DIY 30w LED spotlight repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a 30w LED floodlight from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Repair of LED floodlights is one of the main services provided by our company.

We also carry out warranty and post-warranty repairs of LED floodlights of our own production, as well as repair of third-party floodlights, taking into account the recommendations set out below.

The repair period depends on the workload of our workshop, but, as a rule, does not exceed one or two days. Often it is possible to repair a searchlight even on the same day.

Our answer is Yes, but only if during the repair, spare parts for LED floodlights that are consistent with each other in terms of volt-ampere characteristics are used.

Choosing a mistake can be expensive!

There are two main parts in an LED floodlight - a matrix (light source) and a driver (power supply) for this matrix. Both of these parts are almost always non-separable, and in the event of a breakdown, one or both of them must be replaced. Matrices, like drivers, in an LED floodlight can be installed several, usually from one to four.

Owners of cheap and low-quality LED floodlights are often faced with their failure, following a very short time after purchase and installation.

This is expressed in the fact that the spotlight blinks, burns dimly or does not burn at all. Any of the symptoms indicates the need for diagnosis and repair.

You can always buy spare parts for LED floodlights necessary for repairs from us:

Many people mistakenly believe that spare parts for floodlights are universal and, for example, any matrix with a nominal power of twenty watts will fit a twenty-watt driver.

Video (click to play).

This is by no means the case! In order to revive your bright friend, you need to select those spare parts for the LED floodlight that coincide in current and operating voltage range.

An error in the choice can lead to the fact that the repair will end with a quick burnout of the matrix, or the failure of the driver (less often), or the matrix simply will not light up.

TAUREI LED matrices are fully compatible with the corresponding power supplies (drivers), and their joint work will be reliable and long-term.

Therefore, when choosing spare parts for repairing an LED floodlight, the most correct solution would be to replace the matrix and driver in pairs.

If you own a soldering iron and at least the most basic knowledge in radio electronics, then repair (replacement of the driver and / or matrix) of the LED floodlight will not be a problem for you.

But it must be borne in mind that on the basis of only an external examination of a faulty floodlight, it is impossible to make an unambiguous conclusion about which part is out of order... For example, the flickering of the matrix of an LED floodlight can be caused both by a malfunction of the matrix itself and the driver. To accurately determine the source of the problem, diagnostics are needed - at least, the matrix and the driver of the problematic spotlight should be connected in pairs to the same, but known good driver / matrix.

The main points to pay attention to during the repair process:

correspondence of the current-voltage characteristics of the driver and the matrix;
the matrix can be installed only for thermal grease;
tightness of final assembly.

Improper repairs can lead to additional costs. Here is an example - according to the client, the floodlight was repaired four months ago by the “craftsmen” from the radio market, who replaced the LED matrix.However, during the assembly, the tightness was broken, and the photographs show the consequences of only four months of outdoor operation.

Photos of the insides of the LED floodlight after four months of operation after a poorly made repair - the tightness was broken

This floodlight was restored, but in addition to thorough cleaning, both the driver and the matrix had to be changed.

The cost of repairs depends on what exactly needs to be replaced in the LED spotlight: a matrix, a driver, or all at once, and actually consists of the cost of spare parts and a small fee for diagnostics.

Diagnosis of a spotlight malfunction costs from 200 rubles (for LED spotlights less than 100 watts of power) to 400 rubles (for spotlights 100 or more watts). The cost of diagnostics does not depend on the number of matrices and power supplies in the projector.

The cost of repair work (disassembly, cleaning, replacement of parts, soldering, assembly) - completely freeif our spare parts are used in the repair process: matrices and / or power supplies.

Thus, for the repair of an LED floodlight, you only have to pay the price of the used spare part (s) and 200 rubles for diagnostics (400 rubles for powerful floodlights). The prices of matrices and power supplies are indicated on the website and are current.

To estimate the cost of repairs, contact us:

call the multichannel phone + 7495 789 8270;
write a letter describing the problem by email;
send a message from the site.

You asked - we answered

There are 3 LED lamps available, each has its own power source - 3 drivers with characteristics: output - DC 24 - 45V / 300mA + -5% / 14W. Can I connect 3 lamps in parallel and connect them to a power supply: DC 28-38 volts, 1500mA, 50W?Most likely, it will work, but with an obvious overcurrent on the matrices. The matrices will eventually fail. How quickly is difficult to say, perhaps very quickly.
In addition, such a connection will not have a good effect on the driver either.
LED floodlight ASD brand SDO-2-10 began to blink after a year of operation. What is the reason, what would you advise to change?
LED floodlight ASD brand SDO-2-20 does not light, although it worked for about 2 years at night. I measured a voltage of about 50 volts on the matrix. What, the matrix burned out? In general, how to check if it is working properly?Although we are not familiar with the indicated brands of floodlights, judging by the description, these are standard single-matrix floodlights of 10 and 20 watts.
Sometimes it is easy to diagnose a malfunction of an LED floodlight, sometimes it is more difficult.
Let's start with the second case.
Is it possible to replace the DC28-38V 600 mA power supply with a DC22-40V 900mA in a 20 watt floodlight? The driver fits into the case.Technically, such a replacement of the power supply is possible. A spotlight with a more powerful power supply will work. But the life of the matrix and, probably, the power supply will suffer.
Is it permissible to install a 100W driver and a 100W LED array in a 50W LED floodlight housing? Is there enough cooling? Thank you in advanceUnfortunately, the design of some of the 50-watt floodlights sold in Russia does not allow even the standard matrix to be cooled properly. We do not claim that this is your case, but nevertheless it is a fact.
In addition, the driver, most likely, will not fit - 100 watts is significantly more.
Hello! What should I do? In the presence of 18 floodlights of 20 watts. They need to be installed in a pit, but for safety reasons, 220 volts cannot be there - only 12, 24 or 36.
It is supposed to be divided into zones of 6 luminaires.
What's the best way to install three 120W drivers per zone? Or one powerful driver for everything at once?
The drivers were standing: Vout: DC20-43V, Lout: 600mA MODEL: 20600, with my multimeter I intended 34.8v at the driver output when the lamp was connected. Thanks in advance!Judging by the characteristics, the lighting is organized by conventional single-matrix LED floodlights with a power of 20 watts.
There are two ways to lower the voltage to 12, 24 or 36 volts.
Is it permissible to connect two 50 W power supplies in parallel to a 100 W LED matrix in a spotlight? Thank you in advance.No, such a connection of power supplies is absolutely not permissible.
Power supplies stabilize the current in the circuit by varying the output voltage. When connected in pairs, each driver will become an active load for the other, and the behavior of the entire system will be unpredictable.
It seems that the PSFL100 driver is suitable for us to replace the Chinese one. I would like to clarify what is stabilized - current or voltage? We need a driver with a stable current of 3000mA +/- 5%.
Chinese driver model LZ 220 V 100 W with DC characteristics: 30 - 36 V, 3000 mA +/- 5%.These are LED drivers, respectively, the current is stabilized, of course.
The PSFL100 fits your needs and should fit. A slightly wider range of output voltages of our driver (by 2 volts in each side) should not create problems; rather, on the contrary, it will add stability.

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Frequent problems with lighting at home unwittingly require an independent troubleshooting. Agree, it is rather inconvenient to regularly invite a specialist to bring an LED or any other type of device into working form. To avoid such discomfort, we suggest that you learn the basics on how to repair LED floodlights yourself.

LED floodlight is one of the demanded and popular devices used to illuminate the local area. This tool is quite convenient to use, but sooner or later it will require repair. Therefore, it is so important to know the skills to correctly identify a malfunction, eliminate dysfunction and be able to return the device to its normal state.

Attention! Basic LED floodlights do not provide for replacement of light sources with another with a different power.

Often, the breakdown of an LED flashlight occurs due to overheating of the matrix. Overheating will blow the fuses. Thus, the following are considered as indirect reasons leading to the dysfunction of the device:

short circuit;
connection of overcurrents;
overvoltage;
connecting to the wrong network;
non-observance of the device connection diagram.

Let us consider how a matrix defect is formed in more detail. The Matrix is a device powered by crystals. As a rule, there are dozens of them, and in case of failure of three or five crystals, the device continues to work in the same mode. Complete combustion of the matrix requires intervention. In such situations, a complete die replacement is ideal.

Important! In the process of repair work, the conductors of the searchlight should be additionally insulated.

Also, in almost all cases, the LED sources fail to work solely due to a malfunction of the drivers that feed the crystal surface of the floodlight. If your device becomes unusable during the warranty period, at the point of sale, you should be assisted and have the device replaced free of charge. Otherwise, you will have to resort to repairs yourself or pay for specialists.

To access the interior of the spotlight, you need to unscrew the back cover

Before proceeding with the repair work, you should acquire the necessary tools, as well as clarify the cause of the malfunction of the LED floodlights and carry out their elimination properly.

Chinese-made LED devices with a total power of 10 watts are considered frequent contenders for repairs, therefore, consider troubleshooting using the example of such a device. Let's get acquainted with the algorithm of actions:

We detach the cover of the device case to get to the internal mechanism.
Remove the glass cover and light diffuser.
We unsolder the LED source from the matrix.
We solder it to the new workable crystal panel.
We fasten each bolt, check the spotlight with a multimeter.If the dial tone shows the working position, then we fix the flashlight in its place and enjoy its further work.

It's important to know! Polarity must be observed before installing a new matrix.

After disassembling the spotlight, you can start repairing

We draw the attention of beginners, after eliminating the malfunction, you should proceed in the reverse order. In addition, there is an opportunity to find out malfunctions on the following grounds:

flickering of a light bulb;
dull burning;
changing the shades of the LED;
deformation of wires and insulation failure.

The device works thanks to the joint work of several installed systems: optics, power supplies, drivers and heat sinks. Inside the case are LEDs and small electronic components. The power supply drives the voltage to the LED element, which converts the current into light rays, due to which the floodlight shines.

Attention! Do not open the sealed housing of the LED floodlight unnecessarily.

After you have repaired the LED floodlight and made sure it works, you can slightly improve the device. In some devices that normally operate under 220 volt power conditions, a rectifier and stabilizer are usually not installed. Carrying out repairs yourself, such devices are very easy to install. To do this, you should connect in series pairs of LED sources, which are turned on in opposite directions, and a ballast capacitor should be applied to them.

Watch a small video tutorial on how to repair LED spotlights with your own hands:

Despite the fact that LED technology is very reliable, it cannot be perfect and sometimes fails. Especially if you decided to save a lot and bought one of the cheapest floodlights. So what to do if your LED spotlight flickers and blinks, or even worse - stopped working altogether, and your warranty for the purchased product ended, or did not start at all. It is possible that you purchased a non-certified product in a reliable store with a good reputation, and at your own risk ordered the most budget LED floodlight directly from China, through Aliexpress, for example? And here in front of you lies and blinks or does not shine at all, a far from cheap lighting device, and you do not know what to do? Don't give up. In this article we will tell you how to repair the device yourself.

In order to repair the LED processor with your own hands, you must confidently hold a multimeter (in the picture below) and a soldering iron in your hands. This is necessary in order to be able to determine the cause of the breakdown, and, in fact, eventually eliminate it, bringing the device back to life.

So, first of all, you need to determine the cause of the malfunction of your device. If the spotlight turns on, but when it is on does not burn evenly, but flickers and blinks, the current-limiting capacitor C1 is probably out of order. Many Chinese manufacturers sin by using a current-limiting capacitor that is not suitable for the driver in terms of parameters, trying to achieve maximum brightness from a not very powerful floodlight. A current limiting capacitor of 400 volts rated operating voltage is fine.

Another common cause can be the failure of the power supply. There are two ways out of the situation - contact an electronics store, where they will help you choose a suitable power supply unit (its characteristics are indicated on it, therefore, it is advisable to disassemble the spotlight and take the unit with you), or select a power supply unit (it can come from a scanner or printer).

The second option is possible, of course, only if you suddenly have unnecessary and non-working office equipment lying around, which can serve as a power supply donor.Check the power supplies so that they are similar in parameters. An exact match is not required, but the parameters should not diverge much. As mentioned earlier, if you have the skills to use tools and an understanding of electronics, you can easily change the power supply yourself.

If a low-power floodlight needs repair, it is likely that it may not have its own power supply, and the LED driver performs the function of changing the currents in it. Since the LED cannot be powered directly from the mains, requiring an alternating current that differs from what the mains can offer it, a driver is used in the floodlight device that takes into account the spread of the LED characteristics depending on the operating temperature and time, correcting the current supplied to the LED at the output ... It is this driver that can fail.

To replace it, it will be necessary to disassemble the LED floodlight and find out the driver marking in order to buy or order a replacement. If you are a confident user of a power tool, you can find the failed driver element and unsolder it and replace it. If you are repairing a DIY LED floodlight, most likely it will be easy enough for you to find the problem in the driver or find a similar driver and replace it. It will definitely be cheaper than buying or assembling a new floodlight from scratch.

Another option for the failure of the design of your LED floodlight, in addition to a malfunction of the driver, power supply or other small elements involved in the current conversion process, may be the burnout of the LED matrix itself. In case of failure of the LED itself, it is necessary to find and purchase a diode of similar characteristics. After disassembling the spotlight, you will need to carefully uninstall the burned-out matrix by unscrewing the four fastening screws and unsoldering the conductive elements. Then you will need to evenly and carefully apply a layer of thermal paste to the new diode, solder the current-carrying elements and carefully screw the matrix. It should be noted that the shape of the matrix must remain intact, that is, it is advisable to use the same screws that were used initially. They should not have tapered heads, as when using them, if you tighten them with a little more force, they can damage the die, and all your work will be for nothing.

To repair an LED spotlight yourself, you must at least have a good command of working with a soldering iron, testers and a multimeter, as well as understand the circuits or be able to read them in order to find the cause of the malfunction, evaporate the faulty element and replace it.

If a driver or a power supply unit is out of order in your spotlight, you can pick up a replacement and bring the lighting fixture back to life. Just as with the driver, replacement can be done with an LED matrix - just buy an analogue with similar characteristics. If for some reason after your manipulations the device did not work, it probably makes sense to purchase a new one. But if you are confident in your abilities, you can always assemble an LED floodlight with your own hands - it will be easier to repair it in the future, or replace some elements, constantly extending the life of the device.

One of the modern types of LED light sources for street lighting is the LED floodlight. The electrical circuit of an LED floodlight does not fundamentally differ from the circuit of an LED lamp. The main difference lies in their design, since it is required to ensure operability in a wide temperature range under precipitation conditions. Therefore, repairing floodlights with your own hands is not much different from repairing LED lamps and is even easier, since there are no difficulties during disassembly.To gain access to the driver and LEDs of the spotlight, just unscrew a few screws.Two identical LED floodlights of the SDO01-10 type with a power of 10 watts came to me for repair. An external examination immediately revealed a malfunction in one of them - a partial peeling of the protective layer and the presence of a dark spot on the light-emitting surface of the LED matrix.The hope of repairing a floodlight with a faulty LED matrix immediately disappeared, since the cost of such an LED emitter usually exceeds half the cost of a floodlight. Yes, and purchasing a new matrix is very problematic, since there are usually no markings on LEDs and it is difficult to determine the type of non-standard emitter. The appearance of the second spotlight raised no questions.I decided to simplify the repair task by rearranging the driver of a spotlight with a burned-out matrix into a spotlight with a working one. But removing the back covers revealed that the drivers were faulty in both spotlights.In both drivers, 1 Ohm protective resistors burned out, which indicated a breakdown of one of the diodes of the diode bridge or key transistor. Image - DIY 30w LED floodlight repair

A call with a multimeter showed that the junction at the key n-p-n transistor D13005K and the control S8050 was broken.

The resistor and transistors were soldered out and replaced with serviceable ones, but the searchlight did not work. Further search for the faulty element led to the feedback optocoupler, which ended up in an open circuit. In the photo, the optocoupler is located at the top left. After replacing the optocoupler, the LED floodlight worked.

The photo shows a typical wiring diagram of an LED floodlight driver. The principle of operation of the circuit of any floodlight driver is the same.

The voltage from the household network is fed to the driver input through the F1 fuse, filtered using LC elements and rectified by a diode bridge. Then it is smoothed by an electrolytic capacitor C13. A DC voltage of about 280 V is generated at the terminals of the capacitor.

From the capacitor C13, the voltage is supplied through current-limiting resistors to the Zener diode D12 and pin 6 of the microcircuit. The zener diode supplies the microcircuit with a voltage of 9 V, which is the reference for the driver as a whole. From the capacitor C13, the voltage also flows through the winding of the transformer T1.1 to the output of the field-effect transistor Q1 operating in the key mode.

The driver works as follows. From pin 5 of the microcircuit, high-frequency pulses are sent to the gate of the transistor Q1, due to which the resistance between its drain and source becomes close to zero. At this moment, a current flows through the primary winding of the transformer, due to which a voltage appears on the secondary winding. It is rectified by a fast diode SF28 and smoothed by an electrolytic capacitor SC1. The amount of current flowing through the LED matrix is determined by the value of the resistance of the resistors installed from the 3 pins of the microcircuit to the common wire.

The most common failures are electrolytic capacitors (they can be easily identified by their appearance - they are swollen), bridge rectifier diodes, field-effect transistor, high-frequency diode and zener diode (if it breaks, the microcircuit fails).

Usually LED arrays fail due to overheating. I decided to figure out why in this projector, despite the thick-walled duralumin case, which is at the same time a radiator, the LED matrix burned out.

The first thing that caught my eye was the fastening of the matrix with two screws, not four, which is provided for by its design. The screw heads were conical, which could lead to deformation of the matrix substrate when the screws were tightened strongly.

After unsoldering the current supply conductors and unscrewing the screws, the matrix easily detached from the body of the floodlight. The picture shows the appearance.Notches in the corners of the substrate instead of holes reduce the likelihood of even pressing it against the heatsink.

The reason for the burnout of the LED matrix became apparent after examining its reverse side. The area of the substrate opposite to the burned-out area with LEDs was not covered with heat-conducting paste, although the paste was applied evenly on the body of the spotlight.

Usually, the area of the radiator, against which the fuel element is pressed, is sanded. In the spotlight, this rule is doubly violated, since the area of the case, to which the LED matrix is pressed, is not polished, and is still painted with shagreen paint, which significantly reduces heat removal from the matrix.

Based on the above, we can conclude that the LED matrix is out of order due to overheating due to its poor pressure to the body of the floodlight during assembly.

Before installing the matrix in the body of the floodlight, the place of its contact was treated with sandpaper to a shine of aluminum and fresh thermal paste was applied.

Once again, I had to face the repair of a more powerful 30W type SDO01-30 floodlight.

The appearance of the spotlight is shown in the photo. In terms of overall dimensions, it is somewhat larger, and the design of the floodlight repeats the design of the above model.

After removing the back cover from the spotlight and inspecting the appearance of the radio elements on the printed circuit board, no parts with a suspicious appearance were found.

Inspection of the printed circuit board after removing it from the side of the printed conductors immediately revealed two burned-out resistors, R8 (2 ohms) and R22 (1 ohms). Usually, low-resistance resistors burn out from a large current flowing through them during breakdown of semiconductor devices or capacitors. Next to the resistors there was a field-effect transistor SVD4N65F, which turned out to be faulty during a continuity. The electric circuit of the floodlight was not available and it was necessary to find out the values of the burned-out resistors by opening a serviceable floodlight of the same type.

The defective resistors and the transistor were soldered out and all other semiconductor elements were additionally checked on the printed circuit board. After sealing the good resistors and transistor into the printed circuit board, the spotlight started working.

As you can see, having the skills to work with a multimeter and a soldering iron, you can successfully repair any LED spotlights with your own hands.

Although LED technology (including floodlights) is highly reliable, it also sometimes fails. Repair of LED floodlights allows you to eliminate most of the faults when you need to restore the device to work. Repair work is relevant not only when the device does not shine brightly enough, but also if it completely stops working.

LED floodlight (LED) contains the following components:

LEDs (provide a glow);
drivers (control the operation of the device);
frame;
light diffuser (allows you to increase the efficiency of the luminaire);
lenses (control the shape, color and some other characteristics of the light flux).

The floodlight functions thanks to the coordinated actions of several of its components, including optics, power supply, drivers and heat sinks. In the inner part of the case, there are light diodes, as well as small-sized electronic components. The power supply supplies voltage to the LEDs, where the current is transformed into a luminous flux. Thanks to these actions, the glow of the device is ensured.

The figure below shows a typical wiring diagram for an electron gun driver.

As for the principle of the driver's operation, it does not differ on different floodlights. Power from the mains is supplied to the driver input, bypassing the fuse F1. Further, there is filtration using LC-elements and rectification due to a diode bridge.Smoothing is carried out by an electrolytic capacitor (C13). A constant voltage (280 V) is generated across the capacitor terminals.

From the electrolytic capacitor, the voltage is directed through current-limiting resistors to the zener diode (D12) and pin No. 6 of the described microcircuit. The zener diode is responsible for the 9-volt power supply of the microcircuit, which is the main factor that ensures the functioning of the driver. From the capacitor C13, the current flows through the transformer winding (T1.1) through the terminal part of the field-effect transistor (Q1).

Note! The amount of current flowing through the light diodes depends on the parameters of the resistance of the resistors on the microcircuit.

The most common signs of a malfunctioning spotlight are:

the lamp does not light up although the power is on;
light diode flickers;
the glow is too dim, since the lamp burns weakly - not at full power;
the shade of the luminous flux has become unnatural.

Other signs may also be present, including physical damage to the structure of the case, deformation of the diode, and burned out electrical wiring.

Possible reasons for the incorrect operation of the spotlight:

unstable electrical network (voltage drops beyond the operating current);
short circuit of a phase to the device case or to neutral;
incorrect connection;
overvoltage;
use of overcurrents.

With these violations, the failure of the board on which drivers, voltage and current converters are installed, supplying power to the matrix crystals, is possible. In a searchlight matrix, damage from 3 to 5 crystals is allowed. If the number of faulty crystals is greater, the floodlight will not be able to work with a sufficient degree of functionality and the matrix will need to be replaced.

First of all, it is necessary to establish the cause of the malfunction of the LED floodlight. As an example, let's talk about testing the performance of a rectangular Volpe floodlight with a matrix including 9 diodes. The total power of the luminaire is 10 W. The luminous flux is 750 lm.

The check is carried out in the following order:

Examine the wiring for physical integrity. Check the absence of breaks, burnt insulation, cable bends. The goal is to ensure that there are no breaks in the conductor.
The body of the device, as well as the LED matrix, are checked for mechanical damage (deformation, chips, cracks).
The next task is to check the input voltage by opening the back panel of the case. The input voltage must be 220V AC. If there is no voltage, the cause of the breakdown is not in the luminaire, but in the electrical circuit. Measurements are carried out with a standard multimeter. The output voltage is 12 VDC.

If there is no output voltage, the fault is looked for on the converter board. They inspect the contacts for oxidation, look for cracks in the tin coating in the areas of soldering or burnt-out elements.
If the above verification methods do not give a result, the matrix is tested for performance.

Eliminating wire breaks does not require special skills from a home craftsman. It is much more difficult to find and fix a breakdown on a printed circuit board, driver, voltage converter or matrix. You cannot do without special knowledge. You will also need the ability to work with diagnostic devices and a soldering iron.

The following parts may be subject to repair or replacement:

limiting capacitor;
power unit;
driver;
matrix.

This component is the cause of a malfunction when the spotlight lamp does not burn evenly, constantly flickering. This problem is usually connected with the fact that manufacturers, trying to save money, install a current limiter that does not match the driver's characteristics.

A common reason for the malfunctioning of a floodlight is a breakdown of the power supply.In such a situation, you can purchase a new power supply unit or pick up this part from another device (for example, from a printer). If you decide to buy a new unit, it is recommended to take it with you to the store, since its technical characteristics are indicated on the case. To get the block, you first need to disassemble the spotlight.

Low-power models often lack a power supply. In such cases, an LED-type driver is used instead of the unit. Since the diode is not able to receive power directly from the network (an alternating current is needed, different from the network one), then the driver is involved. The device operates based on operating temperature and time by varying the output current to the LED.

To replace the driver, disassemble the floodlight to set the technical parameters of the driver, and then contact the store. Just as with the power supply, you can select the appropriate driver from another device.

The most common cause of floodlight malfunctioning is overheating of the sensor, which leads to blown fuses. The searchlight is disassembled, after which the damaged matrix is taken out. To do this, unscrew four screws and unsolder the conductive parts. Next, a layer of thermal paste is applied to the LED and the conductive parts are soldered back. The operation is completed by screwing the matrix into place.

In some cases, the wiring in the die goes through the holes in the substrate. It acts as a matrix heatsink. In the transition areas, the wires must be covered with an insulating layer (first of all, we are talking about the plus wire). This will avoid a short circuit to the device case.

Advice! Before replacing the matrix, clean the substrate and the area where it will be installed. It is recommended to treat these places with a heat-conducting compound.

The shape of the matrix cannot be violated. It is recommended to use only "native" screws in order not to damage the structure. Also, do not forget about the polarity: red wires - plus, black or blue - minus, green-yellow wire is directed to the case.

If at least 2-3 burned-out diodes are found, you should not wait for the matrix to completely burn out. In any case, the device is no longer able to function normally, as a result of which the drivers and the voltage converter will soon fail.

Note! If the matrix does not work with the filled compound element, it cannot be restored.

If, when checking the board, obvious signs of burnt-out elements are found, the device will need to be repaired. The figure below shows the converter circuit for the spotlight.

Before replacing inoperative parts, the LEDs should ring. First, one of the legs of the board is unsoldered, since ringing the soldered elements will not give the correct result. If necessary, burned-out parts are replaced with new ones.

As an example, consider the repair of the SDO01-10 floodlight. The power of the device is 10 W. Visual inspection shows peeling of the protective coating on one of the floodlights. There are also dark spots on the light emitting surface of the matrix.

Repair of a matrix with a damaged LED emitter is possible, but such a part is not cheap. The cost reaches 40-50% of the price of the whole floodlight. In addition, the acquisition of a new matrix presents another difficulty - LEDs often lack markings. As a result, it is not easy to find out the type of emitter.

To simplify the task, we install the driver of the floodlight from the burned-out matrix to the luminaire with a working matrix. On the old driver, the protective resistor has burned out (its nominal value is 1 Ohm), which indicates a breakdown of the diode in the diode bridge at the transition from the key resistor to the control resistor. However, replacing the driver did not restore the functionality of the spotlight.

After further verification, a break in the optical feedback pair was detected. Replacing the pair gave a result - the lamp worked.

The subject of consideration is a model of a powerful searchlight SDO01-30. Devices of this type are used to illuminate large rooms (for example, for industrial purposes).

First, we remove the rear panel from the spotlight and carry out a visual check of the state of the radio components on the printed circuit board. We pay attention to elements that have a suspicious appearance (carbon deposits, deformations, etc.).

Next, we inspect the printed circuit board (by pulling it out of the spotlight) from the semiconductor side. Inspection showed the presence of a pair of blown resistors: R8 (2 ohms) and R22 (1 ohm). Low resistance resistors most often burn out due to the high current passing through them in the event of breakdown of semiconductors or capacitors.

Next to the resistors is the field-effect transistor SFV4N65F. The ringing has identified its malfunction. Since the searchlight circuit was not available, we find out the values of the resistors that burned out by disassembling a working lamp of the same model.

We solder the failed resistors, as well as the transistor. We replace them with new parts.

Some helpful tips for repairing LED floodlights:

When replacing a matrix, be sure to pay attention to the polarity.
It is imperative to remove cured heat transfer paste underneath the die.
Degrease the surface with alcohol.
When soldering, there is no need to overheat the surface. Soldering time - up to 2 seconds. If the matrix is overheated, the crystals will be destroyed or their new characteristics will not allow the projector to function normally.

To repair a high-power floodlight, the knowledge used in the repair of low-power fixtures is enough. There are no special differences between devices of different capacities.

If the matrix with a large number of diodes is not filled with a compound solution, it will be necessary to replace the inoperative diode. A microsoldering iron is required to complete the operation. You need to work carefully so as not to overheat the crystals.

If it is impossible to see the denominations on the burned-out resistances, you cannot do without instructions for the searchlight. It must contain the relevant data.

Video (click to play).

Anyone can fix a spotlight. However, repair work requires at least basic knowledge of electrical engineering, as well as skills in handling a soldering iron and multimeter. You also need to be able to read diagrams in order to understand the design of a spotlight.