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Complete bulkhead and overhaul of automatic transmission
Complete bulkhead and overhaul of automatic transmission
what is better automatic transmission bulkhead or used?
head overhaul Miller KJ
Full painting1 , 2 ferreti »Apr 16, 2008, 01:48 AM 48 Replies 6464 Views Last post Slava.K
Bulkhead light!
xedox 6 1992 2.0 complete set.
WHERE TO BEGIN?? COMPLETE RESTORATION !!
Bulkhead ABS Hydraulic Block
bulkhead steering rack
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Take a newcomer to Drom.ru))).
Took up the repair of the automatic transmission FN4A-EL (4F27E) from a friend on Premasi. I will post the report along the way here:.
Tips and tricks from experts are welcome 🙂
as far as I understand - the man-handles are labor. we do need e. join in! Respect and respect. You grabbed repairs, not even with our masya, but I look at your experience even from other people's cars more than we do. We are very glad to welcome you in our ranks.
As far as I understand, if the symptoms are no 4 gears, then slowly we get sick to L in boxing.
We order a lid and 4 elastic bands (sort of like) and for a start we only change the lid.
Do I understand correctly that the cover can be removed without lowering the engine on the jack? On the chapel (there at the bottom of the link) this is done. And we have?
And since this is the case, can you tell me the numbers of the cover and its oil seals (and the number?)?
Just in case, the body number is CP8W-404953. 2002 year. 1.8 l.
I think to order, since such is the case. At the next oil change in the box, I will ask you to replace it.
Added by: I've found an estimate. What is desirable to change from this? As I understand it, the cover with rubber bands on it, as well as the clutches of 3-4 gears. Indicate point by point. Thanks!
Wait kolupalis on existential.
So, the catalog offers 4 covers, depending on the month-year. For 2002, two covers are offered depending on the month. How to define more precisely? 🙂
With the oil seals on the cover, I realized:
Karbofos Thanks! Found my cover)))
Question to the topstarter. 2005 car. The mileage is small, apparently, that's why the lid is in order.
And what could cause the wear of the rubber bands of the pistons?
I also read a few links that are already well-known here.
If your box kicks back, and it happened quite recently , open it, look at the lid and change the rings FN01-19-655 (2 pcs). These are the ones that sit on the lid and are larger in diameter. We order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).
If the box kicks forward by 3-4 and it happened quite recently , similarly, but FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs. These are small rings on the lid. Similar to the previous case - we order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).
If we ride for a long time with such malfunctions , you need to remove the packages, look at the clutches, “pistons” (I don’t know how to call them correctly) and the brake band.
Attention, question (again :-).
The automobile concern Mazda, unlike its competitors, does not particularly like to experiment with transmissions. After unsuccessful attempts to curb rotary engines in the 80s and 90s, Mazda decided to make calm and successful cars. Typically, transmissions used on Mazda vehicles are time-tested, reliable designs. In the middle of the 2000s, Mazda nevertheless decided to modernize transmissions due to new requests and competition. But this time it was ingenious reworking and modernization of existing schemes that did not spoil anything and left their transmissions reliable, easy to repair and unpretentious in everyday driving and operation. A car service anywhere in the world can easily cope with the repair of Mazda boxes.
The second generation of the sixth model, the Mazda 6 GH, received the TF80SC automatic transmission. The family of these automatic machines is designed for engines from two to five liters, with a torque of up to 450 Nm. The latest modifications of this automatic transmission are an engineering masterpiece. Mazda engineers managed to fit the machine into the engine compartment with their own hands and ensured very fast and smooth switching. The Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission allows you to go fast, economically and at the same time it is very reliable and not subject to overheating, like modern counterparts and easily competes with preselective gearboxes.
The weak point of the Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission is traditional for six-speed transmissions. The Mazda 6 GH torque converter still uses a friction lining that wears down and clogs the box with its decay products. Locking in this automatic transmission is made traditionally and is not used constantly, as in modern cars. The Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission, like its counterparts, is subject to combustion of clutch packages. Usually starting in second gear or reverse. After the combustion of at least one, all other clutches of the Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission will be saturated with burnt oil and will soon fail.
Valve body mechatronic TF80SC
The valve body needs cleaning every 150,000-200,000 kilometers; this requires a visit to a car service. It will be problematic to dismantle the box with your own hands and flush it. In our winter, rubberized pistons become tanned after a few years and need to be replaced. The Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission is very sensitive to oil, it is better to pour only the original.
Mazda Demio was equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission 4F27E. This "workhorse" is still being produced. Major malfunctions are usually associated with dirty oil. The clutches of the overdrive package and reverse gear are the first to suffer on Mazda Demio. This is a classic Mazda Demio problem associated with the design features of the automatic transmission. This is due to the wear of the seat on the drum of the Mazda Demio automatic transmission and subsequent oil losses. The Mazda Demio computer overloads this node unnecessarily. Consumable tape for Mazda Demio is considered a consumable. The piston of the overdrive package often changes, especially if the box has overheated. The teflon rings of the rear cover and pump can be considered consumables and can be changed along with the oil and filter change. The electrics and the automatic transmission valve body are very reliable and rarely require repair.
Automatic transmission control unit 4f27e
Mazda Premasi was equipped with an automatic transmission of the 4EAT-G series. This is the first Mazda automatic transmission, on which electronic control began to be implemented. A significant share of requests for the repair of this automatic transmission ends with the replacement of the torque converter oil seals and various gaskets. The auto repair shop usually considers such work to be easy. From the clutches on Premasi, the packages of the third and fourth gears usually burn out. From the electronics, the line pressure and torque converter lock-up solenoids are the first to fail. For older cars, it is better to change the entire set of solenoids. When driving for a long time with a low oil level or with a dirty gearbox, bushings and oil seals quickly wear out. This usually manifests itself as increased vibration when driving a car. In the event of their appearance or strengthening, you should not wait for the denouement, but immediately go to the car service.
Mazda MPV was equipped with a G4A-EL gearbox.These automatic transmissions usually run for a long time at the MVP, but they arrive already in poor condition. Usually, the entire set of clutches is immediately changed on the MPV. Various gaskets that give oil leaks are aging, they should also be changed at the earliest opportunity. The gasket and pump seals are the weak point of the MPV. The electrical is very reliable and rarely fails, with the exception of solenoids, of course.
The Mazda Tribute was equipped with a CD4E box. This very simple and reliable four-speed transmission has become very popular. For three-liter engines, this transmission is rather weak, but on less powerful engines it drives for a very long time, it is simply repaired and drives the same amount. The best design solutions from it were implemented in 4F27E. The first thing that develops its resource in this automatic transmission is the solenoid block. It all starts with the abnormal and incomprehensible operation of the automatic transmission, which receives increased or decreased pressure. In second place is usually the speed sensor, over time it begins to "lie" and "confuse" the electronic control unit.
VIDEO Mazda 3 models were equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission 4F27E, a relative of the CD4E. This is a unique box, it can be repaired without removing it from the car. Repair work can be carried out by any car service where there is a lift. Its problems are similar to the rest of the range of automatic transmissions produced for the automaker Mazda.
4F27E automatic transmission for Mazda 3 models
Mazda Familia was equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission FN4A-El. The same is installed on the Ford Focus.
The clutches are reinforced here compared to Ford. The overdrive and reverse packages are close in resource to all other clutches and are no longer a weak point. But no one is immune from this if there are oil leaks. Aggressive driving results in increased lateral loads on the caliper, resulting in a skewed drum. Its shrinkage ring can jam and the drum will begin to slip, carving out a gap through which oil will ooze.
After aging of the overheated rubber of the pistons, chips and dirt can enter them, which will also lead to burnout of the clutch packs.
DO NOT SPEND MONEY ON REPAINING!
On Mazda cars, the metal of the back cover is softer than on Ford, so sometimes problems arise with it. The cover must be restored.
Teflon O-rings are consumable, they are easily abraded during vehicle operation. This is a constructive feature and nothing can be done about it. However, the engineers have provided for the possibility of replacing the rings without removing the automatic transmission, for which a special thanks to them. The frayed rings will begin to leak oils and the box can be seriously damaged from this.
Mazda Surname with four-speed automatic transmission FN4A-El
It is also worth checking the pump seals and gaskets for leaks. If it comes to replacing them on the pump, it is better to change the bushings too.
The electrical part of this automatic transmission is very reliable, but the valve body gaskets also require periodic replacement.
Some transmissions from Mazda are so popular, widespread in the world and simple that they learn how to repair automatic transmissions from them. Any car service specializing in automatic transmission repair has seen Mazda boxes more than once. If you wish, you can try to learn how to repair automatic transmissions with your own hands. But it is better to leave this business to experienced professionals and stop by a car service.
VIDEO
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Chelyabinsk city
Car: mazda axela 2.0 Sport
I decided to write maAAA A little report on how I fix the automatic transmission malfunction on Mazda Axella 2.0 (well, the same three-ruble note)
I drove the car into the garage and began to carefully feel everything from the pit, pulling everything that twitches, twisting everything that was spinning and sticking out the connectors, tracing the wiring and the integrity of all parts and assemblies
Unfortunately, I didn't film it by car, but at home, with the automatic transmission removed, it looks like this
By the way, by the way, by the way, it even dangled more strongly, probably because of a larger lever.
Well. I decided! If you change the Differential, then you need to shoot anyway! and troubleshoot all content! the removal began as usual, as many do, from the valve body! In order to facilitate the box well, and assess the degree of kill by oil and friction dust. Let me remind you that I changed the oil only 4 thousand ago, on the dipstick it is a little cloudy without the smell of burning!
I open the lid and see this there:
it can be seen that the magnet was cleaned by the dealer when it was replaced, there were no shavings, but the oil, however, was with incomprehensible inclusions)
And the consistency of the oil itself was not very similar to the recommended M5.
We look at the box, the valve body (the brains of the box))))
We turn off all the solenoids after taking a photo or writing down which wires go and unscrew all the existing bolts with a 10 key and carefully lower it!
Carefully. the main thing is not to drop the main valves and not confuse them and the springs in places! put it all on a clean surface
Looking further? what do we have here?
Nothing interesting! Except for the brake band, but more on that later!
We close the lid back, put the valve body in some kind of box and take it home!
On this day, I decided not to do anything else with the car, but to deal with the valve body!
We bring it home, put it on a prepared table covered with a rag and start disassembling it! For those who do it all for the first time, it is best to take a picture of each step, so as not to confuse what was where and how it stood!
We begin to unscrew the bolts, again with a 10 key
Before disassembling, be sure to take a photo of where which bolts come with what designations, they are A 30 mm B 40 mm 60 the longest without designation!
and with the help of cleaning products, I used the following:
we begin to pick out all the dirt from there! I had her there just the sea! disassembled boxes with much higher mileage and then the block was cleaner.
we check them with an ohmmeter for the correct resistances
The same diagnostics can be done without climbing inside, well, if we are already inside, God himself ordered) if everything is OK with the resistances, then with a small voltage of 5-6 V we check how they click, everything is normal!
Then we clean all the plates with a carburetor cleaner, I cleaned everything thoroughly by pulling out all the valves and solenoids!
Some of them wedged a little after cleaning, everything became OK, the inner surface and the surface of the solenoids were ideally (apparently I did it in time) If you start it because of the dirt that got into the block, the valves begin to scratch inside the cage, wedge and jam! usually it is immediately felt by the lack of smoothness during switching and acceleration.if you measure up with this and drive like that, in the end you will find yourself replacing this block and it costs about 30 tr there are, of course, options for lapping with paste, but this helps for a very short time, unless the car is thrown off at the bazaar)
After cleaning and a full check and 3 more rechecking, we begin to collect all this in the reverse order of parsing!
IMPORTANT! all twisting operations should only be carried out with a torque wrench!
tightening torque of the plates to each other and joining with the box 7.9 - 10.7 N.m
If we neglect this, then as a result of the constriction, the plates can lead and the valve will inevitably start to wedge, and from not too heavy, the bolts will begin to unscrew and let the pressure pass, and this, in turn, causes the rapid death of the machine! For greater reliability, I still use blue loctite)))
after collecting all this beauty
we put it in some kind of box so that dust and dirt do not fly there.
Well, for today, perhaps everything! tomorrow I will continue the report on the removal and troubleshooting of the machine itself!
Post has been editedkroenen: 17 December 2010 - 09:11
The site provides information on automatic transmissions
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This section is intended only for reports on independently (or not independently) repairs carried out, etc., as well as for their discussion and additions.
Group: Users Tomsk Mazda Demio (1996-2001)
Ask questions, but I think there shouldn't be any. I will supplement the topic. Thank you for your attention.
I would like to share my experience in replacing automatic transmissions with manual transmissions on a Mazda Familia S-Wagon, FS-ZE engine, Sport20, 4WD equipment.
How it all started
A little background of the project. In 2007 I became the proud owner of the S-Wagon Sport 20, 2002 with automatic transmission and all-wheel drive. Frankly, I expected more! By that time, I already had 3 years of experience in operating a similar car but front-wheel drive, with a manual transmission and a ZL engine - a very nimble car. What could you expect from Sport 20? But alas, Sport 20 did not impress me. It even seemed to me that 2.0 is even dumber than 1.5. The roofing felts are to blame for the non-switchable four-wheel drive, the automatic roofing felts, and what is more likely, all taken together. For a long time I have been trying to improve the engine output by tuning. Although someone may find these words too loud.
So, first of all, I installed a Cold Air Intake System with a K&N zero resistance filter. The effect was palpable. The car has become more responsive to the gas pedal. It should be noted that the manufacturer guarantees a power increase of 4 hp, and undertakes to return the money if this does not happen.
Secondly, a semi-direct-flow muffler can was installed from the RS-Special company. A pleasant "growling sound" was added, but no more. I did not expect anything else in principle, since ideally it is required to change the entire system as a whole, starting with the installation of a one-piece 4-2-1 collector and a track of a larger diameter.
Thirdly, BOSH Sport 4+ iridium candles (with four electrodes) and additional grounding Greddy Grounding System.
I wanted to buy a turbo kit from TSI, and even found a budget option, as in the photo:
But at the last moment he postponed the purchase, because he was not sure that the machine would withstand the increase in power. So I decided, first of all, to implement a project to replace the machine gun with mechanics.
Replacing automatic transmission with manual transmission
So, the first stage of the project is the physical replacement of the automatic transmission with a manual transmission. This required:
Manual transmission;
flywheel with bolts, clutch disc, basket;
right intermediate shaft (in automatic transmission it is slightly longer);
left-hand drive, and to be precise, only the drive shaft (in automatic transmissions it is about 1.5 cm shorter), while grenades can be left with your own
The procedure itself is replaced by an automatic transmission with a manual transmission does not pose any difficulty
First, it is necessary to free up the engine compartment as much as possible.
For what, we remove the cooling radiator, after draining the coolant from it, remove the expansion tank, the storage battery (battery), the platform for the battery, the fuse box, the air filter housing and the corrugation. We remove the fuel filter, the fuel vapor condenser, disconnect the electrical connectors of the automatic transmission and remove the wiring from the retaining brackets
Secondly, we remove the longitudinal ski, having previously dismantled the engine protection and the front airbag of the automatic transmission, undock the propeller shaft, unscrew the bracket for the intermediate shaft of the drive from the engine block, remove the front drives and muffler pants from the exhaust manifold to the catalyst
Now, you can remove the front subframe with the rear cushion, arms, struts and hubs directly in the assembly. Unfortunately, the subframe creates a significant obstacle to removing the automatic transmission.
Thirdly, we dismantle the starter. It should be noted that a characteristic feature of FS-ZE engines is the absence of visible technological holes for unscrewing the automatic transmission torque converter from the flywheel. So, this technological hole is located under the starter, you just need to remove the small plastic plug and through the hole formed, turning the engine crankshaft pulley, unscrew the 4 nuts securing the torque converter.
After that, we tear off the bolts holding the automatic transmission and the internal combustion engine. We do not twist, but only rip off! We unscrew the left automatic transmission pillow, having previously substituted two jacks. One, under the pallet of the automatic transmission, the other under the internal combustion engine. After that, we unscrew to the end the bolts holding the automatic transmission with the internal combustion engine and carefully, slightly tilting the internal combustion engine, undock the automatic transmission, lowering it on a jack.
Well, now, it's a matter of technology. We change the flywheel, installing the bolts native to it. Precisely relatives, because they are longer than from a machine gun, because flywheels have different thicknesses. In an automatic transmission, it is two times thinner!
We install the disk, the basket, do not forget to use the simulator of the input shaft of the manual transmission for centering the disk! Further, as is usually written in books on repair: "Carry out the assembly in the reverse order."
Now let's start disassembling the cabin. The peculiarity of these models is that the gears are switched by two cables that leave the passenger compartment passing through the partition of the engine compartment, exactly under the stove body. In this connection, their laying requires the dismantling of the torpedo and the third section of the stove, in which the heater radiator is installed. this procedure will require:
clutch line, clutch master and slave cylinders;
gear shift cables;
manual transmission backstage;
clutch pedal;
brake pedal;
a piece of oil-resistant rubber tube with two clamps, 15-20 cm long and 6-8 mm inner diameter.
Removing a torpedo is simple. We remove the steering wheel, the central panel of the radio, the panel between the saddles, for the sake of convenience, I also removed the chairs, the instrument panel, bordachek, radio tape recorder. We unscrew the steering wheel shaft and carefully lower it to the floor, not forgetting to disconnect the wiring. The wiring must remain on the torpedo, so a few mounting blocks and a couple of chips will be enough
The torpedo is supported by 8 bolts. You will find four of them on the sides. For which it is necessary to carefully knock out the side plugs, and the remaining ones in the center at the bottom. After the torpedo is unscrewed, carefully undock it, checking if all the wiring is disconnected
Then you need to go back under the hood and remove the flanges from the stove radiator. Antifreeze is no longer there, it was drained earlier. We unscrew the heater radiator housing and remove it
Initially, you may get the feeling that it is necessary to unscrew the section with the air conditioner radiator - do not succumb to provocations! If, of course, frion is not dear to anyone, then please. But it is enough just to unscrew it and pull it out slightly without removing the hoses. After that, the stove body can be removed without problems. And below it we find the place where the gearshift cables cross the partition between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment. We dismantle the old cable from the automatic transmission and insert there from the manual transmission.After that, we install the curtain and mount the cables. Be sure to check if you have connected them correctly. If the gears are shifting as expected, then everything is fine.
Then, knock out the plastic plug from the side of the clutch pedal. There you don't even need to cut and drill anything. Everything is provided. There is a hatch for the clutch master cylinder and a bracket for the clutch pedal. In general, we install the clutch pedal, change the brake pedal and assemble the interior!
Now we return to the engine compartment again. We install the clutch line in the holders, connect it with the master and slave cylinders, bleed the clutch, after removing the plug on the barrel of the master brake cylinder and installing a hose instead. Those. the clutch slave cylinder does not have its own fluid barrel. It connects to the barrel of the master cylinder with a simple oil-resistant rubber tube.
Did it work? Well, it's almost done!
Well, the last stage - Electrician! Perhaps one of the most important!
ICE computer for manual transmission (in general, the car started up and drove with an automatic transmission ECU, but I did not check the presence of error codes, the ECUs themselves have different markings and I decided that it would be correct to change);
the dashboard from a car with a manual transmission (if the automatic transmission modes are displayed on your panel, if they are not displayed, then you can not change, but everything fit the connectors without alterations).
It should be noted that I did one rash act! I took and changed the main wiring braid, putting it from the manual transmission. This is not at all necessary, or rather, absolutely not!
After my car did not want to start, I turned to an electrician for help. The verdict was as follows: "We put our own braid with automatic transmission." After that, you will not believe, the car started up even with a computer from an automatic transmission. I just had to connect two thick black wires in the main automatic transmission chip - it was a starter breaker, which exists in case you want to start the car, with the selector in position D, R, etc. Then, from the total mass of automatic wiring, the missing 4 wires were found. Two for the reverse frog, and two for the speed sensor. And the rest were insulated!
After that, a radiator was installed, the hoses of the stove were connected, coolant was poured, an intake system, a fuel vapor condenser, a fuel filter, a fuse box, a battery platform and the battery itself were installed. The job was done!
It all took 4 days of time and the lists of everything you need given earlier!
What can I say about my driving sensations. Guys……. Super. Let the car and lost in comfort, but:
Engine sound has changed. Became more bass, deeper and more thoroughbred.
The car, from a place in first gear, fires up to 70 km / h. If you start with a cutoff, then it just jumps out!
The dynamics of the car has changed dramatically for the better. The car has become faster, more dynamic and responsive.
City consumption, as I expected, dropped to about 10.5 l / 100 km. in the urban cycle, against 13y. on the machine.
In general, now I have plans to install a reinforced ceramic clutch Exedy Track Clutch Kit Stage 2. And maybe I'll even return to the thought of a turbo kit. Although with him there is still a lot of incomprehensible things.
Video (click to play).
Summing up, I would like to wish everyone success in their endeavors! There will be questions on the topic, you are welcome, I will be glad to help!
