DIY Chevrolet Lacetti Caliper Repair

The story will be from a third person. All the work was done by my friend Yegor, for which I respect and respect him.

Symptoms of a malfunctioning brake cylinder are heating of the wheel disc. The piston in the brake cylinder does not move and the pads compress the brake disc, as a result of which heating occurs.

We jack up the car and unscrew the wheel.

Using a 14 key, unscrew the 2 “finger” bolts.

We put the bolts aside so that they are not lost.

We knock out the support because the piston has soured and cannot return to its original position and open the pads.

We remove the brake pads.

We see a faulty brake cylinder with a seized piston.

We unscrew the rest.

We grip the brake hose with "pliers".

There are other options for how you can do this. We unscrew the brake hose.

Unscrewed bolt with a hole for the brake fluid.

Washer to be moved to the new caliper.

Fluid leaks slightly from the hose.

A new non-original caliper cost about 3000 rubles.

Here he is in the picture. There is a plug in the place where the washer and the hose with the bolt should be. We remove it.

We connect the brake hose to the new caliper, not forgetting the washer.

We press the brake pedal and check the piston stroke, after which we push it back.

We put the support and connect it with the "fingers".

Checking the thickness of the pads.

We insert a plate that prevents the pads from loosening.

We check how the wheel is spinning.

We pump the brakes, for this we unscrew the nut by 10, put on a special hose for the brake fluid (a hose from a 9 for washer is suitable) and lower it into a container with brake fluid and release the air by operating the brake pedal. In the photo, this nut is on an old caliper.

We put the wheel on and enjoy the work done.

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25.04.2017
... ... Watch the video Calipers Rattling while. I will write the article a little later, otherwise it’s too late today, and tomorrow I’ll get up early for work. If something is not clear - write in the comments, then I will know better what to pay more attention to.

... ... There was a time and decided to finish the article.
The caliper bracket on our machine is held on two guides. The same system is installed on most modern cars, but on these cars the designers provided holding springs for the caliper bracket so that when driving through irregularities on the road it does not rattle, shake and break the guides. Apparently, our designers were sure that what is needed in Russia is expensive - like a map. And these caliper holding springs, in principle, we do not need, and will only increase the weight of the car. In general, well done - as always.

... ... I removed the guides - there is no production. I stuffed special grease for the calipers - on our roads it was enough for a couple of days, and again they thundered. It looks like the Lacetti needs to be driven only along the Moscow Ring Road. And you do not need to smear - and will not break. But we don't have such roads, so I decided to think about what can be done in a simple and tasteful way. I read it on the Internet, they write that springs are on sale, but to install them, you need to drill the caliper itself, and insert the ends of the spring into these holes. Calipers rattle - this is not the main problem. The bracket itself is not light, and under its own weight from shaking it breaks the guides and their nests. And the caliper is not a cheap thing. In general, I sat, smoked, thought to my nose and decided to do this:

28.01.2018
I still go and everything is fine. Over the years, I have developed a habit - if I am driving along the highway and there is a stop, then I always check all the wheels for heating.This way problems can be detected in a timely manner. In general, I am satisfied and forgot what it is - rattling calipers.

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It seems to me that the load on the guides is increasing, and if someone has already begun to bite the cylinder, then it can also play a cruel joke. there is a big problem with our cars in terms of rear brake calipers. I myself recently got to such a repair. Bites on cylinders and pads do not squeeze out. I propose to come up with something with guides, according to how exactly the fork hangs in them

Guides and breaks from shaking, because we do not have retaining springs, like on other cars. And the best solution is a fixed caliper with two cylinders on either side.

I read a lot about this problem. I already run 270 thousand km. There is a tangible development of guides. But I never heard a knock. And there were never any complaints about the brakes. ?? Assembling Korea.

Failure of the caliper leads to the lack of normal functioning of the brake system on one of the wheels. The most common occurrence is piston seizure inside the cylinder. As a result, the pads either do not contact the disc during braking, or they always grip the disc regardless of the position of the brake pedal. This causes the vehicle to drift to the side, which can lead to an emergency. Therefore, if any problems with the caliper arise, urgent measures must be taken to eliminate them.

The original front right caliper Chevrolet Lacetti manufactured by General Motors has the article number 96549789. Its price is 2500-3000 rubles. Good analogs of the front right caliper are shown in the table below.

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Table - List of analogues of the Lacetti branded front right caliper.

The article number of the front left caliper is 96549788. Its cost is in the range of 2500-3000 rubles. Good counterparts of the original product from third-party manufacturers are shown in the table.

Table - List of analogues of the original front left Lacetti caliper.

The rear right original General Motors caliper has a catalog number 96800086. The price of branded products is about 6000-8000 rubles. For the best third party rear caliper alternatives, see the table below.

Table - List of analogues of the original rear right Lacetti caliper.

The left rear branded caliper for the Chevrolet Lacetti has a catalog number 96800085. The price for an original part is 6000-8000 rubles. Analogs from third-party manufacturers that allow repair of the rear left caliper are shown in the table below.

Table - A list of analogues of the original rear left Lacetti caliper.

In case of failure of the caliper, its replacement is not always necessary. In most cases, it is enough to purchase a special repair kit and the performance of the brake system will be fully restored. A standard repair kit may include the following:

• grease that is applied to the guides and piston;
• adjustment device;
• seals;
• caliper guides;
• adjustment bolt;
• anther;
• piston.

The original General Motors repair kit has the article number 93742635. The cost per set is in the range of 1000-1500 rubles. Third party manufacturers also make caliper repair kits. The best options are shown in the table below.

Table - List of analogues of the Lacetti front caliper repair kit.

Chevrolet Lacetti Replacement of protective covers and O-rings of the pistons of the front and rear wheels

We replace the protective cover of the piston if it is damaged - cracks, ruptures of rubber or loss of elasticity of the cover.
The O-ring is replaced if there are traces of brake fluid leakage in the brake mechanism.
The replacement of the cover and the O-ring is shown on the front wheel brake cylinder. The boot and the O-ring on the rear wheel brake cylinder are replaced in the same way.
Remove the front wheel.
Disconnect the lower tip of the brake hose from the caliper (see Replacing the front wheel brake hose).
Remove the brake pads (see Replacing the brake pads of the front wheels).

With a spanner wrench "14" we unscrew the upper bolt securing the caliper to the guide pin ...

We remove the piston from the caliper.
To remove the piston, you can blow compressed air from the tire pump through a hole in the caliper.

We remove the protective cover from the caliper.

Pry the O-ring with a screwdriver ...

… And remove the ring from the caliper.
Install a new O-ring. Insert the new protective cover into the groove of the caliper.
We apply brake fluid to the working surface of the sealing ring and the surface of the piston. To install the piston, we clamp the caliper in a vice with soft metal jaw pads. In order to put a protective cover on the piston, we connect the hose of the tire pump or compressor to the caliper bore.
We supply air to the cylinder and bring the bottom of the piston to the edge of the cover, centering it relative to the cover.

Under the influence of air pressure, the cover expands and is put on the piston, which is inserted into the cylinder.
In the absence of a pump, to put the cover on the piston, an assistant will be required, who must lift the cover (inserted into the caliper groove) by the edge and stretch it so that the piston can be inserted inside.
Putting on the cover, we center the piston ...

... and, pressing on it with a wooden block, we sink the piston into the caliper.
We assemble the brake mechanism in reverse order.
We pump the brake system hydraulic drive (see. Bleeding the brake system hydraulic drives).

Chevrolet Lacetti 5D RED ›Logbook› Began to wedge the brake cylinder piston. For several days I disassembled, looked, trying to find the reason, I thought they were hand brake pads, since the parking brake had been regulating a week before.

Chevrolet Lacetti Lacha ›Logbook› Brakes jammed. banderovec last online more than a month ago. I took off the caliper (I left the hose with the brake) and pressed the brake pedal 10 times so that the piston would come out of the boot.

The brake pads wedge do not come off. The rear brakes were jammed, I thought that the cylinders were bad, I installed new cylinders, they were not useful. Changing the front brake pads for the 2012 Chevrolet Lacetti. Earn money from your videos on.

He took off the wheel, pressed the piston with a screwdriver, releasing the pressure on the pads. Visit the EvGeND home page. But you can’t put it into it - it can flow from the temperature ... and God forbid, on the brake. Search and purchase of spare parts. Promising new items DIY repair Mitsubishi Outlander.

The car has recently become difficult to go and the roll has sharply decreased. I touched the wheels - the rear right was warming up. For several days I disassembled, looked, trying to find the cause, I thought they were hand brake pads, since the parking brake had been adjusted a week before. Then he accidentally touched the brake cylinder with a screwdriver, pressed it and lo and behold, the wheel began to rotate freely! When pressing the brake pedal, the cylinder again did not want to return to its place and held the wheel.

It rotated very tightly by hand. I began to read forums and sites on this issue. A lot has been written, but everything is confusing, and everyone is not confident in writing. In the end, we arrived at the service today and there they told me that if the cylinder wedges, then the caliper needs to be changed. Buy the caliper they say we will replace. They didn't even look. If you buy a support, I'll replace it myself in no time.

He took off the wheel, pressed the piston with a screwdriver, releasing the pressure on the pads. I pressed the brake pedal many times so that I had to squeeze out the piston for quite a long time and press the pedal hard.Looks like it stuck well.

When the piston came out almost to the end, then we managed to pull it out by hand. He took off the piston and boot. The outer rim is all rusted. Rust is visible on the inner elastic. The inside of the cylinder is clean, but the rim in front of the rubber band is all rusted. I cleaned it with a sandpaper and poured it with a VD-scrubber. The piston was covered in streaks of rust, which were very difficult to clean with a high pressure piston and a rag.

This is how the piston became after processing it with a VD-shkoy Removed the inner rubber band. The photo shows pieces of rust in the groove. The boot inside was also covered with a layer of rust. After he cleaned the rim of the cylinder from rust and washed it first with a high pressure drum and then with brake fluid, the piston began to easily enter the cylinder by hand. Having assembled the entire structure, he proceeded to pumping and replacing the brake fluid. It is not known when the brake fluid was last changed. To do this, every time after pumping the next wheel, I poured brake fluid into the tank.

We clean the fitting of the brake cylinder of the rear right wheel and the plane next to it from dirt. Dismantle the protective rubber cap from the bleed nipple. We lower the other end of the tube into the container. The assistant presses the brake pedal several times at your discretion until you see that the color of the fluid has become lighter, I did not see anything, or until you decide without looking into the container that the old fluid has leaked out.

We dismantle the vinyl tube from the fitting, put a protective rubber cap on the fitting. Next, we pump the brake cylinder of the rear left wheel. In the same way, we pump the cylinders of the front left and front right brake mechanisms in the prescribed sequence, monitoring the fluid level in the reservoir of the master brake cylinder. Pressing the brake pedal, we control the operation of the hydraulic drive and the absence of fluid leakage from the pumping fittings.

Somehow like this. I now have the same problem, I thought that the parking brake pads were wedged, cleaned, lubricated them, the problem remained. I sin on the piston, I think it's not worth ordering a new one, it's expensive, but try to clean it. Have you solved the rye problem? The main thing is that it does not repeat itself, so that water does not fall. Brakes are like brakes… everything is fine. But it was enough for a year.

The first wheel that I did, the other day I had to clean it up again. The problem I think is that the end of the cylinder with the piston is poorly closed and all the dirt and water from the road gets there. By the way, the boot is very difficult to put in place, in the groove of the cylinder. I put it on one, but did not bother with the others, there was no time - I put it on the piston and did not fill it into the cylinder. In the summer, as the time will be sorted out, at the same time I will do the prophylaxis. Can lithol be stuffed into the boot? I also have a bulkhead, I want to sort out the backside for prevention, but before I may have to replace the cylinders.