In detail: DIY repair of glow plugs from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Repair of glow plugs consists in removing carbon deposits by sandblasting on a GARO-514-2M device.
A two-wire candle is checked for insulation strength between the core and the body. The test is carried out with an alternating current of 220 V. The dielectric strength is sufficient if the lamp does not light up after 2 seconds of the test.
If the spiral is not damaged, the absence of a short circuit between the core and the central rod is checked by measuring the ohmic resistance of the candle with a voltmeter and an ammeter, which should be within 0.03 ohms. The maximum current passed through the glow plug should not exceed 50 A. Two-wire plugs with faulty insulation are discarded, the burned-out spiral of a two-wire plug is replaced.
For this, the remnants of the burnt spiral are removed, holes with a diameter of 2.1 mm are drilled in the middle of the central rod and the end of the core to a depth of 5-6 mm. When repairing glow plugs, another 3 mm hole is drilled on the side of the core so that it connects with the previously drilled hole (2.1 mm diameter).
A spiral is made of nichrome wire with a diameter of 2 mm. The length and diameter of the wire of the filament is chosen depending on the value of the electrical resistance of the wire.
During the repair of glow plugs, the ends of the spiral are inserted into the holes of the plug and soldered with copper with a gas welding torch. Soldering is done at the end of the rod and the core, as well as through the side hole of the core.
The presence of a short circuit in a single-wire candle is detected in the same way as in a two-wire. The ohmic resistance of a single-wire spark plug when tested under a current of 24-30 A should be in the range of 0.4-0.5 ohms.
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Defective insulation (mikanit) is replaced; for which the nuts are unscrewed, the lower end of the spiral is soldered off from the central rod and the core is removed from the body. The spiral of a single-wire candle is replaced in the same way as a two-wire one.
After replacing damaged parts, the starting glow plugs are again checked for short circuit and compliance of the ohmic resistance of the spirals with the technical conditions.
The last step in repairing glow plugs is to check for leaks with a tool at an air pressure of 2 MPa. Holding time under pressure not less than 30 s; no air leakage is allowed.
He took off the collector, began to deal with the candles and saw that:
1) on one candle the nut is unscrewed and fell off, the terminal hangs nearby
2) the terminal on the wire of the spark plug of the first cylinder is torn off
3) the rest of the nuts are loosened to varying degrees
Since I previously noticed that all the candles are working and uniform heating is visually visible, and the engine started up much better, I can conclude that the nuts were unscrewed during operation and a significant role in this was played by the solarium, which flowed in abundance from under the nozzles. time - until I bought a hose of the required diameter and fixed all the leaks. All nuts in traces of diesel fuel vapor. Apparently, I missed the first cylinder - the candle could not work in it, the wire was torn off - and I saw it, I just could not understand where it came from. After removing the collector, I saw an unused candle and drew attention to it.
All candles show resistance 0.3-0.4 ohms, taking into account the tester's error. All wires ring and show 0 ohms.
I tried it already 2 times, however, in the garage - when the thermometer was +15 after warming up the garage and after idle time, when it showed +5 (it was -7 on the street at that moment).It actually starts up with a half-turn - it was not like that before, at first the shaking and contractions with one cylinder began - this lasted for a different length of time, depending on the air temperature around.
At the same time, I restored the insulation of the wiring harness, the insulation of the sensors, eliminated twists, soldered the contacts, and put on heat shrinkage. In the process - setting the injection advance angle of the high-pressure fuel pump and checking the valve timing.
Glow plugs sometimes fail, while knocking out an error on the instrument panel. After diagnosing and replacing the spark plug, the error periodically appears anyway, despite a properly working system. This is possible with different resistance values for the new candle and all the others. In this case, it is recommended to change the candles (if there are five of them, then it turns out a little expensive). But you can try to restore the candle. In my experience, about 90 percent of faulty plugs will lie down for restoration.
The glow plug itself is not much different from the shades used in electric kettles, toasters and similar electrical devices. The disadvantage of these things is that the heating coil must somehow be attached to the contacts. And it is a very common phenomenon when, due to numerous heating-cooling cycles, the contact point is simply oxidized or covered with carbon deposits. Everything would be fine, but the candle is not collapsible and we cannot clean the place of contact. But. You can try to burn this carbon deposit with a good arc (as in welding). So. In order to restore the candle, you need to collect the following scheme:
With a SHORT-TERM touch of the case (where the minus is in the figure), the circuit will close and if you see a spark at the point of contact - congratulations, we have a whole candle.
If you did not see a spark (i.e. the current does not flow through the circuit), try a couple more times and if there is no result, the candle is irreversibly faulty. (but this is rare)
Many car enthusiasts are interested in how to unscrew a broken glow plug. Quite often, drivers break off this detail. There may be several reasons for such a breakdown. Sometimes, the problem lies in the candles themselves, in other cases, it is the unsuccessful actions of the person himself. As a rule, drivers with such a failure begin to panic, assuming that they will need to remove the head, or go to an official service, which will result in a certain amount. But, in fact, life should be treated more simply. Usually you can get off with a little blood, and unscrew the candle yourself, though you have to tinker.
How to unscrew a broken glow plug? If a person has such a question, and he began to look for information on this topic, then it makes sense to figure out what is not worth doing. After all, not all advice is useful. Most often, you can read about dissolving a candle in acid. It's hard to come up with more nonsense. Please note that the screwed part of the spark plug, like the engine, is made of metal. Yes, the skirt of a glow plug is made of soft metal, but a concentrated acid solution is required to dissolve it. Using it, you are guaranteed to damage the cylinder head. That is, using this advice, you will definitely get to replace the cylinder head, moreover, this is at best.
There are 2 ways to fix this problem:
- Complete disassembly of the engine;
- Unscrewing the remainder of the candle using a special tool.
The first method requires quite serious knowledge and skills in repairing motors, in addition to this, it is laborious. The second method at first glance seems easy, but in practice it is also quite complicated, for this you will need to acquire a tool and learn to work with it correctly.
To dismantle a candle, you will need a whole set of tools that are not always available in the garage. This includes:
Dynamometer wrench;
Compressor or any other source of compressed air;
Extractor keys. They are used to remove broken fasteners, usually similar to borax. You will have to buy a whole set;
Liquid wrench, WD-40 or any other penetrating lubricant.
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Here is such a rather large list you will need to prepare before starting the repair.
After you have managed to unscrew the candle, you will need to check the threads in the well. It must be free from damage and burrs. In principle, if you did everything carefully, then there should be no problems. Do not forget to blow out the cylinder from dust and small particles formed during the unscrewing process. When installing the replacement part, be sure to use a torque wrench and tighten it to the manufacturer's recommended torque.
Conclusion... The problem with a broken-off glow plug on a diesel engine is not such a rare thing. Therefore, many would be interested to know how to unscrew a broken glow plug. In fact, if you have straight arms, you can do this without any problems. Although, in any case, you will have to tinker, nevertheless the engine requires special attention. To work, you will need to purchase special keys.
REPLACING DIESEL CANDLES
In the lineup of almost all leading auto manufacturers, models equipped with diesel engines are widely represented. A key feature of a diesel engine is that no spark is required to ignite the fuel in its combustion chamber.
In this case, the fuel is supplied to the chamber, the air of which has already been heated to a temperature of more than 700 degrees due to its compression by the piston. This temperature is sufficient for self-ignition. Therefore, glow plugs are used in diesel engines.
The glow plug is used as a priming element. The fact is that at temperatures below +5 degrees, the evaporation of diesel fuel significantly deteriorates, which makes it difficult to form a mixture and start the engine. The filament element solves this problem by providing sufficient preheating.
Therefore, replacement of the glow plugs in the event of a failure should be carried out as soon as possible. This is especially true in the winter, when the car owner may face serious difficulties when starting the engine. Therefore, do not delay replacing the glow plugs on a diesel engine.
Removing broken glow plugs
It often happens that such a simple procedure as replacing the diesel glow plugs in the engine turns into a lot of problems. And this happens in those cases when the candle sticks to the block head so much that it is no longer possible to unscrew the glow plug from there. The glow plug is broken - one of the reasons is coke, which clogs up in the well under the candle. Then it is very difficult to turn out the broken glow plug.
Broken glow plugs - the main reasons are:
• The spark plug torque has been exceeded;
• Great effort when trying to unscrew the glow plugs from the block head;
• Violations committed during the previous installation of the spark plugs.
Sometimes, independent replacement of candles by a car owner often leads to the fact that he broke the glow plug with his own hand. How can you unscrew (drill out) broken glow plugs without damaging the block head? We know how to remove the glow plugs without removing the cylinder head and keep the engine running.
We carry out works with departure (and without) in Moscow and M.O .:
• Removing broken off glow plugs without removing the cylinder head;
• We will be able to extract the glow plugs if they break off in the head;
• Take out a piece of the electrode from the plug from the head without removing it;
• Replacement of broken glow plugs;
• Drilling (unscrewing) broken off glow plugs;
• Take out the fragment (tip) of the glow plug;
How to unscrew a broken glow plug? Proven methods
How to unscrew a broken glow plug? If a person has such a question, and he began to look for information on this topic, then it makes sense to figure out what is not worth doing. After all, not all advice is useful. Most often, you can read about dissolving a candle in acid. It's hard to come up with more nonsense. Please note that the screwed part of the spark plug, like the engine, is made of metal.Yes, the skirt of a glow plug is made of soft metal, but a concentrated acid solution is required to dissolve it. Using it, you are guaranteed to damage the cylinder head. That is, using this advice, you will definitely get to replace the cylinder head, moreover, this is at best.
There may be several reasons for this. Let's see what causes you to end up with a broken candle:
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Design features. Many glow plug models have multiple parts. The base is a threaded rod, a cylinder in the form of a nut is attached to it, it is with its help that the part is unscrewed. But, often, this cylinder simply breaks off the mountings, as a result of which, it begins to spin freely. Or just breaks off;
"10 years without overhaul". Glow plugs are reliable enough, so you can often find foreign cars 10-20 years old, where this structural element has never been removed. Accordingly, they stick to the threads, soot collects on them. All this leads to problems when unscrewing, and, accordingly, breaking it off right on the engine. Natural "metal fatigue" is also affected here;
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Greetings to all members of the forum and Happy New Year. In general, the prehistory is as follows: due to his ignorance (and most of all haste), he turned his head off the glow plug, motor OM605.910. For about 3 months I drove until the cold came. There are only one craftsmen who drills candles in our area and have missed out on it, getting to him is quite difficult, you have to go to the regional center, plus the master's unwillingness to drill the 5th candle, since you need to drain the oil, antifreeze, remove the oil filter flask and the heat exchanger ... Therefore, after reading the forum, I decided to try it myself, especially since I always do everything else myself.
He took off the manifold, the wiring and started. The candle broke off like this: 
WP_20150104_001.jpg 2.94MB 14 downloads The central electrode was turned out correctly:
WP_20150104_002.jpg 2.86MB 10 downloads Then there were long reflections on how to proceed further, trying to weld something to the candle, removing everything and drilling, but I decided to try my luck.
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A set of extractors with a left-hand thread and a cone was bought in the store:
WP_20150104_004.jpg 2,3MB 5 downloads True, I had to modify the necessary ones a little with a welder
WP_20150104_005.jpg 2.59MB 5 downloads In general, I screwed in this extractor, heated the engine to operating temperature and began to slowly press. the candle long and stubbornly did not want
to get under way, and at the first attempt 3 months ago, she already twisted a little, about one turn. There was a very big fear that the extractor itself would break off inside the candle, I realized that if this happens then it will be a complete kick. Then I came up with a small trick, started the engine and with a small hammer for 2-3 minutes easily tapped on the end of the extractor in the direction of the candle. The effect was positive and ABOUT MIRACLE. the candle moved. A few more such manipulations and she has already twisted half a turn.
And then it’s easier, I twisted it a little bit, gave it a rest, twisted it, waited still and after 20-30 minutes I was already enjoying the work done.
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JeeP 04 Jan 2015
A set of extractors with a left-hand thread and a cone was bought in the store
Useful topic)) The current itself became the owner of Viti 601.970 engine. The burned out candle needs to be replaced, I scoop up how I can get out if something goes wrong ..
Post has been editedJeep: 04 January 2015 - 14:13
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Vabank210 04 Jan 2015
I had 2 burnt out. But lucky to unscrew with
You need to shoot at least once a year!
Post has been editedVabank210: 04 January 2015 - 14:29
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601,970 engine. Which engine is it? if the candles are short, then there are no problems with unscrewing, if long, then you need to twist more closely. in any case, unscrew on a hot engine and preferably with a pneumatic percussion gun
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JH 04 Jan 2015
In general, I screwed in this extractor, heated the engine to operating temperature and began to slowly press. the candle long and stubbornly did not want
to get under way, and at the first attempt 3 months ago, she already twisted a little, about one turn. There was a very big fear that the extractor itself would break off inside the candle, I understood that if this happens, it will be a complete kick. Then I came up with a small trick, started the engine and with a small hammer for 2-3 minutes easily tapped on the end of the extractor in the direction of the candle. The effect was positive and ABOUT MIRACLE. the candle moved. A few more such manipulations and she has already twisted half a turn.
And then it’s easier, I twisted it a little bit, gave it a rest, twisted it, waited still and after 20-30 minutes I was already enjoying the work done.
for wit!
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JeeP 04 Jan 2015
601,970 engine. Which engine is it? if the candles are short, then there are no problems with unscrewing, if long, then you need to twist more closely. in any case, unscrew on a hot engine and preferably with a pneumatic percussion gun
I'm still not really rummaging around how to figure it out here .. One engine is designated by different numbers. in short, in my car market they understand 108 and 601 movements.
The candles are like this
I understand that they are short. on Delica and Toyota were 2 times longer
Post has been editedJeep: 04 January 2015 - 14:51
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I'm still not really rummaging around how to figure it out here .. One engine is designated by different numbers. in short, in my car market they understand 108 and 601 movements.
The candles are like this
I understand that they are short. on Delica and Toyota were 2 times longer
You understand correctly, short. With such problems never arose.
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for wit!
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JeeP 04 Jan 2015
You understand correctly, short. With such problems never arose.
encouraged to be honest .. because even services do not undertake replacing candles
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Not taken because
firstly, they are afraid of responsibility suddenly what goes wrong
secondly, unscrewing the candle is not a problem, it is a problem to get to it, especially on newer engines
P.S. you can safely twist such a short one
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Of course, I congratulate the young people on their success!
BUT, guys, I want to warn you about the nuances of this particular method:
1 - having welded a head, extension cord, knob, etc. to the extractor. - you break his hardening.
2 - if you break the extractor in the candle - how will you twist it? - is it hardened?
We somehow broke such an extractor on the M57 (BMW) and pi..dets.
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lev21 05 Jan 2015
A few more such manipulations and she has already twisted half a turn.
And then it’s easier, I twisted it a little bit, gave it a rest, twisted it, waited still and after 20-30 minutes I was already enjoying the work done.
after unscrewing it a little, it is good to tighten it back by the same amount. And so twisting-untwisting, “swinging”, twisting. Less burnt / adhering muck gets into the thread.
1 - having welded a head, extension cord, knob, etc. to the extractor. - you break his hardening.
2 - if you break the extractor in the candle - how will you twist it? - is it hardened?
+1. It's good that everything ended well.
Tapping the candle is the right decision, but it would be better not to risk it.
If the central electrode is broken off correctly, then it's better in the old fashioned way: drill, tap, reverse hammer.
Post has been edited Cannibal Mad on: 05 January 2015 - 15:19
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If the central electrode is broken off correctly, then it's better in the old fashioned way: drill, tap, reverse hammer.
The circuit was made temporarily, from what was at hand, but the operating time showed that nothing else was needed, I had long forgotten about replacing the glow plugs. Only the block itself was altered, and the terminals that are not used were also removed from it. The block is interchangeable with the factory one. (no changes were made to the car's electrical circuit)
At first I thought about doing it without a relay (that's why there is a powerful transistor KT837F on the diagram), but then I insured myself - I decided to put a relay to switch the load to make it more reliable.
When the key is turned in the ignition switch to the “on” position, + 12V is supplied to terminal 86 of the block. Capacitor C1 is discharged, the voltage at the anode of the Zener diode is lower than the stabilization voltage (6.8V), the Zener diode is closed and the transistor VT1 is closed. A negative potential is supplied to the base of the transistor VT2 through R6 and the transistor VT2 opens. The relay is triggered and the relay contacts switch the relay coil of the glow plugs and the preheating warning lamp with minus (ground) of the car. The glow plug relay (not shown) turns on the engine glow plugs.
The engine temperature sensor when the engine is cold (20 ° C) has a resistance of about 1.2kΩ. at 60 degrees. C resistance is about 280 Ohms. The higher the engine temperature, the lower the resistance of the temperature sensor, and vice versa, the colder the engine, the greater the resistance of the sensor. A temperature sensor (not shown in the diagram) is connected in parallel with resistor R3. The charge time of the capacitor C1 depends on the resistance of the sensor. The capacitor is charged through the + 12V circuit, R4, in parallel with R3 / temperature sensor, -12V. Gradually, the capacitor is charged when the voltage on the negative plate reaches the breakdown voltage of the Zener diode VD2, the transistor VT1 will open and VT2 will close. The relay will release the contacts, the glow plugs and warning light will turn off.
The ignition key can now be turned to the position that engages the engine starter. When the starter is switched on via the ignition switch, the plus is connected to terminal 50. Capacitor C1 begins to discharge through the ignition switch, diode VD1, R1. The voltage across the capacitor drops, the Zener diode VD2 and the transistor VT1 close and the transistor VT2 opens. The relay energizes, the glow plugs and warning light come on. When the engine starts and the ignition key is moved back to the previous position, terminal 50 is de-energized, the capacitor is gradually charged and after a short time delay, the transistor VT1 will open and VT2 will close, the relay will release the contacts - the glow plugs will turn off and the preheating warning lamp will go out.
Resistor R2 serves to discharge capacitor C1 on power off when the motor is not running. Resistor R3 maintains the capacitor in a charged state when the temperature sensor circuit is open and protects the glow plugs from false switching.
Due to the presence of the VD2 zener diode, the relay works clearly, without contact bouncing.
The circuit is suitable for many cars, the only condition is, based on the resistance of the temperature sensor and the required heating time of the glow plugs, you need to recalculate the resistors of the charge / discharge circuit of the capacitor C1 and the capacitance C1
Those. on the engine. where exactly to cling.
For any unpainted metal surface, crankcase, fastening screw, cooling jacket rib, the nut of the plug itself is ideal if the engine is an airplane.
If there is a charger, but it cannot be.
If it is at 12V, i.e. the usual version is any lead or even lithium battery as an energy source for the charger - then you set the appropriate current in the cadmium charge mode so that the voltage is about 1.2-1.4 volts - and here you are!
Uzhs ... How do you turn on the light at home ... the iron ...?
I am not very good in designations ... but thanks anyway, they explained it clearly ...
I will only add that household hydrides of the AA format will not work: the current is about 2A, for them it is already fatty, they can stupidly sink under load and instead of heating there will be figs with oil.
If there are finger elements, then it is better to take cadmium at 600-800, and two can be paralleled for fidelity. Right now, the heat from two parallel 2 / 3A sagnes at 600 mAh is simple and reliable. The main thing is not to forget to charge 😉
And I now have a 12 volt battery, I want some kind of step-down device with 12 volts. up to 1.5v.,
... who made the glow himself. Of what.
The option with crocodiles is far from the best, there is no aesthetics, and most importantly, it is not at all convenient when installing the motor head down and there is always the opportunity to shorten the ACC.
It is better to choose a spring, the inner diameter of which would allow to put it on the spark plug with an interference fit, then everything is simple: we bite off 5 - 7 mm of this spring, solder the wire to one end and isolate this case along the entire length of the "exposure" with heat shrinkage (you can just use electrical tape) and put on (“pull”) on the candle, put the other end of the wire on any two-pin connector (mother) and fix this mess (connector) in any convenient part of the fuselage. We attach the second wire from the connector to any bolt on the motor. It remains only to solder the battery to the mating connector (dad) ... You can use any connector, you don't need to steam with polarity either ... And if you plug a small ammeter or a stupid LED (you can from a flashlight) into the wire break from the ACC, you will also get an indication of the working capacity of the candle.
Diesel car owners will find it very useful to know how to check glow plugs, since they are an integral part of a diesel engine, and any failure in their work will create discomfort, or even force you to change to public transport.
The main function of these parts is to start the engine, because, as you know, its principle of operation is somewhat different from that of gasoline, since the fuel in this case is ignited not by means of a spark, but by compression. And a more efficient ignition is facilitated by a high temperature, which is what glow plugs provide. Modern cars are equipped with such types that heat the fuel not only until the moment of start-up, but also then for several more minutes, thanks to this, the operation of the engine at idle speed becomes more stable, and the emission of harmful substances reaches a minimum due to more efficient combustion of fuel.
Undoubtedly, in the warm season, there is practically no need for them, but as soon as the ambient temperature reaches + 5 ° C, it becomes almost impossible to start a car without this element... Therefore, it is very important to monitor their condition, especially with the onset of cold weather, and for this you need to know how to check the glow plug. But first, let's take a closer look at their connection diagram in order to understand at what point you need to sound the alarm.
In principle, they can be compared to an electric heater. The rod of the candle is located in the prechamber in such a way that its tip is right on the border of the swirling of the working mixture created by the nozzle. The glow plug connection diagram provides automatic supply of electric current, immediately after turning the ignition key to the operating position. They heat up themselves to a very high temperature and, accordingly, warm up the combustion chamber, as well as the air that enters it.
The glow plug control unit is responsible for their correct functioning. The algorithm of its operation is as follows: after turning the key, the candles are connected directly to the battery, at the same time the corresponding light on the instrument panel lights up, after some time of preliminary heating this lamp goes out, which indicates that the engine is fully ready to start.
The first sign that a failure has occurred in the electrical heating system is an inoperative indicator.... This may indicate a failure of the fuse or the temperature sensor. Long-term burning of the indicator indicates the need to replace the thermal switch, and if you ignore this, the thermal pin may burn out, and then the glow plugs will need to be replaced. True, the indicator sometimes may not signal a possible breakdown.
Also, a clear sign that some kind of candle is starting to "play naughty" is a problematic engine start. And in this case, an urgent need to check the glow plugs.
