DIY 50w LED floodlight repair

Repair of LED floodlights is one of the main services provided by our company.

We also carry out warranty and post-warranty repairs of our own LED floodlights, as well as repair of third-party floodlights, taking into account the recommendations set out below.

The repair period depends on the workload of our workshop, but, as a rule, does not exceed one or two days. Often it is possible to repair a searchlight even on the same day.

Our answer is Yes, but only if during the repair, spare parts for LED floodlights that are consistent with each other in terms of volt-ampere characteristics are used.

Choosing a mistake can be expensive!

There are two main parts in an LED floodlight - a matrix (light source) and a driver (power supply) for this matrix. Both of these parts are almost always non-separable, and in the event of a breakdown, one or both of them must be replaced. Matrices, as well as drivers, in an LED floodlight can be installed several, usually from one to four.

Owners of cheap and low-quality LED floodlights often face their failure, following a very short time after purchase and installation.

This is expressed in the fact that the spotlight blinks, burns dimly or does not burn at all. Any of the symptoms indicates the need for diagnosis and repair.

You can always buy spare parts for LED floodlights necessary for repairs from us:

Many people mistakenly believe that spare parts for floodlights are universal and, for example, any matrix with a nominal power of twenty watts will fit a twenty-watt driver.

This is by no means the case! In order to revive your bright friend, you need to select those spare parts for the LED floodlight that coincide in current and operating voltage range.

A mistake in the choice can lead to the fact that the repair will end with a quick burnout of the matrix, or the failure of the driver (less often), or the matrix simply will not light up.

TAUREY LED matrices are fully compatible with the corresponding power supplies (drivers), and their joint work will be reliable and long-term.

Therefore, when choosing spare parts for repairing an LED floodlight, the most correct solution would be to replace the matrix and driver in pairs.

If you own a soldering iron and at least the most basic knowledge in radio electronics, then repair (replacement of the driver and / or matrix) of the LED floodlight will not be a problem for you.

But it must be borne in mind that on the basis of only an external examination of a faulty floodlight, it is impossible to make an unambiguous conclusion about which part is out of order... For example, the flickering of the matrix of an LED floodlight can be caused both by a malfunction of the matrix itself and the driver. To accurately determine the source of the problem, diagnostics are needed - at least, the matrix and the driver of the problematic spotlight should be connected in pairs to the same, but known good driver / matrix.

The main points to pay attention to during the repair process:

1. correspondence of the current-voltage characteristics of the driver and the matrix;
2. the matrix can be installed only for thermal grease;
3. tightness of final assembly.

Improperly performed repairs can lead to additional costs. Here is an example - according to the client, the floodlight was repaired four months ago by the "craftsmen" from the radio market, who replaced the LED matrix.However, during the assembly, the tightness was broken, and the photographs show the consequences of only four months of outdoor operation.

Photos of the insides of the LED floodlight after four months of operation after a poorly made repair - the tightness was broken

This floodlight was restored, but in addition to thorough cleaning, both the driver and the matrix had to be changed.

The cost of the repair depends on what exactly needs to be replaced in the LED spotlight: a matrix, a driver, or all at once, and it actually consists of the cost of spare parts and a small fee for diagnostics.

Diagnostics of a spotlight malfunction costs from 200 rubles (for LED spotlights less than 100 watts of power) to 400 rubles (for spotlights 100 or more watts). The cost of diagnostics does not depend on the number of matrices and power supplies in the projector.

The cost of repair work (disassembly, cleaning, replacement of parts, soldering, assembly) - completely freeif our spare parts are used in the repair process: matrices and / or power supplies.

Thus, for the repair of an LED floodlight, you only have to pay the price of the used spare part (s) and 200 rubles for diagnostics (400 rubles for powerful floodlights). The prices of matrices and power supplies are indicated on the website and are current.

To estimate the cost of repairs, contact us:

• call the multichannel phone + 7495 789 8270;
• write a letter describing the problem by email;
• send a message from the site.

You asked - we answered

• There are 3 LED lamps available, each has its own power source - 3 drivers with characteristics: output - DC 24 - 45V / 300mA + -5% / 14W. Can I connect 3 lamps in parallel and connect them to a power supply: DC 28-38 volts, 1500mA, 50W?Most likely, it will work, but with an obvious overcurrent on the matrices. The matrices will eventually fail. How quickly is difficult to say, perhaps very quickly.
  In addition, such a connection will not have a good effect on the driver either.
• LED floodlight ASD brand SDO-2-10 began to blink after a year of operation. What is the reason, what would you advise to change?
  LED floodlight ASD brand SDO-2-20 does not light, although it worked for about 2 years at night. I measured a voltage of about 50 volts on the matrix. What, the matrix burned out? In general, how to check if it is working properly?Although we are not familiar with the indicated brands of floodlights, judging by the description, these are standard single-matrix floodlights of 10 and 20 watts.
  Sometimes it is easy to diagnose a malfunction of an LED floodlight, sometimes it is more difficult.
  Let's start with the second case.
• Is it possible to replace the DC28-38V 600 mA power supply with a DC22-40V 900mA in a 20 watt floodlight? The driver fits into the case.Technically, such a replacement of the power supply is possible. A spotlight with a more powerful power supply will work. But the life of the matrix and, probably, the power supply will suffer.
• Is it permissible to install a 100W driver and a 100W LED array in a 50W LED floodlight housing? Is there enough cooling? Thank you in advanceUnfortunately, the design of some of the 50-watt floodlights sold in Russia does not allow even the standard matrix to be cooled properly. We do not claim that this is your case, but nevertheless it is a fact.
  In addition, the driver, most likely, will not fit - 100 watts is significantly more.
• Hello! What should I do? In the presence of 18 floodlights of 20 watts. They need to be installed in a pit, but for safety reasons, 220 volts cannot be there - only 12, 24 or 36.
  It is supposed to be divided into zones of 6 luminaires.
  What's the best way to install three 120W drivers per zone? Or one powerful driver for everything at once?
  The drivers were standing: Vout: DC20-43V, Lout: 600mA MODEL: 20600, with my multimeter I intended 34.8v at the driver output when the lamp was connected. Thanks in advance!Judging by the characteristics, the lighting is organized by conventional single-matrix LED floodlights with a power of 20 watts.
  There are two ways to lower the voltage to 12, 24 or 36 volts.
• Is it permissible to connect two 50 W power supplies in parallel to a 100 W LED matrix in a spotlight? Thank you in advance.No, such a connection of power supplies is absolutely not permissible.
  Power supplies stabilize the current in the circuit by varying the output voltage. When connected in pairs, each driver will become an active load for the other, and the behavior of the entire system will be unpredictable.
• It seems that the PSFL100 driver is suitable for us to replace the Chinese one. I would like to clarify what is stabilized - current or voltage? We need a driver with a stable current of 3000mA +/- 5%.
  Chinese driver model LZ 220 V 100 W with DC characteristics: 30 - 36 V, 3000 mA +/- 5%.These are LED drivers, respectively, the current is stabilized, of course.
  The PSFL100 fits your needs and should fit. A slightly wider range of output voltages of our driver (by 2 volts in each side) should not create problems; rather, on the contrary, it will add stability.

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Although LED technology (including floodlights) is highly reliable, it also sometimes fails. Repair of LED floodlights allows you to eliminate most of the faults when you need to restore the device to work. Repair work is relevant not only when the device does not shine brightly enough, but also if it completely stops working.

LED floodlight (LED) contains the following components:

• LEDs (provide a glow);
• drivers (control the operation of the device);
• frame;
• light diffuser (allows you to increase the efficiency of the luminaire);
• lenses (control the shape, color and some other characteristics of the light flux).

The floodlight functions thanks to the coordinated actions of several of its components, including optics, power supply, drivers and heat sinks. In the inner part of the case, there are light diodes, as well as small-sized electronic components. The power supply supplies voltage to the LEDs, where the current is transformed into a luminous flux. Thanks to these actions, the glow of the device is ensured.

The figure below shows a typical wiring diagram for an electron gun driver.

As for the principle of the driver's operation, it does not differ on different floodlights. Power from the mains is supplied to the driver input, bypassing the fuse F1. Further, there is filtration using LC-elements and rectification due to a diode bridge. Smoothing is carried out by an electrolytic capacitor (C13). A constant voltage (280 V) is generated across the capacitor terminals.

From the electrolytic capacitor, the voltage is directed through current-limiting resistors to the zener diode (D12) and pin No. 6 of the described microcircuit. The zener diode is responsible for the 9-volt power supply of the microcircuit, which is the main factor that ensures the functioning of the driver. From the capacitor C13, the current flows through the transformer winding (T1.1) through the terminal part of the field-effect transistor (Q1).

Note! The amount of current flowing through the light diodes depends on the parameters of the resistance of the resistors on the microcircuit.

The most common signs of a malfunctioning spotlight are:

• the lamp does not light up although the power is on;
• light diode flickers;
• the glow is too dim, since the lamp burns weakly - not at full power;
• the shade of the light flux has become unnatural.

Other signs may also be present, including physical damage to the structure of the case, deformation of the diode, and burned out electrical wiring.

Possible reasons for the incorrect operation of the spotlight:

• unstable electrical network (voltage drops beyond the operating current);
• short circuit of a phase to the device case or to neutral;
• incorrect connection;
• overvoltage;
• use of overcurrents.

With these violations, the failure of the board on which the drivers, voltage and current converters are installed, supplying power to the matrix crystals, is possible. In a searchlight matrix, damage from 3 to 5 crystals is allowed. If the number of faulty crystals is greater, the floodlight will not be able to work with a sufficient degree of functionality and the matrix will need to be replaced.

First of all, it is necessary to establish the cause of the malfunction of the LED floodlight. As an example, let's talk about testing the performance of a rectangular Volpe floodlight with a matrix including 9 diodes. The total power of the luminaire is 10 W. The luminous flux is 750 lm.

The check is carried out in the following order:

1. Examine the wiring for physical integrity. Check the absence of breaks, burnt insulation, cable bends. The goal is to ensure that there are no breaks in the conductor.
2. The body of the device, as well as the LED matrix, are checked for mechanical damage (deformation, chips, cracks).
3. The next task is to check the input voltage by opening the back panel of the case. The input voltage must be 220V AC. If there is no voltage, the cause of the breakdown is not in the luminaire, but in the electrical circuit. Measurements are carried out with a standard multimeter. The output voltage is 12 VDC.

1. If there is no output voltage, the fault is looked for on the converter board. They inspect the contacts for oxidation, look for cracks in the tin coating in the areas of soldering or burnt-out elements.
2. If the above verification methods do not give a result, the matrix is ​​tested for performance.

Eliminating wire breaks does not require special skills from a home craftsman. It is much more difficult to find and fix a breakdown on a printed circuit board, driver, voltage converter or matrix. You cannot do without special knowledge. You will also need the ability to work with diagnostic devices and a soldering iron.

The following parts may be subject to repair or replacement:

• limiting capacitor;
• power unit;
• driver;
• matrix.

This component is the cause of a malfunction when the spotlight lamp does not burn evenly, constantly flickering. This problem is usually connected with the fact that manufacturers, trying to save money, install a current limiter that does not match the driver's characteristics.

A common reason for the malfunctioning of a floodlight is a breakdown of the power supply. In such a situation, you can purchase a new power supply unit or pick up this part from another device (for example, from a printer). If you decide to buy a new unit, it is recommended to take it with you to the store, since its technical characteristics are indicated on the case. To get the block, you first need to disassemble the spotlight.

Low-power models often lack a power supply. In such cases, an LED-type driver is used instead of the unit. Since the diode is not able to receive power directly from the network (alternating current is needed, different from the mains), then the driver is involved. The device operates based on operating temperature and time by varying the output current to the LED.

To replace the driver, disassemble the floodlight to set the technical parameters of the driver, and then contact the store. Just as with the power supply, you can select the appropriate driver from another device.

The most common cause of floodlight malfunctioning is overheating of the sensor, which leads to blown fuses. The searchlight is disassembled, after which the damaged matrix is ​​taken out.To do this, unscrew four screws and unsolder the conductive parts. Next, a layer of thermal paste is applied to the LED and the conductive parts are soldered back. The operation is completed by screwing the matrix into place.

In some cases, the wiring in the die goes through the holes in the substrate. It acts as a matrix heatsink. In the transition areas, the wires must be covered with an insulating layer (first of all, we are talking about the plus wire). This will avoid a short circuit to the device case.

Advice! Before replacing the matrix, clean the substrate and the area where it will be installed. It is recommended to treat these places with a heat-conducting compound.

The shape of the matrix cannot be violated. It is recommended to use only "native" screws in order not to damage the structure. Also, do not forget about the polarity: red wires - plus, black or blue - minus, green-yellow wire is directed to the case.

If at least 2-3 burned-out diodes are found, you should not wait for the matrix to completely burn out. In any case, the device is no longer able to function normally, as a result of which the drivers and the voltage converter will soon fail.

Note! If the matrix does not work with the filled compound element, it cannot be restored.

If, when checking the board, obvious signs of burnt-out elements are found, the device will need to be repaired. The figure below shows the converter circuit for the spotlight.

Before replacing inoperative parts, the LEDs should ring. First, one of the legs of the board is unsoldered, since ringing the soldered elements will not give the correct result. If necessary, burned-out parts are replaced with new ones.

As an example, consider the repair of the SDO01-10 floodlight. The power of the device is 10 W. Visual inspection shows peeling of the protective coating on one of the floodlights. There are also dark spots on the light emitting surface of the matrix.

Repair of a matrix with a damaged LED emitter is possible, but such a part is not cheap. The cost reaches 40-50% of the price of the whole floodlight. In addition, the acquisition of a new matrix presents another difficulty - LEDs often lack markings. As a result, it is not easy to find out the type of emitter.

To simplify the task, we install the driver of the floodlight from the burned-out matrix to the luminaire with a working matrix. On the old driver, the protective resistor has burned out (its nominal value is 1 Ohm), which indicates a breakdown of the diode in the diode bridge at the transition from the key resistor to the control resistor. However, replacing the driver did not restore the functionality of the spotlight.

After further verification, a break in the optical feedback pair was detected. Replacing the pair gave a result - the lamp worked.

The subject of consideration is a model of a powerful searchlight SDO01-30. Devices of this type are used to illuminate large rooms (for example, for industrial purposes).

First, we remove the rear panel from the spotlight and carry out a visual check of the state of the radio components on the printed circuit board. We pay attention to elements that have a suspicious appearance (carbon deposits, deformations, etc.).

Next, we inspect the printed circuit board (by pulling it out of the spotlight) from the semiconductor side. Inspection showed the presence of a pair of blown resistors: R8 (2 ohms) and R22 (1 ohm). Low resistance resistors most often burn out due to the high current passing through them in the event of a breakdown of semiconductors or capacitors.

Next to the resistors is the field-effect transistor SFV4N65F. The ringing has identified its malfunction. Since the searchlight circuit was not available, we find out the values ​​of the resistors that burned out by disassembling a working lamp of the same model.

We solder the failed resistors, as well as the transistor. We replace them with new parts.

Some helpful tips for repairing LED floodlights:

1. When replacing a matrix, be sure to pay attention to the polarity.
2. It is imperative to remove cured heat transfer paste underneath the die.
3. Degrease the surface with alcohol.
4. When soldering, there is no need to overheat the surface. Soldering time - up to 2 seconds. If the matrix is ​​overheated, the crystals will be destroyed or their new characteristics will not allow the projector to function normally.

1. To repair a high-power floodlight, the knowledge used in the repair of low-power fixtures is enough. There are no special differences between devices of different capacities.
2. If the matrix with a large number of diodes is not filled with a compound solution, it will be necessary to replace the inoperative diode. A microsoldering iron is required to complete the operation. You need to work carefully so as not to overheat the crystals.
3. If it is impossible to see the denominations on the burned-out resistances, you cannot do without instructions for the searchlight. It must contain the relevant data.

Anyone can fix a spotlight. However, repair work requires at least basic knowledge of electrical engineering, as well as skills in handling a soldering iron and multimeter. You also need to be able to read diagrams in order to understand the design of a spotlight.

LED Spotlight. DIY repair theory and practice.

LED floodlights are very popular today. But, like any electronics, spotlights break down relatively often.

Today's article will be devoted to the repair of LED floodlights with your own hands.

The entire theory and terminology for the device of LED floodlights is described in the previous article, and here is the practice for home craftsmen.

First of all, you need to make sure that 220 V power is supplied to the driver. This is Azy. Then it remains to decide what is faulty - the LED driver or the LED matrix.

Let me remind you that the word “driver” is a marketing ploy to designate a current source designed for a specific matrix with a specific current and power.

In order to check the driver without an LED (idle, no load), just apply 220V to its input. A constant voltage should appear at the output, a value slightly greater than the upper limit indicated on the block.

For example, if the range of 28-38 V is indicated on the driver unit, then when turned on, its idle output voltage will be approximately 40V. This is due to the principle of operation of the circuit - to maintain the current in a given range of ± 5%, with an increase in the load resistance (idle = infinity), the voltage must also increase. Naturally, not indefinitely, but up to a certain upper limit.

However, this test method does not allow us to judge the health of the LED driver by 100%.

The fact is that there are serviceable blocks that, when turned on without load, without load, either will not start at all, or will give out something incomprehensible.

I suggest connecting a load resistor to the output of the LED driver in order to provide it with the desired operating mode. How to choose a resistor - according to Uncle Ohm's law, looking at what is written on the driver.

LED - driver 20 W. Stable output current 600 mA, voltage 23-35 V.

For example, if Output 23-35 VDC 600 mA is written, then the resistance of the resistor will be from 23 / 0.6 = 38 Ohm to 35 / 0.6 = 58 Ohm. Choose from a range of resistances: 39, 43, 47, 51, 56 Ohm. The power must be adequate. But if you take 5 W, then it will be enough for a few seconds to check.

Attention! The driver output is usually galvanically isolated from the 220V network. However, you should be careful - there may not be a transformer in cheap circuits!

If, when connecting the required resistor, the output voltage is within the specified limits, we conclude that the LED driver is working properly.

For testing, you can use a laboratory power supply, something like this. We supply a voltage that is obviously lower than the nominal value. We control the current. The LED matrix should light up.

We control the current further and carefully increase the voltage so that the current reaches its nominal value. The matrix will glow at full brightness. We confirm that it is 100% serviceable.

There are situations where there is an LED chip, but its wattage, current, and voltage are unknown. Accordingly, it is difficult to buy it, and if it is in good working order, it is not clear how to choose an adapter.

This was a big problem for me until I figured it out. I am sharing with you how to determine by the appearance of the LED assembly what voltage, power and current it is.

For example, we have a spotlight with the following LED assembly:

9 diodes. 10 W, 300 mA. In fact - 9 W, but this is within the margin of error.

It gave the fact that diodes with a power of 1 W are used in the LED matrices of the floodlights. The current of such diodes is 300 ... 330 mA. Naturally, all this is approximately, within the margin of error, but in practice it works exactly.

In this matrix, 9 diodes are connected in series, their current is one (300 mA), and the voltage is 3 Volts. As a result, the total voltage is 3x9 = 27 volts. For such matrices, you need a driver with a current of 300 mA, a voltage of about 27V (usually from 20 to 36V). The power of one such diode, as I said, is about 9 watts, but for marketing purposes this floodlight will be at a power of 10 watts.

The 10 W example is a bit atypical due to the special arrangement of the LEDs.

Another example, more typical:

LED assembly for 20W floodlight

You have already guessed that two horizontal rows of dots of 10 pieces each are LEDs. One strip is offhand 30 Volts, current 300 mA. Two strips connected in parallel - voltage 30 V, current twice as much, 600 mA.

5 rows (zig-zag) of 10 LEDs.

Total - 50 W, current 300x5 = 1500 mA.

Matrix 7 rows of 10 LEDs

Total - 70 W, 300x7 = 2100 mA.

I think it makes no sense to continue, everything is already clear.

It's a little different with LED modules based on discrete diodes. According to my calculations, one diode there, as a rule, has a power of 0.5 watts. Here is an example of a GT50390 matrix installed in a 50W floodlight:

Navigator LED floodlight, 50 W. GT50390 LED Module - 90 Discrete Diodes

If, according to my assumptions, the power of such diodes is 0.5 W, then the power of the entire module should be 45 W. Its circuit will be the same, 9 lines of 10 diodes with a total voltage of about 30 V. The operating current of one diode is 150 ... 170 mA, the total current of the module is 1350 ... 1500.

Who has other thoughts on this matter - you are welcome in the comments!

It is better to start repairs by looking for an electrical circuit of the Led driver.

Typically, LED floodlight drivers are built on the MT7930 ASIC. In the article about the Device of searchlights, I gave a photo of the board (non-waterproof) based on this microcircuit, again:

Navigator LED floodlight, 50 W. Driver. GT503F board

Navigator LED floodlight, 50 W. Driver. Soldering side view

Attention! Information on driver circuits and a little more on repair is in a separate article!

There are no special tricks when replacing the LED matrix, but you need to pay attention to the following things.

• carefully remove old heat transfer paste,
• apply heat transfer paste to the new LED. It is best to do this with a plastic card,
• fix the diode evenly, without distortions,
• remove excess paste,
• do not mix up the polarity,
• do not overheat when soldering.

The reverse side of the LED matrix, on which the heat-conducting paste is applied during installation

When repairing an LED module consisting of discrete diodes, first of all, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the soldering. And then check each diode by supplying it with a voltage of 2.3 - 2.8 V.

If you need quick repairs, then it is best, of course, to run to the store across the street.

But if you are engaged in renovation on an ongoing basis, then it is better to look where it is cheaper. I recommend doing this on the well-known Aliexpress website.

This concludes. I call on my colleagues to share their experience and ask questions!

Hello.Thanks for the scheme, I have been looking for it for a long time, but it was all wrong. How many matrices I put with aliexpress, everything burned out in about a month. The reason for this is the poor quality of the matrices themselves. For example, a 50-watt matrix, a current consumption of 1.3 amperes, a voltage of 37-38 volts, received about 50 watts. But the temperature on the matrix installed in the floodlight reaches 93 degrees, which is critical. The result is deplorable in a month. ... For treatment, I reduce the current to 0.9-1 amperes, the temperature drops to 70 degrees, this is already normal.

Yes, you need to read the reviews carefully before buying. And do not chase cheap prices.

Alexey, in what way do you reduce the current? Is in the driver or is there a resistor in series?

A resistor in series, is it a 50-watt one?

And we recently bought a spotlight, everything is wired into one chip, there is no separate driver. I took it only because I didn't want unnecessary problems with driver breakdowns. Glanzen spotlights seem to be, but I don't remember exactly.

That is, a monolith with a diode is connected to 220, and that's it?

It looks like there are RGB LEDs with a built-in chip that smoothly switches three colors. In appearance and size, it is an ordinary two-pin white LED.

Yes, there are LED matrices

220v.
For example

Here's another,
LED technology is developing dynamically. For example, recently two Korean companies - LEDStudio and POWERLIGHTEC - have released new LEDs with a built-in current stabilization driver and a zener diode.
This solution eliminates the need to stabilize the input supply current. The LED performs this operation itself. The input voltage of this LED is 11-18V, which makes it possible to use them, for example, in car headlights.

Why not.
The zener diode must be powerful and connected in series with the LED matrix.

The driver did not have to be repaired yet, so I wanted to find out if something in the driver's circuit burns when the fuse blows? At work, you often have to deal with burnt out electronic ballasts. They usually burn transistors and their strapping, although there are fuse resistors in the strapping to protect the transistors. It seems that the fuse burns out (not always!) After the transistors burn out; logically, it should be the other way around.

Typically transistors and diode bridges.
Also, with voltage surges, the microcircuit may burn out.

It's clear. In general, such devices as in the first diagram need to be refined, varistors (as in the second diagram) or suppressors and ... a fuse must be installed, otherwise it was at work, I found a couple of devices (thermostat and time relay) with burnt out varistors and UPS, i.e. e. the protection was on, but there were no fuses inside. Apparently the manufacturers are designed for an external fuse or an automatic device (so that they do not climb inside!), But who installed these devices did not know.

I regulate the current by removing the resistor in the piping of the microcircuit, usually I limit myself to one, the power drops from 50 to 30 watts, each matrix has a different consumption current.

Is it the resistors Rs which are from the source of the transistor?

Despite the fact that LED technology is very reliable, it cannot be perfect and sometimes fails. Especially if you decided to save a lot and bought one of the cheapest floodlights. So what to do if your LED spotlight flickers and blinks, or even worse - stopped working altogether, and your warranty for the purchased product ended, or did not start at all. It is possible that you purchased a non-certified product in a reliable store with a good reputation, and at your own risk and risk ordered the most budgetary LED floodlight directly from China, through Aliexpress, for example? And here in front of you lies and blinks or does not shine at all, a far from cheap lighting device, and you do not know what to do? Don't give up. In this article we will tell you how to repair the device yourself.

In order to repair the LED processor with your own hands, you must confidently hold a multimeter (in the picture below) and a soldering iron in your hands. This is necessary in order to be able to determine the cause of the breakdown, and, in fact, eventually eliminate it, bringing the device back to life.

So, first of all, you need to determine the cause of the malfunction of your device. If the spotlight turns on, but when it is on does not burn evenly, but flickers and blinks, the current-limiting capacitor C1 is probably out of order. Many Chinese manufacturers sin by using a current-limiting capacitor that is not suitable for the driver in terms of parameters, trying to achieve maximum brightness from a not very powerful floodlight. A current limiting capacitor of 400 volts rated operating voltage is fine.

Another common cause may be the failure of the power supply. There are two ways out of the situation - contact an electronics store, where they will help you choose a suitable power supply unit (its characteristics are indicated on it, therefore, it is advisable to disassemble the spotlight and take the unit with you), or select a power supply unit (it can come from a scanner or printer).

The second option is possible, of course, only if you suddenly have unnecessary and non-working office equipment lying around, which can serve as a power supply donor. Check the power supplies so that they are similar in parameters. An exact match is not required, but the parameters should not diverge much. As mentioned earlier, if you have the skills to use tools and an understanding of electronics, you can easily change the power supply yourself.

If a low-power floodlight needs repair, it is likely that it may not have its own power supply, and the LED driver performs the function of changing the currents in it. Since the LED cannot be powered directly from the mains, requiring an alternating current that differs from what the mains can offer it, a driver is used in the floodlight device that takes into account the spread of the LED characteristics depending on the operating temperature and time, correcting the current supplied to the LED at the output ... It is this driver that can fail.

To replace it, it will be necessary to disassemble the LED floodlight and find out the driver marking in order to buy or order a replacement. If you are a confident user of a power tool, you can find the failed driver element and unsolder it and replace it. If you are repairing a DIY LED floodlight, most likely it will be easy enough for you to find the problem in the driver or find a similar driver and replace it. It will definitely be cheaper than buying or assembling a new floodlight from scratch.

Another option for the failure of the design of your LED floodlight, in addition to a malfunction of the driver, power supply or other small elements involved in the current conversion process, may be the burnout of the LED matrix itself. In case of failure of the LED itself, it is necessary to find and purchase a diode of similar characteristics. After disassembling the spotlight, you will need to carefully uninstall the burned-out matrix by unscrewing the four fastening screws and unsoldering the conductive elements. Then you will need to evenly and carefully apply a layer of thermal paste to the new diode, solder the current-carrying elements and carefully screw the matrix. It should be noted that the shape of the matrix must remain intact, that is, it is advisable to use the same screws that were used initially. They should not have tapered heads, as when using them, if you tighten them with a little more force, they can damage the die, and all your work will be for nothing.

To repair an LED spotlight yourself, you must at least have a good command of working with a soldering iron, testers and a multimeter, as well as understand the circuits or be able to read them in order to find the cause of the malfunction, evaporate the faulty element and replace it.

If a driver or a power supply unit is out of order in your spotlight, you can pick up a replacement and bring the lighting fixture back to life. Just as with the driver, replacement can be done with an LED matrix - just buy an analogue with similar characteristics. If for some reason after your manipulations the device did not work, it probably makes sense to purchase a new one. But if you are confident in your abilities, you can always assemble an LED floodlight with your own hands - it will be easier to repair it in the future, or replace some elements, constantly extending the life of the device.