Why the calipers wedge and the brakes get warm, and why it is impossible to lubricate
VIDEO
The article will discuss how the brake caliper works and how to perform caliper repair do it yourself at home.
When the driver presses the brake pedal, the pads are pressed against the discs and thus the car stops. But unfortunately, they have not yet come up with mechanisms that could retract the brake pads to their original position. They just stop pressing tightly against the discs.Often, after long-term operation, the brake mechanism acquires some malfunctions, which significantly affects the rapid or uneven wear of brake pads and discs, increased noise and an unpleasant odor. The pads overheat and lose their grip at the same time. In short, the vehicle's braking system becomes ineffective.
In fact, there are not so many reasons why such malfunctions are possible. These are either damaged guides along which the caliper moves, or dirt on the working surface that interferes with the free movement of the pads.
Well, or the caliper itself. The last option will be discussed in this material:
-Small amendment: there is still a part in the caliper that contributes to the return movement of the piston after the loss of pressure - this is the cuff. On the one hand, it provides tightness, on the other, it is a kind of spring. Square in cross-section, when the piston moves, it deforms, and then tends to take the form of rest, along the way slightly recessed the piston into the body.
Over time, the elasticity of the cuff is lost, the pads remain pressed against the discs, increased friction, overheating and all other delights. This is not always obvious. How can you troubleshoot?
First of all, the suspended wheel should spin freely, even immediately after pressing and releasing the brake pedal.
Brake discs must not show signs of overheating
outer and inner pads should not have a difference in thickness
brake caliper piston should be easily recessed into the housing.
If there is cause for concern, we start looking for a problem. Most often it occurs due to a damaged anther.
but even if outwardly intact, look under it
the piston surface must be perfectly flat, without any traces of rust or dirt.
VAG provides a repair kit consisting of rubber bands, there are also a bunch of analogues from third-party manufacturers
but there is no piston on sale. However, this is not a problem at all, you can safely use non-original pistons available on the free sale for cars of previous generations.
And now about the repair procedure itself:
-jump the car and unscrew the wheel, turn the steering wheel to the extreme position
-remove the retaining spring
- thoroughly clean the surface near the brake hose mount
- rinse with some kind of cleaner, blow with air
-in order not to lose the brake fluid level, we pinch the brake hose
- unscrew the hollow bolt securing the hose,
- so that the dirt does not get inside, and the liquid does not flood everything around, put a simple bolt with a thread 10 * 1.5 into the hole
-remove the protective caps on the guides
-Unscrew the guides with a 7 mm hexagon.
-it is necessary to slightly drown the piston, for that, using a thick screwdriver, we move the body away from the disk
-remove the caliper, helping ourselves with a screwdriver (screwdrivers)
- one block can remain in the bracket, one is fixed with a spring to the caliper
—stopping support in hand. Remove the cover with a flat screwdriver
- miracles, but even with external well-being, moisture could be inside
-the piston can be removed from the body in three ways:
- without still disconnecting the caliper from the hose, remove it from the disc, and press the brake pedal until the piston falls out. And immediately pinch the hose.
- squeeze the body in a vice, and pull the piston with large "crocodiles", simultaneously making circular movements
- but the easiest way is to remove it with air. However, do not forget to provide support for the safety of your own body parts.
- having drained the remaining brake fluid, remove the old cuff
- it is necessary to thoroughly clean the seating surface of the protective cover
-and also grooves for the cuff
-Before reassembly, it is necessary to flush again (ELSA recommends alcohol, but not inside) and blow with air.
- with clean (!) hands we put a new cuff
-Slightly lubricate it with fresh brake fluid
-a bit t.spill on the piston surface (the same ELSA provides a special paste for this)
- we put the piston in the body strictly vertically, and slightly shaking it, with the effort of our fingers, we press it
-Drowning almost to the middle, put on a protective cover
- making sure that the elastic is not jammed anywhere, press the cover onto the case. A wire ring is welded into it, a special mandrel is provided for an even fit by VAG
-but you can do without it, the main thing is uniform effort
- drown the piston completely, and then push it out with the help of air, and make sure that the boot is flat, not twisted or torn anywhere
- re-sink the piston completely, and you can start assembling. However, since we have come to the repair and maintenance of brakes, everything must be done correctly. So - we unscrew the caliper brackets
-and thoroughly clean all surfaces on which the pads move
-make sure that the thread into which the guides are screwed is not damaged
* weak point on VW of the latest generation. Often, when unscrewing the guide, dirt and rust formed on the protruding part pull out the threads behind them.
-screw the bracket into place (before reuse, clean the bolts and tighten them with a torque of 190Nm ),
put the block on and make sure that it does not get stuck anywhere
-clean the guides from dirt. If there are traces of rust, it is better to replace them altogether.
-insert the inner block into the piston with a spring, put the caliper on the bracket, bait the guides with your fingers (!)
be sure to make sure that the bolt goes along the thread, and only then tighten (30 Nm)
-we put on the caps, so as not to forget later, insert the spring
-the brake hose is attached to brake caliper hollow bolt, and sealed with two rings.
- we can safely call them disposable.
And they are removed only with the help of a tool
-but at the same time it is not possible to find them in ETKA as a separate part. You can safely put rings from a similar assembly used in domestic cars. Unless, before installing, slightly move back and forth on a fine skin
- Before assembly, blow out the fitting
-and clean the mating plane on the hose
-Unscrew the bleed fitting and release the brake hose
- usually, after such work, there is no need to pump the circuit, it is enough to wait until the liquid flows from the fitting, evenly and without bubbles
-for ecology lovers, you can hang a bottle and control the air through a transparent hose
- tighten the shooter (30Nm), get behind the wheel and reduce the pads with a few strokes of the pedal.
-wash off the remaining brake fluid and others and traces of activity
- especially pay attention to the CV joint boot, ball joint and steering tip covers
If these are not observed, we fasten the wheel, lower the jack. Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Top up if necessary.
Make a test drive. If the pedal fails when pressed for the first time, and after a couple of strokes it becomes higher, repeat the procedure for removing air.
There is also a possibility that due to the different elasticity of the cuffs in the old and worn caliper there will be a difference in the speed of the brakes. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out the bulkhead on both sides at once.
Well, now you can rejoice in the serviceable brakes. repair of front and rear brake caliper
Yes, I almost forgot about the owners Daewoo Nexia cars ... They will also find this article useful, since it has long been no secret that the Uzbeks have replaced the original front brake caliper , inherited by Nexia from Cadet, newer and more efficient from Lanos. And the people themselves are actively practicing replacing old calipers with more thoughtful ones (maybe not completely). For example, I changed the calipers almost immediately after buying a car and noticed the difference in the “tenacity” and responsiveness of the brakes immediately. But, along with the improvement, Nexia received the above problem as a gift.So, I ask you too, gentlemen Neksiyavoda, to read this material.
After not long deliberation, I decided to start right away with the most faithful, reliable, one hundred percent ways to eliminate knock-ringing of front brake calipers ... True, the method is expensive and with its own minus. But, all in order. This mega the method consists in completely replacing native calipers with calipers from the Opel Vectra 1.6 - 1.8, brake disc diameter R13 ... Yes, this is the surest way to keep a caliper quiet and maintain brake performance. Now about the disadvantages of this solution. The first minus, the price of a pair of calipers, is quite high and I'm talking about a used version. The second disadvantage is the emergence of difficulties in the future with the replacement of brake pads under the Opel caliper. It is harder to find them on sale, and their cost is 40 percent higher, in contrast to their relatives. So, this method is not for everyone. There are no other problems, the caliper is becoming perfect, nothing needs to be altered.
Below, methods are described that are close in cost to each other. And the first of them I will describe the most effective in my opinion. It consists in the repair of calipers ... To do this, you will have to buy repair guide pins and special size drill ... On the market, I mean the Losk car market, you can find repair pins for the first and second repairs. These guide pins differ from the standard ones in diameter. Repair 10mm - standard 9.5mm. The drill that needs to be bought should be 10.1mm in size (photo 7,8,9). Then we carry out the same work as when replacing the guide (described above). Remove the guide bracket, clamp it in a vice and drill the holes (photo 10). We clean the holes from the shavings, install the anthers, grease the fingers and carry out the assembly in the reverse order. Nothing complicated.
The next method was found by me on the Internet and of course I decided to try it in practice. And in this case, everything is even easier. We buy clamping spring brackets of the front caliper on the car (yes, again it is) Opel Vectra (Opel Vectra) 1.6 - 1.8 (photo 11). And we install them on the caliper. We install, that is, we drill two holes, calculating their location in advance with the condition that the caliper presses the caliper well against the brake pad guide. In photo 12, you can clearly see that I did not succeed right away, only after the third pair of holes did the tension of the bracket suit me. The second side turned out better))). I can agree with the opinion that if the caliper is already badly broken, then these brackets will not do the weather. But, as an auxiliary, one might say pre-emptive option, it has a right to exist. That is, after installing a new guide pads or repair pins, Vectra brackets can also be installed on the caliper. Then the service life of the calipers will increase significantly.
There is one more way to solve the problem. It is somewhat similar to the one described above. But personally, I don't practice it. I only saw a couple of cars. The essence of this method is to install a spring that should tighten the caliper. And it (the way) works! And if so, then I could not keep silent about him))). Again, we take a drill, drill holes and one end of the spring clings to the rack, the other to the caliper. How it all looks in real life can be seen in photo 13. I think in this case the most difficult thing will be to choose a spring of a suitable length and tension force. Since I did not install these springs myself, I cannot say exactly where they can come from.
I am making a small addition to the material of the article, which concerns the question - How to lubricate the brake caliper guide pins? And as the automotive industry is constantly evolving, the answer to this question will constantly change over time.
Finishing the debate about the suitability of Bosch Superfit grease for brake caliper guide pins. Now I can say with 100% certainty that lubricant for brake systems - Bosch Superfit ideal for machining brake caliper guide pins ... Why did I suddenly have such confidence? It's simple. It took me almost a year of time and several tubes to test the suitability of this grease! And this lubricant was tested successfully, albeit not on sports cars, but “just” on cars working in taxis. But, the fact that not a single guide pin soured, the grease did not leak out, the anthers did not swell and the calipers remained mobile remains a fact. And these are no longer empty words of omniscient critics and specialists, such as Valery. Plus, a written request was sent to Bosch, asking for more details on the areas of application of Superfit grease. The employees of the company were not too lazy to answer. What can I tell you ... They also disagree with Valery's opinion. Amazing, huh? To anyone interested, you can independently visit the official website of the company and read information on lubricants, and see examples of its use. Or you can just look at the screen of the page (see below). Everything will become clear.
And as a result Bosch Superfit grease perfectly retains its nominal viscosity, which is not affected by time or temperature. Also, this grease does not destroy rubber seals and anthers, does not coke and does not leak. And it is in no way inferior to lubricant for the brake system - TRW PFG110.
That's all for now! Everything ways to eliminate knocking and ringing of the front brake caliper on Daewoo Lanos and Daewoo Nexia cars known and verified by me, I have listed. Perhaps in the future the material will be supplemented with fresh information. So, to be continued.
VIDEO Video uploaded by Sergey L
eliminate the noise caused by the caliper guide pin. we sharpen on the machine from the repair one slightly increased standard.
Full maintenance of the front brake piston SENS, Lanos, what problems arise when the piston and guides wedge, how and how to properly lubricate and sort and reassemble them. Who can help and who does not mind for the further development of the channel: WebMoney: R824256517652 U297050944761 Z418288984866 Privat Bank: 5168 7422 0395 6960 5168 7422 1478 1969 QIWI Wallet: +380507421067 Thank you all for your support and understanding.
As in 10min. at home replace the front brake pads with Daewoo lanos My videos
Pads-B1G10209262. Guides-810072. Grease for guides-PFG110. Copper grease-AC4575.
To whom this video was useful and do you think that this option will be, share it with other people! who wants to help-4276 8801 5769 2611 sber. qiwi +30952498610
grease for shruz is used in shruz, your fingers will jam and gum will spread, there you need a special lubricant for the guides
What if the guides are already 10mm and there is an ellipse in the hole? is it possible to make repairs?
Tell me, what kind of hexagon for the bracket is needed?
Yes, you do not need to sharpen anything. 2 times a year to revise the anthers and renew the lubricant. there is a tolerance for the thermal gap. since the guides and the skeleton of the caliper itself are made of different metals.
and here are the iron plates that play any role on the pads? I installed the pads without them as the ears were broken. What do you think?
do not tell me what kind of lubricant is needed for the suport ??
Brakes are a very important element of any car, because your safety depends on their performance. The main load on any car is borne by the front part, as we know there disc brakes. After a long mileage, already from 60,000 kilometers and more, the braking efficiency begins to fall, this may be due to improper operation of the brake caliper, sometimes you can even catch a "wedge". However, the device is quite simple and can be repaired by hand. I think this article will be useful to you, at the end there will be a detailed video ...
CONTENTS OF THE ARTICLE
To begin with, I will say that the front wheel can simply jam, by analogy as in this article, it just stops spinning! Guys, this is very dangerous, at speed it can lead to an accident.Therefore, the caliper must be diagnosed correctly and on time. However, to begin with, a little about the structure.
There will be a separate article about the caliper, but now I want to show on my "fingers" what moving parts there are that suffer in the first place. This is a fairly simple device, it has only two working elements - guides and pistons.
They are the culprits of the whole "celebration", if they fail, then the work is disrupted. However, the structure of the piston is now quite strong, physical leakage, when you broke, say, the brake hose, is now a rare phenomenon. And therefore the caliper breaks down due to acidification of the pistons and guides, but about that a little lower.
If the operation of this unit is disrupted, then it turns out that there is an uneven wear of the brake pads. You just need to pull them out and look at them, if they work correctly, they should have approximately the same wear (plus or minus 10%). If the rear, for example, is thicker than the front, it turns out that the caliper is not working properly! The brake disc is also worth looking at - wear should be even. If the wear of the pads is uneven, and it is pronounced, for example, the outer one is much more worn out than the inner one, you urgently need to either change or repair the caliper and not wait until it jam.
Such uneven wear speaks only of the rim - the pistons strongly press on one pad (there is maximum wear), and the second does not seem to be involved at all.
The reasons, as always, are commonplace, they are "souring" or "coking" of the brake pistons or guides. This can happen both due to improper maintenance and due to a banal breakdown.
1) Improper service. Often, LITOL or graphite grease is stuffed on the guides in the garages of folk craftsmen, which leads to the swelling of the anther of the guide, and later it simply "sours".
2) This is a banal anther breakthrough. Moisture begins to flow onto the guide, which sooner or later will corrode it and lead to acidification.
3) The next reason lies in the piston itself. Its body can also suffer from a ruptured anther, water gets in.
4) Either from poor quality brake fluid. It is hydroscopic, and therefore, over time, a lot of water accumulates in it, if it is not replaced, it begins to corrode the piston from the inside, which also leads to acidification.
Well, now let's go directly to the repair of the caliper. Let's start with the simplest.
Often, the guides are a kind of bolts that are screwed into special lugs of the body. If they show foci of corrosion that can no longer be removed, then they just need to be replaced.
We unscrew it from the mount (ear) and insert a new guide, a very simple replacement. After that, you need to use only the correct lubricant (usually comes in the kit), and it is also important not to forget to put on the anthers, we immediately check them for leaks, there should be no breaks and cracks. Now I propose to move on to the pistons.
Here the task is more difficult, because they are located inside the caliper body and repair is not so easy. I want to note right away - there are times when the piston gets wedged in the body, and it does not move at all! There can be two actions here:
1) Try to revive this caliper, put it "soak", say, in gasoline or silicone grease. Then carefully try to pull the piston out of the housing.
2) Buy a corny new caliper. Sometimes it jams very firmly, breaking the case; repairs will not help here.
If the pistons are still running, the first difficulty concerns pulling them out of the body. To do this, the service station uses compressed air, which is fed into the brake fluid hole. Thus, the piston simply flies out, if you are doing repairs in the garage, then you need to "squeeze out" with the help of brake fluid, simply without disconnecting them from the general system. Do not worry that the "brake" will leak, you still need to change it after repair.
Now we examine the case.If there are traces of bending, rust, or mechanical damage, then it definitely needs to be changed, the repair will not be justified here. To do this, we purchase a repair kit, with rubber seals and new pistons, it is important to replace that it must have a special lubricant, usually for both the guides and pistons! IT IS IMPORTANT!
Without it, there will be no point in repairing, because how can you break new seals.
Now I will list the points:
1) We take out the old rubber bands and seals.
3) We clean the case, both outside and inside.
4) Then, applying a new lubricant, we process all the attachment points.
5) Install the gum seals
6) Install the pistons, also pre-lubricated.
After these manipulations, we collect the caliper. The repair is finished, it can be installed on the car. Do not forget to change the brake fluid and then bleed the system.
Now I want to provide you with a detailed repair video, described in more detail.
VIDEO
That's all, I think my article was useful to you, put the likes in the social. networks!
And so, guys, hello everyone. Today's video is dedicated to the Daewoo Lanos car. And today I will be changing the caliper guides. There is such a problem on these cars.
Here the caliper is clamped, but still there is a backlash.
The fact is that the caliper guides wear out. Because of this, there may be vibration on the steering wheel when braking, there may be a knock.
In general, the repair is not difficult. I'm not some kind of craftsman or repairman.
But I am sure that I can do everything myself.
First of all, we need to unscrew the bolts holding the brake drum and caliper. For this work we need a 14 wrench and a 10 hex wrench.
Use a good quality tool as the screws are heavy and you can lick off the edges. Then you will have to buy new parts for Zaz Shop.
So, we remove the caliper. Then carefully remove the brake pads.
Now we rip off the hexagon screws. By the way, it is better to lubricate the screws not with grease or lithol, since they stick to heat from heating.
Better to use a special lubricant. Everything.
Now we detach the bracket. Here they are, our Daewoo Lanos caliper guides. Now I will go to the turner to have a look. Perhaps it will be necessary to grind the whole thing.
The holes in the Daewoo Lanos bracket were punched for me. I put in thickened repair rails. Works great. Sits tight, walks smoothly. Now we assemble in the reverse order and drive safely.
How to replace front brake pads on Daewoo Lanos, (Daewoo Lanos), Sens, (Sens) Nexia, (Nexia), Chevrolet Lanos, (Chevrolet Lanos), Zaz Chance, (Zaz Chance), do it yourself.
When braking, you hear a characteristic creaking sound (do not take into account the creak after driving through a deep puddle or a long drive over a dusty area)? It's probably time to change the brake pads. (In this article I will tell you how to change the front pads, I described how to change the rear pads here)
It is very easy to check whether this is true or not:
- Jack up the car, remove the front wheel and look through the service hole in the brake caliper at the thickness of the friction lining on the brake pad. Minimum permissible friction lining wear: 1.5 mm.
To perform the work, you will need: a flat screwdriver, a vernier caliper, a 14 mm wrench, a jack, a wheel wrench.
1. Tighten the parking brake lever fully. Remember to place wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
2. Remove the front wheel bolts. Then jack up the right or left side of the car to choose the right or left (all the same pads will have to be replaced on both sides) so that the front wheel is completely released. Finally unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the front wheel. If necessary, wash the brakes with a mixture of water and detergent. Let the brakes dry.
Dear homemade products, you can wash the brakes only with water and detergent, in no case use gasoline, diesel fuel and other petroleum products for this operation, as well as any solvents.
3. Use a screwdriver to push the brake pads away from the disc, as shown in Figure 1.
Then remove the lower brake caliper guide pin bolt Figure 2.
Lift the caliper bracket up photo 3.
4. Remove both brake pads, photo 4.
To be sure of the brakes, take a vernier caliper and measure the thickness of the brake disc at four locations. Remember that the maximum permissible brake disc thickness is 18 mm. Thoroughly clean the brake mechanism from dirt, dust and rust. Check the condition of the hold-down springs and if they are badly deformed or rusty, replace them.
5. Move the piston inside the brake caliper. Be very careful not to damage the boot and piston seal. You should also always remember that if brake fluid is poured into the expansion tank of the master brake cylinder at the MAX mark, then when the piston is pressed in, the fluid may leak out. To eliminate this, it is necessary to pump out part of the liquid from the expansion tank with a clean syringe.
6. Install new brake pads (figure 5) on the caliper.
Then lower the caliper bracket to its original position. Before tightening the bolt of the lower guide pin, it is advisable to remove the pin from the brake caliper housing and apply lubricant to its surface, also put the lubricant inside the boot. Tighten the brake caliper guide pin lower bolt.
Always, when performing any work related to the brakes, it is necessary to check the integrity of all anthers and seals.
7. Install the front wheel and tighten the bolts of its fastening. Lower the car and finally tighten the mounting bolts.
9. Repeat the above operations, but now on the other side of the car.
Video (click to play).
10. After completing all operations, get into the car and press the brake pedal several times to bring the brake pads to the discs. If necessary, add the required amount of brake fluid to the expansion tank.
