer in the first place. This is a fairly simple device, it has only two working elements - guides and pistons.

They are the culprits of the whole "celebration", if they fail, then the work is disrupted. However, the structure of the piston is now quite strong, physical leakage, when you broke, say, the brake hose, is now a rare phenomenon. And therefore the caliper breaks down due to acidification of the pistons and guides, but about that a little lower.

If the operation of this unit is disrupted, then it turns out that there is an uneven wear of the brake pads. You just need to pull them out and look at them, if they work correctly, they should have approximately the same wear (plus or minus 10%). If the rear, for example, is thicker than the front, it turns out that the caliper is not working properly! The brake disc is also worth looking at - wear should be even. If the wear of the pads is uneven, and it is pronounced, for example, the outer one is much more worn out than the inner one, you urgently need to either change or repair the caliper and not wait until it jam.

Such uneven wear speaks only of the rim - the pistons strongly press on one pad (there is maximum wear), and the second does not seem to be involved at all.

The reasons, as always, are commonplace, they are "souring" or "coking" of the brake pistons or guides. This can happen both due to improper maintenance and due to a banal breakdown.

1) Improper service. Often, LITOL or graphite grease is stuffed on the guides in the garages of folk craftsmen, which leads to the swelling of the anther of the guide, and later it simply "sours".

2) This is a banal anther breakthrough. Moisture begins to flow onto the guide, which sooner or later will corrode it and lead to acidification.

3) The next reason lies in the piston itself. Its body can also suffer from a ruptured anther, water gets in.

4) Either from poor quality brake fluid. It is hydroscopic, and therefore, over time, a lot of water accumulates in it, if it is not replaced, it begins to corrode the piston from the inside, which also leads to acidification.

Well, now let's go directly to the repair of the caliper. Let's start with the simplest.

Often, the guides are a kind of bolts that are screwed into special lugs of the body. If they show foci of corrosion that can no longer be removed, then they just need to be replaced.

We unscrew it from the mount (ear) and insert a new guide, a very simple replacement.After that, you need to use only the correct lubricant (usually comes in the kit), and it is also important not to forget to put on the anthers, we immediately check them for leaks, there should be no breaks and cracks. Now I propose to move on to the pistons.

Here the task is more difficult, because they are located inside the caliper body and repair is not so easy. I want to note right away - there are times when the piston gets wedged in the body, and it does not move at all! There can be two actions here:

1) Try to revive this caliper, put it "soak", say, in gasoline or silicone grease. Then carefully try to pull the piston out of the housing.

2) Buy a corny new caliper. Sometimes it jams very firmly, breaking the case; repairs will not help here.

If the pistons are still running, the first difficulty concerns pulling them out of the body. To do this, the service station uses compressed air, which is fed into the brake fluid hole. Thus, the piston simply flies out, if you are doing repairs in the garage, then you need to "squeeze out" with the help of brake fluid, simply without disconnecting them from the general system. Do not worry that the "brake" will leak, you still need to change it after repair.

Now we examine the case. If there are traces of bending, rust, or mechanical damage, then it definitely needs to be changed, the repair will not be justified here. To do this, we purchase a repair kit, with rubber seals and new pistons, it is important to replace that it must have a special lubricant, usually for both the guides and pistons! IT IS IMPORTANT!

Without it, there will be no point in repairing, because how can you break new seals.

Now I will list the points:

1) We take out the old rubber bands and seals.

3) We clean the case, both outside and inside.

4) Then, applying a new lubricant, we process all the attachment points.

5) Install the gum seals

6) Install the pistons, also pre-lubricated.

After these manipulations, we collect the caliper. The repair is finished, it can be installed on the car. Do not forget to change the brake fluid and then bleed the system.

Now I want to provide you with a detailed repair video, described in more detail.

That's all, I think my article was useful to you, put the likes in the social. networks!

It so happens that the car starts to brake badly. You press and the brake pedal has become firm and as if something wedges in the wheels. Open the brake master cylinder reservoir cap - if the fluid foams or is dark in color, you will have to do a complete brake fluid change. However, most likely, the matter is in the brake caliper or its guides. And you are quite capable of repairing the caliper with your own hands.

Removing the car brake caliper

You are quite capable of repairing the caliper with your own hands.

1. We tear off the wheel bolts (17, 19, 21 turnkey sizes).
2. We put the car on the handbrake, raise and fix it additionally with a special wooden "goat" or something else.
3. We unscrew the wheel bolts or studs (whatever you have there).
4. We remove the wheel.
5. Next, using a screwdriver, we try to squeeze the caliper away from us. If it gets stuck, we try to move it at least a little.
6. There are two bolts behind the caliper (usually 14). We unscrew them.
7. Remove the caliper. Prepare a stand for it in advance, or hang it on the shock absorber spring. The caliper must never hang from the brake hose.
8. Remove the brake pads from the mount.

Car brake caliper repair

The first thing to do is to inspect the caliper guides (popularly "soldiers"), they most often fail.

The first thing to do is to inspect the caliper guides (popularly "soldiers"), they most often fail. "Soldiers" should easily walk back and forth. Naturally, they must be intact and completely removed.If their movement is difficult, or they "sour" in one place, then make a simple repair of the caliper guides.

1. Using "VD-40" (or other), clean the anthers of the guides, their seats. As soon as light foam goes instead of dark, it means that the dirt has come out.
2. Now you need to take a special lubricant for the brake caliper guides (you can use lithol). Liberally lubricate the body of the "soldier", then walk it back and forth several times in the seat.

Perhaps this is all that you can do with your own hands when repairing the caliper guides. If the boot is damaged, buy it, install a new one. The guide is broken off - you also need to purchase a new one (before that, remove the chip), it is not recommended to weld.
There are repair kits for the caliper guides on sale, they include four guides and anthers (only for the rear or only for the front brakes).