DIY repair automatic transmission mazda surname

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of automatic transmission Mazda surname from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

What is the transmission or gearbox of your car, as well as many other things you will learn on our website

.I have a Mazda familia, 98g. (BHALP) B3 engine. In the usual rhythm of movement, switching occurs with high revs and a rather strong jerk. LAUNCH diagnostics showed that there are no errors in the automatic transmission, but in the motor there is a flow meter. Can it be or is it in mechanics?

DMVR? Mass air flow sensor? It affects the formation of modulating pressure in an automatic transmission. Correct the problem in the engine by the sensor.

! I had a problem with the automatic transmission a couple of days ago. 1997 Mazda Familia car Z5 engine. Symptoms: when driving in the city, i.e. at speeds up to 60 km, everything works fine. When I drove along the highway 100-120 km / h for about 20-30 km, the box began to dull when the speed was reduced, i.e. When driving around the city, something strange happened after that: the reverse speed seemed to turn on not until the end, I press the gas on the car, but somehow accelerating very weakly, the revs increase, and the car barely drives. In D mode, it is about the same, and when switching from 1st to 2nd automatic transmission, it cannot immediately switch, it seems as if the engine is tripled, but this is an automatic transmission. On the 3rd and 4th everything is fine. I threw off the negative terminal, reset the computer, it didn't help. Read errors with LED - no errors. ATF is normal, i.e. there is no burning smell, no bubbles, the level is also normal. When the car has cooled down, everything works as it should again. Yesterday I drove around the city, the automatic transmission was not stupid. Today I have to go to another city again, I think that this problem awaits me again. Tell me, what could it be?

Video (click to play).

1. "the reverse speed was turned on as if not until the end, I put pressure on the gas, but the car drives, but somehow accelerating very weakly, the revs increase, but the car barely drives." - DO NOT DO THIS. The automatic transmission will burn out, the discs with lining will burn out.

2. "In D mode, it is about the same, and when switching from 1st to 2nd automatic transmission it cannot immediately switch," - YOU CAN'T DRIVE AND EVEN TRY. You will break the automatic transmission, the discs will burn;

3. " When I drove along the highway 100-120 km / h for about 20-30 km, the box began to dull "- do not dull, but begin to SKIP THE GEARS.

I think the problem is the torque converter lockup or the overdrive element. The ATF heats up strongly and the pressure drops.

- We ride 100 - 120 km / h 20-30 km;

- We measure the line pressure on D and R;

- It is better to take a ride with a dealer scanner and see at least the ATF temperature;

- Again, on the scanner in motion, see if the GT lockup clutch is activated.

I do not recommend driving a car, you will simply burn the automatic transmission.

! I wrote to you a couple of months ago.

I have a Mazda Familia ZL - VE, 1500 cc, automatic transmission FN 4A EL.

There were jolts when shifting and slipping from 2nd to 3rd gear and other problems. Oil changed with filter. Lew Oil Mazda M-V. Replaced the rear cover, brake band and discs of all gears, the main solenoid, rubber pistons in the first and then the rear drum cover. Adjusted the brake band adjusting bolt. Everything became good except for one thing - a problem appeared:

If you let the box switch to 4th speed in D mode (or it depends on something else, maybe on the speed, but only in D mode), then the next time you accelerate from 1st to 2nd speed, there is a delay (up to 4 -5 seconds), then a blow and the 2nd speed is turned on (during this delay, the car does not accelerate, it goes on the first, regardless of the rpm). With all this (after driving on D on the fourth), it is impossible to turn on the rear one - the car vibrates, the speed drops and the engine stalls.

It's okay if I drive S.

If you had to turn on D, then further normal movement is possible only after turning off and on the engine, sometimes, but rarely helps to simply turn off in neutral.

When it all started, I connected a volmeter many times - no errors.More than a month later, as the hold blinked, on the same evening I counted mistakes:

1345 something with dpkv and dprv

0730 (The gear ratio of the gearbox does not correspond to the nominal value. Inconsistency of the signals from the input shaft speed sensor and the vehicle speed sensor)

after that, the hold did not blink, there were no errors (I reset the computer, since the battery was removed for a long time due to problems with the ignition)

0730 is a common error, often due to the back cover. but I have a new steel one

and also did a staltest. Results:

the main solenoid is new, A, B, C have been swapped, the remaining 2 solenoids from the battery click.

I cannot check the line pressure.

there is a suspicion that he collected something wrong

1. Have the torque converter been repaired?

Judging by the symptoms, the torque converter lock-up piston is jammed or does not come off. Maybe they got it wrong when they assembled the hydraulic control unit and now the blocking after the 4th does not go back. If this is the case, then it is necessary to remove the automatic transmission and return the GT for repair, the blocking pad has obviously already shuffled there, disassemble the hydraulic block and repair it again;

2. “(during this delay, the car does not accelerate, it drives first, regardless of the rpm). With all this (after driving on D on the fourth), it is impossible to turn on the rear - the car vibrates, the speed drops and the engine stalls. " - I think that somewhere they made a mistake during assembly, specifically in the hydraulic control unit.

If you leave this case like this, EVERYTHING WILL BURN, the GT must be repaired.

Message Daos »02 Mar 2009, 17:12

Mazda Familia, BJ5W, 2000, 110 Japanese ponies, white, hatchback, Krasnoyarsk

Message Lex »02 Mar 2009, 17:38

Message Daos »02 Mar 2009, 17:44

Mazda Familia, BJ5W, 2000, 110 Japanese ponies, white, hatchback, Krasnoyarsk

Message MutaboR »02 Mar 2009, 17:49

mazda3; sedan 1.6; manual transmission; champagne

Message Lex »02 Mar 2009, 18:22

Message Vsevolod »02 Mar 2009, 20:31

Daos
do not make problems for yourself. here's my advice!
this is normal, you have an AUTOMATIC, you do not always press the pedal evenly. the box is just trying to guess what you want from it (dulls, that's all).

try the moment when you start to blunt to press the pedal even harder, you will immediately feel both the thrust and power of the 3rd traction gear.

mazda familia BJ5W, dv. ZL-VE

phone: 8-903-986-2829
icq: 476-103-283
e-mail:

Message Vovchikk »02 Mar 2009, 21:30

Message Macho »03 Mar 2009, 09:47

Message Driver March 03, 2009 10:34 am

On the contrary, if suddenly the engine could not maintain the normal 2000-2200 rpm, then the load on it sharply increased and the engine could not “digest” it.
It is similar to engaging a gear one higher than it was previously engaged.
For example, immediately after the second, the fourth turns on, and even with the blocking of the transformer.
Look directly in motion through diagnostics, which gears are switched on alternately during acceleration.

All about Mazda Xedos 6, Xedos 9 (Millenia) as well as 626GE, MX6 and Ford Probe with 2.5L (KL) engines

Jevgenij "12 Feb 2009, 20:06" Message No. 101414

Jevgenij "12 Feb 2009, 22:59" Message No. 101428

There are no more parts in this part of the automatic transmission and we will return to it only at the time of reassembly.
TO BE CONTINUED

Dnieper "13 Feb 2009, 15:24" Message No. 101455

Jevgenij

wow, wow, and he also says that this is not an instruction, but this is a complete collection

, Zhen you earn more than a living, where does so much knowledge in this topic come from?

... Thanks a lot

Peter definitely needs it in the FAQ
Well done Zhen

”Title =” Applause ”/>

Jevgenij "13 Feb 2009, 16:19" Message No. 101462

Slava.K "13 Feb 2009, 16:30" Message No. 101464

commendable, commendable
although I have never driven an automatic machine and in general, apart from the "mixer", I do not know and do not understand
but infa is definitely valid

”Title =” Applause ”/>

alex_KS "13 Feb 2009, 16:31" Message No. 101465

Jevgenij
Super instruction

Respect.

birdhouse "14 Feb 2009, 00:02" Message No. 101484

Thank God I am an apologist for the manual transmission
Zhenya is 10 out of 10. I delve into all the photos and the text, it is very interesting to look at this kitchen from the inside, also with comments and troubleshooting. CLASS. I'm looking forward to the continuation of the series.

”Title =” Applause ”/>
By the way, have you already collected everything? How is the result?

perun "14 Feb 2009, 09:25" Message # 101492

I really want to quickly see what is hidden under the side crankcase.

Jevgenij "14 Feb 2009, 14:52" Message # 101508

Not yet. Somehow it doesn't burn for me, the box is not mine. Everything is fine with mine

... As for the result, he is already known. Correctly selected automatic transmission always gives a 100% successful result.

Jevgenij "14 Feb 2009, 18:28" Message # 101521

What interests you more, a pump or a stove. What's the next thing to post?

birdhouse "14 Feb 2009, 21:01" Message No. 101526

Lay it all out. But the stove is better first. With such interest, I remember, I read 3 comrades Remarque

Dnieper "14 Feb 2009, 21:55" Message No. 101529

Jevgenij
Pump to the studio !!

Jevgenij "14 Feb 2009, 22:54" Message # 101532

In fact yes. It's probably best to continue with the pump. The stove is more complicated and will take more time, a lot of nuances. Tomorrow there will be a pump for you on a tray

Jevgenij "15 Feb 2009, 17:04" Message No. 101581

Jevgenij "16 Feb 2009, 11:31" Message No. 101641

Dnieper "16 Feb 2009, 12:04" Message No. 101653

Jevgenij
Zhen is interested in everything, and how long it took you, well, taking into account the availability of spare parts.

Jevgenij "16 Feb 2009, 12:28" Message No. 101662

If you have all the spare parts, then a complete repair (without stress) takes two days.

birdhouse "16 Feb 2009, 14:09" Message No. 101676

Myakotko "16 Feb 2009, 20:41" Message # 101727

Jevgenij, tell me. I plan to shoot the box. there is a normal winch with a lock.
how easy it is to remove. just a box or a box with an engine?
and what are the nuances of removing / installing the box
By the way, is there no literature on automatic transmission repair? precisely the general theory of regulation.
there is a device and a manual in the mitchel.

Jevgenij "16 Feb 2009, 20:52" Message # 101730

Of course, it is easier to remove the box from the already removed engine, but I would be too lazy to pull out the engine because of the automatic transmission.

perun "22 Feb 2009, 19:54" Message # 102507

And because of the oil pump valve, the car may not go. For me, for example, until you warm up, and you don’t give 5 thousand revolutions, the speed will not turn on. And recently, it has become a problem to get under way, since the speed is turned on at revs, and on a slippery surface there is definitely a slip. Can you see what's hidden behind the side sump faster?

Jevgenij "22 Feb 2009, 22:58" Message # 102520

Everyone is silent, so I'm not spreading it. Well, tomorrow or the day after tomorrow the stove will be laid out.

And after the first one turns on (at high speeds), do all the others work normally?

CRAFT "22 Feb 2009, 23:07" Message No. 102521

perun "25 Feb 2009, 10:00" Message No. 102911

3-4 speed is not present at all. From 1 to 2 it seems to switch normally. 1 speed only when you pedal hard. Yesterday I removed the side crankcase and removed 5 solenoids, one was missing. I disassembled it, there the copper bushing was worn out to a hole, and as a result, the valve stem went crooked and let oil through. Now a question!
1. Could these symptoms be the result of not switching gears.
2. If I remove the plate, will it be difficult to put it back in place (box on the engine).
3. How to choose a solenoid, if there are no others like me in the store (there is a Mitsubishi badge on it).
4. How much is this rubbish worth?

Jevgenij "25 Feb 2009, 10:45" Message # 102914

Measure also the resistance (Ohm). I will expose the necessary parameters today. Check all solenoids, there are seven of them.
1. Of course they could.
2. It will not be difficult to put the stove on, but there is one trick about which I will write today.
3. We have a Mitsuha sign on half of the parts, don't be surprised. Only by its location on the plate can you find out its catalog number. Or show me which one in the photo, I'll write you the number. Also, externally identical solenoids can have different degrees of load. Consequently, the power of the valve is different.
4. The price ranges from $ 50 to $ 80.
You would have filled out a profile, otherwise it is not known where you live - it is difficult to advise something.

Jevgenij "25 Feb 2009, 12:59" Message No. 102931

As before, everything is washed out and blown out. Old rings are replaced with new ones, lubricated with oil and installed in place with new gaskets.

Dnieper "25 Feb 2009, 17:08" Message # 102968

Jevgenij

, in blah, somehow, looking at all this, I understand more and more that not everything is so simple, and in a couple of days I cannot cope with it. But as someone wrote the eyes are afraid and the hands are doing. Zhen you are great. We are waiting for the continuation. (written with horror in my heart)

Chesterfield "25 Feb 2009, 20:41" Message # 103012

Honestly, when I was making capital with my own hands, the clutch department seemed more complicated, the stove is lighter, it's just necessary to really take a picture so as not to forget. But everything is very simple.

Jevgenij "25 Feb 2009, 21:17" Message # 103014

Uh, nope!

... Wait for the ballet to continue! I haven't gotten to balls, valves and pistons yet!

alex_KS "25 Feb 2009, 21:45" Message # 103019

Jevgenij
Offset

”Title =” Applause ”/> Do you professionally repair automatic transmissions?

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Take a newcomer to Drom.ru))).

Took up the repair of the automatic transmission FN4A-EL (4F27E) from a friend on Premasi. I will post the report along the way here:.

Tips and tricks from experts are welcome 🙂

as far as I understand - the man-handles are labor. we do need e. join in! Respect and respect. You grabbed repairs, not even with our masya, but I look at your experience even from other people's cars more than we do. We are very glad to welcome you in our ranks.

As far as I understand, if the symptoms are no 4 gears, then slowly we get sick to L in boxing.

We order a lid and 4 elastic bands (sort of like) and for a start we only change the lid.

Do I understand correctly that the cover can be removed without lowering the engine on the jack? On the chapel (there at the bottom of the link) this is done. And we have?

And since this is the case, can you tell me the numbers of the cover and its oil seals (and the number?)?

Just in case, the body number is CP8W-404953. 2002 year. 1.8 l.

I think to order, since such is the case. At the next oil change in the box, I will ask you to replace it.

Added by: I've found an estimate. What is desirable to change from this? As I understand it, the cover with rubber bands on it, as well as the clutches of 3-4 gears. Indicate point by point. Thanks!

Wait kolupalis on existential.

So, the catalog offers 4 covers, depending on the month-year. For 2002, two covers are offered depending on the month. How to define more precisely? 🙂

With the oil seals on the cover, I realized:
FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs., These are small oil seals;
FN01-19-655 - 2 pcs. - large oil seals.

Karbofos Thanks! Found my cover)))

Question to the topstarter. 2005 car. The mileage is small, apparently, that's why the lid is in order.

And what could cause the wear of the rubber bands of the pistons?

I also read a few links that are already well-known here.

If your box kicks back, and it happened quite recently, open it, look at the lid and change the rings FN01-19-655 (2 pcs). These are the ones that sit on the lid and are larger in diameter. We order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).

If the box kicks forward by 3-4 and it happened quite recently, similarly, but FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs. These are small rings on the lid. Similar to the previous case - we order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).

If we ride for a long time with such malfunctions, you need to remove the packages, look at the clutches, “pistons” (I don’t know how to call them correctly) and the brake band.

Attention, question (again :-).
What kind of lid sealant to use? they don't write about it anywhere.

The automobile concern Mazda, unlike its competitors, does not particularly like to experiment with transmissions. After unsuccessful attempts to curb rotary engines in the 80s and 90s, Mazda decided to make calm and successful cars. Typically, transmissions used on Mazda vehicles are time-tested, reliable designs. In the middle of the 2000s, Mazda nevertheless decided to modernize transmissions due to new requests and competition. But this time it was ingenious reworking and modernization of existing schemes that did not spoil anything and left their transmissions reliable, easy to repair and unpretentious in everyday driving and operation. A car service anywhere in the world can easily cope with the repair of Mazda boxes.

The second generation of the sixth model, the Mazda 6 GH, received the TF80SC automatic transmission. The family of these automatic machines is designed for engines from two to five liters, with a torque of up to 450 Nm. The latest modifications of this automatic transmission are an engineering masterpiece. Mazda engineers managed to fit the machine into the engine compartment with their own hands and ensured very fast and smooth switching. The Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission allows you to go quickly, economically and at the same time it is very reliable and not subject to overheating, like modern brethren and easily competes with preselective gearboxes.

The weak point of the Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission is traditional for six-speed transmissions. The Mazda 6 GH torque converter still uses a friction lining that wears down and clogs the box with its decay products. Locking in this automatic transmission is made traditionally and is not used constantly, as in modern cars. The Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission, like its counterparts, is subject to combustion of clutch packages. Usually starting in second gear or reverse. After the combustion of at least one, all other clutches of the Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission will be saturated with burnt oil and will soon fail.

Valve body mechatronic TF80SC

The valve body needs cleaning every 150,000-200,000 kilometers; this requires a visit to a car service. It will be problematic to dismantle the box with your own hands and flush it. In our winter, rubberized pistons become tanned after a few years and need to be replaced. The Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission is very sensitive to oil, it is better to pour only the original.

Mazda Demio was equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission 4F27E. This "workhorse" is still being produced. Major malfunctions are usually associated with dirty oil. The clutches of the overdrive package and reverse gear are the first to suffer on Mazda Demio. This is a classic Mazda Demio problem associated with the design features of the automatic transmission. This is due to the wear of the seat on the drum of the Mazda Demio automatic transmission and subsequent oil losses. The Mazda Demio computer overloads this node unnecessarily. Consumable tape for Mazda Demio is considered a consumable. The piston of the overdrive package often changes, especially if the box has overheated. The teflon rings of the rear cover and pump can be considered consumables and can be changed along with the oil and filter change. The electrics and the automatic transmission valve body are very reliable and rarely require repair.

Automatic transmission control unit 4f27e

Mazda Premasi was equipped with an automatic transmission of the 4EAT-G series. This is the first Mazda automatic transmission, on which electronic control began to be implemented. A significant share of requests for the repair of this automatic transmission ends with the replacement of the torque converter oil seals and various gaskets. The auto repair shop usually considers such work to be easy. From the clutches on Premasi, the packages of the third and fourth gears usually burn out. From the electronics, the line pressure and torque converter lock-up solenoids are the first to fail. For older cars, it is better to change the entire set of solenoids. When driving for a long time with a low oil level or with a dirty gearbox, bushings and oil seals quickly wear out. This usually manifests itself as increased vibration when driving a car. In the event of their appearance or strengthening, you should not wait for the denouement, but immediately go to the car service.

Mazda MPV was equipped with a G4A-EL gearbox. These automatic transmissions usually run for a long time at the MVP, but they arrive already in poor condition. Usually, the entire set of clutches is immediately changed on the MPV. Various gaskets that give oil leaks are aging, they should also be changed at the earliest opportunity. The gasket and pump seals are the weak point of the MPV. The electrical is very reliable and rarely fails, with the exception of solenoids, of course.

The Mazda Tribute was equipped with a CD4E box. This very simple and reliable four-speed transmission has become very popular. For three-liter engines, this transmission is rather weak, but on less powerful engines it drives for a very long time, it is simply repaired and drives the same amount. The best design solutions from it were implemented in 4F27E. The first thing that develops its resource in this automatic transmission is the solenoid block. It all starts with the abnormal and incomprehensible operation of the automatic transmission, which receives increased or decreased pressure. In second place is usually the speed sensor, over time it begins to "lie" and "confuse" the electronic control unit.

Mazda 3 models were equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission 4F27E, a relative of the CD4E. This is a unique box, it can be repaired without removing it from the car. Repair work can be carried out by any car service where there is a lift. Its problems are similar to the rest of the range of automatic transmissions produced for the automaker Mazda.

4F27E automatic transmission for Mazda 3 models

Mazda Familia was equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission FN4A-El. The same is installed on the Ford Focus.

The clutches are reinforced here compared to Ford. The overdrive and reverse packages are close in resource to all other clutches and are no longer a weak point. But no one is immune from this if there are oil leaks. Aggressive driving results in increased lateral loads on the caliper, resulting in a skewed drum. Its shrinkage ring can jam and the drum will begin to slip, carving out a gap through which oil will ooze.

After the aging of the overheated rubber of the pistons, chips and dirt can enter them, which will also lead to burnout of the clutch packs.

DO NOT SPEND MONEY ON REPAINING!
Now you yourself can remove any scratch from the body of your car in just 5 seconds.

On Mazda cars, the metal of the back cover is softer than on Ford, so sometimes problems arise with it. The cover must be restored.

Teflon O-rings are consumable, they are easily abraded during vehicle operation. This is a constructive feature and nothing can be done about it. However, the engineers have provided for the possibility of replacing the rings without removing the automatic transmission, for which a special thanks to them. The frayed rings will begin to leak oils and the box can be seriously damaged from this.

Mazda Surname with four-speed automatic transmission FN4A-El

It is also worth checking the pump seals and gaskets for leaks. If it comes to replacing them on the pump, it is better to change the bushings too.

The electrical part of this automatic transmission is very reliable, but the valve body gaskets also require periodic replacement.

Some transmissions from Mazda are so popular, widespread in the world and simple that they learn how to repair automatic transmissions from them. Any car service specializing in automatic transmission repair has seen Mazda boxes more than once. If you wish, you can try to learn how to repair automatic transmissions with your own hands. But it is better to leave this business to experienced professionals and stop by a car service.

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Chelyabinsk city

Car: mazda axela 2.0 Sport

I decided to write maAAA A little report on how I fix the automatic transmission malfunction on Mazda Axella 2.0 (well, the same three-ruble note)
primarily! What was the reason for this renovation? with the purchase of a car I have already left for 3 years. I ran 52,000 km (full mileage), the first 2 years there were no problems, only the pleasure of driving a car, but around the beginning of this 2010 I began to notice that vibrations appeared at a speed of 60 to 100 km and knocks on bumps, as well as when braking when brake smoothly stopped releasing pressing the brake pedal also showed some vibrations. And all this was getting stronger every month!
The diagnostics of the walker and the engine showed nothing, everything seems to be normal! I was recommended to change the oil in the automatic transmission, which I did in connection with which, after a very small mileage of 4 t.km, the box can be said to stand up)))) in addition to vibration, there were jerks of jerks of kicking in the ass when starting off, and then at the end there were dips already at acceleration and failures when starting off! Well, I think that's it! it's time to tackle this problem!I drove the car into the garage and began to carefully feel everything out of the pit, pulling everything that twitches, twisting everything that was spinning and sticking out the connectors, tracing the wiring and the integrity of all parts and assemblies
But almost immediately I came across an awesome backlash of the internal grenade from the left drive, it seems to me that it was the cause of these vibrations and knocks! Because the suspension was, ideally, I replaced everything there this summer looking for the cause of the knocks, but she didn’t dare!Unfortunately, I didn't film it by car, but at home, with the automatic transmission removed, it looks like thisBy the way, by the way, by the way, it even dangled more strongly, probably because of a larger lever.Well. I decided! If you change the Differential, then you need to shoot anyway! and troubleshoot all content! the removal began as usual, as many do, from the valve body! In order to facilitate the box well, and assess the degree of kill by oil and friction dust. Let me remind you that I changed the oil only 4 thousand ago, on the dipstick it is a little cloudy without the smell of burning!
Unscrewing the drain plug and letting it drain into the bottle, I was shocked! it is black in color with a lot of obscure particles like friction dust. Well, I think this is what I also got on the clutches, and this despite the fact that, in principle, I always drove generously on a typewriter!I open the lid and see this there:it can be seen that the magnet was cleaned by the dealer when it was replaced, there were no shavings, but the oil, however, was with incomprehensible inclusions)And the consistency of the oil itself was not very similar to the recommended M5. We look at the box, the valve body (the brains of the box))))We turn off all the solenoids beforehand, or after writing down which wires go where and unscrewing all the existing bolts with a 10 key and carefully lower it!Carefully. the main thing is not to drop the main valves and not confuse them and the springs in places! put it all on a clean surfaceLooking further? what do we have here?Nothing interesting! Except for the brake band, but more on that later!We close the lid back, put the valve body in some kind of box and take it home! On this day, I decided not to do anything else with the car, but to deal with the valve body!We bring it home, put it on a prepared table covered with a rag and start disassembling it! For those who do it all for the first time, it is best to take a picture of each step, so as not to confuse what was where and how it stood!We begin to unscrew the bolts, again with a 10 keyBefore disassembling, be sure to take a photo of where which bolts come with what designations, they are A 30 mm B 40 mm 60 the longest without designation!and with the help of cleaning products, I used the following:we begin to pick out all the dirt from there! I had her there just the sea! disassembled boxes with much higher mileage and then the unit was cleaner.we check them with an ohmmeter for the correct resistancesThe same diagnostics can be done without climbing inside, well, if we are already inside, God himself ordered) if everything is OK with the resistances, then with a small voltage of 5-6 V we check how they click, everything is normal!Then we clean all the plates with a carburetor cleaner, I cleaned everything thoroughly pulling out all the valves and solenoids!Some of them wedged a little after cleaning, everything became OK, the inner surface and the surface of the solenoids were ideally (apparently I did it in time) If you start it because of the dirt that got into the block, the valves begin to scratch inside the cage, wedge and jam! usually it is immediately felt by the lack of smoothness during switching and acceleration.if you measure up with this and drive like that, in the end you will find yourself replacing this block and it costs about 30 tr there are, of course, options for lapping with paste, but this helps for a very short time, unless the car is thrown off at the bazaar)After cleaning and a full check and 3 more times rechecking, we begin to collect all this in the reverse order of parsing!IMPORTANT! all twisting operations should only be carried out with a torque wrench!tightening torque of the plates to each other and joining with the box 7.9 - 10.7 N.mIf we neglect this, then as a result of the constriction, the plates can lead and the valve will inevitably start to wedge, and from not too heavy, the bolts will begin to unscrew and let the pressure pass, and this, in turn, causes the rapid death of the machine! For greater reliability, I still use blue loctite)))after collecting all this beautywe put it in some kind of box so that dust and dirt do not fly there.Well, for today, perhaps everything! tomorrow I will continue the report on the removal and troubleshooting of the machine itself!
Hands are tired of writing))))) Post has been editedkroenen: 17 December 2010 - 09:11The site provides information on automatic transmissions
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Registration: 3.7.2015
Town: Tomsk
Auto: Mazda Demio (1996-2001)
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Ask questions, but I think there shouldn't be any. I will supplement the topic. Thank you for your attention.

I would like to share my experience in replacing automatic transmissions with manual transmissions on a Mazda Familia S-Wagon, FS-ZE engine, Sport20, 4WD equipment.

How it all started

A little background of the project. In 2007, I became the proud owner of the S-Wagon Sport 20, 2002 with automatic transmission and all-wheel drive. Frankly, I expected more! By that time, I already had 3 years of experience in operating a similar car but front-wheel drive, with a manual transmission and a ZL engine - a very nimble car. What could you expect from Sport 20? But alas, Sport 20 did not impress me. It even seemed to me that 2.0 is even dumber than 1.5. The roofing felts are to blame for the non-switchable four-wheel drive, the automatic roofing felts, and what is more likely, all taken together. For a long time I have been trying to improve the engine output by tuning. Although someone may find these words too loud.

So first of all I installed the Cold Air Intake System with a K&N zero resistance filter. The effect was palpable. The car has become more responsive to the gas pedal. It should be noted that the manufacturer guarantees a power increase of 4 hp, and undertakes to return the money if this does not happen.

Secondly, a semi-direct-flow muffler can was installed from the RS-Special company. A pleasant "growling sound" was added, but no more. I did not expect anything else in principle, since ideally it is required to change the entire system as a whole, starting with the installation of a one-piece 4-2-1 collector and a track of a larger diameter.

Thirdly, BOSH Sport 4+ iridium candles (with four electrodes) and additional grounding Greddy Grounding System.

I wanted to buy a turbo kit from TSI, and even found a budget option, as in the photo:

But at the last moment he postponed the purchase, because he was not sure that the machine would withstand the increase in power. So I decided, first of all, to implement a project to replace the machine gun with mechanics.

Replacing automatic transmission with manual transmission

So, the first stage of the project is the physical replacement of the automatic transmission with a manual transmission. This required:

Manual transmission;
flywheel with bolts, clutch disc, basket;
right intermediate shaft (in automatic transmission it is slightly longer);
left-hand drive, and to be precise, only the drive shaft (for automatic transmissions it is about 1.5 cm shorter), while grenades can be left with your own

The procedure itself is replaced by an automatic transmission with a manual transmission does not pose any difficulty

First, it is necessary to free up the engine compartment as much as possible.

For what, we remove the cooling radiator, after draining the coolant from it, remove the expansion tank, the storage battery (battery), the platform for the battery, the fuse box, the air filter housing and the corrugation. We remove the fuel filter, the fuel vapor condenser, disconnect the electrical connectors of the automatic transmission and remove the wiring from the retaining brackets

Secondly, we remove the longitudinal ski, having previously dismantled the engine protection and the front airbag of the automatic transmission, undock the propeller shaft, unscrew the bracket for the intermediate shaft of the drive from the engine block, remove the front drives and muffler pants from the exhaust manifold to the catalyst

Now, you can remove the front subframe with the rear cushion, arms, struts and hubs directly in the assembly. Unfortunately, the subframe creates a significant obstacle to removing the automatic transmission.

Thirdly, we dismantle the starter. It should be noted that a characteristic feature of FS-ZE engines is the absence of visible technological holes for unscrewing the automatic transmission torque converter from the flywheel. So, this technological hole is located under the starter, you just need to remove the small plastic plug and through the hole formed, turning the engine crankshaft pulley, unscrew the 4 nuts securing the torque converter.

After that, we tear off the bolts holding the automatic transmission and the internal combustion engine. We do not twist, but only rip off! We unscrew the left automatic transmission pillow, having previously substituted two jacks. One, under the pallet of the automatic transmission, the other under the internal combustion engine. After that, unscrew to the end the bolts holding the automatic transmission with the internal combustion engine and carefully, slightly tilting the internal combustion engine, undock the automatic transmission, lowering it on a jack.

Well, now, it's a matter of technology. We change the flywheel, installing the bolts native to it. Precisely relatives, because they are longer than from a machine gun, because flywheels have different thicknesses. In an automatic transmission, it is two times thinner!

We install the disk, the basket, do not forget to use the simulator of the input shaft of the manual transmission for centering the disk! Further, as is usually written in books on repair: "Carry out the assembly in the reverse order."

Now let's start disassembling the cabin. The peculiarity of these models is that the gears are switched by two cables that leave the passenger compartment passing through the partition of the engine compartment, exactly under the stove body. In this connection, their laying requires the dismantling of the torpedo and the third section of the stove, in which the heater radiator is installed. this procedure will require:

clutch line, clutch master and slave cylinders;
gear shift cables;
manual transmission backstage;
clutch pedal;
brake pedal;
a piece of oil-resistant rubber tube with two clamps, 15-20 cm long and 6-8 mm inner diameter.

Removing a torpedo is simple. We remove the steering wheel, the central panel of the radio, the panel between the saddles, for the sake of convenience, I also removed the chairs, the instrument panel, bordachek, radio tape recorder. We unscrew the steering wheel shaft and carefully lower it to the floor, not forgetting to disconnect the wiring. The wiring must remain on the torpedo, so a few mounting blocks and a couple of chips will be enough

The torpedo is supported by 8 bolts. You will find four of them on the sides. For which it is necessary to carefully knock out the side plugs, and the remaining ones in the center at the bottom. After the torpedo is unscrewed, carefully undock it, checking if all the wiring is disconnected

Then you need to go back under the hood and remove the flanges from the stove radiator. Antifreeze is no longer there, it was drained earlier. We unscrew the heater radiator housing and remove it

Initially, you may get the feeling that it is necessary to unscrew the section with the air conditioner radiator - do not succumb to provocations! If, of course, frion is not dear to anyone, then please. But it is enough to simply unscrew it and pull it out slightly without removing the hoses. After that, the stove body can be removed without problems. And below it we find the place where the shift cables cross the partition between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment.We dismantle the old cable from the automatic transmission and insert it from the manual transmission. After that, we install the curtain and mount the cables. Be sure to check if you have connected them correctly. If the gears are shifting as expected, then everything is fine.

Then, knock out the plastic plug from the side of the clutch pedal. There you don't even need to cut and drill anything. Everything is provided. There is a hatch for the clutch master cylinder and a bracket for the clutch pedal. In general, we install the clutch pedal, change the brake pedal and assemble the interior!

Now we return to the engine compartment again. We install the clutch line in the holders, connect it with the master and slave cylinders, bleed the clutch, after removing the plug on the barrel of the master brake cylinder and installing a hose instead. Those. the clutch slave cylinder does not have its own fluid barrel. It connects to the barrel of the master cylinder with a simple oil-resistant rubber tube.

Did it work? Well, it's almost done!

Well, the last stage - Electrician! Perhaps one of the most important!

ICE computer for manual transmission (in general, the car started up and drove with an automatic transmission ECU, but I did not check the presence of error codes, the ECUs themselves have different markings and I decided that it would be correct to change);
the dashboard from a car with a manual transmission (if the automatic transmission modes are displayed on the panel, if they are not displayed, then you can not change, but everything fit the connectors without alterations).

It should be noted that I did one rash act! I took and changed the main wiring braid, putting it from the manual transmission. This is not at all necessary, or rather, absolutely not! As for the location of the wires on the connectors of the computer, there is no difference, but, as it turned out later, there is a significant difference in the connector with wiring in the cabin. The wires are not just of different colors, but they are even located in the wrong places. So I advise you to leave your wiring, but do not insert the slot of the machine into the computer!

After my car did not want to start, I turned to an electrician for help. The verdict was as follows: "We put our own braid with automatic transmission." After that, you will not believe, the car started up even with a computer from an automatic transmission. I just had to connect two thick black wires in the main automatic transmission chip - this was a starter breaker, which exists in case you want to start the car, with the selector in position D, R, etc. Then, from the total mass of automatic wiring, the missing 4 wires were found. Two for the reverse frog, and two for the speed sensor. And the rest were insulated!

After that, a radiator was installed, the hoses of the stove were connected, coolant was filled, an intake system, a fuel vapor condenser, a fuel filter, a fuse box, a battery platform and the battery itself were installed. The job was done!

It all took 4 days of time and the lists of everything you need given earlier!

What can I say about my driving sensations. Guys……. Super. Let the car and lost in comfort, but:

Engine sound has changed. Became more bass, deeper and more thoroughbred.
The car, from a place in first gear, fires up to 70 km / h. If you start with a cutoff, then it just jumps out!
The dynamics of the car has changed dramatically for the better. The car has become faster, more dynamic and responsive.
City consumption, as I expected, dropped to about 10.5 l / 100 km. in the urban cycle, against 13y. on the machine.

In general, now I have plans to install a reinforced ceramic clutch Exedy Track Clutch Kit Stage 2. And maybe I'll even return to the thought of a turbo kit. Although with him there is still a lot of incomprehensible things.

Video (click to play).

Summing up, I would like to wish everyone success in their endeavors! There will be questions on the topic, you are welcome, I will be glad to help!

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