DIY LED lamp repair corn

Despite the huge variety of electric lighting devices, high efficiency and maximum long service life allow LEDs to significantly outperform competitors.

It is these light sources that are preferred today by residents of many countries of the world, however, mass production also generates great demand. Not all manufacturers are conscientious about technologies and recommendations, which leads to rapid burnout of products. Constantly buying new devices is more expensive. In such situations, DIY repair of LED lamps is required.

Do not be intimidated and immediately close the article - after reading the information below, you will understand that even an unskilled person without work experience can handle such work. An assembled LED lamp or lamp is an expensive product, but it will not be difficult to buy a burned-out part separately.

When starting to repair something, first you should carefully study the device and the principle of operation of the equipment. Regardless of the appearance and the LEDs used, each lamp, including the filament, is designed according to the same electrical circuit. Remove the case of the product and inside you will see a driver - an electronic board to which various radio components are attached.

Any LED lamp functions according to the same principle. The supply voltage is supplied to the contacts of the electric socket and is transmitted to the output of the conventional lamp base (E27 or other format). There can be several such conclusions. Two wires are soldered to them, through which the voltage goes to the input of the electronic board. The driver converts the AC voltage to DC, usually lowering it, and then transfers it to another electronic board with LEDs.

A driver is an electronic unit that generates and converts current with voltage into those values ​​that are sufficient for the operation of LEDs. In more expensive products, the board is hidden under diffusing glass for protection.

The most simple circuit for a LED lamp connected to a 220 V network includes a driver consisting of two damping resistors that stabilize the voltage. The LED diodes are connected in different directions, which guarantees perfect protection against reverse voltage. In this case, the flicker frequency increases from 50 to 100 Hz.

For example, to connect the LED strip to the base, two wires are soldered. The ends of these wires are subsequently connected to the ends of the LED strip. The electric circuit of the positive wire includes a capacitor with a parallel connected resistor and passes through the positive part of the diode bridge, and the negative wire circuit - a resistor and is connected to the negative part of the diode bridge. A second "capacitor-resistor" unit is installed between the diode bridge and the LED strip, connected to both wires.

Simply put, the supply voltage passes through a limiting capacitor and enters the diode bridge, and from there to the LED elements. By replacing the LED with a rectifier diode, you will not double, but will lower the voltage - from 50 to 25 Hz. In this situation, the flickering of the product will become sensitive, harmful to the visual organs, leading to rapid fatigue and migraines.

Not all products are easy and simple to disassemble without damaging the component parts. Try to rotate the top of the case. If all else fails, you will have to use a solvent. Draw some solvent into a syringe and squeeze out along the seam through a needle.Wait about 5 to 10 minutes, then repeat the operation.

Repeat the steps at least three times, then start twisting the upper body in different directions to swing it. When the bulb is removed, clean the inner walls by removing the sealant and degreasing the surfaces. If the device will be used in a room with a low level of humidity, no sealant will be applied.

The service life of any product, including LED lamps, depends on the conditions of use, compliance with the rules and recommendations prescribed by the manufacturers.

There are many reasons due to which the service life specified by the manufacturer does not correspond to reality: the use of low-quality crystals and an incorrect assessment of the performance, since the conditions of real operation almost always differ from the potential ones.

Let's list the main reasons for the failure of LED products:

To extend the life of LED lamps and improve the quality of the glow, try to eliminate or reduce to a minimum the influence of the above factors. Entrust the installation of electrical wiring to the masters, create the most comfortable and acceptable conditions for using the products.

A good device will have straight edges. It is not always possible to assess the quality of the crystals used, so try to buy lamps in trusted stores from brand manufacturers.

Another option to extend the life of an LED light bulb is to use a dimmer that regulates the luminous flux. It is important to buy dimmable devices in advance or upgrade existing ones yourself. A dimmer will allow you to lower the starting current: the lower the value, the better.

The LED lamp can be repaired regardless of the cause of failure. To do this, you need to disassemble the product into parts and get to the filling. To begin with, a diffuser is removed, which performs several functions. The component is either secured to the base through a sealant or held in place with a snap. If the element will rotate separately from the body, it is enough to press in the right place to remove it.

Above, it was described what to do if the diffuser is securely glued to the body. Add to the use of a solvent the ability to remove the case with a thin screwdriver: gently pry it off without applying great force.

LED lamps with glass bulbs are unrepairable, since it is almost impossible to remove such a diffuser without damage.

In rooms with a high level of humidity, low voltage lighting devices are used - 12 or 24 V, which are connected to a general electrical network of 220 V. To reduce the high voltage of alternating current to the required constant values, stabilizing power supplies are used, which may fail.

The reason for the breakdown of the power supply may be an increased load (if the total power of the used lamps exceeds the allowable for the stabilizer) or an incorrectly selected degree of protection against the ingress of dust and moisture (IP). To fix these products, you should contact specialized service centers, since it is unrealistic to restore them in a domestic environment (certain equipment and knowledge of radio electronics are required). The only option is to change the power supply.

When replacing the stabilizer, the LED lamp must be completely disconnected from the power supply - wires are cut or terminals are disconnected. Don't rely solely on the switch. Be sure to disconnect the voltage through the distribution board of the apartment.

The power for the stabilizing power supply must be higher than the total value of the connected lamps. After disconnecting the failed element, connect a new one in accordance with the switching diagram. You can find it in the technical documentation for the equipment.The process is as simple as possible, since the wires are color-coded and the contacts are letter-coded.

The degree of protection against dust and moisture for the bathroom must be at least IP45.

To make the procedure as easy as possible, use a soldering station / hairdryer. The soldering iron is more difficult to operate, but it is possible.

Most devices consist of several LEDs connected in series. If even one fails, the whole group or the entire light source stops working. In this case, if there is no suitable LED at hand, the burned-out one can be replaced with a regular jumper. Remember that because of the jumper, the lamp will not work for long, but this way you can buy a little time to buy the desired element. The fewer the total number of LEDs, the faster the jumper lamp will fail.

Modern lighting fixtures use SMD diodes, which can be soldered from tape. When replacing, be sure to buy a part with identical specifications.

If the driver fails, study its design. An electronic board can consist of several SMD diodes, the size of which is much smaller than that of a soldering iron tip. In this case, you need to choose a soldering iron with copper wire on the tip. Solder the burned-out element and select the appropriate one according to characteristics or marking.

When no visible faults are found, the task becomes more difficult. We'll have to solder each part separately and ring it. As soon as a burnt component is found, replace it with a new one and return all the elements to their places. Use tweezers to simplify the work.

Never remove all parts from the board at once. You may not remember their correct location and later confuse them. Proceed as follows: evaporate one diode, check its performance, and then put it back in place. Repeat the same for the rest of the elements.

"Kukuruza" is one of the types of LED lamps, named because of its shape and arrangement of semiconductors.

Serving such products is as easy as shelling pears! The LEDs are located on top and are not protected by anything, therefore, when replacing them, it is not necessary to disassemble the device and climb into its filling.

Call each element separately and replace the failed ones. The defective component can be replaced with a conventional jumper. The presence of such slightly reduces the life of the "corn", but does not affect the stability and reliability of the device. This is only relevant for lamps of this type!

In parallel with lamp repair, you can experiment a little with LEDs. This is done due to the fact that the same LEDs (in type and brightness) with different color temperatures (warm yellow and cold white glow) differ in price by 3-4 times. Despite this, commercially available warm glow LEDs, which are considered the most expensive compared to a conventional incandescent lamp, have a bluish tint.

Cheaper factory lamps come without a rectifier or smoothing capacitor. You can install it yourself at home using a regular soldering iron. There are usually no elements in Chinese products, the manufacturers of which simply connect pairs of LEDs connected in different directions and add a ballast capacitor. The flickering of the lamp increases 2 - 3 times, which negatively affects human health.

The main reason LED bulbs flicker is when a weak capacitor is used or not. The problem is solved quite simply - by installing a more powerful component. If the voltage of the capacitor is 102 V, and the LEDs - 180 V, the value of the first should be increased by 1.5 - 2 times.

Install a similar capacitor, but with a larger capacity. Simply re-solder the old capacitor by replacing it with a new one. Another output is to connect a second capacitor in parallel to increase the total capacitance and power.

Despite the gradual decline in the cost of LED lamps, their price is still high. Not every person can afford to buy consistently high-quality products, but cheap products will not last long.

In case of breakdowns, do not rush to the store. Perhaps the problem is not as bad as it seems, and you will get by with a banal replacement of the power supply unit or a burnt-out LED. Do not forget about observing the rules and operating conditions of the lamps, which will ensure their durability.

With a variety of lighting devices on the counters of the country, LEDs remain out of competition due to their efficiency and durability. However, a high-quality product is not always purchased, because in a store you cannot disassemble the goods for inspection. And in this case, it is not a fact that everyone will determine from what parts it is assembled. Lamps burn out, and it becomes expensive to buy new ones. The solution is to repair LED lamps with your own hands. This work is within the power of even a novice home craftsman, and the details are inexpensive. Today we will figure out how to check the lighting device, in what cases the product is repaired and how to do it.

LED lighting products have become part of our lives

It is known that LEDs cannot work directly from a 220 V network. To do this, they need additional equipment, which, most often, fails. We will talk about him today. Consider the circuit of an LED driver, without which the operation of the lighting device is impossible. Along the way, we will conduct an educational program for those who do not understand anything in electronics.

The 220V LED lamp driver circuit consists of:

• diode bridge;
• resistances;
• resistors.

The diode bridge serves to rectify the current (converting it from alternating to direct current). On the graph, this looks like a cut-off of a half-wave of a sine wave. Resistances limit current, and capacitors store energy by increasing the frequency. Consider the principle of operation on the circuit of a 220 V LED lamp.

Having understood the principle of operation and the driver circuit, the decision on how to fix a 220V LED lamp will no longer seem difficult. If we talk about high-quality lighting devices, then you should not expect trouble from them. They work for the entire prescribed period and do not fade, although there are "diseases" to which they are also susceptible. Let's talk about how to deal with them.

To make it easier to understand the reasons, we summarize all the data in one common table.

Good to know! Repair of LED lamps is impossible to carry out indefinitely. It is much easier to eliminate negative factors affecting durability and not to purchase cheap products. Savings today will cost you tomorrow. As economist Adam Smith said, "I'm not rich enough to buy cheap things."

Before you repair an LED lamp with your own hands, pay attention to some details that require less labor. Checking the cartridge and the voltage in it is the first thing to do.

Important! Repair of LED lamps requires a multimeter - without it, it will not be possible to ring the driver elements. A soldering station is also required.

A soldering station is required for the repair of LED chandeliers and lighting fixtures. After all, overheating of their elements leads to failure. The heating temperature during soldering should be no higher than 2600, while the soldering iron heats up more. But there is a way out. We use a piece of copper core with a cross section of 4 mm, which is wound around the tip of the soldering iron with a tight spiral. The more you lengthen the sting, the lower its temperature. Convenient if the multimeter has a thermometer function. In this case, it can be adjusted more precisely.

But before you repair LED spotlights, chandeliers or lamps, you need to determine the cause of the failure.

One of the problems that a novice home craftsman faces is how to disassemble an LED light bulb. To do this, you need an awl, solvent and a syringe with a needle.The diffuser of the LED lamp is glued to the body with a sealant that must be removed. Passing carefully along the edge of the diffuser with an awl, inject the solvent with a syringe. After 2 ÷ 3 minutes, lightly twisting, the diffuser is removed.

Checking the disassembled LED bulb. You shouldn't do this - it's dangerous.

Some lighting fixtures are made without gluing with a sealant. In this case, it is enough to turn the diffuser and remove it from the housing.

Having disassembled the lighting device, pay attention to the LED elements. Burned is often identified visually: there are burn marks or black dots on it. Then we change the faulty part and check the functionality. We will describe the replacement in detail in the step-by-step instructions.

If the LED elements are in order, go to the driver. To check the performance of its parts, you need to solder them from the printed circuit board. The value of the resistors (resistances) is indicated on the board, and the parameters of the capacitor are indicated on the case. When dialing with a multimeter in the appropriate modes, there should be no deviations. However, often failed capacitors are determined visually - they swell or burst. The solution is to replace it with a suitable one in terms of technical parameters.

The LED can be ringed with a multimeter without unsoldering from the printed circuit board

Replacing capacitors and resistances, unlike LEDs, is often performed with a conventional soldering iron. In this case, you should be careful not to overheat the nearest contacts and elements.

If you have a soldering station or a hair dryer, this job is simple. It is more difficult to work with a soldering iron, but it is also possible.

Good to know! If there are no working LED elements at hand, you can install a jumper instead of the burnt one. Such a lamp will not work for a long time, but it will be possible to win some time. However, such repairs are made only if the number of elements is more than six. Otherwise, the day is the maximum work of the repair product.

Modern lamps run on SMD LED elements that can be soldered out of an LED strip. But it is worth choosing those that are suitable for technical characteristics. If there are none, it is better to change everything.

Chinese driver - these guys love minimalism

Related article:

For the correct choice of LED devices, you need to know not only the general LED characteristics... Information about modern models, electrical circuits of working devices will come in handy. In this article, you will find answers to these and other practical questions.

If the driver consists of smaller SMD components, use a copper wire soldering iron on the tip. A visual inspection revealed a burnt element - we solder it and select the one that matches the marking. No visible damage is more difficult. We'll have to solder all the details and ring them separately. Having found the burnt one, we change it to a workable one and mount the elements in place. It is convenient to use tweezers for this.

Useful advice! Do not remove all elements from the PCB at the same time. They are similar in appearance, you can later confuse the location. It is better to solder the elements one at a time and, after checking, mount them in place.

Repairing an LED tube in the form of a fluorescent lamp is no different from working with a simple

When installing lighting in rooms with high humidity (bathroom or kitchen), stabilizing power supplies are used, which lower the voltage to a safe one (12 or 24 volts). The stabilizer can fail for several reasons. The main ones are excessive load (power consumption of the luminaires) or the wrong choice of the degree of protection of the unit. Such devices are repaired in specialized services. At home, this is unrealistic without the availability of equipment and knowledge in the field of radio electronics. In this case, the power supply unit will have to be replaced.

The power supply for the LEDs looks like this

Very important! All work on replacing the stabilizing LED power supply is carried out with the voltage removed.Do not rely on the switch - it may be incorrectly wired. The voltage is disconnected in the distribution board of the apartment. Remember that touching live parts with your hand is life-threatening.

You need to pay attention to the technical characteristics of the device - the power must exceed the parameters of the lamps that are powered from it. Having disconnected the failed unit, we connect a new one according to the diagram. It can be found in the technical documentation of the device. This is not difficult - all wires are color-coded, and the contacts are letter designation.

Decoding of IP protection degrees for electrical appliances

Plays the role and degree of protection of the device (IP). For the bathroom, the device must be marked at least IP45.

Related article:

In order for the lighting to be stable, and the installed products to serve as long as possible, you should choose the right 12V power supply for LED strip... In this publication, we will consider the types of devices, how to calculate them correctly, how to do it yourself, how to connect, popular models.

If the reason for the flickering of the LED lamp is the failure of the capacitor (it needs to be replaced), then periodic blinking when the light is off is easier to solve. The reason for this "behavior" of the luminaire is the backlight-indicator on the switch key.

The capacitor located in the driver circuit accumulates voltage, and when the limit is reached, it gives out a discharge. The key backlight transmits a small amount of electricity, which does not in any way affect incandescent bulbs or "halogens", but this voltage is enough for the capacitor to start accumulating it. At a certain moment, it gives out a discharge to the LEDs, after which it switches back to accumulation. There are two ways to solve this problem:

1. We take out the key from the switch and turn off the backlight. The method is simple, but indications that add value to the switch are no longer useful.
2. We disassemble the chandelier and change the phase wire with zero places on each cartridge. The method is more complicated, but it retains the functionality of the switch. In the dark, you can see it well, and this is a plus.

Such a switch can cause the LEDs in the device to flash.

Not only LED lamps, but also CFLs are susceptible to flashing. The device of their PRU (starting and regulating device) works on a similar principle, which allows the capacitor to store energy.

Consider an example of a simple LED lamp repair:

In the photo you can see a lot of LED lamps. I got them as a gift. There was an opportunity to study the structure of these lamps, electrical circuits, as well as repair these lamps. The most important thing is to find out the reasons for the failure, since the service life indicated on the box does not always coincide with the service life.

Lamps of the MR-16 type can be disassembled without any effort.

Judging by the label, the lamp has model MR-16-2835-F27. Its body contains 27 SMD LEDs. They emit 350 lumens. This lamp is suitable for connecting to a 220-240 V AC mains. Power consumption is 3.5 W. Such a lamp glows white, the temperature of which is 4100 degrees Kelvin and creates a narrowly directed flux due to the flux angle equal to 120 degrees. The type of base used is "GU5.3", which has 2 pins, the distance between which is 5.3 mm. The body is made of aluminum, the lamp has a removable base, which is fastened with two screws. The glass that protects the lamp from damage is glued to the glue at three points.

To identify the cause of the breakdown, it is necessary to disassemble the lamp housing. This is done effortlessly.

As you can see in the photo, a ribbed surface is visible on the case. It is designed for better heat dissipation. We insert a screwdriver into one of the ribs and try to lift the glass.

Happened. You can see the printed circuit board, it is glued to the case. Prying it off with a screwdriver, it detaches.

Among the first, the lamp was dismantled, inside of which the LED burned out.The printed circuit board, which is made of fiberglass, is burned through.

This lamp is suitable as a "donor", from which the necessary spare parts will be taken to repair other lamps. On the remaining 9 lamps, the LEDs also burned out. Since the driver is intact, it is the LEDs that are the cause of the breakdown.

To reduce the lamp repair time, it is necessary to create its electrical circuit. It's pretty straightforward.

Attention! The circuit is galvanically connected to the mains phase. It is prohibited to use it to power any devices.

How does the circuit work? A voltage of 220 V is supplied to the diode bridge VD1-VD4 through the capacitor C1. Then it is fed to the LEDs HL1-HL27, which are connected in series in the circuit. The number of LEDs can be about 80 pieces. Capacitor C2 (the larger the capacitance, the better) is a rectified voltage ripple smoother. It eliminates the flicker of light with a frequency of 100 Hz. To discharge C1, R1 was set. This is necessary in order to exclude electric shock when replacing the lamp. C2 is protected against R2 breakdown in case of open circuit. R1, R2, as such, do not accept work in the circuit.

C1 - red, C2 - black, diode bridge - body with four legs.

The electrical circuit of the lamps has no protection elements. You will need a 100-200 ohm resistor, and preferably two. One will be installed in the connection circuit, the second will serve as protection against current surges.

Above is a diagram with protective resistors. R3 protects the LEDs and C2 the capacitor, R2 in turn protects the diode bridge. This driver is perfect for lamps with less than 5W wattage. It will easily power a lamp with 80 SMD3528 LEDs. If you need to reduce or increase the current, manipulate the capacitor C1. To eliminate flickering, increase the capacity C2.

The efficiency of such a driver is less than 50%. For example, a MR-16-2835-F27 lamp requires a 6.1 kΩ resistor with a power of 4 W. Then the driver will consume more power than the LEDs. Due to the large release of thermal energy, it will not work to place it in a small lamp housing. In this case, you can separately make a case for this driver.

It should be remembered that the efficiency of the lamp directly depends on the number of LEDs.

After the protective glass has been removed, the LEDs can be inspected. If the slightest black speck is found on the surface of the LED, it is out of order. Inspect the soldering points, inspect the quality of the leads. 4 poorly soldered LEDs were found in one of the lamps

LEDs with black dots have been marked with a cross. On visual inspection, the LEDs may be intact. Therefore, you need to call them with a tester. To check, you need a voltage of a little more than 3 V. A rechargeable battery, battery, power supply will do. A 1 kΩ current-limiting resistor is connected in series behind the power supply.

We touch the LED with the probes. In one direction, the resistance should be small (the LED can glow), in the other - it should be equal to tens of megohms.

During the test, it is necessary to fix the lamp. A bank can come to the rescue.

It is possible to test the LED without special devices if the device driver is intact. Voltage is applied to the lamp base, the LED leads are short-circuited with tweezers or a piece of wire.

If all LEDs are visible, the shorted is faulty. But this method is suitable if 1 LED in the circuit is out of order.

If multiple LEDs are broken in the circuit, the lamp will light up. Only its luminous flux will decrease. Just short-circuit the pads where the LEDs have been soldered.

If during the check it turned out that the LEDs are working properly, then the matter is in the driver or the soldering point.

Cold soldering of the conductor was found in this lamp. Soot from poor soldering settled on the board tracks. To remove the soot, a cloth moistened with alcohol was needed. The wire was dropped, tinned and soldered. This lamp is working.

Of all the lamps, one had a driver failure. The diode bridge has been replaced with 4 "IN4007" diodes, which are rated for 1A current and 1000V reverse voltage.

To replace a faulty LED, it is necessary to solder it without damaging the printed conductors. This can be done with difficulty with an ordinary soldering iron; it is better to put on a soldering iron a tip made of copper wire.

When soldering the LED, observe the polarity. Install the LED in the place of soldering, take a 10-15 W soldering iron and warm up its ends.

If the LED is burnt and the board is charred, this area should be cleaned. Since it is a conductor. If the site is stratified, the LED is mono soldered to the "neighbors". This is done if the tracks lead exactly to them. Just take a piece of wire, roll it up two or three times and solder it.

LED lamps have firmly entered our life, practically replacing the pear-shaped bulbs with an incandescent filament that are familiar to us. The advantages of such a lamp are obvious: it gives a bright light, serves for a long time, and in case of breakdown it must be repaired. Repairing an LED lamp is a relatively simple process, especially if the lamp is made by hand.

The simplest type of homemade lamps is usually based on old fixtures with a standard base and an array of dozens, sometimes hundreds, of round white LEDs. These lamps are the simplest and most easily made at home. In this article we will talk about the repair of LED lamps of our own production and factory models, which is devoted to a whole section on our website.

So what does a standard 220 volt LED bulb consist of? It can be conventionally divided into 2 parts: a power source and a light module. The power supply includes:

• plinth
• bottom holder
• power board
• top holder

The light module consists of:

• radiator
• reflector
• fastening bolt
• multichip module
• plastic flask

Now let's analyze the repair scheme.

If not all purchased models are collapsible and suitable for repair, then a DIY LED lamp can even get a second start in life in the event of a breakdown. If your homemade light bulb burns out, then take your time to throw it away. Let's try to fix it. Repair of LED lamps must be divided into two parts: repair of light-emitting elements and power supply. LEDs are not directly connected to the 220 V network, but receive current through a stabilizer, which is a step-down electronic transformer. With its check, repairs should begin. Such stabilizers make it possible to provide a constant voltage value of 5-20 V at the output, as well as a current not exceeding 0.1 A.

we study the device of the LED lamp before repair

By the way, when determining the cause of a lamp breakdown, I advise you to use the golden rule: if the lamp goes out immediately, the problem is in the burned out LED; if the lamp starts blinking and then goes out, the problem is in the power supply.

LED lamp power supply repair

Such a power supply usually suffers from a burnt out 400 V 1 μF capacitor serving as a ballast resistor. It makes no sense to check its performance with capacity meters, since a defect (leakage) can only appear in the case of a 220 V mains voltage, as a result of which the best option would be to replace it. The diodes located in the rectifier burn out, although rarely. You can find a faulty diode using a tester.

Sometimes half-watt current-limiting low-resistance resistors can fail. In this case, an ohmmeter can help. Colored stripes painted on the resistor housings indicate their resistance.

Finding a burnt out LED

In the event that the power supply is serviceable, then you should start checking the LEDs themselves.To do this, you can use a 9 V battery and test all the LEDs one by one using a 1 kΩ resistor. After detecting a faulty LED, you just need to close its outputs.

Usually, in homemade LED lamps, the elements are connected in a chain, like in a garland, as a result of which, even if one of them is short-circuited, the others will continue to glow, perhaps even a little brighter.

After completing the repair of the lamp, it is necessary to assemble it back into the case, and then screw it into the holder.

Despite the fact that the manufacturer claims a service life of LED lamps for more than 10 years, they often fail much earlier. But do not throw them away, try to repair the LED lamp yourself. Which are the popular models of LED refurbishment lamps.

Repaired fixtures table

As you can see, most bulbs can be repaired. Let's discuss the technology of fixing an LED lamp in more detail. For example, let's take the simplest LED lamp, consisting of a standard base and a certain number of LEDs. The repair begins with checking the transformerless rectifier, the output voltage of which should be in the range of 5 to 20 Volts, and the current should be no more than 0.1 Ampere. Then the diodes are checked, as in the case of a lamp with an E27 base, an example of the repair of which is described in the table above.

Repair scheme

1. Replacing the capacitor. The most common reason for a breakdown is a burned out cheap Chinese capacitor, for example, 1 microfarad 400 V, (sometimes found at 250 V). To check the serviceability of this part, it is necessary to set the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode, choosing there the largest resistance measurement limit, which is usually 2 megohms. Then, with the probes, we touch the antennae of the capacitor (you cannot touch the live parts of the probes and antennae with your hands!). If it is working properly, after a couple of seconds, the screen will display a unit. If the unit is highlighted immediately or the value is less, then the capacitor is broken. The easiest way out of this situation is to replace it with a new capacitor, this is a cheap part costing 4-5 rubles.

replacing the capacitor on the LED lamp

2. Replacing the driver. The second type of LED lamp repair is to replace the driver. Please refer to the table below to know which driver is right for your lamp.

3. Replacement of resistors. Current-limiting low-resistance resistors and diodes, although not often, still break. You can check this breakdown with an ohmmeter or a multimeter in continuity mode. You can also check the resistors by setting the resistance measurement mode on the multimeter with a 2 Megaohm limit. If the resistors are working properly, then the display will show a value similar to the nominal resistance of the resistor indicated on its case. If the deviation from the value is more than 20%, the resistor is defective. Often on cheap Chinese-made resistors, unscrupulous workers of the Celestial Empire do not indicate the value of the nominal resistance on the case. In this case, a unit or infinity value displayed on the multimeter will indicate a malfunction of the resistor. Having determined the breakdown of the resistor, we buy a new part and install it in place of the old one.

4. Replacement of LEDs. One of the main disadvantages of LED lamps is that the LEDs themselves burn out. You should only check the LEDs after you have verified that the power supply is working properly. We talked about the search for burned out LEDs above. To replace the LEDs, you need a soldering iron and minimal skills in working with it. We solder all the old LEDs, turn the board over to the back side and solder the LEDs from the LED strip to the contact tracks.

Some models of LED lamps that can be repaired have already been described above. Let's see how exactly it is worth repairing an LED lamp using examples of specific lamp models.

LL-CORN or corn lamp

The shape of this bulb is designed in such a way that it is very easy to repair. The LEDs are located so that they are easy to dial. This allows you to easily identify the faulty diode. We wrote above how to change or close it.

If the continuity test shows that all diodes are working properly, then the problem is in the driver. To get to it, you need to use a thin screwdriver or knife to open the lamp housing from the side opposite to the base. In the event of a driver breakdown, it is necessary to carefully solder it and replace it, guided by the table above.

The diodes and the driver should be soldered with an ordinary soldering iron using a special copper nozzle, the so-called "tip". Its use will allow you to evaporate the elements without damaging the lamp housing.

If you decide not to short-circuit the LED, but replace it with a working one, when soldering, you need to take into account that it has polarity. Therefore, it must be placed on the board in such a way that the pins line up with the conductors. Before soldering the LED, the surface of the board must be cleaned of charred pieces of plastic that may have remained from a burned-out LED.

This series includes 2 main models:

• LLB E27 6W 128-1
• LLB LR- EW5N-5

Both models are easy to repair. As a rule, their main problem is poor-quality soldering of diodes.

In the first case, in order to disassemble the lamp, it is enough to unscrew its shade. Below it, you will see several LED boards and a lower driver board. To search for a breakdown, you must carefully remove one of the side boards. For this place of side soldering, the boards are heated with a soldering iron. The diode ringing does not play a key role here. If the lamp suddenly stopped shining - better check the connection soldering of the boards, which in these models is a weak point. Re-solder any questionable areas of the fixture again, and then check its functionality. Most likely, the lamp should work.

In the second model - LLB LR-EW5N-5 - instead of a protective cover there is a plastic glass that can be removed by prying it off with a screwdriver. First, as usual, we check all the diodes. If they work, the problem is with the driver. It is very difficult to get to him. It is necessary to unscrew the base and make a cut in the aluminum case in order to push out the board with the driver. In general, repairing this lamp is very difficult. It's easier to buy a new one.

The MR-16 is most commonly used in office spaces, hallways or bathrooms. Lamps of this type are very easy to disassemble. Inside there are 27 LEDs that need to ring in the event of a breakdown. As a rule, a faulty diode will be immediately visible due to the fact that the board around it is charred. If the driver breaks down, it must be replaced.

By the way, my experience shows that original bulbs of well-known manufacturers such as Bosh, Osram, Narva, Navigator and others, as a rule, really fulfill the service life declared by the manufacturer, and in which case they can always be changed under warranty. Most often, Chinese bulbs sold on AliExpress break. Therefore, before chasing dubious savings and even more quality, remember the good old saying: "A miser pays twice" - and think carefully whether you should buy a lamp so that it is almost guaranteed to be repaired after 1-2 months? So do not get fooled by advertising and the Chinese declared "long" service life.

The main reason for flickering LED lamps is a weak capacitor. This problem can be easily eliminated by replacing the capacitor with a more powerful one. If the voltage across the capacitor C1 is 102 V, and the voltage across the LEDs is 180 V, we will try to increase the first value by 1.5-2 times.

For example, let's replace the capacitor C1 with a similar, but larger capacity. We remove the old capacitor from the power supply board and solder the new one. But this is not the only way out of the situation.

You can connect a second capacitor in parallel so that the total capacitance of the device is equal to the sum of the capacitances of the two capacitors. By replacing or adding a new capacitor, you will get rid of the annoying flashing of the lamp on.

During the repair process, you can also experiment with LEDs. The fact is that LEDs of the same type, which have the same brightness, both warm and cold light temperature, differ in price by about 4 times. However, most commercially available warm light LEDs, which are more expensive, emit a bluish tint when compared to incandescent bulbs.

In addition, some factory 220V LED bulbs may not have a rectifier and smoothing capacitor. At home, it can be installed using a soldering iron. Usually it is absent in Chinese-made lamps, since this is the simplest and cheapest way - to connect in series a pair of counter-switched LEDs with the addition of a ballast capacitor, which leads to the lamp blinking at twice the frequency of the network, since the Chinese do not really care about damaging our eyes.