In detail: do-it-yourself Nexia caliper repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
4. INNER STAPLE BODY
22. INNER PROTECTIVE CAPS FOR GUIDE SLEEVES
Removing the piston protective cover
4. INNER STAPLE BODY
7. PISTON PROTECTIVE COVER
Dismantling the guide bush
A. WOODEN BAR
B. VICE
C. COMPRESSED AIR HOSE TIP
4. INNER STAPLE BODY
9. PISTON
24. EXTERNAL PART OF THE CASE OF THE BRACKET
4. INNER STAPLE BODY
24. EXTERNAL PART OF THE CASE OF THE BRACKET
Removing the piston seal
A. WOODEN (PLASTIC) TOOL
B. VICE
4. INNER CALIPER BODY
8. PISTON SEAL
It is forbidden to hold the piston with your fingers when pressing it out of the cylinder using compressed air. This could result in serious injury.
The regular Nexia calipers are not particularly fond of. It happens that the block wedges, and besides, changing the blocks on them is rather inconvenient - it's hard to put everything in its place. The calipers from the Lanos are put in place of the standard calipers, while all problems disappear - nothing wedges anywhere, and changing the pads is very simple.
Let's start shooting the native Nexia support. Using the “19” wrench, unscrew the 2 bolts that hold the second half of the caliper. Then, clamp the shoe guides and remove part of the caliper.
Unscrewing the small bolt, remove the old brake disc. I change the brake disc not only because the caliper is being replaced. As a result of something, the old disk led and twisted. During braking, vibration was felt. This meant that some side of the brake disc was not flat and the brake pad was quickly eaten away.
If your brake disc is in good condition, it is not necessary to replace it.
The calipers come with brake pads. Therefore, it makes no sense to buy pads
Video (click to play). |
- 962 343 39 Front Left Brake Caliper
- 962 343 40 Front Right Brake Caliper
We hook the caliper with a wire and hang it from the rack so as not to damage the brake hose
Any motorist, and not only knows that the braking system of a car is important and significant. Its duty is to reduce the speed of transport as soon as possible, up to a complete stop. Initially, the designers conceived: for greater efficiency, there should be several such systems.
On the Daewoo Nexia car, the coordinated work of three such systems is provided: parking, emergency and working.
The parking system is a handbrake. Its task is to keep the car stationary when parked. It is also used as a backup (emergency) option in the event of an unexpected failure of the working braking system. The role of a stupor is performed by the brakes on the rear wheels of the car.
The main one is the working braking system. To activate it, it is enough to press the pedal intended for this, providing a smooth decrease in speed.
Disc brakes are installed on the front axle of Daewoo Nexia, and drum brakes on the rear axle.
The brake disc, pads and caliper together make up the disc system. Above the rotating disc, a front caliper is fixed, which also has special grooves for engaging with the drive slave cylinders. The pads are tightly pressed against its body by means of springs. Acting as a "hydraulic vice", it ensures the safety of all road users: both car passengers and pedestrians, being the main element of the braking system.
Not every car enthusiast understands the principle of the brake from the point of view of physics. But it is important for everyone to ensure their smooth operation. To do this, it is necessary to identify the malfunction in time and carry out repairs.
On Daewoo Nexia, it is sometimes necessary to change the standard front calipers. There may be several reasons: the outer pad wears out, the cylinder seals let oil through, the guides rust from excess moisture and dirt. Therefore, in the event of a malfunction of one of the elements, it will be reasonable to replace the rest by purchasing a repair kit for the brake system. For this Daewoo model, the Lanos repair kit is perfect. The assembly of such a repair kit contains guide pins, seals, staples.
The advantages of changing are obvious:
- The mileage of brake pads will increase (instead of 15,000 km - 50,000)
- Increases braking efficiency by 30%
- Jack up the vehicle and remove the front wheel.
- Using a screwdriver as a lever, separate the pads from the drum and, after unscrewing the fastening bolts of the fingers, remove the "native" caliper.
- As for the brake hose: it is better to disconnect it while the "hydraulic vice" of the car is fixed. Take the hose into a pre-prepared jar (for dripping liquid).
- Then remove the pads together with the pressure plates. If the brake disc also needs to be replaced, remove it as well.
- Next, using a repair kit, install new parts.
- Carry out the work in the reverse order. To attach the hose, be sure to buy a new copper or aluminum washer, as it will be squeezed during operation.
The purchased kit also contains pads. Codes for purchase through 96234339 and 96234340. A kit intended for repairing Daewoo cars, consisting of pins, seals and brackets, made in China, comes under the code 93740249. Similarly, replacement is carried out on the other side.
After about 10,000 km, the Nexia's "hydraulic vice" begins to ring. The renovation is pretty straightforward. You need to buy spray lubricant and be patient.
Remove the wheel and use a 14 wrench to unscrew the two bolts holding the moving part of the caliper. Pull out guide pins and boots. Clean all parts from old grease. Coat all removed components with new grease and assemble the entire system. At the same time, do not lubricate the guides too much, since its excess is observed during assembly. The repair will not take more than half an hour.
To increase the service life of all components of the braking system, you can use their replacement with similar parts from the Opel Vectra car. Perfect fit on Nexia and front clamping brackets.
You won't believe it, but about problems with the calipers of Daewoo Lanos, Sens and Nexia cars know already far beyond the borders of the CIS countries! Apparently, they knock very loudly and persistently, that sunny Italy has decided to lend a helping hand to our motorists;). "Where does this information come from?" - you ask. Yes, it's simple. You will understand everything yourself by looking at the photos of the repair kit, which was found by me at the Gloss car market. Watch and read carefully!
The packaging says “MADE IN ITALY” (photo 1). According to the seller, the repair kit is of good quality, there is no need to saw or drill anything, removed the old guide fingers and installed new, noiseless, “Italian” ones. And the calipers do not knock! Bomb!
Of course, after such stories, I immediately bought one set. It became interesting, in fact, to check the veracity of the seller's words and Italian technologies))).
I unpack the packaging. Well, what can I say, well done. The kit consists of: four guide pins, each with two rubber sealing rings. Four anthers. And two containers of grease (photo 2).
Rubber rings are quite an interesting solution in the fight against Lanos musical calipers... I myself have long been hatching the idea of installing rubber seals on the guide pins. Only in my plans, the rubber rings were to be much wider and installed at the ends of the guide pins. Approximately the same as on the guide pins of the Mitsubishi Lancer 9 calipers. But, the option with the installation of two thin rings on the finger is also not bad))).I think it's even cheaper and easier than mine. As you can see from photo 3, on one product the ring is installed differently from the rest. This, I think is not critical, but suggests an idea of inaccurate Italian equipment 😉
The anthers that came with the kit had to be slightly processed - to remove the fringe from the casting. And they became similar to the original anthers (photo 4).
A few words about the lubricant that was carefully put into the bag. The first container contains copper grease, as I understand it, to lubricate the guide pin bolts. Lubrication from the second container, logically, was intended to process the guide pins before installation. As a last resort, I decided so, since there were no instructions for use in the package.
After I figured out the contents of the repair kit. I decided to look for Lanos or Sens with broken calipers... Probably I won't surprise you, but I didn't have to search for a long time. Daewoo Lanos, with a clatter characteristic of calipers, appeared on the horizon.
And now I will briefly describe the installation of guide pins with rubber rings on the front brake caliper of Daewoo Lanos, Daewoo Nexia, Daewoo Sens:
He spread the pads. Unscrewed the two guide pin mounting bolts. He took off and hung up the brake cylinder (photo 5, 6, 7).
Pulled out old fingers and anthers. Removed the old grease (photo 8, 9, 10)
Then I installed new anthers, added a little grease to the anthers, also lubricated the new, silent guides and installed them in the caliper bracket (photos 11 and 12). If anyone is interested, then I will say that I only use Bosch Superfit to lubricate the rails... Since in this matter I trust only her. I will not answer the question - "Why this particular lubricant?" Simply, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the material in which lists the ways to eliminate knocking and repair the calipers of Daewoo Lanos, Nexia, Sens and Chevrolet Lanos cars, there you can also find a list and discussion special greases (including Bosch Superfit) for the guide pins of the calipers.
I put on the brake cylinder and began to tighten the mounting bolts. This is where the first (and I hope, the last) jamb of silent, Italian guiding fingers was found: the fastening bolts could not be tightened without the use of additional tools (a 17 open-end wrench and a screwdriver). The fact is that the new guides have a smaller “hat” than the standard fingers. Therefore, they simply scroll and are not fixed in the sections of the brake cylinder (photo 13, 14, 15).
After installation, I checked the movement and play of the caliper. The caliper on the guides moves smoothly, does not jam. There is little play, but not critical. I did a similar job on the second support. I wrote down the date and mileage. Experiment started. I watch and control. Of course, I will inform you about the results!
Daewoo Nexia 2008. REMOVING FRONT BRAKE PARTS
We hang out and remove the front wheel.
Disconnect the lower tip of the brake hose from the caliper (see "Removing the front brake hose", p. 193).
Using a spanner wrench "13", unscrew the upper and lower bolts securing the caliper to the guide pins.
Remove the caliper and brake pads.
Remove the lower anti-skid plate installed in the groove of the shoe guide.
Remove the top plate in the same way.
For replacing the finger protector.
... remove the finger from the hole of the guide.
If you need to remove the shoe guide or brake disc.
... turn off the two screws securing the guide to the steering knuckle with a "10" hexagon.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw that secures the brake disc to the front wheel hub.
If the screw does not loosen, an impact screwdriver can be used.
To replace the caliper boot and O-ring.
... remove the piston from the caliper.
To remove the piston, you can supply compressed air from the tire pump through a hole in the caliper.
Removing the boot from the caliper
Remove the piston O-ring by prying it off with a screwdriver.
We replace the O-ring and the boot with new ones. We apply brake fluid to their working surfaces and the surface of the piston.
To install the piston, we clamp the caliper in a vice with soft metal jaws, center the piston and, pressing on its bottom with the hammer handle, sink the piston into the caliper.
We assemble and install the brake mechanism in reverse order. Lubricate the guide pins with graphite grease. Tighten the bolts of the guide shoes and the bolts of the caliper to the prescribed torque. We bleed the brake system (see "Bleeding the brakes", p. 32)
1. Remove the intermediate plates from the piston) of the brake pads.
2. Drain the remaining brake fluid from the caliper.
3. Check the condition of the guide pins and their protective covers. Covers must not have cracks or tears, and the surface of the fingers must be absolutely smooth. Otherwise, the damaged elements must be replaced.
4. Using a screwdriver, push the piston out of the caliper.
You can also push the piston out with compressed air.
Be careful when performing the following operation, the piston may fire. In order to avoid damage to the piston and personal injury, we put a rag or a wooden block between the piston body and the bracket.
5. Apply a slight pressure of compressed air to the brake fluid inlet and push the piston out.
6. Remove the piston from the cylinder body.
8. Using a slotted screwdriver, remove the sealing lip from the cylinder bore, taking care not to damage the cylinder mirror.
9. We clean the piston and cylinder from brake fluid residues and dirt.
10. We inspect the surfaces of the piston and cylinder; in case of wear, scratches or corrosion, we replace the parts.
11. Before assembling, grease the cuffs and the piston with clean brake fluid.
12. Install a new seal in the cylinder bore.
13. Install a new caliper boot on the piston.
14. Carefully insert the piston into the caliper cylinder, making sure that the boot collar fits into the corresponding cylinder bore.
15. Fully sink the piston into the caliper cylinder.
16. Further assembly of the caliper is carried out in the reverse order.
Removing the inner protective caps
4. INNER PART OF STAPLE BODY.
22. INNER PROTECTIVE CAPS FOR GUIDE SLEEVES
Removing the piston protective cover
4. INNER PART OF STAPLE BODY.
Dismantling the guide bush
Removing the piston
C. COMPRESSED AIR HOSE TIP.
4. INNER PART OF STAPLE BODY.
24. EXTERNAL PART OF THE CASE OF THE BRACKET
Dismantling the caliper
4. INNER PART OF STAPLE BODY.
24. EXTERNAL PART OF THE CASE OF THE BRACKET
Removing the piston seal
A. WOODEN (PLASTIC) TOOL.
4. INNER CASE CALIPER.
1. Remove the brake caliper ..
2. Remove the brake pads from the caliper ..
3. Use a chisel to remove the inner protective caps of the guide bushings c.
seats on the caliper body ..
4. Remove the protective cover 7 of the piston from the caliper bore ..
5. Slightly move the guide bushings 20 inside the caliper and remove the caps from the bushing grooves.
6. Remove the protective cover 7 from the piston and from the caliper bore ..
7. Slide the guide bushings 20 out of the bracket and remove the seals 21 using a wooden or plastic tool.
8. Press piston 9 out of the caliper cylinder using compressed air.
It is forbidden to hold the piston with your fingers when pressing it out of the cylinder c.
using compressed air. This can cause serious injury.
Insert a 15–20 mm thick solid wood block into the support window at.
9. Unscrew the tie bolts and separate parts 4 and 24 of the caliper. Clamp the caliper in a vice ..
10. Remove the piston seal 8 from the groove of the caliper cylinder using.
a suitable wood or plastic tool.Do not use metal tools for this, which can damage the cylinder mirror or groove ..
11. Unscrew the air release valve.
1. Clean all parts with alcohol or fresh brake fluid.
2. Dry the parts with a jet of oil-free compressed air.
3. Blow out all openings in the bracket body and the air release valve.
1. Piston and cylinder bore for presence.
2. Replace defective parts.
3. If any part shows signs of corrosion, replace the caliper assembly.
Any processing of the cylinder bore and piston associated with removal is prohibited.
Mounting the piston
4. INNER PART OF STAPLE BODY.
1. Install the pre-lubricated piston seal 8 into the mounting groove of the cylinder. Make sure the seal is not twisted ..
2. Install the pre-lubricated piston 9 into the caliper cylinder. Insert piston 9 carefully into the cylinder. When installing the piston, make sure that.
the piston does not stick and the seal sits normally in the cylinder groove. Not.
completely sink the piston into the cylinder. Leave the edge of the piston outside for.
installation of a protective cover in the piston groove ..
3. Install the protective cover 7 in the piston groove and on the caliper body
4. Protective cover 7 of the piston using the mounting tool KM-
5. Connect parts 4 and 24 of the caliper and screw in the tie bolts. Tighten the tie bolts to 95 Nm ..
6. Install the seals 21 on the guide bushings.
20. Coat the bushings 20 with a thin layer of the grease supplied in the spare parts kit.
7. Place the seals 21 in the grooves of the guide bushings.
the seals in the grooves are not twisted.
8. Insert the guide bushings into the holes in the caliper. Internal grooves.
protective caps 22 must face the piston
displacement of the bushings in the caliper. Slide the sleeves outward to install the inner protective caps.
9. Install the inner protective caps into the grooves of the bushings 20 and press the caps onto the seats of the caliper body
10. Fasten the protective caps 22 using the KM-404A tool.
Use only new protective caps.
11. Sink the guide bushings 20 inside the caliper
12. Screw in the air release valve.
13. Install a brake shoe with a lining wear sensor in the caliper (from the side.
Make sure that the pins and expansion springs are installed correctly.
4. INNER STAPLE BODY
22. INNER PROTECTIVE CAPS FOR GUIDE SLEEVES
Removing the piston protective cover
4. INNER STAPLE BODY
7. PISTON PROTECTIVE COVER
Dismantling the guide bush
A. WOODEN BAR
B. VICE
C. COMPRESSED AIR HOSE TIP
4. INNER STAPLE BODY
9. PISTON
24. EXTERNAL PART OF THE CASE OF THE BRACKET
4. INNER STAPLE BODY
24. EXTERNAL PART OF THE CASE OF THE BRACKET
Removing the piston seal
A. WOODEN (PLASTIC) TOOL
B. VICE
4. INNER CALIPER BODY
8. PISTON SEAL
And if there is a problem, then it needs to be addressed. What I decided to do, I began to look for and collect options that can make the caliper silent and, preferably, for a long time. And I have already found five ways to solve this problem, which I tested in practice. As they say, not only heard, but also saw and touched with his hands.There is one more option, but so far it is only in theory and of course it makes no sense to talk about it and mislead you. I hope you are interested in me? Then I ask you to start reading the article - Repairing the front caliper Lanos.
Yes, I almost forgot about the owners of Daewoo Nexia cars. They will also find this article useful, since it has long been no secret that the Uzbeks have replaced the original front brake caliper, which Nexia inherited from Kadett, with a newer and more efficient one from Lanos. And the people themselves are actively practicing replacing old calipers with more thoughtful ones (maybe not completely). For example, I changed the calipers almost immediately after buying a car and noticed the difference in the "tenacity" and responsiveness of the brakes immediately. But, along with the improvement, Nexia received the above problem as a gift. So, I ask you too, gentlemen Neksiyavoda, to read this material.
After not long deliberation, I decided to start right away with the most faithful, reliable, one hundred percent way to eliminate knocking front brake calipers... True, the method is expensive and with its own minus. But, all in order. This mega method consists in completely replacing native calipers with calipers from the Opel Vectra 1.6 - 1.8, brake disc diameter R13. Yes, this is the surest way to keep a caliper quiet and maintain brake performance. Now about the disadvantages of this solution. The first minus, the price of a pair of calipers, is quite high and I'm talking about a used version. The second disadvantage is the emergence of difficulties in the future with the replacement of brake pads under the Opel caliper. It is harder to find them on sale, and their cost is 40 percent higher, in contrast to their relatives. So, this method is not for everyone. There are no other problems, the caliper is becoming perfect, nothing needs to be altered.
Lanos front brake caliper pad guide
Grease for the guide pins of the Lanos caliper
Guide pin fixing bolts
Unscrew the brake pad guide Lanos Nexia
Lubricate the guide pins with special grease
Below, methods are described that are close in cost to each other. And the first of them I will describe the most effective in my opinion. It consists in repairing the calipers. To do this, you will have to buy repair guide pins and a special size drill. On the market, you can find first and second repair pins. These guide pins differ from the standard ones in diameter. Repair 10mm - standard 9.5mm. The drill that needs to be bought should be 10.1mm in size (photo 7,8,9). Then we carry out the same work as when replacing the guide (described above). Remove the guide bracket, clamp it in a vice and drill the holes (photo 10). We clean the holes from the shavings, install the anthers, grease the fingers and carry out the assembly in the reverse order. Nothing complicated.
Repair guide pins on the Lanos caliper
Guide pin size
Repair guide pins size
Repair of the front caliper Lanos Nexia
The next method was found by me on the Internet and of course I decided to try it in practice. And in this case, everything is even easier. We buy clamping spring brackets of the front caliper on the car (yes, again it is) Opel Vectra 1.6 - 1.8 (photo 11). And we install them on the caliper. We install, that is, we drill two holes, calculating their location in advance with the condition that the caliper presses the caliper well against the brake pad guide. In photo 12, you can clearly see that I did not succeed right away, only after the third pair of holes did the tension of the bracket suit me. The second side turned out better))). I can agree with the opinion that if the caliper is already badly broken, then these brackets will not do the weather. But, as an auxiliary, one might say pre-emptive option, it has a right to exist. That is, after installing a new guide pads or repair pins, Vectra brackets can also be installed on the caliper.Then the service life of the calipers will increase significantly.
Opel Vectra clamps on Lanos
How to install the clamping brackets on the Lanos caliper
There is one more way to solve the problem. It is somewhat similar to the one described above. But personally, I don't practice it. I only saw a couple of cars. The essence of this method is to install a spring that should tighten the caliper. And it (the way) works! And if so, then I could not keep silent about him))). Again, we take a drill, drill holes and one end of the spring clings to the rack, the other to the caliper. How it all looks in real life can be seen in photo 13. I think in this case the most difficult thing will be to choose a spring of a suitable length and tension force. Since I did not install these springs myself, I cannot say exactly where they can come from.
Installing the tension spring on the Lanos caliper
Usually calipers on Lanos begin to ring after 10 thousand run. We present a report on how to repair a brake caliper.
A grease for the calipers was bought (see photo) - aerosol grease, there are instructions for use on the can, and two pieces of 0.5 m each of a transparent gas-resistant hose (one with a diameter of 8 mm, the other 10 mm - it was just interesting which one would fit better. it turned out later - 8 fits a little better.
From the tools you need - a balloon wrench (remove-put the wheel), a jack, a 14-point wrench for removing the calipers, a rag, a screwdriver or something else to remove the old grease in the caliper, a knife / scissors for cutting the hose.
Unscrew the two bolts, remove the moving part of the caliper, remove the guides, carefully remove the anthers.
Remove old grease from guides, boot insides and calipers.
Carefully discern the guides from all sides, make sure there is no wear on the guides and comment - what the hell are you rattling about if there is no wear ....
Apply a couple of layers of grease to the guides (3 layers are applied in photo 5) and inside the caliper. Replace the boot, insert the guides.
Nothing complicated, just a couple of nuances - you should not apply a lot of grease to the guide itself - during assembly, almost all the grease will still remain inside the boot and some will be squeezed out. The lubricant must be applied to the inside of the caliper, after removing the old one.
The boot sits tightly in the caliper and on the guide (photo 2) and when the guide is pressed into the caliper, it swells - there is nowhere for air and grease to go. And also the lubricant after application for some time "gasses" - it seems that some kind of chemical is happening. reaction…
Carefully it is necessary to raise the boot on one side and press the guide in order to let out the air and excess grease. Do not press in completely - otherwise almost all the grease will be squeezed out of the boot.
Install and screw on the moving part of the brake caliper. Everything.
I cut the hose with a knife as shown in photo 6 and simply wound it on the springs - from the glass and how long 50 cm of the hose will last (in fact, it turns out a little more than one turn of winding). The edges of the hose were not secured with anything.
It took about an hour for everything.
After lubrication, I drove 6 thousand km - nothing rings or rattles.
At Batey on Lanos, the calipers began to ring at 30 thousand km - he did the same operation.
In the absence of the lubricant that I used, I think it is quite possible to get by with the good old lithol. By the way, it looks like the guides from the factory are lubricated with it, only the lithol itself is laid in a small amount. Therefore, the ringing begins ...
The lubricant I use is "Very Lube" -
“Special high temperature grease to prevent brake pads from seizing and seizing on the caliper rails. Provides precise operation of the entire caliper mechanism, complete adhesion of the brake pads and quick release of the brake disc at the end of the braking cycle. Increases the service life of the entire braking system of the vehicle, has a positive effect on the overall safety of movement and vehicle operation. Eliminates squeak and squeak when braking.The grease is efficient in the temperature range from -35 ° С to +900 ° С
Removing the inner protective caps
A. ZUBILO
B. VICE
4. INNER STAPLE HOUSING 22. INNER PROTECTIVE COVERS OF THE GUIDE BUSHES
Removing the piston protective cover
A. ZUBILO
4. INNER BODY BODY 7. PISTON PROTECTIVE COVER
Dismantling the guide bush
20. GUIDE BUSHING
21. BUSHING SEAL
Removing the piston
A. WOODEN BAR
B. VICE
C. COMPRESSED AIR HOSE TIP 4. INNER BRACKET HOUSING 9. PISTON
24. EXTERNAL PART OF THE CASE OF THE BRACKET
Dismantling the caliper
A. SOCKET WRENCH
4. INNER STAPLE BODY 24. EXTERNAL STAPLE BODY
Removing the piston seal
A. WOODEN (PLASTIC) TOOL B. VICE
4. INNER CALIPER BODY 8. PISTON SEAL
PERFORMANCE ORDER 1. Remove the brake caliper. 2. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. 3. Use a chisel to remove the inner protective caps of the guide bushings from the seats on the caliper body. 4. Remove the protective cover 7 of the piston from the bore of the caliper. 5. Slightly move the guide bushings 20 inside the caliper and remove the caps from
groove bushings.
6. Remove the protective cover 7 from the piston and from the caliper bore. 7. Slide the guide bushings 20 out of the bracket and remove the seals 21 s
using a wooden or plastic tool. 8. Press piston 9 out of the caliper cylinder using compressed air.
Warning
It is forbidden to hold the piston with your fingers when pressing it out of the cylinder using compressed air. This could result in serious injury. Insert a 15–20 mm thick solid wood block into the caliper window when removing the piston.
9. Unscrew the tie bolts and separate parts 4 and 24 of the caliper. Clamp the caliper in
grip.
10. Remove the piston seal 8 from the groove of the caliper cylinder using a suitable wooden or plastic tool. Forbidden to use
for this, metal tools that can damage the cylinder mirror
or groove.
11. Unscrew the air release valve.
Clear
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. Clean all parts with alcohol or fresh brake fluid. 2. Dry the parts with a jet of oil-free compressed air. 3. Blow out all openings in the bracket body and the air release valve.
Inspect
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. The piston and cylinder mirror for: - scratches;
- chipping;
- traces of corrosion.
2. Replace defective parts.
3. If any part is corroded, replace the caliper assembly.
Warning
Any processing of the cylinder mirror and piston associated with the removal of metal is prohibited.
Mounting the piston
A. WOODEN BAR
4. INNER BRACKET BODY 9. PISTON
Warning
Make sure the pins and expansion springs are correctly installed.
14. Reinstall the caliper.
Because of what it may be necessary to repair the Daewoo Nexia with your own hands? Due to a faulty fuel pump. To restore functionality, remove the fuel pump from the bracket, and also remove the filter and hose. Using a screwdriver, bend the bead on the side of the intake pipe and remove the cover.
It has a recess in which you need to place an additional metal plate, which you can make yourself from scrap materials. The cover is replaced in its original place. In this way, the motor shaft is machined under the front bushing, pressure goes into the gap. Additional support pushes the shaft down and the tightness is restored. If the fuel pump is not restored, then you can install the fuel pump of VAZ or GAZ cars.
When repairing with your own hands Daewoo Nexia, the brake master cylinder may be faulty. This is evidenced by an ineffective brake and a "soft" brake pedal. You can replace the cylinder, or you can buy a repair kit for the master brake cylinder and have it repaired. This option is more economical than the first one, but it also takes more time.
When repairing with your own hands Daewoo Nexia, when working with the engine, you should disconnect the negative wire of the battery in order to prevent short circuits. After removing the air cleaner, the intake pipes must be closed. Thus, foreign objects that can take the engine out of working condition will not get there.
You can install the ignition switch in this way. First, you need to remove the steering column, after removing the bolts that have self-cutting heads.
Video (click to play). |
Therefore, you need a hammer and chisel. The bolts are unscrewed, the steering column is removed from the car, the switch mounting bolt is unscrewed. The ignition switch can be removed. Next, you need to install the switch - everything is the same in reverse order.