In detail: do-it-yourself caliper repair gas 3110 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
here the main thing is to use the necessary lubricants and there will be nothing to wedge
I used GTZ Toit's grease, in both cases, the febest gum, as I pulled them out, doubled
the piston itself is smeared with ATE 03.9902-0501.2, and the TRW PFG 110 guides, the first is certainly expensive, but nothing will swell from it, and the second costs about 200r but it is one of the best for guides
Got it, but I didn't use shit either #
I didn't say that you are using shit, I just suggested a tried and tested option
the piston itself is smeared with ATE 03.9902-0501.2, and the TRW PFG 110 guides, the first is certainly expensive, but nothing will swell from it, and the second costs about 200r but it is one of the best for guides
“I told two Estonians a joke about what kind of brakes Estonians are. Beaten. The next day…"
As usual with the Volga - we dismantle, defect, assess the condition ... "rejoice" ...
And so, for this we need spare parts:
1) Seinsa front caliper: D4197 - 2 pcs. (rubber bands are nothing, but they brought it as if they got it from a SPOT -
everything is in the sand, the box is crumpled.)
2) the guide pin of the caliper Hyundai Kia original: 581622F300, the bolt there is your 8 * 20 * 1 - 4 pcs.
3) Ate 03.9902-0501.2 silicone grease for the piston working area
4) grease for the MS-1600 guides (like a universal one, which I strongly doubt - the managers position it, that it is possible to smear the working part of the piston as well.
Applications: Disc brake caliper parts, gaskets and O-rings, spark plug tips, pipeline fittings, batteries, slide and rolling rails, electrical contacts, swimming pool equipment, car wipers, bushings and liners, motion controllers, food processing equipment.
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Video (click to play). |
Characteristic:
Operating temperature range: from -46 ° to +299 ° С
Color: Transparent white
Base oil: Synthetic
Thickener: Synthetic
Texture: Sticky
5) Anti-bump brackets for caliper 3110 105 3302: TRW: PFK397 Kit on both sides
for installation, you need to cut the caliper from the side of the brake disc and sharpen a little on the side of the pads.
6) front brake hose 3110-105: Herzog: HW6 6025 - 2 pieces
Having disassembled the caliper, I saw that the cylinder still looks like, it needs to be cleaned a little.
Therefore, I wrapped the work surface with masking tape so as not to spoil the mirror. I put the piston in the lathe and went through the sandpaper - yes, all the operations without fanaticism ...
The anthers are both torn, but they fulfilled their function.
Of course, the body of the calipers has worn out, so we clean it with the Bulgarian's wife, without damaging the grooves inside. The place under the piston was plugged with a rag.
we paint the whole thing, I used Kudo heat-resistant paint for the calipers, but better than CERTA
Lubricate with ATE paste the inner surface where the piston will be inserted, the grooves (pre-cleaned) for the oil seal and the boot, the inside of the boot, the working surface of the piston. Why smear the inner part where the piston will go, because it does not come into contact with the surface? Yes, because the entire brake is hydroscopic, it accumulates water over time, deposits may appear on the walls, which in turn will sooner or later fall under the oil seal and break the tightness, clog the channels.
And the brake is not a lubricant!
Next, insert the oil seal, pre-lubricated with ATE. We put the boot into the groove.
Then the hardest part - insert the piston! I read that many people use hooks. After 15 minutes of attempts, I called my wife for help - to push the boot apart, it was slippery in inexperienced hands. Together they mastered it. He blew the air out from under the boot, checked the tightness by sucking the piston back through the hole. Everything is good!
The holes for the rails are cleaned.Lubricate the inside of the guide boot and the guide itself with MS-1600 paste, also a little inside.
Checking the condition of the working surfaces of the brake disc
The condition of the working surfaces of the brake disc is checked without removing the disc from the car.
1. Clean the brake disc.
2. Measure the disc thickness with a vernier caliper. The minimum permissible disc thickness is 19 mm. If the disc thickness is less than acceptable, the disc must be replaced. If there are any marks, the disc can be removed and sanded, but taking into account that its final thickness is not less than the permissible one. It is recommended to replace the brake discs on both sides.
1. Remove the two mounting bolts, remove the complete brake caliper and hang it on a wire to the body, making sure that the brake hose is not twisted and does not experience excessive stress.
Install the brake disc in the reverse order of removal. Before installing, clean the mating surfaces of the wheel hub and brake disc. Tighten the two bolts securing the brake caliper to a torque of 32–39 N · m (3.2–3.9 kgf · m). After installation, press the brake pedal several times to set the piston to the working position.
1. Remove the bolt 1 securing the holder 2 of the brake hose tip. Unscrew the connecting bolt 3, disconnect the tip 4 of the brake hose from the caliper and plug the hole in the brake hose. Unscrew the two bolts 5 securing the bracket body to its base, while holding the guide pins 6 with a wrench, and remove the bracket body.
1. Remove the heat-insulating gasket from the piston, if it is intended to be installed as supplied.
2. Remove the protective cover 1 of the piston. Clamp the body of the bracket in a vice with soft metal jaws. Remove piston 2 from the cylinder by supplying compressed air through the brake hose fitting and holding the piston with your hand.
3. Remove the O-ring from the cylinder using a wooden spatula.
4. Unscrew the priming valve.
5. Flush the piston and cylinder with fresh brake fluid.
1. Inspect the working surfaces of the piston and cylinder. If there are traces of wear, corrosion, pits and nicks on the working surfaces of the piston and cylinder, replace the caliper body complete with the piston.
The O-ring and the piston protective cap must be replaced.
1. Lubricate the inner surface of the cylinder with new brake fluid.
2. Lubricate a new O-ring with new brake fluid and insert into the cylinder bore.
3. Lubricate the new protective boot with new brake fluid and insert it into the groove on the piston.
4. Insert the piston into the cylinder using your fingers, without using any tools, and using a screwdriver, carefully insert the outer edge of the protective cover into the cylinder bore.
5. Lubricate the pumping valve with fresh brake fluid and screw it into the caliper housing.
6. Install a heat-insulating gasket on the piston, if it is intended to be installed as supplied.
Install the bracket body in the reverse order of removal. At the same time, tighten the two bolts of the bracket body to a torque of 32–39 N · m (3.2–3.9 kgf · m), while holding the guide pin with a wrench. It is imperative to replace the brass O-rings at the brake hose end. After installation, bleed the repaired brake.
Brief background:
January 2012 - buying a car (3110, 1997).
May 2012 - replacement of the right support entirely (drip, there was money, time to figure out why there is no drip).
June 2012 - replacement of all rear pads
October 2012 - passing MOT. Brakes 5+.
March 2013 (thaw, a lot of puddles) - when braking, it began to throw to the left. I thought that the water got in, braked on dry, began to slow down evenly.
April 2013 - More frequent steering to the left when braking.
The first thought is to pump the brakes, but then I thought that the year had passed, the brakes were all in place,
He jacked the wheels one by one and twisted his hand. All except the front left rotate easily and rotate further by inertia.The front left rotates by hand, but stops immediately. I forgot to turn the front right one and press the brake (check the performance), for now we will assume that it is working. I'll go check it out the other day. On the front left, I threw back the caliper (dry) pressed the piston from under the cuff, a little brake leaked out (it seems like a little allowed). He put the caliper back on, hit the brake, threw it back again, moved the cylinder, again a little leaked out. It doesn't seem to have soured. I put everything in place, drove a little, it seems to slow down normally. I took out the old right caliper, disassembled it (practice). On one side there is a decent scuff and the polished surface is scratched. Everything else is mirrored. (see photo)
If, in the process of checking the right side, you find out that it is working, you need to do something with the left.
Option one is to replace the caliper. Expensive and in the repair budget for this spring, this malfunction was not included.
The second option is to pump everything (replace the liquid). This was planned, since although the previous owner followed the car, I think this procedure is rarely done by anyone, see the year of manufacture. But at the same time, wait for this jamb to come out again or not.
Option three. Disassemble the caliper and defect (I have already put the car in the garage so that it would be convenient to crawl to this unit). Accordingly, the replacement of rubber bands, possibly a piston.
Attention to the question. The question is for those who are alone or with the help of someone, as well as those who have acquaintances, brother, matchmaker, friend, etc. changed the rubber bands, the piston. What is the result after replacement (everything works and does not flow, had to be changed again, etc.). It's just that when the assembly is assembled, it is somehow more reliable, as a rule, everything is adjusted in size. But not always separately, then the dimensions are not the same, then the tolerances.
The front wheel brakes are disc brakes, with a single-piston floating caliper (when braking, the piston presses the inner pad to the disc, and the caliper, moving in the opposite direction, presses the outer one).
The minimum allowable front brake pad thickness when worn is 3 mm. Discs - ventilated, mounted on hubs and attached to them with wheel bolts.
The minimum allowable disc thickness during wear is 19 mm. The bracket is attached with two bolts to the steering knuckle. The brake cylinder is made in the caliper housing; from the outside to protect it from dirt, it is covered with a rubber boot (boot).
There is a groove inside the cylinder into which an O-ring (cuff) is inserted.
When, during braking, the piston is extended from the cylinder, this ring twists slightly and after the end of braking it tends to return the piston to its original position.
This maintains a constant minimum clearance between the discs and the brake pads. The cylinder has a pumping valve.
The front brake device is shown in Figure 1
Replacing the brake pads
1. Apply the parking brake to the vehicle.
2. Install support blocks under the rear wheels.
3. Loosen the front wheel bolts.
4. Lift and support the front of the vehicle.
6. Rinse the brake with warm water and dry. The use of gasoline, diesel fuel or any other mineral solvents for cleaning brakes is not permitted.
7. Check the brake pad wear through the hole in the caliper housing. If the thickness of the friction pads is less than 3 mm, the pads must be replaced on both sides of the vehicle.
8. Unscrew the lower bolt securing the bracket body while holding the guide pin with a wrench.
9. Rotate the bracket body up around the axis of the upper pin.
Mark the brake pads if the old pads will be installed again, since it is unacceptable to replace the inner and outer pads with each other, as well as between the left and right wheels. This can lead to uneven braking.
11. Clean the brake parts from dirt and rust, especially the brake pads seats. The use of gasoline, diesel fuel or any other mineral solvents for cleaning brakes is not permitted.
12.If new brake pads are installed, the piston must be carefully pressed into the cylinder. When doing this, make sure that the piston does not tilt.
There are 2 braking mechanisms on the Gazelle - drum and disc brakes. The latter are the most promising due to many advantages. But there is a very important detail in the overall design - this is the brake caliper. It is a disc that rotates.
It looks like a support for a Gazelle
The brake caliper on the Gazelle is a unit that clamps the brake pads to the discs when a person presses the pedal and the car starts to brake. Only this element moves in the entire braking system. This part is installed only on the disc type of brakes. The drum system, on the other hand, works very differently.
The caliper is an extremely important component. It is recommended to consider it together with the pads, since they are the ones that carry the main load in the entire braking system. 90% of breakdowns in the front brakes depend on the calipers.
Mounted caliper on brake disc
The brake caliper is a simple design that is not complex. It is used in almost all passenger cars. The design will be similar everywhere, but the changes themselves in different models will be at a minimum. The function is based on hydraulic pressure.
After a person presses the brake pedal, a certain piston in the main cylinder of the brake system begins to press on the brake fluid. Then it goes through certain hoses and channels to the brake caliper.
Technical compound calipers for Gazelle
It contains a piston that moves forward under pressure. On one side of it there is one block that pushes the disc to one side. The second block is simply fixed to the caliper and does not move. As a result, both pads clamp the disc: first they rub against the part, and then completely stop its movement.
This disc is interconnected with the wheel of the vehicle, so that the speed of the car gradually decreases. With such contact, the pads, if they are made poorly, begin to creak, since they cannot withstand the high temperature (heating occurs due to friction).
It looks like the front brake mechanism on the Gazelle
The caliper can be of a simple design or large. In the second case, it includes brake pads, which are quite long and wide. This is the shape used in modern vehicles.
If the functioning of the entire unit in the brake system is impaired, then uneven wear of the pads is observed. To check the operation of the system, it will be enough just to pull them out and look. If the wear is practically the same (the error can be up to 10%), then the unit is working correctly. If the thickness is greater at the back than at the front, then the entire caliper is not functioning properly.
Worn caliper appearance
You need to look at the disk. Its wear should also be uniform. If this is not the case, and the deviations are pronounced (for example, on the outside more than on the inside), then it is necessary to urgently replace the caliper, or to repair this structure. You can't wait for the caliper to jam. Uneven wear indicates that the pistons are pressing too hard on one pad, and the other is simply not participating in the work.
We advise you to see: how to repair the caliper.
There are several main reasons that can cause such violations. This applies to guides and pistons. They either coke or turn sour. This can happen for the following reasons:
- Poor service, non-compliance with the rules. Many garage craftsmen pour graphite grease or lithol into the guides. This leads to the fact that the anthers of these parts swell, and later begin to sour.
- Anther bursting. This can cause water to enter the guides. This leads to further corrosion and acidification of the part.If the boot is ruptured, then the piston may also suffer, which also begins to malfunction due to moisture ingress.
- Use of low-quality brake fluid. It is distinguished by its hydroscopic properties. Because of this, after a while, water begins to collect in it, and in large quantities. If you do not change the brake fluid, then it will simply corrode the entire piston inside, which also provokes the acidification process.
Before starting repair work, you first need to determine what exactly broke, and what caused it.
Repair is required on pistons and guides. As for the latter, they are unusual bolts. They must be screwed directly into the special lugs on the body. If corrosion appears (even in the form of small foci), then the bolts cannot be restored, they just need to be removed and replaced with new ones.
This is how the repair of the caliper guides looks like
To do this, unscrew the guide from the mount (often called an eyelet) and insert a new one. The replacement process is very simple, so everyone can handle the task. After such work, it is imperative to use only a high-quality and correct lubricant (it is included in the kit). It is very important not to forget about the anthers, which must also be worn. After that, you need to check if they are hermetically installed. Cracks, breakouts and other defects must not be left.
We recommend seeing: how to repair a caliper and brake pads on a gazelle.
As for the repair work in relation to the pistons, this will be somewhat more difficult, since these parts are located inside the caliper itself. There are cases when this part inside the body simply wedges and stops moving. In such a situation, there are 2 options for action:
- Revive the caliper itself. Transfer it to silicone grease or gasoline. After that, carefully remove the piston from the entire structure.
- Buy a new brake caliper. In some cases it jams very hard. As a result, all that remains is to break the case, so the repair in this case is definitely not able to correct the situation.
Watch the video: how to replace the anthers and cuffs on the caliper.
If the pistons are still moving, then the first difficulty is to pull them out of the entire structure. For this, it is recommended to use compressed air at the workshop. It is directed into the hole, which is intended specifically for the brake fluid. As a result, the piston itself will simply fly out. If the repair work is carried out at home (for example, in the garage), then you need to carefully squeeze out this part using the brake fluid, but do not disconnect the elements from the entire structure. Do not worry that after this the brake fluid will start to leak. It will have to be changed anyway upon completion of the repair work.
Brakes are a very important element of any car, because your safety depends on their performance. The main load on any car is borne by the front part, as we know there disc brakes. After a long mileage, already from 60,000 kilometers and more, the braking efficiency begins to fall, this may be due to improper operation of the brake caliper, sometimes you can even catch a "wedge". However, the device is quite simple and can be repaired by hand. I think this article will be useful to you, at the end there will be a detailed video ...
CONTENTS OF THE ARTICLE
To begin with, I will say that the front wheel can simply jam, by analogy as in this article, it just stops spinning! Guys, this is very dangerous, at speed it can lead to an accident. Therefore, the caliper must be diagnosed correctly and on time. However, to begin with, a little about the structure.
There will be a separate article about the caliper, but now I want to show on my "fingers" what moving parts there are that suffer in the first place. This is a fairly simple device, it has only two working elements - guides and pistons.
They are the culprits of the whole "celebration", if they fail, then the work is disrupted.However, the structure of the piston is now quite strong, physical leakage, when you broke, say, the brake hose, is now a rare phenomenon. And therefore the caliper breaks down due to acidification of the pistons and guides, but about that a little lower.
If the operation of this unit is disrupted, then it turns out that there is an uneven wear of the brake pads. You just need to pull them out and look at them, if they work correctly, they should have approximately the same wear (plus or minus 10%). If the rear, for example, is thicker than the front, it turns out that the caliper is not working properly! The brake disc is also worth looking at - wear should be even. If the wear of the pads is uneven, and it is pronounced, for example, the outer one is much more worn out than the inner one, you urgently need to either change or repair the caliper and not wait until it jam.
Such uneven wear speaks only of the rim - the pistons strongly press on one pad (there is maximum wear), and the second does not seem to be involved at all.
The reasons, as always, are commonplace, they are "souring" or "coking" of the brake pistons or guides. This can happen both due to improper maintenance and due to a banal breakdown.
1) Improper service. Often, LITOL or graphite grease is stuffed on the guides in the garages of folk craftsmen, which leads to the swelling of the anther of the guide, and later it simply "sours".
2) This is a banal anther breakthrough. Moisture begins to flow onto the guide, which sooner or later will corrode it and lead to acidification.
3) The next reason lies in the piston itself. Its body can also suffer from a ruptured anther, water gets in.
4) Either from poor quality brake fluid. It is hydroscopic, and therefore, over time, a lot of water accumulates in it, if it is not replaced, it begins to corrode the piston from the inside, which also leads to acidification.
Well, now let's go directly to the repair of the caliper. Let's start with the simplest.
Often, the guides are a kind of bolts that are screwed into special lugs of the body. If they show foci of corrosion that can no longer be removed, then they just need to be replaced.
We unscrew it from the mount (ear) and insert a new guide, a very simple replacement. After that, you need to use only the correct lubricant (usually comes in the kit), and it is also important not to forget to put on the anthers, we immediately check them for leaks, there should be no breaks and cracks. Now I propose to move on to the pistons.
Here the task is more difficult, because they are located inside the caliper body and repair is not so easy. I want to note right away - there are times when the piston gets wedged in the body, and it does not move at all! There can be two actions here:
1) Try to revive this caliper, put it "soak", say, in gasoline or silicone grease. Then carefully try to pull the piston out of the housing.
2) Buy a corny new caliper. Sometimes it jams very firmly, breaking the case; repairs will not help here.
If the pistons are still running, the first difficulty concerns pulling them out of the body. To do this, the service station uses compressed air, which is fed into the brake fluid hole. Thus, the piston simply flies out, if you are doing repairs in the garage, then you need to "squeeze out" with the help of brake fluid, simply without disconnecting them from the general system. Do not worry that the "brake" will leak, you still need to change it after repair.
Now we examine the case. If there are traces of bending, rust, or mechanical damage, then it definitely needs to be changed, the repair will not be justified here. To do this, we purchase a repair kit, with rubber seals and new pistons, it is important to replace that it must have a special lubricant, usually for both the guides and pistons! IT IS IMPORTANT!
Without it, there will be no point in repairing, because how can you break new seals.
Now I will list the points:
1) We take out the old rubber bands and seals.
3) We clean the case, both outside and inside.
4) Then, applying a new lubricant, we process all the attachment points.
5) Install the gum seals
6) Install the pistons, also pre-lubricated.
After these manipulations, we collect the caliper. The repair is finished, it can be installed on the car. Do not forget to change the brake fluid and then bleed the system.
Now I want to provide you with a detailed repair video, described in more detail.
That's all, I think my article was useful to you, put the likes in the social. networks!
Nizhny Novgorod Volgovodov Club
catalog numbers
3302-35001136 - right
3302-35001137 - left
visually, the difference is only in the location of the breather i.e. it should be on top.
I need to replace the right one, but judging by the picture, they sold the left one (the seller in the gear told Lenin that he didn’t know which one it was)
the question is, can I change or can I put the one that is?
nonickname wrote: visually the difference is only in the location of the breather i.e. it should be on top.
I need to replace the right one, but judging by the picture, they sold the left one (the seller in the gear told Lenin that he didn’t know which one it was)
the question is, can I change or can I put the one that is?
sashak3110 the hole for the hose is made so that there is no difference
In general, I will describe the situation: I turned around, did not calculate that it would push it forward a little in the snow, and with an inverted right wheel ran into the curb, after which it flowed from the right support.
today the guys at work looked at the lift, tightened the pipe fitting and said to stomp otsedova 
it turned out that when the wheel is completely turned to the left, with the full suspension travel upwards (to the bump stop), the caliper fitting hits the angle of the spring bell 
in my case, the fitting simply unscrewed by half a turn.
ps and pumping, probably, could be in the removed state
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porshe, I don’t remember the sequence, I remember the hook made of thin copper wire folded in half helped. You hook it by the collar and start it up.
Does the piston have to be inserted or after you insert the boot, the piston is inserted?
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shura 60 14 dec 2010
Who went through the front brake caliper on the GAZelle, I can not install the boot, can someone tell me how to install the boot and in what sequence do you need to change the repair kit, what follows? What tool is needed, do you need special mandrels to install the dust cover?
From the beginning, put on a boot on the lower edge of the piston, on the very edge of the piston, do not lubricate with anything only the cylinder inside the brake,
then you stretch the boot a little and then lower it straight into the cylinder so that at first the edges of the boot enter and gently push the piston, controlling that the boot fits into place.
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I first insert the boot into the cylinder, then stretch the boot to the diameter of the piston and insert the piston. They stretch because it is better to do it together, once I suffered for 2 hours until a neighbor in the garage came, they shoved him together in 5 minutes.
Thanks for the advice. We also did the same together, but in order to stretch the boot, we made a mandrel from a plastic bell of a fire extinguisher. I first insert the boot into the cylinder, then put it on the mandrel and insert the piston inside. With the mandrel, it’s good that you can see how the boot is up.
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tolmachev 15 dec 2010
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Burchenok 02 Mar 2011
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Anyway, can the “boot” of the piston be changed without removing the piston? He's in the support, he sits all outside. It seems the topic is confused with the piston seal. Or am I wrong?
The cuff is deeper and the lower part of the boot fits into a groove inside the caliper above the cuff, hugging the piston. The upper part of the boot sits on the piston. To replace the boot, the piston will have to be removed. by pulling off the boot, you just cut off its bottom edge, and how will you put a new one in place?
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I first insert the boot into the cylinder, then stretch the boot to the diameter of the piston and insert the piston. They stretch because it is better to do it together, once I suffered for 2 hours until a neighbor in the garage came, they shoved him together in 5 minutes.
Likewise.
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Hello everyone, the problem is that the front caliper is unscrewing all the time, maybe someone had such a problem, otherwise he was tired of buying new guides.
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GAZ2752Sobol 24 Mar 2012
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Mycoyan 24 Mar 2012
Guys, what kind of bedakura could happen to the caliper, in general, I was engaged in such a misfortune replacing the rubber spacers above the springs with reinforced ones, well, for one thing I changed the caliper fingers, now I constantly have noise from under the left caliper pads, it feels like the pad is constantly rubbing against The disc does not seem to beat off, but the disc does not bite, and when I brake it seems that the disc is gnawing at the block, well, or vice versa, let's say a kind of crunch. What to do.
Something is crooked, and this is, a hike, a support.
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GAZ2752Sobol 24 Mar 2012
Hello everyone, the problem is that the front caliper is unscrewing all the time, maybe someone had such a problem, otherwise he was tired of buying new guides.
And what to do if the upper stressing finger breaks with some frequency, and if you tighten it with a replacement, then after a few days the second one also breaks
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I constantly have noise from under the left caliper pads, it feels like the pad is constantly rubbing against the disc, as if it doesn’t seem to beat off, but the disc doesn’t bite, and when I brake it seems that the disc is gnawing the pad well, or vice versa, let's say a kind of crunching What to do?
maybe, as always, I'll say stupidity, but I myself once parked the block with the back side to the disc
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GAZ2752Sobol 24 Mar 2012
Something is crooked, and this is, a hike, a support.
Right now, of course, I can't say, but in theory, if the caliper was crooked, then I would not be able to tighten the bolts in my fingers
Guys, but the caliper itself cannot troit well, in the sense of a brake cylinder
maybe I'll say stupidity as always, but I myself once parked the block with the back side to the disk https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3317/forum/public/s.
It seems that I was already standing right and looked through the wheel
The front braking mechanism is shown in fig. 6.2.
6.30. Apply the parking brake to the vehicle.
6.31. Install support blocks under the rear wheels.
6.32. Loosen the front wheel bolts.
6.33. Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
6.35. Rinse the brake with warm water and dry. The use of gasoline, diesel fuel or any other mineral solvents for cleaning brakes is not permitted.
6.36. Check brake pad wear through the hole in the caliper housing. If the thickness of the friction pads is less than 3 mm, the pads must be replaced on both sides of the vehicle.
6.37. Unscrew the lower bolt securing the bracket body while holding the guide pin with a wrench.
6.38. Rotate the bracket body upward around the axis of the upper pin.
6.39. Mark the brake pads if the old pads will be installed again, since it is unacceptable to replace the inner and outer pads with each other, as well as between the left and right wheels. This can lead to uneven braking. Remove the brake pads.
6.40. Remove dirt and rust from brake parts, especially brake pad seats. The use of gasoline, diesel fuel or any other mineral solvents for cleaning brakes is not permitted.
6.41. If new brake pads are installed, the piston must be carefully pressed into the cylinder. When doing this, make sure that the piston does not tilt.
6.42. Place the brake pads on the base of the caliper, making sure that the pressure springs are vertically upward and parallel to the top edge of the brake pads. The old pads are installed in accordance with the previously made markings.
6.43. Lower the bracket body.
6.44.Tighten the lower mounting bolt to a torque of 32–39 N · m (3.2–3.9 kgf · m), while holding the guide pin with a wrench.
6.45. Press the brake pedal several times to set the piston to the working position.
6.46. Install the front wheel and tighten the mounting bolts.
6.47. Lower the car to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts evenly diagonally to a torque of 100–120 N · m (10.0–12.0 kgf · m).
6.48. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and top up if necessary.
Checking the condition of the working surfaces of the brake disc
The condition of the working surfaces of the brake disc is checked without removing the disc from the car.
6.49. Perform steps 6.30–6.34.
6.50. Clean the brake disc.
6.51. Measure the disc thickness with a vernier caliper. The minimum permissible disc thickness is 19 mm. If the disc thickness is less than acceptable, the disc must be replaced. If there are any marks, the disc can be removed and sanded, but taking into account that its final thickness is not less than the permissible one. It is recommended to replace the brake discs on both sides.
6.52. Perform steps 6.30–6.34.
6.53. Unscrew the two mounting bolts, remove the complete brake caliper and hang it on a wire from the body, making sure that the brake hose is not twisted and does not experience excessive stress.
Install the brake disc in the reverse order of removal. Before installing, clean the mating surfaces of the wheel hub and brake disc. Tighten the two bolts securing the brake caliper to a torque of 32–39 N · m (3.2–3.9 kgf · m). After installation, press the brake pedal several times to set the piston to the working position.
6.55. Perform steps 6.30–6.34.
6.56. Remove bolt 1 securing bracket 2 for brake hose tip. Unscrew the connecting bolt 3, disconnect the tip 4 of the brake hose from the caliper and plug the hole in the brake hose. Unscrew the two bolts 5 securing the bracket body to its base, while holding the guide pins 6 with a wrench, and remove the bracket body.
6.57. Remove the heat-insulating gasket from the piston if it is intended to be installed as supplied.
6.58. Remove protective cover 1 for piston. Clamp the body of the bracket in a vice with soft metal jaws. Remove piston 2 from the cylinder by supplying compressed air through the brake hose fitting and holding the piston with your hand.
6.59. Remove the O-ring from the cylinder using a wooden spatula. The use of metal objects is not recommended, as this can damage the cylinder bore under the O-ring.
6.60. Unscrew the priming valve.
6.61. Flush the piston and cylinder with fresh brake fluid.
Inspection and troubleshooting of parts of the bracket and piston body
6.62. Inspect the working surfaces of the piston and cylinder. If there are traces of wear, corrosion, pits and nicks on the working surfaces of the piston and cylinder, replace the caliper body complete with the piston.
The O-ring and the piston protective cap must be replaced.
6.63. Lubricate the inner surface of the cylinder with new brake fluid.
6.64. Lubricate a new O-ring with new brake fluid and insert into the cylinder bore.
6.65. Lubricate a new protective boot with new brake fluid and insert it into the groove on the piston.
6.66. Insert the piston into the cylinder with your fingers, without using any tools, and using a screwdriver, carefully insert the outer edge of the protective cover into the cylinder bore.
6.67. Lubricate the bleed valve with fresh brake fluid and screw it into the caliper housing.
6.68. Install a heat-insulating gasket on the piston, if it is intended to be installed as supplied.
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Install the bracket body in the reverse order of removal. At the same time, tighten the two bolts of the bracket body to a torque of 32–39 N · m (3.2–3.9 kgf · m), while holding the guide pin with a wrench. It is imperative to replace the brass O-rings at the brake hose end. After installation, bleed the repaired brake (see 6.136–6.143).
